Congratulations on your purchase of a Steve s LEDs Typhon LED Controller!

Transcription

1 Congratulations on your purchase of a Steve s LEDs Typhon LED Controller! Preface This item assumes you have a basic knowledge of electronics, such as never touching a live electrical circuit under any circumstances whatsoever, understanding polarity, wiring in series and parallel, electrical safety and handling, and the use of basic handheld tools. Consider researching the internet or asking a friend if you are unfamiliar with these terms. Please read all of the installation related documents such as the Terms and Conditions, Driver Installation guide, and the LED kit installation guide before proceeding with building your kit and installing your controller. You are ultimately responsible for proper and safe installation. By proceeding with the installation, you are accepting full responsibility of the safe and proper installation of your LED retrofit system. Remember that your biggest resources are your friends that are familiar with electronic device installation. Steve s LEDs is available for support during normal business hours. Disclaimer Notice Please read the entire manual before using the Typhon LED Controller. By using the Typhon LED Controller, you agree that Steve s LEDs will not be held responsible for any injury and damage as a result of using the Typhon LED Controller. Although the information and recommendations in this manual are presented in good faith and believed to be correct, Steve s LEDs makes no representations or warranties as to the completeness or accuracy of the information. Information is supplied upon the condition that the persons receiving it will make their own determination as to its suitability for their purposes prior to use. In no event will Steve s LEDs be responsible for damages of any nature whatsoever resulting from the use of or reliance upon information from this manual or the products to which the information refers. Steve s LEDs does not warrant the accuracy or timeliness of the materials in this manual and has no liability for any errors or omissions in the materials. WARNING: This product contains lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause neurological damage, cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Page 1 of 19

2 LEAD IS GOOD!!! We use leaded solder because it requires a relatively low temperature to melt. The lower the temperature we can keep our electronics and LEDs, the longer they last. We have heard of many people getting very poor lifespan out of LEDs that have been soldered with lead-free solder (almost double the melting temperature of lead solder). Once installed, you will not be handling your retrofit kit regularly, so it is not a health risk for you to handle during day-to-day usage. Frankly, if I see an LED related product that is soldered with lead free solder, I just don t buy it because chances are that it will have reduced lifespan. We highly recommend that you install your Typhon in an electrically insulating enclosure, such as our high quality laser cut Typhon Enclosure. This protects your Typhon and allows it to be mounted virtually anywhere, very professional looking! TYPHON -Use The Typhon LED controller is an open sourced controller, and it provides 4 independently accessible and controllable output channels. It allows for control of both 5V PWM (such as all Steve s LEDs Digital Drivers) and 10V PWM based LED drivers. You can control each of the 4 channels by designating each channels Start and End lighting times, duration of sunrise/sunrise (called Fade ), and you can set the maximum light intensity level. -Compatibility Steve s LEDs Digital Drivers The Single, The Double, The Triple, The Quad Meanwell LED Drivers ELN-30-XXP, ELN-60-XXP (such as ELN-60-48P) HLN-40H-XXB, HLN-60H-XXB, HLN-80H-XXB, LDD-XXXH LuxDrive 3021 BuckPuck (Requires Inverted PWM setting set to YES ) 3021-D-E-XXXXmA CONNECTIONS PWM output The top row is negative, and the bottom row is positive. Each channel connectors are vertical, channel 1 positive is underneath the channel 2 negative. See Figure 1 for PWM Outputs. See Figure 2 for power input. Note: For Steve s LEDs Digital Drivers, you will be able to wire multiple drivers to each Typhon Channel. The easiest way to accomplish this is to wire all of the PWM Negative wires together, and connect to a single negative wire going to the Comm (DC Ground) port on the main power supply. You can then connect multiple wires to the single Typhon positive wire, and wire those to Digital Driver port #2. (Remember to remove Steve s LEDs Digital Driver jumper wire that connects driver port #2 to port #4. Leave driver port #4 empty) Page 2 of 19

3 FTDI Port for uploading new programs DC 12V Input 5V PWM Outputs 10V PWM Outputs Menu Navigation Buttons Page 3 of 19

4 FIGURE 1. - Negative - Positive V PWM 5V PWM Figure 2. LCD Contrast 12V DC input (use included wall plug) Page 4 of 19

5 Programming Programming the Typhon is simple, using only the 4 buttons. Below is a tree diagram, showing how to navigate the software options and cycle through the menu. The buttons are click-in press buttons, they are not directional, a press in any direction will only count as a single press. -Buttons o M = Menu Moves through the available settings (Setting time, setting light duration, etc) o S = Select Selects the option you want to modify o + Changes the value or setting up o - Changes the value or setting - Timer (Use this for the automatic timer) Setting Mode > - All Channels ON (manually turn lights on 100%) - All Channels OFF (manually turn lights of to 0%) - Custom [intensity] (set all channels to a certain intensity) LED1 Start > Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only) LED1 End > Set End (lights off) time (24H format only) LED1 Fade > Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset LED1 Min >Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0) LED 1 Max > Set Max Level (maximum light intensity) LED2 Start > Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only) LED2 End > Set End (lights off) time (24H format only) LED2 Fade > Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset LED2 Min >Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0) LED2 Max > Set Max Level (maximum light intensity) Home > LED3 Start > Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only) LED3 End > Set End (lights off) time (24H format only) LED3 Fade > Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset LED3 Min >Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0) LED3 Max > Set Max Level (maximum light intensity) LED4 Start > Set Start (lights on) time (24H format only) LED4 End > Set End (lights off) time (24H format only) LED4 Fade > Set Fade Duration in minutes for both sunrise and sunset LED3 Min >Set Minimum light intensity during night-time (Usually 0) LED4 Max > Set Max Level (maximum light intensity) Page 5 of 19 Set Time : Hours Set Time: Minutes PWM Inverted > > Set the current hour (24H format only) > Set the current minute > Yes > No (Select No if using Steve s LEDs Digital Drivers)

6 Home Screen The home screen displays current time on the top, and each of the 4 channels respective channel s current intensity setting in percentage of intensity. A setting of 0 indicates the lights are off. A setting of 100 indicates the lights are on 100%. Any setting between 0% and 100% (ex. 78%) indicates that the lights are dimmed to that particular level. Please note: The percentage dimmed is not a percentage of total light output, it is a percentage of electrical current going to the LEDs. Troubleshooting 1) The LCD does not turn blue when plugged in. - Ensure the power supply is plugged into the wall securely, or try a different outlet. - Twist the input power jack, it should spin freely Steve s LEDs Digital Driver Wiring The Typhon can be wired several ways. You can have each channel control a driver individually, or have each channel control a group of drivers (ideal for larger tanks). The bridge wire between Steve s LEDs V6 driver pins #2 and #4 must be completely removed when using a Typhon, See Figure 3.A and Figure 3.B. Steve s LEDs V7 Drivers do not have a jumper wire, but need to have both DIP switches turned OFF, See Figure 3.C and Figure 3.D. Not doing so could damage the Typhon. We recommend a driver removal tool for quick bridge removal. See Figure 3.A for improper bridge removal and Figure 3.B for proper bridge wire removal. Typhon Extension Cable For the fastest installation of your Typhon, we highly recommend the Typhon Extension Cable. The solder has already been completed, and the cable is fully tested, saving you from the headache of soldering your own extensions. For Steve s LEDs Digital Drivers, simply plug the extension cable into your Typhon as in the photo shown below. Page 6 of 19

7 Should You Leave The Dimmer Pots Intact? We highly recommend that you leave the dimmer pots/knobs plugged in while using an aquarium controller. You can replace the dimmer with a solid jumper wire, however, remember that every time you introduce a new coral to your aquarium, you will need to slowly acclimate it every 3 days over the course of 6 weeks to ensure you don t bleach it. It is easier to significantly easier to increase the brightness every 3 days using the dimmer pot, than to reprogram your aquarium controller every 3 days. PWM will allow dimming throughout the entire range that you set using the dimmer pots. Addendum Reference: - See Figure 3.A and Figure 3.B - Improper and proper proper bridge wire removal. - See Figure 4 Single driver, controlled by Typhon Channel 1. - See Figure 5 2x drivers (a Single and a Triple) individually, each controlled by channels 1 & 2 respectively - See Figure 6 2x drivers as a group, controlled by Typhon Channel 1. - See Figure 7 Biocube 14 and NanoCube 12 - See Figure 8 Biocube 29 V3.0 and Red Sea Max 130D V3.0 -See Figure 8.A Biocube 29 V4.0 and Red Sea Max 130D V4.0 - See Figure 9 Red Sea Max 250 V3.0 - See Figure 9 Red Sea Max 250 V4.0 The bottom half of this page was intentionally left blank. Page 7 of 19

8 Figure 3.A Bridge wire intact, NOT READY for Typhon! Figure 3.B Bridge removed, READY for Typhon! Page 8 of 19

9 Figure 3.C - DIP SWITCH NOT READY FOR TYPHON when the white lever is closest to the text ON CTS, switch is ON. Switches are on, NOT READY for Typhon! Figure 3.D DIP SWITCH IS READY FOR TYPHON when the white lever is furthest from ON CTS, switch is OFF. Switches OFF, READY for Typhon! Please note: Only one PWM- is required per main power supply Page 9 of 19

10 Figure 4. To main 24V power supply Figure 5. To main 24V power supply Figure 6. Page 10 of 19

11 To main 24V power supply The bottom half of this page was intentionally left blank Page 11 of 19

12 Figure 7 Biocube 14 and Nanocube 12 If you are using the Extension, the green wires are not used. These wires go to LED arrays Main LED Heatsink Typhon fan Driver #1 Wiring= Port #1 Black Port #3 Red Driver #2 Wiring= Port #1 Black Port #3 Red Page 12 of 19

13 Figure 8 Biocube 29 V3.0 and Red Sea Max 130D V3.0 If you are using the Extension, the green wires are not used. Main LED Heatsink Typhon fan Driver #1 Wiring= Port #1 Black Port #3 - Red Driver #2 Wiring= Port #1 Black Port #3 - Red Page 13 of 19

14 Figure 8.A (Systems purchased after 4/1/2014) Biocube 29 V4.0, Biocube 14 V4.0, NanoCube 12 V4.0, Nanocube 28 V4.0 and Red Sea Max 130D V4.0 If you are using the Extension, the green wires are not used. Typhon Driver Wiring= G Black DIM1 Red DIM2 - Yellow Page 14 of 19

15 Figure 9 - Red Sea Max 250 V3.0If you are using the Extension, the green wires are not used. Typhon fan Driver #1 Wiring= Port #1 Black Port #3 - Red Driver #2 Wiring= Port #1 Black Port #3 - Red These are to channels 3&4, and will be wired to the drivers on the other identically wired heatsink on driver ports #2, identical to above Figure 9. If you ordered 95% Upgrade, you will use a white extension cable to connect power supply to LED drivers. Page 15 of 19

16 Figure 10 - Red Sea Max 250 V4.0 Typhon Driver Wiring= G Black DIM1 Red DIM2 - Yellow These are to channels 3&4, and will be wired to the drivers on the other identically wired heatsink on driver ports DIM1 and DIM2, identical to above Figure 10. Steps for installing the Typhon Extension Cable Page 16 of 19

17 Figure 11. Red Sea Max S-500 and Red Sea Max S-650 Duplicate this for the second heatsinks it has IDENTICAL wiring. Heatsink #1 -Driver #1 G Black DIM Red -Driver #2 G Green DIM Yellow Heatsink #2 -Driver #1 G Black DIM Red -Driver #2 G Green DIM Yellow NOTE Only Typhon Controller related wiring is shown, all other wiring is hidden for clarity. Page 17 of 19

18 This entire process should take about 1 minute, it is not complex. If you are finding that it is taking you longer to install the Typhon, you could be doing something wrong. Please feel free to us at TechSupport@StevesLEDs.com if you need any assistance at any time. Page 18 of 19 1) Verify that the LED system is working properly without using the Typhon. Check to make sure dimmer knobs function. 2) Unplug power to the system 3) Use only solid core wire (single strand) for plugging into the LED driver, or, use multi-strand wire that has been properly tinned/soldered into a single strand. 4) Remove the jumper bridge wire on all drivers, see page 8 of this document, all Steve s Digital Dimming drivers that are version 6.0 a. On Steve s Digital Dimming drivers that are 7.0 or higher, ensure the small brown DIP switches are both turned OFF. See page 9 of this document to verify 5) Leave dimmer knob intact and plugged in, do not unplug it, or anything else. If you wish to not use the dimmer knob, turn it all the way up and leave it inside the hood, securing it with zipties, twist ties, Velcro, tape, hot glue, etc. It may be replaced with a wire bridge between the two holes where the dimmer knob was plugged in. 6) Only 1 red OR yellow wire goes to each DIM port on the LED driver. It does not matter if you use red or yellow, so long as you use only one. 7) You need to ground the Typhon to the main power supply using 1 of the black wires. You may also need to ensure all V- and COM ports on the drivers are tied/connected together to ensure the system has a common ground. 8) Green wires are not used in LED systems that have 1 or 2 LED drivers total. Green wires are only used in LED systems with 3 or more LED drivers and provide the same function as the black wire, it is PWM negative-. 9) Only 1 black wire will be used per LED driver, no more, no less. 10) NEVER INSERT MORE THAN 1 WIRE INTO A SINGLE DRIVER PORT THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD. 11) If any wires coming off of the Typhon are not used, individually tape them off. If you allow the unused wires to touch, they will create a short circuit and may permanently damage the Typhon Controller. 12) Turn system on, and program the Typhon accordingly

19 Figure 12. For splicing a wire using a crimp type telephone splice (shown green in photo) to wire multiple drivers into a single common ground. This same technique can be used to splice multiple drivers into a single dimming channel to allow one channel to control multiple LED drivers. To Other LED Drivers This is the existing black wire, goes to LED extension Page 19 of 19