Bristol Photographic Society Introduction to Digital Imaging
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1 Bristol Photographic Society Introduction to Digital Imaging Part 16 HDR an Introduction HDR stands for High Dynamic Range and is a method for capturing a scene that has a light range (light to dark) that is greater than the camera s sensor can handle with a single exposure. Or, it can be used to add extra information into shadows and highlights when the overall light range is significantly less than the camera s sensor can handle. With HDR you take 3, or more, exposures of the same scene (you must use a tripod!) over a range of exposures and the software takes the best bits from each exposure to build up the final image. Note - All exposures must be RAW or.tiff files (not.jpg) for HDR to work! Here is a very contrasty scene. There is no chance that the camera s sensor could capture the very bright highlights at the same time as showing detail in the shadows. The camera s metering has provided a good compromise but still, looking at the Histogram, you can see both blown out highlights and a lot of blocked up shadows. Using exposure bracketing the camera has been forced to under-expose the scene by 2 stops. The highlights are now much better controlled but there is even less shadow detail. Here the bracketing has over-exposed the scene by 2 stops to bring out shadow detail. However, the highlights are now completely ruined. HDR software takes shadow detail from the over-exposed image, the highlights from the under-exposed image and merges them with the mid-tones of the correctly exposed image to produce this image. The process has enabled the scene to be captured even although it has a light range far greater than the camera s camera can handle. NMcCoubrey Page 1 2/19/2009
2 16.1 Using Photoshop s in-built HDR software. Go File / Automate / Merge to HDR and the following dialogue box will appear. Use the Browse button to navigate and select the images you want to combine using HDR. Then press OK to start the process. The process may take several minutes, depending upon the speed of your computer and the number of images you are trying to combine. Eventually the following window will appear. This is the Preview screen and it will probably not look very good. However you can adjust the Set White Point Preview to get a better view without affecting the actually file. Leave the Response Curve set to Automatic. Click OK and again your computer will plod away for a bit before the final HDR image appears. If the image still looks burnt out or too dark you can adjust the slider indicated by the red arrow shown below. Again this does not affect the file. It only affects the view of the file. This is still a 32bit image and so very few Photoshop tools will operate. Most will be greyed out. Go Image / Mode / 16 bits/channel (or 8bits/channel) to enable more Photoshop tools to become available. This dialogue box will appear. This next step is called Mapping and the dialogue box has a choice of 4 different methods for Mapping which you can select from the drop-down menu. Exposure & Gamma allows you to adjust the Exposure & Gamma to achieve the best image. My preference is to start by raising the Exposure and lowering the Gamma as this increases the mid range contrast whereas lowering the Exposure and increasing the Gamma lowers the mid range contrast resulting in a grey tome image. This tutorial will not cover using or importing Toning Curve Histograms. NMcCoubrey Page 2 2/19/2009
3 Next there is Highlight Compression which does just what it says and has no adjustment options. The Equalize Histogram again has no options and, in my view, usually results in overly hot images. Finally, Local Adaptation. Like the Unsharp Mask this modifies localized contrast by adjusting the brightness of individual pixels depending upon the pixels surrounding them. You can set the Radius (the distance away from the original pixel that will be checked for brightness) and the Threshold (the minimum brightness difference between pixels that will trigger a change to the original pixel). Personally, I find keeping the Radius quite high (>40) and the Threshold >1.5 give the best results BUT they still won t look good until you have further modified them in Photoshop. Click OK and you now have an HDR d image that can be further processed in Photoshop. Now using a Curves adjustment layer to increase mid-range contrast. Of the 4 options I find the above process using Local Adaptation, followed by Curves gives the best results. See below. The bulbs are very bright but no longer dominate the scene and the shadow detail is much clearer. Finally, add some Contrast with CURVES to achieve a reasonable result. So Photoshop s in-built HDR tool does the job however, there are some situations where it struggles. Here are 2 examples: In the left hand image the moving water has caused ugly, purple, hard-edged halos. In the right hand image the complexity of the fronds has caused some jpeg-like artifacts. Unlike the water halos these frond artifacts have not been caused by movement! I cannot either fix or explain these problems. NMcCoubrey Page 3 2/19/2009
4 16.2 Photomatix proprietary HDR software Photomatix software is specifically designed to manage HDR images. It is easy to use (despite its many, many options and controls) and does not appear to be fooled by situations like those shown above. The only problem with Photomatix is that it is very easy and very tempting to produce real OTT results! Initial set up Go View / Default Options Set these 2 tabs as you see here and leave the rest at their default settings. To start Photomatix go HDR / Generate and the Browse dialogue box appears. Use this to select your source images and click OK. An Options dialogue box will appear. This enables you to Align the source images This is useful if there have been any slight movements of the tripod between exposures. However, it will seriously slow down your computer! Attempt to remove Ghosting artifacts A very useful tool when there is a slight wind or moving water, for example. It can t work miracles but it still works well. You can also select the White Balance and the Working space. Click OK to proceed. Photomatix will now produce a 32bit HDR image. As with Photoshop HDR this image will not display correctly (blown highlights) because its working space is larger than the Monitor s working space. However, there is a small window called the HDR Viewer shown which magnifies and corrects the part of the image indicated by the mouse so you can see the converted detail ahead of full conversion. NMcCoubrey Page 4 2/19/2009
5 Now go HDR / Tone Mapping to bring up the Mapping window as shown here. Method? This buttons choose whether you will Enhance Detail (this is used most) or Compress Tones. For this image, which does not have a massive tonal range I want to Enhance the Details instead. Click the Details Enhancer button if it is not already selected. Typical settings? Strength I typically use 100% here because I like the strange, surreal effects it gives. For more realism you should reduce this value. Colour Saturation your choice! Light Smoothing There is no clear choice here. It is very much dependent upon the image. Try several different settings to see which gives the most acceptable results. The wrong choice will result in nasty light halos! Luminosity Start with this at 0 Tone o White Point Adjust to minimize highlight clipping o Black Point Adjust to set the shadow clipping o Gamma adjust for the best looking contrast. Typically, I use values between 1 and 1.5. Adjust the Luminosity if required to recover brightness Colour adjust Temperature, Highlight & Shadow Saturation as required. Micro Adjusts the local contrast and how smooth the transitions between contrast areas are. Again, personal choice. Play with the sliders. Typically, I use 0 Microcontrast and 5 for Smoothing. S/H I typically leave all these tabs set to 0. Try them and see the effects for yourselves. When you are happy with the results decide whether you want to save the output as an 8bit or a 16bit image and press OK. Saving as an 8 bit image allows more Photoshop tools to work with the resulting file whereas 16bit gives higher quality. Finally go File / Save as and save your image as a.tif file. It is now ready to be edited in Photoshop. NMcCoubrey Page 5 2/19/2009
6 The Tone Compressor Option Going back to the Tunnel image, with its massive light range, used to demonstrate Photoshop s HDR converter, I will use it here to show the Photomatix Tone Compressor. Here is the original. Below is the Tone Mapping screen set to Tone Compressor. I have adjusted the Brightness, Tonal Range & Contrast settings to give the best balance, in my opinion. There is now far more shadow detail and look how much better the light bulbs now appear. For me this is a far more pleasing rendition than I achieved using the Photoshop HDR on the same image. NMcCoubrey Page 6 2/19/2009
7 16.4 Creating pseudo-hdr images from a single negative Photomatix can take a standard, 16bit, single RAW file and create a pseudo-hdr, 32bit image from it. This image can then be Tone-mapped to produce very similar effects to having 3 or more source images. This is particularly useful when, due to excessive movement in the scene or the lack of a tripod, you only have a single image to use. Note You cannot use the route HDR / Generate to open a single image. If you do you will be warned that the software needs multiple images to work! However, if you go File / Open and open just the single image you need then the, so called, Decoding & Demosaicing will open the single file to allow tone mapping. Here is the image taken straight out of the RAW Converter. Below is tone-mapped version of a pseudo-hdr image. Note the better sky detail (including the, now very obvious, dirt on the camera sensor!) and the greater detail in the water and the darker rocks. The left hand table shows the settings that were used. NMcCoubrey Page 7 2/19/2009
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