Promoting sustainable production and consumption of textiles in India

IMPACT SHEET SWITCH-ASIA PROJECT Sustainable Textiles for Sustainable Development (SUSTEX) Promoting sustainable production and consumption of textiles in India SUSTEX promotes sustainable production in 16 craft clusters and 30 textile parks creating a demand for eco-friendly textiles and improving the quality of life among artisans in the industry

IMPACT SHEET SWITCH-Asia project Sustainable Textiles for Sustainable Development (SusTex) the challenge activities / strategy The textile industry is one of the most chemically intensive industries in the world and is the biggest environmentally polluting industries after agriculture. Moreover, despite the textile industry being the second largest employer in India, yet there has been no previous investment on the occupational health and safety of the artisans engaged in textile production activities. In Rajasthan, the textile industry produces the most hazardous waste and proper disposal facilities are not available. Though, the growth of micro, small and medium enterprises (M/SMEs) in this industry has had a positive impact on economic development in many countries, it also led to the altered production processes resulting in a range of environment and health hazards. With changing market preferences, the traditional craft production processes were altered resulting in the intensive degradation of natural resources. objective The Sustainable Textiles for Sustainable Development (SusTex) project seeks to promote the sustainable production and consumption of textiles, through enhancing the ecological and the economic security of the artisans. The project also seeks to address the occupational health and safety of the artisans besides advocating for their social security. The project promotes sustainable production (i.e. development of less polluting and resource efficient products and processes) and sustainable consumption patterns in the crafts and textile industry in India. The project seeks to achieve its mandate through various instruments like research, trainings, dissemination activities, and outreach. Activities further support advocacy activities with government and private industry supporting best practices for sustainable development in the sector. Partnerships for SCP The project brings together a range of partners including technical service providers, textile producer groups and M/SMEs to conduct action research to provide low cost technological solutions to reducing pollution and occupational health hazards in the textile production. SusTex promotes production and consumption of sustainable textiles through awareness raising and capacity building of the private sector. TARGET GROUPS Over 500 textile related SMEs in Rajasthan where block printing is predominant 14 textile clusters across 7 states India 30 textile parks set up under the SITP scheme of the Government of India Policy Makers Ministry of Environment and Forests, Planning Commission, Ministry of Textiles Academia Research Institutes and Organizations Consumer and Market based organisations Final Beneficiaries: More than 25,000 employees of targeted textile M/SMEs & their families Strengthening Cleaner production and Occupational Health and Safety SusTex works with textile units which rank among the worst polluting and resource intensive industries. SMEs are often not aware of the extent of pollution and the damages that their operations cause. With trainings the project increases their awareness towards the use of environmentally friendly technologies and practices. Examining demand for textiles On the demand side, the project encourages effective marketing strategies to promote environment friendly textiles. It promotes environment friendly textiles which will impact consumers choice/ buying decisions, leading to sustainable consumption by attending trade show and further dissemination activities.

scaling-up strategy Building a model ready to replicate Under the project, a model eco-friendly textile park is being established as an example to the other textile parks setup across India. A public-private partnership between the Government of India and textiles manufacturers organized in the Jaipur Integrated Texcraft Park Private Ltd (JITPPL) funds the infrastructure. The project provides research, knowledge and capacity to entrepreneurs and workers. The public-private partnership ensures the acceptance of the eco-park model. The key project strength is the buy-in of the JITPPL members. www.jaipurbloc.com Combination of action research and capacity building The project conducts action research to set sector-wide best practice standards for environment compliances and improvements in health and safety for crafts and textile workers. The research on low cost technology benefits additional 14textile clusters across India. Piloting low cost technology solutions included interactive workshops and feedback sessions. Over 30 textile parks will benefit from the low cost technology solutions and other project learning through Toolkit for Sustainable Textile Production (TSTP). Research based Policy Recommendations The project conducted a baseline study to assess the environmental, occupational health and safety issues (OHS). Under the Policy advocacy component, recommendations have been submitted to the Planning Commission, which have been incorporated in the draft 12th Plan (2012-2017). The project maximizes impact by educating policy makers and business enterprises on the measures that are required for controlling environmental pollution. Policy papers on water conservation and effluent treatment record evidences for change and are disseminated directly to decision and policy makers and also through seminars and consultations. With the SWITCH-Asia Programme we have imparted correct significant information, guidelines and researched toolkits for comprehensive forward and backward linkages to M/SMEs and grass-root level sector contributors, to understand and follow social & environmentally sustainable production methods. The researched and experimented cleaner production processes and its dissemination to the focused community sensitized them for adoption and just use of resources. The project not only advocates rights and entitlements for the sector but also aims at advocating effective policy level amendments. Ravi Kharka, Project Manager

results Outreach ensured The project will benefit 14 other craft clusters in India and over 500 textile related SMEs in Rajasthan where block printing is predominant; craft clusters will benefit from research on low cost technology, sharing of learning and opportunities for replication. In addition, more than 30 SITPs (1844 SMEs) from all parts of India, will benefit from the knowledge and resources generated under this project. Data available for Decision making A detailed field-based baseline study was done to assess the environmental, occupational health and safety (OHS) issues and their impacts on the local communities. Based on extensive discussions held with various stakeholders the project also prepared a manual on OHS. The manual provides recommendations for SMEs and artisans on OHS measures to follow during production, contributing to sustainable production practices. Market research enabled strategizing The project also conducted market research, looked at the standards for environment friendly products and the market potential of such products within India and beyond. The study laid the groundwork for formulating effective marketing strategies for eco-friendly products in domestic and international markets. To help the manufacturers respond to increasing demand for green products, a market dissemination workshop was conducted to sensitise entrepreneurs about design, pricing, standards, certification and labelling of the eco-friendly products. Sanganer Block printing Industry was initially a home based craft with natural colours. However, with the introduction of chemical dyes in early 60s the craft lost the tradition of natural dyeing. There was a considerable increase in the amount of effluent in the community because of the lack of knowledge of using chemical dyes. This project will not only give a new energy and direction to continue this craft in cleaner manner but also will be a role model for similar craft based Industries. As a printer exporter, I feel that it s our duty to contribute to this Industry which employs so many craftsmen. This project will certainly make the craftsman proud of his/her profession as it will get international exposure and thus encourage the younger generation to get motivated to respect the hand crafted textiles. Vikram Joshi, textile technologist and Owner Rangsutra (SME) Branding paves the way for organic textiles Research revealed 70 different certification schemes available for textiles. Especially due to high cost of such labels, the textile manufactures instead develop an umbrella brand that communicates the positive aspects and environmental friendliness of the park and the textiles produced in the park. The brand connects the producer to the consumer. The umbrella brand will be disseminated via trade fair show, trade journals and videos. Establishing a strong supply chain will be crucial, with each stage examined and designed for best environmental performance. Social criteria. will also play an important part for sustainability. Trigger to re-think tradition A toolkit on Sustainable Textile Production is made available for at least 30 Textile Parks (1,844 SMEs) approved by the Government. The activities under this programme will lead the stakeholders to rethink and revamp the actions contributing to SCP of textile leveraging the traditional methods and art without compromising the after effects on environment. Best practice contributing towards the process of SCP are documented and used to be replicated by M/SMEs at individual and SITP level.

IMPACT SHEET SWITCH-Asia project Sustainable Textiles for Sustainable Development (SusTex) impact in numbers economic impact Training courses completed for 1000 artisans (including block printers) 75% placement is ensured for the trained artisans Minimum wages is ensured to the artisans & workers in the JITPPL 20% increase in sales both in domestic and international market for sustainable textiles Supporting 03 M/SMEs with SETP technology & setting-up ensured running of their businesses and complying with regulatory framework at low cost environmental impact With the Common Effluent Treatment plant, 80% recycling of effluent (waste water) is ensured with Zero Liquid Discharge, in the Textile Park Recycling of the water and rainwater harvesting at the park will lead to huge impact in terms of just use of ground water resources At least 25% of 500 SMEs understand environmentally sustainable production technology and practices 100% eco-friendly products are manufactured in the Model Textile Park The project has established 02 low cost zero liquid discharging SETPs with 80% water recycling capacity social impact 500 SMEs are aware of health and safety issues, and are aware of appropriate tools/ equipments/safe working conditions for artisans and workers OHS Manual & Tool kits distributed to artisans and SMEs in 14 textile craft clusters. With the OHS toolkits distribution and awareness, susceptibility to disease burden is reduced in around 2000 artisans in 14 textile craft clusters With social water recycling technological implementation (SETPs) around 200 household will have access to clean drinking water Regular minimum wages ensured socio-economic well-being of the workers and artisans in JITPPL Engagement of target group The project provides researched solutions for eco-friendly processes to 500 block printing SMEs in Rajasthan 16 Textile Craft Clusters in 7 States of India and about 3200 Artisans and M/SMEs are directly involved in project dissemination, awareness and researches around project mandates 20 SME s from Associate JITPPL have been directly involved in trainings, design workshops etc 30+ Government Approved Textile Parks (SITPs) around 1800 M/SMEs will be benefited by the dissemination activities Policy Linkages 704 SMEs participated in the second level of Policy Advocacy and Dissemination Workshops across 7 clusters in 5 states 2 State Level Advocacy workshops and 1 National Level Consultation with multistakeholder participation are planned The recommendations on Environment, Social Security and OHS are included in the Final Working Group Report of Twelfth Five Year Plan (12th FYP - 2012 2017) for Handicraft & Handloom Sector, which is subject to final approval from Planning Commission & Finance Ministry Project Partner AIACA has representations in the 12th FYP working group committee, on handloom and handicrafts Two Policy Briefs on Environment and SITP Scheme prepared for further refinement of relevant regulatory framework

Jaipur India Legend Eligible countries where SWITCH-Asia projects are implemented Eligible Asian countries for the SWITCH-Asia programme Non-eligible Asian countries for the SWITCH-Asia Programme Project implementation area City Region Country The boundaries shown on this map do not imply on the part of the European Union any judgment on the legal status of any territory or the endorsement or acceptance of such boundaries. Objectives The objective of the SWITCH-Asia SusTex is to promote the production and consumption of eco-friendly textiles and improve employment and working conditions of artisans and their communities. Duration 01/2009-07/2013 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Project Total Budget: EUR 2,091,181 (EU contribution: 80%) PROJect CONTACT Ms Neeti Malhotra Traidcraft Exchange Kingsway, Team Valley, Gateshead, Tyne & Wear, NE 11 ONE, UK Email: neetim@traidcraft.org Telephone: +91 98 10 01 25 96 Fax: +44-191 -4 91 03 91 Mrs Amita Puri AIACA 18 Community Centre, 3rd Floor, East of Kailash New Delhi 110065 Email: amita@aiacaonline.org Telephone: +91-11 -26 41 64 92-94 Fax: +91-11 -26 41 64 91 PROJect CONSORTIUM Traidcraft Exchange (TX), United Kingdom All India Artisans and Craftworkers Association (AIACA ) Consortium of Textile Exporters (COTEX ), India