CURRENT AND FUTURE FIBER QUALITY DEMAND: IMPLICATIONS FOR THE COTTON PRODUCTION SECTOR E.F. HEQUET

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1 CURRENT AND FUTURE FIBER QUALITY DEMAND: IMPLICATIONS FOR THE COTTON PRODUCTION SECTOR E.F. HEQUET Plant and Soil Science Department Texas Tech University

2 Main Research Interests Develop new measuring methods for fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Improve the measurement and understanding of cotton fiber properties and contaminants; Study the impacts of these on textile processing performance; Work collaboratively with the cotton breeding and cotton biotechnology community to develop improved properties in cotton fibers;

3 The textile industry relocates: Impact on research objectives

4 Yield, kg/ha Cotton yield evolution (average world) Yield = 9.11 Year - 17,560 R 2 = Crop year Source: ICAC

5 Production, 1000 metric ton Cotton production evolution (world) Production = Year 595,792 R 2 = Crop year Source: ICAC

6 Consumption, kg/capita Market share, % Cotton: Consumption per capita and market share 4,5 4,0 3,5 3,0 2,5 2, Source: ICAC Consumption Market share

7 Market share, % Cotton in % of total fiber available for home use by region Source: FAO-ICAC Year Total World North America Far East

8 Market share, % Source: FAO-ICAC Cotton in % of total fiber available for home use by region Year Total World Brazil

9 1997 Cotton Sales (millions) Domestic Foreign

10 2014/15 Cotton Sales (millions) 75.3% % Domestic Foreign

11 Rotor spun yarn Ring spun yarn Rank Rotor 1 Strength 2 Fineness 3 Length 4 Cleanliness Rank Ring 1 Length 2 Strength 3 Fineness 4

12 Installed Spinning Capacities (short staple) Rotor US 300,000 1,008, , , ,000 China 100, ,000 1,160,000 2,037,000 2,260,000 Ring US 14,330,000 6,261,000 1,602,000 1,043, ,000 China 22,000,000 41,585,000 67,000,000 99,000, ,000,000 Source ITMF

13 2010 Installed Spinning Capacities Spindles Short staple Spindles Long staple OE Rotors Africa 2.3% 1.7% 2.2% America, North 2.3% 6.2% 6.2% America, South 3.9% 4.8% 6.7% Asia & Oceania 86.0% 44.9% 54.9% Europe, East 1.5% 8.8% 18.6% Europe, West 1.3% 28.5% 3.4% Europe, Turkey 2.7% 5.1% 7.9% World 243,573,557 14,663,468 7,566,164 Source ITMF

14 Cumulative Shipments Spindles Short staple Spindles Long staple OE Rotors Africa 0.9% 2.1% 1.0% America, North 0.4% 1.8% 4.4% America, South 0.7% 4.7% 5.0% Asia & Oceania 94.0% 59.5% 76.2% Europe, East 0.1% 5.0% 1.8% Europe, West 0.4% 8.0% 2.0% Europe, Turkey 3.4% 18.9% 9.6% World 99,299,614 1,670,226 3,791,350 Source ITMF

15 2010 Installed Weaving Capacities* Shuttle-less Shuttle Africa America, North America, South Asia & Oceania Europe, East Europe, West Europe, Others World 1.2% 4.3% 5.6% 73.2% 9.4% 3.0% 3.4% 1,168, % 3.2% 4.9% 85.3% 0.6% 0.4% 1.3% 1,484,116 * Looms primarily for weaving yarns spun on the cotton system Source ITMF

16 Weaving Machinery Cumulative Shipments Shuttle-less Shuttle Africa America, North America, South Asia & Oceania Europe, East Europe, West Europe, Others World 0.8% 0.6% 1.1% 91.4% 0.5% 2.9% 2.8% 734, % 0.0% 0.1% 99.2% 0.1% 0.1% 0.2% 67,057 Source ITMF

17 Cotton Fiber Maturity

18 15 DPA fiber cross section Thin primary walls are adhering to each other Picture: R. Goynes

19 Developing fiber bundle cross section showing better developed primary walls Picture: R. Goynes

20 Secondary cell wall development begins As the secondary wall development begins, fibers separate to show individual walls. Picture: R. Goynes

21 Young individual fibers Fiber bundle cross section at stage of development where fibers are individual entities Picture: R. Goynes

22 25 DPA fiber cross sections Picture: R. Goynes

23 36 DPA fiber cross sections Picture: R. Goynes

24 49 DPA fiber cross sections Picture: R. Goynes

25 Mature, field dried fiber cross sections Picture: R. Goynes

26 Typical cotton fiber cross-sections

27 Immature cotton fiber cross-sections

28 Percentage Bivariate distributions: Perimeter and θ Two cottons having the same micronaire (4.3) 3,0 3,0 2,5 2,5 2,0 2,0 1,5 1,5 1,0 1,0 0,5 0,5 1,0 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 0, ,0 1,0 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 0, ,0 Theta Theta

29 Relationship MR-H-Micronaire-Diameter Fineness - millitex Micronaire reading Fiber Diameter Maturity Ratio

30 Fiber maturity is essential to evaluate the fiber propensity to break during mechanical handling. It should be therefore directly related to fiber length distribution.

31 Percentage Within-sample force-to-break distribution vs. length (bale 3175) Force-to-break, cn < inch inch

32 Cotton Fiber Length

33 Length Histogram Long staple Short staple

34 HVI Fiber Length Parameters Upper Half Mean Length (UHML) Mean Length 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5 Length, inch

35 AFIS: fiber individualizer

36 Schematic of a cotton fiber with crimp Length of the signal

37 Relative Frequency 0,09 0,08 0,07 0,06 0,05 0,04 0,03 0,02 0,01 0 AFIS Fiber Length Parameters 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5 Length (in) UQL(w) [in] L(n) [in] L5%(n) [in] SFC(n) [%]

38 0,03 0,22 0,41 0,59 0,78 0,97 1,16 1,34 1,53 1,72 1,91 2,09 2,28 2,47 Relative Frequency Length Distribution Comparison Bales with UHML of 1.10 in 0,08 0,07 0,06 0,05 0,04 0,03 0,02 0,01 0,00 Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3 Length (in)

39 AFIS ML(n), inch HVI UHML vs. AFIS Length-by-Number (3,129 commercial bales) 1,00 0,95 0,90 0,85 0,80 0,75 0,70 0,65 0,60 0,90 1,00 1,10 1,20 1,30 HVI UHML, inch

40 AFIS SFC(w), % AFIS Maturity Ratio vs. AFIS SFC(w) R² = 0, ,76 0,78 0,80 0,82 0,84 0,86 0,88 0,90 0,92 AFIS Maturity Ratio, no unit

41 Combing

42 Noils, % AFIS SFC(w) vs. Noils R² = 0, AFIS SFC(w), %

43 Percentage Cotton 3457 H = 165 mtex MR = 0.86 Ln = ,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5 Length, inch Raw

44 Percentage Cotton 3457 (20% noils) H = 145 mtex MR = 0.71 Ln = % by number H = 183 mtex MR = 0.94 Ln = % by number 0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5 Length, inch Noils DII

45 Within-sample force-to-break vs. length

46 Cotton Fiber Tensile Properties: Focus on Elongation

47 Load, N Typical Load Elongation curve l 0 Area under curve = Work-to-break 0,0 0,2 0,4 0,6 0,8 1,0 Elongation, mm

48 break, % Single fiber tensile properties of developing cotton fibers DPA TX55 TX19

49 Force-to-break, g Single fiber tensile properties of developing cotton fibers DPA TX55 TX19

50 Background The contribution of fiber bundle elongation in the work of rupture of fiber bundles is critically important to processing performance.

51 Hypothesis New cultivars with improved work of rupture should result in lower fiber breakage when the cotton fibers are submitted to different mechanical stresses (ginning, carding, spinning, and weaving).

52 High Heritability May et al. reported that heritability of fiber tenacity is generally high. Among eighteen studies undertaken between 1954 and 1994, the narrow sense heritability for fiber tenacity was ranging from 0.10 to 0.86 while for fiber elongation the narrow sense heritability was ranging from 0.36 to 0.90.

53 Negative correlation But, May also reported negative correlations between fiber elongation and fiber tenacity.

54 Elongation, % Elongation vs. HVI tenacity 547 wild-type cotton samples R 2 = *** Tenacity, cn/tex

55 Force-to-break, g.cm FAVIMAT: Elongation-at-break vs. Force-to-break 6,2 5,8 5,4 5,0 4,6 4,2 3,8 3,4 y = x R 2 = Elongation-at-break, %

56 Stdev Elongation-at-break, % FAVIMAT Elongation-at-break vs. FAVIMAT Stdev Elongation-at-break (among fibers) 4,0 3,8 3,6 3,4 3,2 3,0 2,8 2,6 2,4 2,2 2,0 1,8 y = x R 2 = FAVIMAT Elongation-at-break, %

57 Background Because of the lack of HVI calibration for elongation and the negative correlation with strength most of the breeders simply ignore fiber elongation. However, this level of correlation does not preclude simultaneous improvement of fiber tenacity and fiber elongation.

58 Conclusion Is it possible to improve the work-to-break (quantity of energy necessary to break a fiber or a bundle of fibers) of cotton using HVI?

59 Tensile Strength Tester

60 Load, N Load vs. Elongation 70 l ,0 0,2 0,4 0,6 0,8 1,0 1,2 1,4 1,6 1,8 2,0 Elongation, mm

61 Load, N Work of rupture calculations We cannot record the curves load-elongation for the HVI. Nevertheless, the HVI work of rupture should be related to the product tenacity * elongation ,0 0,2 0,4 0,6 0,8 1,0 1,2 1,4 1,6 1,8 2,0 Elongation, mm

62 W, cn/tex 1,2 1,1 Work of rupture (Instron) W vs. HVI Tenacity * Elongation R 2 = ,0 0,9 0,8 0,7 0, Tenacity * Elongation (HVI)

63 W: (x-base)/base*100 Estimated HVI work of rupture W vs. HVI Tenacity for selected elongations Base: 24 cn/tex 6% El. 9% 8% 7% 6% 5% 4% HVI Tenacity, cn/tex

64 Conclusion There is a strong relationship between work of rupture measured with an Instron and the product tenacity elongation measured with HVI. With the current marketing system the variety with a higher strength and a lower elongation would receive a premium while its performance in spinning and weaving (all other parameters being equal) would be probably lower.

65 Breeding for elongation to improve fiber and yarn quality

66 25 crosses An example (J. Dever program) Divergent selection based on HVI elongation For each cross, divergent elongations (high low) keeping everything else as constant as possible. 3 couples (High Low elongation) in 2 locations with 4 replications.

67 HVI Elongation, % HVI Elongation, % HVI Elongation A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control Year: 2011 Year: 2012 Light color = Halfway - Dark color = Lubbock

68 HVI Strength, g/tex HVI Strength, g/tex HVI Strength A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control Year: 2011 Year: 2012 Light color = Halfway - Dark color = Lubbock

69 Yarn elongation, % Yarn elongation, % Yarn elongation (RS 18Ne carded) 7,0 7,0 6,5 6,5 6,0 6,0 5,5 5,5 5,0 5,0 4,5 4,5 4,0 4,0 3,5 3,5 A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control Year: 2011 Year: 2012 Light color = Halfway - Dark color = Lubbock

70 Yarn tenacity, cn/tex Yarn tenacity, cn/tex Yarn tenacity (RS 18Ne carded) A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control Year: 2011 Year: 2012 Light color = Halfway - Dark color = Lubbock

71 Yarn work-to-break, gf.cm Yarn work-to-break, gf.cm Yarn work-to-break (RS 18Ne carded) A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control A Low A High B Low B High Entry C Low C High Control Year: 2011 Year: 2012 Light color = Halfway - Dark color = Lubbock Best entry (C High): % in 2011 and +50.2% in 2012 versus control

72 Conclusion Better elongation translates into better workto-break. Therefore, less fiber breakage when fibers are submitted to mechanical stress is likely. Less fiber breakage should translate into better fiber length distribution and less yarn defects.

73 Short Fiber content (n), % AFIS Short Fiber Content by number 29,0 28,5 28,0 27,5 27,0 26,5 26,0 25,5 25,0 24,5 24,0 A Low A High B Low B High C Low C High Control Entry

74 Yarn thick places, count/km Yarn elongation vs. Thick places +50% (RS 18Ne carded) R² = 0, Uster 50% Uster 25% ,5 4,0 4,5 5,0 5,5 6,0 6,5 7,0 Yarn elongation, %

75 Conclusion It is possible to improve bundle elongation with HVI. Better HVI elongation translates into less fiber breakage when fibers are submitted to mechanical stress. Less fiber breakage means better fiber length distribution. Better HVI elongation translates into better yarn elongation, better work-to-break, less yarn defects.

76 It is critically important to estimate the propensity to break of cotton fibers. Propensity to break is related to: Conclusion fiber length (longer fibers tend to break more and need to be processed more gently) Maturity (poor fiber micro-structure leads to weak fibers) elongation-to-break (brittle fibers do not process well), force-to-break (weak fibers tend to break when submitted to mechanical processing).

77 Fiber production, 1,000 tons General Conclusion Cotton production in Brazil is on the rise Production = 28.2 year R² = Crop year A significant part of the production is exported.

78 General Conclusion A large part of the exports from Brazil is directed to Asia where ring spinning is dominant.

79 General Conclusion The ring spinning market needs fiber that are: Long (at least 35 staple) Uniform in length (low short fiber content*) Strong Fine and mature * Short fibers are mostly immature fibers that have been broken when submitted to mechanical processing. Therefore, fiber maturity is of the utmost importance.

80 General Conclusion Due to the demand of the ring spinning market cotton breeders, agronomists, and plant protection specialists need to concentrate their efforts on improving both yield and fiber quality. The biggest threat to our industry is producing a mediocre cotton fiber that cannot compete with man-made fibers in terms of cost, productivity in the field and in the textile mills, and quality of the end-product.

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