Make Your Own Molds copyright *2006 by Libby Bryant

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1 Make Your Own Molds copyright *2006 by Libby Bryant Please note: Safety is YOUR responsibility, NOT mine! Please read all use labels, safety instructions, and MSDS completely on products YOU purchase and use! Here I wish to discuss how I make my own rubber molds for wax and soaps. There are no exact instructions as you will need to follow directions for what ever products you purchase for making your molds. I merely wish to share items and techniques I use for my molds. And PLEASE do not make a mold from anything that is not your own creation or a real food item! The Model: First you will need an item(s) as your model to make a mold from. I love making bakery style candles so I needed molds for fruits and nuts. I purchased real whole strawberries, apples, raisins, nuts and various other items to make my molds. Don't purchase fresh fruits until you're ready to start making your mold(s). You want them to be as fresh as possible. I also like making my own decorative soaps, tags, and other special items so to do that I use modeling clay or salt dough. The clay is better for smaller detailed pieces, but you can also use various techniques with the salt dough. I'll try to discuss that later or maybe another tut altogether? Here are some pics of models I've made with salt dough, clay, and wax. After these models dry completely they're ready for glueing in trays or containers for making the molds. Wax pies with clay edge trims, and mini clay pie slices. These are all clay. Fingers and a soap model.

2 Clay chunky mini pie models. Salt dough models for tarts.

3 Partially finished salt dough model for soap bar. The mold mix will pick up every little fine detail from the models. Molding Mix: I like using the RTV Urethane rubber molding mix of 30 shore hardness. It's a 2 part mix, Part A and Part B, and you mix equal amounts. It's perfect for all my pieces, is flexible, very durable and long lasting, and cheapest I've found! There are also very soft silicone rubber mixes you can use. Do research and see what type of mold mix you prefer to use. My molding mix comes with mixing containers and stirring sticks, so be sure you get those things too. Other Supplies Needed: Besides your molding mix and model, you'll need some

4 glass trays, metal pans, and/or plastic containers depending on what you're making a mold for. If making small fruit slices you can use a glass or plastic tray measuring about 5" wide by 8" long by 2" deep, (like Tupperware) or a metal pan in that size. You want to make sure it's deep enough to cover the pieces being molded. For taller items such as votives or sugar cones, you will need a container slightly larger than the item being molded. I like using the deli containers for this as they come in different sizes and you can clean/reuse them. But you'll need to check your molding mix to see what type of containers are recommended. You'll also need some wax paper for your work area/surface, some Tacky glue or similar, and some gloves. Preparation: Now that you have your molding mix, model(s), and other things needed you'll need to prepare your models in the trays or containers. Size the model item(s) in the tray or container you're using to make sure it fits and you get as many pieces as possible. (If not sure about the placement of the models in your tray or container, browse the net and look at some molds to see about the spacing needed.) I made some whole strawberry pieces in a glass tray. So I put the strawberries in the bottom of the tray and spaced them so they weren't too close to each other. Then I made sure they weren't too tall for the tray. The mold mix has to cover them completely and be at least 1/2" above the piece(s). I cut off the tops and glued them upside down in the trays so that the bottom of the strawberries were sticking up. Let the glue dry which takes about 24 hours. What ever you're using as the model(s), you'll need to glue them in the container and allow the glue to dry. If making a sugar cone mold in a container you'll want to glue it's bottom in the container. Pay attention to how you're gluing your model in the containers. You mostly want the larger end glued, otherwise you may have to split your mold down the side to get it out. Some molds need that anyway. Once your pieces are glued and dried you'll need to use a mold release so the new rubber or silicone mold will come out of the tray/container. I use cooking spray for most items except for salt dough models. I use the clear acrylic spray paint making sure I've sprayed every part of the salt dough model. Salt dough models are porous and the molding mix will stick to them so they must have an acrylic spray to seal them. I usually make several various molds at a time but this depends on how much molding mix you've purchased. I get it by the gallon kit and that makes 6-8 molds depending on my models. Here are some salt dough mini cinnabuns I've glued in my glass tray waiting to be sprayed with clear acrylic.

5 Making The Mold: Now that my models are glued and dried I use wax paper to cover my work area and slip on a pair of gloves. I slowly stir equal parts of Part A and Part B of my mold mix in my measuring containers provided in my kit. For a tray in the size mentioned above, using walnuts as my model, I usually mix 12 ounces for that mold. So that's 6 ounces of Part A and 6 ounces of Part B mold mix. If more is needed pour what you have mixed then mix more using only what you'll need. With my mix I have 30 minutes of working time to pour my mix so that gives me time for an additional pour if needed. Follow the instructions for what ever type of mold mix you're using. When stirring the mold mix, go slowly but mix thoroughly. Avoid mixing quick as this causes air bubbles in your molds. I let my mold set up for 24 hours. It doesn't take that long but that's just a guideline I've made myself. The time the mold mix sets up will depend on what type mix you're using, again, read the labels. Once the mold is set and ready to take out of tray or container, I use an old metal butter knife to loosen the edges. Then starting at one end or corner I slowly peel the mold out of the tray. This is pretty tough so you will need to use a little force to get it out. If I've used a deli container I make a slit in the side and tare it away from the mold. Sometimes the glued piece will come unglued as you're removing the mold and still be in the mold so just pop it out. Here's a walnut and mini crow mold I've made using real walnuts and wax dipped salt dough crows.

6 I like to let my new mold set for another 24 hours then wash before using. To care and store my new mold I hand wash using a mild dish detergent, rinse well and allow to air dry. I then keep them stored in a labeled zip lock freezer bag on a flat surface. If stacking molds on a shelf or in a cabinet you can use cardboard in-between them to keep them flat. I like to store mine in a cabinet. I could use my mold right after it's made but I like to let mine set in the open for 24 hrs before cleaning. Follow the instructions for your type of mold mix for the care, cleaning and use. Now I can use wax or soap in my new mold. This type of rubber mold is not to be used for food molds like making candy. If you wish to make molds for food make sure it's a food safe mold mix. I can also use my mold for making other pieces such as plaster. A mold release is needed for making those type pieces in the rubber mold, where none is used/needed with wax or soap. Again, read your mold mix labels to see what's recommended. I hope this has been a guideline of help to anyone needing to make their own molds. After making your first couple molds you'll find that it's really fun and addictive!