A Fresh Take. Tap the potential of repoussé to give your jewelry dimension without added weight.
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1 intermediate metal BOUQUET OF TECHNIQUES A Fresh Take on a Floral Tap the potential of repoussé to give your jewelry dimension without added weight. by Grace Stokes T he floral brooch is a time-honored motif that s continually being reinterpreted by jewelry makers. In this version, I ve used traditional metalsmithing techniques to make the stem and leaves of my brooch. The rich red flower is a polymer clay cabochon that I ve bezel-set and embedded with fine-silver granules. The overall impression is a pin that s equal parts elegance and whimsy. I ll show you how to give the leaves in this brooch dimension by using basic hammering techniques of repoussé and chasing. You can bezel-set a polymer cabochon as I did, or choose a cab of stone or some other material it s all open to your interpretation. FCT-MW _ Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. facetjewelry.com
2 Brooch The repoussé leaves provide volume without adding weight to this stunning flower. 3¼ x 3 in. (83 x 76 mm).
3 1 2 1 Part 1 Polymer clay cabochon Cut wire for the silver granules. Use wire cutters to snip about mm pieces from 22-gauge (0.6 mm) fine-silver wire [1]. NOTE: Varying the lengths of the wire pieces will result in granules of different sizes, which will make the granule pattern on the cabochon more random. Make the granules. Place the wire pieces on a soldering pad or charcoal block. Use your torch to heat each wire piece until it forms a granule [2]. Quench, pickle and rinse the granules. (See How to Pickle Granules, opposite, for tips.) Then, dry the granules on a paper towel. (I made extra granules for future projects [3].) Make the cabochon. Condition 1 oz. (28 g) of polymer clay. Form a ball that s approximately 3 8 in. (9.5 mm) in diameter. Slightly flatten the bottom of the ball, forming a cabochon that s about 1 4 in. (6.5 mm) high. Add the granules to the cabochon. Spread the granules on a paper towel. With your forefinger against the flat side of the cabochon, press the rounded side of the cab into the granules, using moderate pressure [4 and 5] Carefully run your fingertip over the impressed granules to make sure they re securely embedded in the clay. Push any loose granules into the clay with your fingertip or a smoothing tool. Reshape the cab as necessary. NOTE: Avoid placing granules along the outer edges of the cab; they could interfere with the bezel later. Cure the cabochon. Bake the cabochon in a preheated oven according to the manufacturer s instructions. Allow the cab to cool completely. Part 2 Brooch components 2 Bezel cup Make the bezel cup. Shape 28-gauge (0.32 mm) 3 mm-high bezel wire around the cab to form a bezel [1]. Solder the bezel seam, using hard solder. Then, cut a backplate from 24-gauge (0.5 mm) sterling silver sheet. Solder the bezel to the backplate, using medium solder. Trim the excess backplate, and then file the backplate flush to the bezel. Leaves Construct the leaf-shaped frames. Using chainnose, flatnose, and half-round forming pliers, bend 24-gauge (0.5 mm) sterling silver bezel wire into a leaf-shaped frame [2]. My frame is about 7 8 x 7 16 in. (22 x 11 mm). Solder the frame s join with hard solder [3], and trim the excess wire. Cut a backplate from 24-gauge (0.5 mm) sterling silver sheet. Solder the frame to the backplate, using medium solder [4]. Trim the excess backplate and file it flush to the frame [5]. Make two more leaf frames; vary their shape and size to add interest. Add dimension to the leaves. To give the leaves some volume, you ll use a basic repoussé technique.
4 Place a leaf frame flat-side down on a leather sandbag or into a depression in a wood block. Use 2 5 mm-diameter dapping punches and a chasing hammer to dome the metal leaf, working from the center of the leaf outward [6]. Dome the second and third leaves the same way [7]. Add vein details. I created the look of veins in two of the leaves by using a basic chasing technique. (If you don t need an entire set of chasing tools, see Make Your Own Chasing Tool. ) Place a leaf domed-side up on your leather sandbag or wood block. Use a blunt liner chasing tool and a chasing hammer to make a vertical line down the center of the leaf [8]. Repeat to add a vein to another leaf. silver wire roughly into a circle [9]. File the ends of the wire flat to make a tight join. Use hard solder to solder the join. Pickle, rinse, and dry the ring. Use a ring mandrel and a rawhide hammer to shape the ring into a perfect circle with an outside diameter of approximately 5 8 in. (16 mm). Stem Shape the stem. Use a jeweler s saw with a 4/0 blade to cut a 3½-in. (89 mm) piece of 8-gauge (3.3 mm) half-round sterling silver wire. Place the flat side of the wire on a soft cotton cloth on a sturdy work surface. Using the cloth to protect the wire, use half-round forming pliers to bend the wire into a subtle arc [10]. TIP: To straighten twisted or torqued wire, anneal the wire and then use a rawhide mallet to hammer it on a bench block. File the stem. The end of the stem that you ll solder to the large decorative ring must fit against the ring without gaps. Use a file to shape this end of the stem to create a tight fit. File and sand the other end of the stem smooth. Decorative rings Make small decorative rings. Wrap 20-gauge (0.8 mm) square wire around a mandrel or roundnose pliers to make three jump rings with inside diameters that range from 3 16 in. (5 mm) to ¼ in. (6.5 mm). Or, use 20-gauge (0.8 mm) round wire to make the jump rings, and then place them on a bench block and flatten them with a chasing hammer. Make a large decorative ring. Use chainnose pliers to bend a in. (48 mm) piece of 16-gauge (1.3 mm) square sterling how to pickle granules Instead of trying to use copper tongs to retrieve granules from your pickle pot, place them in a plastic container. Choose a plastic container that s taller than the pickle level in your pickle pot. Punch small holes in your container about 1 4 in. (6.5 mm) from the bottom. Place quenched granules in the container, and put it into your pickle pot. The container will fill with pickle, covering the granules. When the granules are clean, simply raise the container to drain the pickle, leaving the granules at the bottom. AK
5 Part 3 Brooch assembly Solder the brooch components. You ll use medium and easy solder to join the brooch components pickling, rinsing, and fluxing the components between courses of soldering. TIP: When you re soldering multiple joins, plan your soldering sequence so that you don t melt any previous joins. For example, if two joins are in close proximity, use medium solder for the first join and easy solder for the second join. If you accidentally melt a previous join, go back and carefully resolder it. One way to prevent an existing solder join from reflowing is to coat make your own chasıng tool There is no need to invest in an expensive set of chasing tools to begin experimenting with repoussé and chasing techniques. You can make your own chasing tool by slightly modifying the head of a steel flathead screwdriver into a blunt tip. The key is to prevent the metal from getting hot while you re reshaping the head. If the metal gets hot, the steel may become brittle, making the tool unreliable and unsafe. While you re working, be sure to frequently dip the screwdriver head into water to keep it cool. Here are a few tools you can use to reshape the screwdriver head: Your flex shaft with a heatless-grinding-wheel or Cratex-wheel attachment Wet/dry sandpaper in various grits Bench grinder After you ve reshaped the tool to your preferred shape, polish the metal with a silicone-polishing-wheel attachment in your flex shaft. Again, stop to dip the metal in water if the screwdriver becomes warm. JLE it with an anti-flux, such as yellow ochre, before you make your next solder join. First, solder the bezel cup to the inside of the large ring, and then solder the stem to the outside of the large ring [1]. With a fine-tip marker, draw marks on the stem where you want to position each leaf [2]. Check the fit of the leaves against the stem, and file or refine these contact points as necessary to achieve a tight fit. Then, solder the leaves to the stem. Mark the position of the three small jump rings against the large ring [3]. File a small flat spot at the cut in each jump ring so that the jump rings fit tightly against the large ring with no gaps. Solder the jump rings to the assembly. Prefinish the assembly. Use hand files to remove any excess solder. Work through progressively finer grits of sandpaper up materials Screwdriver: steel, flathead tools & supplies Shaping tools (choose from): Flex shaft; heatless grinding wheel or Cratex wheel Wet/dry sandpaper: various grits Bench grinder Flex shaft, silicone polishing wheel to a very fine grit to refine the back of the assembly; you won t be able to access this area after you attach the pin-back findings.
6 Process photos by Kevin Olds. Part 4 Pin back and finishing Position the pin-back findings. Determine where to position the catch and hinge on the back of the brooch so that the brooch will be well balanced when it s worn. Position the catch with its opening facing downward to keep the brooch from falling off if the catch opens while the brooch is being worn. Mark the location for the catch and hinge [1]. Measure the pin stem against your marks to ensure a proper fit. Solder on the catch and hinge. Use a dapping punch to make two depressions in a soldering block to hold the catch and hinge components. Brush yellow ochre (anti-flux) on the catch mechanism, keeping the flat bottom of the catch clean, and allow the anti-flux to dry completely. Flux the flat bottoms of the hinge and catch, and insert them into the depressions in the soldering block so that the flat surfaces to be soldered are exposed [2]. Sweat a small amount of easy solder onto the catch and hinge. Quench, pickle, and rinse the findings. Then flux the brooch and the findings. Position the catch and hinge on their respective marks on the back of the brooch. Use a soft, bushy flame to heat the assembly until the solder on the catch and hinge flows. Quench, pickle, and rinse the assembly. Complete the finishing. Using hand files and sandpaper, refine the edges of your brooch and remove any marks. Use a soft muslin buff charged with tripoli to remove any remaining firescale or light scratches. Clean the piece well, using soapy water, to remove any polishing-compound residue. For a soft matte finish, use a ScotchBrite wheel in your flex shaft. For a high shine, use a clean, soft muslin buff charged with rouge. Clean the assembly well with soapy water to remove any polishing compound. Set the cabochon. Compensate for the protruding pin-back findings by making a jig to hold the brooch flat while you set the cabochon. Drill two shallow holes in a scrap wood block so that the holes correspond to the position of the catch and hinge [3]. Place the catch and hinge in the holes and then set the cab [4]. Attach the pin stem. If necessary, cut the pin stem to the proper length. Sand the end to a tapered point, and use chainnose pliers to secure the stem in the hinge [5]. materials Polymer clay: 1 oz. (28 g) Fine-silver wire: 22-gauge (0.6 mm), round, 6 in. (15.2 cm) Sterling silver wire: 20-gauge (0.8 mm), square or round, 2 in. (51 mm) 16-gauge (1.3 mm), square, 2 in. (51 mm) 8-gauge (3.3 mm), half-round, deadsoft, 3½ in. (89 mm) Fine-silver bezel wire: 28-gauge (0.32 mm), 3 mm high, 2 in. (51 mm) Sterling silver bezel wire: 24-gauge (0.5 mm), 2.5 mm high, 9 in. (22.9 cm) Sterling silver sheet: 24-gauge (0.5 mm), 1 x 6 in. (25.5 x 152 mm) Sterling silver or nickel pin-back findings: hinge, catch, and 2-in. (51 mm) pin stem additional tools & supplies Plastic container Awl Toaster oven (Dedicated to nonfood use) Leather sandbag or wood block with a depression Dapping punches: 2 5 mm diameters Chasing tool: blunt liner Ring mandrel Soft cotton cloth Fine-tip permanent marker Yellow ochre Scrap wood block
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