.Style, function and loads of compliments That s what the Stella Sling Bag brings!! Supplies: 1/2 Yard Main Print (Outside of wallet, Outside of pockets, optional strap, etc..) 5/8 Yard Accent Print (Lining of wallet, Lining of pockets, etc..) Fat Eighth or Scrap (5 x 12 ) for outer band Supplies: 2 Fat Quarters Or 5 Fat Quarters - Scraps will will make work the too! entire (*See wallet! inside for details*) 1/4 yard (or Scraps) Pellon Decor Bond 44 W fusible interfacing (1) 2 Piece Metal Wallet Frame 7 ½ or 8 W Extra Small Phillips Head Screwdriver (1) 7 All Purpose polyester zipper -Longer is ok too - they can be cut! 1/4"W Lite Steam-A-Seam 2 Iron-On Double Stick Fusible Tape (for zipper) Matching thread All usual sewing/quilting supplies including pins, rotary cutter, ruler, mat, pencil, seam ripper, etc Sewing Machine with quarter inch foot & zipper foot (or a foo 5/8 Yard Pellon Décor Bond Fusible Medium Weight Interfacing 1/4 Yard Pellon Fusible Fleece Or Batting Scrap Or Soft and Stable (2) 14 or longer Plastic Zipper for zippered pockets (1) 2 Piece Metal Diva Wallet Frame 7 ½ & Small screwdriver Matching thread/bobbin for Topstitching Sewing Machine with 1/4 foot & Jeans needle 90/14 (A walking foot is also helpful for some steps!) Strong Glue (such as E600 or Gutermann HT2) for frame Clover Binding Clips are extremely helpful All usual sewing/quilting supplies including fray check, pins, rotary cutter, ruler, mat, pencil, seam ripper, etc. Optional: (2) Jump Rings or D-Rings + Chain for purse option Optional: Ribbon for accent I love to use Renaissance Ribbons! Use as a Prima Diva Clutch Wallet Purse #824 Pattern & instructions are for personal use only. Please do not copy or distribute. Finished products made from these instructions may not be sold without permission. No mass production allowed. Sew Many Creations 2015 Use it as a wallet. Add a wrist strap to make it a clutch. Add loops & a chain to create a purse. Fabrics Shown (Clockwise from top): Tula Pink Elizabeth with Cotton & Steel Basics and Optional Shoulder Chain, Tula Pink Moonshine with Cotton & Steel Basics and Optional Wrist Strap and Cotton & Steel August #primadivaclutch #primadivawallet www.sewmanycreationsny.com
All instructions are based on using 44/45 wide 100% cotton quilt-weight fabrics and the specific supplies listed that I prefer to use. Heavy/decorator weight fabrics, light weight satins & other synthetic materials, metal zippers, non-fusible interfacing, etc. can all be used at your own discretion. Some alterations to instructions may be necessary. I recommend using the suggested supplies for your first try until you are comfortable with the techniques. Please read supply list and all instructions carefully before making your Prima Diva Clutch Wallet. I highly recommend non-directional fabrics for the majority of this project! The outside is ok! W = Width of piece L = Length or height of piece * = Piece will have interfacing Cutting: From Main Print cut (1) 8 ¼ W x 12 L strip for Outside Front* (For directional fabric cut two 8 ¼ x 6 ¼, sew, press open) (2) 4 W x 12 L strips for Outside of Side Panels* (2) 7 ½ W x 9 L strips for Outside of Zippered Pockets* (1) 7 ½ W x 7 L strip for Outside of Card Pocket Base* (2) 7 ½ W x 4 L strips for card pockets (2) 8 ¼ W x 5 L for Outside of End Pockets* From Accent Print cut (1) 8 ¼ W x 12 L strip for Wallet Lining* (2) 4 W x 12 L strips for Lining of Side Panels (2) 7 ½ W x 9 L strips for Lining of Zippered Pockets (1) 7 ½ W x 7 L strip for Lining of Card Pocket Base (2) 7 ½ W x 4 L strips for card pockets (1) 7 ½ Square for card pocket (2) 8 ¼ W x 5 L for Lining of End Pockets For Outside Band cut: (1) 5 W x 12 L strip* For Optional Wrist Strap cut: (1) 2 W x 18 L strip For Optional Chain Tabs cut: (1) 2 W x 8 L strip Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Page 1 From Fusible Interfacing cut: (2) 8 ¼ W x 12 L strip for Outside Front & Lining (2) 4 W x 12 L strips for Outside of Side Panels (2) 7 ½ W x 9 L strips for Outside of Zippered Pockets (1) 7 ½ W x 7 L strip for Outside of Card Pocket Base (2) 8 ¼ W x 5 L for Outside of End Pockets (1) 5 W x 12 L for Outside Band From Fusible Batting OR Batting Scrap OR Soft and Stable cut: (1) 7 ¼ W x 12 L strip for Outside Front Note: The front & lining of this wallet are both cut 8 ¼ W rather than 8 for a couple reasons. First, I like the wallet to fit snuggly into the frame. I found that when I cut it at 8 that the frame sometimes had a gap. Also, I like to use a slightly fat ¼ seam allowance rather than a scant ¼ since wallets get so much use. This wallet can be made using fat quarters, fat eighths, scraps or a combination of any of these. I suggest that no matter what you decide for fabrics that you label your pieces. This will save you time and prevent you from cutting too many (or not enough) pieces!
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Page 2 There are 2 templates included with this pattern. I recommend making a photocopy and holding on to the originals so you always have a copy with the pattern. I like to copy mine on cardstock or template plastic for durability. Special Terms used in this pattern: Topstitching Longer Length stitch (My standard length is 2.2 so for me I topstitch with a 3.0 length) Within Seam Allowance When sewing the end pockets for example, you will need to secure them in place with stitching that will NOT be seen later. The stitches should be within the seam allowance or less than ¼. It doesn t have to be neat or perfect since no one will see it when the wallet is done. IMPORTANT TIP: Whenever you are sewing a piece of fabric with interfacing and a piece without interfacing, put the piece with interfacing on the top. This will prevent stretching. Step 1 Fusing Begin by ironing the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the outside front, 2 outsides of side panels, 2 zippered pocket outsides, outside of card pocket base, 2 outsides of end pockets, wallet lining and the outside band. Refer back to the cutting directions each piece with a * will have interfacing. I recommend you iron from the front first then from the back (if necessary) for a few reasons: #1 fusible interfacing + hot iron = sticky mess. Mistakes happen sometimes but I m sure you d rather iron the interfacing to the ironing board than to your iron. And #2 it decreases the chance of wrinkles in your fabric if you iron from the front. Iron well, concentrating on the corners and edges. Step 2 Preparing the Zippered Pockets The finished wallet has 2 total zippered pockets, however we will create them by only making one unit. To make this unit you will need the (2) interfaced 7 ½ x 9 outside zippered pieces, (2) inside 7 ½ x 9 zippered pieces and the (2) 14 zippers. Before we begin, you will want to mark the center of one of the interfaced outside pieces (across the 7 ½ width). Measure out ½ in either direction from this line and mark as well. These 3 lines will be important for a later step. I use zippers that are larger than I need for the finished pockets because it makes sewing & pressing much easier. Begin by laying a zipper on each 7 ½ W end of one of the interfaced outside pieces, right sides together with edges lined up. I roughly center the zipper it doesn t have to be perfect! Next, place one of the lining pieces right sides together with the outside creating a sandwich. The zipper should be sandwiched in between the 2 fabric layers. Repeat on the opposite end with the other zipper. Be sure to have both zippers going in the same direction. Sew ¼ from the edge of the zipper. Turn right sides out and press. Repeat this step with the remaining outside piece of fabric and lining piece of fabric on the other half of each zipper. The outsides should be placed right sides together and the linings should be right sides together. Note: The pocket may bunch a little when adding the last 2 pieces. This will flatten right out once the piece is complete. Turn right sides out and press. Unzip the zippers and topstitch ¼ on from each edge. Unzip each of the zippers about half way so the pull in inside the pocket and not hanging off the edge. Close the sides of the zippered pocket within seam allowance and trim zipper ends even with fabric. Don t worry that there are raw edges here
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 3 you will not see them when the bag is done. The most important thing is the make sure the pockets is completely closed so items inside won t fall out. Set aside when finished. 9 L 7 ½ W ½ Center ½ Place lining right sides together with outside. Place outsides right sides together on opposite side of zipper. The long zippers making pressing easier. Place outside and zipper right sides together, one zipper on each 7 ½ end. Roughly center the zippers They don t have to be perfect! Sew ¼ along each edge. Place lining right sides together too. Turn right sides out and press. Don t worry if it doesn t lay flat - it will when it s done! Topstitch 1/4 from each edge. Move zipper pull inside pocket, away from edge. Sew sides closed within seam allowance. Trim zipper ends
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 4 Step 3 Preparing the Card Pocket Unit To create the center card pocket unit you will need your 7 x 7 ½ interfaced outside card pocket base, 7 x 7 ½ inside card pocket base, (4) 4 x 7 ½ card pockets and the 7 ½ square card pocket. First you ll prepare the individual card pockets. Fold each of the 4 x 7 ½ strips wrong sides together and press. They should now measure 2 H x 7 ½ W. Topstitch ¼ from each folded edge. The 7 ½ square will also become a card pocket. First fold it in half right sides together and sew ¼ from the raw edge. Press the seam open and turn right sides out. The seam that you created should be roughly centered (It doesn t have to be perfect!). Topstitch ¼ from each folded edge. I like to give each of these 5 pockets a final press with starch. Fold pockets in half, wrong sides together and press. Topstitch ¼ from each folded edge. Sew 7 ½ square right sides together and press seam open. Topstitch ¼ from each folded edge. Next you ll need to prep the base for your pockets. First, mark the center of the outside with a pencil or pen (across the 7 ½ width of the pocket) - this will be helpful for a later step and this line will be covered (I use a ballpoint pen). Place the interfaced outside 7 x 7 ½ base piece on top of the 7 x 7 ½ lining piece right sides together. Sew along both of the 7 ½ ends ¼ from each edge. Turn right sides out and press. Topstitch ¼ from each folded edge. Mark the center of the pocket base across the 7 ½ width of piece. Place outside and lining right sides together and sew across both 7 ½ W ends. Topstitch folded edges. Ends still have raw edges. Step 4 Assembling the Card Pocket Unit (A walking foot is helpful for this step!) Now that the pockets and base are complete you can begin assembling the card pocket unit. Note: All card pockets are placed one at a time on the right side of the base with the interfaced fabric facing up. Begin with a small (2 x 7 ½ ) card pocket and place ½ down from the folded edge of the base. Sew ¼ from the raw edge of the card pocket. Repeat on the opposite side. Next, add another card pocket ½ down from the first one. Stitch ¼ from the raw edge of the card pocket. Repeat on the opposite side. To add the last card pocket (larger pocket) you will first need to first fold it half to the find the center and make a crease or mark. Place the card pocket (seam side down) on top of the
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 5 base aligning the crease with the center mark you made in step 3. Stitch the pocket down in the center crease. Place pocket ½ from folded edge. Pocket is placed on interfaced piece. Stitch ¼ from raw edge. Add the next pocket ½ from first pocket. Repeat on opposite side. Stitch ¼ from raw edge. Align center mark of large pocket with center mark of base. Seam side on pocket should be down. Repeat on opposite side. Stitch down center. To keep your cards from falling out you will next need to stitch the pockets down the center, dividing them into 2. Measure 3 ¾ in from either of the raw edges (or fold in half) and make a mark. Begin stitching from the middle and work your way up to the top of the pockets on one side. Pivot back down and continue stitching to the top of the other pockets. Pivot again and stitch back down to where you began. Note: You only need to stitch to the top of the pockets, not the top of the base. By starting and ending in the middle and stitching twice through each set of pockets you will make them strong and extra secure. Lastly, after sewing the center of the pockets down you want to secure the edges. Stitch within the seam allowance along each edge. Trim pockets if necessary. Measure 3 ¾ from the edge and mark the center. Start stitching in the center of the pocket, not the top of the pockets. Stitch to the top of the pockets, pivot back down and stitch to the top of the opposite side. Start and stop in the middle. Step 5 Preparing the Open End Pockets For these pockets you will need the (2) 8 ¼ x 5 outside interfaced pieces, (2) 8 ¼ x 5 inside pieces and Template A. Begin by cutting the top of each of the 4 pieces with the curved template. Next, place an outside and lining piece right sides together and pin. Sew across the bottom as well as the curved top you are sewing along the 8 ¼ edges. Before turning right sides out, clip the curves to help the pocket lay flatter. Press the pocket and topstitch ¼ from the curved edge (top). The short ends will still have raw edges. Repeat to create 2 pockets.
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 6 Cut all 4 pieces with Template A. Sew along bottom & curved top. Clip curve before turning Press and topstitch along top only. Step 6 Preparing the Outside Band The outside of this clutch has a decorative accent band. To prepare the band, turn the 5 x 12 piece over so the interfacing side is facing up. Measure 1 ¼ from each long side and make a mark. Tip: I use a ballpoint pen for this step. I find that it helps to score the fabric and make a smoother edge when turned. Plus no one will see it when it s done! Fold each side on the lines you drew, interfacing to interfacing, so you have a band with clean folded edges. The short ends will still have raw edges. The band should measure 2 ½ x 12. Topstitch along each of the long edges. I like to stitch ¼ from each edge now and 1/8 from the edges when I add it to the outside wallet front (Step 7). You can stitch anywhere you like. If you would like to add a contrasting fabric or ribbon to the band you can do that now as well. Measure 1 ¼ from each side. Press each side in on the lines, interfacing side together Add ribbons or other fabrics to your band. Step 7 Adding the Band to the Wallet Front Now that you have prepared the accent band you can add it to your wallet front. You will need your 8 ¼ x 12 interfaced outside front and the band you created in Step 6. Fold the wallet front in half the long way to find the center. Make a mark or crease. Find the center of the band as well and place on top of the wallet front. Topstitch 1/8 from each edge to secure in place. Tip: If you have a stitch-inthe-ditch foot or an edge-joining foot with a center metal guide you can use this to sew evenly along your edges. Just move your needle position over to the left of the guide. You can also add extra topstitching on the wallet front or band if you like. This is a great place to use some of those decorative stitches that your machine has! Center band on wallet front & pin in place. Stitch 1/8 from each edge to secure in place. I use my edge/joining foot to stitch evenly, close to the edge.
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 7 Step 8 Preparing the Optional Wrist Strap or Chain Tabs If you are NOT adding a strap or chain to your wallet please move on to Step 9! Since you already have your machine set up for 1/8 edge stitching, this is a great time to prepare the optional strap or chain tabs. You will prepare either of these options the same way. Fold the 2 W strip (18 L for strap and 8 L for tabs) in half the long way and press, wrong sides together. Next, open it up and fold each of the raw edges in towards the center fold and press again. Fold in half & press one more time so you have clean edges along the long sides. Topstitch approximately 1/8 from each long edge. Your strap should now measure ½ W. You will need to trim the chain tabs in half so each one measures 4 L. The wrist strap can be shortened if you like but I prefer this length for me. Try it out and see what works for you! Fold strip in half, wrong sides together & press. Press sides in towards center. Press closed. Topstitch 1/8 from each edge. Step 9 Preparing the Side Panels The last pieces of this wallet that you will need to prep before assembling are the 2 side panels. You will need the (2) 4 x 12 interfaced outside pieces, (2) 4 x 12 lining pieces and Template B. Begin by cutting each of the 4 pieces using the angled template as shown below. You will also want to draw the lines from template onto the interfacing side of the outside pieces. These lines will be important for the assembly of the wallet. Place one of the outsides right sides together with a lining piece. Sew ¼ seam along the angled edges and top (see below) leaving the bottom open. You should have 3 lines drawn on each side panel one centered and 2 drawn at an angle. Fold on each of these lines (interfacing side in) and press. Clip the corners to remove some of the excess fabric and turn right sides out. Press and topstitch ¼ along the edge, again leaving the bottom open (bottom has raw edges). Repeat with remaining pieces to create 2 side panels. Transfer the lines from the template. Turn right sides out & press. Bottom still has raw edges. Place right sides together Stitch ¼ along sides & top. Clip corners. Before turning right sides out, press on lines. Topstitch ¼ along sides & top.
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 8 Step 10 Adding the Open End Pockets Begin by marking the lining piece so you have some reference lines for sewing all your pockets. Fold the interfaced 8 ¼ x 12 piece in half and draw a line across the 8 ¼ Wcenter. Measure ½ on either side and draw another line - You should have 3 total lines. Next, place one of the open end pockets that you created in Step 5, lining sides together with the lining piece. The pocket should be 1 from the top edge with the finished (curved) edge of the pocket facing outwards. Stitch ¼ along the bottom of the pocket. Stitch the edges of the pocket down less within seam allowance to hold in place. Repeat on opposite side with other pocket. Find the center of lining & draw a line. Draw a line ½ on either side. Place pocket 1 from top Pin or clip in place. Stitch ¼ along bottom. Step 11 Adding the Zippered pockets In step 2 you created a pocket unit with 2 zippers. Now it s time to add that unit to the lining and create two individual zippered pockets. Place the zippered pocket unit on top of the lining piece, aligning the center line and half inch marks. The pocket should also be centered from the sides approximately 3/8 on each side. Sew on all 3 lines to secure the pocket unit in place. Note: When adding this pocket, it doesn t matter which side faces up or which way the zippers go! 3/8 Align pocket lines & lining lines. Stitch on all 3 lines, through pocket & lining. Step 12 Adding the Card Pockets Next, add the card pocket unit on top of the zippered pockets. Place this unit with the card pockets facing down. Align the center stitching line of the card pockets with the center line of the zippered pocket. Stitch down the center line. Align the center of card pockets with center of zipper pockets/lining. Card pockets are facing down. Sew through center line of card pockets.
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 9 Step 13 Adding the Optional Loops or Wrist Strap (If you are NOT adding a strap or loops move on to Step 14) Optional Chain Loops: Fold each of the 4 L loops you created in Step 8 in half, adding a D-ring or jump ring to each and pin to the top edge of the lining on opposite sides. The loops should be placed 1 in from each side. Stitch several times back and forth, within seam allowance to secure. Optional Wrist Strap: Fold the 18 L strap in half and pin to outside front of wallet, raw edges together. Strap should be placed 1 down from the top and can be added to either the left or right side of the wallet. Stitch several times back and forth, within seam allowance to secure. Loops are 1 from sides, facing lining. When finished the loops will be under the Wrist strap 1 down Step 14 Adding the Side Panels frame. Now that all the pockets are in place you can add the side panels. Place one side panel, lining sides together with the lining piece & match the center crease (from Step 9) with the center mark of the lining. Clip or pin in place Clover binding clips are very helpful for this step. The side panels will not extend all the way to the end of the lining piece. Sew within seam allowance along the edge (less than ¼ ). Repeat on the opposite side with remaining side panel. Side panel is slightly shorter than lining piece. Align the center crease with the center mark on lining. All pockets are sewn in place. Clip both sides in place. View from inside. Press side panels in towards the pockets. Step 15 Adding the Outside of the Wallet Place the outside 8 ¼ x 12 wallet front right sides together with the lining and pockets. Clip or pin place and sew ¼ along each of the long edges. I recommend sewing these seams twice for extra durability and trimming them down a bit to reduce bulk. You will be sewing through the side panels as well but only sewing next to the pockets you will be very close to them but should not sew through them! When done, the only raw edges that are left are the short ends.
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 10 Helpful Tips: If the bulk is too thick for your sewing machine, try using a walking foot. Also, move the zipper pulls towards the middle of the pocket so they re out of the way. Finally, when you re ready to turn the wallet right sides out, try warming it first with an iron to soften the interfacing. For the final press, be sure to press sides in towards the pockets it will look cleaner when done. Place outside front and lining right sides together. Sew both long seams twice and trim to reduce the bulk before turning. Turn right sides out and press. Step 16 Closing the Card Pockets In step 11 you added the card pockets. Before going on to the next step you will need to close them, creating the open center pocket. Fold the sides of the pockets up and stitch closed, less than ¼ from each edge (within seam allowance). You do not want to sew ¼ from each of the edges! It is easiest to sew from the top of the pockets down towards the center. Fold pocket up and sew sides closed. Sew within seam allowance, NOT ¼ Step 17 Sewing the Side Panels to the Pockets Now that all the pockets and side panels are in place you can stitch the side panels to the sides of the pockets. This part can be a little tricky because of the thickness. I suggest going slowly and taking it one pocket at a time clipping or pinning all at once is actually harder! In Step 9 when creating the side panels you also pressed 3 creases into each one. The angled creases on either end will be for the zippered pockets and the center crease will hold the card pockets. Starting with one of the zippered pockets, place the end into the crease and use your Clover clips to hold it in place - Pins can be tricky to get through all these layers! The top of the pocket should be just slightly down from the top of the side panel (keeping all raw edges hidden). Sew from the top of the pocket down as far as you can sew. You do not need to sew all the way to the base of the side panel. Stitch back and forth several times to secure in place. Helpful Tips: If your machine is having a hard time stitching through all these layers, there are a few things you can try: Use a larger needle (Jeans 90/14), increase the stitch length or try a walking foot. When stitching, I also suggest not starting at the very top of the side panel. And matching thread in the top & bobbin will hide any mistakes! Begin sewing a little bit down from the top and stitch as far down as you can. Next, stitch back up towards the top going all the way up this time. By starting just slightly down from the top, the needle will ease through the layers a little easier. Repeat this step with both edges of all 3 pockets.
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 11 Clip one pocket at a time. Clip the next side. Pocket should be slightly lower than side. Stitch as far down as you can. Begin stitching down from top. Finish both sides of the pockets. Step 18 Finishing the Wallet After all the pockets have been sewn you can topstitch the outside edges if you d like. This step is optional since it s very bulky and can be tough to sew through. While I like the look of the topstitching I usually skip this step because I don t find it to be essential to the finished wallet. At this point I also like to add the filler i.e. fusible fleece, batting or Soft and Stable. Slide the filler in between the backside of the lining and wallet front. It may seem weird but I wait until the end to add this because I find that my wallet is easier to turn and looks better when finished. The reason for adding a filler piece is to give the wallet frame screws a little more substance to grab onto. Step 19 Adding the Frame Stitch the raw edges of the ends of the wallet together as close to the edge as possible to make adding the frame easier. There are 2 pieces to the frame: The male half has the clasp part of the frame. The female half has an opening for the clasp to hook into. In order to use the clasp properly you will need to stitch and trim away a bit of fabric from one of the ends of your wallet. Using the female half of the frame and a pencil, trace the opening on the wallet. Trim away the excess fabric and stitch as close to the lines you drew as possible. I like to use fray check here too. The frame is attached with 8 screws as well as some glue for extra durability, especially in the corners. My preferred brand is Gutermann HT2 Glue. Trace the opening & cut. Sew close to edge. Fray check cut out. Congratulations! You re finished!!
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 12 Template A Open End Pocket Cut 2 Outside fabric Cut 2 Lining fabric Cut 2 Fusible Interfacing Prima Diva Clutch Wallet by Sew Many Creations
Sew Many Creations Prima Diva Bag Page 13 Place on Fold Template B Side Panel Cut 2 Outside fabric Cut 2 Lining fabric Cut 2 Fusible Interfacing Prima Diva Clutch Wallet by Sew Many Creations