Adwen Cape. Blacker Designs

Transcription

1 Adwen Cape

2 Level of difficulty: intermediate to advanced This cosy and stylish cape is a large project in Classic Aran yarn, designed by Judy Furlong. While not difficult, the garment has big cables and comes in several parts to be assembled, so needs attention to detail. It would be a good project to develop new skills in structured garments, but mainly it s a lovely warm, attractive garment of cable and moss stitch panels, with saddle shoulders and a wonderful big cowl neck. It comes in five sizes. If you want to try out the cable panel designs first, you could consider a shawl or throw or even just a tunic but this cape is well worth the work! Measurements To fit bust: 86 (91-96, , , ) cm, approximately 34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50) inches Actual measurement at bust: 139 (145, 161, 178, 194) cm, approximately 55 (57,63, 70, 77) inches Hem circumference: 154 (158, 172, 188, 202) cm, approximately 61(62, 68, 74, 80) inches Length from nape to lower edge: 54 (54, 54, 64, 64) cm, approximately 21 (21, 21, 25, 25) inches Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes, where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes. Materials: 16 (17, 19, 24, 26) 50g balls Classic British Aran originally worked in gold, but this is a great opportunity to use olive, blues, oxblood or the natural shades as well! 1 pair of 6mm needles 40cm circular 6mm needle (for collar), or set of double pointed needles, or use Magic Loop (for collar) cable needle stitch markers row counter waste yarn or stitch holders (to hold sts) Tension/Gauge 20 sts and 21 rows to 10cm over combined textured sts, using 6mm needles 14 sts and 21 rows and over stocking stitch, using 6mm needles Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension. Abbreviations st, sts = stitch, stitches k = knit, p = purl sl 1 = slip 1 st purl wise psso = pass the slipped stitch over tbl = through back of loops k2 (3) tog or p2 (3) tog = knit or purl the next 2 (3) sts together ssk = slip 1 st, sl 1 st, k2tog tbl decrease: work next two sts together wyif = with yarn in front wyib = with yarn in back RS = right side WS = wrong side LH = left hand RH = right hand pm = place marker sm = slide market (slide marker onto needle to maintain marker as work progresses) cn = cable needle Cable and chart stitch abbreviations Moss stitch = k1, p1 to last st, k1 cdd = sl next two sts (as if to k2tog), K1, psso make bobble = (k1, p1, k1) all into the next st, turn, p3, turn cdd Cable 6 back = sl 3 onto cn to back, k3, k3 sts from cn Cable 6 front = sl 3 onto cn to front, k3, k3 sts from cn 2/1 left cross = sl 2 to onto cn to front, p1, p2 from cn 2/1 right cross = sl 1 onto cn to back, k2, k1 from cn 2/1 left purl cross = sl 2 onto cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn 2/1 right purl cross = sl 1 to cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn Structure The cape has two main panels for the back and front, plus two side panels, and then the flared shaping is created by 4 tapered godets, set between the panels. Once the body has been worked, the panels are assembled and the shoulders are worked, to make a stylish snug fit and then finally the collar is worked. Each of the four panels is a rectangle 23.5 (23.5, 26, 32, 34.5) cm, approximately 9 (9, 10.5, 12.5, 13.5) inches wide and 54 (54, 54, 64, 64) cm, approximately 21 (21, 21, 25, 25) inches long. The godets start at 15[16, 17, 18, 19] cm, approximately 6 (6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.5) inches wide and taper to nothing. Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 1

3 Back Panel Using pair of 6mm needles, cast on 47 (47, 51, 59, 63) sts Setting panels The panels are set more widely as the sizes increase the greater number of stitches is between the vertical green lines on Chart A, which shows the first size. Rows 1 and 2 are given in full below and thereafter the designs rise vertically between the moss stitch spaces. Row 1 (Chart A, Row 1): k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, starting with p1, moss st 5, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 2: P1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with p1, moss st 5, k3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 12, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Rows 3 & 4: Repeat last two rows Rows 5 to 104 (124): Work Rows 5 to 24 (inclusive of both) of Chart A, 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times, working sts 3 and 4 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) times, sts 5, 18, 30 and 43 1(1, 1, 3, 3) times, and sts 44 and 45 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) times as established Chart A rows 5 to 24 in full, note that the two designs, Moss Stitch Cable, over 12 sts, and Hollow Oak, over 11 sts are highlighted to aid counting: Row 5: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with p1, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3, p3, k2, make bobble, k2, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with p1, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 6: p1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, p5, k3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 7: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, make bobble, k3, make bobble, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 8: as row 6 Row 9: as row 5 Row 10: as row 6 Row 11: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p2, 2/1 right cross, 2/1 left cross, p2, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 12: p1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k2, p2, k1, p1, k1 p2, k2, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, moss stitch 6, p3, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 13: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, 2/1 right purl cross, k1, p1, k1, 2/1 left purl cross, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 14: p1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 15: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), 2/1 right cross, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, 2/1 left cross, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 16: moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k 1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 17: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 18: as row 16 Row 19: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), 2/1 left purl cross, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, 2/1 right purl cross, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 2

4 Row 20: as row 14 Row 21: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, 2/1 left purl cross, k1, p1, k1, 2/1 right purl cross, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p1, k1, p1, k6, p1, k1, p1, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 22: moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k2, p2, k1, p1, k1 p2, k2, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k1, p1, k1, purl 6, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 Row 23: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p2, 2/1 left purl cross, p1, 2/1 right purl cross, p2, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), cable 6 back, cable 6 front, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 Row 24: k1, moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with k1, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), p3, k5, p3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), k3, starting with k1, moss stitch 6, k3, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3), moss st 3 (3, 5, 5, 7), k1 First 3 sizes only Rows 105 to 113: Work Rows 5 to 13 (inclusive of both) of Chart A Row 114: Work Row 14 of Chart A, decreasing 1 st at each end of row.. Break off yarn, slip the first 4 (4, 6) sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Back shoulder, the centre 37 sts for centre Back neck and the last 4 (4, 6) sts for Left Back shoulder on the following 7 rows to leave 6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts First 3 sizes only Row 114 (WS): k2tog, (k1, p1) 1 (1, 2) times, ssk to leave 4 (4, 6) sts Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Left Front shoulder Last 2 sizes only Row 134 (WS): k2tog, k3tog, p1, (k1, p1) 1 (2) times, ssk to leave 6 (8) sts Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Left Front shoulder All sizes With RS facing, slip centre 17 (17, 17, 21, 21) sts onto waste yarn, p2tog tbl, pattern to end on the 14 (14, 16, 18, 20) remaining sts Right neck edge Maintaining pattern, decrease 1 st at neck edge on the following 8 rows to leave 6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts First 3 sizes only Row 114 (WS): k2tog, (p1, k1) 1 (1, 2) times, ssk to leave 4 (4, 6) sts Last 2 sizes only Rows 125 to 133: Work Rows 5 to 13 (inclusive of both) of Chart A Row 134: Work Row 10 of Chart B as follows: k2tog, moss st 4 (6), cdd (sl 2 sts off as if to k2tog, K1, psso), k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, cdd, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, cdd, k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, cdd, moss st 4 (6), ssk, to leave 49 (53) sts Break off yarn, slip the first 6 (8) sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Back shoulder, the centre 37 sts for centre Back neck and the last 6 (8) sts for Left Back shoulder FRONT PANEL Work as for Back Panel to last 10 rows, ending after Row 104 (104, 104, 124, 124) Left Neck Edge Rows 105 (125) to 113 (133): maintaining pattern as set, Pattern 13 (13, 15, 17, 19), ssk, turn, p2tog tbl, pattern to end. Working on these sts only and maintaining the pattern, decrease 1 st at neck edge Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Front shoulder Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 3

5 Last 2 sizes only Row 134 (WS): k2tog, (p1, k1) 1 (2) times, p1, k3tog, ssk to leave 6 (8) sts Break off yarn, slip sts on waste yarn and set aside for Right Front shoulder SIDE PANELS (make 2) Using pair 6mm of needles, cast on 47 (47, 51, 51, 55) sts Work from Chart A as for Back Panel to row 104 (124) Leave sts on waste yarn with yarn attached BACK GODETS (make 2) Note: Hollow Oak is the design over sts 19 to 29 and Rows 5 to 24 (20 row repeat) of Chart A Using pair of 6mm needles, cast on 33 (35, 37, 39, 41) sts Row 8: p1, knit to marker, sm, pattern 11 sts in Hollow Oak, knit to last st, p1 Rows 9 to 10 (30): Repeat the last two rows 1 (1, 1, 11, 11) more times Next row (RS): k1, p2tog, purl to marker, sm, pattern 11 sts, sm, purl to last 3sts, p2tog, k1 Continuing to maintain Hollow Oak work as follows: Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 12th row 4 (4, 4, 4, 3) times to leave 23 (25, 27, 29, 33) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 10th row 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) time to leave 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 8th row 3 (2, 0, 0, 0) times to leave 15 (19, 25, 27, 29) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 6th row 1 (1, 3, 1, 0) times to leave 13 (17, 19, 25, 29) sts Decrease 1 st at both ends of the following 4th row 2 (4, 5, 8, 10) times to leave 9 sts Next row (WS): p1, k3, p1, k3, p1 Next row: k1, p7, k1 Next row: p1, k7, p1 Next row: k1, p3tog, p1, p3tog tbl, k1 Next row: ssk, k1, p2tog (3 sts) Break off yarn, leave sts on waste yarn. RIGHT FRONT GODET Work as for Back Godet and AT THE SAME TIME, when row 24 has been completed, pattern the first 5 sts in moss st on the next 40 rows as follows: Row 25: p1, (k1, p1) twice, complete row as established Row 26: Pattern to last 5 sts, p1, (k1, p1) twice On decrease rows, work the shaping after the moss st section as follows: Rows 35, 47 & 59: p1, (k1, p1) twice, p2tog, complete row as established Row 1: *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, K1 Row 2: p2, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last st, p1 Rows 3 and 4: repeat Rows 1 and 2 Row 5: k1, p10 (11, 12, 13, 14), pm, pattern Row 1 of Hollow Oak (Row 5, sts 19 to 29 of Chart A), pm, p10 (11, 12, 13, 14), k1 Row 6: p1, k10 (11, 12, 13, 14), sm, pattern Row 2 of Hollow Oak (Row 6, sts 29 to 19 of Chart A), sm, k10 (11, 12, 13, 14), p1 Row 7: k1, purl to marker, sm, pattern 11 sts in Hollow Oak, sm, purl to last st, k1 LEFT FRONT GODET Work as for Right Front Godet but pattern the LAST 5 sts in moss st as follows: Row 25: Pattern to last 5 sts, p1, (k1, p1) twice Row 26: p1, (k1, p1) twice, pattern to end On decrease rows, work the shaping before the moss st section as follows: Rows 35, 47 & 59: Pattern to last 7 sts, p2tog tbl, p1, (k1, p1) INTERIM MAKEUP Block out all pieces using measurements as a guide Steam very gently, allow to dry fully Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 4

6 Shape Right Shoulder Slip sts of one Side Panel back onto LH needle (tip pointing to right when viewed from RS) Row 1: maintaining the central Hollow Oak pattern, and maintaining the remainder of the pattern but decreasing at either side for 9 rows, work as follows: pattern 16 (16, 18, 18, 20), p2tog, pm, p3, k2, make bobble, k2, p3, pm, p2tog tbl (these last 13 sts form the saddle shoulder) pattern to end Row 2: Pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k3, p5, k3, sm, ssk, pattern to end Continue established for 7 more rows ending with WS facing for next row, and decreasing once at beginning of Row 9 Row 10: k2tog, pattern to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, sm, ssk, wyif sl 1p-wise onto the RH needle, turn Row 11: p2tog, pattern 11, p2tog tbl, wyib sl 1p-wise onto RH needle, turn Row 12: k2tog, pattern 11, ssk, wyif sl 1p-wise the RH needle, turn Rows 13 to 16 and onwards: repeat the last two rows, 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) more times to leave 15 sts Assembling Front, Right Front Godet, Right Side and Right Back Godet Next Row: Slip the 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) sts of Front Right onto RH (empty) needle (tip pointing to left when viewed from RS), then remaining 3 sts of Right Front Godet (tip pointing to left when viewed from RS), sl 1 purlwise the last of these Right Front Godet sts onto the LH needle (wyib), p2tog (last right front godet and first saddle shoulder st), pattern 11 (Hollow Oak), sl 1 purlwise the remaining saddle shoulder st onto RH needle, then with RS facing, slip the 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) sts of Back Right shoulder onto LH (empty) needle, then the remaining 3 sts of Back Godet onto LH needle (tip pointing to right when viewed from RS) then return the last saddle shoulder st to the LH needle, p2tog tbl, wyib sl 1 p-wise onto RH needle, turn Next Row: As Row 12 Next Row: As Row 11 Next Row: As Row 12 Repeat the last 2 rows until 13 (saddle shoulder) sts remain. Break off yarn and slip sts onto waste yarn or stitch holder Shape Left Shoulder Slip sts of remaining Side Panel back onto LH needle (tip pointing to right on when viewed from RS) Rows 1 to 16: Work as for Right Shoulder Assembling Back, Left Back Godet, Left Side and Left Front Godet Row 17: With RS facing, slip the 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) sts of Left Back Neck onto RH (empty) needle (tip pointing to left when viewed from RS), then remaining 3sts of a Back Godet (tip pointing to left when viewed from RS), sl 1 purlwise the last of these Back Godet sts onto the LH needle (wyib), p2tog (last Back godet and first saddle shoulder st), pattern 11 (Hollow Oak), sl 1 purlwise (wyib) the remaining saddle shoulder st onto RH needle, then with RS facing, slip the 4 sts of Left Front neck edge onto LH (empty) needle, then remaining 3 sts of Left Front Godet onto LH needle (tip pointing to right when viewed from RS) then return the last saddle shoulder st to the LH needle, p2tog tbl, wyib, sl 1 purlwise onto RH needle, turn Complete as for Right shoulder Collar Neck edge Replace neck sts on circular needle as follows: - with RS facing slip Centre Back 37 sts onto 6mm circular needle, followed by the 13sts of Left saddle shoulder, 17 (17, 17, 21, 21) sts at centre Front and 13sts of Right saddle shoulder, place round end marker First 3 sizes Round 1: join in yarn, (p1, k1) 25 times (Centre Back and Left saddle), pick up and knit 8 sts along left edge of Front, p1,(k1, p1) 8 times, pick up and knit 8 sts along right edge of Front, k1, (p1, k1) 6 times (Right saddle), to make 96 sts Last 2 sizes Round 1: join in yarn, (p1, k1) 25 times (Centre Back and Left saddle), pick up and knit 8 sts along left edge of Front, p1, k2tog, p2tog, (k1, p1) 5 times, k1, p2tog, k2tog, p1, pick up and knit 8 sts along right edge of Front, k1, (p1, k1) 6 times (Right saddle) to make 96 sts All sizes Round 2: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round Round 3: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round Rounds 4 to 7: repeat the last two rounds two more times Break off yarn, leave sts on waste yarn or spare needle Main collar With circular needle, cast on 132 sts, pm, join round Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 5

7 Rounds 1 to 44: Work rounds 1 to 24 of Chart B Collar twice, repeating the chart 4 times to complete the round Note: essentially this is Chart A with an extra 3 moss sts after st 18 to make 33 sts, rather than 30 sts Round 45 (shown as Round 25 on chart): *p2, ssk, p1, k1, ssk, (k1, p2togtbl) twice, k1, ssk, p2, ssk, k2, p2tog tbl, k2, ssk, k1, p1, p2tog tbl, repeat from *three more times to end of round, still 96 sts Leave sts on needle with approximately 2.5m yarn attached TO FINISH OFF Attaching collar to cape Slip neck edge sts onto a circular needle With RS of collar and cape facing, sit collar over cape (WS of collar against RS of cape) Hold both circular needles together, graft collar to cape Alternatively, three needle bind off on the WS of collar Darn in loose ends Sew seams omitting moss stitch section on Front godets, for arm/hand openings Gently steam shoulder seams over tailor s ham or rolled towel Care advice: Hand wash in cool water using a liquid wool wash. Spin dry. Do not tumble dry. Spread to dry on a towel or drying rack, hand pressing garment to shape and correct size. Garments may be hung to dry on a hanger or over a clothes or ceiling airer once they have been spun, but with a hanger you may get hanger marks at the shoulders and a larger garment may grow if too damp before hanging; and with bars you should move a little several times to avoid marks. Stocking stitch and lace garments may benefit from light pressing (never press rib areas as they will lose their stretch!). Store folded. Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 6

8 Charts and Key Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: Page 7

9 Cape Schematic and measurements 36 [36: 40: 40: 44] cm approximately 6 [6: 8: 8: 10] cm 18.5cm 3cm 14cm approx. bustline circumference 139 [145: 161: 178: 194] cm 5 4[54: 54: 64: 64] cm circumference 154 [158: 172: 188: 202] cm Use is restricted to bona fide customers or licensees of Yarns and Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 8