The True Nature and Value of Leather in Footwear from the LeatherNaturally! programme www.leathernaturally.org 1
Contents The Value of Leather... 3 The Benefits of Leather... 4 The Performance of Leather... 5 The Process of Making Leather... 6 The Variety of Leather... 9 The Finishes of Leather... 10 The Care of Leather.... 11 The Future of Leather... 12 The Ecology of Leather... 13 The LeatherNaturally! Programme... 14 www.leathernaturally.org 2
The Value of Leather Since its inception many centuries ago, consumers throughout the globe have held leather in high esteem. Man s high regard for leather is due, in no small part, to a unique combination of desirable properties: prestige, durability, eye appeal, and unsurpassed ecological properties, all of which are some of the many qualities inherent in this valuable product of nature. Leather is an extraordinary example of a product that has enjoyed universal appeal throughout the ages. It is a timeless fashion and luxury and destined to continue for years to come. Just the sound of the word leather immediately soothes the mind and satisfies the senses. Leather has a feel that arouses a sense of beauty. This natural feel is a unique characteristic that no other man-made material can duplicate. Time is paramount in the creation of leather, and the mere knowledge that leather requires craftsmanship serves to make leather even more worthy and desirable to the senses. www.leathernaturally.org 3
The Benefits of Leather Leather offers its owner many advantages. Leather is unique in its ability to offer such a high degree of: beauty: leather looks and feels rich and luxurious. It can be tanned and conditioned to create a wide range of finishes and colors, and to achieve a beautiful balance between form and function. Leather footwear becomes more beautiful and interesting with age; in fact, the more you wear it, the more it acquires a unique character all its own. comfort: leather is comfortable because it "breathes. Its fibrous construction has memory, and shapes to your foot over time. And, a range of textures is achievable, from soft and supple to firm and rugged practicality: leather footwear can offer protection from the elements, and are resistant to rain and snow. They are durable, and not damaged from dry-cleaning. Therefore, they are always a good value, because they are timeless, fashionable classics, which will last a long time. The members of the LeatherNaturally! programme select their animal skins from only the finest sources. These high quality materials, coupled with the most advanced tanning processes available, ensure the beauty, comfort, and versatility of the footwear carrying their logos. www.leathernaturally.org 4
The Performance of Leather Over the centuries, the process of leather making has evolved drastically. While the basic principles of tanning remain constant, new technologies and efficiencies have helped improve the overall process, yields, and basic intrinsic properties of leather. Today, leather not only provides improved aesthetic properties, but due to reengineered craftsmanship techniques, improved manufacturing processes and ongoing technical innovations, substantial improvements have been made on certain physical performance properties: Enhanced physical properties More than ever, shoemakers and consumers alike are putting the physical properties of leather to the test. Increased importance has been put on strength, elongation, flexibility, abrasion and color control. It s through the tanning process and upgraded finishing methods that tanners have been able to provide not only a aesthetically luxurious product, but one that can also provide performance Breathability Leather is unique, in that no other material affords such universal comfort and breathability, no matter the season or conditions. Whether it be a warm summer night or a cold winter morning, leather has the ability to breathe as well as insulate, adapting to the internal and external conditions of the shoe. Moisture Management As part of the tanning process, leathers now have the ability to resist and repel water; water on the outside of the footwear will bead up and roll off. On the other hand, leather is inherently hydrophilic; that is, it possesses a certain affinity for moisture. This moisture absorption quality lubricates the fibers, leading to increased strength and elongation properties As leaders in product research and development, members of LeatherNaturally! continue to provide leathers that can be used in special applications where high performance is required. For example, footwear used in sport, training and other outdoor activities are designed to fully utilize all the spectacular advantages of leather, without any loss of practicality. www.leathernaturally.org 5
The Process of Making Leather The first step of leather making is rawhide preparation. Most hides are received in a cured state to prevent putrefaction and contamination. As a result, the hide will have lost a good deal of its natural moisture. The tanner must now restore the moisture to the hide to allow the subsequent chemical treatments to fulfill their purposes. Soaking The hides are soaked in water to which chemical wetting agents and disinfectants are added. This is done in a tanning drum, which allows the hides to move freely in the soak liquor as they gradually flex and absorb water. Fresh water is added to the tanning drum while overflow is discharged, eradicating excess salt, dirt, and blood from the hides. Unhairing After the soaking process, the hides are now ready to have their hair removed. This chemical process, done in the tanning drum, has three purposes: 1) Destroy the hair or attack the hair root so that it will come free from the hide. 2) Loosen the epidermis, the hard outer layer of the hide covering the grain. 3) Remove certain soluble skin proteins that lay within the hide substance. Bating The bating process is the removal of residual unhairing chemicals and non-leather making substances in the tanning drum. After the unhairing process, the hides are free of hair, swollen and moderately clean. The excess of alkaline materials caused by the lime and sulfide chemicals used in the unhairing process need to be removed from the hides. Deliming is the first bating step, where the hides are cleaned and the ph is to the proper point for receiving the bate. The second step is to add the bate itself, which are enzymes similar to those found in the digestive system of animals. It attacks and destroys most of the remaining undesirable constituents of the hides. Pickling This process is to transform the hides into an acidic environment for tanning. This step is necessary because the chrome-tanning agents in the following step are soluble under alkaline conditions. Just like the previous processes, pickling is done in the tanning drum, where salt and acids are added together with the hides. The pickling operation is a preserving technique in its own right, and hides can be kept in this state for extended periods of time without fear of deterioration. www.leathernaturally.org 6
Tanning This operation, done in the drum, converts the hides into a stable, non-putrescible material. The primary function of any tanning agent is to convert the raw collagen fibers of the hide into a stable product, which is no longer susceptible to putrefaction or rotting. Wringing and Sorting After the tanning operation, the next step is to remove excess moisture and sort for thickness before splitting. This process is called wringing and sorting. Trimming and Siding The hides are then prepared for splitting and shaving by trimming the unusable outskirts of the hide and splitting the hide down the backbone to create two sides for easier handling and processing. Splitting and Shaving In this operation, the thickness is adjusted to that required for the end use. Retanning, coloring, fat liquoring The hides are now put back into drums to perform three operations. Although they have different purposes, they are considered a unit because they follow one another without interruption, requiring a total time of 8-10 hours. Retanning: Impart special end-use properties with other tanning chemicals. Coloring: Color with aniline derived, water-soluble dye. Fatliquoring: Lubricate the fibers for flexibility and softness. Setting out This operation is done to smooth the grain and remove excess moisture. The hides are then in the proper condition for drying. Drying This is to remove all but the equilibrium moisture. Four methods can be used to dry the leather: hanging, toggling, pasting and vacuum drying. The method that is chosen will have a bearing on the final characteristics and yield (or size) of the leather. www.leathernaturally.org 7
Conditioning After the drying operation, the hides are in general too inflexible and unworkable for most shoe upper construction. This process is done to introduce a controlled amount of moisture in the leather. Conditioning is the first step towards achieving the final temper. Staking and dry milling This process mechanically softens the leather. The leather is staked to make it pliable. In combination with the correct fat liquoring treatment, staking governs the final firmness and softness of the leather. Another type of mechanical softening is called dry milling. This is done into a large drum for a specific time until the softness and grain pattern desired are obtained. The longer the leather is milled, the more bulbous the grain appears. Buffing Smooth the grain surface by mechanical sanding Finishing This process is the application of film-forming materials to the grain to provide abrasion and stain resistance and enhance color. Please refer to section The finishes of leather for a more in-depth description on finishing. www.leathernaturally.org 8
The Variety of Leather Leather is an extraordinary product of nature. There are a wide range of animal hides and skins that can be tanned to produce leathers. Each offers unique physical properties for producing a specific set of products. The source from which a tanner selects the raw material has a bearing on the resulting leather. Bovine: Steer hides, cow hides and calfskins are more prevalent, and tend to be larger and are more versatile in their usage than other skins. Bovine hides are used for shoes, automotive and furniture upholstery, garments, leather goods, and sporting goods. Pigskin: Pigskin is a less expensive material that is generally used to produce a suede finish for shoes, gloves and some leather goods. Pig suede can be easily identified by the peccary appearance on the suede surface. Lamb and Sheep: Lambskins and Sheepskins have attributes, which make them ideal and natural for use in clothing, shoe linings, gloves and book bindings. Goat and Kid: Goatskins and kidskins are generally much smaller than lambskins with a coarser grain. Goatskins have limited usage in shoe uppers and linings, as well as gloves and bags. Goatskin can be produced into a suede appearance for clothing. Members of LeatherNaturally! work with major fashion designers around the world to utilize fully the properties of each of these unique raw materials and select the most appropriate hides or skins for the desired finished leathers. www.leathernaturally.org 9
The Finishes of Leather The beauty of leather is that it can be finished to create a multitude of surface types. Aniline: Colored with dyestuffs rather than pigments for a natural look and feel. Semi-Aniline: Very light pigment used in conjunction with dyes. Pigmented: Full coverage obtained with non-translucent pigments for color uniformity. Buffed: Top surface is buffed or sanded to create a fibrous silky feel, commonly called nubuck. Buffing also creates a nap, allowing for the leather to track. Embossed: Printed using a plate or roll to create a desired effect such as reptile, goat grain, pebble, etc. Glazed: Polished to achieve a high luster. Split: The underside layer of the leather, which has been split-off, and is now devoid of natural grain, often called suede. Boarded: Grain effect achieved by folding the grain against grain and mechanically rolling back in forth against each other. Spray Coat: Spray the surface with dyes or pigments to achieve the proper look and color. Roll Coat: Using a full hide or side roller coater rolled on various dyes and or pigments to get desired color and effect. Crunching: Squeezed into tubes, the leather is crunched, either by hand or pistons, to break the grain and show different a color after re-dying or spraying. Upgrading: Using dyes and pigments to help mask small blemishes in the hides, which occur when the animal is on the range. While the above are the most common, there are endless possibilities when it comes to finishing. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and with so many leather users and consumers around the world, it is only just that leather is naturally and endlessly versatile. www.leathernaturally.org 10
The Care of Leather Realize that the leather is skin, both figuratively and literally. You need to take care of your leather footwear almost as lovingly as you might purchase your skin care supplies. To clean your leather shoes, first use soapy water and a soft cloth; wipe away the excess. Then apply saddle soap all over the shoes, both inside and out. Wipe away the excess again. This will effectively clean your leather shoes without damage. It s a tried-and-true combination. After cleaning your shoes, you are ready to apply a polish or wax. Make sure you choose the correct color. The purpose of polishes and waxes is not just to make your shoes look good, but also to protect them from the elements. Water damage and other damage are real threats to leather shoes, so be sure to protect them. If your leather shoes are a bit small, or if they pinch in certain places, they will cause blisters and other foot aches. You can use a shoe stretcher, available at shoes stores and shoe repair shops, to lengthen or widen the shoe to your foot. This is another major advantage of leather shoe over manmade, which do not stretch. If your shoes are out of shape, you can clean them, apply saddle soap and a leather conditioner, and then stuff them with newspaper and leave them for two nights. Alternatively, you can wear them around the house to break them back into shape. This process of softening and shaping is great for the health of your feet, allowing the shoes and your feet to become friends over time. When buying leather shoes it is best to buy two pairs. This way you can alternate wearing them every other day so as to allow for proper moisture dispersion. The shoes will always feel good on your feet and they will hold their proper shape. Further, a good pair of cedar shoe tree will not only help to keep your shoes in shape, but also reduce any lingering odors. Through this method your highly priced leather shoes should last for years and you will always feel good about wearing them. LeatherNaturally! provides complete leather care information to its customers and produces hang tags, specifically for use in the retail environment as sales support materials. www.leathernaturally.org 11
The Future of Leather Making leather is an ancient craft and will always retain the best attributes of an article produced with care and artistry to ensure its unique and individual character is retained. Yet the tanning industry now mixes that craftsmanship and natural touch with extensive research efforts to conceive, test, and develop a continuous stream of new products that push the limits of the attributes of leather with innovations such as stain resistance and flame retardance. This will continue to attract new uses and applications of leather, and underscore its value and versatility to the consumer. Of course, there are synthetic materials now available which can be substituted for leathers. However, while these materials may provide some specific qualities, none offer the authenticity, feel, or richness of a fine leather product. A well-made article in a good leather most often improves over time whereas substitutes will most likely become ugly. And, since the supply of leather is not increasing at the same rate as its demand, the value of high quality leather is expected to continue to increase over time. www.leathernaturally.org 12
The Ecology of Leather LeatherNaturally! members seek to innovatively use fewer natural resources, follow all international restricted substance limits, protect animal welfare, and promote leading corporate social responsibility programs. Sustainable Usage of Natural Resources: Members are investing in innovative projects to reduce the usage of water, energy and output of waste in the leather industry. All members have well maintained wastewater treatment facilities that fully treat water discharge to high standards and often recycle a significant percentage of the water. Comply with International Limits on Restricted Substances: All member leathers are manufactured without the use of chemicals listed on internationally banned substances lists. All member companies tanning leather with chromium salts use environmentally harmless Chrome III in the tanning process. Chrome III is prevalent in the environment and in wellmade leather is safe for all population groups. All dyes and chemicals utilized by member companies are purchased from suppliers with similar quality and environmental standards. All chemicals and leathers are tested to determine that there is no risk to consumer s health or safety. Protect Animal Welfare: Animal skins used by member companies are usually the byproducts of animals bred for other purposes such as meat. Instead of wasting the hide, it is turned into a valuable leather product. Promote Social Corporate Responsibility Programs: Members follow governmental and international safety protocols to ensure the protection and well being of their employees in the workplace. LeatherNaturally! assumes its role and responsibility for protecting the health of its workers, customers, the international community and the well-being of the planet. www.leathernaturally.org 13
The LeatherNaturally! Programme LeatherNaturally! was established in 2011 with the specific goals of: Creating awareness of the leather industry, and its contribution to the fashion, apparel, leathergoods, furniture, footwear and retail industries. Improving the understanding and appreciation of leather tanning, by educating both professionals and consumers on the value and advantages of leather garments. Establishing new lines of communications among retailers, designers, and manufacturers, to foster new levels of mutual respect and synergy, with the objective of creating better, more desirable products at better price points. Supporting designers and the retail environnent in the marketplace, through educationallybased merchandising materials and technical information. For further information concerning LeatherNaturally!, please contact: info@leathernaturally.org www.leathernaturally.org 14