UNIVERSITY OF HONG KONG LIBRARY. Hong Kong Collection Gift from: Hong Kong Training Council

UNIVERSITY OF HONG KONG LIBRARY Hong Kong Collection Gift from: Hong Kong Training Council

HONG KONG TRAINING COUNCIL TRAINING PROGRAMMES FOR THE PRINCIPAL JOBS IN THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY JUNE 1977 PREPARED BY THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY TRAINING BOARD

LIST Chairman i The Honourable Francis Y.H. Tien t O.B.E., J 9 P* Vice-Chairman : Mr. Charles Pan ( ) (up to 31st August 1976) Mr, Frank C.H. Jen t J.P. ( 'flr^c'fif- ) (from March 1977) Members s Mr, E. Barnes Miss P.T. Chen ( Mr. Christopher Cheng ( Mr. Stephen K.C. Cheong ( Mr. O.K. Chow, O.B.E. f J.P. (up to 31st December 1976) ( JS, Mr* FOK Wah-pun ( (from 1st January 1977) Mr. EUR. Knight, J.P. Mr. Robert W.K. Tse (from 1st September 1976) Mr. R. Mr. N.C.M. Yek Secretary * Miss Susanna lu ill

FOREWORD In August 1972 the Manual of Job Standards and Specifications for the 22 principal jobs in the clothing industry in Hong Kong prepared by the Training Board was published and put on sale. Based on these job standards and specifications the Training Board has now completed its work of drawing up model on~the~job training programmes for jobs at the technologist f technician and craftsman levels. The outcome is this manual* The aim of preparing this manual of recommended training programmes is two-fold to provide employers with ready-made systematic on-the-job training programmes for training their apprentices/trainees and, for those employers who wish to prepare their own training programmes f to provide them with guidelines which should assist them in their task. While these recommended programmes are provided as guidelines, we would strongly urge employers, in the interest of good training, to adhere to them as closely as possible both with respect to the content and the times allocated. In the particular case of clothing machine mechanics, knitting machine mechanics and plant maintenance mechanics, it will be a definite advantage to employer^ to take on apprentices who have completed the relevant one-year full-time basic craft course at a Technical Institute. We would strongly advise that proper work attitute and awareness of the need for safe working and of statutory requirements regarding the safe use of plant and machinery should be emphasized throughout the training period. We are confident that these model training programmes, when applied, would raise the standard of training which would in turn result in a more efficient workforce. Francis Y.H. Tien Chairman Clothing Industry Training Board IV

CONTENTS Job Title Pages TECHNOLOGIST LE EL Production Manager 1 - k Quality Controller 5-7 Garment Designer 8-10 TECHNICIAN LEVEL Production Supervisor/Marker Maker/ 11-14 Pattern Maker Knitwear Technician 15-18 CKAFTSMAN LEVEL Clothing Machine Mechanic 19-22 Knitting Machine Mechanic ' 23-25 Plant Maintenance Mechanic 26-27

Job Level Technologist Job Title Production manager Type of Training * This programme covers one-year on-the-job training in the clothing industry. Induction ^Programme d) ouided tour of factory* (2) Company and factory regulations. (3) Government regulations* (k) Safety, health and proper work attitude. (5) Organisation of the factory. Approximate time scale 1 day (6) Product range, quality standard of finished merchandise and markets* (?) Information about the training programme» Stockroom (1) Types of materials and trimmings 1 week used* (2) Routine of receipts, stock control and issue, (5) Inspection of in-coming goods* Safe storage of materials and trimmings* Pattern Making and the Cutting Hoom (1) Design and design engineering* 4 weeks (2) Garment measurements and sizes* (3) Pattern drafting*

PrograBBBg Approximate time scale (If) Methods of grading,, (5) Pattern storage f issue and control* (6) Sample making and garment fitting. (7) Marker making* (8) Techniques of handling and lay-up of cloth by hand and by machinery* (9) Marking-out techniques. (10) Operation and techniques of using various types of cutting machines and cloth drills. (11) Bundling and ticketing* Haking-up- (1) Operation of various types of sewing machines* (2) Production sequences and flow systems* (?) Control of garment parts. (k) Practical supervision of a working group :- k weeks allocating of work t balancing of line, motivation etc* Pressing Section (1) Operation of various pressing machines* 2 weeks Despatch : (1) Packing* (2) Distribution of finished garments and shipping* 1 week

Costing ^Programme (1) Implications of cost (2) Methods of costing and control* Approximate time scale 2 weeks Quality Control (1) Inspection methods, faulttracing, correction and treatment of defective garments* (2) The importance and methods of quality control and build-in in each process* 2 weeks Personnel (1) Manpower planning,, 2 weeks (2) Recruiting $ interviewing and selection of employees* (3) Cost of labour turnover* Training at different levels* Betraining f training costs and records* Apprentice training* (5) Paying systems* Production Planning and Control (1) Plant layout. Jk weeks (2) Production planning s«methods of scheduling work and co-ordinating with other departments. Planning the cutting order. (3). Productio-n control :- (a) Materials -utilisation and control. (b) Labour - labour utilisation* 3

Programme Approximate time scale (c) Equipment - the improvement of performance by machines f work-place engineering and transportation. Recording and controlling of work in progress* (5) Simple applications of method study and work measurement* 52 weeks Note i Employers are reminded that, when planning on-the-job training for trainees/apprentices, this training programme should be used as a guideline f but employers are advised to adhere to it as nearly as possible.

Job Level 5 Technologist Job Title : Quality Controller Type of Training * This programme co ers one-year on-the-job training in clothing industry Induction Programme (1) Guided tour of factory. (2) Company and factory regulations* (3) Government regulations. (if) Safety f health and proper working attitude. (5) Organisation of the factory. Approximate time scale 1 day (6) Product range f quality standard of finished merchandise and markets. (?) Information about the training programme Stockroom (1) Types of materials and trimmings used. (2) Inspection of in-coming goods* (3) Safe storage of materials and trimmings 1 week Sales and Design (1) Study of customers 1 requirements with due consideration to performance and price* 2 weeks (2) Designs effect on quality* (3) 3escription of style features.

Programme Approximate time scale (if) Work instructions for production* (5) Critical garment dimensions and tolerances. (6) Stitch and seam types (?) Types of sewing thread f their suitability and characteristics* (8) Detecting problem areas in sample making* Pattern Making and. (1) Size charts and checking of the Cutting Boom * measurements* 2 weeks (2) Quality control in relation to pattern pieces and markers* (3) Methods of good lay making (i*e* correct tension* pattern fabric matching, straight ends etc*)«(k) Precise cutting and inspection of cut pieces* Making-up ; (1) Inspection of cut pieces from 20 weeks the cutting room. (2) Application and limitations of clothing machinery and work aids in relation to the quality of stitching* (3) Specifications and tolerances, (k) Inspection methods f in-process and final inspection* (5) Compilation and use of statistics. (6) Practice in instilling quality consciousness* ' ' (?) Fault-tracing, correction, and treatment of defective garments.

Approximate time scale Pressing and Despatch s (1) Techniques of high quality pressing* 1 week (2) Effects of pressing on different materials* (3) Inspection techniques in the pressing room* Achievement of hanger and package appeal Quality Control (1) Routine quality check from cut pieces to finishing* (2) Supervision and allocation of work in the quality control section* (3) Research work in achieving good quality through s- (a) failure of garment f (b) appraisal of circumstance, and, (c) prevention of recurrence* (k) Examination of customers * complaints and rejects and feed back of information to production sections* 26 weeks 52 weeks Note * Employers are reminded that* when planning on-the-job training for trainees/apprentices f this training programme should be used as a guideline f but employers are advised to adhere to it as nearly as possible*

Job Level : Technologist Job Title Garment Designer Type of Training This programme covers one year on-the»job training in the clothing industry Programme Approximate time scale Induction ** (1) Guided tour of factory 1. day (2) Company and factory regulations* (3) Government regulations* (4) Safety, health and proper work attitude (5) Organisation of the factory (6) Product range, quality standard of finished merchandise and markets* (?) Information about the training programme, Buying Department : Selection of materials and accessories f 1 week buying routine and time schedules* Stockroom (1) Types of materials and trimmings 1 week used* (2) Routine of receipts, stock control and issue* (3) Safe storage of materials and trimmings* " Sample Boom (1) Garment measurements and sizes, k weeks (2) Pattern drafting and grading.

Programme Approximate time scale (3) Pattern storage, issue and control* Sample making Cutting Production procedures in cutting room s marker making f lay making and cutting and machinery used,, Making-up Production procedures in the sewing room, pressing and despatch* weeks Quality Control (1) Quality standard of products* (2) Inspection methods f fault-tracing f correction and treatment of defective garments. 1 weeks Design and Design Engineering (1) Garment design with reference to line, colour 9 texture etc, (2) Adaptation of ideas to styles* (3) Modification of design for material economy; methods of seam displacement* (4) Modification of design for the purpose of production efficiency. (5) Design is relation to the available labour and machinery* (6) Catering for a specific market; assessment of the character of the market for which a firm caters* (7) Study of customers' requirements with due consideration to performance and price«weeks

Prograsae Approximate time scale (8) Suitability of design and style for various materials such as faced cloths 9 one-way design 9 stripes and checks (9) Designing for a balanced collection (1C) Current international style trends and recent fabric design and developments«(11) Effective utilisation of materials, (12) Effect of design on quality and production* (13) Achievement of hanger and package appeal 52 weeks Mote i Employers are reminded that f when planning on-the-job training for trainees/apprentices* this training programme should be used as a guideline 9 but employers are advised to adhere to it as nearly as possible* 10

Job Level s Technician Job Title Production Supervisor/Marker Maker/Pattern Type of Training 4-year on-the-job training with attendance at a related technician course on a part-time day or block-release or evening basis Induction Programme (1) Guided tour of factory* (2) Company and factory regulations» (3) Government regulations* Safety * health and proper work attitude* (5) Organisation of the factory. (6) Product range, quality standard of finished merchandise and the markets. (7) Information about the training programme* Approximate tiae scale_ 1 day BASIC TBAINING Stockroom 5 (1) Types of materials* trimmings and their usage* 3 months (2) Soutine of receipts, stock control and issue* (3) Safe storage of materials and trimmings. Design and Costing * (1) Design and design engineering, (2) Adaptation of ideas to styling, relevant to production, costing and market needs. (3) Costing methods and control* 11

Programme Approximate time scale Sample making (5) Job specification,, (detailed working instructions) Pattern Making Cutting Boom (1) Garment measurements in relation to size charts* (2) Pattern making and grading* (1) Marker making f i*e, economical cloth usage f techniques of handling and preparing the cloth for cutting and understanding the importance of grain (warp and weft) f pile f checks and pattern fabrics and shading (2) Laying of cloth and trimmings* (3) Cutting methods* (%) Bundling* (5) Instruction and practice on cutting room equipment «Sewing Room (1) Manufacturing equipment 9 including actual use of machinery* (2) Practical production work, assembly, (3) Principles and systems of production, Control of garment parts* (5) Practical.supervision of a working group s - balancing of a line etc* 3 months 12

Programme Approximate time scale (6) Operative training (?)»ork study. Finishing Sections : (1) Practical work in Finishing Sections* (i*e Felling hem f buttonholing f buttoning f handsewing etc,* 5 Press Section Despatch (1) Practical work on pressing 1 month d) Practical work on packing and ticketing* (2) Distribution of finished garments and shipping* Production Engineering (1) Study of handling methods and 2 months work place layouts* (2) Machinery types and attachments in relation to possible improvement of production efficiency and quality Production Control ' (1) Control over staff and production* (2) Production planning Quality Control (1) Practical examination and testing of materials and garments at various stages of manufacture* (2) Techniques of random sampling* (3) Correction and treatment of defective garments* 3 months Maintenance : (1) Knowledge of simple maintenance of all machinery and equipment* 13

Programme Approximate tiine^ seal n SPECIALISED. Thoroughly trained in one of the 3 years * following departments :- (1) Production planning and control (2) Pattern making and the cutting room* (3) Sewing room k years Note i (1) Employers are reminded that f when planning on~the«job training for trainees/apprentices, this training programme should be used as a guideline, but employers are advised to adhere to it sis nearly as possible * (2) Marker Maker and Pattern Maker trainees/apprentices need not spend time in maintenance section*

Job level» Technician Job Title I Knitwear Technician Type of Training *i year on-the-job training with attendance at a related technician course on a -part-time day or block-release or evening basis* Induction Programme (1) Guided tour of factory* (2) Company and factory regulations* (3) Government regulations* (k) Safety f health and proper working attitude* (5) Organisation of the factory* (6) Product range f quality standard of finished merchandise and markets* (?) Information about the training programme Approximate time scale 1 day BASIC TRAINING Knitting Section (1) Identification of common raw materials for knitting. (2) Yarn dyeing* (3) Binding and waxing/ lubricating* (4) Prepare pattern wheels, pattern drums, pattern cards or pattern tapes from the pattern drafts for various knitting machines* 6 months 15.

Approximate time scale (5) Operate and control of all available knitting machinery* (6) Identification and production of various knitted fabric structures* Quality Control in the Knitting Section Inspection methods f fault-tracing, correction and treatment of defective pieces. 1 month Fabric Cutting (Design* Pattern Making a»d Cutting) (1) Design and design 4 months engineering. (2) Drafting block patterns* (3) Methods of grading* (4) Marker making - economical layouts (Mixing of sizes and thickness of lays). (5) Techniques of handling and lay-up of knitted fabrics by hand and machinery (6) Marking-out techniques* (?) Operation and techniques of using various types of cutting machines and cloth drills (8) Bundling and ticketing* Assembling (1) Operation of various 6 months linking, seaming and sewing machines» (2) Production sequences. (3) Control of garment parts. 16

Programme Approximate time scale Practical supervision of a working group s- allocating of work f balancing of line etc*?«finishing s (1) Methods of wet finishing and 1 month piece dyeing if applicable* (2) Operation of setting or pressing machines* VI. Quality Control of Assembly and Finishes (1) Methods of inspection* 1 month (2) Quality standards of the factory* (3) Causes and remedies of faults. 'VII Packing and Despatch (1) Packing and despatch. 1 month VIII Costing s Calculation, control and revision 1 month of production costs* IX. Production Control and Planning Planning and control of production flow to ensure efficient utilisation of :~ 2 months (a) raw materials, (b) machines (e,g, machine production calculations) f and (c) labour* so that there will be no bottlenecks* 17

Maintenance Programme Carrying out simple maintenance and repairs of all machinery and equipment 9 Approximate time scale 1 month TKAINING Thoroughly trained in one of the following departments i (1) Knitting (2) Quality Control (3) Pattern making (4) Production (5) Production Planning (6) Finishing 2k months months Note» Employers are reminded that f when planning on~the~job training for trainees/apprentices, this training programme should be used as a guideline f but employers are advised to adhere to it as nearly as possible. 18

Job level Craftsman Job Title Clothing Machine Mechanic Type of Training s 3-year craft apprenticeship with attendance at a related craft course on a part-time day or blockrelease or evening basis* Programme Approximate time scale Induction (1) Guided tour of factory* 1 day (2) Company and factory regulations* (3) Government regulations (k) Safety, health and proper workiug attitude* (5) Organisation of the factory* (6) Information about the training programme» Basic Workshop Practice (1) Use and care of measuring and marking tools, such as rules, squares, protractors, scribers, centre punches f dividers, and micrometers* (2) Use and care of various types of files* (3) Use and care of chisels, scrapers, drills, reamers, handtaps and dies, Interpretation of simple engineering drawings* Sketching of simple machine parts and attachments, 12 months 19

Specialised Training on Clothing Machinery :- Cutting' Programme (1) Dismantliag f assembly and adjustment of portable power knives and cloth drills. Approximate time scale 2k months (2) Simple repair and maintenance of machinery used in the cutting room* Stitching (1) Dismantling and assembly of the following sewing machines f the functions of various parts; fitting procedures f adjustments and timing relationship s (a) Oscillating shuttle f Drop Feed f Single Needle, Lockstitch machine* (b) Eotary Hook f Drop Feed f Single Needle f Lockstitch machine* (c) High Speed Eotary Semi-Automatic Lubrication machine* (d) Single-thread Chainstitch machine* (e) Two-thread Chainstitch machine* (f) Blindstitch machine* (g) (h) Overedging machine* Covering Stitch machine* 20

Approximate time scale (i) Zig-Zag Drop Lockstitch f or flat lock or any other machines are mainly in particular factory for producing special garments such as lingerie. (2) Dismantling f assembly and adjustment of following machines f the functions of various parts; fitting procedures f and timing' relationship i (a) Automatic lockstitch Button and Tacking machines. (b) Automatic Single Thread Chainstitch Button Sewing and Tacking machines* (c) Automatic Lockstitch Buttonhole machine* (d) Automatic Single- Thread Chainstitch. ' ' 'Buttonhole machine* (e) Automatic Two- thread Chainstitch Buttonhole machine * (3) Daily maintenance work of all machines used in the sewing room* Make and fit various guides, folders and attachments to facilitate production, reduce handling time and improve quality*

Programme Approximate time scale Pressing Equipment Fitting f simple repair and maintenance procedures for steam irons f vacuum pumps, different types of press, pressing equipment f boiler and equipment Services (1) Electricity s Simple circuits f use of ammeters and voltmeters* Interpretation of simple wiring diagrams relating to clothing machinery* (2) Carry out simple testing, checking and repairing electrical installations in clothing machinery (3) Simple maintenance procedures for air compressors* Note : Employers are reminded that, when planning on~the-gob training for trainees/apprentices, this training programme should be used as a guideline, but employers are advised to adhere to it as nearly as possible* 22

Job Job Title Type of Training Craftsman Knitting Machine Mechanic I 3»year craft apprenticeship with attendance at a related craft course on a part-time day or blockrelease or basis* Induction Programme (1) Guided tour of factory* (2) Company and factory regulations* (3) Government regulations (4) Safety f health and proper working attitude (5) Organisation of the factory* (6) Information about the training programme, Approximate titt scale 1 day Basic Workshop Practice (1) Use and care of power, hand and 12 months machine tools of the trade* (2) Use and care of measuring and special instruments, (3) Practice of soldering, brazing and welding* (if) Interpretation of simple engineering drawings* (5) Sketching of simple machine parts and attachments* C6) Use and care of simple electrical measuring instruments* (7) Interpretation of simple wiring diagrams

Training on Knitting Machinery Programme (1) Dismantling f assembly and adjustments of the following machinery 5 (a) (b) Hand (c) flat power knitting f (d) Circular knittlag 9 (e) Fully fashion straight bar knitting) and (f) Any other knitting machines used in the factory (2) Operate and control of all available knitting machine ry* (j) Prepare pattern wheels f pattern drums f pattern cards or pattern tapes from the pattern drafts for various knitting machines* (^f) Machine cleaning f oiling and simple adjustment* (5) Carrying out machine erection, setting, overhauling, conversion and repairs as instructed by his supervisor* (6) Check machine parts for wear and faults and carry out any repairs or replacement if necessary* Approximate time scale 18 months (?) Correct all setting to the required tolerances on various knitting machines (8) Make simple parts and gauges.

Programme Carrying out daily routine work of repairing f cleaning f and lubricating on all machinery in the factory* Any work assigned by management related to a mechanic* Approximate tiae scale 6 months Note J Saployers are reminded that f when planning on-the-job training for trainees/apprentices f this training programme should be used as a guideline f but employers are advised to adhere to it as nearly as possible*

Job level : Craftsman Job Title I Plant Maintenance Mechanic (Clothing) Type of Training 5 >»year organised craft apprenticeship f or 2year organised craft apprenticeship if preceded by a one-year full-time basic craft (apprenticeship^ course or a three year course in a prevocational school, with attendance at a related craft course on a part-time day or block-release or evening basis Induction Programme (1) Guided tour of factory. (2) Company and factory regulations* (3) Government regulations» Safety, health and proper work attitude* (5) Organisation of the factory (6) Information about the training programme* Approximate time scale 1 day Basic Workshop Practice (1) Practical properties, selection and application of materials* (2) Correct use and care of basic manual and power-operated hand tools and machine tools» (3) Marking out and use of measuring instruments* Heat treatment. (5) Fabrication processes, (6) Overhaul of mechanical parts and plant*.. 12 months 26

jragragme Approximate time scale (?) Simple electrical and isolation of equipment the supply source. (8) Electrical wiring work, and overhaul of basic electrical equipment* (9) Use and care of commonly used electrical instruments (10) Engineering drawings, circuit and wiring diagrams, sketching and use of conventional symbols* Specialised Training, * (1) Correct use and care of the tools of the plant including machine 2k.months and power operated hand tools 9 instruments and test equipment* (2) Installation, maintenance, repair and modification of electrical wiring $ electrical and mechanical components and equipment to required specifications* (3) Operation, testing, maintenance and repair of compressed air systems, boiler and ancilliary equipment and pressing equipment Interpretation of engineering drawings, building plans, wiring and circuit diagrams, installation and service manuals Note : Employers are reminded that, when planning on-the-job training for trainees/apprentices, this training programme should be used as a guideline, but'employers are advised to adhere to it as nearly as possible*