3 Exposure Techniques for Beginners By Gary Tindale
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1 3 Exposure Techniques for Beginners By Gary Tindale Introduction You are the proud owner of a DSLR, and it s full of features that can be disconcerting, several of which are geared towards controlling exposure. Yes, you could play it safe and use auto, hoping the clever electronics in the camera will do the job and maybe do a bit of extra tweaking in post-production, but if you do that you are not making the most of your camera and whilst the internal exposure systems of modern DSLR s are very clever, they are not foolproof. In this tutorial I will go through three ways to control/override exposure, some of which would be considered advanced techniques by some, techniques that a beginner doesn t really need to know when starting out. However, I m not of that opinion and believe that adding these tools to your photographic arsenal early on in your photography days can really give you an advantage and will improve your ability to capture the image you want. These techniques and the associated discussion will also help you understand how your camera meters the image it sees and why it sometimes gets it wrong.
2 Your DSLR camera is built with the ability to meter the image in the viewfinder in several ways: - 1. Evaluative. Where the electronics looks at key areas of the image to get an overall view of the varying exposures from which it calculates what it considers best. 2. Centre Weighted. A method similar to evaluative, but with the exposure chosen by the camera tending towards the exposure of the subject in the middle of the image. 3. Spot Metering. Using only a small reference area around the centre of the image to choose the exposure. Using any of these methods, the camera can be very clever and will more often than not give you an accurate exposure and an excellent result. Unfortunately, the camera can be fooled by certain conditions and this is where the Exposure Lock function can really help The first trick is to understand when the cameras exposure meter may be fooled and the second is to know what to do about it! 01 - Exposure Lock One of the simplest ways to override the exposure setting chosen by the camera is to make use of the Exposure Lock button. The Exposure Lock button, which may be labelled AE-L or AF-L depending on the make and model of your camera, is generally on the back of the camera body, within easy reach of your right thumb. But when will you use it?
3 Let s say you are shooting indoors and there s a window in the frame and it s a bright day outside, so there is a lot of light coming through the window. With the high volume of light from the window, the camera would most likely expose for the window and under-expose the rest of the shot where the main subject is. You could move your subject away from the window, but that may not be what you want, you may want the natural light on your subject. It may not even be possible because your subject is fixed in place next to the window. Either way, you need to find a way to correct the exposure. This is where Exposure Lock can help. Point the camera away from the window, so that the window is out of the frame. Now half-press the shutter release to activate the light meter you can release it as soon as the meter has switched on. Next, while the camera is still metering press and hold the AE-L / AF-L button to lock the exposure for your current view. Reframe your shot whilst still keeping the AE-L / AF-L pressed and once reframed, take the picture. Once the picture has been taken you can release the AE-L / AF-L button. Warning: - 1. In many cases, as a default action, pressing the exposure lock button will also lock your focus, so you may need to make some changes to your cameras settings to prevent this (see below). The AE-L / AF-L button is probably the simplest and quickest way for you to override the camera s natural exposure reading and is thus very useful AE-L / AF-L button options Often, by default, the AE-L / AF-L button locks both the exposure and the focus, but this may not be what you want, especially if when you move the frame to meter the key area items are at a different distance. You want the focus to be correct for the final shot, not the area you used to correct the exposure setting. Fortunately, this is one problem that is usually easy to overcome and is fixed by making a change in your cameras Custom Functions menu. On a typical DSLR there are usually three options for the AE-L / AE-F button setting. 1. Default, where the button locks both the exposure and the focus. 2. Exposure Lock only. 3. Focus Lock only. Just choose the option you find most useful.
4 02 - EV Compensation As I said in the introduction, your DSLR has a very complex and clever metering system that works extremely well in most cases, but it does have one weakness. No matter how complex the system, it does not really interpret what you are looking at and whether it happens to be predominantly light or dark, it just assumes there is a balance and it calculates its exposure based on that. In assuming an average gamut of colours and tones, light and dark, highlights and shadows, the camera s metering system can be easily fooled if one light, or dark tone dominates the image. So if you want to take a picture in the snow and for the snow to come out white, or take a picture of a black cat in a coal cellar and for the cat to come out black you will need to take control of the cameras exposure meter and tell it to adjust what it sets. This is Exposure Compensation If a scene is predominantly white, say a snow scene, your cameras exposure meter will have a tendency to under expose the image. This may at first seem a bit counter intuitive, because logic would say that the scene is very bright, so I need to reduce the exposure right? Wrong! Because the scene is so bright, the cameras exposure meter is fooled and actually cuts down the light it lets through, trying to make it an average (grey), therefore under exposing the shot. The camera has been fooled into compensating for something it shouldn t have, so you need to compensate for the error by telling the camera to increasing the exposure to where it really should be. The same thing happens in reverse with dark subjects, the camera measures lower than usual light levels, so it increases the exposure to compensate, again trying to get to that average grey. The camera doesn t realize that you are shooting a dark subject, so you have to give it a nudge and tell it to reduce the exposure to keep the black bits black
5 So, now comes the difficult part. How much exposure compensation should you apply? For snow scenes, I would suggest a value of EV +1, it should be sufficient to make most snow scenes have white snow without over exposing and burning out the real highlights. If your camera has 1/3 rd stop EV adjustments, EV +.7 or EV may be better Black subjects can be a bit more awkward, depending on the background and how dark that is as well, but normally between EV -.5 and EV -1 will give you the right results. Of course, using a DSLR, you can always take a shot, review it in the LCD and if necessary adjust the compensation and take another shot. What I would not recommend though is taking a shot at every possible value between the + & - limits that your camera has. Applying EV compensation Applying an exposure compensation value to your shot is fairly straight forward. Press the EV compensation button and while the button is pressed turn the control wheel left for EV- and right for EV+ and the camera will adjust its calculated value accordingly. Depending on your camera, each step in the compensation will be either 1/3 rd or ½ stop increments Notes: - 1. On most DSLR s, the step value for exposure compensation can be switched between 1/3 rd and ½ stop increments in the Custom Functions. 2. Usually on a DSLR there will be a bar in the viewfinder and LCD that shows the exposure compensation value set, with the centre of the bar meaning EV +/- 0 (cameras exposure value unadjusted), to the left shows steps in EV- (under exposure) and to the right, steps in EV+ (Over exposure) Warning: - 1. Once set, EV changes remain active. Remember to reset the Exposure Compensation to EV +/- 0 after taking the shot.
6 03 - Exposure Bracketing Correct Exposure from Camera Light Meter Exposure Bracketing is an emotive subject within photography, purists insist that a good photographer should be able to calculate the correct exposure and adjust correctly based on their knowledge and understanding of photography. Others insist that the photo is what matters and that any tool available to help you get it right is worth using, after all, in the wet film darkroom photographers often over, or under exposed images to create that finite control over the end result. Now don t get me wrong, working out the correct exposure is a great idea and something every photographer should learn to do, the trouble is, in some situations it is not so easy to achieve, especially when you only have your camera s light meter to rely on and as I have already shown, even the most sophisticated camera light meter can be fooled.
7 2 Stop Under Exposure Whichever side of the argument you are on, with the advent of digital cameras and capacious storage for images bracketing is a reliable solution for situations where you are uncertain of the correct exposure, or in those situations where you do not have time to work out the perfect exposure. Exposure Bracketing is itself a simple process on a digital SLR, you set the degree of exposure bracketing (and in some cameras the number of shots), then take three shots (or 5 on some cameras). One at normal exposure, one under exposed by the amount set and the final one over exposed by the same amount. You just have to pick the best shot. You can set the degree of over/under exposure from within the cameras menu system and whilst it is hard to set a benchmark of how much exposure bracketing is needed, I would suggest a minimum of +/- 0.7EV as a general baseline, although high contrast scenes may benefit from +/- 1EV or even +/- 1.3EV.
8 2 Stop Over Exposure With exposure bracketing set, each time you press the shutter release you will take on the sequence of exposure bracketed shots until you have taken the last. Warning: - 1. If you forget that you have exposure bracketing set and only take one or two of the shots in the set before moving on, the next shot will be taken with settings as per the exposure bracketing sequence, so always remember to take all 3 shots before moving on. Alternatively, set the cameras drive mode to continuous and hold the shutter release down. In this instance the camera will take all 3 shots sequentially Really, when exposure bracketing, continuous shooting mode is the preferred solution, the only time you would really use single shot mode is when there are people walking in and out of the shot and you have to wait for the right moment to take each shot.
9 Bracketing and HDR OK, now I am going to really upset the purists. There is one other reason for using Exposure Bracketing and it s a reason many modern photographers always bracket their shots regardless of subject and the cameras exposure meter accuracy. This is so the shots can be used in the field of High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography. This is a post processing technique for photographing subjects with a much higher dynamic (brightness) range than the camera can record in a single shot. For the purpose of HDR photography, the Exposure Bracketing range is often set much wider than you would just to balance a photo, I typically set +/- 2EV. The reason for this is to gather as much brightness and tonal range across the set of images to ensure I have clarity and detail from the darkest shadows to the brightest highlights. When working in HDR, the real tricks occur post processing where the 3 images are combined through software to produce a single image with the correct exposure as the baseline, but the dark areas and blown out highlights replaced with those sections from the bracketed images resulting in a single image with a much broader dynamic range than normal. Previous images combined to HDR
10 Conclusion Every DSLR is a sophisticated piece of engineering in many ways, one part is a very complex internal exposure meter that can be so clever that it almost works out what you are photographing, exposing the scene correctly most of the time, thus allowing you to concentrate on other things so you end up with a great shot. Unfortunately, because of the way exposure meters work, they do have some fundamental limitations and can be fooled by predominately light, or dark subjects which cause the camera into over, or under expose the image resulting in an image where blacks and whites become washed out and grey. You could spend $100 s on a separate light meter and recalculate every dark or light shot to get the best results, or you could use some simple techniques that are available to overcome the limitations of the in camera light meters. Experience will tell you which technique to use and when, but knowing how and what exposure lock, exposure compensation and exposure bracketing are is the first step and will definitely help you on your way to better control your camera and capture the essence of the image you are photographing. Beyond these techniques there is a world of opportunities open to you and you may even step into the world of HDR, but that is a whole different workshop. One last thing. If you really want to learn about your cameras exposure meter and how much YOUR camera s meter may need to be adjusted on occasions, try the following. 1. Set up a table with a white table cloth. 2. Now, take a picture of a white egg on a white plate on that table cloth using natural light. 3. Use your cameras exposure compensation (EV+/-) to adjust the shot until you get the most natural rendition of the picture you have set up. 4. When you can see the egg on the plate on the table cloth properly exposed and coloured you will have a good indication of the maximum exposure compensation your camera needs for most shots.
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