How to care for leather shoes. Owner guide

How to care for leather shoes Owner guide

Alice Brodbeck 2018. All rights reserved. This document is protected by copyright. No part of this document may be distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means.

Purpose of this guide This guide provides the essential knowledge about leather care to help you improve the appearance of your leather shoes over time. Audience of this guide This guide addresses beginners as well as confirmed enthusiasts. If you own a pair of leather shoes and want to learn how to make them last and look beautiful, this guide is for you. What is not in this guide This guide concerns shoes for men and women, except high-heels, which require a different care routine. For more information about leather high-heels care, refer to the guide How to Care for Leather High-Heels. This guide does not concern patent leather care either. For more information about patent leather care, refer to the guide How to Care for Patent Leather Shoes.

Table of contents 1 ABOUT LEATHER SHOES... 3 1.1 THE PARTS OF A SHOE... 3 1.2 THE DO S AND DON TS OF LEATHER SHOES... 4 2 SELECTING A PAIR OF LEATHER SHOES... 5 2.1 SELECTING A PAIR OF SMOOTH LEATHER SHOES... 5 2.2 SELECTING A PAIR OF SUEDE SHOES... 5 3 MAKING A SHOE CARE KIT... 6 3.1 SELECTING PRODUCTS... 6 3.2 SELECTING TOOLS... 7 3.3 SPOTTING THE RIGHT BRUSH... 8 4 CARING FOR LEATHER SHOES... 9 4.1 SETTING A FREQUENCY OF CARE... 9 4.2 PREPARING YOUR LEATHER SHOES... 9 4.3 DUSTING YOUR LEATHER SHOES... 9 4.4 CLEANING YOUR LEATHER SHOES... 10 4.5 NOURISHING YOUR LEATHER SHOES... 10 4.6 NOURISHING THE WELT... 11 4.7 NOURISHING LEATHER OUTSOLES... 11 4.8 POLISHING YOUR LEATHER SHOES... 12 4.9 REMOVING A STAIN... 13 4.9.1 Removing a grease stain... 13 4.9.2 Removing a salt stain... 13 5 CARING FOR SUEDE SHOES... 14 5.1 PREPARING YOUR SUEDE SHOES... 14 5.2 DUSTING YOUR SUEDE SHOES... 14 5.3 REMOVING THE LUSTER... 14 5.4 CLEANING YOUR SUEDE SHOES... 14 5.5 NOURISHING THE WELT... 15 5.6 NOURISHING LEATHER OUTSOLES... 15 5.7 WATERPROOFING YOUR SUEDE SHOES... 15 5.8 REMOVING A STAIN... 16 5.8.1 Removing a small stain... 16 5.8.2 Removing a grease stain... 16 5.8.3 Removing dirty marks... 17 6 PROTECTING LEATHER OUTSOLES... 18 6.1 PROTECTING THE OUTSOLES WITH STEEL SHOE TAPS... 18 6.2 PROTECTING THE OUTSOLES WITH RUBBER PADS... 18 6.3 PROTECTING THE OUTSOLES FROM WATER... 18 2

1 ABOUT LEATHER SHOES 1.1 THE PARTS OF A SHOE The graphic below identifies the names of the different shoe parts. If you are not familiar with shoe terms, use this graphic as a reminder throughout this guide. The upper side of the shoe is the upper. The outer side of the shoe is the outsole. 3

1.2 THE DO S AND DON TS OF LEATHER SHOES The table below describes what you must or must not do with your pair of leather shoes, whether you just purchased a new one or already own one. Do s Use a shoehorn to put on your shoes to keep the counter in shape. Don ts Do not wear brand new shoes more than a few hours a day for a week. Use a wooden shoe tree to preserve the form of your leather shoes, reduce creases on the vamp and absorb humidity. Do not wear the same leather shoes two consecutive days. Brush your shoes with a dust brush before you store them so the dirt does not penetrate the leather. Do not walk on a wet surface with new leather shoes as the non-compacted sole may saturate with water and crack when it dries. Store your shoes in a pouch and/or a box to protect them from light and dust. Do not put wet shoes to dry near a direct source of heat. 4

2 SELECTING A PAIR OF LEATHER SHOES Leather is a durable and flexible material made from tanned animal skins, mostly cattle skins. Smooth leather and suede are the two most common types of leather. There are different grades of quality for both types. This section gives you information so you can select the best quality of leather. 2.1 SELECTING A PAIR OF SMOOTH LEATHER SHOES Smooth leather is an elegant choice for formal occasions. The table describes the different grades of smooth leather: Full grain naturally blemish-free rare expensive resistant Corrected grain chemically treated to remove blemishes common cheap / less expensive fragile 2.2 SELECTING A PAIR OF SUEDE SHOES Suede is the underside of the ski The fibers of the skin form the distinctive suede nap. Suede is a casual yet elegant alternative to smooth leather. The table describes the different grades of suede: Reverse calf Split-suede Nubuck full piece of reversed leather thinner piece of reversed leather sanded down smooth leather resistant fragile medium fine and soft nap fine and soft nap smooth / no nap 5

3 MAKING A SHOE CARE KIT The quality of the tools and products you use to care for your leather shoes is the key to success. This chapter lists the tools and products you need to care for your leather or suede shoes, from simple dusting to stain removal. 3.1 SELECTING PRODUCTS Product What it does What to look for Shoe cleansing milk cleans and nourishes the leather of your shoes Select a high-quality one with a beeswax base to nourish the leather. Shoe cream nourishes leather durably Select a high-quality one without silicone to let the leather breathe. Shoe polish gives your leather shoes extra shine Select one with a beeswax base and natural pigments for a natural and shiny effect. Shoe grease Suede cleaning foam hydrates the welt yarn and waterproofs outsoles removes almost any type of stains For top quality, prefer shoe grease that contains mink oil. Prefer a version in spray. Suede renovator cleans, revives color and waterproofs suede Select your suede renovator one tone darker than your shoe color. Household products clean and remove stains Make sure you have white vinegar, powder clay, household soap at home. 6

3.2 SELECTING TOOLS Tool What it does What to look for Apron Shoe trees Dust brush Shine brush Chamois cloth Polishing brush Polishing glove Welt brush Crepe rubber brush Brass brush prevents cream and polish stains on your clothes keeps your leather shoes in shape, helps you polish creases and absorb humidity helps you remove dirt and dust from your shoes gives a smooth and shiny appearance to your shoes helps you rub cream or polish in leather without making any marks helps you polish your leather shoes and keep your hands clean gives an extra luster to leather, as if brand-new allows you to clean and nourish the welt of the shoe removes the luster on suede shoes and straightens the nap of the suede harder alternative to the crepe rubber brush For full protection, prefer a bib apro Select raw wood ones as they have an excellent absorption capacity. For best results select one with soft synthetic hair. Select one with horsehair for best results. Select a 100%-cotton chamois cloth for a smoother effect. Select a polishing brush with horsehair for a shinier effect. Select a 100% lambswool polishing glove for the shiniest effect. Prefer a narrow head brush. Prefer soft rubber that is easier to handle. Prefer soft bristles that does not damage the nap. Suede stain eraser removes marks on your suede shoes Make sure the grain is not too abrasive. 7

Tool What it does What to look for Rubber galoshes Shoehorn White cotton cloth protect your shoes on rainy days helps you put on your shoes without damaging the counter wipes, absorbs and protects For full protection, select a close-fitting model. Horn, wooden or stainless steel shoehorns are the best on the market. Old sheets are perfect for reuse. You can shop quality shoe care products and tools on our partner website http://www.monsieurchaussure.com/en/ 3.3 SPOTTING THE RIGHT BRUSH Many different brushes are necessary to make a proper shoe care. The graphics below helps you differentiate the various types of shoe brushes that are described above: 8

4 CARING FOR LEATHER SHOES 4.1 SETTING A FREQUENCY OF CARE The table below describes the basic rules of care frequency for smooth leather shoes. Frequency of use two to three times a week less than two times a week less than four times a month Frequency of care complete care every two weeks complete care every month complete care every two months If you apply shoe polish every time you wear your shoes, clean them with shoe cream every other polishing to remove old polish. 4.2 PREPARING YOUR LEATHER SHOES To prepare your shoes for a complete shoe care, you need: an apron a protective cloth a pair of shoe trees Proceed as follows: 1. Wear the apro 2. Protect your work area with a piece of cloth. 3. Remove laces to keep them clean and prevent clogs in the eyelets. 4. Put the shoe trees into your shoes to maintain their shape. 4.3 DUSTING YOUR LEATHER SHOES To dust your shoes, you need: a dust brush a wet sponge (optional) 9

Before you apply any product, rub your shoes vigorously with the dust brush to remove dust, dirt or mud. If you neglect this step, dust may remain on the surface and blend with the cream. This may result in scratches on the leather and less luster. If your shoes are too dirty, use a wet sponge to remove dry mud. 4.4 CLEANING YOUR LEATHER SHOES If your leather shoes have stains, go to section 4.9. To clean the leather, you need: cleansing milk a chamois cloth a clean piece of white cloth Proceed as follows: 1. Wrap the chamois cloth around your index and middle finger. 2. Spread a pat of product on the entire upper including the tongue. 3. Rub vigorously in concentric circles. 4. To reduce creases, insist on them lengthwise. 5. Rub a pat of product on the sides of the heel and sole. After the procedure, rub a piece of white clean cloth on your shoes. If the cloth remains clean, your shoes are ready for the next procedure. If not, start the cleaning procedure again until you remove the remaining old polish. 4.5 NOURISHING YOUR LEATHER SHOES To nourish the leather, you need: shoe cream a chamois cloth a shine brush 10

Proceed as follows: 1. Select a color of cream similar to the leather color. 2. Wrap the chamois cloth around your index without a pleat. 3. Apply small pats of shoe cream on the entire upper including the tongue. 4. Rub vigorously in concentric circles until small shiny circles appear. 5. Insist on the toe and quarters where there are more shock marks. 6. Rub a pat of shoe cream on the side of the outsole and heel. 7. Let dry for 10 minutes minimum. 8. To give a shiny effect, brush vigorously with the shine brush. CAUTION: Use a different shine brush for each cream color or it may result in color transfer. 4.6 NOURISHING THE WELT If your shoes do not have a welt, go to section 4.7. This step applies to leather shoes with a Goodyear or Norwegian welt. When the welt yarn becomes too dry, it may break. As a result, the sole and the upper may split. For this reason you must nourish the welt yarn every other shoe care you make. To nourish the welt, you need: shoe grease a welt brush Proceed as follows: 1. Tap the welt brush in the shoe grease. 2. Apply around the welt and brush. 3. Insist on the front area of the welt where shocks happe 4. Make sure there is no excess of grease remaining on the welt. 4.7 NOURISHING LEATHER OUTSOLES Leather outsoles deserve full attention just like the upper of your shoes. Make sure you nourish your shoes outsoles once a month to keep the leather supple. To nourish leather outsoles, you need: transparent shoe cream or shoe grease a piece cloth a clean piece of white cloth 11

Proceed as follows: 1. Rub a pat of clear shoe cream on the outsole. 2. Rub a pat of shoe cream on the welt edge and heel. 3. Let dry for 10 minutes on the side. What you must see is a soft and shiny outsole. If it feels wet, let your shoes dry on the side away from a direct source of heat. NOTE: Shoe grease can replace shoe cream when the outsoles are too dry. 4.8 POLISHING YOUR LEATHER SHOES If you want to add extra shine to your leather shoes and waterproof them, you may use shoe polish. Unlike shoe cream, shoe polish does not nourish the leather because it remains on the surface. You must only use shoe polish as a complement of shoe cream. Always select a color of shoe polish similar to the leather color. To polish the leather, you need: shoe polish a polishing brush or a chamois cloth a shine brush a lambswool glove Proceed as follows: 1. Pat the polishing brush or the chamois cloth in the shoe polish. 2. Apply on the entire surface of the upper. 3. Let dry for 10 minutes. 4. Polish vigorously with the shine brush. 5. Rub vigorously with the lambswool glove to give extra shine. CAUTION: Do not use shoe polish that contains silicon as it suffocates the leather and may result in cracks. 12

4.9 REMOVING A STAIN There are many chemical stain removers on the market. However, there are cheaper and ecological alternatives that work very well on grease stains et salt stains. 4.9.1 Removing a grease stain To remove a grease stain, you need: powder clay a dust brush Proceed as follows: 1. Apply absorbent powder clay such as Terre de Sommières. 2. Let dry for 24 hours. 3. Brush with the dust brush. If the operation fails, take your shoes to your cobbler for a professional advice. 4.9.2 Removing a salt stain To remove a salt stain, you need: white vinegar a clean piece of white cloth Proceed as follows: 1. Apply white vinegar on the surface of the stai 2. Rub for a few seconds. 3. Remove excess product with a clean cloth. 4. Start or resume your care routine (refer to sections 4.2 to 4.5). If the operation fails, take your shoes to your cobbler for a professional advice. 13

5 CARING FOR SUEDE SHOES An average suede shoe care takes between 10 and 20 minutes. That time depends on which steps you want to complete. 5.1 PREPARING YOUR SUEDE SHOES Refer to section 4.2 5.2 DUSTING YOUR SUEDE SHOES To dust your suede shoes, you need: a dust brush Before you apply any product, rub your shoes vigorously with the dust brush to remove dust, dirt or mud. If you neglect this step, dust may remain on the surface and blend with the cream. 5.3 REMOVING THE LUSTER The nap of suede shoes compresses over time. The toe and quarters become darker and shiny due to repetitive frictio This luster is unwanted on suede shoes, as opposed to smooth leather shoes. To remove the luster, you need: a crepe rubber brush or a brass brush Brush vigorously with the crepe rubber brush until the surface has a peach skin aspect agai 5.4 CLEANING YOUR SUEDE SHOES If your suede shoes have stains, go to section 5.8. It is important that you clean your suede shoes to revive the color. To clean suede, you need: suede cleaning foam a clean dust brush 14

Proceed as follows: 1. Spray the product on the entire upper. 2. Leave to work for five minutes. 3. Brush your shoes with a clean dust brush. 4. Let your shoes dry away from a direct source of heat. 5.5 NOURISHING THE WELT Refer to section 4.6. 5.6 NOURISHING LEATHER OUTSOLES Refer to section 4.7. 5.7 WATERPROOFING YOUR SUEDE SHOES Suede is a delicate material that water can damage. You must waterproof you shoes with a suede renovator spray to protect them from water. This product exists in different colors. Make sure you select your suede renovator one tone darker than the color of your shoes. If the color you want does not exist, select a transparent suede renovator. To waterproof suede, you need: a suede renovator spray a crepe rubber brush Proceed as follows: 1. Spray 12 inches away from your suede shoes on the entire upper. 2. Let the suede dry for 15 minutes. 3. Brush with a crepe rubber brush to soften the suede. 4. Wait until your shoes are dry to wear them. To know if you successfully waterproofed your suede shoes, put a drop of clean water on your suede shoes. The drop must remain on the surface. If it penetrates the suede, start the waterproofing procedure agai 15

5.8 REMOVING A STAIN 5.8.1 Removing a small stain To remove a small stain, you need: a suede stain eraser a crepe rubber brush Proceed as follows: 1. Rub the stain with a suede stain eraser. 2. Brush with a crepe rubber brush. If the operation fails, take your shoes to your cobbler for a professional advice. 5.8.2 Removing a grease stain To remove a grease stain, you need: powder clay a dust brush Proceed as follows: 1. Apply powder clay such a Terre de Sommières on the stain as soon as possible. 2. Leave to work for a 24 hours. 3. Brush vigorously with the dust brush. If the operation fails, take your shoes to your cobbler for a professional advice. 16

5.8.3 Removing dirty marks To remove dirty marks, you need: saddle or household soap water a soft toothbrush a piece of clean cloth a crepe rubber brush Proceed as follows: 1. Rub the upper with saddle or household soap and water. 2. Brush with a soft toothbrush. 3. Use the toothbrush and water to remove the foam. 4. Use a clean cloth to absorb water. 5. Let dry away from a direct source of heat. 6. Brush with a crepe rubber brush to soften the suede. If the operation fails, take your shoes to your cobbler for a professional advice. 17

6 PROTECTING LEATHER OUTSOLES If you want to extend the life of your leather outsoles, you can ask your cobbler to install a protective material. 6.1 PROTECTING THE OUTSOLES WITH STEEL SHOE TAPS The natural walking action puts a lot of strain on the tip of the outsole. Ask a professional cobbler or shoemaker to install steel toe taps for a better protection against shocks. Make sure you select flat, embedded shoe taps with brass or stainless-steel screws that do not rust. Avoid the thicker ones as they change the arch of the foot. CAUTION: Do not try to install steel shoe taps yourself as it may result in minor injuries and damage to your shoes. 6.2 PROTECTING THE OUTSOLES WITH RUBBER PADS Rubber pads protect the entire surface of your leather outsoles. They are a good alternative for rain protectio Rubber pads exist in different thickness. Make sure you select the thinnest for better flexibility. Ask a professional cobbler or shoemaker to install rubber pads for a better protection against water and shocks. CAUTION: Do not try to install rubber pads yourself as it may cause damage to your shoes. 6.3 PROTECTING THE OUTSOLES FROM WATER If you wear your leather shoes in frequent wet conditions, you must wear a pair of rubber galoshes over your leather shoes. Galoshes protect leather outsoles and uppers from rain and snow. If your leather outsoles are wet, put a shoe tree into your shoes. Let them dry on the side, away from a direct source of heat. CAUTION: Do not put wet leather shoes to dry next to a direct heat source as it may cause cracks to the leather. 18

Glossary B brass brush small brush with brass hair used to remove luster from suede C chamois cloth soft and absorbent cloth made from 100% brushed cotton corrected grain leather from which the grain layer has been partially removed by buffing and upon which a new surface has been built by various finishes counter reinforcement at the rear of the shoe that supports the back of the foot and holds the heel in place crease line that appear on the vamp of the shoe due to the natural walking action of the foot crepe rubber brush brush fitted with wavy bands of rubber, used to remove luster from suede D dust brush brush with hard synthetic hair used to remove dust and dirt from shoes F full grain leather leather that contains the entire grain layer, without any removal of the surface G galosh type of rubber boot that is slipped over shoes to keep them from getting muddy or wet Goodyear welt strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that runs along the perimeter of a shoe outsole I leather material made from the skin of an animal by tanning or a similar process N nap distinctive soft and airy covering on suede Norwegian welt type of welt where the upper is fixed to the sole by means of an assembly insole, using a welt and two visible lines of stitches: welt stitching on the upper and lock stitching on the sole O outsole exposed part of the sole that is contact with the ground 19

P polishing brush brush with handle and round head used to apply shoe polish polishing glove leather glove with a thick sheepskin polishing surface used to warm up polish for optimum buffing and shining powder clay natural clay powder that is highly absorbent Q quarter sides and back of the foot behind the vamp R reverse calf see suede rubber pad piece of rubber pad that is fitted to leather outsoles to protect them from humidity and shocks S shine brush brush that is used to make leather shine after a cream or polish care shoe cream cream that adds moisture to shoes and a layer to the top of shoes which polishes and adds color shoe grease grease that softens and waterproofs the leather while letting it breathe shoe polish waxy paste used to polish, shine, and waterproof leather shoes to extend their life and improve their appearance shoe tree foot-shaped device used for inserting in a shoe to preserve its shape shoehorn curved piece of horn, wood, or metal used to put on a shoe smooth leather leather with sanded surface on which a finish is applied to give a smooth feel split-suede type of leather made with the remnants of the skin once the top layer has been removed to make top-grain leather steel toe tap thin piece of metal fitted to leather soles with brass screws that helps prolong the life of outer soles 20

suede type of leather with a napped finish, made from the underside of the animal skin suede stain eraser lightly abrasive eraser used to clean and remove stains from small to medium-sized areas of suede T tan v. to convert skin into leather by treatment with an infusion of tannin-rich bark or other agent of similar effect toe forepart of the shoe upper the part of a shoe above the sole, comprising the quarter, vamp, counter, and lining V vamp front part of the shoe, starting behind the toe, extending around the eyelets and tongue and towards back part of the shoe W waterproof v. to cover or treat with a solution to prevent permeation by water tongue piece of leather underneath the laces U 21

Index A applying powder clay 13, 16 shoe cream 9, 11 shoe grease 11 shoe polish 9, 12 white vinegar 13 B brass brush selecting 7 using 14 C chamois cloth selecting 7 using 10, 11, 12 cleaning leather shoes 9, 10 suede shoes 14 creases reducing 4, 10 polishing 7 crepe rubber brush selecting 7 using 14, 17, 18 D dirt removing 4, 10, 14 dirty marks removing 17 dust brush selecting 7 using 4, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16 dusting leather shoes 9 suede shoes 14 F frequency of care setting 9 grease stain removing 13, 16 L leather outsoles nourishing 11, 15 protecting 18 leather shoes cleaning 9,10 dusting 9 nourishing 10 polishing 12 preparing 9 luster removing 14 M making shoe care kit 6 N nourishing leather outsoles 11, 15 leather shoes 10 welt 11 P polish removing 9 applying 9, 12 22

polishing leather shoes 12 creases 7 polishing brush selecting 7 using 12 polishing glove selecting 7 using 12 powder clay applying 13,16 preparing leather shoes 9 suede shoes 14 protecting leather outsoles 18 R reducing creases 4, 10 removing dirt 4, 10, 14 dirty marks 17 grease stain 13, 16 luster 14 salt stain 13 small stains 16 polish 9 rubber galoshes selecting 7 using 18 S setting frequency of care 9 salt stain removing 13 selecting brass brush 7 chamois cloth 7 crepe rubber brush 7 dust brush 7 polishing brush 7 polishing glove 7 rubber galoshes 7 shine brush 7 shoe cleansing milk 6 shoe cream 6 shoe grease 6 shoe polish 6 shoe trees 7 shoehorn 7 smooth leather shoes 5 suede cleaning foam 6 suede renovator 6 suede shoes 5 suede stain eraser 7 welt brush 7 shine brush selecting 7 using 10, 11, 12 shoe care kit making 6 shoe cleansing milk applying 10 selecting 6 shoe cream applying 9, 11 selecting 6 shoe grease applying 11 selecting 6 shoehorn selecting 7 using 4 shoe polish applying 9,12 selecting 6 23

shoe tree selecting 7 using 4, 9, 18 small stain removing 13 smooth leather shoes selecting 5 suede cleaning foam applying 14 selecting 6 suede renovator applying 15 selecting 6 suede shoes cleaning 14 dusting 14 preparing 14 selecting 5 waterproofing 15 suede stain eraser selecting 7 using 16 U using W brass brush 14 chamois cloth 10, 11, 12 crepe rubber brush 14, 17, 18 dust brush 4, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15, 16 polishing brush 12 polishing glove 12 rubber galoshes 18 shine brush 10, 11, 12 shoe horn 4 shoe tree 4, 9, 18 suede stain eraser 16 waterproofing suede shoes 15 welt nourishing 11 welt brush selecting 7 using 11 white vinegar applying 13 24