Thread Catcher Patern withdetachable Pincushion and OptionalPosy andscisorstab
Sew In Style Thr hread Catcher with Detachable Pincushion and Optional Posy and Scissors Tab Materials and Supplies Outside Bag Fabric - (1) Fat Quarter (18 x 22 ) Bag lining, ceramic tile cover, hanging tab, scissors tab - (1) Fat Quarter ( 18 x 22 ) Contrasting Trim Strip Fabric 1 7/8 x 18 Coordinating scraps for the pincushion Thread to match fabrics Ceramic tile (1) 3 x 6 Subway tile (available at hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowe s) Heavyweight Sew-In Interfacing (such as Pellon 50 Heavyweight Stabilizer) - 8 x 18 Flat half inch boning such as Rigilene - 18 ½ inches ( or any other half inch flat boning) 4 ½ inches Hook and Loop Tape - ¾ inch or 1 inch wide (such as Velcro) - Crushed Walnut Shells for the pincushion - about 1¼ cups, or filling of your choice. Non-slip shelf liner 5 ½ x 2 ¾ (such as Rubbermaid Grip-It Shelf and Drawer Liner) Scraps of cotton batting - Warm and Natural type Water Soluble or Disappearing Ink Marking Pen Ruler A small clear acrylic quilting ruler works well Tacky Glue or other craft glue. Optional for the Posy - Two (2) 5 ½ squares of complimentary fabric One (1) 5 ½ square of HeatnBond Ultrahold Iron-On Adhesive One (1) button for the center of the posy. Basic Instructions Read through all of the instructions before you begin. RST means right sides together All seams are ¼ inch unless otherwise stated. - 1 -
Cutting the Fabric Outer Bag Fabric and Interfacing 1. From the outer bag fabric and the interfacing, cut one piece 18 x 8 from each. Lining Fabric 1. From the lining fabric cut one piece 18 x 9 for the bag lining. 2. Cut two (2) pieces 7 x 4 for ceramic tile cover. 3. Cut one (1) 5 x 2 ¾ for hanging tab. 4. Cut one (1) piece 2 x 2 ¼ for the scissors tab. Contrasting Trim Strip 1. Cut one (1) strip 18 x 1 7/8. Pincushion 1. For pincushion, from coordinating scraps, cut (1) piece 7 ½ x 4 ¼ for the pincushion back. 2. Cut seven (7) coordinating scraps 1 ½ x 4 ½. You may want to cut the two scraps for both ends of the pincushion from the same fabric. This acts to frame the pincushion. Batting 1. Cut (1) piece 7 x 4 to pad the ceramic tile cover. 2. Cut one (1) piece 7 ½ x 4 ¼ to pad the pincushion top. Hook and Loop Tape cut one piece 4 ½. Optional Posy 1. Cut two (2) 5 ½ squares of fabric for the posy. These can be of the same fabric or two similar fabrics. It looks nice to have a different print on the back side of the posy. 2. Cut one (1) 5 ½ square of HeatnBond Ultrahold. - 2 -
Assembling the Thread Catcher 1. Begin with the contrasting trim strip. Fold it in half lengthwise and press. 2. Lay the outer bag fabric on top of the same sized interfacing, making certain that all of the edges are lined up. 3. Place the trim strip on top of the outer bag fabric and interfacing, matching the raw edges of the trim strip with the raw edges of the outer bag and interfacing along the 18 edge. The folded edge of the trim strip is to be on the left, with the raw edge on the right. 4. Sew ¼ inch from the folded LEFT edge of trim strip along the 18 inch length. 5. Place the lining fabric on top of the outer bag fabric, RST, and flip to the other side with interfacing side up. Making certain that the lining and outer bag fabrics edges are lined up, pin in place along the 18 inch side on which the trim strip is attached, as shown. Sew directly on top of the previous trim strip stitching line. - 3 -
6. With the right sides of the fabrics facing up and both pieces lying flat, press the fabrics open along the trim strip. Press only the lining fabric upwards. The trim strip will lay flat on top of the outer bag fabric. Do not fold the interfacing, but let the lining fabric lay on top of it. 7. Mark the center of the raw 18 edges on both the outer bag fabric and the lining fabric. 8. With RST, match both ends of the trim strip, the trim strip seam lines and the sides of the outer bag and lining fabrics. Pin in place. Note: the fabrics in the photo to the right are NOT lined up, but are stacked to show positioning. - 4 -
9. Begin sewing the back seam at the interfacing/outer bag edge. Using ¼ inch seam allowance, sew the seam along the interfacing and outer bag fabric until reaching the end of the interfacing. Backstitch, then leave a 5/8 inch opening. Backstitch again, then continue sewing to the bottom edge of the bag lining and backstitch. Press the back seam open. Making the Boxed Bag Bottom 1. Match the seam and the center mark on the outer bag and pin in place. 2. Sew a ¼ inch seam all along the pinned edge of the outer bag. - 5 -
Repeat this step at the bottom edge of the lining fabric, but leave a 3 opening in the center of the seam for turning the bags right side out. 3. Lay the bags flat and mark the corners for cutting using a ruler. At each of the four corners, ( 2 corners on the outer bag fabric and two corners on the lining fabric), mark a box 2 inches tall by 1¾ inches wide, with the 2 inch measurement running the length of the bag. - 6 -
5. Carefully cut away the boxes that you drew on the outer bag and the bag lining. 6. Place your index fingers inside the cut box and spread the corner open, bringing the inner corners of the cut box to the outside, matching the raw edges. Pin in place. Sew the ¼ inch seam. For a short YouTube video illustrating this step, paste the following link into your browser. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6px6xe7o3u Repeat this step at all four corners. 7. Turn the bags right side out through the opening in the bottom of the lining and push out all of the corners. 8. Push the inner bag to the inside of the outer bag, lining up all of the corners. The lining will form a 5/8 inch cuff at the top of the bag as it folds over the interfacing. - 7 -
9. Pin all around the cuff, making sure that the bag lining lays over the interfacing snuggly, but does not fold the interfacing. 10. To make the casing, place a mark on either side of the center back seam. These two marks will be on the cuff, just above the trim strip, ¾ of an inch from the seam. This will make an opening in the cuff that will aid in the insertion of the boning.. 11. Beginning at the mark to the right side of the back seam, top stitch around the cuff on the lining fabric, sewing very close to the trim strip. End at the other mark. It is important that the top stitching be very close to the trim strip, otherwise, the boning will not readily slide through the casing. Note: A free-arm feature on your sewing machine is helpful here, but not essential. If your sewing machine does not have free-arm capability, you will want to hand baste the cuff all around to insure that it stays in place before you top stitch the cuff. - 8 -
Optional Scissors Tab 1. Using the previously cut scissors tab piece, (lining fabric 2 ¼ x 2 ) press the 2 inch sides in about ¼ inch, then fold piece in half, lengthways, wrong sides together. Fold the outer raw edges in to the center fold and press to a finished size of about ½ inch by 1 ¾ inches. Top stitch all around close to the edge. - 2. Center the scissors tab on the back seam, 1 ¼ below the top of the bag and pin in place. Sew the short ends directly on top the previous top stitching. Inserting the Boning 1. Trim one end of the boning into a rounded shape for ease in pushing the boning through the casing. - 9 -
2. From the inside of the cuff, insert the boning into the 5/8 inch opening made when sewing the back seam of the bag. Push the boning through the casing, taking care not to crease or crimp it. Hint - During this step it is helpful to lay the thread catcher on its side on the tabletop to maintain the rounded shape for the casing. This aids in moving the boning through. It will slide through nicely for most of the length of the casing but may bind up a bit toward the back seam. You may find it necessary to gather up the fabric along the top edge of the bag in order to move all of the boning through the casing, then smooth the fabric out again as you work the boning past the seam allowance and under the seam until it is completely contained within the casing, with both ends overlapping. There will be a double layer of boning at the back seam area. Do not trim the excess. There is no need to tack the boning down. It floats perfectly within the casing. Making the Hanging Tab and Covering the Ceramic Tile 1. With RST, sew a seam on the short sides of the 2 ¾ x 5 hanging tab. This piece will connect the ceramic tile to the bag. 2. Finger press the seam open. Turn the hanging tab right side out. Press with the seam running down the center of the hanging tab. - 10 -
3. Lay one piece of the 4 x 7 ceramic tile cover fabric on top of the same sized batting piece. Edge stitch the hook side of the hook and loop tape running lengthwise down the middle. This will be the top of the ceramic tile cover. 4. Center and pin the hanging tab, seam side up, to one of the 7 inch sides of the top ceramic tile cover. Place the other 4 x 7 ceramic tile cover piece on top, RST, matching raw edges and pin. Sew ¼ inch from the edge around three sides, leaving the side opposite the connecting tab open. 5. Turn the ceramic tile cover right side out and push out the corners. At this point you will want to check the fit of the ceramic tile. Insert the tile into the opening. It should fit somewhat snuggly. Remove the tile for the time being. The tile cover will be finished after it is attached to the bag. 6. On the hanging tab with the seam side up, measure 2 inches from where the tab meets the tile cover and draw a line. This will be your sewing line for attaching the hanging tab to the inside of the bag. 7. On the inside edge of the bag rim, pin the hanging tab, seam side up, so that the marked sewing line is in line with the casing top stitching. Also line up the seam on the hanging tab with the back seam of the bag. Sew along the marked line. - 11 -
8. Insert the ceramic tile into the tile cover. Wrap the end like a package, folding in the fabric on the short outer edges of the ceramic tile and gluing it down. Fold in the back side of the ceramic tile cover, the side without the hook tape, and glue down, trimming off any excess fabric if necessary. Trim ¼ inch from edge of the batting to reduce bulk. Then fold the top ceramic tile cover fabric over the batting, then glue down Do not use too much glue. Press the glued edge with the iron to set the glue. If you prefer, you can hand sew the tile cover closed rather than gluing it closed. Making the Pincushion 1. Edge stitch the loop side of the hook and loop tape down the length of the 4 ¼ x 7 ½ pincushion back. 2. For the pincushion top, lay the seven (7) coordinating 1 ½ x 4 ½ inch strips side by side in an arrangement you like and sew together along the long sides of the pieces. Press all of the seams in one direction 3. Trim the pincushion top to 7 ½ x 4 ¼. 4. Place the pincushion top onto the same sized batting piece then layer the pincushion back, RST. Pin in place then sew all around, leaving a 1½ opening in the center of one short side. Turn right side out and push out the corners. Fill with about 1 ¼ cups of crushed walnut shells, or the filling of your choice, adding more or removing a bit until the pincushion is full but not too firm. Do not overfill. Otherwise, pins will not go in easily. - 12 -
Hint - A small funnel is handy to use for filling the pincushion, but a taped paper cone with a hole in the small end also works well. Hand stitch the opening closed using a blind stitch. Making the Optional Posy 1. Iron the HeatnBond to the back side of one 5 ½ square of fabric. Remove the paper and iron on the second 5 ½ square to the back. Using a disappearing ink pen, mark four (4) 2 ¼ circles. (A vitamin bottle lid works well as a template.) Cut out the circles with pinking shears. 2. Fold each circle in half, with the primary fabric on the outside. Fold up one side of the folded edge almost to center of the half circle. Fold up the other side almost to the center to form a sharp point at the bottom. Pin in place. Repeat this step with all four of the circles. 3. Machine stitch the four points together in a circle, ¼ inch from the points, making sure that each point butts up tightly against the next point to form a tight flower and that the outer pinked edges are even. Sew around the points again to insure that all of the four points sit tightly together. - 13 -
4. Sew your choice of button to the center of the posy. From the left hand side of the pincushion, center and glue the posy to the seam that separates the 2 nd and 3 rd coordinating strip on the top of the pincushion. Finishing Hand stitch the opening in the bottom of the bag lining closed using a blind stitch. Glue a 5 ½ x 2 ¾ rectangle of rubberized non- slip shelf liner to back side of the ceramic tile cover. You are finished! Bet you can t make just one Notes from the Pattern Writer I have made more of these thread catchers than I can count and have learned a few things along the way. It seems that this first thread catcher takes a long time to make, but the next one will go faster, I promise. I have tried using a fusible interfacing and was not at all happy with the result. I find that I get a much better end product using a non-fusible interfacing. It goes without saying that you will want to use matching thread for your project. I have led Thread Catcher workshops and it breaks my heart to see someone put one of these items - 14 -
together using just one color of thread, usually white. Sometimes that is possible but often the fabrics require a thread color change along the way for topstitching. Feel free to get creative with the pincushion. Change the posy, add buttons, trims, yo-yo s or charms. The possibilities are endless. You might also want to strip piece the outer bag fabric. Again, have it your way! Make your Thread Catcher a one of a kind original that reflects your very own personal style. Copyright 2013 by Teri Gregg for Curry Bungalow All rights reserved. This pattern may not be reproduced without permission from Curry Bungalow. The finished product is intended for personal use only and may not be sold in whole or in part for mass retail/wholesale commercial purposes, for sale at markets, Guild Boutiques, craft or trade shows, or for sale on websites such as Etsy or ebay. Please feel free to make as many of the finished product as you like for yourself, but it is unlawful to sell the finished product without written permission from Curry Bungalow. Thank you for respecting this copyright. Thread Catcher and Pattern Design by Teri Gregg Cover Design by Jillian Monarch Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/shop/currybungalow Blog: www.currybungalow.blogspot.com Email: currybungalow@gmail.com - 15 -