Limosa Trip Report Iceland: Arctic Birds & Atlantic Whales Fri 17th-Sun 26th June 2011 Trip photos (clockwise from top left): Noted on seven dates, Harlequin Ducks are one of Iceland s star birds After raiding an Eider s nest, this enterprising Arctic Fox makes off with an egg Fantastic views of Blue Whale on our boat trip from Húsavík! Gullfoss waterfall appears to vanish into the bowels of the earth Icelandic highlands Guesthouse at Akureyri tour participants Tim & Barbara Horsfield. report compiled by tour leader: Trausti Gunnarsson 1 Limosa Holidays, West End Farmhouse, Chapelfield, Stalham Norfolk NR12 9EJ tel: +44 (0)1692 580623 fax: +44 (0)1692 580624 email: info@limosaholidays.co.uk website: www.limosaholidays.co.uk
Trip Diary Tour Leaders: Trausti Gunnarsson with Tim & Barbara Horsfield, Ted Lazzerine, Andy Mulrenan and Andrew Rann Although this spring has been unusually cold in Iceland, so that both the vegetation and the breeding birds are later than normal, the 12 th Limosa summer tour of Iceland is off to a good start. Very soon after leaving Keflavík airport we are birding at Sandgerði harbour, where we see our first Glaucous Gulls, and a couple of brilliant Bartailed Godwits that must have miscalculated their migration route. At Garðskagi lighthouse, there is a passage of Manx Shearwaters along with other seabirds. On the way to our hotel, a male Ptarmigan is spotted on a lava crag close to the sea. Ptarmigan is the only grouse on the island and can be seen all the way down to sea level. We make an excursion to the hard-to-pronounce Eyjafjallajökull volcano that erupted last year. We drive along the channel of the glacier burst, jökulhlaup, which followed the eruption. At Seljalandsfoss, we all get excellent views of a chubby islandicus race of Wren that that feasts on insects of the umbel of an Angelica. We spend a long time watching a pair of Harlequin Ducks on a nearby stream, feeding and preening at a distance of just a few metres. Great and Arctic Skuas are in the area as well. At Þingvallavatn, we watch a family of four Great Northern Divers, the young hitching a ride on the back of one of the parents, and the adults oblige us with calls. We also get fantastic views of a nesting Red-throated Diver. In the fjord at Borgarnes we see a drake Goosander, and Shelduck, a recent breeder in Iceland, are feeding on the mudflats. At Hoftún, we see many Slavonian Grebes, there is a drake Common Goldeneye visiting, and a drake Shoveler - a rare Icelandic breeder - is spotted, too. We arrive at our hotel in Grundarfjörður, where the main course tonight is delicious, freshly caught cod that melts in our mouths. The next morning, the snow capped Snæfellsjökull volcano is out in full splendour. Pottering along the coast, we experience a stunning encounter with an Arctic Fox. We watch it for about fifteen minutes as it lurks along the coastal pools and finally robs an Eider s nest, then makes for the foxhole with one of the eggs in its mouth. There are many Red-necked Phalaropes at Rif. At Öndverðarnes, the western extremity of Snæfellesnes, we see nesting Brünnich s Guillemots and compare them with the Common Guillemots and the bridled variety. Flatey island is teeming with birds: singing male Snow Buntings allow fantastic views and we get very close views of a Black Guillemot sporting a Gunnel fish in its bill. On the way back to the hotel, we are treated to cracking flight views of an adult and two juvenile White-tailed Eagles. From the sightseeing boat from Stykkishólmur, we see the established pair of White-tailed Eagles, hundreds of Puffins and we get extremely close views of nesting Shag. On the drive north in the afternoon, there are many breeding Pink-footed Geese with goslings. On the whale watching trip from Húsavík we miss the most common cetaceans... but are rewarded with fantastic views of two Blue Whales! Sometimes they are both up together, the blows look like geysers, and their backs seem to go on forever before the comparatively tiny dorsal fin shows. It is amazing to see one of these magnificent creatures rolling around at the surface close to the boat, showing its belly and flippers above the surface. Before heading back to harbour, we get excellent views of a Humpback Whale showing us the fluke and breaching in front of the boat. On a mountainside, a pair of Gyrfalcons is nesting. The bulky female is attending her two chicks and the neater looking, very pale coloured male is perched nearby; he then flies off to hunt and we all get excellent views. The fields behind our guesthouse in Eyjafjörður hold an abundance of Icelandic Black-tailed Godwits, all in breeding finery. A pre-breakfast walk yields fantastic views of two Short-eared Owls hunting in the fields. The birdlife at Lake Mývatn is stunning. We get excellent views of Barrow s Goldeneye, Long-tailed Duck and a drake Pintail. There are many breeding Slavonian Grebes; Tufted Duck, Scaup, Wigeon and Gadwall are abundant and we soak up some fantastic views of a Great Northern Diver at very close range. We explore the magnificent lava formations at Dimmuborgir, and the solfataras at Hverarönd are mesmerizing to watch - but the only bird that braves the pungent smell of hydrogen sulphide is a Black-headed Gull being fed by the tourists. We find a female Merlin and watch it at very close range as it plucks a Meadow Pipit, then flies off. We are lucky enough to find the nest where it divides the prey for its three chicks. Later we see it picking up a kill brought by its mate and bringing it back to the nest. It is fantastic to witness the family life of these attractive birds. On the river near our guesthouse, we find a drake Common Scoter with several ducks that allow very good views. In a woodland near Akureyri, we see another Wren and get fleeting views of Goldcrest, a species that is becoming an established breeder in Iceland. A lone Barnacle Goose is spotted in Öxnadalur valley. We get excellent weather crossing the Kjölur highland route. Along the track we come upon a Gyrfalcon perched on a crag, but it soon flies off. We see more breeding Pink-footed Geese and Purple Sandpipers in their breeding 2 Limosa Holidays www.limosaholidays.co.uk
habitat. The vistas in between Hofsjökull and Langjökull icecaps are breathtaking. We stop for lunch at Hveravellir, where some enjoy a soak in the geothermal pool while others explore the geothermal area. On Brúará river, there are Harlequin Duck by the dozen, a Red-throated Diver and a few Barrow s Goldeneye. On our last morning we head for Reykjanes peninsula, where a lone Brent Goose is seen by a pool. We finish the tour with lunch at Garðskagi lighthouse and some seawatching: Gannets, Manx Shearwaters, Puffins and Razorbills are passing, there are Cormorants and Kittiwakes too, and a few Storm Petrels are seen flying past in the distance. A singing Redwing sees the group off at the terminal building at Keflavík airport at the conclusion of another successful and immensely enjoyable Iceland summer tour. Trausti Gunnarsson ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS RECORDED (A total of 76 species recorded by the group Ptarmigan Lagopus mutus Seen on four days, seven different males, excellent views. Pink-footed Goose Anser brachyrhynchus Flocks of a few dozen adults and goslings seen in Skagafjörður driving north on 22nd, and in a nearby location on 25th plus a few on the highland crossing on the 25th. Greylag Goose Anser anser Barnacle Goose Branta leucopsis One seen in Öxnadalur on 25th. Brent Goose Branta bernicla One seen at a pool in Garður on 26th. Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus Shelduck Tadorna tadorna Three adults at Borgarnes on 19th. Gadwall Anas strepera Common on Mývatn. Wigeon Anas penelope Seen on six days, abundant at Mývatn. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Shoveler Anas clypeata One drake seen close to Hoftún on 19th. Pintail Anas acuta One Drake seen on Mývatn on 23rd. Common Teal Anas crecca Seen on seven days. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Scaup Aythya marila 3 Limosa Holidays www.limosaholidays.co.uk
Common Eider Somateria mollissima Harlequin Duck Histrionicus histrionicus Seen on seven days. A fantastic close pair near Seljalandsfoss 18th, and many dozens of males at Brúará 25th and 26th. Common Scoter Melanitta nigra Females seen on Mývatn and a very good drake at Akureyri along with a few females on 24th and 25th. Long-tailed Duck Clangula hyemalis Excellent views at Akureyri and Mývatn. Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula One drake seen near Hoftún on 19th and another on Mývatn on 24th. Barrow s Goldeneye Bucephala islandica Common on Mývatn and several at Brúará 25th. Goosander Mergus merganser One drake seen at Borgarnes on 19th. Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata Many excellent views. Great Northern Diver Gavia immer Seen on seven days. Excellent views at Þingvallavatn and Mývatn. Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus Seen passing Garðskagi lighthouse 17th and 26th. European Storm Petrel Hydrobates pelagicus A few seen by some members of our group at Garðskagi lighthouse 26th. Slavonian Grebe Podiceps auritus Seen on five days, including nesting birds, many good views. Gannet Morus bassanus Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Seen on most days. Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis Seen on three days in the west of Iceland. Merlin Falco columbarius Nine individuals seen on four days including a nesting pair with three chicks in the North, fantastic views. Gyrfalcon Falco rusticolus A pair with 2 chicks and another female with four chicks in the North on 23rd and 24th. Another adult bird probably female on the highland crossing on 25th. Very good views. White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla Excellent flight views of and adult and two juvenile birds in Snæfellsnes on 21st, and an adult pair from the Stykkishólmur boat trip on 22nd. 4 Limosa Holidays www.limosaholidays.co.uk
Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica Two seen in breeding plumage at Sandgerði on 17th. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Redshank Tringa totanus Turnstone Arenaria interpres Seen on three days. Purple Sandpiper Calidris maritima Seen on three days including in breeding grounds in the highlands on 25th. Dunlin Calidris alpina Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus Common Gull Larus canus Seen on 4 days. Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus Seen on most days. Glaucous Gull Larus hyperboreus Common in the west, seen on six days. Iceland Gull Larus glaucoides Juvenile birds seen on three days in Grundarfjörður and Húsavík. Herring Gull Larus argentatus Seen on six days. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla Common on the coast, seen on seven days. Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea 5 Limosa Holidays www.limosaholidays.co.uk
Great Skua Stercorarius skua Seen on three days. Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus Brünnich s Guillemot Uria lomvia Seen breeding in a few places in Snæfellsnes on 20th. Common Guillemot Uria aalge Seen in Snæfellsnes 20th. Razorbill Alca torda Black Guillemot Cepphus grylle Puffin Fratercula arctica Seen on six days. Feral Pigeon / Rock Dove Columba livia Seen and probably breeding in cliffs at Seljalandsfoss on 18th, and a few near Reykjavík on the last day. Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus One seen near Stóra Dímon on 18th and at least two individuals seen repeatedly around the guesthouse in the north. Raven Corvus corax Goldcrest Regulus regulus Seen by some participants near Akureyri on 25th. Wren Troglodytes troglodytes islandicus Seen near Seljalandsfoss 18th and near Akureyri 25th. Very good views. Starling Sturnus vulgaris Seen on most days. Redwing Turdus iliacus Blackbird Turdus merula One male seen near Reykjavík on 26th. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis Common Redpoll Carduelis flammea Seen on seven days. Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis 6 Limosa Holidays www.limosaholidays.co.uk
MAMMALS Grey Seal Halichoerus grypus Four seen on three days. Common Seal Phoca vitulina Seen on two days. Blue Whale Balaenoptera musculus Fantastic views of two individuals on the whale watching boat trip from Húsavík on 23rd. Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae Great views of one individual seen breaching and fluking on the whale watching from Húsavík on 23rd. Arctic Fox Vulpes lagopus Cracking views near Rif on 20th. 7 Limosa Holidays www.limosaholidays.co.uk