S. E. Brazil November 2011 In mid November 2011, four intrepid birders from the GBC (Gareth Jenkins, Mike Wheeler, Dave Bush and me) set off for the Serra dos Tucanos lodge in Rio de Janeiro State. We managed to get a direct flight from Heathrow to Rio. The journey time was around 11 hours. Surprisingly the time difference was only 2 hours, taking into account the fact that Rio, like the UK, has daylight saving. We arrived late at night during a tremendous rainstorm. We had organised a taxi to pick us up at the airport. As we were delayed by over an hour and had some problems getting through passport control, we were relieved to find our driver, Nelson, waiting for us. Nelson was of Japanese origin and only spoke Japanese and Portuguese. Dave speaks fluent Spanish and managed to communicate a little. Some 2 hours later, we arrived at the lodge, our home for the next 12 days. The lodge is situated in the Atlantic rain forest, a rapidly diminishing habitat. It is at 300m a.s.l., meaning temperatures were cooler than Rio. (In fact the temperatures were well below expected figures for the majority of our stay.) Serra dos Tucanos Lodge The lodge grounds November 14 th Birding began the next morning. We concentrated on the bird feeders in the lodge grounds. Several bird tables were piled high with bananas and mangoes and attracted a good variety of birds. There were also 10 humming bird feeders. Fortunately the lodge has produced a small field guide with illustrations of all the birds that are encountered in the grounds and on their various excursions. It was quite expensive ( 20) but proved invaluable. Lugging round the Birds of Brazil by Ber van Perlo, wasn t a great prospect. The most obvious birds were the hummers. The most numerous were the Black Jacobins. Others that we encountered were Sombre Hummingbird, Saw-billed Hermit, Swallow-tailed Hummingbird and Violet-capped Hummingbird. We puzzled over a small hummer that briefly alighted on the wires. It was an Amethyst Woodstar, the only sighting we had of this species. These birds were stunned as a result of flying in to windows of the lodge. On the left is a Saw-billed Hermit and on the right a Black Jacobin both survived.
On the feeders the main species were tanagers and euphonias. Most were extremely brightly coloured and quite confiding. The commonest was the Green-headed Tanager, a spectacular looking bird whose shaggy plumage meant that the light reflected from it. Photos don t really do it justice. Brazilian Tanager Green-headed Tanager Saffron Finch with Orange-bellied Euphonia in background A Belgian birder got us on to a Blond-crested Woodpecker on the high level feeder - an incredible bird, undoubtedly the model for Woody Woodpecker. Unfortunately I didn t get a photo but there are lots on the Serra dos Tucanos website. The other speciality of the lodge is the Spot-billed Toucanet. This species proved quite elusive but we did eventually get good views. Also in the grounds were several thrush species Rufous-bellied, Creamy-bellied and Pale breasted. In addition Shiny Cowbirds and Great Kiskadees were quite numerous and a Slaty-breasted Wood Rail was very tame. Two species of Parrots were regular, albeit noisy visitors. White-collared Swifts and Blue & White Swallows were present every day. Slaty-breasted Wood Rail Plain Parakeet Rufous-breated Thrush In the afternoon, our guide, Cirilo, led us along one of the forest trails. Birding in the rain forest is far from easy. Most birds were either skulking on the forest floor or up in the canopy. The guide s knowledge of the calls enabled us to connect with many new species. A full list can be found at the end of this article. The highlights here were Grey-hooded Atilla, Crescent-chested Puffbird and a very confiding Black-cheeked Gnateater. A Surucua Trogon gave excellent views. Our only sighting of Long-billed Wren was on this trail. November 15 th Two forest trails the Theodore and Cedae Trails, were the venues on our second day of birding, the former being very boggy. The majority of the birds were skulkers. On the Theodore Trail we encountered both Ferruginous and Bertoni s Antbirds in the same location. The two species are virtually identical, one being primarily an upland species. It was a good job our guide was on hand. Perhaps the
most difficult birds to see on this trail were Slaty Bristlefront and Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper. We encountered a new hummer a Scale-throated Hermit. Our second Trogon of the trip, a Black-throated was spotted sitting silently on a branch, as is typical of this group. In the afternoon we walked the Cedae Trail, where we saw the brilliantly named Brassy-breasted and Black-goggled Tanagers. One of the last birds of the day was Uniform Finch, this being the only time we saw this species. November 16 th We woke to be greeted by persistent, heavy rain. It was decided to head for the Regua Wetlands, where there was a bird hide. It made a change to be birding around the shore of a reservoir. Three Egret species were seen on route Snowy, Cattle and Great White. Another species seen en route was a Burrowing Owl, which regularly sat on top of a telegraph pole outside the bus station. At the reservoir we saw Greater and Smooth-billed Anis, Rufous-capped Jacamar, Southern and Yellow-headed Caracaras, Rufous and Tail-banded Horneros, Masked Water-Tyrant and White-headed Marsh-Tyrant. Regua Wetlands On the water were Purple Gallinules and Wattled Jacanas, together with Brazilian Teal, Pied-billed and Least Grebes and two species of Whistling Ducks. Wattled Jacana Purple Gallinule There were three heron species roosting in the trees Black-capped Night, Whistling and Striated. In the water were several Caymen, silently gliding through the weedy fringes. The rain eventually forced us back to the lodge. This however proved a bonus as the bird feeders were exceptionally busy during heavy rain. Our only encounter with Rufous-capped Motmot was during one of these downpours.
November 17 th Our itinerary had been disrupted by the rain of the previous day. Today we headed for the high level trails. The scenery here was very different, with more open vistas. Consequently the bird species differed. For me, the highlight here was the Red-legged Sereima which responded to the guide s tape by charging at us. This species is like a mini ostrich. I just managed to grab a picture as it trotted by. Red-legged Seriema The high level trail Unfortunately the mist descended, making birding quite difficult. The following pictures illustrate the problem. A real pity because the Cotinga was a stunning looking bird. Savanna Hawk Swallow-tailed Cotinga Eventually the mist cleared, enabling us to pick up species such as White Woodpecker, Campo Flicker, Plovercrest, Hooded Siskin and Velvety-Black Tyrant, as well as the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow. The afternoon saw us go even higher. Here the highlights were Black & Gold Cotinga, Green-winged Saltator and the now extremely rare Grey-winged Cotinga. On our return journey we stopped off at the Maca de Cima Trail where the Barethroated Bellbird had set up territory. The stunning white male bird was quite a sight as it sat on top of a tall tree giving its far reaching ringing call.
November 18 th We visited the Serra dos Orgaos, a delightful area with a raised canopy boardwalk. Birding reverted to squinting through dense forest foliage. The first bird of note was a Yellow-throated Woodpecker (alternative name is White-browed). A Lesser Woodcreeper showed well and a Giant Antshrike was quite a sight. Perhaps the most spectacular bird was yet another woodcreeper, the Black-billed Scythebill. The long curving bill seemed to be as long as the body of the bird. An exciting sighting was a Three-toed Sloth clutching a youngster (sorry I don t know what a young sloth is called). Serra dos Orgaos National Park November 19 th At Portao Azul we saw a Dusky-legged Guan, a huge turkey like bird, crashing through the canopy. A sighting of a pair of Half-collared Sparrows was a treat, as was yet another tanager - the Magpie Tanager. It is aptly named. From a distance you could easily mistake it for our Magpie. On local farmland we encountered Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Black-capped Donacobious, Chestnut-capped Blackbird and a distant Black-necked Aracari - a small toucan. Other highlights were Three-toed Jacamar, White-eared Puffbird, White-tailed Hawk and American Kestrel. A further hummer made an appearance - the Planalto Hermit with its long tail and rufous upper-tail coverts. November 20 th Non birding day sightseeing in Rio November 21st On a return visit to the high level area we saw a couple more tanagers Fawnbreasted and Chestnut-headed. A strange swallow-like bird caused some confusion at first. It was, in fact, a Cliff Flycatcher. On top of some distant trees a pair of Shear-tailed Grey-Tyrants was quite a sight as was the Orange-eyed Thornbird. (alternative name is Red-eyed). At one point we encountered a trail of ants which attracted lots of birds. Our only White-necked Thrush of the trip was seen here. A Burrowing Owl was found outside its burrow. On our return journey a Capybara was an unusual sighting on the roadside.
Burrowing Owl chick November 22 nd A return to the wetlands saw much better weather. A Rufescent Tiger-Heron posed nicely opposite the hide, although a Capped Heron wasn t so obliging. Perhaps the most unexpected sight was Masked Duck. Having seen this species skulking in reeds in Trinidad, I was astonished to see about 60 of them. Rufescent Tiger-Heron Masked Duck Hiding in the undergrowth was a group of about 22 Capybara On the lodge forest trails in the afternoon a Tropical Parula was a welcome sight. Other new birds were Crested Becard, Flame-crested Tanager and Black Hawk-Eagle.
November 23 rd On yet another very wet day we were not expecting to see much but were mistaken. Having found some shelter we were able to scan the local fields. A Chopi Blackbird was the first new bird. A White-rumped Monjita did a good impression of a Wheatear. A Lesser-Yellow Headed Vulture passed close overhead and a Rufous-fronted Thornbird was popping in and out of its enormous nest. November 24 th Only three new birds were added to our list as we spent the day in the lodge grounds - Streaked capped Antwren, Channel-billed Toucan and Versicoloured Emerald. Group total 227 bird species Several other interesting creatures were encountered. Several species of frogs and toads were seen, lots of interesting insects and spiders plus one snake (which I missed) Antlion (as Mike will testify they bite) Owl butterfly Lizard sp. An extremely large Cane Toad Bird list (in alphabetical order) : American Kestrel Amethyst Woodstar Ashy-throated Crake Azure-shouldered Tanager Bananaquit Bare-throated Bellbird Bay-breasted Warbling-Finch Bertoni's Antbird Blach-necked Aracari
Black & Gold Cotinga Black & White Hawk-Eagle Black Hawk-Eagle Black Jacobin Black Vulture Black-billed Scythebill Black-bellied Whistling Duck Black-capped Donacobious Black-capped Night-Heron Black-cheeked Gnateater Black-goggled Tanager Black-throated Trogon Blond-crested Woodpecker Blue & White Swallow Blue Manakin Blue-billed Black Tyrant Blue-black Grassquit Blue-winged Parrotlet Boat-billed Flycatcher Bran-coloured Flycatcher Brasy-breasted Tanager Brazilian Ruby Brazilian Tanager Brazilian Teal Brown-chested Martin Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner Burnished-buff Tanager Burrowing Owl Campo Flicker Capped Heron Cattle Egret Cattle tyrant Cocoi Heron Chalk-browed Mockingbird Channel-billed Toucan Chestnur-capped Blackbird Chestnut bellied euphonia Chestnut-backed Antshrike Chestnut-crowned Becard Chestnut-headed Tanager Chopi Blackbird Cinnamon Tanager Cliff Flycatcher Creamy-bellied Thrush Crescent-chested Puffbird Crested Becard Crested Black-Tyrant Crested Oropendola Diademed Tanager Double-collared Seedeater Dusky-legged Guan Eye-ringed Tody-Flycatcher Fawn-breasted Tanager Ferruginous Antbird Firewood Gatherer Flame-crested Tanager Forked-tailed Flycatcher
Giant Antshrike Glittering-bellied Emerald Golden-crowned Warbler Great Kiskade Great White Egret Greater Ani Green Honeycreeper Green-headed Tanager Greenish Sciffornia Green-winged Saltator Grey-breasted Martin Grey-fronted Dove Grey-headed Tody-Flycatcher Grey-hooded Attila Grey-hooded Flycatcher Grey-rumped Swift Grey-winged Cotinga Guira Cuckoo Half-collared Sparrow Hooded Siskin House Sparrow House Wren Least Grebe Lesser Woodcreeper Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Long-billed Wren Long-tailed Antshrike Long-tailed Tyrant Magnificent Frigatebird Magpie Tanager Maroon-bellied Parakeet Masked Duck Masked Water-Tyrant Moorhen Mottle-cheeked Tyrranulet Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Neotropic Cormorant Ochre-faced Tody-Tyrranulet Olivaceous Elaenia Olivaceous Woodcreeper Olive-green Tanager Orange-bellied Euphonia Orange-eyed Thornbird Pale-breasted Thrush Pale-vented Pigeon Pallid Spinetail Palm Tanager Picazuro Pigeon Pied-billed Grebe Pin-tailed Manakin Plain Antvireo Plain Parakeet Planalto Hermit Planalto Tyrranulet Plovercrest Plumbeous Pigeon Purple Gallinule
Red-legged Seriema Red-necked Tanager Red-rumped Cacique Ringed Kingfisher Roadside Hawk Ruddy Ground-Dove Rufescent Tiger-Heron Rufous-capped Antthrush Rufous Gnateater Rufous Hornero Rufous-backed Antwren Rufous-bellied Thrush Rufous-browed Peppershrike Rufous-capped Antshrike Rufous-capped Motmot Rufous-capped Spinetail Rufous-collared Sparrow Rufous-crowned Greenlet Rufous-fronted Thornbird Rufous-tailed Antthrush Rufous-tailed Jacamar Saffron Finch Savanna Hawk Saw-billed Hermit Scaled antbird Scaled Woodcreeper Scale-throated Hermit Scaly Parrot Scaly-headed Parrot Sepia-capped Flycatcher Serra do Mar Tyrranulet Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper Shear-tailed Grey-Tyrant Shiny Cowbird Short-crested Flycatcher Slaty Bristlefront Slaty-breasted Wood Rail Smooth-billed Ani Snowy Egret Social Flycatcher Sombre Hummingbird Sooty Tyrranulet Southern Beardless Tyrranulet Southern Lapwing Southern Rough-winged Swallow Spix's Spinetail Spot-billed Toucanet Spot-breasted Antvireo Sqirrel Cuckoo Star-throated Antwren Straited Heron Straked Flycatcher Streak-capped Antwren Streaked Xenops Streamer-tailed Tyrant Surucua Trogon Swallow-tailed Cotinga
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird Tail-banded Hornero Three-toed Jacamar Tropical Kingbird Tropical Parula Tropical Screech Owl Turkey Vulture Uniform Finch Variable Antshrike Velvety-black Tyrant Versicoloured Emerald Violaceous Euphonia Violet-capped Woodnymph Wattled Jacana Whiskered Flycatcher Whistling Heron White Woodpecker White-barred Piculet White-billed Antbird White-browed Blackbird White-chinned Sapphire White-collared Foliage-Gleaner White-crested Tyrranulet White-eared Puffbird White-eyed Parakeet White-faced Whistling Duck White-flanked Antwren White-headed Marsh Tyrant White-necked Thrush White-rimmed Warbler White-rumped Monjita White-rumped Swallow White-tailed Hawk White-throated Hummingbird White-throated Spadebill White-throated Woodcreeper White-tipped Dove Yellow Tyrranulet Yellow-backed Tanager Yellow-bellied Elaenia Yellow-browed Woodpecker Yellow-chinned Spinetail Yellow-eared Woodpecker Yellow-headed Caracara Yellowish Pipit Yellow-legged Thush Yellow-olive Flycatcher References : Birds of Brazil Ber van Perlo Birds of Serra dos Tucanos Ber van Perlo & Andy Foster Serra dos Tucanos website Alan Rosney December 2011