EZ-Level Quick Reference
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- Mervyn Young
- 5 years ago
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1 EZ-Level Quick Reference 1) If you do not have a Self-Leveling Laser Level: Mark your Base Line onto the wall 34-5/8 from finish floor. (highest point on floor). See our video: How to install base cabinets for details. ****If you DO have a Self-leveling Laser Level skip this step. 2) Unpack EZ-Levels: Screw in Long rods and slide units together forming Sets (page 2-3) 3) Looking at your floor plan: Make sure you ordered enough levelers. (page 4) 4) Turning your cabinets on to their backs Screw each cabinet run together at their stiles and backside (page 4) 5) Using the drilling jig Carefully mark for each access hole. (page 5) 6) Using the 7/8 boring bit Bore A TEST HOLE first! Take one set of levers set it into position and make sure that the two adjusting rods can be accessed through the hole with no obstruction. If all is ok go ahead and bore the remaining holes. (page 6) 7) Turn all cabinet sections upside down. Mount each set of levelers using the 1 and ½ mounting screws (provided). Making sure the adjusting rod is ALMOST FLUSH with the toe kick face. THIS IS VITAL!!!! (see page: 7-8. See TIP #3 for explanation)!!! 8) Turnover and set all cabinets into place. If you are using a Self-Leveling Laser simply turn it on and set the laser just above the highest cabinet. 1/8 or so. (page 8) 9) IMPORTANT!: Using the FRONT levelers (bottom adjusting rod) raise the backside of the cabinets almost up to the Base or Laser line (within a 1/16 or so). Left side then right side. (**The front levelers will raise the backside straight up the wall)! (page 8) 10) THEN: Using the back levelers (top rod) raise the backs up TO the laser line. 11) If you did the last two steps properly the fronts of the cabinets will be slightly below the laser line. Now Slowly raise the fronts up so that the laser line just starts to show up (left side first then right). Note: If you do not have a laser lever You would now place your hand level on each side (facing front to back) and just as before raise the fronts up till you get a bubble. (page 8) 12) Now adjust the MIDDLE levelers. Just carefully adjust them so that your cabinet is level all the way across the back and the front. Also make sure every foot is planted securely on the ground. (cabinet runs have levelers on each end and at each seam in the middle ) (page 8) ***IMPORTANT***: The levelers are very strong! Therefore, if you adjust your cabinet a bit too far past your mark. It will be necessary to push down on the top of the cabinet to adjust the levelers back down. Especially on light weight cabinets like small 12 base cabinets.
2 Introduction Thank you for choosing the EZ-Level system! Although I m sending you several pages of instructions it s to arm you with the details necessary to make your job perfect every time. In essence you will be doing the following: 1) Drill the access holes for the levelers (if necessary) 2) Fasten them onto the bottom sides of the cabinet 3) Adjusting the cabinets up or down till level THAT S IT! You can always call us for questions: :00 5:00 M-S Don t forget: Send us an with your feedback! Love to hear your comments. Thank you and God Bless You! Brooks and Bren Courtney Page1
3 EZ-level Instructions Remember: One EZ-level Set = (1) Front and (1) Back leveler with adjusting rods and mounting hardware. Note: The adjusting rod will angle slightly upward as it is inserted into the front leveler. Inventory Simply take the number of sets purchased and multiply that number by the numbers below: (Example: (7) Sets would have (7) long rods, (7) Rear Levelers, ( 7) Front Levelers w/ short rods, (42) 1 Mounting screws, (28) ½ Mounting screws, (1) Jig, and (1) Nut Driver) Long adjusting rods (1) per set Rear Levelers (no rod) (1) per set Front Levelers (w/short rod) (1) per set Mounting Screws 1 (4) per set Mounting Screws ½ (4) per set Drill Jig (1) per order #2 Square Bit Driver (1) per order Page2
4 Assembly Screw the Long Adjusting Rods into Rear Levelers. The Front Levelers already have the short adjusting rods screwed in place. Slide the Long rods (now attached to the back levelers) through pass-through holes in the front levelers. (You will notice an elongated hole on the back side of all levelers. This allows the long rod to pass through without rubbing) This is one set of levelers (minus mounting hardware) Page3
5 A Little About Cabinet Runs A cabinet run is two or more cabinets in a row that will be screwed together both front and back making them in essence one very long cabinet. These cabinets will share a set of levelers at every seam (where they are joined together). Two Cabinet RUN Three Cabinet RUN Independent Cabinets Fig A. Our web site gives detailed examples of sample layouts if you have forgotten. EZ-Level.com How to order Make sure you ordered correctly! Looking at Fig A. We would need (10) 24 sets of levers and (1) Single leveler (blue arrow). (Remember: Short cabinets 15 or less do not require a Set. They only require a single leveler). Single Leveler ***I screw all of my cabinet runs together BEFORE I drill or mount any levelers.*** 1) Lay all your cabinets on their backs. 2) Clamp & Screw the front stiles together. 3) Screw the BACK SIDES of the cabinets together. (All cabinet runs MUST be screwed together in the backs as well as the fronts) One screw in the rear about 1 from the back of the cabinets will be fine. (you can use the same screws that you use to screw the stiles together with) If you are using framed cabinets there might be a gap between the two cabinets If so put a shim between them. Page4
6 Installation A quick note about toe kicks. All cabinet brands are different. (and there are thousands)! Most have a toe kick sub-panel already attached to the cabinet. This kind of cabinet will usually have a very thin toe-kick that will be glued to the toe kick subpanel after your cabinets are installed. If so you will need to drill access holes in the panel to adjust the levelers. Once the toe-kick is put into place, you will never see the levelers again. Toe Kick sub-panel Some cabinets are shipped without a toe-kick panel. These cabinets will usually have a thicker toe-kick (usually ¾ thick). Once your cabinets are installed, you simply nail the toe kick into place. No drilling will be necessary for this type of cabinet. If this is the case, you can skip the next step. No panel 1) Always turn your cabinet(s) on their BACKS first. Drilling for the EZ-Levels: (if necessary) 2) Place the Drilling Jig onto the toe-kick area and slide it to the right or left side until the center tab touches the inside wall of the cabinet side. Then mark the hole that is closest to the side. See below right photo. Toe Kick sub-panel Slide the center tab to the INSIDE wall of cabinet. This will line up the holes with the ezlevel which will be mounted on the INSIDE of the cabinet. Page5
7 Note: Drilling through the toe-kick panel is usually pretty straight forward. Most panels are glued into place with wood strengtheners inside, but some cabinet manufactures use plastic clips, staples, L brackets etc which can make an otherwise easy task difficult. Hint: Toe-Kick Sub-Panels are not structurally significant. I have even removed a few that were causing me trouble all together. They are only there as a support for the toe kick. If you need to remove a toe-kick panel you can usually tap it out of place with a hammer, and replace it after the cabinets are installed. I have even installed the ¼ floppy toe-kick without the subpanel altogether. As long as you fasten the toe kick to each cabinet along the fronts. See photo to right. 3) Drill your hole using a high speed 7/8 boring bit). NOTE: If your Drilling Jig was lined up properly the 7/8 hole will slightly scrape the inside of the cabinet wall. This is normal. Set an EZ-Level in place to make sure both adjusting rods line up correctly inside the 7/8 hole. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS THAT THE RODS ARE CENTERED ENOUGH SO THAT THE #2 SQUARE BIT FITS WITHOUT PROBLEMS.*** If not get this right before drilling the other cabinets! Toe-kick panel Fig B. Again: The ONLY CRITICAL issue is that you can easily fit the #2 driver into the adjusting rods with no obstruction! Work with One cabinet Get it right and then proceed. ***Larger boring bits work just as well and usually provide even better access in tight situations. If all is well drill the remaining hole on the other side of your cabinet. Page6
8 Mounting the EZ-Levels 1) Carefully flip the cabinet upside down. (on its top see below left photo) Place (1) EZ-Level set on the side of your cabinet Holding the rear leveler slide it toward the front until the long adjusting rod is close to flush with the face of the toe kick. PAST the toe kick will not work! Fasten with a 1 screw (provided). Move the front leveler till the short adjusting rod is also almost flush with the toe kick as well. Fasten with (2) 1 provided screws. Screw the 1 Pan Head Wood Screws (2) through the side holes and into the side of the cabinet as shown by the arrow to left. ***Caution. Do not overtighten! Only tighten till good~n~snug! Do not crush the casing onto to leveling foot or strip out the threads in the cabinet side. NOTE: There are (3) holes available for mounting. This gives you a choice. You can choose any two of the three (or) you can install additional 1 screw if you like. (not provided). Only 2 screws are required 2) Now screw in the 7/16 mounting screws. Two for each leveler. These will keep the levelers from breaking away from the wall of the cabinets. Very important. Especially on particle board cabinets! NOTE: The two 7/16 screws are the most critical. Finished independent cabinet. Remember A run of cabinets will not require (2) sets of levelers on every cabinet. Page7
9 Leveling! Here is the fastest way to use the EZ-level system: 1) Move all cabinets and cabinet runs into position. 2) Set your laser line about slightly higher than the highest cabinet. 1/8 This will be your base line. Note: If you are using a hand level you will need to draw your baseline on the walls BEFORE you set any cabinets into place (approx 34-5/8 from finish floor) Then follow steps 3&4. 3) Adjust the FRONT levelers up first! (that will be the bottom adjusting rod) left side then right (this will cause your cabinet to rise straight up the wall as opposed to tilting forward) ***Adjust the cabinets up till you all are about 1/8 from the base line!*** 4) Now Adjust the Back left & right levelers up until the cabinet reaches the base line on both sides. (this will be the top adjusting rod) 5) Adjust the fronts up till the laser beam is split between the front of the cabinet and the wall. If you are using a hand level simply place the level on the left side Raise the front up till level and repeat for the right side then the center areas. 6) Now adjust the Center Levelers so they too touch the ground and so that the center is also leveled in the same fashion. (on long cabinet runs you will usually notice a slight sagging or bowing until the center levelers are adjusted into position). Cabinet Run Left side Center Levelers Right side Tip 1! Walls are rarely plumb! You will almost always need some shims between your cabinets and the wall to fill the gap once your cabinets are level. NEVER screw the cabinets to the wall until the gap has been filled! If you do your cabinets will no longer be level. Tip 2! Never strip out the adjusting rods! (While leveling your cabinets MAKE SURE the #2 driver is firmly seated in the adjusting rod. If not you could strip the rod and that leveler would be rendered useless! Once seated properly you will never have a problem. Tip 3! Never back-out the adjusting rods too far! Remember When you installed the levelers the adjusting rods were positioned so that they were ALMOST FLUSH WITH THE TOE KICK. So that as you adjust the cabinets / levelers up and down you will be essentially screwing those hex rods in and out. Simply remember to NEVER unscrew the adjusting rods past the face of the toe-kick! (They can be screwed back in but it s a pain because you usually have to turn the cabinet upside down to do it.) **** IMPORTANT***: The levelers are very strong! Therefore, if you adjust your cabinet a bit too far (past your mark). It will usually be necessary to push down on the top of the cabinet to adjust the levelers back down. Especially on light weight cabinets like small 12 base cabinets. Page8
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