142 Figure 11 application. Direct high-frequency There are two methods for applying high-frequency current. 1. Direct surface application. Do not apply any product to the client s face. If the glass electrode is hard to move on the skin, use some gauze over it. The cosmetologist holds the handpiece, where the glass electrode is inserted, and applies it directly to the client s skin, moving it slowly over the entire face for stimulation (Figure 11). When applying and removing the electrode from the skin, you must hold your finger on the glass electrode to prevent sparking. Remove your finger once the electrode has been placed on the skin. Dab the electrode on a spot to cause sparking, which helps disinfect and heal acne and other lesions. 2. Indirect application. The client holds the tube electrode (with the metal coil inside) while you massage the face with your hands (Figure 12). At no time should you hold the electrode. To prevent shock, turn on the current only after the client has firmly grasped the electrode. Turn the current off before you remove the electrode from the client s hand. The indirect application stimulates all cell functions without the irritation that could occur with direct application. This treatment is beneficial for sensitive, dehydrated skin. LIGHT THERAPY Figure 12 application. Low frequency High frequency Figure 13 wavelengths. Indirect high-frequency Long wavelength Short wavelength Long and short Light therapy refers to treatment by means of light rays. Light or electrical waves travel at a tremendous speed 186,000 miles per second. There are many kinds of light rays, but in esthetics work we are concerned with only three those producing heat, known as infra-red rays; those producing chemical and germicidal reaction, known as ultraviolet rays, and visible light, all of which are contained within the spectrum of the sun. If a ray of sunshine is passed through a glass prism, it will appear in seven different colors, known as the rainbow, arrayed in the following manner: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet. These colors, which are visible to the eye, constitute the visible rays. Scientists have discovered that at either end of the visible spectrum are rays of the sun which are invisible to us. The rays beyond the violet are the ultraviolet rays, also known as actinic rays. These rays are the shortest and least penetrating rays of the spectrum. The action of these rays is both chemical and germicidal. Beyond the red rays of the spectrum are the infrared rays. These are pure heat rays. Visible light is electromagnetic radiation that we can see. Electromagnetic radiation, also called radiant energy, carries, or radiates, energy through space on waves. These waves are similar to the waves caused when a stone is dropped on the surface of the water. The distance between two successive peaks is called the wavelength. Long wavelengths have low frequency, meaning the number of waves is less frequent (fewer waves) within a given length. Short wavelengths have higher frequency because Part 2 General Sciences
143 Visible spectrum Prism Infrared Longer wavelength Lower frequency More penetrating Invisible (60% of natural sunshine) Ultraviolet Shorter wavelength Higher frequency Less penetrating Invisible (5% of natural sunshine) RED ORANGE YELLOW GREEN BLUE INDIGO VIOLET Visible heat rays Neutral Visible chemical actinic (cold) rays 35% visible light rays Figure 14 The visible spectrum. the number of waves is more frequent (more waves) within a given length (Figure 13). The entire range of wavelengths of electromagnetic radiation (radiant energy) is called the electromagnetic spectrum. Visible light is the part of the electromagnetic spectrum that we can see. Visible light makes up 35 percent of natural sunlight (Figure 14). Ultraviolet rays and infrared rays are also forms of electromagnetic radiation, but they are invisible because their wavelengths are beyond the visible spectrum of light. Invisible rays make up 65 percent of natural sunlight. Within the visible spectrum of light, violet has the shortest wavelength and red has the longest. The wavelength of infrared is just below red, and the wavelength of ultraviolet is just above violet. Infrared and ultraviolet rays are not really light at all. Again, they are the wavelengths of electromagnetic radiation that are just beyond the visible spectrum. Therapeutic lamps are used to produce artificial light rays in the salon. These lamps are capable of producing the same rays that are produced by the sun. Thermal (heat), mechanical, and chemical effects are produced by therapeutic lamps. 3? Did y u know... Over one million new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed each year. It is estimated that one in five Americans will develop skin cancer, and 90 percent of those cancers will be the result of exposure to UV radiation from the sun and from tanning beds. Ultraviolet Rays Ultraviolet (UV) rays make up 5 percent of natural sunlight and are also referred to as cold rays or actinic rays. UV rays have short wavelengths, are the least penetrating rays, produce chemical effects, and kill germs. Exposure to the sun can be beneficial if recommended guidelines are followed. Natural sunlight kills germs and produces vitamin D in the skin. Chapter Basics of Electricity
144 Types of Light Beneficial Effects Ultraviolet Infrared White Light? Blue Light Did y u know... Over one million new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed each year. It is estimated that one in five Americans will develop skin cancer, and 90 percent of Red Light those cancers will be the result of exposure to UV radiation from the sun and from tanning beds. increases the elimination of waste products improves the flow of blood and lymph has a germicidal and antibacterial effect produces vitamin D in the skin can be used to treat rickets, psoriasis and acne produces a tan heats and relaxes the skin dilates blood vessels and increases circulation produces chemical changes increases metabolism increases production of perspiration and oil deep penetration relieves pain in sore muscles soothes nerves relieves pain in the back of the neck and shoulders produces some chemical and germicidal effects relaxes muscles soothes nerves improves skin tone provides some chemical and germicidal effects used for mild cases of skin eruptions produces little heat improves dry, scaly, wrinkled skin relaxes muscles penetrates the deepest produces the most heat Table 2 Effects of different types of rays used in light therapy. Ultraviolet radiation can be used to treat rickets (a disease characterized by soft and deformed bones), psoriasis, and acne. Exposure to UV rays also stimulates the skin s production of melanin, which causes a tan and helps protect the skin from further damage. However, deep tanning is another matter; although a deep tan may look healthy, it is really a sign that the skin is under attack from UV radiation. Although the application of UV rays can be beneficial, it must be done with the utmost care. Ultraviolet rays are applied with a lamp at a distance of 30 to 36 inches. The therapy should begin with exposure times of two to three minutes with a gradual increase in exposure time to seven or eight minutes. Overexposure to UV rays can produce Part 2 General Sciences
145 painful burns and blistering, increase the risk of skin cancer, and cause premature aging of the skin. Never leave your client unattended during the exposure time. Infrared Rays Infrared rays make up 60 percent of natural sunlight. Infrared rays have long wavelengths, penetrate the deepest, and produce the most heat. Infrared lamps should be operated at a distance of at least 30 inches, with an exposure time of about five minutes. Check the comfort of your client frequently during the service. Never leave the client unattended. Visible Light Rays Visible light rays are the primary source of lights used for facial and scalp treatments. The bulbs used for therapeutic visible light therapy are white, red, and blue. White light is referred to as combination light because it is a combination of all the visible rays of the spectrum. White light has the benefits of all the rays of the visible spectrum. Blue light should only be used on oily skin that is bare. It contains few heat rays, is the least penetrating, and has some germicidal and chemical benefits. Red light is used on dry skin in combination with oils and creams. Red light penetrates the deepest and produces the most heat. Table 2 lists the effects of the different rays used in light therapy. 4 Chapter Basics of Electricity
chapter glossary active electrode alternating current (AC) amp (A) anaphoresis anode blue light cataphoresis cathode circuit breaker complete circuit conductor converter desincrustation direct current (DC) electric current electricity electrode electromagnetic radiation electrotherapy faradic current fuse galvanic current inactive electrode infrared rays insulator (nonconductor) Electrode used on the area to be treated. Rapid and interrupted current, flowing first in one direction and then in the opposite direction. Unit that measures the strength of an electric current (the number of electrons flowing through a wire). Process of forcing liquids into the tissues from the negative toward the positive pole. Positive electrode. Therapeutic light that should only be used on oily skin that is bare; contains few heat rays, is the least penetrating, and has some germicidal and chemical benefits. Process of forcing acidic substances into deeper tissues using galvanic current from the positive toward the negative pole. Negative electrode. Switch that automatically interrupts or shuts off an electric circuit at the first indication of overload. The path of an electric current from the generating source through conductors and back to its original source. Any substance, material, or medium that conducts electricity. Apparatus that changes direct current to alternating current. Process used to soften and emulsify grease deposits (oil) and blackheads in the hair follicles; also called disincrustation. Constant, even-flowing current that travels in one direction only and produces a chemical reaction. Flow of electricity along a conductor. Form of energy that, when in motion, exhibits magnetic, chemical, or thermal effects; a flow of electrons. Applicator for directing the electric current from the machine to the client s skin. Also called radiant energy because it carries, or radiates, energy through space on waves. Electronic facial treatments. Alternating and interrupted current that produces a mechanical reaction without a chemical effect. Special device that prevents excessive current from passing through a circuit. Constant and direct current (DC), having a positive and negative pole and producing chemical changes when it passes through the tissues and fluids of the body. Opposite pole from the active electrode. Invisible rays that have long wavelengths, penetrate the deepest, and produce the most heat. Substance that does not easily transmit electricity. 146
14 iontophoresis (ionization) jack kilowatt (K) light therapy milliampere milliampere meter modalities ohm (O) plug polarity polarity changer rectifier red light rheostat sinusoidal current Tesla high-frequency current therapeutic lamps ultraviolet (UV) rays visible light volt (V) wall plate watt (W) wavelength white light Process of introducing water-soluble products into the skin with the use of electric current such as the use of the positive and negative poles of a galvanic machine. Plug-in device used to make electrical contact. 1,000 watts. The application of light rays to the skin for the treatment of disorders. One-thousandth of an ampere. Instrument that measures the rate of flow of an electric current. Currents used in electrical facial and scalp treatments. Unit that measures the resistance of an electric current. Two- or three-prong connector at the end of an electrical cord that connects an apparatus to an electrical outlet. Negative or positive pole of an electric current. Switch that reverses with the direction of the current from positive to negative and vice versa. Apparatus that changes alternating current to direct current. Therapeutic light used on dry skin in combination with oils and creams; penetrates the deepest and produces the most heat. Control that regulates the strength of the current used. Alternating current similar to faradic current; produces mechanical contractions and is used during scalp and facial manipulations. Thermal or heat-producing current with a high rate of oscillation or vibration; also called violet ray. Lamps used to produce artificial light rays in the salon. Invisible rays that have short wavelengths, are the least penetrating rays, produce chemical effects, and kill germs; also called cold rays or actinic rays. Electromagnetic radiation that can be seen. Unit that measures the pressure or force that pushes the flow of electrons forward through a conductor. Instrument that plugs into an ordinary wall outlet and produces different types of electric currents that are used for facial and scalp treatments. Measurement of how much electric energy is being used in one second. Distance between two successive peaks of electromagnetic waves. Referred to as combination light because it is a combination of all the visible rays of the spectrum. Chapter Basics of Electricity