Chapter 11 Dyeing and Printing Consumers look for two things: Aesthetically pleasing colors and prints Colorfastness - colors that are permanent Bleed lose colors in water Crock transfers color thru rubbing or abrasion Fade lose color Frost lose color from abrasion Migrate shift in their color
Dyes and Pigments Dyes (dyestuffs) Dissolve in water Most common way to add color Natural dyes poor colorfastness Chemical dyes Pigments #134 Do not dissolve in water Resin binder necessary to adhere pigment to fabric
DYE Mordant Natural acids or oxides used to improve the colorfastness of natural dyes Set To make permanent Depth of Shade How dark a color you can get Dye Lot Each dye bath prepared is considered a dye lot. Dyed yarns include lot numbers. The number means they were dyed at the same time
Pigment Pigment Inorganic compound used to add color Binder Holds pigment on textile surface Curing Process of treating fabric with dry heat to set finishes or pigments
Characteristics of Dyes Bond chemically with the fabric More colorfast Crocking and fading are less of a problem Do not affect the texture of the fabric Can be used on fibers, yarns, fabrics and garments Printed colors must be aged with steam or heat Washing and rinsing required to remove chemicals and excess dye
Characteristics of Pigments Cheaper and more efficient to apply May stiffen the fabric With dark colors, crocking and loss of color in laundering may occur Extensive color range possible Can be added to manufactured fibers before extrusion Easier to obtain color match color is on the surface Can be applied as solid color or print Excellent lightfastness Colors must be cured heat or UV
Major Dye Classifications BOX 11.3 pg. 174-175 Cellulosic Fibers Protein Fibers Manufactured Fibers
Cellulosic Fibers Dyes Azoic or Naphthol Dyes Direct Dyes Reactive Dyes Vat Dyes
Protein and Manufactured Fiber Dyes Protein Fibers Acid Dyes Premetalized Acid Dyes Manufactured Fiber Dyes Cationic or Basic Dyes Disperse Dyes
Dyeing Processes Refer to Box 11-4 on p.177 Cost effective to delay until last stages of production Textiles may be dyed at several stages during production Solution dyeing #122 Stock or fiber dyeing #123 Yarn dyeing #124 Space dyeing #128 Piece dyeing #129 Product or garment dyeing
Dyeing Processes Solution Dyeing Prefiber stage Only for manufactured fibers added before extrusion Excellent colorfast Expensive Stock Dyeing Good dye penetration Adding color at the fiber stage Yarn Dyeing Adding color after fiber has been spun to yarn Excellent dye penetration Expensive
Donegal wool tweed/stock or fiber dyed
Yarn Dyeing
Dyeing Processes Yarn Dyeing Skein dye yarn wound in loose bundles Package dye yarn is wound on packages with a hollow center Beam dye yarn is wound on the warp beam Piece dyeing most common method solid color Beam dye lightweight, open weave fabrics like above beam dye Beck dye fabric is stitched end to end and circulated thru dye bath Jet dye streams of pressurized dye in an enclsed system Pad dyeing stresses fabric, uses pads to squeeze dye into fabric Continuous dyeing for long fabrics efficient, but color application may not be level, or consistent
Piece Dyeing Primarily used for solid color fabrics Continuous length of dry cloth Passed full-width through a trough of hot dye solution Cloth between padded rollers Squeezes in color evenly Removes excess solution
Padded Rollers for Piece Dyeing
Special Piece-Dyed Effects Cross Dyeing #131 Multi-colored textile in blended fiber products Union Dyeing #130 Solid color fabric in fiber blend products Tone-on-tone Dyeing Shaded effect
Printing Screen Printing Three commercial screen methods Hand-screen printing slow good for small orders Automatic screen printing Fig 11-3 p. 182 Automated version of hand printing Rotary Screen Printing Fastest method
Printing Roller Printing Fig 11-4 p.182 Similar to printing a newspaper
Types of Printing pg. 183 Direct Printing #132 Blotch Printing #133 Discharge Printing Resist Printing Duplex Printing Warp Printing Flock Printing Deluster Printing Burn-Out Printing
Blotch Printing
Discharge print
Warp ikat
Flock print
Special Printing Techniques Heat-Transfer Printing #136 Also called thermal printing or sublimation printing Photographic Printing Also called phototransfer printing Ink-Jet Printing Computerized process
Problems With Printing Second quality merchandise Increases costs and reduces efficiency Two Problems with Printing Out-of-Register Prints Off-grain Prints
Out-of-register print
Printed off-grain
Handcraft Printing Techniques Resists Methods Batik waxing and dye baths Indonesia Tie-dyeing tied then dyed Stenciling like silk screening, but with stencil Block Printing Oldest printing technique uses carved blocks Hand Painting Airbrushing
Batik
Tie dye
Carved block used for hand block printing
Hand block print
Hand block print