conferencia ics 2015 FOOD FUTURES organizacao. monica truninger (coordenadora), jose Manuel sobral, marta rosales e dulce freire 4 JUNHO morning programme 9:30 Welcome Coffee 9:45 Opening session: José Luís Cardoso and Mónica Truninger, ICS-ULisboa session one Chair: José Manuel Sobral, ICS-ULisboa 10h00 Los desafíos alimentarios de alimentarse en el futuro, Jesus Contreras, Universidad de Barcelona 10:30 De la valorisation des produits de terroir à celle des produits locaux "dici". Pour quels territoires? 11:00 Debate Claire Delfosse, Université Lyon 2 11:30-11:45 Coffee-break session two Chair: Nuno Domingos, ICS-ULisboa 11:45 From humans to mice in postingestive reinforcement, Albino J. Oliveira-Maia, Champalimaud Centre for the Unknown 12:15: Debate
12:30-14:30 Lunch afternoon session three Chair: Dulce Freire, ICS-ULisboa 14:30 Ecological intensi cation of agriculture: a new technological paradigm in food production? José Lima Santos, Instituto Superior de Agronomia - ULisboa 15:00 Tasting the future, the future of taste, 15:30 Debate Mara Miele, Cardiff University 16:00 Coffee-break session four Chair: Marta Rosales, ICS-ULisboa 16:30 Food consumption: individual and social change, Lívia Barbosa, Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro 17:00 Learning to Eat Better, Alan Warde, University of Manchester 17:30 Debate 18:00 Final remarks and closing session: Monica Truninger, ICS-ULisboa Lisbon, 4 June 2015
abstracts Session One (10,00h) jesus contreras UNIV. BARCELONA Los desafíos alimentarios de alimentarse en el futuro The Food Challenges of the Future Throughout history, obtaining the necessary substances, as well as escaping hunger and shortness of food, resulted in the production of multiple material and immaterial resources. However, in present times, the most significant lines of questions evolve around the security and reliability of food in terms of quality, safety and health. Contemporary society faces a true Copernican Revolution in the field of food. Today, the relationship with food is extremely different when compared to previous times. New terminologies such as molecular gastronomy, pharmafood, or nutrigenomics illustrate new relations between people, food and health. Also, the Agro-food industries, sensing an increasing segmentation and mutation of markets, create new products. Both marketing strategies and nutrigenomics stress the argument that people are becoming more and more unique, and with special and individualized needs. I.e. the individual is less and less identified as part of a species or of a specific culture, and more by his DNA or a market segment. Hence, it seems that the transmission of knowledge regarding food from generation to generation is condemned, as in the past, to disappear and be replaced by an increasingly specific and individualised knowledge produced by the medical community. Session One (10,30h) Claire Delfosse UNIV. LYON 2 De la valorisation des produits de terroir à celle des produits locaux "dici". Pour quels territoires?
Session Two (11,45h) Albino J. Oliveira-Maia CHAMPALIMAUD CENTRE FOR THE UNKNOWN From humans to mice in postingestive reinforcement Feeding decisions are influenced not only by sensory factors such as palatability and environmental cues of food availability, but also by the postingestive effects that occur after food has been swallowed. In fact, both animals and humans will increase the intake of flavors associated with delivery of nutrients, and will also develop preferences for those flavors, even when they are presented in the absence of the nutrient. Nutrient-conditioned flavor preferences have been demonstrated in humans but there are significant limitations in prior literature: while maltodextrin is frequently used as the unconditioned stimulus, since it is considered to be a flavorless carbohydrate, we found that it is easily detected at several concentrations. To overcome this problem, we developed a low-calorie control solution that cannot be discriminated from a maltodextrin solution. Under these conditions, we were surprised to find that, while maltodextrin-paired flavors were not rated as more pleasant relative to control favors, consumption choices revealed the development of a behavioral preference for the maltodextrin-paired flavor. However, most research exploring postingestive mechanisms in animal feeding behavior has been performed using food preference assays, without a clear action-related component. Thus, we have further contributed to expand research on this area by developing an instrumental learning paradigm where postingestive feedback was isolated in mice using direct intragastric infusion of sugars, contingent upon lever pressing behavior. We observed significant increases of total lever presses and of lever press rate in mice pressing to obtain intragastric (IG) sucrose (a palatable and calorie-dense sugar), but not IG sucralose (a sweet tasting but non-caloric sweetener). In addition, we found that bursting activity in Ventral Tegmental Area dopamine-producing neurons is necessary for this postingestive-dependent behavior, in accordance with prior data demonstrating dopamine release in the ventral striatum, in response to caloric postingestive stimulation, independently of taste. These results have advanced the field of postingestive reinforcement, through an expansion from purely pavlovian processes to instrumental conditioning. Importantly, we have also demonstrated a link between postingestive instrumental conditioning and VTA dopaminergic activity, which is beyond mere correlation with dopamine release, and suggests the importance of dopaminergic neuron bursting activity for postingestive factors to translate into meaningful behavioral effects.
Session Three (14,30h) Jose Lima Santos UNIV. DE LISBOA Ecological intensification of agriculture: a new technological paradigm in food production? During the last decades, input-based intensification of agriculture has actually delivered sufficient food while saving some land for nature and ecological processes, but at the cost of increasingly inefficient input use and excessive input losses, which expanded pollution loads (nitrates, GGE, pesticides ) and resource depletion (water, soil, biodiversity and energy). Today, land is getting scarcer while energy and other inputs are also getting scarcer and more expensive. This hinders new business-as-usual input-based rises in agriculture yields. In this context, many authors have suggested the need for a deep technological change driving us away from input-based intensification while keeping its sunny side: rising perhectare output, which allows the saving of land for natural habitats and ecological processes. One possible way in this direction is redesigning agro-ecosystems so that internal ecosystem processes (e.g. biological nitrogen fixation) efficiently substitute for industrial inputs (e.g. industrial nitrogen fertilizer). The idea is to intensify agriculture based on better ecological knowledge about the way agro-ecosystems function. In this communication we (1) assess the potential for this ecologically based intensification of agriculture; (2) ask whether this actually constitute a fundamental technological paradigm shift in agriculture driving us away from BAU input-based intensification; and (3) what are the current constraints to the expansion of ecologically based intensification. Session Three (15,00h) Mara Miele UNIV. CARDIFF Tasting the future, the future of taste One day, growing meat may seem as natural as making cheese or beer Isha Datar It is widely acknowledged the current ways of producing and consuming meat are fast becoming unsustainable with a world population heading for 9 billion in 2050. Global warming, environmental degradation, energy consumption, animal diseases and the anticipated worldwide food shortage are some of the pressing food related issues that will need to be addressed, and that is even before the much debated issues of animal cruelty and animal welfare in factory farming are addressed. In this paper I will look at recent innovations in food production for addressing such issues, both in animal farming and in new products for producing edible proteins and in conversation with Callon et al., 2009 I will discuss the production of new 'sustainable food' and the design of new spaces of consumption that they envisage.
Session Four (16,30h) Livia Barbosa PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DO RIO DE JANEIRO Food consumption: individual and social change In the last two decades food consumption has become an important topic of discussion in everyday life and has acquired a great visibility and projection in all types of media. From basic needs, tradition, ritual and routine habits, food and eating has acquired new meanings. They have become a leisure activity, a type of cultural capital, a life style and an instrument of social and individual change. Different discourses reinforce and at the same time contradict each other; new types of professions and activities linked to food have blossomed creating new markets and products and leaving individuals, at times, lost as how to behave in relation to food eating. One of the most important food discourses of the last decades is health and wellness, a great umbrella under which different perspectives about what it means to be healthy are grouped together. Drawing from different types of material - empirical data, interviews, newspapers, magazines, TVS shows - I draw a profile of what I identified as the four most important types of perspectives about what it means to be healthy in contemporary society and what type of change individuals aim for when they adopt one or other of these. Session Four (17,00h) alan Warde UNIV. MANCHESTER Learning to Eat Better This talk will address the question of how eating practices change. Noting that eating habits are often deeply entrenched, at both personal and social levels, it examines mechanisms that promote changes in behaviour. The issue is explored with respect to theories of practice which seek to account for change in individual behaviour in terms of mechanisms other than personal will and individual decision-making. I take as an illustrative case the emergence of widespread taste for foreign or exotic foods in western societies in the late 20th century. I point to changes in provision, intermediation and cultural environment as sources for an explanation of the development of new tastes. The example is used to refine understandings of collective agency and personal projects with the framework of theories of practice.
bios participants alan Warde UNIV. MANCHESTER Alan Warde is Professor of Sociology in the School of Social Sciences, University of Manchester, a Professorial Fellow of Manchester's Sustainable Consumption Institute (SCI), and Guest Professor at Universities of Uppsala and Aalborg. He held the Jane and Aatos Erkko Visiting Research Professorship in Studies on Contemporary Society, Helsinki Collegium for Advanced Studies, University of Helsinki (2010-12). Research interests are wide but recently have concerned the sociology of consumption, the sociology of culture, and the sociology of food and eating in the context of issues of sustainability. Current projects are concerned with applying theories of practice to eating, analysing change in eating behaviour in Britain, and conducting a re-study of my 1995 investigation of eating out in Britain. Publications include: Bennett T, Savage M, Silva E, Warde A, Gayo-Cal M and Wright D. (2009), Culture, Class, Distinction, (London: Routledge) Warde A (ed.) (2010) Consumption (Volumes I-IV), (London, Sage, Benchmarks in Culture and Society Series). Warde, A. and Southerton, D. (eds.) (2012) The Habits of Consumption, COLLeGIUM: Studies across Disciplines in the Humanities and Social Sciences, Volume 12, Helsinki: Helsinki Collegium for Advanced Studies. http://www.helsinki.fi/collegium/e-series/volumes/volume_12/index.htm Darmon, I. and Warde, A (eds.) (2014) 'Explorations in cross-national comparison of food practices', special edition, S10, Anthropology of Food, December. Warde A, 'After taste: culture, consumption and theories of practice', Journal of Consumer Culture, 14(3) (2014) 279-303. Yates, L. and Warde, A. 'The evolving content of meals in Great Britain: results of a survey in 2012 in comparison with the 1950s', Appetite, 84(1), (2015), 299-308. Warde, A. (forthcoming, 2015) The Practice of Eating, (Cambridge, Polity).
albino oliveira maia CHAMPALIMAUD CENTRE FOR THE UNKNOWN Albino Oliveira Maia completed his medical degree at the Porto University School of Medicine in July 2002, where he later defended a doctorate in neuroscience. His doctoral thesis was developed from 2005 to 2008 in Duke University, under the supervision of Prof. Miguel Nicolelis. He stayed at Duke as a postdoctoral fellow, and returned to Portugal in 2010 to start a residency training programme at the Department of Psychiatry and Mental Health of Centro Hospitalar de Lisboa Ocidental. Currently, he also coordinates the Neuropsychiatry Unit at the Champalimaud Clinical Centre and Neuroscience Programme, and is Invited Professor at the NOVA School of Medicine. Albino's research has been devoted to understanding how food activates brain reward circuits and, more recently, how these mechanisms could be relevant for compulsive behaviors. His work has been published in journals such as Neuron and Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the USA and he has received prizes and scholarships from several national and international institutions, such as Fundação para a Ciência e Tecnologia, AXA Fund, Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian, Sociedade Portuguesa de Neurociência, Sociedade Portuguesa de Psiquiatria e Saúde Mental, International and European Associations for the Study of Obesity and the Harvard Medical School Portugal Programme. claire delfosse UNIV. LYON 2 Claire Delfosse is director of the Laboratoire d'èdtudes Rurales and professor at the Université de Lyon 2 (France). She has a PhD on geography at the University of Paris I, with a dissertation on "La France fromagère". Since the degrees in History and Geography (University Paris I), she has conducted research in the areas of historical geography and rural studies, both of France, as other regions (Poland, Quebec, Brazil, Morocco, Kenya, etc.). The main research themes have been about building terroir products, land use, agriculture and sustainability, food quality concepts and rural development. She has published dozens of articles and book chapters. It has been coordinator of numerous national and international academic projects, and also expert invited to regional, national and European rural development programs. Selected publications: Delfosse, Claire, 2011, «Heritage-making and the enhancement of so-called 'terroir' products: when rural meets urban», Anthropology of Food, No. 8 pp. 6772 Delfosse, Claire (ed.), 2011, Les terroir dans tous ses états, Paris: La Boutique de l Histoire, 358pp. Delfosse, Claire, 2007, La France fromagère (1880-1990), Paris: La Boutique de l Histoire, 270pp. Delfosse, Claire, 2007, «Agrarisme et qualité dans l entre-deux-guerres. La question du lait» in Pierre Cornu et Jean-Luc Mayaud (dir), Au nom de la terre. Agrarisme et agrariens, en France et en Europe, du XIX siècle à nous jours, Paris: La Boutique de l Histoire, 155-180.
jesus contreras UNIV. BARCELONA I am Professor of Social Anthropology at the Universidad de Barcelona. My main fields of work are economic anthropology, and anthropology of food. I am director of the Food Observatory, which investigates food trends and practices. My recent research focus on the existing relations between life forms and food changes. I was visiting scholar at Cambridge University (1992-3), and Chaire d' Excellence at the C.N.R.S. (2007-8). My main publications include Antropología de la alimentación, Alimentación y cultura: necesidades, gustos y costumbres, Cambios sociales y cambios en los comportamientos alimentarios en la España de la segunda mitad del siglo XX, Los aspectos culturales en el consumo de carne, La obesidad: una perspectiva sociocultural, The nutrients, are also good to think? ; and with con Mabel Gracia, Alimentación y cultura: Perspectivas antropológica; La alimentación y sus circunstancias: placer, conveniencia y salud; Comemos como vivimos: alimentación, salud y estilos de vida y Alimentaçao, sociedade e cultura. jose lima santos UNIV. DE LISBOA, INSTITUTO SUPERIOR DE AGRONOMIA José Lima Santos has a Ph.D in environmental economics (1997). Has coordinated two projects carried out for the Portuguese Institute for Nature and Biodiversity Conservation, which set a Strategy for managing the Natura 2000 Network through agricultural and forestry management. Was Director General for Agriculture and Agri-food Policy and Planning (2000-2003) and gained extensive policy expertise in these functions, namely during the CAP 2003 reform negotiations. Is Professor of Agricultural and Environmental Economics at the Instituto Superior de Agronomia, University of Lisbon; member of the University Board; and also member of the National Council for the Environment and Sustainable Development, which advises the Portuguese Government in these matters. Main research interests include Environmental Economics, Economic Valuation of the Environment, and Evaluation of agricultural systems and their biodiversity impacts, as well as Agri-environmental policies. Has recently co-coordinated (scientific coordination) the PGaE Value Project, carried out for the JRC of the EC, in which a methodology was developed for the broadscale economic valuation of ecosystem services delivered by the EU agriculture. livia barbosa PONTIFÍCIA UNIVERSIDADE CATÓLICA DO RIO DE JANEIRO Livia Barbosa has a PH. D. in Anthropology by Federal University of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil a M.A. in Social Science by the University of Chicago, USA. She was for 25 years Associate Professor at Fluminense Federal Univeristy, Rio de Janeiro. At the moment, she is a Fellow Researcher at Catholic University of Rio de Janeiro. She is the author of several books and articles in Portuguese and English.
mara miele CARDIFF UNIVERSITY My research addresses the geographies of ethical foods consumption and the role of animal welfare science and technology in challenging the role of farmed animals in current agricultural practices and policies. In the last ten years I worked with a large interdisciplinary network of social and animal welfare scientists for developing innovative forms of critical public engagement with animal production and animal welfare science. I was the coordinator of the EU project Dialrel (2006-10), dedicated to establishing a dialogue between religious authorities and scientists about the welfare of animals in practices of religious slaughter and a member of the steering committee of the EU funded project Welfare Quality ( 2004-2009) dedicated to develop standardized protocols for monitoring and assessing animal welfare on farm and in slaughterhouses. The latest project I worked on is the EU funded project EUWelNet (2013) for establishing a European research network of excellence and pilot the European Animal Welfare Research Centre. In 2012 I received the Ashby prize for the paper Miele, M. (2011) 'The taste of happiness: free range chicken', Environment and Planning A, 43 (9) 2070-2090. Other recent publications include 'Between food and flesh: how animals are made to matter (and not to matter) within food consumption practices' Environment and Planning D- Society and Space, 2012, with Adrian Evans and 'Civilizing the Market for Welfare Friendly Products? The Techno-Ethic of the Welfare Quality Assessment', in Geoforum, 2013 (with John Lever), Miele, M. Bock, B., Horling, L., (2015) Animal Welfare: the challenges of implementing a common legislation in Europe, in Bonanno, A. and Busch, L. (eds) The Handbook of International Political Economy of Agriculture and Food, New York and Cheltenham Glos (UK): Edward Elgar Publishing Ltd, pp.295-321 and Miele, M. and Rucinska, K. (in press, 2015) 'Producing halal meat: the case of halal slaughter practices in Wales, UK' in Emel, J. and Neo, H. (eds) The Political Ecologies of Meat Production, London: Earthscan, pp.253-277.
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