The Kristine Zipper Pouch: Small & Medium These in-the-hoop zipper pouches are PERFECT for organizing all those small items! This would also make the perfect gift for that hard to buy for person on your list! You ll want to use all those yummy small bits of your favorite fabric you have been holding on to. I d love to see how your Kristine Zipper Pouches turn out! You can post pictures on my Facebook page (www.facebook.com/kimberbelldesigns) or share on Instagram with the hashtags: #kimberbelldesigns and #kimberbellmetime. Thank you for your support! Kim Christopherson Materials Needed: The fabrics listed below are oversized, and will be cut to specific sizes listed on the next pages. Small Zipper Pouch: HOOP: 5 x 7 hoop (Embroidery Field Needed: 4.5 x 5.64) STABILIZER: Cut-away stabilizer Fabric 1: (borders & back) Fat Eighth (9 x 21 ) Fabric 2: (lining) Fat Eighth (9 x 21 ) Fabric 3: (background) 5 x 9 Fabric 4: (spool end caps) 4 x 4 Fabrics 5-14: (thread) 3 x 2 each OTHER: Batting: 6 x 7 Tape 7 zipper Medium Zipper Pouch: HOOP: 6 x 10 hoop (Embroidery Field Needed: 5.5 x 6.65) STABILIZER: Cut-away stabilizer Fabric 1: (borders & back) Fat Eighth (9 x 21 ) Fabric 2: (lining) Fat Eighth (9 x 21 ) Fabric 3: (background) 6 x 10 Fabric 4: (spool end caps) 5 x 4 Fabrics 5-14: (thread) 4 x 2 each OTHER: Batting: 7 x 8 Tape 8 zipper 1
Fabrics 5-14 Fabric 1 Fabric 1 Fabric 1 Fabric 4 Fabric 1 Fabric 2 Fabric 3 Fabric 3 Fabric 2 Cut the Following: Since both sizes of the zipper pouch incorporate the same method for piecing, as well as how the bag comes together, I will just show the -by-s for one of the pouches. Follow the cut charts for the specific size pouch you are making. Small Zipper Pouch: From Fabric 1: (borders & back) Cut (1) 5 ½ x 6 ½ (outside back piece) Cut (2) 5 ½ x 2 ½ (border pieces D4 & D5) Cut (1) 5 ½ x 1 ½ (border piece D3) Cut (2) 4 x 1 ½ (border pieces D1 & D2) From Fabric 2: (lining) Cut (1) 5 ½ x 6 ½ (lining back) Cut (1) 5 ½ x 6 ½ (lining below zipper) Cut (1) 5 ½ x 2 ½ (lining below zipper) From Fabric 3: (background) Cut (2) 4 x 1 ½ (background pieces B5 & B6) Cut (2) 3 x 1 ½ (background pieces B1 & B2) Cut (2) 3 ½ x 1 (background pieces B3 & B4) From Fabric 4: (spool end caps) Cut (2) 3 x 1 ½ (spool pieces C1 & C2) From Fabrics 5-14: (thread) Cut (1) 2 ½ x 1 ½ from each fabric for a total of 10 blocks (thread pieces A1-A10) Medium Zipper Pouch: From Fabric 1: (borders & back) Cut (1) 6 ½ x 7 ½ (outside back piece) Cut (2) 6 ½ x 2 ½ (border pieces D4 & D5) Cut (1) 6 ½ x 1 ½ (border piece D3) Cut (2) 5 x 1 ½ (border pieces D1 & D2) From Fabric 2: (lining) Cut (1) 6 ½ x 7 ½ (lining back) Cut (1) 6 ½ x 7 ½ (lining below zipper) Cut (1) 6 ½ x 2 ½ (lining below zipper) From Fabric 3: (background) Cut (2) 5 x 1 ½ (background pieces B5 & B6) Cut (2) 4 x 1 ½ (background pieces B1 & B2) Cut (2) 4 x 1 ½ (background pieces B3 & B4) From Fabric 4: (spool end caps) Cut (2) 4 x 1 ½ (spool pieces C1 & C2) From Fabrics 5-14: (thread) Cut (1) 3 x 1 ½ from each fabric for a total of 10 blocks (thread pieces A1-A10) 2
= Indicates the specific on your embroidery machine. 3
Embroider the Following: 1. Load stabilizer only in the hoop. 4. Stitch the next : the spool template. NOTE: A full size template is also included on this disk for your reference, but is not necessary in completing the project. 2 2. Stitch the first : the placement line for the batting. 5. Lay piece A1 right side up. Section 1 should be entirely covered and centered underneath the fabric. 3. 1 Place the oversized piece of batting on top of the stabilizer, ensuring the box is completely covered. 6. Stitch the next : the trimming/ placement line. NOTE: All stitching will be done on top of batting. Do not cut the batting until the final. 3 4
7. 10. Flip and press piece A2 right side up. 8. Lay piece A2 right side down, centered along the line stitched. Kim s Tip: Use a mini craft iron to press the pieces. This will help with crisp points and eliminate bubbling in your fabric. When pressing the fabric, it is best to remove hoop from machine and press on an ironing board. 11. Stitch the next : the trimming/ placement line stitch for piece A3. 5 9. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 12. 4 5
13. Lay piece A3 right side down, centered along the line stitched. 16. Stitch the next : the trimming/ placement line stitch for piece A4. 7 14. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 17. 6 15. Flip and press piece A3 right side up. 18. Lay piece A4 right side down, centered along the line stitched. 6
19. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 22. After completing the thread pieces you will sew on the background and spool pieces. Sew the next stitch: the trimming/placement line for piece B1. 20. Flip and press piece A4 right side up. 8 23. 21 21. Continue following the above for the remaining thread (A) pieces. 24. Lay piece B1 right side down, along the line stitched. s 9-20 7
25. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 28. 26. Flip and press piece B1 right side up. 22 29. Lay piece B2 right side down, centered along the line stitched. 27. Stitch the next : the trimming/ placement line for piece B2. 30. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 23 24 8
31. Flip and press piece B2 right side up. 34. Lay piece C1 right side down, along the line stitched. 32. Next you will sew on the top and bottom spool and background pieces. Sew the next stitch: the trimming/placement line for piece C1. 35. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 33. 25 36. Flip and press piece C1 right side up. 26 9
37. Sew the next stitch: the trimming/ placement line for piece B3. 40. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 38. 27 41. Flip and press piece B3 right side up. 28 39. Lay piece B3 right side down, along the line stitched. 42. Stitch the next : the trimming/ placement line for piece C2. 29 10
43. 46. Flip and press piece C2 right side up. 44. Lay piece C2 right side down, along the line stitched. 47. Stitch the next : the trimming/ placement line for piece B4. 45. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 48. 31 30 11
49. Lay piece B4 right side down, along the line stitched. 52. Now you finish the background pieces. Sew the next stitch: the trimming/ placement line for piece B5. 33 50. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 53. 51. Flip and press piece B4 right side up. 32 54. Lay piece B5 right side down, along the line stitched. 12
55. Stitch the next : the seam stitch. 58. The next stitch is the trimming/ placement line for border piece D4. 56. Flip and press piece B5 right side up. 34 59. 43 Trim the excess fabric but do not place piece D4 at this time. 57. Sew on the background piece B6 in the same manner. Then continue onto the border pieces D1, D2, and D3 following the above s. 60. Sew the next : the wandering thread stitch. Make sure your thread is the desired color. s 35-42 44 13
61. Sew the next : the zipper placement stitch. Kim s Tip on Using Tape: Since the needle is going through the, it is best to use a low-tack type of such as paper. If you do not have that or feel that it is still too tacky, you can eliminate some of that stickiness by first placing the on another piece of cloth (even your own clothing!) and then put the on your project. Doing this will leave a few fuzzies from the cloth or clothing, and help to take away the stickiness that can sometimes gum up your needle. It will be easier to tear away, as well! 64. Stitch the next : the zipper tack down stitch. Remove. 45 62. Carefully trim the batting from inside the box. Do not cut through the stabilizer. 65. 46 Wrong sides together, iron pieces D4 & D5 in half -- the long way -- making sure you get a nice crisp fold. 63. Place zipper inside the box. Make sure the zipper pull and the zipper stop are outside of the box and not under the needle. The open end of the box is the direction your zipper pull should be on. Tape zipper down to prevent it from shifting. 66. Place the raw edges of piece D4 on the previously stitched trimming/placement stitch line (see 59) making sure you center the piece of fabric on the line. zipper pull raw edge folded edge 14
67. Sew the next stitch: the seam stitch for piece D4. Before moving onto the next, double-check your tack down line from Step 69 to be sure the fabric is evenly spaced next to the zipper. If it is where you like it, then remove hoop from machine and turn to the underside of the hoop. If somehow the fabric shifted while stitching out Step 69 and you would like to re-do it, now is the time to carefully remove those stitches and start your machine again on that. 68. 47 Flip and iron piece D4, so the fold is towards the zipper teeth. Tape the piece in place, so that the fold stays just below the zipper teeth. 70. From the underside of the hoop, carefully cut away the stabilizer that is underneath the zipper. You will now see the underside of the zipper and zipper teeth. zipper teeth folded edge Cutting away this section of stabilizer will help with the placement of the lining, and create a nice finished edge. (underside of hoop) 69. Stitch the next : the tack down stitch. Remove. 71. Take the lining below the zipper and iron down 1 inch, along the short side. FOLD 1 inch down NOTE: This stitch will be seen in the finished product, so make sure the thread is the desired color. This stitch is also part of the finishing top stitches. A stop is placed afterwards in order to verify placement of fabric. RAW EDGE 48 15
72. On the underside of the hoop: Take the lining (from 71) and line up the fold just below the zipper teeth. It should completely cover the backside of the spool and borders. Tape around edges to prevent fabric from shifting. 75. Sew the tack down stitch, which is part of the top-stitching. A stop is placed afterwards to verify placement of fabric. The right side of the fabric should be facing up. 73. (underside of hoop) Place hoop back into machine. Stitch the next. It will stitch the tack-down line again (same as 69 above), but this time it will also catch the lining piece. 76. 50 With wrong sides together, iron the top lining (the lining fabric that is above the zipper) in half, the long way. This will also stitch a second finishing stitch across piece D4, and tack-down the entire lining piece (the piece below the zipper). 74. 49 Lay piece D5 with the fold toward the zipper teeth. Line up the fold so that it is even on both sides of the zipper, for a nice finished look. Place in a few places to keep fabric from shifting. 77. Turn over hoop and place the lining fabric on the underside of the hoop. The fold should be toward the zipper teeth. Tape it in place. folded edge folded edge (underside of hoop) 16
78. 79. Place hoop back into machine. Stitch the next, the tack-down line again (same as 75 above), but it will also catch the lining piece. In addition, it will stitch across piece D5, and tack-down the top lining piece that is above the zipper. Open your zipper 3 /4 of the way. 51 81. 82. The next will sew the front and back together. Remove your hoop from the machine and turn over to the underside of the hoop. Place the final lining piece, right side down, making sure it covers the entire box previous stitched. wrong side of lining 52 Place small pieces of around the edges to prevent the back piece from shifting during this final. 80. Lay the back piece (Fabric 1) face down on top of the entire bag. Make sure it covers the entire outer perimeter of stitching. 83. Stitch the final stitch. This will sew the lining into place, and leaves an opening for turning. wrong side of Fabric 1 wrong side of lining (front side of hoop) 53 17
84. Un-hoop your project and trim around the entire box, approximately ¼ away from the seam line. Clip corners to reduce the bulk. 86. Hand stitch the opening closed or use hem to close the opening. 85. Turn the bag through the opening in the lining, to expose the inside of the bag. 87. Turn your Kristine Zipper Pouch right side out, through the open zipper and poke out the corners. Press with steam for a nice finished look. 18