COMPOSITES LAB MANUAL

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1 COMPOSITES LAB MANUAL Version 1 Lab 4: Wet Layup of complex shapes The original version of this manual was a one student senior design project written by Katherine White, the Composite lab assistant, during Spring 2016 semester under supervision of who captured almost all pictures in this manual. This current version (version 1) has been modified and amended by during Fall 2016 semester in order to be used by students enrolled in ME436/L course: Mechanics and Design with Composite Materials, as well as Senior Design students. 1

2 A. Complex Shape Layup Working with odd geometries can be challenging, especially if working with pre-preg. However, don not immediately steer away from pre-preg materials in this situation because they are preferred as they produce lighter parts at better strengths. Pre-preg layups can take much longer than wet layups in terms of applying the material, especially if working with uni-directional lamiane. This is because the pre-preg may need to be applied in smaller strips to get it to adhere properly than if you were to do a wet layup. With that said, during wet layups you want to try to cut your material to the exact size you want before applying resin. If you have to cut off material during the layup, it can become very messy and you can end up destroying tools. You must also be cautious, making sure that the material is fully applied to the mold and sticking, but not distorting the fibers when applying them. In this lab we will focus on wet layup of a complex shape. Complex Shape Layup Steps: (1) Prepare surface for layup, see Lab 3. When using a mold like the one below be sure to be generous when applying wax, sealant release liquid (TR-910), and release liquid (TR-930). These molds have small indents in which resin could possibly get stuck and make releasing difficult. It is not worth the risk of destroying a mold by getting lazy with the surface preparation. Figure 1: (left) Mirror Glaze wax, (right) generously buff wax into mold (2) Prepare your kit. Cut a piece of fabric about the size of your mold (measure the mold with measuring tape to estimate size). Then put it on the mold and begin cutting it to exact size. Press it into the mold making sure it fits right and leaves enough room for bagging tape around the edges, being mindful that you will be putting resin on it as well. Note that you don t want to get resin on the bagging tape. 2

3 Figure 2 (left) estimated material size, (right) Cut off excess material leaving room for bagging tape (3) Carefully use your first piece as a template for the rest of your pieces Figure 3: Cut remaining layer necessary to the same shape of your first layer (4) Prepare bagging materials prior to layup, again check their size on the mold. You want the bagging film to be generous in size. This is because you will purposefully make pleats that will aid the bagging in applying pressure. It is important to do this on complex shapes where there are curves or sharp corners. It helps the composite stay applied to the mold and prevents bridging. The release film should only cover the composite, or anywhere that resin is, so the resin does not adhere to the breather or bagging film. The breather should be large enough to cover the release film. Make sure that you plan to have a space for your vacuum 3

4 connection. The vacuum connection should be on a flat surface that easily allows air to flow. Figure 4: Make sure your bagging will properly fit the mold (5) Make sure to apply the vacuum tape before you start laying up. This will give you a guide as you go so you do not let resin spread too far and make sure the composite is contained. You want to make sure the vacuum tape is applied in a space where the bagging film will be able to reach while still applying pressure without bridging. Due to the small width of the bagging available for this demonstration, we tried to keep the tape close enough inward while still allowing some space for the composite to lay over the edges. When the composite lays over an edge it helps it stick to the mold. This extra lip can be cut off and sanded down later with a tool like a Dremell. Figure 5: Apply tape with care of its location 4

5 (6) If all of your supplies for mixing resin are ready and in a good designated area then begin mixing. Refer to the Wet Layup section in Lab 3 if you need review of this. Only prepare small amounts at first as you get a feel for how much resin this mold will require. You can start mixing double batches if you notice you will easily be able to use that much before the gel time is reached. Make sure you set a timer to keep track of the gel time. For the resin used here the gel time is one hour (it differs depending on the resin and hardener). This means we have one hour to apply all of the layers and then it needs to be bagged and put under vacuum. Figure 6: Prepping resin for the layup (7) Begin applying resin to the mold. Like the other wet layup, make sure the first layer is thick enough to prevent resin starved areas and bubbles. Make sure to apply to the sides and the outer edges (lip) so that the fibers can stick well to the mold. Figure 7: Pour in resin and then begin spreading evenly with brush 5

6 Figure 8: Notice that the resin does not get too close to the tape, but is still applied over the edge (8) Apply the first layer. Carefully drape the cloth so that it falls into the right place the first time. Moving the cloth after it is on the resin can distort the fiber so you want to avoid doing this whenever possible. Press the cloth into the mold. Begin to apply resin to this layer to that it sticks down to mold. You will need to work at this in sections at a time around the mold as seen in the pictures below. Once it begins sticking to the mold, you may notice that you need to cut off excess fabric. Try to avoid this, but if need be, do it and then immediately clean the scissors in acetone. Figure 9: Pressing the first layer into the mold, carefully molding it around the curves 6

7 Figure 10: Apply resin to the top of the layer to get it to stick to the sides of the mold and then cut off excess material if needed. Then give the layer a good coat of resin (9) Make sure to apply the resin up all sides evenly. Use your hands to make sure the cloth is pressing down evenly into all parts of the mold and that it is not lifting off the mold. Figure 11: Make sure the layer is sticking to the lip of the mold and check all sections to make sure the cloth is not lifting off the mold (10) Cut off any excess material from the second layer before applying it. Drape and press it into the mold as the first one. Apply resin to get it to stick and press into the mold further. and then fully coat with an even coat of resin. 7

8 Figure 12: Apply second layer and begin pressing into mold Figure 13: Make sure all sections are pressed well into the mold Figure 14: Layup ready to be bagged (11) This piece was only two layers. You would continue as above if you need to apply more. Otherwise move on to the bagging stage. Referto Lab 3 for the bagging process if 8

9 necessary. Make sure you are using perforate release film. Try to smooth out as many wrinkles as you can from the release film. Figure 15: Smooth release film into the mold and try to prevent wrinkling Figure 16: Cut off excess film so that it is not crossing the bagging tape (12) Apply breather cloth (Here we have used scrap pieces from previous layups to save material. The overlap will cause a crease but we are not worried about the appearance of the inside of the part so this is fine). 9

10 Figure 17: Apply breather cloth and cut off excess material so that it sits inside the bagging tape (13) Apply vacuum connection and then the bagging film. Make sure the bagging reaches all the way into the mold in order to apply pressure properly. As you bag, apply pleats (about 5) around the part. See the bagging section in Lab 3 if you need assistance in how to make a pleat. If you notice any leaks after applying the vacuum, you can stuff bagging tape into leaking holes. Figure 18: Bagging and distributing pleats 10

11 Figure 19: The part is finished and then under vacuum (14) Check the pressure of the pump as an indicator if there are any leaks. The pump we have here tends to only pull between kpa. If it is within this range, you are good to go. If not, check for leaks, and always listen around the bagging tape for hissing. Figure 20: The pump is displaying between kpa 11

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