Table of contents Product specifications Step 1 : Surface preparation Installation guide Step 2-3-4 : Method of installation Step 5 : Layout of tiles Step 6 : Installation of tiles on the side of the structure DECKO TILE Step 7: Alignment and installation of the first row of tiles Step 8: Installing the mouldings Guide to covering stairs DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT US TO BE GUIDE DURING THE INSTALLATION OF SQUAREDECKO PRODUCTS info@squaredecko.com or 1.888.558.6555
GENERAL INFORMATION PRECAUTIONS and CAUTION : Do not use pressure wash to clean tiles. First row must be well align for proper installation. It is not recommended to install SquareDecko product below temperature of 0 C. DO NOT INSTALL DIRECTLY ON PLYWOOD. Regulated water accumulation on the surface before to cover it with product. Do not put a waterproof membrane on concrete. 0 and more Required tools : Level, square, measuring tape, circular saw, rotary hammer, countersink, hammer, and chalk line Note: The tiles can be cut and screwed with conventional tools as easily as wood. Dimension : A tile covers a surface of 16 1/4" x 16 1/4" (413 mm x 413 mm) or 1.83 ft 2 (.17m 2 ). Example: It takes 54.6 tiles to cover a surface of 100 ft 2 (9.3 m 2 ). One hundred (100) tiles are needed to cover 183 ft 2 (17 m 2 ) Milled screws 1 ¼ '' #8 for treated wood to screw on wooden deck. Milled screws 1 1/4'' x 3/16 tapcon or equivalent to screw in concrete. Milled screws 5/8 # 8 galvanized for mouldings 16 ¼ 16 ¼ Under tile
SURFACE PREPARATION Step 1 : Ramp Remove any ramp model screwed to the floor of the surface. For ramp models fixed to the structure, the tiles will be cut to the contour of the ramp posts. When the ramp comprises many balusters affixed to the outside of the floor structure, set the tiles leaving a ¼" (6mm) space between the tiles and the balusters to allow for installing the finishing L mouldings. Step 2 : Surface preparation Cut off excess flooring to match the contours of the existing floor of the structure. "Nosing" style mouldings will complete the finish after the tiles have been installed. Step 3 : Leveling the floor Screw down all protruding planks to obtain a level surface. If necessary, split the planks lengthwise and screw them into place, if they are not sufficiently tight against the structure. For concrete: Make sure the surface has a slope for water drainage. If there is a water accumulation, it must be set either through a hole in concrete or groove to the edge of the structure (to allow water to flow). Do not resurface with a layer of repair concrete mix (this risk will crumble when screwed into it).
TILE INSTALLATION Step 4 : Method of installation Install the first row of tiles perpendicular to the wall of the building, beginning on the left. After completing the first row, install the next row to the right of the first, and continue in this manner, moving from left to right. The tongue and groove design of the tiles requires that this method be followed. Step 5 : Layout of the tiles Determine the exact centre of the surface you plan to cover. Draw two perpendicular chalk lines meeting at the centre of the surface in such a way as to ensure an equal and symmetrical layout of tiles. Tapcon screw for concrete (in this case) Note : other methods can be used to customer choice. If, while laying down the tiles to either side of the chalk line, you are left with contour tiles of a width of less than 8" (20 cm), move the central axis to either side by 8" (20 cm). This will leave you with larger contour tiles. This method is used by ceramic [tile] setting specialists. If you install a mosaic, you must centre it at chosen spot (at the centre, in line with a door or other object, etc.). Then, install tiles starting from the centre position of the mosaic. Use only No. 8 (1 ¼ ) wood screws with ceramic coating (screws for pressure-treated wood). For the position of the screws, see picture. See picture for position of screws. The head of the screws must be level with the surface of the tile and not stick out. The finishing mouldings will later hide any visible screws. For corners, place tiles on top of each other as shown on the picture.
TILE INSTALLATION Step 6: Installation of tiles on the side of the structure (Facultative) Tiles must be set down from left to right. To see how to cut the tile, see positioning of the tile on the picture. Always cut the lower end of the tile and keep the upper part. The tile layout as described above indicates how to align each tile to either side of the structure to be covered. We thus know the width of the first tile to be installed. Cut the left side of the first tile and keep the right side. For the first and all those following, cut all tiles to width equal to the underside of the structure and level with the floor to be covered. You are now ready to screw the first tile onto the edge of the structure. Embout mâle Step 7: Alignment and installation of the first row of tiles Note: Use No. 8 (1 ½ ) wood screws with ceramic coating (screws for pressure-treated wood). Temporarily install a straight edge on the floor to align the first row of tiles as determined in Step 4. This will ensure the proper alignment of the tiles. Note : Important step to keep tiles alignment up to the end. Be careful! For the tile to be correctly set, you must move the ruler (straight edge) 1/2" (12.5 mm) to the right to adjust for the tongue (tongue & groove) of the tile.
TILE INSTALLATION 2 e 1 er Space of ¼ to insert Trim moulding House Cut the first tile to obtain the desired symmetry and begin setting. The tiles must cover the entire surface precisely up to the edge of the floor, except if you intend to install a ramp with balusters running along the contours of the structure. In which case, leave a 1/4" (6mm) space between the edge of the floor and the edge of the tiles to allow for the installation of the finishing L moulding. If you have installed tiles on the side of the structure, the floor tiles must cover the top edge of the side tiles, except if you intend to install a ramp with balusters running along the contours of the structure. In which case, leave a 1/4" (6mm) space between the outside edge of the floor tiles to allow for the installation of the finishing «L» moulding. If you have covered the side of the structure with tiles, the floor tiles must also perfectly cover the contour tile edges. It naturally follows that the screws for the tiles on the outer edge of the floor will be screwed into the top of the tiles covering the side of the structure. In order to do this, use 1 ½" no. 8 ceramic-coated flat-headed wood screws. To install tiles along a wall, leave a 1/4" (6mm) space between the tile and the wall. Fix in place using two screws placed at no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) from the edge. To finish, install L-mouldings to hide visible screws. Screw this tile starting with the initial hole in the tile. Two screws per side are required for all the peripheral tiles of the structure to ensure maintaining the correct alignment of the first row when the straightedged ruler screwed to the floor is removed. When not placing the screws in the existing pattern, make holes using a drill. The head of the screws must be level with the tile surface and not stick out. The screws must not move under the pressure exercised by the installation of the second row. When installation of the first row is complete, remove the straight-edge ruler. You can then install the second and subsequent row of tiles using the method described in Stage 4.
MOULDING INSTALLATION Each tile has a spacer ensuring the proper spacing between the tiles even with variations in temperature. Do not force fit the tiles during installation. The attachment-clips also ensure proper distance between tiles. Step 8 : Installing the mouldings Screw the mouldings on using number 8 - ½» galvanized wood screws in pre-drilled holes. This will prevent any expansion and retraction. Install the mouldings nosing first, followed by the L mouldings. The most aesthetic method of installing the L mouldings is by using the nosing method. After having screwed in all the mouldings, insert the screw cover with a hammer. For an exact fitting of the screw covers, first trace a line on the cover with an exacto knife, and then finish the cut using a chisel or scissors. For obstacles such as ramps, posts, columns, etc, always calculate a ¼ distance (6mm) between the tiles and any obstacle for the installation of the L mouldings. The Nosing moulding produces a professional finish along walls and staircases.
COVERING STAIRCASES (STEPS AND RISERS) (To be done before having completed covering the floor) Step 1: Covering the Stringer (optional) If you decide to cover the stringer, you must do so before covering the steps and risers. Cut any part of the steps and risers that stick out beyond the stringer on either side. It is highly recommended to cover all surfaces with a damp-proof Resisto base membrane. For each stringer to be covered, always start setting the tiles from left to right when facing the stringer. Cut the tongue of the part of the tile that is of equal size to the underside of the stringer. Cut the tiles so that they are level with the front of the riser and the surface of the step while positioning the bottom of the tile level with the underside of the stringer (tongue removed). Screw in the tiles following the contour of each cut tile at a maximum distance of 1/2" (12.5mm) from the edge. Use two screws per side. The finishing mouldings will cover all the screws, leaving none visible. Step 2: Staircase Risers and Steps Cut any part of the steps and risers that stick out beyond the stringer on either side (see photos of preceding Step). It is highly recommended to cover all step and riser surfaces up to the stringer with a damp-proof Resisto base membrane. Begin setting tiles for the first riser at the bottom of the stairs. To do so, cut the tongue off the bottom of the tile (See picture at Step 9).
COVERING STAIRS (suite) Then cut the tile to the height between the bottom of the first riser and the topside of the first step. To determine the length of the tiles, align the tiles with those already set on the floor. The end result will reveal a perfect alignment of the staircase tiles with those of the floor. Set the first and then the remaining riser tiles using two (2) screws per tile placing then at no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) from the edge. The finishing moulding will cover all the visible screws. To cover the first step at the bottom of the stairs, use the remaining tiles used for the first riser. This approach can be used for all the steps. Cut the tile so that it still has the manufacturer s hole and so that it covers the first step and the tile installed on the riser. Use this approach for all steps. Always set tiles from left to right for all surfaces of the project. Never add screws at the junction of the step and the riser, as there is no the finishing mouldings at this spot. The manufacturer s joint does the job. Step 3 : Installing mouldings Screw the mouldings on using number 8 ¼ galvanized wood screws in pre-drilled holes. This will prevent any expansion and retraction. Install the mouldings nosing first, followed by the L mouldings. The most aesthetic method of installing the L mouldings is by using the nosing method. After having screwed in all the mouldings, insert the screw cover with a hammer. For an exact fitting of the screw covers, first trace a line on the cover with an exacto knife, and then finish the cut using a chisel or scissors.
DAMP-PROOF MEMBRANE INSTALLATION NOTE: Optional: Installation of two layers of a dampproof membrane on the existing surface Important: It s required to cover plywood or fiberglass surface. Membrane installation :We recommend the use of Resisto brand "Basic Damp-Proof Membrane"(www.resisto.ca). For proper installation of selfadhesive damp-proof membrane, follow the instructions of the manufacturer found: http://www.resisto.ca/openfile.aspx?id=214 Choice of dimensions: 1m X 10m or 1m X 20m. ( The equivalent for damp-proof membrane is Damp-proof membrane 0.060 from BlueSkin ) A SLOPE OF 1 EACH 8 feet IS REQUIRED TO DRAIN THE WATER EASILY. There are three (3) available options: A- When covering the surface of the floor but not the sides: Install the self-adhesive membrane to cover the entire surface of the floor right up to its outer edges. Do not fold the membrane over the edges. Where the membrane abuts a wall, ramp post or balusters, apply an elastomer sealer to waterproof the joint between the membrane and the wall, post or balusters. B-When covering the side of the structure with the same tiles as the floor: Install the self-adhesive membrane to cover the entire surface of the floor, folding the membrane over the edges but not beyond the underside of the flooring. Where the membrane abuts a wall, ramp post or balusters, apply an elastomer sealer to waterproof the joint between the membrane and the wall, post or balusters. 1 over aluminium C-When covering the surface of the floor with tiles and the side of the structure with aluminum siding: Cover the structure sides with the aluminum up to the upper edge of the flooring.install the self-adhesive membrane to cover the entire surface of the floor and let 1 over the aluminum frontage. Where the membrane abuts a wall, ramp post or balusters, apply an elastomer sealer to waterproof the joint between the membrane and the wall, post or balusters.