Basic Sewing Portfolio Name
Back stitching Whip stitch Starting in the corner of a sample begin stitching diagonally. 3-4 stitches Hold up the back stitching lever and backstitch to the beginning. Release the lever and stitch to the other corner-diagonally. Backstitch for 3-4 stitches then release the lever and stitch to the corner. Repeat to make an X Thread a needle with an arms length of thread then tie knot in the end. Fold sample square in half. On the open edge come up from the backside and pull thread tight. (knot should stop the thread) Move down the open edge 1/4 inch and come up from the backside again. Repeat over and over until you reach the bottom. Tie a knot and cut thread.
Blind stitch/ladder Stitch Top Stitching Starting on the inside of the crease push your threaded needle up and through one of the folded seams, pull the thread completely through. The knot on thread will now be inside of the crease. Next, directly across from the point at which your thread emerges, push the needle down and then back up through the opposite seam crease to create a stitch that is between 1/8-1/4 long. (should be INSIDE the crease) Repeat last step until you reach the end. Make sure to pull thread tight each time. Tie knot and cut thread. Fold top edge of sample down 1 inch. Fold same edge down 1 inch again. Press with iron. From the top side of the fabric stitch 1/4 away from the fold line.
Seam allowances/pivoting 1/4, 3/8, ½, 5/8, ¾ inch Sew on Interfacing Using a 6 in sample square follow the steps indicated on the seam allowance guide sheet. Locate the piece of interfacing that is smooth on both sides. Place on sample square in the center. Begin stitching 1/4 inside the interfacing. Stitch to the other side but STOP 1/4 in away from edge of interfacing. PIVOT then stitch to next corner making sure to STOP 1/4 in away again. Repeat until you have a square sewn.
Serged Open Seam Finish Notching Using the serger serge each side of the seam allowance separately. Press seam open with iron. Draw a half circle on the sample in pencil. Stitch on the line. Trim the outer edge of the circle to a 1/4 in seam allowance. Using shears make notches all along the curve. -Should be cutting little triangles out of fabric. DO NOT cut through your stitches!
Iron On Interfacing Reinforced stitching START 3 2 1 4 Locate the piece of interfacing that is smooth on one side and bumpy on the other side. Place bumpy side down on the sample square in the center. Press with iron for 5 seconds. Check to make sure it is attached. -Iron again if not. With one sample square fold and iron 3 sides 1/2 inch towards the back. On the 4th side fold down 1 inch. (this is the top) Miter the bottom two corners (Think about the folded paper we did as a class.) Place pocket onto another sample square. Starting 1/2 inch down on the side of the pocket stitch up towards the top of the pocket at a 45* angle. Put the needle down and pivot towards the edge of pocket. Stitch to the side. Put the needle down again and pivot so you can sew down to the bottom edge. Repeat on the other side of pocket. Stitch across the bottom of the pocket as well.
Clipping Serged Closed Seam Finish Draw a half circle on the sample in pencil. Stitch on the line. Trim the inner edge of the circle to a 1/4 in seam allowance. Using shears make clips all along the curve 1/4 in apart. DO NOT cut through your stitches! Turn sample right side out and press with the iron. Using the serger serge both sides of the seam allowance together. Press seam to one side with iron.
Clean Finish Grading On one layer of the seam allowance fold under 1/8 in. to the wrong side. Stitch. Repeat on the other layer of the seam allowance folding to the wrong side 1/8 inch. Stich. Press the seam to one side using the iron. Trim one layer of the seam allowance to 1/4 inch. Leaving the other layer the 5/8 inch.
Pinked Zig-Zag Seam Finish Press the seam to one side using the iron. Pink the seam allowance Press the seam to one side using the iron. Adjust stitch width to 3 and stitch length to 2.5 Zig-zag close to the edge of the seam allowance.
Basting Stitched Adjust stitch length to 5. Starting in the corner of a sample stitch diagonally. Repeat in other corner to make an X Press the seam to one side using the iron.