Digital Matrix User s Guide Dear Legacy2Digital Customers: Our hope is that you fully enjoy using your modified manual focus Nikon or third party lens on your DSLR camera and that our conversion meets or exceeds expectations both functionally and aesthetically. Digital Matrix CPU conversions lenses function very similarly to factory Nikon lenses with CPUs, however, depending on the lens series and camera body there may be some important differences. There are also some difference relating to zoom lenses and some of Nikon s specialty lenses. This User Guide provides information and recommendations for use based on lens type, lens / camera body combination, and camera settings. General Operation With Standard CPU You must use the Command Dial with your converted lens and Standard CPU. Set the lens F-stop ring to its smallest setting (F-16, F-22, F-32, etc.) and leave it in this position during operation. When you move the Command Dial in the direction furthest towards opening the aperture, the maximum aperture of your lens will be displayed in the camera viewfinder and on the LCD. Depending on the exposure mode you decide to use with your lens, F-stop can be adjusted at-will using the Command Dial or determined and set by the camera. You can use viewfinder focus confirmation to select precise focus along with visual confirmation (see below for discussion of camera body focus mode settings). You are now ready to use your lens with Standard CPU. EXIF data should contain lens focal length, F-stop, and image-specific exposure data. With Pro CPU You have the option of using either your camera s Command Dial or the aperture ring on your lens to set F-stop. The Pro CPU features function only on Nikon D7xxx or higher bodies (or older bodies such as Nikon D200, D300, and Fuji S5). On consumer bodies, D3xxx, D5xxx (and older bodies such as D70, D80, etc.) the Pro CPU functions as a G lens similar to Standard CPU, above.
To enable F-stop setting via the aperture ring on a D7xxx or higher body, you must go into camera settings (F9 on most cameras) and switch aperture setting from Command Dial to Aperture Ring. Pre-AIS lenses (AI, and all converted pre-ai lenses) will have the best exposure consistency across the aperture range when equipped with Pro CPU and used on a body that enables F-stop setting via the aperture ring. Exposure Ai-S and Pre-Ai, Ai d, and Factory Ai lenses AI-s These lenses, produced from roughly 1981 to present, require no exposure compensation and may be used in any exposure mode (M, A, S, P) or metering mode (Spot, Center-weighted, or Matrix), without any compensation. Exposure should be as accurate and linear on your camera as with any AF, AF-S, or other auto-focus Nikon lens. Pre-Ai-S lenses (non-ai / Ai d / factory Ai) Nikon lenses produced from 1959 to 1976 (non-ai) and 1977 through 1981 (Ai) may require a degree of exposure compensation in order to achieve accurate exposure at all F-stops. Some F-stops should provide accurate exposure, as-is, without requiring exposure compensation. The first step working with your converted pre-ai-s lens is to check the variation of your lens at each F-stop. Most photographers use their lenses within a fairly narrow F-stops range of. Most lenses have optimum optical performance around 2-4 stops from wide open, and photographers tend to set F-stop within this fairly narrow range. F-stop variation is usually within 0.5 to 1.0 F-stop. A variation check is easily accomplished using your DSLR and the histogram. Easy Methods for Consistent Exposure Using Pre-Ai, Ai d, and Factory Ai Lenses Use Aperture priority with +/- exposure compensation, once you have determined the exposure variation. Manual mode and manual adjustment (simply adjust exposure on the manual exposure scale in the view finder by the appropriate amount +/-). If you constrain the F-stop range to within a few stops (best to choose sweet spot of lens performance), you may find that exposure variation is easily correctable during post-processing, providing you shoot in RAW format. By determining exposure variation when you start working with your lens and a little practice using the compensation methods described above, you will find the pre-ai-s lenses quite convenient and pleasurable to use. While you may also use Pre-Ai- and Ai lenses in Shutter and Program exposure modes with our conversions, keep in mind that the camera will select the best aperture for the lighting conditions. The camera s F-stop choice may result in different exposure outcomes for equivalent exposure value (EV). For instance, F-4 @ 1/125 may give a different exposure from the equivalent F-5.6 at 1/60, even though EV is the same. However, with current Nikon DSLR
dynamic range capability and RAW mode capture, you may find the variation minor or that it can be easily corrected in post-processing. Zoom Lens Focal Length Settings Our CPU allows us to program a single focal length parameter for the lens. By default, we choose an approximate midpoint in the zoom range. When we receive a zoom lens for conversion we ask customers whether our default setting is satisfactory, and if not we can program in a custom setting. If for any reason you would like to change the setting once you have received your lens, let us know and we will provide you the programming steps necessary to alter the focal length parameter. Variable Aperture Zoom Lenses and Exposure Compensating Nikkors Variable aperture zooms Our CPU does not register changes to the effective maximum aperture of a variable aperture zoom lens. Why not? One reason for this is variable aperture zoom lens aperture change is really a change to effective maximum aperture of the lens, not a change to the physical size of the maximum opening of the lens diaphragm. Effective aperture (the amount of light coming through the lens) is a result of light loss or gain due to mechanical changes in the position of the lens optics as a function of zooming / focal length change. Our default programming for variable aperture zoom Nikkor is to set maximum aperture to a midpoint, e.g., an F-3.5-4.5 lens will be set with a maximum aperture of F-4. Practically speaking, most variable aperture lenses have a 0.5 to 1.0 stop change. By programming a maximum aperture in the midpoint of the range, you will have a maximum exposure change of 0.5 stops. If you wish, you can also use +/- exposure compensation, or simply shoot RAW format and adjust for exposure variation in post-processing. Compensating Nikkors A few Nikon lenses, such as some versions of the 55/3.5 Micro make adjustments to maximum aperture based on focus distance. Our CPU does NOT compensate for these changes, so you will need to make tests to determine what changes your lens makes and then dial in appropriate +/- compensation for proper exposure. Focus Indication Your converted lenses will indicate precise focus using the focus indicator in the camera s viewfinder. We program the CPU of converted lenses to indicate focus with the widest range of Nikon camera bodies. Our CPU allows us to program the lens to indicate focus with your camera s focus mode selection set either to A (autofocus) or M (manual focus). Lower end Nikons do not have this switch and require the lens be programmed to indicate focus in any of the focus modes. Prosumer and pro level bodies allow the user to select M with the focus mode selection switch. This locks out the built-in AF motor in the camera body. On some cameras with built-in focus motors, you may need to program the lens to operate with the focus indication activated using M rather than A. Otherwise, the camera may think it has an autofocus lens mounted and activate the autofocus motor. Changing Focus Indication Mode If for some reason, your converted lens does NOT indicate focus in the viewfinder OR on your prosumer or pro camera the converted lens
activates the AF motor, you will need to change the program parameter for focus indication. This is very simple to do: 1. Enter Program Mode: Set your camera s shutter speed to 1 second. Take a shot. Then, set it to 5 or seconds, and take another shot. Finally, set it back to 1 second, and take a third shot. You re in programming mode when your top LCD screen (rear on lower end cameras) indicates F-2.8. Turning you camera off and on exits programming mode. 2. Your LCD will start to count off increasingly F-stop settings. Once the counter reaches F90, it will restart. So, if you miss the number you need for programming this parameter, it will come around again. Or, if you prefer you can simply turn the camera on / off and reenter programming mode, as described above. 3. Change Focus Indication Parameter: the critical number is 5.6 for this parameter. When this F-stop appears on your LCD, take a shot. 4. You can 'toggle' between A and M focus confirmation parameters using this programming method. So, to go back to step 1, and just release the shutter at F- 5.6 and you ve changed from A to M or M back to A. 5. Turn your camera off and then on. You're done. Focus Accuracy Our lens conversion includes programming for precise indication of lens focus using your camera s focus sensors. All of our fine-tuning is done using a professional Nikon body. Camera body focus-compensation is set a neutral position. The camera s mirror position and focusing system is regularly checked and calibrated. We also use a precision matte focusing screen. Just as with autofocus lenses, there are sometimes discrepancies in precise focus with given lens / body combinations. If you camera body has focus adjustment fine tuning, you may wish to use that method to fine-tune focus. Our CPU allows you to fine-tune focus indication by adding or subtracting steps. There are 17 possible steps. Essentially, you can micro-adjust the precise point of focus (the point at which the indicator light comes on in your camera) very simply using a series of programming steps. For ease of manual focusing, we recommend a replacement focusing screen with visual focusing aid such as a central split-image finder and / or microprism. These are available from an excellent company called Katz Eye (www.katzeyeoptics.com). These focusing screens will allow you to confirm focus both by wire, using the focus indicator, and equally importantly by eye. Focus fine-tuning To fine tune focusing, first pick a contrasty subject that has some kind of vertical line at about 6-8 (3-3.5 meters) away. Place the central AF sensor exactly where you would like focus to be. Adjust your lens until the focus indicator lights. Take a shot. Magnify the image and check critical focus. If focus is less than perfect, you may wish to finetune the indicator light set point. Please follow these programming steps:
1. Set your camera s shutter speed to 1 second. Take shot. Then, set it to 5 or 6 seconds, and take another shot. Finally, set it back to 1 second, and take a third shot. You re in programming mode when your top LCD screen (rear on lower end cameras) indicates F-2.8. Turning you camera off and on exits programming mode. 2. Your LCD will start to count off increasingly F-stop settings. The critical numbers are F10 and F20. If you overshoot F-20, the counter will cycle back through. 3. Fine-tuning is accomplished by releasing the shutter of your camera when either F-10 or F20 appears. Note: once you release your shutter at one of these F-stops, the numbers will alternate back and forth. This allows you to check focus and then alter the setting in either direction without having to reenter programming mode. 4. It may be difficult to determine whether focus is ahead or behind of the subject, esp. if your camera does not have a visual focusing aid (described above). However, if you are able to make this determination, then F10 will move the focus point back and F20 will move it forward. 5. Releasing the shutter once moves the focusing indication forward or backward by one step. You may move focus forward or backward by more than one step at a time by releasing the shutter multiple times for either F-10 or F-20, but note that these may alternate more quickly than you expect, so you may need to wait a moment for the proper F-stop to appear before you can add an additional step in that direction. 6. Once you have what you believe is a proper adjustment, then take shot and recheck focus. You can continuing fine-tuning focus until you are satisfied with the results. 7. Usually, focus is corrected by a process of trial and error. Manual Focus Best-Practices If you are not accustomed to working with manual focus lenses or have mostly worked with autofocus lenses, you will discover the manual focus can be initially more difficult than you expect. Over time, however, we are confident you will come to prefer it for much of your photography unless you are consistently photographing fast-moving action subjects, such as sports. Manual focus is something of a lost art among users of autofocus cameras and lenses. It is important to keep in mind that through most of the history of photography, photographers learned to use manual focus lenses effectively, even for action photography. Once you do gain a sense of comfort working with manual focus lenses, we believe you will be surprised by the pleasure that working with these lenses adds to your photography. Probably one of the most frustrating areas for those new to manual focus, or out practice with it, is tracking moving subjects. While autofocus is superior for attaining rapid focus of moving subjects, you can do quite well with a manual focus lens by practicing.
We highly recommend that you spend time simply learning to keep a moving object in focus and getting acclimated to the process of moving the focus forward or backward, trying to avoid overshooting the point of precise focus. With relatively little practice, you will watch your skills improve dramatically. Focus Trapping Our Pro CPU allows you to switch between either focus trapping or aperture ring F- stop setting. Focus trapping is a very convenient way to ensure properly focused images when either the subject or the photographer is not perfectly still, and is particularly useful with long telephoto and macro lenses. Many Nikon cameras have the ability to trap focus with a lens that enables this function. This functionality involves using the camera s autofocus system working in conjunction with manual focus to release the shutter only when focus is confirmed. With focus trapping enabled, you can hold down the shutter button and the shutter will not fire until the AF system determines focus. At that point, the shutter will release. On the camera side, you must set your camera to focus priority release. Please consult your user s guide for details. To set toggle focus trapping on/off, follow this procedure (takes less than 3 min): 1. Mount your Pro CPU equipped lens. For D7xxx and higher bodies, go to camera menu/f9 and set Command Dial Customization to Aperture Ring. 2. For D3xxx / D5xxx bodies, set lens to min aperture to avoid FEE warning and to engage EE Servo (to right of lens mount). 3. Set the camera to manual exposure mode (M) 4. Set the shutter speed to 1 sec and take a shot. 5. Set the shutter speed to 5 secs and take a shot. 6. Set the shutter speed to 1 sec and take a shot. 7. Then watch as your LCD cycles through a series of F numbers, 2.8, 4.5 8. At F 5.6 take another shot. 9. You ve now enabled or disabled focus tracking. If necessary, repeat the above to be enable/disable (as you wish) 10. For D7xxx and higher bodies, set AF focus priority to ensure the CPU and camera are talking. 11. All bodies: set your lens to min aperture (e.g., F16, 22, etc.) to avoid FEE warning. Reminders Non-Ai lenses should NEVER be mounted on cameras that have an aperture tracking ring OR built-in AF motor (the black ring with the little tab that indexes with the lens aperture ring). These include, Nikon D2, D3, D200/D300, Fuji S5,
D70-90, and D7000. Only use pre-ai lenses on D40, D60, D3000,3100, 5000, and bodies without aperture tracking ring or built-in AF motor. Ai d, factory Ai, and Ai-S lenses may be mounted on any Nikon body without potential damage to the lens aperture tracking ring. Operate F-stop via Command Dial only. Do NOT enable Aperture Ring control mode on pro level cameras, as this will make it impossible to set F-stop on converted lenses. Check your camera s focus mode and if focus confirmation is not occurring either change the focus mode selection from A to M or M to A or program your lens accordingly. Keep in Touch with Us We hope you enjoy photographing with your converted lens and would love to hear from you. We invite feedback, comments, and questions, and welcome communications from our customers. If you would like to write an account of your experience with your converted Nikkor lenses, tell us about your photography, or send some of your favorite shots, we would be delighted to post these on our website. Happy shooting! Joshua Daniels & John Boosinger