SOUTHERN SPAIN 2015 July 30 th August COTE DONANA inc. ANDUJAR day trip By Clive Oldham
All Birdwatching guides to Southern Spain mention diminished bird activity in July and August, understandable, due to the soaring temperatures. However, if you are prepared to rise in the dark and be at your birding destination by first light, the first 4-5 hours of the day are often very rewarding, as well as more comfortable! By one o clock it really starts to heat up, so you can then retire for a wellearned siesta! This was my son Jack and I s tactic, resulting in 140 bird species, including a few lifers. We based ourselves at El Rocio which seemed reasonably central to the sites we intended to visit, having flown into Malaga with Monarch Airlines. Seville would have been the destination airport of choice, if our local airport had provided flights. Faro, Portugal would also have been a good choice. We hired a Skoda Fabia from Europcar which coped very well with the many dry, very dusty/bumpy tracks we took it down. John Butler s book was our main reference, aided by a couple of local maps picked up at Visitor Centres along the way.
Thursday, July 30 th Having taken well over 3 hours to arrive in El Rocio (incorporating a stop for provisions), only an early evening visit to the La Rocina/ Palacio Del Acebron sites was possible. Here we saw a dozen or so Bee-eaters and a few Crested Larks along the road. Further out on the heath a perched Stonechat was spotted. Common species seen in and around the woodland nearer to the Palacio were Woodchat Shrike, Hoopoe, House Sparrow and Collared Dove, with Longtailed, Great and Blue Tits very much in evidence. These birds along with Black Kite were seen virtually every day and will not be mentioned again. We were to return to this site later on in the trip at dusk. Friday, July 31 st The Entremuros, Isla Mayor Rice Fields, The Reedbeds & Dehesa De Abajo. These sites are all detailed in John Butler s book, and most importantly still held water. We were informed that the Canada De Rianzuela (the lagoon at Dehesa De Abajo) would evaporate totally after another couple of weeks. The lagoon at El Rocio is allowed to dry out by June to eliminate the mosquitoes. The rice fields however are obviously always wet, but, as the rice plants grow, the birds become less visible as the summer advances.
It did not take very long to acquire most of the heron species on our day list when we were in these areas. Black-crowned Night Herons, Cattle Egrets, Little Egrets, Squacco Herons, Grey Herons, Purple Herons plus White Storks, Glossy Ibis, and Spoonbills were to a greater, or slightly lesser extent, abundant. We had to work a little harder for Little Bittern and Great White Egret but eventually added these two to our list, Jack remarking that Great White Egret hadn t been forthcoming as two flew over his head! Plenty of Whiskered Terns and to a lesser extent Gull-billed Terns were flying around over the rice fields and the areas of open water. At the Dehesa De Abajo many Coot were evident, with a couple of Red-knobbed Coot being identified amongst them (one with an ID collar!), after some patient searching. Also Moorhen were fairly common. There were over 300 Greater Flamingo feeding on the Canada De Rianzuela, having spotted a singleton (unusual?), earlier at the Entremuros. One Slender-billed Gull was swimming on the water close to the Flamingos. Quite a few Black-winged Stilts and Black-tailed Godwits were in evidence. Other waders seen today were; 2 Greenshank, 2 Little-Ringed Plover, 2 Green Sandpiper, Kentish Plover and Common Sandpiper. Raptors today included 1
Short-toed Eagle, 3 Booted Eagle, 2 Marsh Harrier, 3 Montagu s Harrier, 1 Common Buzzard and one or two Kestrel. At the Entremuros we were treated to a Roller which was hunting prey off a wire beside the road. Hirundines were everywhere and included; Common Swift, Pallid Swift, Sand Martin, Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow and House Martin. A Kingfisher was seen flying over the Reedbeds (a bird seen every subsequent day), and we heard a couple of Quail calling. Other fairly common birds seen in these areas were; Yellow Wagtail, Fan-tailed Warbler, Spotless Starling, Goldfinch and Cetti s Warbler (mostly heard, but occasionally allowing brief glimpses). Our lifer for the day, were some Golden (Yellow-crowned) Bishop weaver birds. We saw at least two brightly coloured males, one of which posed for us for a
few minutes atop a dead branch above the Reedbeds. This was a very exotic little bird which resembled a large bumblebee when in flight, most extraordinary! Two birds I have nearly forgotten to mention were a Barn Owl and a Little Owl, both seen whilst waiting for first light. All in all this was an excellent first day to start our trip. Saturday 1 st August The Entremuros, Dehesa De Abajo, Canada De Rianzuela, & The Reedbeds.
We decided to retrace our steps from the previous day, with the intention of visiting the two hides early doors, which overlook the Canada De Rianzuela, and trying for some better photos. All the Herons and other large wading birds were again much in evidence and I will not mention again. On the water, Mallard and Shoveler were our first waterfowl of the day, quickly followed by Marbled Duck (having dipped on these lovely little ducks on our three previous visits to Southern Spain!). We saw three in total today most satisfying. We also identified a female Garganey and one or two Little Grebe. A Purple Swamphen decided to stroll out into the centre of the lagoon and then wander back. New waders today were one or two Ringed Plover, 6 Dunlin, 20+ Curlew Sandpiper (mostly in summer plumage), 10 Ruff and probably about 150 Avocet. Along with the Terns, there were a couple of Collared Pratincole flying over the rice fields. After these first two days we had by now seen Sardinian, Great Reed, Reed, Cettis, Fan- tailed( Zitting Cistacola ) and Savi s Warblers, some more difficult than others. Near the Dehesa De Abajo Visitor Centre a Southern Great (Iberian) Shrike was seen
hunting from a telegraph wire. Also we found another couple of male Golden Bishops. Once again we managed a rewarding day. Sunday 2 nd August Paraje Natural Marismas Del Odiel and Lagunas De Palos Y Las Madres (mainly Laguna de la Mujer, also Laguna de la Jara and Laguna de Primera de Palos). Today we headed west to Huelva where we encountered many locals still partying, coming away from a large Theme Park (about 6am!). As we headed out down the long causeway, there were quite a few fishermen whose tactic was to sleep over on site. High tide had been a couple of hours before dawn, so we watched the sunrise, accompanied by the gentle snoring of one of the fishermen tucked up in his sleeping bag by the lighthouse! Heading back up the causeway, as the tide receded, we soon started picking up seabirds. Gulls included; Yellow-legged, Lesser Blackbacked, Great Black-backed, Black-headed, Mediterranean, and 100+ Audouin s. Also there were 8+ Sandwich Terns which settled near the gulls, and further on we picked up some Common and Little Terns. There were no signs of the Caspian Terns which are meant to frequent this area. New waders seen today; Curlew, Whimbrel, Redshank, Oystercatcher, Bar-tailed Godwit, Turnstone and a flock of 15 Sanderling. Other waders already seen were also present.
As we started to leave the saltmarsh it was replaced by greener vegetation, including scattered trees. Two nesting platforms came into view, one occupied by an adult Osprey and a nearly fledged juvenile. I dropped Jack off to take some pics, as stopping the car was a problem on this road. I turned around, and cruised back down to see Jack gesticulating wildly in my direction. Evidently he had picked up a Black-winged Kite perched on top of a tree. As I exited the car rapidly, the bird was flying off in the direction I had just come from. Despite some searching we were unable to relocate the bird. We now moved on to the lagoons on the Matalascanas side of Huelva just off the main road (N442) before you get to Mazagon.
Most of our time was spent at Laguna de la Mujer which we found most rewarding. New species for the trip were; 2 Turtle Dove, 1 Western Orphean Warbler, 1 Melodious Warbler, 1 Penduline Tit (many heard), and 3 Common Waxbill (lifer). Azure-winged Magpies were abundant, as they were on most days. A few Magpies were also seen (observed on other days). Purple Swamphen, Little Bittern, 2 juvenile Whiskered Tern, Spoonbill and Collared Pratincole were also present. As the heat took hold we called it a day, tired but very happy.
Monday 3 rd August Sierra De Andujar National Park, La Rocina to Palacio Del Acebron road at dusk. We always intended to have a day in more mountainous terrain. Our aim was to search for the larger raptors, and for this venue, the allure of a very slim chance to spot an Iberian Lynx. We had our earliest start of the trip ( 3 hours to Andujar ) which ensured we were heading up into the hills just after 7-30. Our reference for this trip was John van der Woude s excellent trip report (Cloudbirders) from March 2015. As we progressed up into the Sierra one or two stops produced some good birds, some directly from the car. Jack found a foraging flock of Tits which included a Crested Tit, whilst I noted 2 Great Spotted Woodpeckers and an Iberian (Green) Woodpecker. A very noisy family of 8 Golden Orioles were further up the road and for once reasonably showy! From the car we saw a juvenile Sub-Alpine Warbler, a Western Bonneli s Warbler, plus Sardinian and Melodious Warblers. We were heading for the dam at Embalse del
Jandula and went through an area where they rear the Fighting Bulls. Fortunately, we kept our distance! Red and Fallow Deer were seen along the way, but sadly (as expected) no sign of Iberian Lynx. A few Red-legged Partridge were evident and at the dam we picked up Stock Dove, Jay, Chaffinch and Spotless Starling performing some extraordinary mimicry of other birds calls. I heard a Lesser-spotted Woodpecker, but despite some careful searching (and listening) could not locate it. As the heat increased, we started looking to the sky and were rewarded with a single Black Vulture soaring overhead. As we retraced our steps, some soaring birds were noticed off to the left of
the road. These turned out to be 20+ Griffon Vulture. Close to these birds, 2 Spanish Imperial Eagles also enjoyed the thermals. We continued to explore this very picturesque area from the comfort of our air-conditioned car, but did not add any new species, apart from a male Blackcap by the river. Having stopped for refreshments and provisions in Andujar our aim was to return to El Rocio in time for sundown. On the journey back, Jack spotted a male Montagu s Harrier and a Black-winged Kite. So, we returned to the Palacio Del Acebron end of the road from La Rocina and parked up. Whilst waiting for the light to fade a Red Fox sauntered past the car carrying some unidentifiable prey. As soon as the gloom started to engulf us, two Red-necked Nightjars flew by the car and over the road. We started down the road, headlights blazing, to spot a bird landing on the tarmac. As Jack was about to start photographing it, a car came the other way flushing the bird just before it was squashed! We thought we d missed our chance but fortunately a second bird landed further on, allowing extraordinarily close views. We saw 7 Red-necked Nightjars altogether. So back to our hotel, exhausted but thrilled!
Tuesday 4 th August Dehesa De Pilas and Dehesa De Abajo. Today we stayed fairly close to base after our previous days exploits. We were hoping for some steppe birds at Dehesa de Pilas, but only managed a solitary female Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, which we picked up from the distinctive call. It flew over our heads to land in the adjacent stony field. Although it didn t stay long, we were thankful for this one bird. Other new birds for the trip were; 6 Short-toed Lark, 50+ Jackdaw, 1 Raven and a small flock of Linnet. Other notable birds were; 6 Red-legged Partridge, 4 Marbled Duck, 1 male and 1 female Montagu s Harrier, 1 Booted Eagle (light phase), 1 Purple Swamphen, 1 Gull-billed Tern, Yellow Wagtails and 2 Great Reed Warbler. Wednesday 5 th August Brazo Del Este ( North and South ), Isla De Los Olivillos. For our last full day, we decided to head to the East of Donana via the little car ferry at Coria del Rio. Very often, the final day of a birding holiday can be a slight anti-climax, having probably already achieved the majority of your target species. However, today was to prove the exception, beginning with the journey to Corio (45 minutes away), still well before dawn.
Just past the entrance to the Dehesa De Abajo Visitor Centre, we were astounded to see an Iberian Lynx stroll across the road, well illuminated by our car headlights! I had virtually stopped the car and Jack was able to watch it sauntering along in the scrub, just below us. We were completely taken by surprise, having already disturbed a Red-necked Nightjar just before, which had settled on the road tarmac. Our luck was obviously in, and so it was to prove. We crossed over the Rio Guadalquivir on the ferry at about 6-30am. It was still dark, and as the crossing takes only five minutes we were at the first site just before dawn. As first light took hold, it became evident that hundreds of birds were on the move overhead. Many of the now familiar Herons, and
Glossy Ibis in particular, were noticeable. Also huge flocks of unidentifiable ducks added to the spectacle. In front of us small birds were active in the tamarisk trees. These turned out to be Blackheaded Weavers, with at least 4 birds evident. On the other side of the road, in the bushes and trees, there were plenty of (100+) Spanish Sparrow - our first of the trip. We could hear a Quail close by, and then the familiar nasal song of Greenfinch, with four seen. Also Little and Great Crested Grebes were noted. We then moved from the northern sector of the Brazo del Este, on to the southern sector. Along the way, we picked up a Short-toed Lark at the side of the track. As we drove along this wide bumpy track, a field scattered with hay bales appeared, with a largish raptor perched on top of one. Stopping the car set the bird off flying and all we were able to notice was a lot of white underneath its wings. As this happened, Jack noticed some other birds flying and said they looked like Little Bustards. I tried to locate them but failed, with Jack informing me they had landed in the hay bale field. We searched the area but there was no sign of the birds. Feeling very frustrated, we were about to move off when Jack noticed movement. This time the birds gave themselves up, and were indeed 4 female Little Bustards. A real surprise find, but what was that mystery raptor?
Further along this track we came to a wet meadow, where three or four horses were grazing. We could see quite a few waders feeding actively in this area. Once we had set up the scope, we identified the following: 2 Ringed Plover, 3 Kentish Plover, 6 Common Sandpiper, 4 Ruff, 8 Wood Sandpiper and 3 Temmincks Stint. We were unsure about the Stints ID, until one had a short flight away from us displaying the distinctive white tail. On the opposite side were some reeds from where we heard the familiar squealing of a Water Rail. Whilst searching these reeds Jack found and had good views of a male and a female Little Bittern. A little further on, we found 50+ Collared Pratincole, mostly on the ground near a sluice gate, and more Black-headed Weavers flitting around, in and out of an intricately constructed nest.
Eventually, we turned around and headed back down the track. On the way past the hay bale field we noticed the largish raptor from before. This time we were able to photograph it (sat and in flight), and came to the conclusion that it was a Long-legged Buzzard. It had slightly longer wings than a Common Buzzard and with it being also a little larger it had a less compact flight silhouette (almost Eagle-like). Many of the markings also fitted the ID well. Evidently they do breed in Spain, over towards Tarifa. Of course this was a real bonus for us. We moved on to the Isla De Los Olivillos area. The very large lagoon had quite a few Coot (no Red-knobbed), but not many ducks. Fortunately, we did find a female Ferruginous Duck preening on a branch, quite close to the bank. We now headed back, observing 10 Greylag Geese whilst aboard the short ferry crossing. We stopped on the way past the Dehesa De Abajo and added 2 female Red-crested Pochards to the trip list. We d had a most enjoyable day, proving to be an extremely suitable finale. Thursday 6 th August La Rocina and Palacio Del Acebron. Since we had an 8-15pm return flight from Malaga today, we decided to try for some scrub/heathland birds at this site before breakfast. As the sun rose, we managed to find 3 Dartford Warblers, 2 Sardinian Warblers, 1 female Spectacled Warbler, 1 Melodious Warbler, Bee-eaters, Azure-winged Magpies plus we heard Cetti s Warbler, Robin, and Wren. A satisfying end to the trip, but now it was time to go home. As a postscript, Jack did manage to see 8+
Lesser Kestrels circling off the Seville to Malaga motorway, on our way back to the airport. Species. Max No. in one sighti ng. Greylag Goose 10 3 Mallard 4 5 Shoveler 3 4 *Marbled Duck 4 2 Garganey 1 1 Gadwell 2 3 Red-crested Pochard 2 1 *Ferruginous Duck 1 1 Little Grebe 4 3 Great Crested Grebe 3 1 Cormorant 1 1 Little Bittern 2 3 Night Heron 6 4 Cattle Egret 50+ 4 Little Egret 6+ 5 No of day s see n
Squacco Heron 10+ 4 Great Egret 2 2 Grey Heron 4 5 Purple Heron 1 3 White Stork 30+ 5 Glossy Ibis 50+ 4 Spoonbill 6+ 5 Greater Flamingo 300+ 5 Griffon Vulture 20+ 1 Black Vulture 1 1 Osprey 2 1 Spanish Imperial Eagle 2 1 Short-toed Eagle 1 1 Booted Eagle 1 3 Black Kite 3 8 Marsh Harrier 1 3 Montagu s Harrier 2 6 Common Buzzard 1 1
*Long-legged Buzzard 1 1 Black-winged Kite 1 2 Kestrel 2 4 Lesser Kestrel 8+ 1 Moorhen 3 5 Coot 8+ 5 Red-knobbed Coot 2 1 Purple Swamphen 1 3 Oystercatcher 2 1 Avocet 150+ 4 Black-winged Stilt 8 5 Collared Pratincole 50+ 4 Little Ringed Plover 2 1 Ringed Plover 3 2 Kentish Plover 12+ 5 Sanderling 15 1 Turnstone 5 1
Dunlin 6 2 Curlew Sandpiper 20+ 4 Green Sandpipier 2 3 Common Sandpiper 6 5 Redshank 2 1 Greenshank 2 2 Wood Sandpiper 8 1 *Temmincks Stint 3 1 Black-tailed Godwit 25+ 4 Bar-tailed Godwit 6 1 Curlew 6 1 Whimbrel 2 1 Ruff 10 3 Black-headed Gull 6 1 Slender-billed Gull 1 1 Mediterranean Gull 2 1 Yellow-legged Gull 6 1 Audouins Gull 50+ 1 Lesser Black-backed Gull 12 1 Greater Black-backed Gull 2 1 Little Tern 2 1 Sandwich Tern 8+ 1 Gull-billed Tern 2 4 Common Tern 2 1 Whiskered Tern 6 5 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse 1 1 Stock Dove 1 1 Wood Pigeon 2 2 Collared Dove 2 5 Turtle Dove 2 1 Little Bustard 4 1 Barn Owl 1 1 Little Owl 1 2 *Red-necked Nightjar 2 2
Swift 6 2 Pallid Swift 4 5 Hoopoe 2 7 Kingfisher 1 6 Bee-eater 15 8 Roller 1 2 Iberian Woodpecker 1 1 Great-spotted Woodpecker 2 1 Crested Lark 6 7 Short-toed Lark 6 2 Sand Martin 4 2 Barn Swallow 6 8 Red-rumped Swallow 2 6 House Martin 4 7 Yellow Wagtail 3 6 White Wagtail 1 2 Stonechat 1 4 Blackbird 1 3 Blackcap 1 1 Western Orphean Warbler 1 1 Sardinian Warbler 1 6 Sub-alpine Warbler 1 1
Spectacled Warbler 1 1 Dartford Warbler 3 1 Zitting Cisticola 3 5 Savi s Warbler 1 2 Cetti s Warbler 1 2 Reed Warbler 3 4 Great Reed Warbler 2 3 Melodious Warbler 1 3 Western Bonelli s Warbler 1 1 Great Tit 1 5 Blue Tit 2 3 Crested Tit 1 1 Long-tailed Tit 4 3 Penduline Tit 1 1 Iberian Grey Shrike 1 1 Woodchat Shrike 2 8 Azure-winged Magpie 10+ 7 Magpie 2 4 Jay 4 1 Jackdaw 50+ 1 Raven 1 1 Spotless Starling 50+ 5 Golden Oriole 8 1 House Sparrow 20+ 5 Spanish Sparrow 100+ 1 Chaffinch 2 1 Linnet 4 1 Goldfinch 6 3 Serin 1 1 Greenfinch 4 1 **Golden Bishop 2 2 **Common Waxbill 3 1
**Black-headed Weaver 4 1 *Lifer **Lifer & Introduced 140 Species Heard Only Wren, Water Rail, Lesser-spotted Woodpecker, Quail, Robin. Mammals Iberian Lynx, Rabbit, Red Deer, Fallow Deer, Red Fox, Hare.
Heard Only Marsh Frog (many). Clive Oldham Photographs: Jack Oldham.