Page 1 01 Sept 2007 Evo Wing Assembly F1 Evo Assembly Manual Chapter 6
Page 2 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com F-1 Evo Suggested Wing Assembly Methods FIRST EDITION DECEMBER 2004 01 SEPT 2007 EDITION (UPDATES IN RED) Illustrated by the Author Mark Frederick 80 CR 406 Taylor, TX 76574 Editor/Publisher, Cheryl Frederick Additional Contributions: Neil Ditsler, Curtiss Schuetzeberg, Marcus Goetting, Paul & Gerti Vander Schuur, Tom Hall, Eric Hansen, Howard Rhodes, Tom Martin, John Walls, Bob Gross, Eric Henson, Luis Escobar, Brian Rogers, Jim Cash, and many, many others. My thanks to you all! Cover photo by Carsten Selinger, taken from 1943 AT-7 N375VU F1 N84MF flown by Dirk Lohmann All rights reserved. This manual, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form without permission of the author or publisher. PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA COPYRIGHT 2007 TEAM ROCKET LP
Page 3 Notes
Page 4 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com F1 Evo Wing Assembly No jigs or fixtures are necessary to finish the assembly process of the wings. There area few specialized tools that will be handy to have these are detailed in the assy photos, A general explanation of what you are about to do: 1 Machine countersink for #6 leading edge attach screws; remove leading edge; install #6 nutplates at LE attach seam; 2 Re-install LE using only #8 screws; install #6 screws 3 adjust skin profile at aft spar as required 4 Install flap well ribs and fairings 5 Install aileron gap filler strips; install aileron gap seals 6 Cut aileron pushrod hole & install doubler 7 Install inspection cover doublers and covers 8 Install flaps 9 Install ailerons 10 Fit flap pivot bracket fairings 11 Fit wingtips 12 Fitting the spar splice plates will require a.374 and.249 reamers, available thru Cleaveland Tool (800.368.1822) PAINTING FIBERGLASS PARTS: All your fiberglass parts are subject to degradation from exposure to UV rays. Please keep this type of exposure to a minimum! We recommend PPG DP90LF/DP401LF for the first coat on all your composite parts. This is a high grade epoxy primer, and is compatible with the epoxy and vinyl ester parts as a first coat. Our experience has shown the lacquer-based sanding type primers are not optimal for the base coat. We recommend using PPG K36 or Kondar DZ-3 (grey) or DZ-7 (red) for use as a sanding primer ON TOP of the base primer coat if needed (for filling around the rivets etc).
Page 5 Wing assembly STEP ONE IMPORTANT: Before proceeding with the wing assy process, let s get the wing splice plates fitted. The plates are cadmium plated or primed after machining, and the spars are primed, so the attach fastener holes are slightly undersized. 1 temporarily bolt the 4 splice plates to the spar stub on one wing using hardware store 3/8 fasteners in 2 locations on each plate 2 Mark the splice plates TOP/FRONT/FWD SIDE, TOP/AFT/AFT SIDE etc, so they can be re-assembled in the same loca tion and orientation (with the same sides facing fwd or aft as first assembled and reamed). 3 Ream the open holes to proper size (.374 or.249) 4 Insert 2 ea 3/8 close tolerance fasteners in 2 of the reamed holes (should be a 2-finger push fit), tighten nuts 5 ream the remaining holes to size 6 CAREFULLY run a #12, or D, (whichever size is appropriate) size drill bits thru the remaining non-close tolerance holes 7 perform the same operations on the other wing Reaming techniques: We have had good success by PULLING the reamer thru the hole not pushing it as would be the case with a drill bit. Use the lowest available RPM (less the 400 or so) and apply a good cutting oil to the reamer as you proceed. The reaming process can be accomplished on a table for easy access to the spar stubs.
Page 6 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com As delivered, the wings should look like this: the #8 screws at the leading edge attach at the front spar are installed and dimpled as required, and the holes at the joint of the outer leading edge and the inner leading edge are dimpled for the #6 screws. Your task at this point is to prepare and install the countersunk #6 screws along the front spar flange. You will first drill the #6 holes up to size, and machine countersink for installation of the remaining leading edge screws.
Page 7 The skin is machine countersunk (by the builder) for the supplied #6 screws here. The next step is to remove the 3 leading edge sections so you can install the #6 nutplates for the attach screws. Install the #6 nutplates as shown, using the correct length 3 rivets. Re-install the leading edges using the #8 screws (it may be a good idea to machine C/S the dimpled #8 holes in the wing flange check this area for correct profile and make your own determination), and then install the #6 screws. You may find the you will need to touch-up the machine countersinking to make sure the #6 screws are flush with the skin surface. Strive for a very smooth surface in the area of the leading edge and it s attach joint. On some wing sets it may be advisable to take a file as correct the profile of the flange in the areas around the #8 dimples check your wings to see if this will be necessary in your case.
Page 8 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com The finished installation of the leading edge attach fastener nutplates should look like this. This wing is ready for the leading to be final attached. ASSEMBLY TIP: We found traces of fuel tank sealant along the attach flange on the fwd side of the fuel tank. Use an appropriate file to scrape this excess sealant off the flange, to make sure the #6 nutplate rivets are exactly flush, and to also smooth out the dimples for the #8 screws.
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Page 10 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com The wing flap/aileron setup on the Evo begins with the flap being set at it s respective neutral point. Fabricate the tool as shown below (.032 aluminum will work fine), and use it as shown in the lower drawing to assure the flap is actually set at the neutral point. The tool rests on the inboard pivot bracket, and should just touch the trailing edge of the flap when the flap is positioned in its neutral position. You will also use the flap as a template while fitting the flap well to the wing. The aileron and flap are at their respective neutral points when their trailing edges match up very simple!
Page 11 We fabricated a tool that looks like this. Note that the tip of the tool is just touching the TE of the flap in this photo, and that aileron is simply clamped to the outboard edge of the flap to hold it in tis respective neutral position.
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Page 13 IMPORTANT WING QC CHECK POINT: Before beginning the flap well fairing installation, temporarily fit the flap and set it to its neutral position. Check the fit of the upper wing skin to the upper sfc of the flap there should be SLIGHT tension of the flap against the skin, thus forming a good seal at the wing skin TE. Adjust the rear spar flange and upper wing skin as required to get this important detail correct before proceeding. Begin the flap well installations at the root flap pivot. Note there are 2 holes in the pivot that do not have rivets in them the flap well fairing rib is position as shown below, and drilled to the pivot bracket. Position and drill the inboard fairing rib to the inboard pivot bracket as shown. NOTE: the upper flange of all ribs will need to be trimmed where the skin rivets interfere with the flanges (circled). Trim the flanges so there is no interference, and the upper flange fit tight to the lower surface of the upper wing skins. NOTE: Use the pre-drilled holes in the fairing skin as a template to position the remaining ribs to the aft spar
Page 14 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com 2 additional fairing ribs will attach to the open holes in the rear spar doubler (circled). Position the ribs as shown below, and match-drill to the rear spar. 2 rivets per rib will be driven into the rear spar to attach these 2 ribs to the spar.
Page 15 This rib is positioned just inside of the center flap pivot bracket NOTE: 3 pull-type rivets will be used to attach each of the ribs outboard of the aft spar doublers. And this is the tip rib, positioned just at the outboard edge of the upper skin.
Page 16 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com Once the ribs are drilled to the spar, mark and drill the holes that will attach the upper flanges of the ribs to the upper skin. Note that the upper flange on the outboard rib appears to require some trimming. Once the ribs are drilled to the tops kin, again fit the flap and set it in its neutral position to check the fit of the upper skin trailing edge to the flap surface. The skin should touch the surface of the flap with slight tension. You can shim the ribs at the spar, or re-form the skin aft of the ribs to get the proper contact between the upper skin and the upper sfc of the flap. This wing has its ribs drilled, and the technician is getting ready to rivet the ribs in place.
Page 17 The ribs at the spar doubler attach with std hard rivets (MS20470AD4 size); the ribs outboard of the spar doubler will attach to the spar with the supplied AVEX pull-type rivets; the skin attaches to the rib flange using std hard rivets: NAS1097AD3-3.5 is recommended. Machine C/S the upper sfc of the wing skin for these rivets. ASSEMBLY TIP: Use a length of angle clamped close to the fairing/ skin attach area to keep the skin/fairing attach area straight while drilling the fairing to both the ribs and the wing skin. The fairing skin is pre-punched where it attaches to the formed flange in the lower wing skin. Lay the fairing over the flange (holding the fairing tight against the rib flanges too) to use it as a drill guide, drill and cleco this row of holes. Remove the fairing, slide its attach flange behind the flange on the lower skin, and re-cleco the fairing in place. Push the skin tight against the rib flanges and drill thru the prepunched holes into the rib flanges. Once the skin is drilled and clecoed to the ribs, you can drill and cleco the skin to the skin.
Page 18 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com Another pic of the fairing skin in place before drilling. NOTE: the openings for the pivot brackets must be opened up to allow the skin to fit into place. Simply cut to the pre-cut oval holes from the lower edge of the skin. ASSEMBLY TIP: Use a length of angle clamped close to the fairing/skin attach area to keep the skin/fairing attach area straight while drilling the fairing to both the ribs and the wing skin. Once you have the skin clecoed to the lower wing skin, push the skin tightly against the rib flanges and drill thru the existing holes into the rib flanges. Cleco these holes, and you are ready to drill thru the upper flange of the fairing skin into the upper wing skin. Be careful to not push too hard against the upper wing skin while drilling longreach clamps would be a good tool to use here to keep the skin pressed tightly against the fairing skin flange during the drilling process.
Page 19 The outboard edge of the fairing skin will need some minor trimming... Another view of the finish drilled fairing, prior to trimming the outboard edge. The next step is to remove the skin, trim the edge as marked, deburr all holes, and dimple as necessary at the upper flange/upper skin attach. The fairing is attached at the ribs and lower skin using AVEX LP4-3 rivets; use std hard rivets at the upper flange (MS20426AD3-3.5 or NAS1097AD3-3.5). Once all riveting is completed, reinstall the flap at neutral and recheck the upper skin contact. You can tweak the skin aft of the ribs as required to obtain a good fit.
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Page 21 Facing page: The aileron actuator pushrod hole is cut into the outer wing area as shown. Carefully de-burr the edges of the hole. FOLLOWING PAGES: Form a 5/8 flange onto the aft edges of the 2 supplied doublers. Mark the the skin for drilling as shown, using a 1 rivet spacing pattern. Make sure your rivets will have proper ED at the tooling holes on the doublers. Position and clamp the doublers, and drill to #40. De-burr, machine c/s the skin, and rivet in place using NAS1097AD3-3.5 rivets. The finished installation should look much like this (top skin removed for a better view). You will need to bend a flange on the aft area of the doubler as shown.
Page 22 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com Mark the lower wing skin for the aileron actuator rod hole as shown. Drill 2 starter holes using a Unibit, and proceed to cut the hole to the dimensions shown in the drawing. Deburr the hole carefully before fitting the doubler. Mark the doubler attach rivet pattern as shown (1 SP on the rivets be sure to watch ED in the area of the doubler tooling holes). Insert the doubler thru the hole, and clamp in place. Mark the rivet holes onto the doubler, remove and drill.
Page 23 This doubler has been marked for the attach fasteners thru the skin. The technician has marked the holes to be drilled with a centerpunch, and is preparing to drill the attach fastener holes. The doubler has been drilled, and is clecoed in place in preparation for machine countersinking for the NAS1097 rivets to be is as attach fasteners.
Page 24 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com A picture of the finished doubler installation. FACING PAGE The wing inspection panels and their respective doublers are installed as shown. The panels will require custom trimming for each opening strive for 0.040 clearance around the perimeter of each panel. Note that the doublers are formed with one of the sides narrower this narrow side will go towards the fwd side of the opening. Rivet the doublers in using MS20426AD3 or NAS1097AD3 rivets. Install K-1100-08 nutplates into every other hole in the doublers as shown in the photos, and dimple the plates for the MS24693-S50 screws. Fill the unused holes with NAS1097AD3 rivets.
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Page 27 Wing Control System assembly and installation preview drawings
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Page 30 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com This photo shows the inner bellcranks attached to the inner bellcrank pivot brackets. Use the proper AN4 hardware to fasten this assembly to the wing spar web as shown in the photo below. Referencing the assembly drawings on the previous pages, the inboard assemblies are mirror images of each other. AN470AD4 rivets (6 per bearing) are used to attach the flange bearings to the steel brackets. The lever assembly is attached to the spar web using AN4 hardware, Nutplates are installed at the factory for this installation. Refer to the exploded wing control system drawing for proper right-left orientation of the levers.
Page 31 The outer bellcrank pivot brackets are assembled as shown. The 2 flange bearings are riveted to the brackets on the outside of the bracket flanges as shown. Shim the control bellcranks with AN4 washers as shown in the assembly drawings prior to installing the bellcrank/bracket assembly onto the spar web.
Page 32 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com SETTING UP THE AILERON BELLCRANKS Install the bellcrank/bracket assemblies as shown. The neutral point for the outer bellcrank is 100.3 deg, measured as shown. The inner bellcrank is set up at 46.6 deg, again measured as shown. Lock the ailerons at neutral by clamping them to the flaps, and adjust the shorter 4130 tube to obtain the correct setting at the outer bellcrank. Keeping the ailerons locked in their respective neutral positions, adjust the outer tube to obtain the correct angle at the inner bellcrank. In final assembly, you will again clamp the aileron in neutral, and also the stick, and set up the inner aileron pushrod length.
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Page 34 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com INSTALLING THE FLAP PIVOT BRACKET FAIRINGS: First you will trim the flanges to a more even dimension, and allow enough flange for attachment. We recommend trimming to approx. 3/4 all around, and approx. 1/2 at the fwd point. IMPORTANT: Make sure the flaps are fully retracted to their respective neutral positions while fitting these fairings. FITTING THE FLAP PIVOT BRACKET FAIRINGS: As the wing section changes along the span of the flap, the fairings must be custom fitted to each location. So that you do not glue the fairings into place while adjusting the fit, lay strips of electrical (best) or masking tape at each fairing location. Be sure to lay on enough tape so you don t get resin/micro mix onto the wing surface! Draw a centerline on the tape (at 90 deg to the main spar) thru the center of the bracket assembly after the tape is positioned. SHOP TIP: mark each fairing 1 thru 6 as you fit them so that you can put them back onto the same position on the wing after final fitting and sanding.
Page 35 Position the fwd end of each fairing on the centerline, with the edge of the flange even with the fwd edge of the.063 doubler. Drill one #40 hole here, and cleco the fairing in place. Mark the edges of the aft end of the fairing, with the center of the fairing again on the premarked centerline. Remove the fairing, rough up the underside of the entire flange, and apply enough resin-micro mix to fill any gaps. Re-cleco the fairing as shown.. Allow the resin to set up, and remove the fairing. The fairings are supplied with the front/back cut line cast onto the outside of the fairing. Mark the line and cut each fairing into 2 pieces. Again, make sure the fairings are marked as to their respective locations, both on the front piece and on the aft piece. Sand the edges of the flanges to an aerodynamic (smooth) radius.
Page 36 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com Re-install the fairings as shown. Note the flange has been tapered on the fwd fairing section aft of the aft spar. Run the flaps up and down to check the clearance between the sections of each fairing. Sand the joint as required to keep the sections from dragging on each other. The fairings will be treated as any other composite part will be (filling pinholes and painting). In final assembly, you will glue the fairings in place using Goop brand adhesive, available at Home Depot. You can cleco the fairings in place while the glue dries and fill the holes later, or install AK34AB pop rivets to hold them in place. Either method will require glue to hold the fairings in place. US Plastics sell the antichafe tape we use to keep the flaps and ailerons from getting scratched up in service the P/N for the 1/2 wide tape id 46241. Call US Plastics at 800.537.9724. One roll will do the wings, but you may want to use this material in other places such as the canopy skirts. It might be a good idea to order 2 rolls of this tape while you are on the phone.
Page 37 The tape is installed along the TE of the top skin at the flap well as shown. Allow the tap to overhang the edge about 1/16 and trim to fit using a single edge razor blade. The tape is also installed along the TE of the aileron gap seals as shown here. Installation method is the same as with the flap well...
Page 38 Technical Support: mark@teamrocketaircraft.com Of course, you will want to install the tape to the inner edge of the lower gap seal too...
Page 39 The strobe power supply (Aeroflash brand) installs in the approximate position as shown. Lay the power supply in position, and use it as a drill jig for the attach holes. Once the holes are drilled thru the wing skin, you can attach the MS21051 single leg #10 nutplates to the powersupply and attach it to the inside of the wing. Use low profile #10 screws to attach the power supply to the wing. As an option, you could use countersunk screws.
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