The Park Hotel Instructions for Assembly

The Park Hotel Instructions for Assembly Kit Contents: 280 ea. Laser Cut Acrylic Parts. 1 ea. 6" Plastic Coated Wire. 5 ea. Sidewalk Parts. 14 ea. Cast Resin Dormers. 12 ea. Window Glass Templates, 12 ea. Window Glazing, instructions with diagrams. Thank you for purchasing this kit. Please read these instructions completely before beginning and take your time. Allow parts to dry after painting or gluing and do not try to build this in one night. Drawings of all the parts have been included for ease of part identification. Practice gluing the acrylic together if you have never done it before. There is plenty of scrap in your kit that you can use for this. If by chance a part is missing or broken, please write us indicating the kit name and part number and we will send you a replacement. You will need the following items to assemble your model: Sharp hobby knife, file, paint (see Painting Your Model ), paint brushes, glue (see Gluing Acrylic ), modeling putty. About the Kit This kit will build a 24 story building. The kit is built up in modules labeled as units. There are six units in all. The units range from three to eight stories. The units stack on top of each other when completed. The assembly of each unit is very similar. Once you have built the first unit you will most likely be able to build the rest without reading the instructions. However... I spent a lot of time writing the instructions so I would appreciate it if you would. Repetitive sequences will be described in detail the first time and then less so subsequently. Parts are labeled in the instructions inside parentheses. The first number is the unit number and the second is the part number in that unit. For instance (3-6) would be unit three part six. Each unit has a base and top that are identified with a letter. Many parts have engraved details on them. Be sure that these are facing out when gluing the parts together. It is easy to install these backwards by mistake. 1

Gluing Acrylic Always glue acrylic in a well-ventilated area, and read the glue manufacturer s label for instructions. We recommend using Tenax-7R by Hebco or Plastruct brand Plastic Weld Solvent Cement (PPC-2 or PPC-16) or Bondine Solvent Cement (Bond-2 or BOND-16). Tenax-7R comes with a dispenser and Plastruct sells a Solvent Syringe (HT-8 or HT-10) and various other solvent dispensers. Most hobby shops carry these products or they may be ordered directly from Hebco (931)-796-7442 or Plastruct (626)-912-7016. Acrylic must be glued together using a solvent that will melt the two edges and literally fuse them together. To do this, place the two pieces to be joined together and run a bead of solvent down the edge. Capillary action will suck the solvent into the joint and after several seconds the pieces will be fused. After only a few minutes the pieces will be strong enough to work with. The bond will be completely dry within twenty-four hours using the above-mentioned products. Solvent can be dispensed two ways. Typically the solvent comes in a small bottle with a brush in the lid. The brush allows you to dispense a drop or two of solvent at a time. You may want to use a polyethylene bottle or syringe with a blunt needle dispenser. This allows larger amounts of solvent to be dispensed quickly and cleanly. Be sure the bottle you are using is approved for the solvent you are using or you may melt through it. These may be purchased from CMR. Preparing Your Model for Painting We recommend lightly sanding all parts to remove the raised edge created during the laser cutting process. In order to hide the seams we recommend using hobbyist putty such as Green Squadron modeling putty. Do this in a very wellventilated area. Apply the putty over the seams and allow to dry overnight. Once the putty has dried, place a sheet of fine sandpaper on a flat surface and sand smooth. You may need to apply a second coat of putty and sand again. You may choose to wrap the engraved lines around the corners with a small triangular jewelers file. 2

Painting Your Model After building each unit and prior to installing the windows, we primed our building with Krylon Gray spray paint. We also primed the window frames. For our building paint scheme, we used Poly Scale Acrylic paints which are available in most hobby stores. We also used Poly Scale Acrylics for details and weathering. Always test compatibility of your paint with the acrylic by painting and testing a small area first. We painted the first unit of the building very light grey and the windows light grey and bronze. We painted the upper stories dark grey and the windows light grey. We then made a white wash with Poly Scale paints. The building units were laid flat with a wall facing up and the wash was applied and allowed to dry. The unit was then rotated to the next wall and the process was repeated, and so on. We air brushed the back and alley walls with a dirty black mix so that they would be darker. Finally, we installed the painted windows into the units. We painted the roof a corroded green tin color and gave it a heavy white wash. The dormers and chimneys were painted the same as the building. Note on Tabs Sometimes it is necessary to sand or file the tabs slightly in order to get them to seat themselves into the slots. This is due to slight variations in acrylic thickness. If the tabs are not fitting into the slots properly, you may need to file them back at an angle to fit properly. Window Glass There are printed window shades included with your kit. These are designed to be laminated with acetate window glazing prior to installing in your model. The printed window shades are numbered to correspond with the window frame parts. Lightly spray glue the window shade page on the printed side with spray mount and apply a sheet of acetate. Press in place. We used 3M Spray Mount part number 6065 which is available at craft and office supply stores. Glue these to the back of the painted window frames using super glue (CA). After gluing the window glazing to the window frames, place the assembly face up on a cutting matt and trim off any excess glazing with a hobby knife. See figure 1. Figure 1 3

Assembling the Tower Units The first unit of this structure is asymmetrical in that opposite sides do not match one another in detail and character. Figure 2 shows base part (A) face up with the first set of wall parts face down and ready to install into their appropriate places. Be sure when installing parts that the engraved side is facing out. Orientation is from the front. The right side wall is to the right of the front wall. Figure 2 Please note that all pieces referred to as bases and tops (parts A, B, C, etc...) should have the part number facing up during assembly unless otherwise noted. This is the correct orientation to insure that the tabs on the wall parts will fit into the slots facing the right direction. Unit 1 Begin by taking base (A) and laying it flat on your work surface with the engraved part number facing up. Working clockwise, insert the tabs of the front wall (1-1) into the slots on the front side of part (A) and glue in place (see figure 2 for orientation). Note that the tabs on the top and bottom of the wall parts are different sizes, and the walls will only fit into part (A) in one direction. Make sure that the engraved side is facing out. Next, insert the tabs of the left side wall (1-2) into the slots on the left side of part (A) and glue in place. The two walls should meet and be glued at the corner. Insert the tabs of the back wall (1-3) into the slots on the back side of part (A) and glue in place. Then, insert the tabs of the right side wall (1-4) into the slots on the right side of part (A) and glue in place to form a box. Make sure to glue all the corners together. See Figure 3. Figure 3 4

Glue the top (B) onto the assembly with the engraved part number facing up. Check that all the tabs are seated properly. See Figure 4. Now that the basic wall structure is together the walls get built out to create a decorative facade. Begin by gluing the left side (1-6) and the right side (1-8) to their appropriate walls making sure they are flush with the adjoining wall. If necessary file the edges so that the corners are perfectly flush. Next glue the front (1-5) and back (1-7) to their respective walls. They will overlap the sides and should be perfectly flush on the edges. If necessary file the edges so that the corners are perfectly flush. See Figures 5 & 6. Figure 4 Figure 5 Figure 6 Glue part (1-9) onto part (1-5). Glue part (C) on top of part (B). The center openings should align perfectly. See Figure 7 Figure 7 5

Fill and sand the corners of the assembly if necessary. You may choose to wrap the engraved lines around the corners with a small triangular jewelers file. See Preparing your Model for Painting. Paint the unit and set aside to dry. See Figure 8 Paint the window frames (1-10), (1-11), (1-12), (1-13), and (1-14) your choice of color. We painted ours light grey. Then we masked off the upper windows and painted the large windows and doors shiny gold. Install the window glazing as described earlier. Install part (1-10) behind the front wall, part (1-11) behind the left side wall, part (1-12) behind the right side wall, and parts (1-13) and (1-14) behind the back wall. See Figure 9. Figure 8 Assemble the awning by gluing parts (A-2), (A-3) and (A-4) to (A-1). Paint and attach to the front of Unit 1 above the main door. Cut two lengths of wire to 1.25" long and glue in place to support the awning. See Figure 10. Paint the Garage Door (1-15) dark gray and glue in place behind the door opening in part (1-2). See Figure 10. Figure 9 Figure 10 6

Unit 2 Place base (D) flat on your work surface with the engraved number facing up. Glue part (2-1) into the center slots located in the front of part (D). Glue parts (2-2) and (2-3) on either side of part (2-1) using the tabs and slots for alignment. See Figure 11. Glue part (2-4) into the center slots located in the left side of part (D). Glue part (2-2) and (2-3) on either side of part (2-4) using the tabs and slots for alignment. Repeat on the right side. See Figure 12 Figure 11 Figure 13 Figure 12 Glue the six parts (2-5) into the slots of part (D) using Figure 13 for placement. Part (2-6) is shipped in two parts and will need to be glued together using a part (2-8) to bridge the seam as shown in figure 14. Note that part (2-8) is a wider part than the similar part (2-7) that will be used later. 7 Figure 14

Glue the assembled part (2-6) to the back of part (D). Make sure the corners are flush with the parts (2-5) on either side of it. See Figure 15. Glue part (E) on top of the assembly using the tabs and slots for alignment. See Figure 15. Next glue the decorative corners in place. Each corner is made up of one part (2-7) and one part (2-8). You will notice that part (2-7) is narrower and has the edges notched only on one side. Part (2-8) is wider and has the edges notched on both sides. Glue part (2-7) on first so that the non-notched side is flush with the corner. Next glue part (2-8) onto the corner so that it overlaps part (2-7). Use part (2-8) on the side of the corner that will be the most visible to prevent you from seeing the seam. See Figure 16. Figure 15 Figure 16 Fill and sand the corners of the assembly if necessary. You may choose to wrap the engraved lines around the corners with a small triangular jewelers file. See Preparing your Model for Painting. Paint the unit and set aside to dry. 8

Paint the window frames (2-9), (2-10), (2-11), (2-12), and (2-13) your choice of color and install the window glazing as described earlier. Install window frame (2-9) behind wall part (2-1). Install the nine window frames (2-10) behind walls (2-2), (2-3), (2-4) and the left side of (2-6A). Install the six window frames (2-11) behind the walls (2-5). Install window frame (2-12) behind wall (2-6B). Install window frame (2-13) behind the right side of wall (2-6A). See Figure 17. Figure 17 9

Unit 3 Place base (F) flat on your work surface with the engraved number facing up. Glue part (3-1) into the center slots located in the front of part (F). Glue parts (3-2) and (3-3) on either side of part (3-1) using the tabs and slots for alignment. See Figure 18. Glue part (3-4) into the center slots located in the left side of part (F). Glue part (3-2) and (3-3) on either side of part (3-4) using the tabs and slots for alignment. Repeat on the right side. See Figure 19. Figure 18 Glue the six parts (3-5) into the slots of part (F) using Figure 20 for placement. Figure 19 Figure 20 Glue part (3-6) to the back of part (F). Make sure the corners are flush with the parts (3-5) on either side of it. Glue part (E) on top of the assembly using the tabs and slots for alignment. See Figure 21. Figure 21 10

Next glue the decorative corners in place. Each corner is made up of one part (3-7) and one part (3-8). You will notice that part (3-7) is narrower and has the edges notched only on one side. Part (3-8) is wider and has the edges notched on both sides. Glue part (3-7) on first so that the nonnotched side is flush with the corner. Next glue part (3-8) onto the corner so that it overlaps part (3-7). Use part (3-8) on the side of the corner that will be the most visible to prevent you from seeing the seam. See Figure 22. Glue two parts (3-8) to the back wall part (3-6) using the engraved lines on the wall for location. See Figure 22. Figure 22 Fill and sand the corners of the assembly if necessary. You may choose to wrap the engraved lines around the corners with a small triangular jewelers file. See Preparing your Model for Painting. Paint the unit and set aside to dry. Paint the window frames (3-9), (3-10), (3-11), and (3-12) your choice of color and install the window glazing as described earlier. Install window frame (3-9) behind wall part (3-1). Install the eight window frames (3-10) behind walls (3-2), (3-3), and (3-4). Install the six window frames (3-11) behind the walls (3-5). Install window frame (3-12) behind wall (3-6). See Figure 23. Figure 23 11

Unit 4 Unit 4 has terraces that extend out from the bottom of it and sit on top of the unit below. In some situations these terraces may curl or cusp after construction as a result of glue or paint solvent causing the surface tension of the acrylic to be released on the top side only. To prevent this from happening we recommend that Unit 4 be built and attached to unit 3 with in a 48 hour period. Unit four is different from the earlier units. The wall assembly is symmetrical and the building begins stepping in at this point. We will also be adding railings to the balconies. Figure 24 Place base (G) flat on your work surface with the engraved number facing up. Glue part (4-1) into the center slots located in the front of part (G). Glue parts (4-2) and (4-3) on either side of part (4-1) using the tabs and slots for alignment. Repeat the process on the back of part (G). See Figure 24. Glue part (4-4) into the center slots located in the left side of part (G). Glue part (4-2) and (4-3) on either side of part (4-4) using the tabs and slots for alignment. Repeat on the right side. See Figure 25. Glue the eight parts (4-5) into the slots of part (F) to create the corners, using Figure 26 for placement. Figure 25 Glue part (H) on top of the assembly using the tabs and slots for alignment. See Figure 26. Figure 26 12

Next glue the decorative corners in place. Each corner is made up of one part (4-6) and one part (4-7). You will notice that part (4-6) is narrower and has the edges notched only on one side. Part (4-7) is wider and has the edges notched on both sides. Glue part (4-6) on first so that the nonnotched side is flush with the corner. Next glue part (4-7) onto the corner so that it overlaps part (4-6). Use part (4-7) on the side of the corner that will be the most visible to prevent you from seeing the seam. See Figure 27. Install the railings (R4-1), (R4-2), (R4-3) and (R4-4) as shown in Figure 28. Figure 27 Fill and sand the corners of the assembly if necessary. You may choose to wrap the engraved lines around the corners with a small triangular jewelers file. See Preparing your Model for Painting. Paint the unit and set aside to dry. Paint the window frames (4-8), (4-9), and (4-10) your choice of color and install the window glazing as described earlier. Figure 28 Install the window frames (4-8) behind walls (4-1). Install the window frames (4-9) behind walls (4-4). Install the window frames (4-10) behind the walls (4-5). See Figure 29. Figure 29 13

Unit 5 Unit 5 has terraces that extend out from the bottom of it and sit on top of the unit below. In some situations these terraces may curl or cusp after construction as a result of glue or paint solvent causing the surface tension of the acrylic to be released on the top side only. To prevent this from happening we recommend that Unit 5 be built and attached to unit 4 with in a 48 hour period. Glue part (5-3) onto the back of part (5-1) using the engraved lines on part (5-3) for alignment. Do this twice. See Figure 30. Figure 30 Place base (I) flat on your work surface with the engraved number facing up. Glue one part (5-1) into the slots located along the long side of part (I). Glue two parts (5-2) on either side of part (5-1) using the tabs and slots for alignment. Glue the remaining part (5-1) on the other side of the assembly to form a box. Glue part J on top of your assembly. See Figures 31 & 32. Next glue the decorative corners in place. Each corner is made up of one part (5-4) and one part (5-5). You will notice that part (5-4) is narrower and has the edges notched only on one side. Part (5-5) is wider and has the edges notched on both sides. Glue part (5-4) on first so that the nonnotched side is flush with the corner. Next glue part (5-5) onto the corner so that it overlaps part (5-4). See Figure 32. Figure 31 Glue two parts (5-5) onto each of the walls (5-1) and (5-2) as shown in Figure 32. VERY IMPORTANT!... parts (5-5) should align with the decorative corners on Unit 4 and you should make sure they align vertically when you glue them in place. See Figure 33 on the next page. Install the railings (R5-1), (R5-2) and (R5-3) as shown in Figure 32. Figure 32 14

Unit 6 Begin by gluing the dentils part (K) to the bottom of part (L) centering it on all sides. The bottom would be the side without the part number and engraving on it. See Figure 35. Flip assembly over and glue trim part (M) to the top of part (L) using the outside engraved line for alignment. Glue the roof support (6-1) into the slots on the top of part (L) followed by the two parts (6-2) which slide down onto part (6-1) and into (L). See Figure 36. Figure 35 Glue the two short roof pieces (6-4) onto the ends of the roof support (6-1) using the engraved lines on part (L) to keep them square. Make sure the engraved lines are facing out on the roof parts. See Figure 37. Glue the two long roof pieces (6-3) to form a pyramid. One part is slightly taller than the other. Glue the shorter one on first and then the longer one which will overlap the top edge. Make sure the engraved lines are facing out on the roof. File and sand all the edges so that they are sharp and clean. See Figure 38. Figure 36 Figure 37 Figure 38 16

Assemble the two chimneys by gluing the thin chimney sections between the wide ones, using the two small rectangles as braces to keep them square. Glue the small roof cap part onto the larger roof cap part so the two are centered. Glue this on top of the chimney. When dry, file the bottoms of the thin sides to match the angles of the large sides. See Figure 39. Prime and paint the fourteen cast resin dormer parts (6-5). We painted ours very dark grey inside the window area and light grey around it to match our window frames on the rest of the building. We then painted the windows with gloss coat so that they would be shiny. Paint the dormer fronts (6-6) to match the stone of the building. Glue the dormer fronts to the resin dormers so that the bottom are flush and the windows are centered. Sand the backs of the dormers so that they are flat. See Figure 40 Glue the dormers to the roof. The first row of dormers sits on the base of the roof. You can use the lines on the roof to help in placement as they should be symmetrical. Figure 39 Figure 40 The sides of the roof have a slightly steeper pitch and so you will need to sand the backs of the two dormers that go on the sides of the building so that the fronts are vertical. Use Figure 41 for placement. Glue the chimneys to the top of the roof. Use Figure 41 for location. Figure 41 17

Assembling the Units Now that you have built all of the building units, it is time to assemble them. Make sure that the bottom and top of each unit is perfectly flat and smooth. Sand or file any imperfections off as necessary. It will be easier to glue the units together upside down. Begin with Unit 5 upside down on your work table and glue Unit 4 to it upside down as well. You can run a bead of glue along the cornice where the two pieces meet. Continue gluing the units together in this fashion making sure that everything is straight and true as you go along. When finished you will have to turn the building back right side up in order to glue on the roof unit. Once completed touch up any glue and paint imperfections along the cornices. Paint the provided sidewalk concrete and put in place. Your building is finished and ready to install on your layout. You may add lights and other details. We thank you for purchasing this kit from CMR and hope that you have enjoyed building it. Be sure to see our other kits at www.cmrtrain.com. 18