1 TRIMLIGHT SELF-INSTALL TRAINING MANUAL
2 Double Strand System (Entire system will can have 2 colors at a time)
3 One Sided Location Control Box Layout TO NOTE: Control Boxes mounted far from the living space or wifi network can experience troubles connecting with local wifi network. Centrally located boxes are ideal. Jump with 18/4 Stranded Wire Power Connection and Controllers Trimlight with Diodes 18/4 Stranded wire in channel to T connection Point
4 Double Strand System Centrally Located Control Box Layout NOTE: Avoid any diode runs longer than without direct connection to LED Amplifier in Control box. Jump with 18/4 Stranded Copper Wire Power Connection and Controllers Trimlight with Diodes 18/4 RGB Jump Wire
5 Large Home Layout with no amplifiers Jump with 18/4 Stranded Copper Wire Power Connection and Controllers T Connection Points Trimlight with Diodes 18/4 Stranded Cable from control box LIMITATION: 1 Wire of 18/4 Stranded cable PER STRAND from the control box to the T Connection points. Not to exceed 180 of diodes.
6 Avoiding Amplifiers 120 Runs LIGHTS LIGHTS DIODE WIRE DIODE WIRE LIGHTS JUMP WIRE Sample of a TEE Connection into the diode wire. Example of running 120 with no amplifiers Shown for a single strand going to multiple sections of the house
7 Avoiding Amplifiers 160 each Run LIGHTS LIGHTS DIODE WIRE DIODE WIRE LIGHTS JUMP WIRE Sample of a TEE Connection into the diode wire. Example of running 160 with no amplifiers Shown for a single strand going to multiple sections of the house
8 Correct Wiring for 2 Strands STRAND 1 (In the Channel) STRAND 2 (In the Channel) HINT: Mark both sides of a string of lights with electrical tape for all strings that will go on STRAND 2. Once you are connecting the jump wire into the string of lights. Ensure that the lights on STRAND 2 (lights with tape on them) will always be connected to the correct jump wire color.
9 Spider Branching from Control Box 4 Individual Runs back to Control Box Shown 6 Runs of (Prior to inline Amplifiers) per boxed amplifier allowed
10 Internal Spidering 3 Individual Runs back to Control Box Shown 6 Runs of (Prior to inline Amplifiers) per boxed amplifier allowed
11 Spacing of Secondary Power Supplies with Boxed Amps 2 Individual Runs back to Control Box Shown 200 Watt Secondary Power Supplies Shown
12 Diode Double Strand System Tee connection (Every 40 Diodes both directions) RGB Wire from Controller Diode Towards the controller Away from the controller RGB Jump wire from CONTROLLER A RGB Jump wire from CONTROLLER B Diode RGB Wire from Controller Diode Towards the controller Away from the controller Maximum 40 DIODES from any tee connection (Maximum 160 length on 1 single 18/4 wire)
13 Diode STEP #1 ENDING A STRAND Towards the controller STEP #2 Diode Towards the controller Coat the ends with Liquid Tape for proper sealing around all wires and conductors
14 Ensuring Proper Voltage to the Power Supply 100 Watt Power Supply On a 100 Watt power supply the voltage switch is internal and difficult to see or access. Using a small screwdriver or tool. Gently insert through the perforated holes to switch the controller to the correct power being supplied. 200 Watt Power Supply On a 200 Watt power supply the voltage switch is external and easy to see and access. Gently switch the controller to the correct power being supplied. The 300 Watt power supply includes this same feature.
15 Selecting Proper Wattage for the Power Supply 50 Watt Power Supply 120 volt input with 5 volt output. For Small systems of less than 120 diodes (60 of 6 spacing). Also used for secondary power supplies to power up to 160 diodes (80 of 6 Spacing of 4 amplifiers) 100 Watt Power Supply 120 volt input with 5 volt output. For Small systems of less than 280 diodes (1 of 6 spacing). 200 Watt Power Supply 120 volt input with 5 volt output. For Medium to Large systems of less than 560 diodes (280 of 6 spacing). 300 Watt Power Supply 120 volt input with 5 volt output. For Large to X-Large systems of less than 900 diodes (450 of 6 spacing). Possible secondary power supplies required for X-Large systems.
16 Jumper Wire Example on a DOUBLE strand system v
AMPLIFIER WIRE JUMPER WIRE TO TRIMLIGHT CHANNEL JUMPER WIRE TO TRIMLIGHT CHANNEL Control Box Layout For WiFi Systems 17 Diode Strings WiFi-104-SSID V+ W B G R - + 120 Volt Plug with Transformer V- V+ RGB Controller V+ W B G R V- V+ RGB Controller V+ W B G R 120 Volt Plug L N V+ V+ V- V- 5 Volt Power Supply
18 Control Panel Example on a Double strand system for small systems WIFI-104 To be installed within view and indoors. Must be within 20-30 unobstructed.
Added 18/4 to more Diodes Added 18/4 to more Diodes Control Box Layout For WiFi Systems With Boxed Amplifiers 19 Diode Strings Each Amplifier to allow up to 460 Diodes Each Amplifier to allow up to 460 Diodes
20 Control Panel Example on a Double strand system with boxed amplifiers WIFI-104 To be installed within view and indoors. Must be within 20-30 unobstructed.
21 Control Panel Example on a Double strand system with boxed amplifiers WIFI-104 To be installed within view and indoors. Must be within 20-30 unobstructed.
TROUBLESHOOTING 22
23 Troubleshooting Problem All the diodes are one color on one run and all the diodes are another on the other run One diode looks funny and does not work like the rest The lights work perfectly until one spot in the middle of a run. Then they do not produce the correct color. Directly after a jump. My lights change colors and do not function properly. The lights stay on green permanently after an amplifier. The entire light strand is acting erratically The entire light strand is acting erratically and the previous suggestion was not helpful. Solution Both strands on the affected runs are connected to the same jump wire going back to one strand. Check all connections to ensure all the Odd bulbs are going back to one strand and all the even bulbs are going to another strand. It is a bad bulb. Cut the bad diode out and replace it with a new one. There is most likely a poor solder joint on the affected diode or the diode just prior. Cut out the last good diode and the affected diode and splice in new diodes. You have a bad connection in the wires of your jump. Check the connections on the upper and lower side of the jump. Change the amplifier. If that does not solve the issue, change multiple amplifiers until the problem is solved. For a permanent fix, transition the project into a non-amplifier system with multiple strands of RGB wire to avoid amplifiers entirely. There is a short. Check all connections and jumps. Use a process of elimination by slowly disconnecting strands until the problem goes away. Once you have located which strand is affecting the system. Replace the entire strand or find the badly soldered diode that is arcing the electrical through the yellow voltage line. Check the last cut diode on all the system s runs. Ensure that each end is properly sealed so no short against the aluminum channel is exposed. Use dolphin connectors, electrical tape, liquid tape, heat shrink end seals to seal the wires.
24 Troubleshooting Problem The lights are dim in some spots or on the ends of the runs Solution Ensure there are no runs of over before supplemental power with amplifiers or RGB wire going back to the control box. Everything works great until I put both strands on white and then one flashes or does not work properly. The system was large and required secondary power supplies for multiple amplifier spots but doesn t seem to work in those areas. The system has inline amplifiers but seems dim or is not working properly as a whole. Insufficient power. Ensure the system has the proper sized power supply or that the power supplied is correctly switched to 115 volt with the switches on the unit. Ensure the power to the outlets is on. Ensure the power supply is properly functioning. Ensure there are only 2 or 4 amplifiers tied to one strand of amp wire going back to the control box. Add another amp wire from the power supply to the closest set of amplfiiers to allow only I have an older remote system but the colors do not match after the amplifiers when I tried to upgrade to the wifi controls Have had multiple diode failures, amplifier failures, and power supply failures on the same home throughout the year. The amplifiers are basic ma signal repeaters on the original system. All amplifiers will need to be replaced. New inline amplifiers require more amperage and could overload an amp wire. Add another amp wire from the power supply and ensure only 2 amps per single amp wire. Usually caused by unreliable electrical grid or lightning strikes within the area. Use a power surge protector and/or a low voltage protector unit to ensure that the system will be turned off if a flux of voltage or a brown out occurs.
25 Troubleshooting Problem Its all wired properly but no lights are on in the control panel. Everything is wired right and lights are on in the panel but no diodes of Trimlight are operating. The Wifi-104 will not connect properly or it times itself out when searching for the network on the app. The Wifi-104 will still not connect properly or it times itself out when searching for the network on the app, after the previous suggestions. The home network does not show up on the list of available networks to connect The wifi-104 will not pair with the home network. Solution Check the outlet for 120 volt power. If the outlet is live, check the 120 volt plug. If the prongs are properly connecting to the 18 gauge wire. Check the power supply for potential damage or possible defect. Replace the power supply to eliminate the possibility of other factors. First make sure that you have paired the controllers to the wifi-104. Second, ensure the boxed amplifiers are wired with the output side connected to the diodes and not the controller. Third, ensure proper connections to the jump wire that goes out to the first string of diodes. Reset the wifi-104 device. Push and Hold both buttons on the wifi-104 device for up to 10 seconds until a long beep is sounded. Then wait 2 minutes and try connecting again. This process may require the controllers to be re-paired to the wifi-104 a second time. Change the SSID on the wifi-104 to a different number with a small flathead screw driver and then follow the previous rebooting procedures for a second time. The wifi-104 is only able to connect to 2.4G wireless networks. It is unable to connect to a 5g network. If a 2.4g network is not available from the correct router, speak to an I.T. specialist for the 2.4G network to be activated on the network. Reboot the wifi-104 and force close the application. Try the process again. If the problem continues, Try rebooting the phone. If problem continues, the home network router is not allowing the wifi-104 to connect due to security protocols. The user will have to always connect through the wifi-104 signal to adjust colors.
26 Troubleshooting Problem Everything is working properly but when on white, it slightly dims near the end of the system. All is wired correctly and after it was paired the lights only work as one. The system acts eratically during the winter even though the control box is in my garage or it is protected outside. The system is plugged into an external timer but will not turn on during the day when I try with the application or remote. Everything is wired in the panel and connections are clean and the diode on the controllers works to the color but still no lights on the Trimlights. Solution Voltage drop has occurred. Use a volt meter to determine the amount of volts the power supply is producing compared to the voltage at the last diode. If the amount is barely under 4 volts. Use a screw driver to adjust the voltage up slightly on the power supply near the terminal blocks where labeled V+ ADJ The RGB controllers were paired to the same zone. Clear the wifi-104 and delete the programming on the controllers and re-pair. To delete the programming on the controllers, push and hold the black button on the controller for 5-10 seconds until a long beep is heard. Now re-pair the controllers to the wifi-104. The system may need our heater with thermostat connected inside the panel. The controls can lag behind when introduced to severe cold. Maintain the temperature of the control box to be above 36 degrees Fahrenheit. An external timer will cut the power completely to the system. The timer will need to be manually switched ON or bypassed to operate the system outside of the specified time schedules. Ensure the yellow wire of the light strings or the wire that is connected to the yellow wire on the diodes is connected into the V+ terminal on the controller and not the W on the controller.