MGB V8 Roadster restoration project Report 72

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1 8th September I thought it would be useful to try this product and report how I got on with it. Reading the instructions it all seemed quite easy. You push the tube down into the box section. Press the top of the aerosol can and slowly pull the plastic tube. I hope it does what it says on the box! The problem was that there is no indication as to where the end of the tube is. Hence when I pulled the tube it came out of the hole and as well as a lot of paint! V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 1

2 I did then try putting a bit of silver duct tape near the end and this worked fine for the first time until the duct tape got covered in the green coating. To help spread the material around the box sections I spun the bodyshell on the spit. The results you can see below! This internal frame coating certainly sticks. This is a photo of my fingers after I had wiped the material off my hands and washed them! All this did was to make a mess of the primer I had recently spent a day rubbing down! I was hoping this product would be useful for owners of MGBs that were in paint and before injecting the box sections with Waxoil or similar. If you do use it on a painted bodyshell be very careful. Before I attempted spraying the coating in the other box sections I revised my ideas. I put on a pair of protective gloves, got a rag ready and used red tape to make three flags towards the end of the clear plastic tube. This was to give me more warning that I was getting near to the end of the plastic tube, when withdrawing it from the box section, so I could then release the aerosol button in time, before it sprayed everywhere. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 2

3 The three red flags in place and ready to use the second aerosol can. The material does seem to creep between the spot welds in the joints which is what I wanted it to do, because that is where the rust lurks waiting for some moisture to make the rust spread. I poked the tube in first, then attached white plastic press button to the second aerosol can when I was ready to spray. This system seemed to work much better and the three red flags I put on the clear plastic pipe seemed to work well, I even managed to release the aerosol button before I sprayed myself and everything else around. You definitely need to release aerosol button before the spraying cone, which is fitted at the end of the plastic pipe, comes out of the box section. It looks by the state of the floor that enough of the product went into the sills! In conclusion, I think this Internal Frame Coating (item number 12515) sold by FROST at per can seems to do what it says destroys rust hiding inside the chassis. They can be contacted on I found that I could treat all the box sections on the MGB bodyshell with just two aerosol cans of the material. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 3

4 Getting ready for seam sealing. The black top has cleaning thinners in it. I wanted to spot prime some of the areas on the bodyshell where I had coated them in etch primer and bought a one litre of 2-pack hi build primer. I needed to do this before I could seal the seams on the bodyshell. Not very happy with the finish I was getting with the tubes of sealer. I used brush on sealer on some seams. It works best using a worn out brush with short bristles. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 4

5 Here I have put a line of sealer to seal the join between the glass fibre rear bumper and the rear panel before fixing it in position. All the seams sealed inside the bodyshell with brush on sealer. The idea is to get the seam sealer into any gaps to stop any moisture getting between the two sheets of metal. The modern brush on sealers seem, no pun intended, to be superior to the thick tar like substance that BL used originally. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 5

6 As I wanted to fit the wings to the bodyshell before it went for painting I coated the mating surfaces and areas that could not be easily reached with the spray gun before I fitted the wings and front spoiler, with 2-pack Teal Blue paint. To seal the joint between the wing and the shell I used ribbon sealant that comes as a thick sealant on a roll with plastic removable backing. You cut it into the length you require and push it onto the areas you want to seal. Then remove the backing and you are ready to bolt the wing in place. As you tighten the bolts it squeezes into the joint between the two panels. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 6

7 Here you can see how the ribbon sealer has squeezed out of the joint between the wing and the inner wing panels. The bottom of the wing all bolted up. The bottom of the front wings behind the wheel arch is fitted using 5mm stainless steel set screws, nuts and the special oval washers that are available from the likes of Moss and others. I prefer to use hexagon bolts rather than Phillips or Posidrive headed screws as hexagon headed bolts are easier to undo when they get rusty. The stainless steel set screws I used were too long; I cut them off to length after I had bolted the wing to the bodyshell. Sealer from a cartridge was also used to seal the joint before the bolts were tightened. More seams that I have sealed using brush on sealer. The seams that are going to show; under the bonnet area, I am leaving to Mark at The Jaymic Workshop, as he has had a lot more experience than I have at this art. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 7

8 Just when I thought all the welding was complete I realised there was a hole in the right hand front wing for an aerial. This is the captured nut that the splash guard bolts to at the bottom. Not enough room to fit the ¼ UNF bolt, I had to cut away a bit of wing to make room for the bolt head and bend the flap with the captured nut to make the splash panel fit.. I carefully recessed the hole with a small ball pien hammer. Cleaned the area around the hole back to bare metal. Cut out a small circle of sheet metal with tin snips. This side was no problem. The bolt fitted fine with no adjustment needed. The problem probably occurred as I had to make one of these nut plates. The plate welded over the aerial hole. I then etch primed both sides, filled the area and sanded it ready for primer. If I fit a radio, I will use a discrete interior aerial. If you have any comments, suggestions, or useful tips I can pass on, you can me at: mikemacartney@btconnect.com 10 th September V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Rebuild-Report-72 8

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