1800 x 1800 (6'x6') Playhouse / Outdoor Shed

Transcription

1 1800 x 1800 (6'x6') Playhouse / Outdoor Shed By Dimensions Floor mm x 1800mm (6ft x 6ft); Height inside mm (74"); Height overall mm (7ft); Introduction This is a very sturdy playhouse, constructed more along the lines of a real house so it will last for years. The roof design allows for storage space in the eaves, perfect for storing books, toys etc. and to help keep the floor area uncluttered. All the framing lumber, walls and roof are made using 100x50 (2x4) stock. 100x50 (2x4) is a very common size lumber and is readily available at most lumber yards. In some cases it can be less expensive than a smaller stock size, however you can use a smaller size framing lumber such as 75x50 (2x3), as long as you make the necessary adjustments to achieve the same overall dimensions. The exterior covering (both walls and roof) is covered with a cement fibreboard, a horizontal lap siding (clapboard, weather board) that is increasingly out-

2 performing its lumber counterpart. The roof and walls are of the same material purely as a convenience. Cement fibreboard siding is now very obtainable and its popularity is growing fast. It is user-friendly, very strong, resistant to fires, insects and rot, and looks good. Lumber and materials information The playhouse walls and roof are covered with a 240mm wide x 7.5mm thick (9 1/4" wide x 5/16" thick) cement fibreboard. Cement fibreboard lap siding is now very obtainable and its popularity is growing fast. It is easy to work with, very strong, resistant to fires, insects and rot, and looks good. One company that manufactures cement fibreboards in many countries worldwide including North America, Europe, Australasia and Asia, is James Hardie. Go to their website to find a stockist near you. There are also other companies that manufacture a similar product or alternatively, you can use lumber boards (clap board) in place of cement fibreboard. Lumber sizes The dimensions of the lumber used for this project are given in both metric and inches. All dimensions are first written in millimeters, followed by feet and/or inches in brackets. The lumber used in this project is dressed (surfaced, smooth) lumber. Therefore the actual size (width and thickness) of the lumber is less than the nominal size. The nominal size is usually the size that you refer to when purchasing the lumber, but the actual size is different.

3 METRIC Nominal size Actual size 100x50 90x45 100x100 90x90 150x25 140x18 300x25 280x18 INCHES Nominal size Actual size 2x4 1 1/2x 3 1/2 4x4 3 1/2x 3 1/2 1x6 3/4x 5 1/2 1x12 3/4 x 11 1/4 Safe working practices Cement fibreboard. Working with cement fibreboard, as with most unnatural products, can pose health risks. It is therefore advisable to obtain all necessary information about possible health hazards from the manufacturer of the product or from the outlet where the product is purchased. Sometimes information can also be obtained from the manufacturer's website. Some common safe working practices include... Work in outdoor areas with ample ventilation Minimize dust when cutting by using a 'score and snap' knife or guillotine-type shears Only use circular saw if attached to appropriate vacuum bag Wear a properly fitted approved dusk mask Refer to material safety data sheets from the product's manufacturer Making concrete. Prolonged contact with fresh concrete will burn your skin. Wear safety goggles, gloves, rubber boots and long sleeves when working with concrete. Shopping list NOTE 1: The list does not include door or window materials or make allowances for nails, hinges, door latches, door bolts, window catches, caulking sealant or any fasteners. NOTE 2: Door and window materials will be dealt with on the respective door and window pages.

4 Lumber/ Material Used For Amount 100x50 (2x4) Dressed framing lumber 300x25 (1x12) suitable for exterior use 150x25 (1x6) suitable for exterior use 100x25 (1x4) suitable for exterior use 50x25 (1x2) suitable for exterior use 50x25 (1x2) 25x25 (1x1) 1200mm x 2400mm (4'x8') plywood sheets 9mm (3/8") thick 1200mm x 2400mm (4'x8') plywood sheet 12mm (1/2") thick Walls and roof Soffit board under eaves and under gable overhang Fascia board and Barge board (gable rake board) Barge board capping Gable battens Inside finishing trim Trim around window (interior) Roof sheathing Gable ends cover (siding) 100 lineal meters (330 lineal ft) 3.8 lineal meters (13 lineal ft) 10.5 lineal meters (35 lineal ft) 5.5 lineal meters (18 lineal ft) 8 lineal meters (26 lineal ft) 14 lineal meters (46 lineal ft) 5.5 lineal meters (18 lineal ft) 2 sheets 1 sheets 50 x 50 (2x2) galvanized flashing Ridge capping 2400mm (8ft) Cement fibreboard siding or alternative type weather board Building wrap, cover underlay or similar Roof cover/siding/gable soffit board Under siding and roof boards Enough to cover 15.2 sq meters (164 sq ft) 16 sq meters (172 sq ft) FLOOR: Option one - Lumber floor 100x100 (4x4) Treated lumber Skids 2 pieces at 1800mm (72") 100x50 (2x4) Treated lumber 1200mm x 2400mm (4'x8') plywood sheets 18mm (3/4") thick Floor Joists and rim joists Floor 15 lineal meters (50 lineal ft) 1.5 sheets FLOOR: Option two - Concrete slab 40kg (94lb) bags of Portland cement Concrete slab 3 bags Sand Gravel 20mm (3/4") diameter and smaller. Concrete slab Concrete slab Approximately 0.2 cubic meters (7 cubic ft) Approximately 0.3 cubic meters (11 cubic ft) #3 rebar (10mm (3/8") steel rod ) Concrete slab 10 meters (30 ft) EXTERIOR CORNERS: Option one - soakers Galvanized soakers Exterior corners 24 EXTERIOR CORNERS: Option two - wood trim 100x25 (1x4) suitable for exterior use Exterior corners Four 1300mm (52") 75x25 (1x3) suitable for exterior use Exterior corners Four 1300mm (52") Frame cutting list

5 Amount and length Used for 100x50 (2x4) dressed framing lumber, walls and roof (96") long (72") long Roof ridge beam and 2 lower horizontal members Top and bottom wall plates (front and rear walls) (65") long Top and bottom wall plates (side walls) (65") long Bottom horizontal member gable truss frame (46 1/2") long Wall studs (46 1/2") long angled each end 30 degrees off square Common rafters and fly rafters (39 1/2") long angled each end as shown on plan Raking frame members, gable truss (24 1/2") long Ridge beam support (11") long angled back one end 30 degrees off square Vertical members gable frame 12 approximately 255 (10 1/2") long. Check on-site Blocking between the end rafters and the fly rafters 10 approximately 210 (8 1/4") long, angled as shown on plan Common rafter attachments 300x25 (1x12) dressed lumber (suitable for exterior use) (75 1/2") Soffit board under gable overhang 150x25 (1x6) dressed lumber (suitable for exterior use) 4 approximately 1400 (56") long angled each end as shown on plan. Barge board (gable rake board) 2 approximately 2400 (96") long. Check on-site Fascia board 100x100 (4x4) dressed treated lumber (72") long. Skids 100x50 (2x4) dressed treated lumber (72") long. Rim joists 6 approximately 1710 (69") long. Check on-site Floor joists

6 Plan - Front elevation This is the front elevation plan. This plan gives a perspective of the frame viewed from the front. This plan also gives the width and height of the playhouse front wall frame, the shape of the roof and an idea of construction from the ground to the apex. The skids (which are what the structure sits on) are of 100x100 (4x4) stock and the joists are of 100x50 (2x4) stock. Both skids and floor joists need to be of lumber suitable for outside use. The floor, 18mm (3/4") plywood is fixed to the floor joists and then the rest of the frame is built on that. The playhouse frame (wall and roof) is all of 100x50 (2x4) stock.

7 Side elevation This is the side elevation plan - both sides of the structure are the same. This plan shows a perspective of the frame viewed from the side, dimensions of the side frame, placement of the studs and roof rafters.

8 Plans - Roof, cuts and angles The entire roof frame is constructed solely of 100x50 (2x4) stock. All the pieces that require angle cuts are shown below.

9 Making a lumber floor 1800mm x 1800mm (6ft x 6ft) floor on skids Place the 100x100 (4x4) skids level and parallel on firm ground free of any vegetation. Space the skids apart so that the overall measurement is 1400mm (56"). On level ground, make up the Floor Frame comprising of two 100x50 (2x4) joists nailed together at each end, two 100x50 (2x4) intermediate joists evenly spaced and two 100x50 (2x4) rim (boundary) joists. The end result should be a square 1800x1800 (72" x 72"). Place the square floor frame on top of the skids, ensure the floor frame is square and then fasten in place. Toenail (angle nail) through the joists into the skids. Cover the floor with 18mm (3/4") plywood, nailing a maximum of 200mm (8") apart on all joists. Any join should be over a joist. All the wood used in the floor structure should be suitable for exterior use.

10 Making a concrete floor 1.) On prepared firm ground (free of vegetation) make a 1800mm x 1800mm frame (inside measurement) out of 100x20 (1x4) form work. Note: the form work is the frame that borders the concrete and stops it from spreading. Ensure that the form work is square and level and then secure it by hammering pointed 50x50 (2x2) or 50x25 (1x2) pegs at 900mm (3ft) intervals against the outside of the form work. Dig a trench around the perimeter of the floor area about 100mm (4") deep and about the width of the spade wide or approximately 200mm (8"). This acts like a 'footing' to give the perimeter of the concrete floor more depth and strength since it is the part of the floor that will be supporting the shed walls. 2.) Lightly hose (dampen) the pour area with water prior to pouring the concrete. Work as quickly as possible when placing concrete in form work Start pouring the concrete into the pour area. Fill up the trench (footing) first to a height approximately 75mm (3") below the top of the form work. Lay a rod of #3 rebar (which is 10mm (3/8") thick reinforcing steel), around the perimeter of the pour area. The rod should be at least 50mm (2") in from the form work and at least 50mm (2") down from the top of the form work. Wherever the reinforcing rod joins, make an overlap of at least 400mm (16") and tie together with tie wire.

11 3.) Fill the pour area up with concrete approximately to the height of the top of the form work. Tap around the outside of the form work with a hammer. This will vibrate the wet concrete and help it to settle, as well as getting rid of any air pockets. Use a straight piece of lumber (the bracing piece off the form work will do) to "screed" or level out the concrete. Work the screed board back and forth with a sawing motion along the tops of the form work until the concrete is level all over. 4.) Smooth over the level concrete with a trowel or float. Hold the blade flat against the surface and sweep it back and forth in wide arcs. Tip: you will probably not get it near perfect in the first going-over, but that doesn't matter. Leave it until it dries a bit or until all the excess surface water has evaporated and then re-trowel. A novice may need to go over it another two or three times to get a nice smooth finish, letting it dry a bit in between each smoothing. NOTE 1: The form work can be taken off the next day ONLY if it can be easily removed. If for some reason the form work needs a lot of hammering and knocking to remove it, then best leave it in place for three days or so, until the concrete is hard enough to withstand the punishment. NOTE 2: The concrete will now need to set (cure). Keep the concrete moist for about three days by hosing with a fine mist every now and then. This is

12 especially crucial in warmer conditions. NOTE 3: Concrete in direct sunlight should be covered with some type of building wrap, roofing felt or shaded for the curing period. If you must pour the concrete on a very hot day, then leave it till mid or late afternoon. Concrete sets very fast on hot days in direct sunlight and can be hard if not impossible to work with. This is especially a concern when you're hand mixing, which requires a bit of time. Instructions - Roof Fix 12mm (1/2") plywood sheathing on top of the roof rafters. A standard 2400mm x 1200mm (4ft x 8ft) sheet should fit each side neatly without the need for any cutting. Nailing should be a maximum of 200mm (8") apart on all rafters, ridge beam and lower horizontal roof frame member. Next fix the fascia boards (one each side of the roof) to the lower horizontal roof frame members. The fascia board should be flush with the top and ends of the lower horizontal

13 roof frame member. Cover the plywood sheathing firstly with building wrap and then with the cement fibre boards. Cut the boards the same length as the roof. See below for cutting instructions. Begin by fixing the bottom board in place overhanging the fascia board by 30mm (1 1/4") and work up towards the top so that each board is overlapping the previous board by 30mm (1 1/4"). See below for nailing instructions. Fix a length of galvanized flashing on the ridge covering the cement fibre boards by at least 50mm (2") each side. Fix the barge boards to the fly rafters flush with the top of the cement fibre boards. Run the barge board about 150mm (6") past the fascia board and round the bottom corners so as to eliminate any sharp points.

14 Next fix the barge cap over the top of the barge board and covering the ends of the cement fibre boards. Round off the lower ends of the barge cap and caulk between the barge cap and the cement fibre boards. Note: Cutting cement fibreboards Cement fibreboards can be cut by scoring (scratching a deep mark) across the board and then by snapping. Score repeatedly against a straight edge to a depth of about 1/3 of the board thickness and then snap (bend) the board upwards to achieve the break. You can use a purpose-made score and snap tool that has a hardened scoring tip or similar type tool. Also hand or pneumatic guillotine (shears) can be used. There are also other ways of cutting cement fibreboard, but this method produce the least dust. Note: Nailing cement fibreboards Use 50mm (2") galvanized flathead nails. Only nail where there is something solid beneath the board such as a stud or a rafter. Nail where the boards overlap. Do not nail closer than 20mm (3/4") from the end of a board. Pre-drill any nail hole that is closer than 50mm (2") from the end of any board.

15 Instructions - Wall Cover fig.1 Cover the wall frames with building wrap. Fix a continuous strip of treated wood (the same thickness as the cement fibreboard) to the bottom plate (see fig.2) before fixing the first (bottom) board in place. Let the first board hang 50mm (2") below the bottom plate. Continue with the subsequent boards working from bottom to top ensuring that each board is overlapping the previous board by 30mm (1 1/4").

16 See previous page for cutting and nailing instructions. External corners fig.2 option 1: Corner soakers Used mainly in Australasia but not so common in North America and parts of Europe. Corner soakers are purpose-made to be used with a wide variety of weather boards or board siding. They are usually made of thin aluminum or galvanized metal. Apply the soakers to each row of boards before continuing with the next row. Nail soaker (at the top) into position before fixing the ends of the boards. (See fig.2 option 1.)

17 fig.2 option 2: Corner trim Corner trim is a widely used method of finishing external corners on structures with wood or cement fibreboard siding. When the cement fibreboards are fixed to the walls you can then apply the corner trim. The top of the trim will need to be cut at an angle the same as the rake of the roof. By using one piece of 100x25 (1x4) wood and one piece of 75x25 (1x3) wood at each corner you will achieve a balanced look. (See fig.2 option 2.) Caulk between the cement fibreboards and the trim. Instructions - Making the door How to make a door suitable for a shed or a playhouse. This particular door is made specifically for a playhouse although a bigger version would also be suitable for a shed or similar type of structure. Full page contents are at the bottom of the page. The lumber For the door you will need 2200mm (88") of 50x50 (2x2) dressed/surfaced lumber and 1500mm (60") of 150x50 (2x6) dressed/surfaced lumber. NOTE: The actual size of the lumber when dressed finishes smaller than the nominal size stated above so make any necessary allowances. For more information on lumber sizes click here. Also ensure the lumber that you use is suitable for exterior use.

18 You will also need a piece of 3mm (1/8") thick acrylic sheet (plastic glass) for the pane, a panel of 12mm (1/2") plywood, some strips of wood for the decorative grille, some glue and 4 pieces of 25mm metal strap. The door parts, the dimensions and cutting detail. A): Top rail. 150x50 (2x6) cut approximately 490mm (20 1/4") long to fit between the stiles. B): Middle rail. 150x50 (2x6) cut approximately 490mm (20 1/4") long to fit between the stiles. C): Bottom rail. 150x50 (2x6) cut approximately 490mm (20 1/4") long to fit between the stiles. D): Vertical stiles. Two pieces of 50x50 stock 1160mm long (2x2 stock 46 5/8" long) E): Acrylic sheet (plastic glass) 3mm (1/8") thick. Cut to suit F): Plywood panel 12mm (1/2") thick. Cut to suit G): Muntin bar (grille). In this case it is a strip of wood glued to the pane and is decorative only. Step 1. Cut and groove the door members Cut grooves in the members that house the acrylic sheet and the plywood panel. The grooves can be made with a router or by making multiple cuts with a circular saw or bench saw.

19 A): Top rail. Cut a 12mm deep x12mm wide (1/2" deep x 1/2" wide) groove along the bottom edge. B): Middle rail. Cut a 12mm deep x12mm wide (1/2" deep x 1/2" wide) groove along the top edge and a 12mm deep x3mm wide (1/2" deep x 1/8" wide) groove along the bottom edge. C): Bottom rail. Cut a 12mm deep x3mm wide (1/2" deep x 1/8" wide) groove along the top edge. D): Vertical stiles. Cut a 12mm deep x12mm wide (1/2" deep x 1/2" wide) groove along the portion that houses the plywood and cut a 12mm deep x3mm wide (1/2" deep x 1/8" wide) groove along the portion that houses the acrylic sheet. Step 2. Assemble the door 2a. Place the door members A, B, C, and D, together without nailing to measure the required sizes of the acrylic sheet and the plywood panel. Make them both 20mm (3/4") bigger than the opening so as to fit into the grooves. 2b. Unassemble the door members and then re-assemble with the acrylic sheet and the plywood panel in place. Fix by nailing as shown in the illustration and also nail metal straps to the top and the bottom of the door for added strength.

20 Step 3. Add the decorative grille Cut and glue strips of 10mm x 10mm (3/8"x 3/8") wood to the acrylic sheet (plastic glass) making a grid. This is solely decorative and the size of the wood can vary depending on personal preference. Use an exterior type glue that will adhere to both wood and plastic. Instructions -Making the door frame The door frame is all of the members that surround the door. The frame consist of head and side jambs. Some door frames also include the sill or threshold but that is not the case for this project. The lumber For the door frame you will need 3100mm (124") of 150x50 (2x6) dressed/surfaced lumber. NOTE: The actual size of the lumber when dressed finishes smaller than the nominal size stated above so make any necessary allowances. Dimensions and some important measurements Actual lumber sizes vary from place to place so use all dimensions as a guide only. The important measurements are... 1.) The overall height and width of the door frame should be 10mm (3/8") less than the overall height and width of the rough opening in the wall, to allow for some play.

21 2.) Allow enough gap between the door and frame to ensure ease of opening. In this case at least 5mm (3/16") clearance all the way around the door. Step 1. Rebate the frame Cut a rebate in a piece of lumber 150x50 x 3100 long (2x6 x 124" long). This is best done with a bench saw by making two cuts along the length of the lumber as follows: make one cut 50mm (2") deep along the edge and one cut 20mm (3/4") deep along the face. See the drawing. Step 2. Cut the frame members Cut the 3 frame members to length. The frame members comprise of a head piece and two side jamb pieces. Cut the head 640mm (25 5/8") long with a 45 angle cut at each end. Cut the two side jambs 1200mm (48") long with a 45 angle cut at the top ends and a standard square cut at the bottom ends. Step 3. Glue and fix Glue and nail the frame members together. Nail a temporary spacer to the bottom of the door frame to keep the side jambs parallel.

22 Instructions - Installing the door Step 1. Assemble Lay the door frame on a flat surface and then sit the door into the door frame rebate. Make sure that the gap between the door and door frame is even all the way around. Screw two hinges to the door and the door frame: one at the top and one at the bottom. Use either butt hinges or T-hinges. With the door still laying on a flat surface fix 75mm x 25mm (1x3) trim to the perimeter of the door frame.

23 Step 2. Install Place the completed door and frame into the door hole (rough opening) in the wall. Ensure that the door is level and plumb and that the gap between the door and frame is even all the way around. Then fix it in place by nailing through the trim into the wall. From inside the room, nail the door frame side jambs to the wall rough opening frame. Because the rough opening will be (or should be) slightly bigger than the door frame, packing pieces will need to be placed between the jamb and the wall frame where nailing occurs. Usually the door frame is of an exact width so that the inside of the window frame will be flush with the inside of the wall allowing for a molding, architrave or casing to go neatly around the frame. However... in this case the door frame is wider than the wall and therefore projects in to the room. Finish by fixing a 25mm x 25mm (1x1) square bead (piece of wood) around the perimeter of the door frame to the wall.

24 Fit hardware of choice: in this case we've used D handles and a roller catch so the door can always be easily pushed open. Safety Tip! How to help prevent little fingers from being jammed by a door. This particular door is likely to be more of a risk to little fingers than a normal house door because it is a lot narrower than a normal door making it easier for a child to reach the hinge side of the door, and also because the door is a playhouse door, it is always going to be surrounded by kids. Big kids should not be of concern, it is more for the little kids, crawlers and toddlers that may need a bit of "finger protection". Instructions - Making the window frame The window frame in this project is made out of 150x50 (2x6) dressed/surfaced lumber which is a common stock size. However, the actual size of the lumber when dressed finishes at approximately 140x45 (1 1/2"x 5 1/2") and this may vary slightly from place to place so make necessary allowances. Identifying the window parts A window frame is the outermost sides of a window. It consists of head, sill and two side jambs forming a box or rectangle to which the sash (moving segment of the window) is attached. The window parts are... [a] Jambs: The side upright members of the window frame. [b] Head: The top horizontal member of the window frame. [c] Sill: The bottom horizontal member of the window frame.

25 [d] Stile: The vertical member, or side of a sash. A sash is the moving segment of the window. [e] Top rail: The top horizontal member of a sash. [f] Bottom rail: The bottom horizontal member of a sash. [g] Trim: Finishing piece of wood around the outside of the window frame. [h] Muntin bar or grille: Strip of wood glued to pane. In this case it is decorative only. Some important measurements Actual lumber sizes vary from place to place so use all dimensions as a guide only. The important measurements are... 1.) The overall height and width of the window frame should be 10mm (3/8") less than the overall height and width of the rough opening in the wall to allow for some play. 2.) Allow enough gap between the sash and frame to ensure ease of opening. In this case we've used at least 5mm (3/16") clearance all the way around the sash. How wide should the window frame be? Usually the width of a window frame should be the same as the thickness of the wall, including the interior lining and the exterior siding. This is so the frame will be flush with both the inside and outside of the wall allowing for trims and moldings to fit neatly around both the inside and outside of the window. However in this case the frame is wider than the wall which means it will project into the building an inch or so, reflecting our personal preference regarding the finished look.

26 Instructions - making the window frame Step 1. Cut a rebate in a piece of lumber 150x50 x 1800 long (2x6 x 72" long). This is best done using a bench saw to make two cuts along the length of the lumber: one cut 50mm (2") deep along the edge and one cut 20mm (3/4") deep along the face. See the drawing. Step 2. Cut the 4 frame members to length: 2 pieces at 490mm (19 5/8") and 2 pieces at 390mm (15 5/8"). Angle each cut at 45. Step 3. Glue and nail the frame members together, forming a rectangle

27 Instructions - Making the window sash The window sash in this project is made out of 50x50 (2x2) dressed/surfaced lumber, however the actual size of the lumber when dressed finishes at approximately 45x45 (1 1/2"x 1 1/2"). Since this may vary slightly from place to place, make any necessary allowances. You will need four pieces of 50x50 (2x2) dressed/surfaced lumber: 2 pieces approximately 430mm (17 3/4") long and 2 pieces approximately 330mm (13 3/4") long. You will also need a piece of 3mm (1/8") thick acrylic sheet (plastic glass) for the pane, a couple of strips of wood for the decorative grille, some glue and 4 25mm (1") angle brackets. Step 1. Cut a grove 12mm (1/2") deep and 3mm (1/8") wide up the middle of a piece of 50x50 x 1600 long (2x2 x 64" long) lumber. This can be done by making a cut with a circular saw or a bench saw. If the groove is not wide enough to accommodate the acrylic sheet (plastic glass), then a second cut will be needed to widen the grove. Next cut the 4 sash members to length: 2 pieces at approximately 490mm (19 5/8") and 2 pieces at approximately 390mm (15 5/8"). Angle each cut at 45. NOTE: The length of the above sash members are only approximate. If the window frame is already made (see previous page), then that will determine the required overall size of the sash. Ensure there is a gap of at least 5mm (3/16") between the sash and frame all the way around.

28 Step 2. Cut the acrylic sheet to size. The size will be 20mm (3/4") bigger than the inside measurement of the sash frame. Next glue and screw the sash members together ensuring the acrylic sheet is fitted into all the grooves. Cut and glue strips of 10mm x 10mm (3/8"x 3/8") wood to the acrylic sheet (plastic glass) making a cross. This is solely decorative and the size of the wood can vary depending on personal preference. Use an exterior type glue that will adhere to both wood and plastic. NOTE: For added strength fix 25mm (1") angle brackets to the external corners of the sash frame. When doing so, make sure the window will still be able to open freely without the angle bracket rubbing against the window frame. The angle bracket may need to be checked partially into the sash. NOTE: For extra weather proofing add some free flowing sealant or mastic to the grooves before fitting the acrylic sheet. Step 1. Assemble Lay the window frame on a flat surface and then sit the window sash into the window frame rebate. Make sure that the gap between the sash and window frame is even all the way around. Screw two hinges to the top rail of the sash and the head of the window frame, one each end. Use either butt hinges or T-hinges. With the window still laying on a flat surface fix 70mm x 25mm (1x3) trim to the perimeter of the window frame.

29 Step 2. Install Place the completed window into the window hole (rough opening) in the wall. Ensure that the window is level and plumb and then fix it in place by nailing through the trim into the wall. From inside the room, nail the window frame side jambs to the wall rough opening frame. The rough opening will be (or should be) slightly bigger than the window frame, so packing pieces will need to be placed between the jamb and the wall frame where nailing occurs.

30 Step 3. Inside finishing Usually the window frame is of an exact width so that the inside of the window frame will be flush with the inside of the wall, allowing for a molding, architrave or casing to go neatly around the frame. However... in this case the window frame is wider than the wall and therefore projects in to the room. Finish by fixing a 20mm x 20mm (3/4"x 3/4") square bead (piece of wood) around the perimeter of the window frame to the wall. Fit hardware of choice. In this case a quadrant stay has been fitted which allows the window to be opened and locked at various positions.

31 Instructions - Gable and Soffit The soffit is the material that covers the underside of an overhang on a roof. The soffit board is already in place under the eaves (the horizontal overhang along the side of the structure, see Instructions - The roof frame page 14) so there is only the soffit under the gable overhang to put up. This is simply a matter of nailing a length of soffit board, which in this case is 240mm (9 1/4") wide cement fibreboard, to the underside of the gable overhang. There will be four lengths altogether: two at the front of the structure with one on each plane, and the same at the back of the structure. Cut the length of the boards so that they fit neatly against the inside of the fascia board at the lower end and fit to the top of the rake at the other end. By now the exterior is all but finished. There is just the gable (the triangular portion of the front and rear walls directly under the sloping roof) to cover. Measure and cut a piece of 12mm (1/2") plywood in a triangular shape fitting under the gable soffit so that the bottom is in line with the bottom of the fascia board each side.

32 Fix 50x25 (1x2) battens hard against the top of the plywood and the soffit board, following the rake of the roof and also add a couple of vertical battens (as in the picture above) solely for decorative purposes. Weatherproofing doors and windows It is common for galvanized sheet metal or plastic Z-shaped strip (flashing) to be attached to the outside of the top horizontal trim on doors and windows, and tucked under the siding to prevent water getting in. However... In this case that is not necessary as the gable frame is off-set from the wall frame below it and the plywood siding on the gable covers the top horizontal door and window trim. Instructions - Inside Finishing The interior walls can be covered with the plywood sheet at any time once the roof is finished, building wrap (cover underlay) envelops the structure and the door and windows are installed. Cover the interior walls with 7mm (11/32") or thicker plywood. Nail to the studs. Cut out for the door and windows where necessary and also cut the plywood

33 sheets so that any join will be over a stud. A standard 1200mm (48") wide plywood sheet will reach from the middle of the bottom plate to the middle of the top plate. Finish with trim around the windows and door, around the top of the walls and around the bottom of the walls (baseboard, skirting). Use 20mm x 20mm (3/4"x 3/4") wood around the windows and 50x25 (1x2) wood for the rest. That's it! A bit of paint, a few curtains, a piece of furniture and the kids have their own private retreat. Final note. Wind: A playhouse is usually tucked away in a sheltered part of the garden without any real concern about the wind, and because the playhouse is a heavy and solid structure without much height, it is highly unlikely that it is going to blow away under normal conditions. However... If the playhouse is situated in a windy area and there are concerns, then additional securing measures should be taken. The playhouse will need to be fastened against uplift, from the footings to the roof. 1.) Concrete a pile or post into the ground under each corner and fasten to the bottom plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener. (This doesn't apply to concrete floors). 2.) At each corner fasten the bottom plate to the stud with a metal strap or similar type of fastener. 3.) At each corner fasten the stud to the top plate with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.

34 4.) At each corner fasten the top plate to the rafter with a metal strap or similar type of fastener.