THE FOLD LINE PRESENTS TRIBE PATTERNS hello sailor top
contents fabric and pattern pieces 2 layplans 3 Instructions 4-18 glossary 19 sizes 20 Fabric and pattern pieces fabrics We recommend light weight woven fabrics such as lightweight cotton, cotton lawn, linen, rayon, crepe or georgette. The pattern is designed for a person 5 feet 6 inches tall and cup size C. We recommend you make a toile first using a similar fabric to the final version. Additional materials Bias tape Handmade bias tape: fabric piece measuring 70cm wide by 60 cm OR 3.2m of shop bought bias tape. pattern pieces a - front bodice B - back bodice C - front neckline bias tape D - back neck tie E - armhole bias tape F - back neckline bias tape notes All seam allowances are 1.5cm unless otherwise stated. Where finish the seams is referenced, a zigzag or overlock stitch can be used.
LAYPLANS 115CM/45 WIDE FABRIC Sizes 6-24 140CM/55 WIDE FABRIC Sizes 6-16 A foldline B A fold line selvedges fold line 140CM/55 WIDE FABRIC B Sizes 18-24 1 2 A Print out the PDF pattern, checking your printer scale is set to 100% and stick the sheets together. Staystitch the neckline of the front and back bodices inside the 1.5cm seam allowance. selvedge D D F E E C selvedge selvedges fold line Pin and cut out the pattern pieces, snipping 1cm into the side seam notch on both the front and back bodice pieces. Mark the darts on the front bodice. B selvedge D D F E E C selvedge 3-4
3 4 Stitch the front bodice darts and press them down towards the hem. On front bodice, press over the side seam below the notches by 0.5cm and then by another 0.5cm. Stitch from the hem to the notch. Repeat for the back bodice. 5 6 Overlock or zigzag stitch the bodice side seams sepa- rately, from the underarm to the notch. Overlock or zigzag stitch the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice pieces separately. 7-8
7 8 With right sides together and a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch the front and back bodices at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open. With right sides together, pin and stitch the side seams of the bodice pieces from the underarm to the notch. When you join the stitching at the notch, pivot and stitch across diagonally. Press the side seams open. 9 Press over 0.5cm along one long edge of the back neck bias tape. 10 Line up the non-pressed edge of the back neck bias tape with the back neckline of the bodice. Pin in place and stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down to 5mm. 9-10
11 12 13 14 Press the back neck bias tape towards the seam allowance and again, this time enclosing the seam allowance. Carefully edgestitch the back neck bias tape in place, close to the pressed seam. Press over 0.5cm of one long edge of the front neck bias tape. Line up the non-pressed edge of the front neck bias tape with the front neckline of the bodice. Pin in place and stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance. 11-12
15 Trim the ends of the front neck bias tape down to 1.5cm beyond the edge at the back neckline. 16 With right sides together and a 1.5cm seam allowance, stitch a back neck tie piece to either side of the front bias tape. Trim the seam allowances down to 0.5cm. Press open. 17 18 With right sides together, fold the back neck tie pieces in half sides. With a 1cm seam allowance, stitch from the edge of the back neckline, stopping 1.5cm before the end. Pivot at this point and stitch across to finish. Trim the seam allowance of the back neck tie pieces down to 4mm. Also trim off the corner. 13-14
19 20 Using a large needle and double thread, loop through the end of one back neck tie piece. To turn the back neck ties right sides out, first put the needle through the stitching and between both layers of fabric. Thread the needle through to the opposite end. The tricky bit is easing the corner to get started but then it should pull through easily. Trim the seam allowance of the front neck facing down to 0.5cm. Press over the front neck bias tape towards the seam allowance and again, encasing the seam allowance. Carefully edgestitch the front neck bias tape in place. Catch stitch the back neck tie in place where it meets the nodice. 21 Press over 0.5cm along one long edge of the both armhole neck bias tape pieces. Line up the non- pressed edge of the armhole neck bias tape with the armhole. Pin in place and stitch with a 1.5cm seam allowance, leaving a 2cm gap either side of the underarm seam. 22 Line up and pin the armhole neck bias tape at the underarm seam. Using the pin as a guide, trim away the excess fabric leaving a 1.5cm seam allowance. 15-16
23 Stitch the armhole bias tape closed with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5cm. Press open. 24 Stitch the 4cm gap at the underarm seam closed. Repeat steps 29-32 for the other armhole. 25 Trim both armhole seam allowances down to 5mm. Carefully edgestitch the armhole bias tape in place, close to the seam. Repeat for the other armhole. 26 To finish, fold the hem over by 0.5cm and press, then by a further 0.5cm and press. Edge stitch in place. whoop whoop - you ve finished! Welcome to the tribe, share your makes #tribepatterns 17-18
glossary EDGESTITCH - stitching close to a seam on the right side of the fabric. FACING - a piece of fabric on the inside of a garment to neatly finish a raw edge. FINISH SEAMS - to neaten the raw edges of fabric with an overlock or zigzag stitch. HAND STITCH - using a needle and thread to stitch fabric together. INVISIBLE ZIP - a zip that cannot be seen when stitching into a garment. MACHINE TACK - a long stitch length to secure fabric in place before stitching. NOTCHES - small marks on the pattern that help you line up seams. PRESS - using an iron, press each seam after stitching to give a professional finish. PIVOT - stopping your machine to reposition the foot while stitching around a curve or angle. RIGHT SIDE/ WRONG SIDE - the right side is the printed side of the fabric; the wrong side is the back of the fabric. SEAM ALLOWANCE - the area between the raw edge and stitching line of the fabric. SKEIN - several metres of six strands of embroidery thread. SNIP - a short cut with scissors into the fabric. STAY STITCH - a longer stitch length used to stop fabric cut on a curve from stretching. STITCHING IN THE DITCH - from the right side, stitching directly into the channel created by a previously sewn seam. This catches the facing or lining on the inside of the garment. TASSEL - trim made from thread to decorate clothes and accessories. TOPSTITCH - decorative stitching on the right side of the garment. TRIM - cutting down the raw edge of the fabric by a small amount. UNDERSTITCH - stitching on the inside of a garment close to the seam line to hold the fabric in place, for example a facing. sizes chart INCHES Bust waist hip CM Bust waist hip fitted inches Bust waist hip CM Bust waist hip fabric metres 115cm 140cm yards 45 55 6 33 27 38 84 68.5 96.5 34 37 39 86.5 94 99 0.7 0.8 8 34 28 39 86.5 71 98 35 38 40 89 96.5 101.5 0.7 0.8 10 35 29 40 89 73.5 101.5 36 39 41 91.5 99 104 0.7 0.8 12 36 30 41 91.5 76 104 37 40 42 94 101.5 106.5 0.7 0.8 14 38 32 43 96.5 81.5 109 39 42 44 99 106.5 111.5 0.7 0.8 16 40 34 45 101.5 86.5 114.5 41 44 46 104 111.5 117 0.7 0.8 18 42 36 47 107 91.5 119.5 43 46 48 109 117 123 20 44.5 38.5 49.5 113 98 125.5 45.5 48.5 50.5 115.5 123 128.5 22 47.5 41.5 52.5 120.5 105.5 133.5 48.5 51.5 53.5 * you will also need 3.2m of shop bought bias tape or a fabric piece measuring 70cm wide by 60cm long to make handmade bias tape 123 131 136 24 50.5 44.5 55.5 127.5 113 141 51.5 54.5 56.5 131 138.5 143.5 19-20
join the tribe share your makes hello sailor top sizes 6-24 #tribepatterns #hellosailortop designed by the fold line thefoldline.com/tribepatterns Find us on social media @thefoldline Patterns@thefoldline.com THE FOLD LINE is an online sewing community where you can search thousands of sewing patterns, chat in our group, find dressmaking resources and reading pattern reviews. The Fold Line 2018. All rights reserved. Photos, text, layout and illustrations in this booklet are copyright of The Fold Line. The sewing pattern and booklet were designed by The Fold Line. DESIGNED in the UK. For personal home use only. No part of this booklet or sewing pattern may be reproduced, sold or given away for free.