SWEETHEARTS N STRAWBERRIES. by Cindy Mann Vitale

SWEETHEARTS N STRAWBERRIES by Cindy Mann Vitale EXCLUSIVE

Sweethearts N Strawberries by Cindy Mann Vitale PALETTE DecoArt Americana Acrylics Alizarin Crimson #13179 Arbor Green* Avocado #13052 Avocado Dip* Baby Pink #13031 Banana Cream #13545 Blue Chiffon #13193 Blue Haven #13553 Boysenberry Pink #13029 Burnt Umber #13064 Cranberry Wine #13112 Deep Periwinkle* Grey Sky #13111 Grape Juice #13236 Honey Brown #13163 Lamp Black #13067 Leaf Green #13051 Lemonade* Light Cinnamon #13114 Light Mocha #13241 Mink Tan* Mocha #13060 Oyster Beige #13549 Pansy Lavender #13154 Pink Chiffon #13192 Peony Pink #13215 Sapphire #13099 Sea Glass #13520 Soft Sage #13207 Titanium (Snow) White #13001 Warm White #13239 Wisteria #13211 *discontinued by DecoArt SURFACES Scroll Hanger #63242 Teacup Cutout #63240 12" Tombstone Plaque #63228 MISC. SUPPLIES Americana Wood Filler* Americana Multi Purpose Sealer #87392 Americana Weathered Wood #84146 Americana Dura Clear Matte Varnish #87395 Americana Wood Glue* Americana Acrylic Sealer Finisher Matte Spray #70836 DecoArt DecoMagic Brush Cleaner #84160 Pro Art Tracing Roll #83175 Gray Graphite Paper 18x36 #70141 Brush Basin #70174 Permanent black ink pen,.005 point. Wet palette, or plain white coated paper plates Pencil, eraser, ruler Paper towels *discontinued by DecoArt BRUSHES Papillon Brushes Round size 1 #20157 Round size 2 #20158 Round size 3 #20159 Round size 5 #20162 Shader size 12 #20131 Glaze Wash size 1 inch #20103 PREPARATION The Scroll Hanger Fill the holes with the Americana Wood Filler. Allow to dry, and sand lightly to smooth the surface. Tombstone Plaque Base coat with Titanium White. Allow to dry, then transfer the design. Teacup Cut-out Brush on an even coat of the Multi-purpose sealer and allow to dry. TRANSFERRING THE DESIGN I prefer to transfer the larger designs onto the surface and paint the background in, and around, the design. After the background base coating, and shading, have dried, I transfer the smaller designs elements, if needed. The entire background can be based in before transferring the design if you prefer. Depending on the base coat color, an underpainting of white may be needed, for the best results. Honestly, I try to avoid this step, if possible. Some details are added with the pen after the base coating, shading, and final finishing steps have been completed. Transferring may not be necessary if they can be drawn on freehand. Since the teacup will be glued onto the plaque, transfer the outline of the cup onto the board. As you begin the painting process, paint inside the transfer 2 artistsclub.com

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lines to provide an allowance for positioning the teacup cut-out during assembly. The Tombstone Plaque THE HARLEQUIN DESIGN: Transfer the black and ivory diamond shapes. THE ANGEL FIGURINE: Transfer the entire outline of the angel figurine, including the hair, wings including the black edging, outline of face and neck, collar, heart on the collar, dress including the sleeve and cuff details, hands, basket and handle. Omit the following details: The facial details, rose design on the wings, polka dots around the heart, lace picot edging on the collar, stripes on the dress, posies and leaves in the basket, and basket weave design. THE URN WITH ROSE WREATH AND POLKA DOT BOW: Transfer the outline of the urn, the bow, and the wreath stand (which is the green stick under the bow) Omit the following: The rose heart shaped wreath (this will be transferred when the Angel dress is completed) the interior details on the urn, and the polka dots on the bow. THE CUPCAKE: Transfer the outline of the cherry, the icing, and the cupcake holder. Omit the following: The stem, leaves, highlight on the cherry, interior details on the icing area, and the polka dots on the cupcake holder. THE STRAWBERRIES: Transfer the outline of the strawberries, including the glaze. Omit the following: The stems, leaves, sprinkles on the glaze, and seeds on the strawberries. THE BOUQUET AND BLACK AND WHITE STRIPED BOW: Transfer the outline of the blue daisies, including the petals and centers, rose and rosebud, purple posies, including the centers, and the leaves. Transfer the outline and the stripes on the bow. Omit the following: The brown dots on the blue daisies, the black dots and yellow stamen on the purple posies, the petal detailing on the rose and rosebud, the interior line detailing on the leaves, and the stems. The Teacup THE OUTLINE: The outline of the lace edging at the top rim and base of the cup, outline of the rose, green band on the bowl of the cup. THE ANGEL: Outline of the hair, wings including the black edging, outline of face, neck, and collar. TEACUP HANDLE: Transfer the black and white striped areas, the two pink bands, the two green areas (with the polka dots) and the open rose. Omit the following: The interior details of the lace design, and all of the dots, along the top rim of the cup and at the base. The interior details of the open rose, the leaves and stem, the blue dot design. THE ANGEL: The facial details of the angel, the posy design on the wings, the heart shape, brush strokes and dots on the collar. THE HANDLE: The polka dots on the green background areas, the leaves on the white background, and the interior details of the open rose. PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS Note: The term diluted for the shading mixture indicates a ratio of approximately 95% water to 5% paint. If a different ratio is recommended, the ratio will be provided. The Scroll Hanger Paint the scroll hanger, including the sides, with Burnt Umber. Allow to dry. Brush the Weathered Wood medium over the entire surface in an even coat, including the sides. The application should not be too thick, or too thin, for the best results. The Weathered Wood medium should be completely dry to the touch before moving to the next step. Using Warm White, and the No. 12 shader, apply the paint in a patting motion, laying the paint down onto the surface. Pulling the paint across the surface can move the Weathered Wood medium and ruin the effect. Applying the paint in different directions as you lay the paint down onto the surface will also help to give good results. Refill the brush with Warm White paint as needed, and repeat the steps given above until the entire surface, has been covered. 4 artistsclub.com

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As the paint dries, the separation will begin, giving the weathered wood effect. The Plaque THE BACKGROUND: Base coat the entire background of the plaque with Sea Glass diluted with Warm White in a 50-50 ratio. When dry, begin shading with diluted Arbor Green and Sea Glass mixed in a 50-50 ratio. Deepen with diluted Arbor Green in some areas for added contrast. Concentrate the shading around the top of the plaque, and around the bow and bouquet. THE HARLEQUIN DESIGN: Base coat the black areas with Grey Sky. Base coat the white areas with Warm White. Shade the grey squares with diluted Lamp Black, floating a little of the diluted Lamp Black over the white areas to soften. THE ANGEL FIGURINE THE FACIAL DETAILS, NECK AND HANDS: Base coat with Light Mocha. Transfer, or freehand, the following details: The eyebrows, the shape of the eyes, the nose, the mouth and the detailing for the fingers. Begin shading with diluted Mocha for contrast to define the facial features, provide shading under the chin and jawline, give contour to the hands, and to create the detailing for the fingers Paint on the eyebrows with diluted Light Cinnamon. Use diluted Light Cinnamon mixed with Mocha in a 50-50 ratio to deepen shading around eyes, and under the chin.. Paint in the eye area with Warm White. Add Blue Haven to create the irises. Paint in Lamp Black to create the pupils. Add a highlight of Warm White. Outline the eyes with diluted Burnt Umber. Paint the mouth with Baby Pink. Mix Baby Pink and Alizarin Crimson in a 50-50 ratio to deepen and give contrast. Use Cranberry Wine and Alizarin Crimson mixed in a 50-50 ratio to paint on a line to separate the lips and to deepen the corners. Add a highlight of Warm White in the center of the lips. Use the same mixture of Baby Pink and Alizarin Crimson to paint on the cheeks. Pat on the cheeks with the tip of a small round brush. Repeat if needed to deepen. Pat and blend, a little Light Mocha around the edges of the cheek areas to soften the effect, if needed. THE HAIR: Base coat the hair with Banana Cream. Using a mixture of Honey Brown and Banana Cream in a 50-50 ratio shade to create contrast at the part in the center of the hair, and around the buns. Add high lights of Warm White and Banana Cream to lighten the center areas. THE ANGEL FIGURINE S WINGS: Paint in the black edging with Grey Sky. Shade with diluted Lamp Black. Base coat the white areas with Warm White. Shade with diluted Lamp Black. Transfer, or freehand, the rose and greenery details. Base coat the roses with Pink Chiffon. Shade around the edges with diluted Peony Pink, then add a swirl of diluted Peony Pink to create the effect of rose petals. Base coat the leaves and the stems with Lemonade. Shade some leaves with diluted Leaf Green and some with diluted Avocado mixed in a 50-50 ratio with Leaf Green. THE ANGEL FIGURINE S DRESS: Base coat with Pink Chiffon. Shade the dress, the collar and the heart shape, with diluted Boysenberry Pink. Add additional layers to create contour and contrast. Transfer, or freehand, the stripes. Paint on with Warm White with a liner brush, in irregular lines to give the effect of folds in the fabric. Transfer, or freehand, the dots around the heart, and the lace picot edging around the collar edges. Paint on these details with Warm White. 6 artistsclub.com

THE BASKET FULL OF PURPLE POSIES: Base coat the basket with Oyster Beige. Transfer, or freehand, the basket design. Paint on basket weave details, and shade, with diluted Mink Tan. Base coat the leaves with Lemonade. Shade with diluted Avocado Dip. Transfer, or freehand, the purple posies. Paint on with Warm White and Pansy Lavender in a 50-50 mixture. While the base coat is still wet, add a swirl of Warm White with the top of a liner brush to add a highlight. THE URN WITH ROSE WREATH AND POLKA DOT BOW: THE URN: Base coat the urn with Warm White and Soft Sage in a 50-50 ratio. Transfer, or freehand, the urn details. Using diluted Avocado, shade the urn, and add the detailing with a liner brush. THE POLKA DOT BOW: Base coat the bow with Grey Sky. Shade with diluted Lamp Black. Transfer, or freehand, the polka dots. Paint on with Warm White. When dry, float a small amount of diluted Lamp Black over the dots to soften. THE ROSE HEART SHAPED WREATH: Transfer, or freehand, the roses and leaves to create a heart shaped wreath. Paint on the roses with Warm White. While the base coat is still wet, mix in diluted Mink Tan to create swirls to resemble an open rose. Paint on the leaves with Lemonade. Where there is an open space, paint in a stem with Lemonade. Shade leaves, and stem areas, with Leaf Green. The veining is added later with the pen. THE CUPCAKE: THE CUPCAKE HOLDER: Base coat the cupcake holder with Warm White and Wisteria in a 50-50 mixture. Shade with diluted Grape Juice. Transfer, or freehand, the polka dots. Base coat with Warm White. Shade over the polka dots with diluted Grape Juice to soften. THE ICING: Base coat the icing with Warm White. Add shading with diluted Baby Pink to create the effect of layers being sure to leave light areas of the Warm White base coat to remain for contrast. THE CHERRY: Transfer, or freehand, the cherry leaves and stem. Paint on the cherry with Warm White and Baby Pink mixed in a 50-50 ratio. Begin shading the base of the cherry with diluted Alizarin Crimson. Deepen the area at the base of the cherry with a second shading application of Alizarin Crimson and Cranberry Wine mixed in a 50-50 ratio. Paint on the stem with Mink Tan. Shade with diluted Burnt Umber. Paint on the leaves with Lemonade. Shade with Avocado and Leaf Green in a 50-50 ratio. THE STRAWBERRIES: Base coat with Baby Pink and Warm White mixed in a 50-50 ratio. Shade with diluted Alizarin Crimson. Add a second shading application of Alizarin Crimson and Cranberry Wine mixed in a 50-50 ratio. Transfer, or freehand, the seeds. Paint on with Burnt Umber, using a liner brush. Base coat the glazing with Warm White. Shade with diluted Mink Tan. Use just enough of the diluted shading mixture to barely tint some of the glaze drips to give the effect of contour. Transfer, or freehand, the sprinkles. Paint on with diluted Alizarin Crimson in varying shapes and sizes. Transfer, or freehand, the stem and leaves. Basecoat with Lemonade. Shade some leaves with diluted Leaf Green, and others with a shading mixture of Leaf Green and Avocado mixed in a 50-50 ratio. THE BOUQUET: THE PURPLE POSIES: Base coat the purple areas with Warm White and Wisteria mixed in a 50-50 ratio. Paint in the centers with Lemonade. Shade with diluted Leaf Green. Transfer, or freehand, the black dots around the outside of the center. Paint on with Grey Sky. Shade with diluted Lamp Black leaving some of the dots very light for contrast. Transfer, or freehand, the yellow stamen. Paint on with Banana Cream. Shade to proved contrast with diluted Honey Brown. THE BLUE DAISIES: Base coat the petals with Warm White. Shade some of the petals with diluted Sapphire Blue. Shade some of the petals with diluted Deep Periwinkle. Base coat the daisy center with Banana Cream and Warm White mixed in a 5-50 ratio. Shade around the base of the daisy center with Banana Cream. When dry, deepen the contrast by shading with diluted Honey Brown. Create dots around the base of the flower center, with some spilling over onto the petals, with the tip of a liner brush dipped in Burnt Umber. Add a few dots of Honey Brown. artistsclub.com 7

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THE ROSE AND ROSEBUD: Base coat the rose and rose bud with Pink Chiffon. Transfer, or freehand, the petal details. Begin creating the petal design by shading with diluted Peony Pink. Deepen the shading, to create contrast, with a mixture of Peony Pink and Cranberry Wine in a 50-50 ratio. Be sure to keep the edges of the petals light for contrast. Pat more Pink Chiffon back onto the petal edges if needed. THE LEAVES AND STEMS: Transfer, or freehand, the stems and any leaves that may have been lost during the base coat and shading of the background. Base coat all leaves and stems with Lemonade. Vary the diluted shading mixtures of Leaf Green and Avocado, to give more interest to the results. For some areas, use a 50-50 mixture of Leaf Green and Avocado. In other areas, use a 25% Avocado to 75% Leaf Green for a brighter result. On some leaves, I used only diluted Leaf Green, or only a very small amount of Avocado in the mixture. The leaves next to the rose bud were shaded primarily with Leaf Green. Diluted Avocado was used more predominantly for all the other leaves. The interior details will be added later with the pen. Shade the stems with the same color techniques as given for the leaves. THE BLACK AND WHITE STRIPED BOW: Base coat the white stripes with Warm White. Base coat the black stripes with Grey Sky. Basecoat the inside area of the bow (the area that is next to the leaves and posy stems) with Grey Sky. Shade the black stripes with Lamp Black. Focus the shading at the edge areas, keeping the center areas lighter for contrast. The Teacup THE BLACK BACKGROUND: (at the top of teacup, and at the base of teacup) Base coat with Grey Sky. Shade with diluted Lamp Black. Transfer, or freehand, the blue dots. Base coat the dots with Blue Chiffon. Shade with Deep Periwinkle. THE ROSE, LEAVES AND STEM: Paint this rose with the same colors, and techniques as given for the open rose in the bouquet. THE LACE EDGING AT THE TOP RIM AND THE BASE OF THE TEACUP: Base coat the background area with Warm White. Shade with diluted Lamp Black. Transfer, or freehand the white dots at the center of the lace semi-circles. Paint on the dots with Warm White. Transfer, or freehand, the spokes coming from the center dots. There are five spokes coming from each semi-circle. Paint on with diluted Grey Sky. Transfer, or freehand, the dots along the top rim of the teacup, along the bottom of the base of the teacup, and along all of the lace edges. THE ANGEL DESIGN ON THE BOWL OF THE CUP: Base coat the bowl of the teacup with Warm White. Transfer the outline of the Angel design the same as is given above for the transfer the instructions for the Angel Figurine with the exception of the hand and finger detailing. Shade very lightly around the outline of the Angel design and the edges of the teacup bowl with diluted Lamp Black. Follow the instructions as given above for painting the Angel Figurine s facial details, neck, and hair. Paint the Angel s wings the same as given for the Angel Figurine. The instructions for the blue daisies design is the same as for the blue daisies given above, as well as the leaves and stems. Paint, and shade, the Angel s collar the same as instructed for the Angel Figurine s dress. Use Boysenberry Pink shading to deepen the triangular edges. Transfer, or freehand, the heart and stroke work design. Use Warm White, and a liner brush to create strokes, and all dots for the heart shape and the collar. THE HANDLE: THE BLACK AND WHITE STRIPES ON THE TEACUP HANDLE: Paint the black and white stripes with the same paint colors, and instructions, as for the black and white striped bow. THE ROSE AND LEAVES DESIGN ON THE HANDLE: Base coat background area with Warm White. Shade with diluted Lamp Black. Transfer, or freehand, the leaves. Paint the rose and the leaves with the same colors, and techniques, as given above for the rose and leaves on the teacup. THE GREEN AREAS WITH BLUE POLKA DOTS: Base coat with Lemonade. Shade with Avocado. Transfer, or freehand, the polka dots. Paint on with Blue Haven. Shade with diluted Deep Periwinkle. THE PINK BANDS: Base coat with Baby Pink. Shade with Alizarin Crimson. FINISHING artistsclub.com 9

The sequence of the final steps are as follows: Varnishing Antiquing Inking Assembly Spattering Spray Final Finish: optional Varnishing I dilute the varnish in a 50-50 mixture with water. Apply in a thin even coat over the scroll hanger, the plaque and the teacup after all the painting, and shading, has been completed. Allow to dry. I apply a second coat, working in the opposite direction, to ensure complete coverage. Antiquing I antique all my surfaces, if only with a very light application. My antiquing medium is Burnt Umber mixed with approximately 95% water and 5% paint. Test to see if the solution appears too dark, and adjust with more water, or paint, if needed. After the first application of antiquing has thoroughly dried you can decide if you are pleased with the results. 10 artistsclub.com

For a darker effect, apply another light coat of the antiquing. A word of caution is that applying too much antiquing creates a dark and muddy result. I suggest applying a very light coat of the antiquing for this design then adding a second application of antiquing along the edges of the plaque, the arched top, and at all four corners. Apply a light application of antiquing to the scroll to maintain the light ivory color. Inking Inking details are added after the varnish, and antiquing, have been applied and the surface has thoroughly dried. Outline, or trace, around each shape/element of the entire design that you want to emphasize. Inking the design pulls out design elements, but you can be selective by choosing only certain elements of the design for emphasis or inking the entire design. Inking is an easy way to add details that would be more difficult, even impossible, with paint and brush. Use the line drawing, and the photo, as a reference. Make shorter, broken lines, instead of trying to draw longer, straighter lines if your hands are unsteady. Inking mistakes can be fixed by filling in with more paint, or even painting over an area, and starting again. It takes a few applications of paint to cover the ink, but it can be done. Assembly Place a few drops of the Americana Wood Glue on the back of the scroll hanger and press in place along the arch of the plaque. Repeat to attach the teacup in the correct position. Spattering Spatter the entire surface with Warm White. Since I don t mind getting paint on my fingers, I use a toothbrush. Test the spatter pattern on a piece of paper before applying to the surface. If the paint is too thick to create a fine spatter pattern, add a few drops of water to thin. For this design, I covered the Angel faces with a small piece of paper towel before spattering. Final Finishing If you would like to apply a final protective sealer, I suggest the Americana matte spray sealer. Follow the directions on the can. I apply two light coats. ATTACH THE WIRE HANGER: Cut the wire to approximately a 28 inch length. Bend the wire at mid-point, twisting to create the loop. Push the ends of the wire through the holes from the back to the front. Curl and bend up to hold the plaque in place. artistsclub.com 11

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Pattern at 100% 1" x 1" To ensure your pattern is at 100%, this box should measure 1" x 1" when printed. artistsclub.com 13

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Pattern at 100% 1" x 1" To ensure your pattern is at 100%, this box should measure 1" x 1" when printed. artistsclub.com 15

Copyright 2018 by Cindy Mann Vitale and Crafts Group, LLC. All Rights Reserved. #332448 No. *A332448* Artist s Club. All rights reserved. For private, non-commercial use only. Please see our web site for terms of use.