Install Windsor Corners

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Install Windsor Corners Tools and Supplies You'll Need 1. Exterior Grade Screws use screws that are long enough to go through the FauxPanel and firmly attach to the wall behind the FauxPanel. We recommend a narrow head screw (such as a #1 Robertson head trim head screw) to make touch-up easier and less noticeable. 2. Construction Adhesive/Glue we recommend either PL Premium Construction Adhesive, PL Premium Advanced 8X Construction Adhesive (which has 8X faster bonding), or Great Stuff Pro. 3. A Saw for cutting panels a circular saw, jig saw, band saw, table saw, or hand saw, it is your preference. Any woodcutting blade used with these saws will work great and cut smooth and easy. 4. Tape Measure. 5. Level. 6. Caulking gun for applying the Adhesive/Glue and Caulk. 7. FauxPanels color coordinated textured caulk. 8. Lumber as needed. 9. Exterior grade plywood as needed. Random Rock Outside Corner 1. Attaching Starter Strip Measure 3" up the wall from the base of the highest point of the floor. Snap a chalk line between two marked points. This will provide 1/4" clearance between bottom of panel and base or floor. If more clearance is required adjust accordingly. Make sure to backset the starter strip from the corner by 1¾". After allowing proper width for accessories, position starter strip with top edge on chalk line and so that "v" is at the bottom of starter strip and away from wall. Attach starter strip with screws on 16" centers or into strong substrate. Check starter strip with level. 2. Installing Random Rock Outside Corners Corners can be finished with a ledger (requires miter cutting) or Ledger Outside Corner pieces. The top of the corner (end with lip on top) should be 1" below the top of flange on the top panel. Dry fit if top panel must be cut horizontally. There are 4 designs, alternate design 1, 2, 3, 4 and repeat if going higher up the wall. Be sure to alternate "left" and right" hand pieces to keep the stagger and break up vertical lines for a more realistic appearance. Slide the corner piece down onto the starter strip snugly and screw the top nailing strip where indicated by the screw guide points. Slide the second corner over the top of the 1st piece and secure as described above. 3. Using the Converter strip for Random Rock Outside Corner Note: If the job requires 2 outside corners to be finished with no breaks between them, when working from the left moving right the final panel piece must be cut and converted to a "male" tongue for proper fit and caulk lines to be maintained. Measure the distance from the last panel tongue to the leading edge of the outside corner. Subtract 3 8" and cut the panel to this length. Turn the panel over and measure in from the cut side by 5/8". Scribe a line down the back. Set the saw blade for 3 8" depth and follow the scribed line. Complete the dado channel in the back using a box knife or chisel. Attach the Converter strip with polyurethane construction adhesive. Make sure the tongue matches in depth and height. After curing, fill any gaps between the panel face and converter piece with caulk. Fill from the back side to ensure a solid line is achieved. Use a putty knife along rock edges to achieve a smooth surface. After it becomes tacky, use touch up kit to paint the exposed edges. Attach the piece as if it were a full panel.

Drystack/Ledgestone Flush Outside Corner Always seat and attach panels tightly together. Note: Pictures are of Drystack, but Ledgestone installation is identical. These instructions cover both outside corners on the right and outside corners on the right and left. Determine which type of wall installation is required. With all installations of these panels, a starter strip in necessary. 1. Installing the Starter Strip Determine the height above ground the bottom of the panels should be (often the highest point of the floor) Measure up 2 ¾" from this point and strike a level line. Attach the top of the starter strip on this line. End the strip 2" from each side of the corner. 2. Paneling a wall with one outside corner on the right. Dry fit the first corner into the starter strip. Secure with screws if necessary. Moving from right to left, dry fit the panels tightly across the wall. Cut the left hand end of the final panel to be flush with the wall or trim piece. Remove the dry fit panels and corner piece. Continue from corner working left to right to finish wall. 3. Paneling a wall with outside corners on the right and left. Working from the left outside corner, seat the 1st panel against the outside corner and down against the starter strip. Dry fit the first corner into the starter strip. Secure with screws if necessary. Measure the distance from the last full panel to the edge of the outside corner. Mark a line for the panel length scribing against the last full panel as shown. Mark a second line for the dado of the back. Cut the panel length using a table saw or compound miter set to 30. Use a box knife to dado out the back of the cut panel to fit over the next panels tongue. Using touch up paint, paint the cut edge of the panel. Slide the panel down and secure as previously described.

Slatestone Outside Corner 1. Installing the Starter Strip Note: Start the 1st run from the outside corner of the wall. Place starter strip top 2 ¾" above the desired starting height of the wall (often the base of the highest point of the floor), stopping the strip 2" from each side of the corner edge. 2. Setting the corner pieces Set the SlateStone outside corner piece against the corner and down against the starter strip. Use the screw guides and place at least 3 screws along the tongue. Place 2 screws in the right lap side of the panel where indicated. 3. Wrapping up Attach the panels working out from each side of the corner as previously described. 4. Note: There are 4 patterns of the SlateStone Outside Corner. 2 Left hand patterns and 2 right hand patterns. Check for the number on the inside of the piece. They are numbered 1 though 4. 5. Alternate left and right hand corners with each row to ensure alternating panels offset and to prevent pattern recognition for a more realistic looking masonry appearance.

Stacked Stone Outside Corner 1. Installing the Starter Strip 2. Setting the corner pieces 3. Wrapping up Note: Start the 1st run from the outside corner of the wall. Place starter strip top 2 ¾" above the desired starting height of the wall (often the base of the highest point of the floor), stopping the strip 2" from each side of the corner edge. Set the Stacked Stone outside corner piece against the corner and down against the starter strip. Use the screw guides and place at least 3 screws along the tongue. Place 2 screws in the right lap side of the panel where indicated. Attach the panels working out from each side of the corner as previously described. 4. Note: There are 4 patterns of the Stacked Stone Outside Corner. 2 Left hand patterns and 2 right hand patterns. Check for the number on the inside of the piece. They are numbered 1 though 4. 5. Alternate left and right hand corners with each row to ensure alternating panels offset and to prevent pattern recognition for a more realistic looking masonry appearance.

Sandstone Flush Outside Corners 1. Install Moisture Barrier Because flush mounted corners allow possible moisture infiltration between the panel and the corner, a moisture barrier is recommended behind the panels and corner extending in a minimum of 4" from ether side of the corner. 2. Locate the Corner Flush mounted outside corners are available in 4 heights. The placement of the corners will depend upon how the top of the corner is terminated. For applications which are over 48 in height, the corner pieces are stackable with the top corner cut to the required height. For wainscot applications the corner is normally capped with a ledger attached to the tongue of the top panel and cut with a compound miter at a 45 angle. In this application the top of the corner should be placed 2 below the top of the tongue on the top panel. 3. Install the Corner The corner has screw guides or dimples to help the installer position the screws using the correct angle. There are screw guides along the sides. All screws are installed at an angle and at a location where they will be concealed. Install two screws through the top and at least 4 on each side. Good quality exterior screws that are a #6 or #8 x 2 1/2" are recommended. 4. Install the Panel Install the rest of the accessories and the panels. The joints between the panels and the corner must be caulked using a good quality caulk to make a water-tight installation. Panel and accessory installation instructions can be found on our Install Guide page. Important: Never leave cut edges exposed. Any deviation from standard install instructions must be made water-tight (Vapor barrier) and sealed with caulk & touch-up paint.

Sandstone/Drystack/Ledgestone Outside Corner Note: Before installing corner, determine how you plan to finish the corner as this will dictate the length of the corner. Corners can be finished with ledger or ledger corners. For ledger finish, the top of the corner (the end with the lip on top) should be 1 3/8" bellow the top of the flange on the top panel. Dry fit if the top panel must be cut horizontally. 1. Cut 6 pieces of plumbers stap approx 6" long. With the corner upside-down so that the "stair-step" blocks are exposed, attach the strap to the top blocks on the left side so that it extends out at a right angle to the corner, do the same to the 3rd block and to the bottom block, then to the same three blocks on the right side. 2. Apply the corner so that the bottom of the corner lines up with the bottom of the first panel and screw through the end of the stap into the structure. You may also wish to glue the corner using polyurethane adhesive. 3. If more than one length of outside corner is required, stack the corners by locking the male end at the top of the corner to the female end on the bottom of the corner.

Sandstone/Drystack/Ledgestone Inside Corner Note: Determine how you plan to finish the corner as this will dictate the length of the corner. Corners can be finished with ledger or ledger corners. For ledger finish, the top of the corner (the end with the lip on top) should be 1 5/8 below the top of the flange on the top panel. Dry fit if the top panel must be cut horizontally. 1. Position your corner so that the bottom of the corner will be flush with the bottom of the bottom panel. Screw through the recessed channel at the top, bottom and middle of each side of the corner using at least a 4 ½ screw. 2. If more than one length of outside corner is required, stack the corners by locking the male end at the top of the corner to the female end on the bottom of the corner. Important Info... To ensure that the panels are oriented properly -- the tongue portion of the panel is on top of the panel, and the groove portion of the panel is on the bottom. All joints, including miters, should be glued and caulked. The panels may require additional shimming and trimming for proper alignment. Be sure to obey all safety rules and recommendations set forth by tool manufacturers. Always follow any, and all, local, state, and federal building codes. Always comply with any specified clearances set forth by the manufactures of stoves, fireplaces, furnaces, and any other heat sources, as well.