Clothing Construction I Samples Packet Name Objectives: 1. To identify how to use and care for the sewing machine and tools. (#1 & #2) 2. Demonstrate how to use a variety of stitches and presser feet. (#1 & #2) 3. Demonstrate knowledge of pivoting and seam allowances. (#1 & #2) 4. Demonstrate how to thread a serger and use it properly. (#3) 5. Demonstrate how to make a button hole, cut it, and sew on a button using a hand needle and thread. (#6) 6. To identify four different methods of seam finishes. (#4) 7. To demonstrate how to machine hem and hand-stitch a hem. (#5) 8. To demonstrate how to layout pattern pieces (#7)
#1 Decorative Machine Stitches -Get a 6 X6 square of fabric from your teacher. Do NOT serge at this point. -Make sure your stitch length is at 2 ½ to start. 1. Sew a STRAIGHT stitch down the right side of your square. BACKSTITCH at both ends. 2. Parallel to the first stitch, sew a ZIGZAG stitch from the top to the bottom of your square. BACKSTITCH at both ends. (Adjust your stitch width to 5) 3. Again, parallel to the last stitch, sew a BASTING stitch from the top to the bottom of your square. BACKSTITCH at both ends. (To baste, change your STITCH LENGTH to 5 and adjust your stitch width back to 0. Be sure to change your stitch length back to 2 1/2 before moving on to step 4. ) 4. Sew a DECORATIVE stitch of your choice from the top to the bottom of your square, parallel to your previous stitches. BACKSTITCH at both ends. (Follow the directions on your machine!) 5. Repeat step 4 three more times, moving about another 1/2 over to the left for each new stitch. 6. Staple your sample to the following page. You should have 7 stitches total.
#1 Decorative Machine Stitches Sample
#2 Seam Allowances and Pivoting -Get a 6 X6 square of fabric from your teacher. Do NOT serge at this point. -Make sure your stitch length is at 2 1/2. 1/4" Seam Allowance: 1. Using the OUTSIDE edge of your presser foot, or the 1/4 seam guideline on your stitch plate, begin sewing a 1/4 seam allowance down one side of your square. (Remember to backstitch at the beginning.) STOP when you are about 1/4" from the end. 2. With the needle DOWN in your fabric, lift your presser foot and PIVOT your square to a new, un-sewn edge. LOWER your presser foot and sew forward at a 1/4" seam allowance. (Remember to use the OUTSIDE of your presser foot as a guide.) DO NOT backstitch here. 3. REPEAT steps 1-2 until you have sewn all the way around the square. PIVOT at the corners and BACKSTICH at the end. 1/2 Seam Allowance: 4. Using the 1/2 seam guideline on your stitch plate, sew a 1/2 seam allowance all the way around your square, repeating steps 1-2 above. 5. Remember to BACKSTITCH at the beginning and end and to PIVOT at the corners. 5/8 Seam Allowance: 6. Using the 5/8 seam guideline on your stitch plate, sew a 5/8 seam allowance all the way around your square, repeating steps 1-2 above. 7. Remember to BACKSTITCH at the beginning and end and to PIVOT at the corners. 1 Seam Allowance: 8. Using the 1 seam guideline on your stitch plate, sew a 1 seam allowance all the way around your square, repeating steps 1-2 above. 9. Remember to BACKSTITCH at the beginning and end and to PIVOT at the corners. You should have 4 stitched squares total. Serged Edge 1/4 Seam 1/2 Seam 5/8 Seam 1 Seam
#2 Seam Allowances and Pivoting Sample
#3 Shape Serging -With paper scissors, cut out the: SQUARE, CIRCLE and COMBINATION shapes on the following 3 pages. -Then, cut one of each of those shapes out of fabric provided by your teacher. 1. Serge around the SQUARE sample. Try not to cut off any of the fabric as you serge. 2. Serge around the CIRCLE sample. Try not to cut off any of the fabric as you serge. 3. Serge around the COMBINATION sample. Try not to cut off any of the fabric as you serge. 4. Staple each sample to the following page. Then go back and serge around sample 1 & 2.
#3 Shape Serging Samples
-Cut out 8-(2 X 6 ) rectangles of fabric. -DO NOT serge around any of the rectangles. #4 Seam Finishes Serged: 1. Sew 2-( 2 X 6 ) rectangles of fabric together at a 5/8 seam allowance down a LONG edge. Backstitch at both ends. 2. Serge down the same seam allowance. Make sure to sew the seam allowances together. Zigzaged: 1. Sew 2-(2 X 6 ) rectangle of fabric together at a 5/8 seam allowance down a LONG edge. Backstitch at both ends. 2. Turn your sewing machine to a zigzag stitch. Zigzag down the seam allowance. Use the left edge of your presser foot as a guideline on your straight stitch. Backstitch at both ends. Trim away any excess fabric to the right of the zigzag stitches. Remember to reset your stitch selector to a straight stitch. Graded: 1. Sew 2-(2 X 6 ) rectangle of fabric together at a 5/8 seam allowance down a LONG edge. Backstitch at both ends. 2. Trim only ONE seam allowance close to the stitching, but not through it. You should be about 1/8 to 1/4 away from the stitching line. *Grading is done to decrease bulk so that the seam lies flat. Clean Finished: 1. Sew 2-(2 X 6 ) rectangle of fabric together at a 5/8 seam allowance down a LONG edge. Backstitch at both ends. 2. Fold under and press both edges of the seam allowances. 3. Sew down the seam allowances at 1/8 from the folded edge. ONLY SEW THE SEAM ALLOWANCES! DO NOT sew through the rectangles. Backstitch at both ends. Serged Zigzaged Graded Clean Finished
#4 Seam Finishes Samples
#5 Hand and Machine Sewn Hem -Serge around a 6 X 6 square of fabric. Do not cut off any fabric as you serge. Hand Sewn Hem: 1. Fold ONE edge of your square up 1/2" and press. 2. Fold the SAME edge again 1" and press. Your serged edge should be folded to the INSIDE. 3. Thread a needle and knot the end. Stick your needle UNDERNEATH the fold of the hem on the very right hand side and pull your thread all the way through so that it HIDES your knot. 4. Take a very small stitch ABOVE the fold and in the fabric. Pull your thread all the way through. 5. Take a small stitch through the FOLD of the hem and pull your thread all the way through. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you reach the end of the hem on the left hand side. Knot the thread around a sewn stitch and thread your needle about 1 inch down the fold. CUT your thread. Machine Sewn Hem: 1. On the OPPOSITE side of your serged square, fold one edge up 1/2" and press. 2. Fold the SAME edge again 1" and press. Your serged edge should be folded to the inside. 3. Make sure the stitch length on your machine is set at 2 1/2. 4. Sew a straight stitch at 1/8 along the TOP folded edge, (closest to the middle of your square). Remember to BACKSTITCH at the beginning and the end. 5. Clip all threads and staple your sample to the following page.
#5 Hand and Machine Sewn Hem Sample
#6 Buttons and Buttonholes -Cut out 2-(6 X 6 ) squares of fabric. Cut out 1-(5 X 5 ) square of fusible interfacing. -Carefully iron the interfacing to one piece of your fabric. Make sure the fusible side is DOWN on the fabric when you iron! -Layer your other square of fabric on top of your square with interfacing. (Make sure that your interfacing is BETWEEN the two squares of fabric) -Serge around both 6 X 6 squares of fabric. Do not cut off any fabric as you serge. -Choose 2 different sized buttons. 1. Change your sewing machine presser foot to a #3. 2. Adjust your stitch length to just below 0. You want your stitches to be very small. 3. Switch the buttonhole position to STEP 1. 4. On one edge of your square, measure 3 buttonholes, one of each to fit your three buttons. Place one buttonhole at 1 1/2, one buttonhole at 3 and one buttonhole at 4 1/2. 5. Remember, to measure buttonholes to fit AROUND your buttons: Determine the length of the buttonhole by first determining the thickness of the button. Use the following formula: (And see the example below.) Diameter + Depth = Length of buttonhole 6. After determining the length of the buttonholes, MARK them well. 7. Follow the machine instructions (listed below) on how to stitch each of your buttonholes. Remember to make a new buttonhole to reset the stitch knob to Stitch Position 1. 8. After stitching your buttonholes, carefully CUT them open with your shears. Turn Knob to 1 Turn Knob to 2 Machine sews the Machine sews a first bead forwards. reverse straight stitch. Turn Knob to 3 Machine sews the bar tack. Turn Knob to 4 Turn Knob to 5 Machine sews the Machine sews 2nd bead forwards. the bar tack. 9. Fold your square sample in half and PRESS with the iron. Make sure all of your buttonholes are along the same edge. 10. DOUBLE thread a hand needle and put a knot in the end. 11. Sew the buttons to the INSIDE fold of your sample. Make sure that your buttons line up with the correct buttonholes. You will be buttoning your buttonholes around your buttons. 12. Be sure to sew a SHANK on your button using the toothpick method: 13. Staple your sample to the following page. Turn Knob to 6 Machine sews securing stitches. 1. 2. 3.
#6 Buttons and Buttonholes Sample
#7 Pattern Layout -With paper scissors, cut out the PATTERN PIECES on the following page. -Get a piece of colored paper and fold it in half HAMBURGER WAY. With the folded edge along the top, CUT OFF 1/2 from the RIGHT SIDE. 1. Write your initials somewhere on each of your pattern pieces. 2. Place the paper pattern pieces on the colored paper as if it were fabric. Look for symbols like place on fold, grainline, etc. in order to correctly place them. 3. Make sure to measure your grainlines from the selvage to properly align your pattern pieces. 4. If you have doubts about whether or not it is correct, check of your sample with the teacher BEFORE you glue them down. Then, glue each pattern piece to the folded paper. 5. Glue your sample to the space below. #7 Pattern Layout Sample
CUT THIS OUT WITH PAPER SCISSORS!!! Square Serging Sample Pattern Cut 1
CUT THIS OUT WITH PAPER SCISSORS!!! Circle Serging Sample Pattern Cut 1
CUT THIS OUT WITH PAPER SCISSORS!!! Combination Serging Sample Pattern Cut 1