India Nov 2016 tiger tour Participants: Carol Alexander, Richard and Tessa Anning, Fran Boreham, Mary Byrne, Stephanie Hayman, Lindsey Meyer, Ron and Maddy Norman, Ann Rigby, Gary and Jane Roots and Paula Sheehy Sandwich Bird Tours leader: John van der Dol Local guide: Ratan Singh Monday October 31 Eight of us met at my house in Worth from where we caught the bus which took us to Heathrow where we met the rest of the group. Eventually our evening flight left just half an hour late and arrived in Delhi after about 7.5 hours. It has been an uneventful flight. We sailed through immigration by Indian standards, collected our luggage and after changing some currency we exited the airport to be met by a representative from Asian Adventures and were driven to our transit hotel, the Star Grand Villa for the night. We had a light lunch and spent the afternoon exploring the Humayun Tomb which is a Unesco World Heritage site and in design a fore runner to the far more flamboyant Taj Mahal. We had intended to visit some other sites but most were closed for the Diwali festivities. We returned to the hotel and some of the girls took a Tuk Tuk ride to some bar while the rest of the group freshened up and had a rest before dinner. Ann arrived from her travels to Nepal and the group was now complete. 1
Tuesday November 1- Thursday November 3 After an early breakfast we set off to catch the 07.35 train to Ranthambhore which duly arrived at about 13.00. From here we were picked up in a canter and taken to Hotel Ranthambhore Koti which is a very comfortable accommodation. We checked in, had lunch and went out on our first safari. We had barely been in the park twenty minutes when we came across a bunch of vehicles and it was clear a tiger was in the vicinity. In fact it was sitting in a roadside stream and although we could see it from a distance we needed to get closer in order to get some clear photos. Our driver and guide somehow jumped the queue but we could still not see the little beastie. After a few minutes it decided to leave its watery home and climbed out on to the road from where on in we had the best view other than it spent most of its time walking away from but great views were obtained as it scented trees and bushes along the road. We watched it for about half an hour and lots of nice pictures were taken. It was a great experience but unfortunately it sort of spoilt the group s expectations who then thought that this was going to happen on every safari. This turned out not to be the case and in fact for the next four rides no more tigers were seen. However other great wildlife including the Indian Gazelle, Spotted Deer, Samba, Wild Boar, Black-tailed or Ruddy Mongoose were noted. Some lovely birds too were added to the list including a couple of Brown Fish Owls which were duly photographed. Spotted Owlets were lovely to see too. Friday November 4 It is always sad to leave a tiger reserve but guests appreciate variety so after a morning visit to the Ranthambhore fort which turned out to be really interesting we had to leave. How many people it must have taken to build this place. We had a nice lunch after which we set off to Bharatpur which was really only a stop off to Agra. Arriving at our accommodation we were stunned to realise we were actually staying in a palace, or at least a replica of the King's "summer house" which he has turned into a hotel. It was luxurious to say the least but even here it was looking tired round the edges despite it 2
only being nine years old. However the rooms were huge and the dining hall was what one would expect from a Royal family, beautifully decorated with paintings of ancestors past adorning the walls. The food was delicious and a puppet show quite amusing. A great place to stay if only for one night. Saturday November 5 In the morning, after an early breakfast we set of to Keoladeo National Park which is world famous for its birds. We hired some rickshaws and set off to admire the nesting Painted Storks just a few yards from the road. A number of nice birds such a Greater Spotted Eagle, Black Bittern, Indian Scops Owl and many more were seen and photographed. Unfortunately we only had a couple of hours so we returned to "our palace", had an exquisite lunch and set off on the road again, this time to Agra and the "Monument of Love" also known as the Taj Mahal. I have never visited this place on a Saturday before. It was packed with visitors, tens of thousands, mostly locals. We spent about one and a half hours here before visiting a marble factory. The salesman tried to talk me into buying a 1000 decorated elephant and despite coming down to 590 I kept my hands firmly in my pockets. It is however very interesting to see them make this stuff and it is all very beautiful and clever but most would look very out of place in our homes. We had a late lunch in a local restaurant but the food was not really up to scratch compared with what we have been eating in the hotels. However we had to take it easy as we were about to board the overnight train to Katni which is the closest station to Bandhavgarh. This we duly did about 1600 and with help of a bunch of porters we were soon settled in our beds. A bit of shuffling around and most settled down to an early night. Not quite the luxurious surroundings we were getting used to but everybody really enjoyed the experience apart from poor Jane who was feeling rather less than clever. 3
Alexandrine Parakeet Sunday November 6, 7, 8 Arriving more than 30 minutes late in Katni we soon found our taxis waiting to take us on the 2.5 hours ride to Bandhavgarh and Monsoon Forest which was to be our home for the next three nights. Deepak, the manager, and a welcome party were waiting at the gate as we arrived. They must have a sixth sense for every time we return from a safari they are there to welcome us back, either that or a surreptitious phone call. Not sure which. We arrived in time for a late breakfast followed almost immediately by lunch before setting off for our first of five safaris. We had four jeeps, all of which sped off in different directions which is dangerous in terms of sightings. And so it proved to be. Fran and I had an amazing sighting of a tiger which actually charged our vehicle which was a bit scary. As we reversed we hit the only rock in the forest causing the jeep to come to an abrupt standstill with the tiger still coming just a few yards away. The guide's arm waving in the air accompanied by a load shout stopped the cat in its tracks. Clearly a mock charge, but one never knows that until afterwards. Great photos were possible so that makes my extra laundry bill well worth it. Unfortunately the rest of the group did not see a tiger but were happy with all the other wildlife on display such as Gaur, Golden-backed Jackals and lots of deer. For the next few drives there was a brief sighting of a tiger by one of the jeeps and all had good views of a Sloth Bear which is not an easy one to get. A cobra was seen, which in the many dozens of drives I have done I have never seen. Lots of nice birds were noted over the three days such as Crested Serpent and Crested Hawk Eagles, some Long- billed Vultures, lots of Kingfishers and Indian Rollers, three species of Drongo, Wooly- necked and Lesser Adjutant Storks, more Owls and Woodpeckers, and many more. 4
Monsoon Forest is a lovely place to stay with very comfortable accommodation, delicious food and great service by extremely friendly, helpful and attentive staff. Indian Scops Owl Wednesday November 9 After waking up to the news that Donald Trump had been elected to the Presidency of the US and the 500 and 1000 rupee notes have been made illegal tender conversation this morning for once about things other than tigers. We had a relatively late and leisurely breakfast before settling our bills and saying our goodbyes to the staff of Monsoon Forest. Our same taxis arrived to take us on our four hour drive to Jabalpur airport for our late afternoon flight back to Delhi. Packed lunch on the way in the forest and all went smoothly arriving back in Delhi during the late rush hour. Again we spent the night in the Grand Star Villa, caught up with emails and the world news on the telly before settling down for the night. 5
Common Kingfisher Thursday November 10 It was sad to say goodbye to Lindsey who decided that she was not well enough to do another week. I think she found it a little full on and hard going. She will be staying in the luxury of the Taj Mahal hotel tonight before flying home on Friday morning. Early breakfast and on the road again, this time to the Himalayas for a couple of days. It took hours to get out of Delhi which seems to be spreading by the day. We made a stop at the Ganges and watched the locals bathing, selling, begging and we were able to photograph some of the old boys with big beards. It is something I had done last year with great success and it was good to try it again, this time surreptitiously with a long lens. We continued, had a comfort break in our usual restaurant where at first they refused to take the now banned notes, but after a little persuasion common sense prevailed and tea and coffee was served. We had a delicious lunch in Kaladhungi, a tiny shack of a restaurant owned by Asian Adventures before finally arriving at Jungle Lore Birding Lodge at Pangot. A few birds were seen en route, namely a superb pair of Sarus Cranes, Lineated Barbet, Grey Treepies, Red-billed Magpie, Asian House Martins and Fran found an Oriental Turtle Dove and a Goral high up on the mountain tops. A brief but rather fuzzy view of the Himalaya was had but hopefully we will have clearer views tomorrow. 6
Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Friday November 11 An early start with tea and biscuits (aka cheese and biscuits) followed by a drive up to Snow Peak View in search of pheasants and views of the Himalaya. We had not gone far when we saw a male Koklass Pheasant sitting on the crash barrier in glorious early morning sunshine. Unfortunately the golden light rather distorted the true colours of the bird which made them look rather odd on the photos. However not an easy bird to find, so we can consider ourselves a little lucky. We could however not find the cheer pheasant. Some great views of the mountains allowed some stunning photo opportunities. We returned for breakfast and spent the morning looking at birds in and around the garden. White-throated, Chestnut Crowned and Streaked Laughingthrushes were present as usual and the odd Black-headed Jay came down for a drink. After lunch most of the group went down to Nainital in search of new bank notes in exchange for the now banned ones we had in our possession. They were successful in getting at least some of it changed up. Gary went birding and some of us took advantage of the photographic hide which I helped design last November. A lovely evening meal accompanied by the odd glass of wine and we retired to bed quite tired after a long day. 7
Saturday November 12 A leisurely breakfast before leaving for Tiger Camp via Nainital and a return visit to the bank. Yesterday we were given too much money by mistake and upstanding citizens that we are we felt compelled to return the cash. This gave us the opportunity to change our remaining large notes for more new small notes. I now need a wheelbarrow to transport it all around. Eventually we were on our way and after a couple hours or so we arrived at Corbett Falls. This was full of people taking selfies which is becoming increasingly annoying. They are even doing it in the tiger reserves. Real safari buffs then! Half an hour later and we were checking into Tiger Camp just in time to have some lunch. The afternoon was spent walking by the Koshi River in search of the ibisbill which unfortunately we did not find. There were and had been many people around for all the festivities and I reckon it disappeared up or down river out of our reach. However a fine Wallcreeper and lots of Plumbeous Redstarts and a few White- capped Water Redstarts were noted while Plain Martins flew overhead. It had been a long day and so after yet more delicious food most retired for an early night, knowing we had a 6 am start for our first tiger safari in Corbett. Sunday November 13 Monday 14 These two days were spent doing four safaris, three in Birjani and one in more distant Jhirna zone. Although tantalisingly close on several occasions we never actually saw a tiger. We saw many pug marks, many of which were clearly fresh, alarm calls from deer and monkeys and even growling next to the road, but no sightings. 8
The birds however were excellent with both Great and Oriental Pied Hornbills being seen, Jungle, Spotted Owlets, Brown Wood and Brown Fish Owl also put in an appearance and a family party of four Black-winged Kites together was great to see. Woodpeckers were in abundance with Himalayan, Streak-throated, Black-rumped and Greater Flamebacks being found, Grey-capped Pygmy seen and spectacularly two sightings of Slaty Grey noted, albeit only flight views. A Grey Monitor Lizard sat in the same hole as last year and the guide seemed rather amused when I suggested it was clearly a plastic one. Although no tigers, the experience of Corbett NP is special with its lovely sub- Himalayan scenery and Teak forests. Staying at Tiger Camp is always a pleasure with its unique ambiance and excellent service. Long-tailed Shrike Tuesday November 15 Today was supposed to start with an elephant ride but with so many tourists around we were unable to get the early ride. As compensation Asian Adventures organised a further safari in the buffer zone. We had to leave no later than lunchtime in order to get back to Delhi It was supposed to be a birding safari which pleased Ratan as he would rather be birding than looking for tigers. We stopped for a party of Bar-winged flycatcher Shrikes which were nice to see but it was not long before we met another jeep who had just witnessed a tigress with two small cubs cross the road. This was not supposed to happen. We waited for some time when suddenly they were spotted in thick forest. Everybody got a view and this was well deserved after all the effort we had put in and it was great to see the excitement on people's faces. It was a great experience especially for those who saw the cubs (might only have been myself). 9
We returned to base with not much of a bird list but smiley faces and had some breakfast followed two hours later by lunch. Plenty of time to pack and on the road by 12.45 with the prospect of a long journey. Fine until we got to Delhi which was virtually grid locked. It appears to get worse year on year and the pollution is mind boggling. It is hard to understand how people can live here. We eventually arrived at the Shanti Palace hotel which is just fifteen minutes from the airport on a good day. A late dinner, and for us a rather late night but tomorrow breakfast is not until 8 o'clock. Wednesday November 16 A leisurely breakfast and after saying goodbye to Ann, who had a later flight, we set off to the airport. Yesterday's traffic had subsided and all went smoothly throughout. It did not appear at all busy in the airport and we left the stand just five minutes late at 13.35 and as I am writing this we are just crossing the Black Sea coast in northern Turkey. We arrived at Heathrow from where we all went our own ways. A successful and very enjoyable trip as usual. It is always a pleasure to travel with such a wonderful group of likeminded people and I thank you all for your company. John November 2016 10
Bird list compiled by Gary Rootes Grey francolin Painted spurfowl Koklass pheasant Kalij pheasant Red Junglefowl Indian peafowl Lesser whistling duck Knob billed duck Ruddy shelduck Gadwall Northern pintail Little grebe Painted stork Asian openbill Black stork Wooly necked stork Lesser adjutant Greater flamingo Black headed ibis Black bittern Striated heron Indian pond heron Grey heron Purple heron Cattle egret Great egret Intermediate egret Little egret Darter Little cormorant Indian cormorant Hobby Peregrine Black winged kite Black kite Oriental honey buzzard Egyptian vulture Himalayan Griffon vulture Red-legged vulture Indian vulture White-rumped vulture Crested serpent eagle Marsh harrier Shikra Northern goshawk White eyed buzzard Greater spotted eagle Steppe eagle Changeable hawk eagle Crested hawk-eagle Booted eagle White breasted waterhen Brown crake Small buttonquail 11
Purple swamphen Coot Sarus crane Bronze winged jacana Black winged stilt River lapwing Yellow wattled lapwing Red wattled lapwing Ruff Common redshank Greenshank Green sandpiper Common sandpiper Little stint Pallas gull River tern Painted sandgrouse Rock Dove Oriental turtle dove Spotted dove Laughing dove Yellow footed green pigeon Alexandrine parakeet Rose ringed parakeet Plum headed parakeet Greater coucal Indian scops owl Collared scops owl Jungle owlet Spotted owlet Brown fish owl Brown wood owl Crested treeswift House swift Common hoopoe Indian roller Stork billed kingfisher White throated kingfisher Common kingfisher Crested kingfisher Pied kingfisher Blue bearded bee-eater Green bee-eater Indian grey hornbill Great hornbill Pied Hornbill Great barbet Brown headed barbet Lineated Barbet Coppersmith barbet Great slaty woodpecker Rufous bellied woodpecker Brown capped pygmy W/P Grey-capped Pygmy W/P Yellow crowned woodpecker Streak throated woodpecker 12
Grey headed woodpecker Lesser goldenback White naped woodpecker Common woodshrike Large cuckooshrike Common iora Small minivet Long-billed minivet Bay backed shrike Long tailed shrike Grey backed shrike Southern grey shrike Hair-crested drongo Black drongo Ashy drongo White bellied drongo Black hooded oriole White throated fantail White browed fantail Black headed jay Red billed blue magpie Rufous treepie Grey treepie Large billed crow Indian jungle crow House crow Great tit Green backed tit Black throated tit Dusky crag martin Streak throated swallow Wire tailed swallow Barn swallow Red rumped swallow Himalayan bulbul White eared bulbul Black headed bulbul Red whiskered bulbul Red vented bulbul Grey breasted prinia Ashy prinia Plain prinia Common tailorbird Sykes warbler Common chiff chaff Mountain chiff chaff Buff bared warbler Greenish warbler Rusty cheeked scimitar babbler Common babbler Jungle babbler White throated laughingthrush White crested laughingthrush Streaked laughingthrush Chestnut crowned laughingthrush Rufous sibia 13
Yellow eyed babbler Oriental white eye White tailed nuthatch Chestnut-bellied nuthatch Wallcreeper Bank myna Common myna Asian pied starling Brahminy starling Rosy starling Blue whistling thrush Orange headed thrush Grey winged blackbird Himalayan bluetail Oriental magpie robin Indian robin Plumbeous water redstart White capped redstart Black redstart Grey bushchat Pied bushchat Blue capped rock thrush Rufous gorgeted flycatcher Red breasted flycatcher Tickells blue flycatcher Grey headed canary flycatcher Orange bellied leafbird Thick billed flowerpecker Purple sunbird Green tailed sunbird Crimson sunbird Purple-rumped sunbird House sparrow Chestnut shouldered petronia Baya weaver Scaly breasted munia Grey wagtail White wagtail White browed wagtail Paddyfield pipit Olive backed pipt Tawny pipit Tree pipit Altai accentor Yellow breasted greenfinch Crested bunting White-capped bunting MAMMALS Rhesus Macaque Hanuman Langur Sambar Muntjac Spotted Deer Nilgai 14
Indian Gazelle Goral Gaur Wild Boar Sloth Bear Jackal Tiger Common Palm Civet Ruddy Mongoose Indian Hare Three-striped Palm Squirrel Five-striped Palm squirrel Brown Rat Cobra 15