SOUTHERN & CENTRAL ARGENTINA TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 SOUTHERN & CENTRAL ARGENTINA 18 NOVEMBER 9 DECEMBER 2007 TOUR REPORT LEADER: LUCIANO NICOLAS NAKA Argentina is famous for its vast plains, high mountains and wild scenery. However, to understand what this immensity means, you really have to drive it, sail it, and walk it. During almost three weeks we drove miles and miles of uninhabited land, with a myriad of birds to be found. In order to chase the top birds of Argentina, we had to cover long distances by road, we had to face the torrid wind and inhospitable weather of the Chaco woodlands, but also we had the fortune of visiting some of the finest landscapes in South America. This year our trip was a hard-working one. We had to fight for every single bird, and in the end we were rewarded with a total of 326 bird species; an impressive number considering that we were away from the tropics. Some of the birds were pretty elusive this year, and we needed four days in the right habitat to finally find the Magellanic Woodpecker, a bird that usually comes on the very first hours of good beech forest. But how to explain the glorious moments of a last minute miracle with a gorgeous female Woodpecker feeding for about an hour in front of our eyes? Or the fantastic moments spent watching 22 Hooded Grebes diving, mating, building their nests, displaying, and singing in a secret small lagoon lost in the middle of nowhere? Covering half of Argentina, from Cordoba to Patagonia, slowly, but steadily we filled our memories with great birds, including two species of rheas, four species of geese (including the endangered Ruddy-headed Goose), 19 species of ducks (including all three possible species of steamers, the odd Black-headed Duck, and the seldom seen Spectacled Duck), all five possible species of grebes, two species of penguins (Magellanic and Gentoo), many seabirds (with cormorants, shags, shearwaters, diving-petrels, storm-petrels, albatrosses and petrels), Andean Condors, several raptors (including Chilean Hawk and the localized Spot-winged Falconet), four species of caracaras (including a writein, the rare Striated Caracara), the mythical Austral Rails, the even more desired Red-and-white Crake, Snowy Sheathbills, Rufous-chested and Tawny-throated Dotterels, three species of oystercatchers, Magellanic Plovers, ten species of waders (including Buff-breasted Sandpiper), eleven species of gulls and terns, two species of skuas, the enigmatic Burrowing Parrots and Austral Parakeets, the impressive Magellanic Horned Owl, the Red-tailed Comet and six species of woodpeckers. Passerines also behaved pretty well, and we found up to 38 species of Furnariids, with their attractive names: miners, earthcreepers, eremobius, cinclodes (four species), Curved and Straight-billed Reedhaunters, rushbirds, rayaditos, tit-spinetails (three species), canasteros (six species), thornbirds, Firewood-gatherers, cacholotes, tree-runners etc But Argentina is not just made 1 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

2 of brown birds, we also got great views of amazing creatures such as Crested Gallito, Magellanic Tapaculo, Olive-crowned Crescentchest, Hudson s Black-Tyrant, three species of ground-tyrants (including Cinnamon-bellied), two shrike-tyrants, five species of monjitas (including Salinas, Rustybacked, and Chocolate-vented), two species of plantcutters, three species of pipits, Yellow-bridled and Black-throated Finches, Long-tailed Reed-Finch, four species of warbling-finches, and up to 12 species of blackbirds (including the highly endangered Pampas meadowlark). And let s not forget the 22 species of mammals that we found, including the most amazing views of the rare Red Fox, the massive Southern Right-Whale, the beautiful Commerson s Dolphins, the lovely Maras, Guanacos, Elephant Seals, and two species of skunks. This was certainly a trip for all tastes, and we shall keep it in our minds for a long time. Our trip started on a quiet Monday, and as always we had our first introduction to the Argentinean avifauna in Costanera Sur, a superb wetland reserve in the very heart of Buenos Aires. We were to visit Costanera on two occasions, and in our two visits we found several common yet great birds, such as White-tufted and Pied Grebes, Fulvous and White-faced Whistling-Ducks, Lake Ducks, Black-necked and Coscoroba Swans, Speckled and Silver Teals, Red Shovelers, and Rosy-billed Pochards. A highlight were the four Black-headed Ducks that we found wandering around large number of White-winged and Red-gartered Coots (possibly looking for an unattended nest to parasitize!). Other birds of interest included Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Brown-hooded Gulls, Blackhooded and Monk Parakeets, Guira Cuckoos, Spectacled Tyrants, Hooded Siskins, Red-crested Cardinals, Long-tailed Reed-Finches, Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finches, an Epaulet Oriole, and large numbers of Chestnut-capped Blackbirds. We complemented our introduction to the Pampas by paying a short visit to Ribera Norte, a small reserve on the other side of town. We were surprised with a good array of birds including Limpkin, Giant and Grey-necked Wood-Rails, several cooperative Rufous-sided Crakes, a Plumbeous Rail, a Dark-billed Cuckoo, Glittering-bellied and Gilded Sapphires, several pairs of Checkered and Golden-breasted Woodpeckers, Bran-coloured and Streaked Flycatchers, a Yellow-browed Tyrant, several Red-eyed Vireos, Masked Gnatcatchers, and three species that we were not to see again: Red-rumped Warbling-Finch, Golden-crowned Warbler, and Solitary Cacique. We also had our first write-in an out-of-range Large-billed Tern on the shores of the Rio de la Plata. After our first day in Buenos Aires, we had an early start and travelled through the pampas towards Otamendi, a natural reserve full of interesting species. As we drove along the dirt road, we flushed several Brazilian Teals, saw a number of herons (including Whistling, Cocoi, and Striated) and ibises (White-faced and bare-faced), while Long-winged Harriers and Snail Kites cruised the pampas, and Limpkins, Wattled Jacanas, and Southern Lapwings made themselves present with their loud voices. We also had the second surprise of the trip, when an amazingly tame Red-and-white Crake walked in the open in front of our astonished eyes. Filled with confidence after such a goodie, we continued searching for our targets, and soon after we spotted birds such as the Sooty-fronted and Sulphurbearded Spinetails, both of which put up a special show for us, as well as many Freckle-breasted Thornbirds and Curve-billed Reedhaunters. Our main target for that day, however, was to find the localized Straight-billed Reedhaunter. This one gave us some hard work, but eventually one bird decided to respond to our prayers (and tape) and showed briefly in between the reeds. In Otamendi, we also had good views of the Rufous-capped Antshrike, the only antbird of the pampas, and the handsome Scarlet-headed Blackbird. By noon, we had to retreat in order to catch our short flight to Cordoba, where we arrived at night and were welcomed by our friendly driver and hotel manager, who by the way, is also a great cook, a teacher (at the University of Cordoba), and a dentist! Our following morning was devoted to visit the Cordoba highlands at Pampa de Achala, known for having a number of interesting species, 2 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

3 including three endemic furnariids, and several other isolated populations of Andean species. We spent a good portion of the morning in the highlands, with lovely weather. In the attractive mountains of Cordoba we found not only the three endemics (Cordoba and Olrog s Cinclodes, and Cordoba Canastero), but also our first Brushland Tinamou, several Andean Condors, a Black-chested Buzzard- Eagle, a nice flock of Grey-hooded Parakeets, huge flocks of White-collared Swifts, impressive male Red-tailed Comets, Campo Flickers, several White-winged Cinclodes, a single Brown-capped Tit- Spinetail, a friendly Olive-crowned Crescentchest, dozens of Chiguanco Thrushes, Southern Martins and Blue-and-white Swallows, Blue-and-yellow Tanagers, Black-capped Warbling-Finches, and a great duo formed by Plain-coloured and Band-tailed Seedeaters. We then decided to visit a new locality and spent most of the afternoon in the hot lowlands, chasing some important Chaco birds. Before going down, however, we also recorded several Sedge Wrens, some Plumbeous Sierra- Finches, and many Long-tailed Meadowlarks. In the lowlands, after leaving behind the breathtaking views from the heights, we endured the heat and saw some very important species, including amazing and long scope views of the weird Spot-winged Falconet, a flock of Blue-crowned Parakeets, a pair of White-fronted Woodpeckers, a pair of Crested Horneros, two Tufted Tit- Spinetails, a Pale-breasted Spinetail, a curious Chaco Earthcreeper, our first of a series of canasteros (Short-billed), a lovely Lark-like Brushrunner, several very responsive pairs of Brown Cacholotes, highly responsive pairs of Scimitar-billed and Narrow-billed Woodcreepers, a cute Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, two Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrants, a friendly pair of Greater Wagtail-Tyrants, and the first White-tipped Plantcutters of the trip. By then, it was getting late and we had to drive almost three hours to get back home; the following day was going to be another busy one. The following morning we drove north towards the Salinas Grandes, one of the largest salt plains in Argentina. We headed straight to the edge of the salt lake and after a few minutes we were rewarded with two Salinas Monjitas, the bird we had come to see and the main target of the day. We then had plenty of time to explore the nearby Chaco woodlands. The weather, however, was unpleasant, as the hot winds made it almost unbearable at times. We knew, however, that this was our only and best chance for several bird species, restricted to the Dry Chaco. Enduring the weather we concentrated and finally found most specialities close to the road, including our first Striped Cuckoos, a fantastic Crested Gallito, a pair of an undescribed species of tyrannulet (formerly considered as Grey-crowned), a Southern Scrub-Flycatcher, a few Patagonian Mockingbirds (which hold an isolated population in the area), several Stripe-crowned Sparrows, many Chaco Warbling-Finches, the beautiful Many-coloured Chaco-Finch and a single Red-pileated Finch. An immature Savanna Hawk that we encountered was a good write-in. It was getting late, and the weather made us retreat to our bus, as the sand blown by the hot wind was becoming a painful experience. Back in our lovely hotel at Icho Cruz, we decided to use our afternoon and following morning near town to visit the backgrounds of a nearby hotel, were we found our first Aplomado Falcon, a most wanted Chaco Puffbird, several Stripe-crowned Spinetails, White Monjitas, Tawny-headed Swallows, and the very vocal and handsome Golden-billed Saltator. After two rather long but productive days, our time in Cordoba was reaching its end, and we headed back to the Pampas. After a short flight back to Buenos Aires, and a second short visit to Costanera Sur, we headed towards the heart of the Pampas: San Clemente del Tuyu. Along the road, while driving miles and miles of endless pampas, we spotted several Southern Screamers, Roseate Spoonbills, Maguari Storks and a couple White-tailed Kites. The following morning we were to work the pampas. In general we had a lovely day exploring mudflats, marshes, tussock grasses, reeds, and the ocean beach at Punta Rasa. Highlights of that day included up to 80 Swainson s Hawks in austral migration, the local Baycapped Wren-Spinetail, several lovely Warbling Doraditos, and amazing scope views of Hellmayr s Pipit. Along the ocean we also found a great array of seabirds and shorebirds, including Great Grebes, Chilean Flamingos, American, Grey, Semipalmated, and Two-banded Plovers, dozens of 3 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

4 American Oystercatchers, Hudsonian Godwits, Ruddy Turnstones, Red Knots, Sanderlings, Whiterumped and Baird s Sandpipers, and a single and very surprising Snowy Sheathbill, well beyond its normal range for the time of the year. An extension we accepted with joy! Terns and gulls were also abundant, including large numbers of both immature Olrog s and Kelp Gulls, Grey-hooded and Brown-hooded Gulls, and Common, South American, Sandwich, Royal and Snowy-capped Terns, all of which allowed close views while flocks of Black Skimmers skimmed the nearby Ocean. The following morning we headed towards a typical Estancia near San Clemente. We were all feeling a bit down, having left behind two of our most beloved participants: Nancy and Al, who following the doctor s recommendation decided to give Argentina some time and take care of Pneumonia in the brave lungs of Nancy. It wasn t easy to continue our saga feeling totally happy, as we knew the many cool birds that were waiting for us ahead. At the Estancia we found our first Greater Rheas and Spotted Nothuras, as well as a small flock of Buff-breasted Sandpipers, a bird that seems to be in decline in its wintering grounds in Argentina. We also had the most definitive views on the lovely Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, and saw small numbers of Barn Swallows, and a displaying male Correndera Pipit. That was our very last day in the heart of the pampas and the following day we were to have a long drive towards Bahia Blanca, with a single bird in mind: the threatened and very local Pampas Meadowlark. The long drive to Bahia Blanca was not devoid of birds; along the road we saw our first Chiloe Wigeons, a few White-cheeked Pintails, and amazing numbers (in the thousands) of Brown-hooded Gulls. Before arriving in Bahia Blanca we were welcomed with large numbers of Burrowing Parakeets, as if showing that we were leaving the Pampas and getting into new territory. Early morning, we moved out of Bahia Blanca looking for our target, which involved a lot of Long-tailed Meadowlark watching. Eventually, after some search, we found a large flock of displaying Pampas Meadowlarks, with about 25 individuals and enjoyed excellent scope views of this rare bird. We also were greeted by our first (of very many) Elegant Crested-Tinamous, a few Cinereous Harriers, a single Red-backed Hawk, and some nice Wilson s Phalaropes swimming in a pond. By then our time in the pampas was over, and we drove south towards San Antonio Oeste in northern Patagonia. Before heading south, however, we made a quick stop near Bahia Blanca, where we finally got astonishing views of several adult Olrog s Gulls and great studies of Sharp-billed Canastero, White-winged Mockingbird, and a pair of Firewood-gatherers, responding to tape near their bulky nest. The following days were devoted to a habitat called Monte desert, which is a habitat considered endemic to Argentina. As we drove south, we saw the landscape changing from luxuriant green pampas to dusty and dry Monte. By the end of the day and after a long drive, we finally got into the right habitat and walked through the vegetation which was hiding some important birds. Unfortunately, the wind was fierce and birds were hard to see. Among those birds that defied the wind and were seen that afternoon were the near-endemic Black-crowned Monjita, several Mourning Sierra-Finches, and many Common Diuca-Finches. Our most desired bird of that afternoon, however, the Yellow Cardinal, did not cooperate, and although we came back to that spot on the following day, it became our first bad dip of the trip. The following morning, weather conditions were excellent, and we had a great morning at Las Grutas, where we found a further near-endemic, Hudson s Black-Tyrant, which we saw displaying and vocalizing at close range, and by having White-winged Black-Tyrant nearby we could make the most definitive comparisons. Other important birds we had that morning included a Scale-throated Earthcreeper, two Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetails, White-crested Elaenia, White-crested Tyrannulet, Yellow-billed and Tufted Tit-Tyrants, and a single Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant. Before leaving Las Grutas we paid a visit to the seashore and found several Crested Ducks along the shore. 4 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

5 It was time to move on and continue south towards Peninsula de Valdes, which is certainly one of the most spectacular places in South America. Not only is the birding great, but also the abundance of large mammals makes it very special. We drove the entire length of the Peninsula, where we had one of our most spectacular days of the trip. Birding was great: Lesser Rheas (and their chicks) abounded, loads of Elegant Crested-Tinamous, Tawny-throated Dotterels were on the move, a Common Miner showed up, a pair of Lesser Shrike-Tyrants appeared, several Patagonian Yellow- Finches put up a special show for us, and of course, one of our most desired birds: the Rusty-backed Monjita was in the bag after a couple of hours on the road. Along the coast, birds were also plentiful and we had good numbers of Magellanic Penguins, Antarctic and Hall s Giant-Petrels, Black-browed Albatrosses, and very large numbers of Manx Shearwaters, Imperial and Rock Shags, and Blackish Oystercatchers. The concentrations of seabirds and Southern Elephant Seals were spectacular, and that is not to mention our friendly Large Hairy Armadillo, the Argentinean Grey Fox, and the many Patagonian Maras and Guanacos that run through the plains. Late in the afternoon, after such an overdose of wildlife, we sailed the seas in search of Southern Right Whales, which seek the calm waters of the Golfo Nuevo to give birth. The weather was getting bad, and after some chatting with the boat owner, he let us embark on a boat for ourselves. The boat trip was spectacular, and as soon as we started the sail, the sun came out and the scenery became unforgettable. A mother whale and its calf were really close to the boat, and we spent a full hour watching these mighty beats breathing and moving under the water; an experience that many of us will find hard to forget. The following morning we set out towards Punta Tombo, a place that boasts the largest concentrations of penguins outside Antarctica. Over a million!! Our first duty, however, was to find two birds that were making us nervous. We could not leave this area without the Band-tailed Earthcreeper (also known as Eremobius) and the endemic Patagonian Canastero. We found both species on the way, and although it took us several stops in the right habitat, eventually, we had the most fantastic views of those two important creatures. Only then, we could start thinking about penguins and other birds. In Punta Tombo we quickly found not only hundreds of penguins but also a few Chubut Steamerducks (another Argentinean endemic), while Antarctic Skuas patrolled the penguin colony for an unattended chick. On our way out to the airport, near Trelew, we paid a quick visit to the now famous black-water lagoons, which are filled with thousands of ducks. In less than an hour we counted 150 Coscoroba Swans, 150 Chilean Flamingos, 250 Chiloe Wigeons, 50 Yellowbilled Pintails, 100 Red Shovelers, and many other creatures, including a few Silvery Grebes, and the only four Cinnamon Teals we were going to find during our trip. It was time to leave northern Patagonia behind and face the deep south. In Ushuaia we met Esteban, our local guide who was going to join us for a few days. After a quick farewell, he left us at our fancy hotel late at night, and during shower time, eager birdquesters facilitated my job, as they saw piles of lifers from the very grounds of our hotel. Those goodies included Upland, Kelp and Ashy-headed Geese, Flightless Steamer-Duck, Black-faced Ibis, Magellanic Oystercatcher, Dolphin Gull, Patagonian Cinclodes, Austral Negrito, and Chilean Swallow. And birding started at 9pm! On the following day we visited Tierra del Fuego National Park. Given the great success of the previous night, I needed to do some magic in order to cheer up the group. Birds were not very active that morning, but after a few hours, we added several good birds to our list, including Austral Parakeets, Thorn-tailed Rayaditos, White-throated Treerunners, White-crested Elaenias, Fire-eyed Diucons, Austral Thrushes, Black-chinned Siskins, Patagonian Sierra-Finches, and Austral Blackbirds, all of which posed for nice scope views. Our most wanted bird for that morning, however, was elusive, and started to bring some worries about dipping on the magnificent Magellanic Woodpecker. We changed some of our plans, and stayed longer in the park than we usually do and even went back on the following morning, but our search for the woody was unproductive, as the bird would not appear. It was indeed too risky to leave Tierra del Fuego without it, and relying on a single day at Los 5 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

6 Glaciares, but after hours and hours of searching, it was what we had to do! That afternoon we made a visit to the Martial Glacier. Our main target, of course, was the rare and seldom seen White-bellied Seedsnipe, a bird we had encountered in the two previous tours to the region. Luck was not on our side that day, but we still had some good birds that made the entire climb worthwhile. A friendly Yellow-bridled Finch showed very well; above timberline we also recorded both Dark-faced and Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrants. Both species were very tame, and were even photographed at close range. The weather started to deteriorate and we got some thin snow above the timberline. The following day, after a second visit to the park (no woodpecker recorded) we sailed the Beagle Channel. The scenery was magnificent, having Chile on our right and Argentina on the left. The sea was calm, consequently pelagic birds were not very active. Penguins and shags, however, were in the hundreds. Chilean Skuas, Black-browed Albatrosses, and both Common and Magellanic Diving- Petrels were also there. A nice surprise was to have a Wilson s Storm-Petrel very close to the boat. We also found several Snowy Sheathbills around the sealion colonies, and were delighted to see that the small colony of Gentoo Penguins was still there: 22 adult birds in total. That was our last day in Ushuaia, and with our fresh memories of many great birds we headed towards the village of Rio Grande, in northern Tierra del Fuego, looking for natural Patagonian Grasslands. A quick stop at the Ushuaia dump rewarded us with a few White-throated Caracaras. On our way out, however, I noted the presence of a bird I have never seen before. We were all astonished when we realized that we had a Striated Caracara sharing the dump with Dolphin and Kelp Gulls. A lifer for me, and a very rare sight in continental South America. Full of confidence, we continued our trip north, and made an important stop at the Paso Garibaldi, knowing that was our last chance for the seedsnipe. We had a tough climb ahead, and after an hour we got above the timberline and spent almost three hours searching for our beast. We found its droppings, and the place looked just perfect, but that wasn t enough to find this elusive creature. On the way back we were rewarded with excellent views of two Austral Parakeets and a Chilean Hawk. It was time to continue our journey and gave our farewell to a bird that rated among our most wanted ones. Once in Rio Grande, and before even checking-in to our nice hotel, we found several Least Seedsnipes and the lovely Rufous-chested Dotterel on a disturbed grassland near town. The following day was devoted to the Southern Patagonian grasslands, our main target being the rare and endangered Ruddy-headed Goose. We found a number of great birds, including Peregrine Falcons, the fuegian race of South American Snipe, both Common and Short-billed Miners and Grey-hooded Sierra-Finches, and we had spectacular views of two very important creatures, the Patagonian endemics Austral Canastero and Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant, both of which put on a special and private show for us. The geese were elusive, and after many female Upland, we finally put our eyes on a lovely pair Ruddy-headed. As I mentioned during the trip, once you see one, there is no doubt. We had the most amazing and prolonged views of this bird, that is under severe decline in continental South America. A last stop gave us a huge flock of Sooty Shearwaters, which were cruising the seas in the distance. We were happy fellows, and went back to the hotel to have a great dinner. The following day was a long one, as we had to drive from Rio Grande to Rio Gallegos. It was a nice road, and we saw thousands of flamingos along the way. While crossing the Strait of Magellan we were rewarded with at least three Commerson s Dolphins and close-up views of many giant petrels. Close to Rio Gallegos we drove along a poorly-travelled road and in a couple of hours we found two important birds: the first Chocolate-vented Tyrants of the trip and two Black-throated Finches, a restricted-range and seldom seen bird species. 6 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

7 From Rio Gallegos we started our Patagonian adventure searching for two mega lifers. Our main targets were the Hooded Grebe and the Austral Rail, but we had to drive a long distance to have a shot with any of them. It was definitely a long day, and unfortunately the best present we could give to John on his birthday was the beautiful scenery and three new mammals for the trip, which included Dusky Dolphins, Humboldt s Hog-nosed Skunk, and the much wanted Pichi! It was quite late when we arrived in La Angostura, an old Patagonian estancia were the Austral Rail had been rediscovered by a team of Argentinean ornithologists only a few years ago. After a fantastic meal with very tender lamb and superb Merlot, we went to sleep with a single hope: no wind on the following day! The Gods were on our side, probably because it was my birthday, and on the following morning the weather was lovely, an important condition to succeed with the rails. Hearing them was easy, but seeing the birds was another matter. After an hour, most of us had decent views of this elusive species, which was lost to science for almost half a century and believed to be extinct by many. A party of brave birdquesters wanted to get better views, especially Gwen, who saw nothing of our previous bird. We ventured into the marshes, and on our way we flushed a Striped Owl, which gave astonishing views. We located another two rails, but the best views were obtained by Allie, who stayed behind without rubber boots or even tape. When she saw us getting into the cold water, she said: I will stay here, as I am sure the bird will show up. And sure enough, she had the best views of a calm Austral Rail walking in the open. With the rail in the bag, we were ready for our next quest. Our minds were on the Hooded Grebes, our last mega species of the trip, and possibly the hardest of them all. Before leaving the Estancia, however, Mr. Antonio, the owner, asked us whether we wanted to see Magellanic Horned Owls. Yep, we said, and a few minutes later, he drove us to a roost only two kilometres from his house. We had the most definitive views a human being may want of a bird like that. Two birds at less than 20m, right there in the open! Our happiness lasted a few minutes, as once we were on the move again, we could only think grebes! Hooded Grebes have been very naughty in recent years, often changing lagoons and moving to those more isolated waters, many of which are impossible to reach in a car. Our first shot was a lagoon near the Estancia, but it was a disappointment, as the four grebes that were found by Mr. Antonio a week earlier were not there. We saw hundreds of grebes, but all of them were Silveries. Great creatures, but not the right ones! We then decided to give a try to some very isolated lagoons, despite the fact that Mr. Antonio had told me that the grebes have not been found there on the previous week. I was expecting the worst, but after all, that day was my birthday A two hour drive took us to a series of lagoons, and after eight tries we found a single Hooded Grebe in one of them. Almost a miracle, and a single bird was more than enough. Although it was getting late, I suggested that we should continue a bit further, and another five or six lagoons later, we found Eden. The first one to see it was Andy, who called us in despair. A single small lagoon had 22 birds, which were diving, singing, mating and displaying. For over an hour we delighted ourselves watching these amazing creatures, discovered as recently as the late 70s! At that stage we were satisfied; all our senses had one of its greatest days. The loneliness, the wind, and the scenery were just superb. Definitely the best day of the trip for many of us. On the way out, we even had time to find a couple of Cordilleran Canasteros, and a Grey-breasted Seedsnipe with its young. We were happy folks, life was good and the scenery was outstanding. The last part of the trip was to get to El Calafate and visit the amazing scenery of one of Argentina s most spectacular National Parks. On our last day, after having a great sleep and relaxed night, filled with the greatest Argentinean red wine, we visited Los Glaciares National Park, an amazing place that harbours the famous Perito Moreno glacier. After our previous day, we were confident, but we realized that it was our last chance for THE woodpecker. The day started slowly, and bird activity was poor. Alejandro and I were praying for some action, and eventually, on our fifth stop we got a couple of great birds: three 7 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

8 Rufous-tailed Plantcutters and five Chilean Flickers. It was as if the day started there, and soon after birds started to show up. We found an entire family of Spectacled Ducks, an elusive species often missed. Then, we had the most amazing views of a family of Magellanic Tapaculos, but our big prize, the Magellanic Woodpecker, was not there. We played tape, we walked, and asked everyone where on earth that beast was seen on that given day. Time was running out. Gwen was already planning a new trip to Patagonia on the following year! But a final miracle was still cooking In the meantime, we delighted ourselves with the majestic view of the glacier. On the way out, we decided to make a final stop in search of the pecker. Nada. Its signals were everywhere, as we could see the action of these beasts on almost every log in the forest, but not the bird itself. When all of us were on the bus ready to leave, Alejandro told me that he thought he had heard something. I went down (and everyone followed me), for the final try. Nada again. Suddenly, I thought of imitating a pygmy owl, and after 10 whistles a fantastic female Magellanic Woodpecker flew straight into us and perched at less than 10m from our eyes. Miracles do happen in Patagonia!! We did not want anything else in life and went straight back to El Calafate. We knew, however, that we had one last bird to look for, and sure enough, three Magellanic Plovers were at the shores of Lago Argentino, representing our last lifer of the trip. A bird with a family of its own: Pluvianellidae! Lifer for all members of the party. The nearby Reserva Natural Laguna Nimez gave us great looks at a wide assortment of waterbirds, including dozens of Andean Ducks and many Cinereous Harriers. Our trip was reaching its end. The weather was nice and birds were tame. And we were very happy. All of a sudden, many memories came to us, including the hot winds we faced in Cordoba while searching for the Salinas Monjita, the cold blizzards above the timberline while watching two species of ground-tyrants in Tierra del Fuego, the fiercest winds while getting overwhelmed by the beauty of the Hooded Grebes, and so many other birds that we saw in the previous three weeks. For a moment, Nancy and Al were there too, watching the plovers with us, and satisfied by our hard working adventure in the wildest regions of the wildest continent on earth. Our trip to Argentina was reaching its end. 8 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

9 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). RHEIDAE Greater Rhea Rhea americana: Great views on several occasions in the pampas. Lesser Rhea Pterocnemia pennata: Beautiful views of many, many birds in Peninsula de Valdes, as well as in Santa Cruz. As you know, males take care of the eggs and young, and in fact we had several encounters with desperate fathers with up to 15 little rheas running for their lives. Bear in mind that the northern race P. p. tarapacensis, is sometimes considered a separate species, based in morphology, plumage, and biogeography. In that case, the Patagonian, and nominate, form would become Darwin s Rhea. TINAMIDAE Tataupa Tinamou Crypturellus tataupa(h): A single bird heard calling in Cordoba s lowlands. Red-winged Tinamou Rhynchotus rufescens(h): Two birds heard along the road in the heart of the pampas, near Bahia Blanca. Brushland Tinamou Nothoprocta cinerascens: Up to four birds seen and heard at very close range in Icho Cruz. Andean Tinamou Nothoprocta pentlandii(h): Two birds heard near our hotel in Cordoba. Darwin s Nothura (Darwin s Tinamou) Nothura darwinii(h): A few birds heard in northern Patagonia, one of which at very close range. Despite our efforts no birds were located. Spotted Nothura (Spotted Tinamou) Nothura maculosa: Specially abundant in the pampas, where we managed to get good scope views of two of them. Elegant Crested-Tinamou Eudromia elegans: A very common creature in northern Patagonia, and specially abundant in Peninsula de Valdes, where we had brilliant views. Eight races are found in Argentina; we found the nominate form in SW Buenos Aires and Rio Negro and the race patagonica in Chubut and Santa Cruz. ANHIMIDAE Southern Screamer Chauna torquata: Fantastic views on several occasions in the pampas. DNA studies of the Anseriformes show that they are closely related to the Ratites (rheas and tinamous) and Cracids (guans), hence their new placement in the taxonomic sequence. ANATIDAE Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor: Good numbers in Costanera Sur and other lagoons in the pampas. White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata: Especially abundant in the pampas and Costanera Sur. Black-necked Swan Cygnus melanocorypha: Many sightings of these handsome creatures at Costanera Sur, the pampas, and Patagonia. Coscoroba Swan Coscoroba coscoroba: Another handsome bird, relatively abundant in Argentina, especially at Costanera Sur and the pampas. Upland Goose Chloephaga picta: One of the most common birds of southern Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, and often remarkably tame. Kelp Goose Chloephaga hybrida: Great views in Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel, where we saw the dark females, the white males, and some immatures with black wings. Ashy-headed Goose Chloephaga poliocephala: Certainly the smartest of the geese. Pretty common in southern Patagonia. 9 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

10 Ruddy-headed Goose Chloephaga rubidiceps: After an entire day searching for these creatures, we found a pair near Rio Grande. Later we found three more birds in Santa Cruz. Their numbers have been declining dramatically in recent years due to habitat conversion in northern Patagonia, and possibly the introduction of Grey Fox in the island of Tierra del Fuego. Recent surveys suggest that as little as 1000 birds may be present in continental Patagonia. Brazilian Teal (Brazilian Duck) Amazonetta brasiliensis: We found a pair in Costanera Sur and a second one in Otamendi. Flightless Steamerduck Tachyeres pteneres: Common around Ushuaia and along the Beagle Channel. They proved to be flightless by not flying at all! Another more scientific feature is the female s orange beak and their very short wings, easily seen when preening. Chubut Steamerduck (White-headed Steamerduck) Tachyeres leucocephalus: Wonderful views of at least two pairs at Punta Tombo. This Argentinean endemic was described as recently as the early 80s. Although some authors consider it conspecific with the Falkland s Steamer Duck, recent genetic data suggest that this may indeed be a good species. Flying Steamerduck Tachyeres patachonicus: Relatively abundant in southern Patagonia. Crested Duck Anas specularioides: Very abundant in Patagonia, specially common along sea shores. Spectacled Duck Speculanas specularis: Fantastic scope views of a party of six in a little pond in Los Glaciares National Park. We had to wait until they would move to make sure they were not decoys planted by Alejandro for our joy! Chiloe Wigeon (Southern Wigeon) Anas sibilatrix: A common duck in Patagonia. Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris: Seen in large numbers throughout Argentina. Note that two different forms occur in the country; the widespread flavirostris, that we have seen in Buenos Aires and Cordoba, and oxyptera, a form restricted to the highlands of north-western Argentina (and the one you may have seen in Bolivia or Peru). There aren t known intermediate forms, and these two subspecies may well be considered two biological species, based on morphology and biogeography. Yellow-billed Pintail (Brown Pintail) Anas georgica: Seen in large numbers during the trip. White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis: A few birds seen well in small lagoons in the southern pampas and another two spotted in the pristine waters of the Trelew sewage. Yummy! Silver Teal Anas versicolor: Seen in decent numbers during the tour. Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera: Only four birds seen on the trip, in the same pristine waters of Trelew. Red Shoveler Anas platalea: Seen on several occasions, from the pampas to El Calafate. Possibly the most abundant duck during the trip. Rosy-billed Pochard Netta peposaca: A lovely duck seen in several occasions during the tour. Black-headed Duck Heteronetta atricapilla: Great views of several pairs in Costanera Sur. This retiring species is a brood parasite, laying its eggs in the nests of other species, mainly coots. Andean Duck (Andean Ruddy Duck) Oxyura ferruginea: Excellent views in southern Patagonia. Close range views at Laguna Nimez, near El Calafate, where we could safely tell them apart from the following species based on female morphology, head shape, and behaviour. Lake Duck Oxyura vittata: Seen well at Costanera Sur and again at Laguna Nimez. PODICIPEDIDAE White-tufted Grebe Rollandia Rolland: A common inhabitant of the pampas. This year, however, we only recorded decent numbers (about 50 birds) in our second visit to Costanera Sur. Surprisingly absent elsewhere. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps: A couple of record in the pampas. 10 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

11 Great Grebe Podiceps major: Great views of this attractive grebe on many occasions (and I am not counting Graham s dead bird in Costanera!). We saw a very active pair building one of its typical floating nests in Tierra del Fuego. Silvery Grebe Podilymbus occipitalis: Small groups on several occasions in the south, but especially abundant in the first lagoon we inspected looking for the Hooded Grebes. Although they were not their pretty cousin, those grebes are also very beautiful, and they were doing impressive displays at the lake. Note that in central and southern Argentina we observed the nominate form, different from the form juninensis, that inhabit the highlands of northwestern Argentina and the puna. These two races probably represent two good biological species, based on morphology, seasonal behaviour, vocalizations, and biogeography (different habitat and no sympatric populations). Hooded Grebe Podilymbus gallardoi: This species is certainly one of the most desired birds of Argentina, and for some of us, the bird of the trip! It took us a couple of hours to locate a lagoon with them in Santa Cruz, but once we did For me, who saw these birds in several occasions in the past, this represented the most especial sight I have ever had on them. Birds were close, and were very active, singing, displaying, and even copulating in front of our eyes! After such an adventure we came to understand how such an amazing species was unknown to science until 1974! It is simply in the middle of nowhere. SPHENISCIDAE Gentoo Penguin Pygoscelis papua: Good views of 22 adults at the recently-established breeding colony (since 1999) at LA Pinguinera, near Estancia Harberton. Magellanic Penguin Spheniscus magellanicus: Great views of these delightful birds at the enormous colony of Punta Tombo, where up to a million birds congregate each year to breed. Also seen in Peninsula Valdes and in the Beagle Channel. DIOMEDEIDAE Black-browed Albatross Diomedea melanophris: The most abundant albatross near the shore in the South Atlantic. Fewer birds than usual on the Beagle Channel, but hundreds near Rio Grande. PROCELLARIIDAE Antarctic Giant Petrel (Southern Giant Petrel) Macronectes giganteus: Very abundant in Peninsula Valdes, and along the Beagle Channel. Especially great were the close views of several birds while crossing the Strait of Magellan in Chile. Hall s Giant Petrel (Northern Giant Petrel) Macronectes halli (NL): Three birds were seen in Peninsula de Valdes by Andy (and others?), where they managed to see the reddish tip on its massive bill. Otherwise, this and the previous species are very, very similar. But apparently are reproductively isolated by place and timing of breeding. Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus: Up to a hundred birds seen in the distance near Rio Grande. Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus: Huge flocks seen in the distance in Peninsula de Valdes, where we estimated at least 500 birds. Wilson s Storm petrel Oceanites oceanicus: A single bird seen swimming next to the boat in the Beagle Channel. Quite a rare sight near the coast, although according to Dr. Tebb this is the most abundant bird species on earth. PELECANOIDIDAE Common Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides urinatrix (NL): Two different birds were seen by some on the Beagle Channel that represented this widespread species (which in the south Atlantic is rarer than the following species). 11 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

12 Magellanic Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides magellani: Only three birds seen during the boat trip along the Beagle Channel, one of which allowed good views both on the water and in flight. PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant (Olivaceous Cormorant) Phalacrocorax brasilianus: The most common cormorant in the country. Many encounters throughout Argentina. Rock Shag (Rock Cormorant) Phalacrocorax magellanicus: Good views of small numbers on several occasions at Valdes, Punta Tombo, and Tierra del Fuego National Park. Especially abundant along the Beagle Channel, where we found a large breeding colony on a cliff. Imperial Shag (Imperial Cormorant) Phalacrocorax atriceps: Small numbers in Valdes and Punta Tombo, but thousands at the breeding colonies of the Beagle Channel. The vast majority were of the black-cheeked form albiventer (also known as King Cormorant), although a few white-cheeked individuals (known as Blue-eyed Cormorants) representing the form atriceps were present at the colonies at the Beagle Channel. At present the two forms are considered conspecific by most authors, a view I personally endorsed. However, detailed molecular studies throughout the range of both forms is still needed to solve the question. ARDEIDAE Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum: At least two different birds were recorded at close range in Costanera Sur. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Few individuals seen both in the pampas and Patagonia. The ones in the pampas were typical individuals of the hoactli race, whereas those in the south belonged to the subspecies obscurus, which is larger and darker, with smoky-brown underparts. Great views of this one in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. Striated Heron (Green-backed Heron) Butorides striatus: Seen in small numbers during the trip. Remember that this species has been split from the North American counterpart, The Green Heron Butorides virescens. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Very abundant in the pampas, mostly around cattle. Amazing to think that this species reached Argentina as recently as 1969! Cocoi Heron (White-necked Heron) Ardea cocoi: Seen in small numbers during the trip, mostly in Costanera Sur and the pampas. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: Seen in small numbers during the trip. Not as common in Patagonia as in northern Argentina. Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix: Several birds recorded in the pampas. Snowy Egret Egretta thula: Seen in good numbers throughout Argentina. THRESKIORNITHIDAE White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi: Impressive numbers in the pampas. Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus: Five birds seen in Otamendi, which were the only ones seen during the trip. Black-faced Ibis Theristicus melanopis: Lovely views of this species. Common in Patagonia and often remarkably tame. Note that in the past, this and its northern counterpart (Theristicus caudatus) were considered different races of a single species. Northern birds, however, have greyish, not black, bellies. Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja: Relatively abundant in the Pampas, where we saw up to 50 birds in a single day. 12 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

13 CICONIIDAE Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari: Several birds seen in the pampas; being especially abundant on the route from San Clemente to Bahia Blanca. CATHARTIDAE Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura: Seen throughout Argentina. Black Vulture Coragyps atratus: Small numbers in the pampas and Cordoba. Andean Condor Vultur gryphus: We first encountered this superb species in the Sierras of Cordoba, and then we saw more in Santa Cruz and Tierra del Fuego, including scope views of both adults and juveniles. PHOENICOPTERIDAE Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis: Several groups seen in different regions of Argentina, from Punta Rasa to Patagonia, including several greyish immature birds, but also some very colourful adults (as pink as they get!). ACCIPITRIDAE White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus: A couple of records in the pampas. Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis: Reasonable numbers in the pampas. Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus: Many encounters throughout the trip. A very handsome species, whose juveniles gave us some headaches for a while. Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni: Many great sightings of this delightful and smart harrier in the pampas. We were lucky enough to find both dark and white morphs during the trip. Bicoloured Hawk Accipiter bicolor: Great and long detailed scope looks of this species in Tierra del Fuego. Also known as Chilean Hawk; the Patagonian form represents the subspecies chilensis, sometimes considered a distinct species, a view I support, based on biogeography and plumage. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus: A single bird recorded in Cordoba, and then several in southern Patagonia. Certainly a very handsome and impressive creature. Savanna Hawk Heterospizias meridionalis: A single bird recorded briefly in the Salinas Grandes, and a much expected write-in. Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris: Very few birds of this species throughout the trip. Very common further north, but scarce in the south. Those that knew this species from northern South America have probably found the southern race very different. Swainson s Hawk Buteo swainsoni: We found up to 80 individuals in Punta Rasa, an obvious flock in migration. Every year this species arrives in large flocks from the northern hemisphere, but is not a common sight in the region visited by our tour. Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma: A few encounters in Patagonia, including a nesting pair in Santa Cruz. FALCONIDAE White-throated Caracara Phalcoboenus albogularis: As we were suppose to, we found several birds in the rubbish dump near Ushuaia. A bird that otherwise is hard to find in the circuit we do in Argentina. Striated Caracara Phalcoboenus australis: This one was a total surprise for me. A very smart and rare creature, commonly seen in the Islas Malvinas (sorry, don t remember the English name of those islands ). We found a single immature perched quietly in the Ushuaia dump. Apparently, there is a single resident population in Argentina (apart from Malvinas, of course), where you can see this species, but you will need eight days on horse back to get there Pretty lucky indeed (and a lifer for me, cheers!). 13 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007

14 Southern Caracara Polyborus plancus: Seen in large numbers throughout Argentina. Note that this represents the nominate form of the previous enlarged Crested Caracara. Also note that the genus Polyborus has been changed to Caracara in the recent literature. Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango: Seen almost every day. There is a famous pampas saying: it s not worth wasting your gunpowder on chimangos Wonder why. Spot-winged Falconet Spiziapteryx circumcinctus: Amazing scope views of this very interesting bird in Cordoba, where we had one bird perched for about an hour. The evolutionary history of this species is still unresolved. Morphological and some DNA data (mitochondrial genes) place this monotypic genus with other falcons, whereas recent nuclear data (DNA obtained from nuclear genes) suggest that this genus may be more closely related to the Caracarini, which includes caracaras and chimangos. American Kestrel Falco sparverius: Small numbers during the trip. Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis: Several birds well seen during the trip. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: Very nice views of two birds flying over us in Peninsula de Valdes, and then in Tierra del Fuego, near Rio Grande. At least two different forms occur in Argentina, a migratory one that comes from the Northern Hemisphere (tundrius) and the resident cassini, which were the ones we found in Patagonia. ARAMIDAE Limpkin Aramus guarauna: Small numbers in Costanera Sur and Otamendi. RALLIDAE Austral Rail Rallus antarcticus: Up to three birds were detected in a small patch of reeds in La Angostura. After some efforts, most of us (Sorry Gwen!) had pretty good views of this very rarely seen species. It is worth remembering the great views Allie had while the rest of us were immersing ourselves in the reeds looking for a better view. Cheers for her! This species was lost to science for about 50 years, it was considered extinct by many. In the late 90s a group of Argentinean ornithologists rediscovered it at the very same spot where we saw them. Now that we know its voice, records are appearing all over the place, including Chile and Peninsula de Valdes. Giant Wood-Rail Aramides ypecaha: Great scope views of three birds in Ribera Norte and Otamendi. Grey-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea: Up to three birds seen and heard in Ribera Norte, at the southern limit of its distribution, where both species occur. Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius: We recorded up to five birds at Ribera Norte, and eventually had good views of at least two different individuals. Red-and-white Crake Laterallus leucopyrrhus: Oh, what a great and most welcomed write-in. We were particularly lucky with this rare and seldom seen species, as a bird decided to walk right in the open in front of our astonished eyes in Otamendi. Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus: Great views at Ribera Norte and Cordoba. Common Moorhen (Common Gallinule) Gallinula chloropus: Amazingly absent this year, as we only saw a single bird in Ribera Norte. If a friend of mine would have mentioned such low numbers, I would have accused him immediately of severe blindness. Incredible. Red-gartered Coot Fulica armillata: Relatively rare in the pampas but abundant in Patagonia. Red-fronted Coot Fulica rufifrons: A couple of birds seen on each visit to Costanera Sur. Otherwise, surprisingly scarce this year. White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera: Definitely, the most abundant coot of the trip, especially in Costanera Sur, where we saw our first birds. 14 Birdquest: Southern and Central Argentina 2007