NAMIBIA & THE OKAVANGO TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 NAMIBIA & THE OKAVANGO 9 26 NOVEMBER 2011 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DEREK SCOTT Once again, the Birdquest tour to Namibia and the Okavango was a great success. Our epic journey of 4,727 km through this fascinating region lived up to all expectations, and was remarkably trouble free, thanks to the excellent condition of the roads, superb accommodation and very friendly and helpful service. Although we were a couple of weeks later than usual, the rains had still barely begun and we had little heavy rainfall until the last week, and even then it did not hamper our birding. It was still very dry in the west and we had temperatures as high as 40.0 C in the north-west, but it was unusually windy and surprisingly cool along the coast. Our total bird list of 401 species was not particularly high, but this was mainly because we missed a few widespread species that were unaccountably absent this year, notably Shikra, Gabar Goshawk, Lanner Falcon and Spotted Thickknee. On the other hand, we did well with the Namibian and Okavango specialities, missing little of note. Highlights included Rockrunner and Layard s Titbabbler at Namibgrens, Herero Chat at Spreetshoogte Pass, Burchell s Courser, Dune Lark and Gray s Lark in the Namib Desert, Damara Tern at Walvis Bay, White-backed Night-Heron, Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush and Cinderella Waxbill along the Kunene River, Slaty Egret at Onesi Dam, Harlequin Quail, Blue Crane, Bronze-winged Courser and Burchell s Sandgrouse at Etosha, Lesser Moorhen, Sharp-billed Honeyguide and Rufousbellied Tit near Rundu, Rufous-bellied Heron and Wattled Crane in the Mahango Game Reserve, Western Banded Snake-Eagle, Pel s Fishing Owl and Brown Firefinch at Nxamaseri, and Hartlaub s Francolin in the Erongo Mountains. We also found a few scarce migrants in Namibia including European Honey-Buzzard, Pectoral Sandpiper and Black-winged Pratincole. As always, the tour produced an impressive selection of mammals: 46 species in all, including seven Black Rhinoceros, four Roan, eight Sable, two Aardwolves, four Lions, three bands of Suricates (Meerkats) and a Black Mongoose. We began our tour very gently, with an afternoon stroll in the bush by the Avis Dam, only a few hundred metres away from our pleasant little guest house on the outskirts of Windhoek. Here we quickly found an excellent assortment of the commoner bush birds, including Red-billed Francolin, Grey Go-away-bird, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Purple Roller, Groundscraper Thrush, Chestnut-vented Titbabbler, African Wren-Warbler, Black-chested Prinia, Marico Flycatcher, Pririt Batis, Marico, Scarlet-chested and Dusky Sunbirds, Green-winged Pytilia, Blue and Black-faced Waxbills, and Pin- 1 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

2 tailed and Shaft-tailed Whydahs. There were also a few waterbirds about, despite the many dogwalkers, and these included a Kittlitz s Plover and a few Three-banded Plovers. A short walk near the guesthouse early the next morning was also very rewarding, producing two Bradfield s Swifts, a Eurasian Golden Oriole, a pair of Ashy Tits, a Yellow-bellied Eremomela, a Brown-crowned Tchagra and a little colony of Lesser Masked Weavers, as well as our first of many White-backed Mousebirds, African Hoopoes, Grey-backed Camaropteras, Rattling Cisticolas and Violet-eared Waxbills. Before heading off south, we called in at Windhoek s excellent sewage works and quickly found the local speciality two pairs of White-throated Swallows along with a wide assortment of waterbirds including a Great White Pelican, 12 African Darters, 12 South African Shelducks, four Southern Pochards and an African Purple Swamphen. Smaller birds included a very obliging Diderick Cuckoo, our first Acacia Pied Barbet, several African Reed Warblers, two African Pipits, at least 2,000 Wattled Starlings and a little group of Southern Red Bishops. As always, the sewage works had a surprise in store this time in the form of a European Honey-Buzzard, a very scarce migrant in Namibia and a write-in for our tour. Leaving Windhoek behind, we drove southwest through increasingly arid bush and semi-desert to Namibgrens Guest Farm in the Khomas Highlands, stopping several times on the way and finding a good selection of birds including Common Buzzard, Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Alpine Swift, Monteiro s Hornbill, Sabota Lark, Grey-backed Sparrowlark, Short-toed Rock-Thrush, Mountain Wheatear, Southern Ant-eating Chat, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Long-billed Crombec, Desert Cisticola, Chat Flycatcher, Common Fiscal and Sociable Weaver. We arrived at our guest farm with plenty of time to explore the garden where we found a pair of Pearl-breasted Swallows, six Karoo Scrub-Robins, a few Great Sparrows and lots of Black-throated Canaries. A short walk along the edge of the nearby hills produced a Rockrunner our first of the Namibian specialities as well as a female Pygmy Falcon, a Layard s Titbabbler, a Long-billed Pipit, a couple of Cape Buntings and about ten Rock Dassies. Before breakfast the next morning, we had a quick look at the small dam near the farm and here we found a large number of waterbirds including a flock of 26 Great White Pelicans, 30 South African Shelducks, 10 Cape Teal, 40 Red-billed Teal, two Cape Shoveler, 12 Maccoa Ducks, lots of Kittliz s Plovers and a few Black-winged Stilts. From Namibgrens it was only a short drive to Spreetshoogte Pass, where we hoped to find the scarce and local Herero Chat. It was quite cold and breezy at the top of the pass and there was little about, but as we descended and it began to warm up, birds began to appear. These included a huge male Ludwig s Bustard flying over, a pair of Augur Buzzards, another Long-billed Pipit, a pair of colourful Bokmakieries and a few Cape Buntings. However, the Herero Chat was, as usual, proving elusive and it was not until we had almost reached the bottom of the pass that a pair finally appeared. Fortunately, these responded beautifully and we had exceptionally close views. We stopped briefly at the bottom of the pass to admire a pair of Lesser Striped Swallows, and then made a short detour to call in at the café and services at Solitaire where, over coffee and cakes, we were able to enjoy extremely close views of Sociable Weavers, Cape Sparrows, Red-headed Finches and Lark-like Buntings at the bird bath and under the picnic tables. Then it was time to head off on the long drive through the Namib Desert to Walvis Bay. The vegetation along the desert edge was in fairly good shape and there were quite a few birds about, including a large group of Ostriches with their young, several Black-shouldered Kites, a little party of three Rüppell s Korhaans, four Karoo Long-billed Larks, three Karoo Chats, a pair of Scaly-feathered Finches, a White-throated Canary and lots of Lark-like Buntings, as well as a herd of 27 Mountain Zebra and two little bands of Suricates (Meerkats). In an area of red sand dunes, we were able to entice a pair of Dune Larks into view, and at our shady lunch stop in Gaub Canyon, we were entertained by several remarkably tame Pale-winged Starlings. Later, as we headed west across the barren plains towards Walvis Bay, we stopped to tramp around in a patch of stony desert, and here we found an unusually obliging Gray s Lark, along with several little flocks of Stark s Larks, three 2 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

3 Spike-heeled Larks, a couple of Tractrac Chats and a pair of Double-banded Coursers with a chick. We arrived at Walvis Bay in time for a quick look at the bay from the esplanade, but the tide was high and there was little to be seen other than lots of Hartlaub s Gulls, a few Cape Gulls and the odd Common Tern. We began the next day with a short stroll along the esplanade and watched in awe as flock after flock of Cape Cormorants flew into the bay to feed. There were thousands of waders about, along with good numbers of Great White Pelicans and terns, mostly Common but with some Sandwich and Swift. A small flock of Crowned Cormorants flew in, and amongst the many Hartlaub s Gulls, we spotted a Grey-headed Gull. However, there were only about 30 Greater Flamingos to be seen, the great majority having gone off to breed somewhere. Land-birds were scarce, but a quick look in the parks and gardens produced a pair of Orange River White-eyes along with a few Speckled Pigeons, Cape Wagtails, Cape Sparrows, Southern Masked Weavers and Common Waxbills. After a pleasant breakfast overlooking the bay, we spent the rest of the morning checking through the large flocks of waterbirds in the bay and on the adjacent salt pans. Notable finds included at least 500 Black-necked Grebes, 50 White-fronted Plovers, two Chestnut-banded Plovers, three Terek Sandpipers, 25 Marsh Sandpipers, thousands of Curlew Sandpipers, hundreds of Little Stints, 18 Red-necked Phalaropes, 10 Pied Avocets, 20 Caspian Terns and three Damara Terns. We ended up at the ocean beach for lunch, and here a short sea-watch produced a White-chinned Petrel, five Sooty Shearwaters and 20 Cape Gannets, as well as about ten Cape Fur Seals. In the afternoon, we drove north to Swakopmund, stopping on the way to look at some guano platforms, but these seemed to be falling into disrepair and there were relatively few birds about. At the extensive salt-works north of Swakopmund, we found three Lesser Flamingos with a small flock of Greater Flamingos, five African Black Oystercatchers, lots more waders and terns, including three more Damara Terns and a White-winged Tern, and huge numbers of Cape Cormorants. We ended the day scoping the stone pillars at the mouth of the Swakop River, hoping to find a Bank Cormorant, but it was very windy, there were lots of people about and there were no cormorants to be seen. We were on our way fairly early the next morning on the 480-km drive to Rustig Toko Lodge near the west end of Etosha National Park. Our first few stops were in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis, and here we found a pair of Burchell s Coursers, about 60 Namaqua Sandgrouse and more Stark s Larks, Gray s Larks and Tractrac Chats, as well as our first Black-backed Jackal and another little band of Suricates. As we were approaching Uis, we came across a couple of Benguela Longbilled Larks by the roadside, and at our lunch stop at the Ugab River, an African Hawk-Eagle flew over and we found our first African Grey Hornbills, Carp s Tits, Black-backed Puffbacks, Brubrus and Southern White-crowned Shrikes. We arrived at Rustig Toko Lodge in late afternoon, still with plenty of time to explore the grounds of the lodge and nearby bush, and here we found our first Rüppell s Parrots, Bare-cheeked Babblers, White-tailed Shrikes and Golden-breasted Buntings, along with some very tame Monteiro s Hornbills, several Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills and a migrant flock of Common House Martins. After dinner that evening, we boarded the lodge s safari bus and headed out onto the plains on a two-hour night drive. This turned out to be even better than anticipated. Mammals included two fabulous Aardwolves, a comical Springhare, a couple of Scrub Hares and three Giraffes, while the birds included a superb Marsh Owl sitting on the track and no less than 16 Rufous-eared Nightjars. Another short walk around the lodge the next morning produced a Black Cuckoo, a pair of Damara Hornbills, a pair of African Wren-Warblers, our first Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, a Chestnut Weaver and a Yellow Canary. Well pleased with our short stay at Rustig Toko Lodge, we left soon after breakfast and drove quickly north to the Kunene River on the Angolan border, stopping briefly on the way to look at a Rufous-naped Lark singing from a fence post and an assortment of raptors including 3 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

4 an immature Martial Eagle, a large group of White-backed Vultures, a Brown Snake Eagle and a Greater Kestrel. Just before reaching the Kunene River, we stopped for our picnic lunch at a small stream where Cinderella Waxbills have been found in the past. There were no waxbills about today, but we did find an elusive Greater Painted-Snipe, an African Paradise-Flycatcher, a pair of Redheaded Weavers and a few Cinnamon-breasted Rock Buntings. From our lunch stop to Kunene River Lodge was only about 45 km, but most of this was on an atrocious dirt road with some serious obstacles, notably a steep rock climb and a couple of deep fords. The rock climb required all passengers to get out and push (not much fun, with the temperature at 36.0 C) and the deepest ford took away our front number plate, but fortunately, those parts of the minibus that mattered held together and by mid-afternoon we had arrived at our lovely little lodge on the banks of the Kunene River and were ready for a cold beer. After settling in, we had a short stroll in the garden and quickly found several of the Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrushes that breed here, as well as a party of six Red-necked Spurfowl, a pair of African Mourning Doves, a pair of Spectacled Weavers at their nest and lots of noisy Yellow-bellied Greenbuls. There was a little troop on Vervet Monkeys in the garden, and in one of the outbuildings we found an Angolan Epauletted Fruit Bat hanging from the rafters. We ended the day relaxing on the decking over the river, looking across to Angola and watching an assortment of birds flying back and forth, including two Goliath Herons, a flock of Black-crowned Night-Herons, a White-backed Night-Heron, a Dwarf Bittern and our first African Fish Eagle. We began the next day with an early morning session on the veranda followed by a walk round the garden. There were plenty of birds about including several Black Crakes and a couple of Giant Kingfishers off the veranda, 30 Rosy-faced Lovebirds flying out of their roost in the palms on the opposite bank, a pair of Rüppell s Parrots in a fruiting fig tree, an African Scops-Owl at its day roost outside Peter s bungalow, a little group of Red-faced Mousebirds, a small party of Madagascar Beeeaters, a pair of Violet Woodhoopoes responding well to playback, several noisy pairs of Swamp Boubous and a pair of Golden Weavers at their nest. In mid-morning, Peter took us off in his pickup truck to look for Cinderella Waxbills in the nearby hills. On the way, we spotted a Bennett s Woodpecker, which responded well to playback, and found a little group of Double-banded Sandgrouse and a pair of Crowned Lapwings by the roadside. A short drive up a side valley brought us to a small stream, and here within minutes we had found a pair of Cinderella Waxbills which stayed around long enough for all of us to get good views. We found at least three more Cinderellas nearby, along with a Pearl-spotted Owlet, a Common Scimitarbill, a Greater Honeyguide, a Cardinal Woodpecker, an African Golden Oriole, a pair of Carp s Tits, about 20 Chestnut Weavers and lots of Red-billed Quelea, while a Booted Eagle appeared high overhead. Well pleased with this little excursion, we returned to the lodge for lunch and a short siesta a rare treat on this tour. The river was quite high and that evening we were able to indulge ourselves in a sundowner cruise up river on Peter s custom-built motorized drinks platform. The cruise began with close views of a very large Nile Crocodile, which lunged into the water just alongside the boat, followed by superb views of a Verreaux s Eagle Owl sitting high up in a tree in the evening sunshine. We flushed an adult Whitebacked Night-Heron from its roost, a Little Sparrowhawk flew over the river, there were several pairs of Water Thick-knees on the riverbank and we heard an African Barred Owlet calling in the woodland on the Angolan side of the river. Other nice birds included several very confiding Little Bee-eaters and Wire-tailed Swallows in the overhanging vegetation and three African Pied Wagtails on the rocks. Not wishing to destroy our minibus completely by returning the way we had come, we had decided to take the long route back to Ruacana via Opuwo. As this would add over 200 km to the journey, we had to leave Kunene River Lodge soon after breakfast the next morning. The drive to Opuwo, on an excellent dirt road, produced our first Black-headed Herons, good views of an African Hawk-Eagle and a few more Rüppell s Parrots and Madagascar Bee-eaters, but was otherwise uneventful. We 4 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

5 managed to get a new front number plate for the minibus, along with an excellent cup of coffee, in Opuwo, and then drove quickly back north to Ruacana and east towards Ondangwa, where we were to spend the night. The drive was relatively uninteresting, as we passed through one of the most densely populated regions in Namibia, but on the way we stopped at Onesi Dam where we found a great selection of birds including a Black Egret, our first of several Slaty Egrets, three Glossy Ibises, 20 African Pygmy Geese, three African Snipe, four Yellow-billed Oxpeckers and about 20 African Quail Finches, along with two Hamerkops, an Osprey, 20 African Jacanas, another Greater Painted-Snipe and our first Malachite Kingfisher and Lesser Swamp Warblers. Also on this drive we came across our first African Openbills and Yellow-billed Kite. Eager now to get to Etosha National Park, we left Ondangwa immediately after breakfast the next morning on the relatively short drive to the northern (King Nehale) entrance to the park. On the way, we paused to check out some saline lagoons and here we found a little group of five Black-winged Pratincoles and four Pink-billed Larks. Other birds at the lagoons included four Southern Pochard, a Black Kite, another Osprey, two Chestnut-banded Plovers, lots of Red-capped Larks and Grey-backed Sparrowlarks, and half a dozen Red-breasted Swallows. A little farther along, we stopped in the grassland to look at a couple of Eastern Clapper Larks, and then after passing through the gate, we began our leisurely drive through the park. Our first stop was in the open grassland on Andoni Plain, where we found about 20 Blue Cranes, and soon after we spotted a Bronze-winged Courser resting in the shade of an acacia by the roadside. A visit to Tsumcor waterhole produced our first African Elephant, and nearby we saw our first of many Red-crested Korhaans lurking in the bushes. We called in at Namutoni Lodge for a picnic lunch at the waterhole, and here we found masses of waterbirds including two Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, yet another Greater Painted-Snipe and a large mixed flock of Whiskered and White-winged Terns. We spent the afternoon driving slowly west along the south side of the pan to Okaukuejo, visiting several of the waterholes and stopping many times to enjoy the abundant big game, mostly Burchell s Zebra, Blue Wildebeest and Springbok, but with smaller numbers of Giraffe, Red Hartebeest, Steenbok, Black-faced Impala, Gemsbok and Greater Kudu. We found a few more African Elephants at the waterholes, but the mammalian highlight of the afternoon was definitely the two Black Rhinoceroses that we came across. One was far away, walking through the open grassland, but the other was close to the road in open bush and gave superb views. We also saw many of the park s characteristic larger birds, including a Secretarybird, several Tawny Eagles, a Greater Kestrel, a dozen Kori Bustards and three Northern Black Korhaans. Smaller birds included good numbers of European Bee-eaters, a Capped Wheatear, our first of many Lesser Grey Shrikes, a little group of White-crested Helmetshrikes and many thousands of Red-billed Quelea. Unusually, much of the eastern part of the pan was flooded, but the water was some way off and although we could see that large numbers of birds were present, all we could make out in the heat haze were several flocks of Greater Flamingos, Pied Avocets and Black-winged Stilts and a group of 17 Marabou Storks. We rounded off the day watching a procession of birds and mammals coming in to drink at the waterhole at Okuakuejo, including over 200 Double-banded Sandgrouse which arrived just as it was getting dark. We visited the waterhole again after dinner and were rewarded with great views of four more Black Rhinoceroses in the floodlights. Next morning before breakfast, we drove a few kilometres out from the camp to an area of low scrub where Rufous-eared Warblers can often be found, and sure enough, after a little perseverance, we eventually had great views of one of these delightful little warblers. On the plains north of the camp, we found several more Greater Kestrels, a Harlequin Quail, lots more Northern Black Korhaans, several pairs of Double-banded Coursers, some very obliging Spike-heeled Larks and large numbers of Chestnut-backed and Grey-backed Sparrowlarks, along with a Cape Fox, several Black-backed Jackals and a family of Yellow Mongooses. Before leaving Okaukuejo, we had one last look at the waterhole and found a very tame African Cuckoo in the compound. We then spent the rest of the day 5 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

6 driving slowly back to Namutoni via Halali camp, calling in at a number of waterholes on the way. The birding and game viewing were excellent, with highlights including three Bateleur circling over the plains, four Swainson s Spurfowl sheltering under a bush, a pair of Southern White-faced Scops- Owls with a juvenile in the trees at Halali, and four very close Lions a lioness and a young male at one waterhole and two young males near another. There were lots of birds at Namutoni waterhole that evening, including two Greater Painted-Snipe, an African Snipe, a Grey-headed Gull and thousands of Red-billed Quelea flying in to roost in the reed-beds, and just as it was getting dark, a Black Rhinoceros came trundling in for a drink We spent most of the next day exploring the eastern section of the park out of Namutoni. After checking Namutoni waterhole and the compound at first light, we did a pre-breakfast trip to Klein Namutoni waterhole and Dik-dik Drive, and then after breakfast, we drove north to Tsumcor waterhole and round the Stinkwater Loop, which provided relatively close views of the flooded section of the pan. After lunch back at the lodge and another session at Namutoni waterhole, we had a pleasant drive around Fischer s Pan via the Twee Palms. The birding was excellent, with highlights including a pair of Lappet-faced Vultures (surprisingly the only ones of the tour), a pair of Whiteheaded Vultures, a Red-necked Falcon in the compound at Namutoni and another at the Twee Palms, and three Burchell s Sandgrouse at Tsumcor waterhole. Other additions to our list included Senegal Coucal, Fawn-coloured Lark, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Burnt-necked Eremomela and Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah. There were large numbers of waterbirds at the waterholes and on the edge of the pan, and these included two Lesser Flamingos, 25 Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, a pair of South African Shelducks, 20 Cape Teal, half a dozen Cape Shoveler, a flock of 125 Grey-headed Gulls and a flock of 150 Whiskered and White-winged Terns. Much to our amazement, amongst the small waders at Namutoni waterhole, we found two Pectoral Sandpipers a very long way from their normal wintering area in South America. Dik-Dik Drive lived up to its name and produced a total of 16 Damara Dik-Diks; we had brief views of a Spotted Hyaena at Klein Namutoni waterhole, and we saw our first Warthog, but we failed to find any more lions and the African Elephants had vanished, presumably because of the onset of the rains. In late afternoon we left the park, but not without adding one more mammal to our list an Eland that ran across the road in front of us as were approaching the park gate. Our home for the night was at Onguma Bush Camp, a pleasant lodge on the eastern boundary of the park. Here we found a Crested Francolin foraging in the garden and watched a Verreaux s Eagle Owl in the spotlight as we were having dinner. A short walk in the bush the next morning produced a little party of Southern Pied Babblers, another Eurasian Golden Oriole and four White-crested Helmetshrikes, but we did not dally as we had a long drive ahead of us to Rundu on the Okavango River. Soon after leaving, we had great views of an adult Martial Eagle perched by the roadside and we began to encounter large flocks of Common Swifts, arriving with the rains. We broke our journey at Roy s Camp in the bush north-east of Grootfontein, and here we found a family party of five Black-faced Babblers, as well as another small party of Southern Pied Babblers. By mid-afternoon, we had reached the miombo-like woodland characteristic of Namibia s north-eastern border regions, and shortly before arriving at Rundu, we stopped for our first foray into this interesting habitat. It was still very hot and the birding was quiet, but we managed to find a few birds including a Sharp-billed Honeyguide, a Pale Flycatcher, a couple of Amethyst Sunbirds, a pair of African Yellow White-eyes and three Yellow-fronted Canaries. We arrived at our lodge on the banks of the Okavango River still with plenty of time to explore the extensive garden, and here we found an excellent selection of birds including our first Red-eyed Doves, a Senegal Coucal, a pair of Terrestrial Brownbuls, a couple of Kurrichane Thrushes, our first White-browed Robin-Chats and a pair of Yellow-breasted Apalises. 6 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

7 Early the next morning, after a quick look at a party of Arrow-marked Babblers just outside our rooms, we drove out to Rundu sewage works, formerly one of the birding hot-spots in the north-east but sadly now much reduced in size. Fortunately, there was still plenty of water in the main lagoons and a good selection of birds. These included a vagrant Lesser Moorhen, six Hottentot Teal, four Comb Duck, a pair of Jacobin Cuckoos, two Coppery-tailed Coucals, a flock of Blue-cheeked Beeeaters, our first Hartlaub s Babblers, a Sedge Warbler, two Red-backed Shrikes, a Magpie Shrike and four Fan-tailed Widowbirds, as well as three Hamerkops, three Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, a pair of Cape Shovelers, 50 Yellow-billed Kites, a Common Buzzard, three Greater Painted Snipe, an African Snipe and a flock of 15 Shaft-tailed Whydahs. After breakfast back at the lodge, we set off for Divundu at the west end of the Caprivi Strip. Much of the forest between Rundu and Divundu has been cleared within the last decade, but there are still a few patches remaining and we stopped at several of these in the hope of finding some of the rarer inhabitants of this habitat. There were hundred on Yellow-billed Kites about, but it was now very hot and the birding was tough. We managed to pick up a few new species, including a very demonstrative pair of Striped Kingfishers, a Southern Black Tit, a pair of Southern Black Flycatchers and our first Violet-backed Starlings, and we had great views of a party of White-crested Helmetshrikes, a species that does not seem to mind extreme heat. Soon after leaving Divundu, we stopped at a stretch of rapids along the Okavango where we found our first Hippopotamuses, three Rock Pratincoles and a large party of Magpie Shrikes, and while we were watching these, a Wahlberg s Eagle appeared overhead in its display flight. It was then only a short drive to Ndhovu Lodge, a beautiful tented camp overlooking the river. The extensive grounds of the lodge held plenty of birds including about 20 Meyer s Parrots, a Klaas s Cuckoo, a noisy pair of Woodland Kingfishers, a large party of Green Woodhoopoes and more Hartlaub s Babblers, but the best birding came later as we sat on the decking with a beer in hand and watched a succession of birds flying up and down the river. These included a Slaty Egret, 10 Yellowbilled Egrets, two Yellow-billed Storks, a flock of White-faced Whistling-Ducks, about 150 Comb Ducks, over 250 Spur-winged Geese, 12 Long-toed Lapwings, 25 White-winged Terns and six African Skimmers. Hundreds of Yellow-billed Kites and Common Swifts passed by overhead, a group of Hippos snorted and splashed about in the river, and a family of Warthogs and two Bushbucks grazed on the opposite bank. Finally, just as it was getting dark, a pair of African Wood Owls appeared in the trees above us. We were out on the veranda again early the next morning to watch sunrise over the river. Several large flocks of White-faced Whistling-Ducks, Comb Ducks and Spur-winged Geese passed by, along with a Rufous-bellied Heron, two Eurasian Hobbys and an African Wattled Lapwing, while in the garden we had great views of a Levaillant s Cuckoo and had our first glimpses of a White-browed Coucal. As we were leaving the lodge after breakfast, we had great views of a Bradfield s Hornbill in the bush by the entrance road, but there was little moving in the woodland along the main road and so we continued without delay to the Mahango Game Reserve on the Botswana border. In the game reserve, the birding was as good as ever, with new additions to our list including six Woolly-necked Storks, an African Sacred Ibis, three pairs of Wattled Cranes (including one with a juvenile), four Collared Pratincoles, four Southern Carmine Bee-eaters, four White-fronted Bee-eaters, a pair of Black-collared Barbets and a Crested Barbet. Other birds of note included two Goliath Herons, another Rufous-bellied Heron, a Swainson s Spurfowl, four African Wattled Lapwings, eight Longtoed Lapwings, three Coppery-tailed Coucals, another Bradfield s Hornbill, four Southern Black Tits and lots of Lesser Grey and Red-backed Shrikes, while mammals included four Roan, eight Sable, 20 African Buffalo, another Bushbuck, 50 Reedbuck, six Waterbuck and 30 Red Lechwe. Crossing the border into Botswana was quick and easy, and then it was only a short drive to the pick-up point for Nxamaseri Lodge in the Okavango Panhandle. We arrived at the designated spot (marked by a totem pole!) in the early afternoon and then, after leaving our minibus in the care of an elderly old lady in a small hut, we set off with our driver/guide Adam in a pickup truck. After a very bumpy 30-minute 7 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

8 drive through the bush, we finally arrived at the edge of the Okavango floodplain and here we transferred to a little boat for the short trip out through the swamp to Nxamaseri Lodge a delightful little lodge set on a small wooded island surrounded by unspoiled floodplain. After giving us a couple of hours to settle in and enjoy tea and cakes on the veranda, Adam took us off in the boat for a quiet potter downstream to the main channel of the Okavango. There were lots of birds about and our tally in this first afternoon included a Slaty Egret, a Little Bittern, another pair of Wattled Cranes, two pairs of Water Thick-knees, three Greater Swamp Warblers, our first Chirping Cisticolas, a dozen Thickbilled Weavers and lots of Village Weavers and Southern Brown-throated Weavers at their breeding colonies. Later that evening, Adam took us out on the river again, this time to look for the special bird of this area the mighty Pel s Fishing Owl. Adam certainly knew what he was doing, and within about 20 minutes we were enjoying superb views of an adult Pel s Fishing Owl sitting in a clump of trees by the river, only a few hundred metres from the lodge. Well pleased, we set off back and at the very next clump of trees found a juvenile Pel s sitting high up on an exposed branch. Not wishing to disturb the owl unduly, we soon left it where it was and headed back for dinner, well pleased with our day s work. Our full day at Nxamaseri began with a session on the veranda overlooking the floodplain, and then we spent much of the day on the river, with a trip up the main channel of the Okavango in the morning and a trip downstream in the evening. The main objective of the morning s excursion was to visit a colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters in a red sand cliff about 50 minutes (at high speed) up the Okavango, and this did not disappoint, as we had superb views of about 40 of these colourful bee-eaters at their colony. The birding was excellent and our day s tally included an impressive assortment of waterbirds including 50 Reed Cormorants, 200 African Darters, two Goliath Herons, 60 Purple Herons, two Slaty Egrets, 200 Squacco Herons, a Rufous-bellied Heron, a White-backed Night-Heron, two Little Bitterns, at least 120 African Openbills, a pair of Saddle-billed Storks, 100 White-faced Whistling-Ducks, and dozens of kingfishers of four species (Pied, Giant, Malachite and Woodland). Other birds of note along the river included a Western Banded Snake Eagle, at least 20 African Fish Eagles (many of which gave extremely close views), ten African Green Pigeons, three Coppery-tailed Coucals, lots of Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, half a dozen White-fronted Bee-eaters, two Sand Martins with a large concentration of Barn Swallows and Brown-throated Martins, several more Chirping Cisticolas and four Pin-tailed Whydahs. A stroll in the lodge garden in mid-afternoon was also very rewarding, producing a Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, several Golden-tailed Woodpeckers, four Collared Sunbirds and a little party of Brown Firefinches, as well as a pair of Black-collared Barbets, a pair of Cardinal Woodpeckers, a pair of Terrestrial Brownbuls and more Hartlaub s Babblers. The main objective of the evening s boat trip was simply to enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the Okavango panhandle as the sun went down. With storm clouds gathering all round, we were treated to sunset of extraordinary beauty, and as we headed back to the lodge at dusk, we came across another adult Pel s Fishing Owl at the water s edge a great ending to a wonderful day. Before breakfast the next morning, we had one last walk in the garden and found a pair of Ashy Flycatchers, along with a White-browed Coucal and a Crested Barbet. The journey back to the main road by boat, pickup truck and lodge minibus took longer than expected, as we kept stopping to look at birds: three more Slaty Egrets, two young Yellow-billed Storks feeding with one wing extended, 20 Collared Pratincoles, a Broad-billed Roller and a group of five Yellow Wagtails, amongst many others. We also saw an immature Little Tern a very strange bird to find here in the middle of Southern Africa. It was 10:00 am before we finally got away in our own minibus and we stopped a couple of times on the way to the Namibian border for our first Mosque Swallow and a very elusive Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike, but there was still time for another drive round the loop in the Mahango Game Reserve. Raptors were much in evidence and included a White-headed Vulture, at least 200 Yellow-billed Kites, two Tawny Eagles, 10 Steppe Eagles, a Lesser Spotted Eagle, two 8 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

9 Bateleur, six African Fish Eagles, our one and only African Marsh Harrier and two Ospreys. Other birds of note included a flock of 70 African Openbills soaring high in the sky, a Marabou Stork, another Klaas s Cuckoo and, at long last, an obliging Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike that gave great views. Our drive back through the teak woodland to Rundu that afternoon produced little other than two Dark Chanting Goshawks, a pair of Red-chested Cuckoos and another African Golden Oriole, and we arrived at Kavango River Lodge on a bluff overlooking the river in plenty of time to enjoy one last sunset over the Okavango. As we sat on the veranda watching flock after flock of Western Cattle Egrets passing by on their way to roost, an African Rail put in a brief appearance in a small marsh almost directly below us, and we saw yet another Slaty Egret and four African Skimmers fly by We had another session on the veranda early the next morning and found about 120 Little Grebes on the river below us presumably migrants on their way to somewhere as well as a Eurasian Hobby, two Mosque Swallows and our first Icterine Warbler. Well pleased with this brief transit stop in Rundu, we set off on the long drive to the Erongo Mountains near Omaruru. A short stop in the teak forest south of Rundu proved to be very worthwhile, as we found a family party of Rufous-bellied Tits and three Yellow-throated Petronias, and had our best views yet of Pale Flycatcher and Yellowfronted Canary, but otherwise there was little to be seen on the journey and by late afternoon we had arrived at the very pleasant Erongo Wilderness Lodge. After settling in, we still had time for some birding amongst the rocks, and here we quickly found a very responsive pair of Hartlaub s Francolins a speciality of this area as well as our only Peregrine Falcon of the trip. Rock Dassies were everywhere and remarkably tame, and just as it was getting dark, two Freckled Nightjars came flying by. Later, as we were having dinner, a Small-spotted Genet put in a brief appearance at the floodlit waterhole. We were up early the next morning to watch a procession of birds coming in to the bird table just outside the restaurant. These included about 40 Rosy-faced Lovebirds which posed beautifully for photographs, a couple of Monteiro s Hornbills and a fancy male Violet-backed Starling. There were several Dassie Rats running about amongst the rocks and a Black Mongoose appeared briefly at the waterhole. After breakfast, one of the local guides Heidi took us to a Verreaux s Eagle nest, but the chick had long since left the nest and the eagles were nowhere to be seen. However there were plenty of other birds about, including an Augur Buzzard and three Carp s Tits, and on the way back to the lodge we spotted two Klipspringers the last addition to our mammal list. The journey back to Windhoek was uneventful, and after a final picnic lunch at the Avis Dam, we pottered along to the airport for the long flight home, at the end of another great tour to Namibia and the Okavango. 9 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

10 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). STRUTHIONIDAE Common Ostrich Struthio camelus: We encountered our first, a large group of adults and juveniles, in the desert en route to Walvis Bay and then saw about 15 at Etosha. PODICIPEDIDAE Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis: Great views of at least 500 in the Walvis Bay area, including many birds in their smart breeding plumage. This species winters here in very large numbers but most have usually left by the time we arrive. Little Grebe (Dabchick) Tachybaptus ruficollis: Good numbers at freshwater wetlands throughout. PROCELLARIIDAE White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis: Very distant views of a single bird off the ocean beach at Walvis Bay. Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus: Five off the ocean beach at Walvis Bay. PELECANIDAE Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: A lone bird at Gammans sewage works in Windhoek, a flock of 26 on the dam at Namibgrens and at least 100 in the Walvis Bay area. SULIDAE Cape Gannet Morus capensis: About 20 passing by off the ocean beach at Walvis Bay and one off the beach at Mile-four Saltworks. Most were immature birds. PHALACROCORACIDAE White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus: Two at the Avis Dam, two at Gammans sewage works, over 40 in the Walvis Bay area and two at Onesi Dam. Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis: Vast numbers in Walvis Bay and along the coast. There were rather few on the guano platforms north of Walvis Bay, but huge numbers on the platforms at Mile-four Saltworks. Reed Cormorant (Long-tailed Cormorant) Phalacrocorax africanus: Twenty at Gammans sewage works in Windhoek and common in freshwater habitats in the north. Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus: Good views of about 15 from the esplanade in Walvis Bay, but none at the guano platforms, which seem to be falling into disrepair. ANHINGIDAE African Darter Anhinga rufa: A dozen at Gammans sewage works in Windhoek, four along the Kunene River, two at Onesi Dam and good numbers along the Okavango, especially at Nxamaseri, where we recorded as many as 200 in a day. ARDEIDAE Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Ones and twos recorded on a number of occasions throughout the tour. Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala: First encountered on the drive to Ondangwa and then seen in small numbers on several occasions in and around Etosha National Park and at Kavango River Lodge. 10 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

11 Goliath Heron Ardea goliath: Three along the river at Kunene River Lodge, two in the Mahango Game Reserve and two along the river at Nxamaseri. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: One at Gammans sewage works, a couple at Onesi Dam and at least 60 along the river at Nxamaseri. Great Egret (Great White Egret) Egretta alba: Two at Gammans sewage works and fairly common along the Okavango in the north-east. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Small numbers at wetlands throughout the tour. Yellow-billed Egret (Intermediate Egret) Egretta intermedia: About 10 over the river at Ndhovu Lodge, up to 10 in the Mahango Game Reserve and one over the river at Kavango River Lodge. Black Heron (Black Egret) Egretta ardesiaca: Only one this year a single rather distant bird in flight over Onesi Dam. Slaty Egret Egretta vinaceigula: This was a very good year for this rare and local species, with several great sightings beginning with a bird at Onesi Dam. We then went on to see about six individuals by the river and on the floodplain at Nxamaseri and a single bird over the river at Kavango River Lodge. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: First encountered at the sewage works in Windhoek, where there were at least 100, and then seen commonly in the north. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: Four at Gammans sewage works, one by the Kunene River, six at Onesi Dam, one at Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park, and then common in the wetlands in the north-east, especially along the river at Nxamaseri. Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola rufiventris: Great views of a bird flying down river at Nhovu River and another in the marshes in the Mahango Game Reserve. We also had brief views of a couple along the river at Nxamaseri. A good showing for a species that can be very elusive. Green-backed Heron (Striated Heron) Butorides striatus: Two at Gammans sewage works, a couple by the Kunene River and small numbers along the Okavango. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Six at Gammans sewage works, a party of nine at Kunene River Lodge, four at Onesi Dam and good numbers along the Okavango. White-backed Night-Heron Gorsachius leuconotus: One seen going to and from its roost across the river from the Kunene River Lodge and another bird flushed from its day roost during our sundowner cruise up river from the lodge. We also saw an adult flying in to roost in a large tree overhanging the river at Nxamaseri. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus: One at Gammans sewage works and three along the river at Nxamaseri. The subspecies involved is payesii which breeds in sub-saharan Africa. Dwarf Bittern Ixobrychus sturmii: Brief views of one flying over the river and into the shrubbery at Kunene River Lodge. SCOPIDAE Hamerkop Scopus umbretta: One by the Kunene River, two at Onesi Dam, three at Rundu sewage works, one in the Mahango Game Reserve and three or four at Nxamaseri. CICONIIDAE Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: Great views of a party of six in an area of recent flooding in the Mahango Game Reserve. African Openbill (African Open-billed Stork) Anastomus lamelligerus: First encountered in small numbers on the drive to Ondangwa and then seen commonly in wetlands in the northeast. The largest concentrations were a roost of about 120 in a tall tree downstream from Nxamaseri Lodge and a spiralling flock of about 70 in the Mahango Game Reserve. Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis: Good flight views of a pair over the marshes downstream from Nxamaseri Lodge. 11 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

12 Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus: Distant views of a flock of 17 at Etosha Pan, close views of a single bird at Klein Namutoni waterhole and distant views of a soaring bird in the Mahango Game Reserve. Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis: A couple over the river at Ndhovu Lodge, a couple in the Mahango Game Reserve and a couple on the floodplain near Nxamaseri Lodge. THRESKIORNITHIDAE African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus: A distant bird in the Mahango Game Reserve on our first visit. This is a surprisingly scarce bird in Namibia. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: Good views of a group of three in the marshes at Onesi Dam. PHOENICOPTERIDAE Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber: Surprisingly scarce in the Walvis Bay area; we saw only a few hundred and most were very distant. The great bulk of the population had presumably moved to Etosha Pan to breed. We saw big flocks in the distance at Etosha and had a single close bird at the waterhole at Namutoni. Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor: Good views of three with a small flock of Greater Flamingos at Mile-four Saltworks near Swakopmund, and distant views of two at Etosha Pan. ANATIDAE White-faced Duck (White-faced Whistling-Duck) Dendrocygna viduata: First seen over the river at Ndhovu Lodge and then found commonly in the Mahango Game Reserve and at Nxamaseri. Fulvous Duck (Fulvous Whistling-Duck) Dendrocygna bicolor: Great views of up to four at Namutoni waterhole, at least 20 at Klein Namutoni waterhole and three at Rundu sewage works. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus: Present in small numbers at most of the wetlands that we visited. Our highest count was 100 at Gammans sewage works in Windhoek. South African Shelduck Tadorna cana: Good views of a dozen at Gammans sewage works, 30 at the dam at Namibgrens, a pair at the dam near the Ugab River and a pair at Klein Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park. Cape Teal Anas capensis: Ten at the dam at Namibgrens, a couple at Mile-four Saltworks, about 20 at waterholes in Etosha National Park and two at Rundu sewage works. Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota: Good views of half a dozen at Rundu sewage works. Red-billed Teal (Red-billed Duck) Anas erythrorhyncha: Six at Gammans sewage works, 40 at the dam at Namibgrens, three on the dam near the Ugab River, large numbers at waterholes at Etosha, 50 at Rundu sewage works, 15 over the river at Ndhovu and a few in the Mahango Game Reserve, but none in Botswana. Cape Shoveler Anas smithii: Good views of a pair on the dam at Namibgrens, six at the waterholes at Namutoni and a pair at Rundu sewage works. Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma: Good views of four males at Gammans sewage works, about 20 at the waterholes at Namutoni, a lone female at Rundu sewage works and a couple over the marshes at Nxamaseri. African Pygmy Goose Nettapus auritus: Somewhat distant views of 20 in the floating weed at Onesi Dam a regular site for this species. Comb Duck (Knob-billed Duck) Sarkidiornis melanotos: Four on one of the lagoons at Rundu sewage works, at least 150 over the river at Ndhovu Lodge and a single bird in the Mahango Game Reserve. 12 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

13 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis: At least 250, mostly flying up river, at Ndhovu Lodge, about 20 on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve on both our visits, and at least 30 on the flooplain at Nxamaseri. Maccoa Duck Oxyura maccoa: Excellent views of a loose party of 12 on the dam at Namibgrens. This certainly was a good year for ducks. SAGITTARIDAE Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius: Superb views of a single bird foraging in the grassland in Etosha National Park. ACCIPITRIDAE White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus: Noticeably scarce this year. After a circling group of about 20 on the drive north from Kamanjab, the only birds we saw were half a dozen in Etosha National Park and two in the Mahango Game Reserve. Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus: Also remarkably scarce this year. We saw only a single pair on our third day at Etosha. White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis: Brief views of a pair over the waterhole at Namutoni and slightly better views of a female in the Mahango Game Reserve. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Close views of a single bird at the lagoons near the King Nehale entrance to Etosha National Park. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius: First encountered at Onesi Dam and then much the commonest raptor in the north-east. Large flocks were observed on several occasions between Rundu and the Mahango Game Reserve, including one concentration of at least 500 birds at Ndhovu. The kites were having a field day, feeding on the flying termites. Black-shouldered Kite (Black-winged Kite) Elanus caeruleus: Rather scarce again this year. We saw three on the drive to Walvis Bay, about 15 at Etosha, three on the drive to Rundu and one on the long drive south to Omaruru. European Honey-Buzzard Pernis apivorus: A bird in heavy wing moult circling low overhead at Gammans sewage works in Windhoek came as something of a surprise and was a writein for the Namibia tour. We then went on to see another in Etosha National Park. This is an annual but rare non-breeding summer visitor to Namibia. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax: This was one raptor that was present in the usual numbers. We logged about 20 throughout the tour and had many great views, especially at Etosha. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: Great views of about 10 in the Mahango Game Reserve, including five walking about on the ground and apparently feeding on insects. Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina: Good views of single soaring birds in Etosha National Park and the Mahango Game Reserve. Wahlberg s Eagle Aquila wahlbergi: Unusually scarce this year. We saw only one - a bird in its noisy display flight over the river near Divundu. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: A light-phase individual was seen soaring high overhead near the Kunene River. African Hawk Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster: Brief views of a bird in flight on the drive to Kamanjab and much better views of an adult perched by the road soon after we had left the Kunene River. Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus: Close but brief views of an immature as we were driving north towards Ruacana, brief views of another at Namutoni and then superb views of an adult as we were driving north to Rundu. Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus: Four individuals were recorded: one on the drive north from Kamanjab, one on the drive to Rundu, one on the drive to Nxamaseri and one over the marshes near Nxamaseri. 13 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

14 Black-chested Snake Eagle (Black-breasted Snake Eagle) Circaetus pectoralis: Another raptor that was unusually scarce this year. We had great views of a couple on the drive north from Walvis Bay to Kamanjab, but then saw only two more: one at Etosha and one near Onguma Bush Camp. Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens: Decent scope views of a bird perched in a tree on a small island in the floodplain near Nxamaseri Lodge. Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus: Rather scarce this year. We saw only four or five at Etosha and a couple in the Mahango Game Reserve, but had some great views. African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer: One or two at the Kunene River, three at Onesi Dam, half a dozen in the Mahango Game Reserve and 20 or 30 along the river at Nxamaseri, where we had some fantastic views. The evocative call of this splendid eagle is definitely one of the characteristic sounds of Africa. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: Odd ones here and there throughout the tour. We logged a total of nine. The migrant form vulpinus is a common winter visitor to Namibia from the Palearctic. This form is sometimes split off as a separate species, the Steppe Buzzard B. vulpinus. Augur Buzzard Buteo augur: Great views of a pair at Spreetshoogte Pass. We also saw one on our last morning at Erongo Wilderness Lodge as we were searching for the Verreaux s Eagles. Little Sparrowhawk Accipiter minullus: Distant flight views of a bird over the river near Kunene River Lodge. Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus: This is generally the commonest and most conspicuous raptor in Namibia, occurring almost everywhere except in the relatively humid north-east. We logged a total of 28 and had some great views, but numbers were well down on a few years ago. Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates: Close but brief views of a couple on roadside telegraph poles in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu. African Marsh Harrier Circus ranivorus: Sadly very brief views of a bird quartering the reed-beds in the Mahango Game Reserve before dropping out of sight, never to reappear. PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: One at Onesi Dam, one on the drive from Ondangwa to Etosha National Park, one at Rundu sewage works and two in the Mahango Game Reserve. FALCONIDAE Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: Distant views of a bird perched on top of a rock pinnacle near Erongo Wilderness Lodge on our last evening in Namibia. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo: Good views of a couple over the river at Ndhovu Lodge and one over the river at Kavango River Lodge. Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera: Excellent views of an adult perched in a palm tree in the compound at Namutoni and another adult at the Twee Palms by Fischer s Pan. Rock Kestrel (Common Kestrel) Falco tinnunculus: Recorded on several occasions near rocky hills in the west and also seen at Etosha and on the drive to Omaruru. Greater Kestrel (White-eyed Kestrel) Falco rupicoloides: Great views of a single bird on the drive from Kamanjab to Ruacana and six in Etosha National Park. Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus: Superb views of a female in the bush near Namibgrens Guest Farm. PHASIANIDAE Crested Francolin Peliperdix sephaena: Good views of a single bird foraging under a tree in the grounds of Onguma Bush Camp. 14 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

15 Red-billed Francolin Pternistes adspersus: The commonest and most widespread francolin in Namibia, seen extremely well on many occasions. Hartlaub s Francolin Pternistes hartlaubi: Great views of a pair of this near-endemic in the rocks at Erongo Wilderness Lodge on our last evening. The birds responded extremely well to playback and flew in from some way off. Martin then saw another pair near the lodge the next morning. Red-necked Spurfowl (Red-necked Francolin) Pternistes afer: Superb views of a party of six in the grounds of the Kunene River Lodge and a couple of birds coming down to drink on the Angolan side of the river. The form concerned is nominate afer, which is confined to Angola and north-western Namibia Swainson s Spurfowl (Swainson s Francolin) Pternistes swainsonii: Good views of a party of four and a single bird at Etosha, a single bird at Sarasungu River Lodge and another single bird in the Mahango Game Reserve. Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei: Very close views of an immature male by the roadside on the plains north of Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. The bird was initially thought to be a Common Quail Coturnix coturnix, but subsequently confirmed as a Harlequin Quail from photographs. NUMIDIDAE Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris: First encountered at Rustig Toko Lodge near Kamanjab and then found commonly in Etosha National Park, at Ndhovu Lodge and on the floodplain below Kavango River Lodge. GRUIDAE Wattled Crane Grus carunculata: Relatively close views of one pair and distant views of a pair with a full-grown chick and a third pair on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve on our first visit; distant views of a pair in flight over the floodplain at Nxamaseri, and distant views of a pair in the Mahango Game Reserve on our second visit. Blue Crane Anthropoides paradisea: Good views of two groups totalling about 20 birds on Andoni Plain in Etosha National Park almost the first birds we saw on entering the park. The isolated population of Blue Cranes centred on Etosha Pan is believed to number only 60 individuals. RALLIDAE African Rail (African Water Rail) Rallus caerulescens: Brief views of a bird foraging out in the open on the floodplain below the Kavango River Lodge in the evening. Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris: Seen well on several occasions: at Gammans sewage works, at the Kunene River, at Rundu sewage works and along the Okavango in the north-east. Our best views were by the little jetty at Nxamaseri Lodge. African Purple Swamphen (African Swamphen) Porphyrio madagascariensis: One at Gammans sewage works, four at Onesi Dam and three at Rundu sewage works. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Recorded in good numbers at Gammans sewage works, Onesi Dam, Namutoni waterhole and Rundu sewage works, and also seen on the floodplain below Kavango River Lodge. Lesser Moorhen Gallinula angulata: Great views of an immature bird at Rundu sewage works a great find by Conny. This is a nomadic species and appears to be scarce and irregular over much of its range. Red-knobbed Coot (Crested Coot) Fulica cristata: At least 200 at Gammans sewage works, 200 at the dam at Namibgrens, 25 at Onesi Dam, three at the waterholes at Namutoni and a couple at Rundu sewage works. 15 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

16 OTIDIDAE Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori: Many great views of this very impressive bustard at Etosha, where we logged over 25, but not encountered anywhere else on the tour. Ludwig s Bustard Neotis ludwigii: Great views of a male flying over at Spreetshoogte Pass a remarkable sighting given that we were searching for Herero Chats. Rüppell s Korhaan Eupodotis rueppellii: Superb views of a group of three crossing the road in the coastal desert between Spreetshoogte and Walvis Bay. Red-crested Korhaan (Crested Bustard) Eupodotis ruficrista: Superb views of about a dozen in the bush in Etosha National Park. Northern Black Korhaan Eupodotis afraoides: Superb views of about 15 on the grassy plains in Etosha National Park. JACANIDAE African Jacana Actophilornis africanus: Twenty at Onesi Dam, one at a waterhole in Etosha National Park, 12 at Rundu sewage works and good numbers in the marshes along the Okavango. ROSTRATULIDAE Greater Painted Snipe Rostratula benghalensis: Our first was an elusive bird at a little creek near the Kunene River, but we then went on to have great views of another ten birds including one at Onesi Dam, two at Namutoni waterhole, three at the waterhole at Onguma Bush Camp, three at Rundu sewage works and one on the floodplain near Nxamaseri Lodge. In previous tours we have usually seen only one or two birds. HAEMATOPODIDAE African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini: Great views of five on the bunds at Mile-four Saltworks near Swakopmund. The oystercatchers are non-breeding visitors to Walvis Bay and most if not all have usually left by the time we get here. CHARADRIIDAE Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula: Amazingly only one at Walvis Bay, where this is generally a relatively common winter visitor. However, we also found one at Klein Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park. White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus: At least 60 in the Walvis Bay area. Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus: Good views of two at Walvis Bay and two at the saline lagoons near the King Nehale entrance to Etosha National Park. The great bulk of the Southern African population (nominate pallidus), estimated at 11,200 individuals, winters in the Walvis Bay area and there are still large numbers present in October. However, according to a local birder, the birds had recently departed for their inland breeding areas which this year would include Etosha Pan. Kittlitz s Plover Charadrius pecuarius: One at the Avis Dam in Windhoek, 15 (including two pairs with small chicks) at the dam at Namibgrens, 15 at Onesi Dam, 50 at the saline lagoons near the King Nehale gate, small numbers at some of the waterholes in Etosha National Park and one in the Mahango Game Reserve. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris: Small numbers at many of the wetlands throughout the tour. Grey Plover (Black-bellied Plover) Pluvialis squatarola: About a dozen in the Walvis Bay area. Crowned Lapwing (Crowned Plover) Vanellus coronatus: Good views of a pair near the Kunene River, half a dozen at Etosha and one near Divundu. 16 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

17 Blacksmith Lapwing (Blacksmith Plover) Vanellus armatus: Common at many of the wetlands throughout the tour. Our highest count was 100 at Onesi Dam. African Wattled Lapwing (African Wattled Plover) Vanellus senegallus: Good views of one from the decking at Ndhovu Lodge and four in the Mahango Game Reserve. Long-toed Lapwing (Long-toed Plover) Vanellus crassirostris: First encountered along the river at Ndhovu, where there were about a dozen, and then seen in small numbers in the Mahango Game Reserve and in good numbers along the river at Nxamaseri, where we had some extremely close views. The subspecies here is leucopterus which is confined to the southern half of the species range. This race shows far more white in the wing than the nominate race. SCOLOPACIDAE Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: About 170 in the Walvis Bay area. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus: Good views of three on the mudflats off the esplanade at Walvis Bay. Some of us also saw a bird at the waterhole at Namutoni. The Terek Sandpiper is a very scarce winter visitor to the coast of Southern Africa, but it seems that a few individuals return year after year to Walvis Bay. Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos: Odd ones at wetlands throughout the tour. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: First recorded at Onesi Dam and then encountered in good numbers at waterholes in Etosha National Park and at wetlands in the north-east. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Great views of about 25 at the saline lagoons at Walvis Bay, three at waterholes in Etosha National Park and one at Rundu sewage works. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: About 200 in the Walvis Bay area and small numbers at many other wetlands throughout the tour. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Much the commonest small wader at Walvis Bay, where we saw many thousands. We also found two or three at Namutoni and Klein Namutoni waterholes in Etosha National Park. Little Stint Calidris minuta: At least 500 in the Walvis Bay area, four at the saline lagoons near the King Nehale entrance to Etosha National Park, six at Klein Namutoni waterhole and six at Rundu sewage works. Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos: Good scope views of two adults at Namutoni waterhole on our last day in Etosha National Park undoubtedly the biggest surprise of the tour. This species is listed as a rare summer visitor to Southern Africa in the SASOL guide. Perhaps these are birds that, as juveniles, were blown across the Atlantic in autumn and have been wandering back and forth between Northern Europe and Southern Africa ever since. Sanderling Calidris alba: Several thousand in the Walvis Bay area. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Eight at the Avis Dam, three at the dam at Namibgrens, about 30 at Walvis Bay, two at Klein Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park, 15 at Rundu sewage works and five on the floodplain near Nxamaseri. African Snipe (Ethiopian Snipe) Gallinago nigripennis: Good views of three in the marsh at Onesi Dam, including a bird in its display flight, one at Namutoni waterhole and one at Rundu sewage works. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica: At least 300 at Walvis Bay, but mostly very far off. Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: About a dozen in the Walvis Bay area. PHALAROPODIDAE Red-necked Phalarope (Northern Phalarope) Phalaropus lobatus: Great views of at least 18 birds on the salt pans at Walvis Bay. Most if not all were adults and at least one was still largely in breeding plumage. The Red-necked Phalarope is now known to be a regular visitor in 17 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

18 very small numbers to south-west Africa. According to the local birder that we met, over 40 had been seen in this area only a few days previously the largest number ever recorded. The origin of these birds is unknown, as no major wintering areas have been discovered in the Atlantic Ocean and the nearest regular wintering area is in the northern Indian Ocean, off the Arabian Peninsula. A few birds are regular on the Rift Valley lakes in East Africa, and it is possible that small numbers make an overland crossing from the Indian Ocean to Walvis Bay. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: Only about 10 at Walvis Bay, but some hundreds way off in the distance at Etosha Pan, where the birds were presumably breeding this year. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Four at the dam at Namibgrens, about 200 in the Walvis Bay area, a few at the waterholes and at least 200 on the pan in Etosha National Park, one at Rundu sewage works and two over the river at Kavango River Lodge. BURHINIDAE Water Thick-knee (Water Dikkop) Burhinus vermiculatus: Superb views of about eight during our sundowner cruise on the Kunene River and at least four along the Okavango at Nxamaseri. GLAREOLIDAE Burchell s Courser Cursorius rufus: Decent scope views of a pair in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis a regular site for this species. Double-banded Courser (Two-banded Courser) Rhinoptilus africanus: Great views of a pair with a chick in the desert en route to Walvis Bay and six birds on the barren plains near Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. A very attractive and highly photogenic courser. Bronze-winged Courser (Violet-tipped Courser) Rhinoptilus chalcopterus: Great views of a bird hiding in the shade of an acacia near Andoni Plain in Etosha National Park. This is a rains migrant in Southern Africa, arriving in late October and November and rarely seen on our Namibia tours. Collared Pratincole (Red-winged Pratincole) Glareola pratincola: Distant views of four on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve on both our visits, and much better views of about 20 on the floodplain near Nxamaseri Lodge as we were leaving. Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni: Good scope views of a little group of five at the saline lagoons near the King Nehale entrance to Etosha National Park. Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis: Reasonably good scope views of a pair and a single bird on rocks in the Okavango River near Divundu. LARIDAE Cape Gull Larus vetula: Several hundred in the Walvis Bay area. This is a recent split from Kelp Gull L. dominicanus. Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus: Good views on several occasions, including some adults in breeding plumage. We saw a single bird with Hartlaub s Gulls on the esplanade at Walvis Bay, one at the waterhole at Namutoni, a flock of 125 at Klein Namutoni waterhole and single birds over the Okavango at Ndhovu Lodge and Kavango River Lodge. Hartlaub s Gull Larus hartlaubii: This rather attractive gull, endemic to Southern Africa, was very common along the coast. We must have seen several thousand in the Walvis Bay area and at Four-mile Saltworks. 18 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

19 STERNIDAE Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia: Twenty on the mudflats off the esplanade at Walvis Bay. Swift Tern (Greater Crested Tern) Sterna bergii: A couple at Walvis Bay and about 15 at Mile-four Saltworks. Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis: Half a dozen at Walvis Bay and about 30 at Mile-four Saltworks. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: Several hundred in the Walvis Bay area and several thousand at Milefour Saltworks. We also saw a single bird at Onesi Dam. The birds wintering in Southern Africa originate mainly from the Baltic Sea area, while birds from Western Europe winter mainly in West Africa. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: Good views of an immature bird which flew up from a marsh on the floodplain near Nxamaseri Lodge as we were leaving. This species is a fairly common winter visitor to the east coast of Southern Africa, but appears to be very rare inland. Damara Tern Sterna balaenarum: Surprisingly scarce this year; we saw only three at Walvis Bay, three at Mile-four Saltworks and a pair over the coastal desert near Henties Bay. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Good views of about 50 (including a few adults in breeding plumage) with White-winged Terns at Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park and also a single adult over the river at Kavango River Lodge. White-winged Tern (White-winged Black Tern) Chlidonias leucopterus: Good views of a single bird at Mile-four Saltworks, about 100 with Whiskered Terns at Namutoni waterhole, 25 over the river at Ndhovu Lodge and one over the river at Kavango River Lodge. RYNCHOPIDAE African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris: Good views of six over the river at Ndhovu Lodge in the evening and two the next morning, and distant views of four over the river at Kavango River Lodge. Apparently there was only one breeding pair near Nxamaseri Lodge this year and these birds had already reared their young and departed. PTEROCLIDIDAE Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua: Great views of several small flocks totalling about 60 in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis, but then only one a bird drinking at the waterhole at Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. Burchell s Sandgrouse Pterocles burchelli: Good views of a pair and a single bird at Tsumcor waterhole in Etosha National Park. This species is confined to areas of red sand and can be a difficult bird to find. Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus: Close views of a party of six foraging by the roadside near Kunene River Lodge and about 200 flying in to drink at dusk at Okaukuejo waterhole. We also saw a couple at the waterhole at Onguma Bush Camp. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia: Recorded in small numbers in urban areas. Speckled Pigeon (Rock Pigeon) Columba guinea: Odd ones and twos at the Avis Dam, Namibgrens, Walvis Bay, Rustig Toko Lodge and Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Our best views were of several birds on the lawn by the esplanade at Walvis Bay. Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata: Very common in the moister habitats in the north-east, calling I am a Red-eyed Dove. African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens: Good views of a couple in the garden at Kunene River Lodge and half a dozen at Nxamaseri. The pale iris and red eye-ring of this species give it a very distinctive appearance. 19 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

20 Cape Turtle Dove (Ring-necked Dove) Streptopelia capicola: Rather scarce in the arid west, but common along the Kunene River and thereafter generally the commonest dove throughout, exhorting us to work harder, work harder. Laughing Dove (Palm Dove) Streptopelia senegalensis: Common throughout. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis: Seen in small numbers on many occasions throughout the tour, but much scarcer than usual, presumably because of the severity of the dry season. Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove (Green-spotted Dove) Turtur chalcospilos: First recorded along the Kunene River and in the eastern part of Etosha National Park, and then found in small numbers at Roy s Camp and several localities in the north-east. African Green Pigeon Treron calva: Seen flying by on several occasions at Nxamaseri and eventually seen well foraging in a fruiting tree by the river. PSITTACIDAE Meyer s Parrot (Brown Parrot) Poicephalus meyeri: Good views of about 20 in and around the garden at Ndhovu Lodge, and also heard at Nxamaseri. Rüppell s Parrot Poicephalus rueppellii: We first encountered a pair at Rustig Toko Lodge and then saw three or four well in the garden at Kunene River Lodge and a pair on the drive to Opuwo. Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornis roseicollis: First seen well along the Kunene River, where about 30 were roosting in the trees across the river from the lodge, and then seen at extremely close range at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, where about 40 were visiting the bird table just outside the restaurant. MUSOPHAGIDAE Grey Go-Away-Bird (Grey Lourie) Corythaixoides concolor: Common wherever there were large trees. CUCULIDAE African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis: Heard at our lunch stop on the drive to Namibgrens and then seen extremely well on several occasions in Etosha National Park and in the Mahango Game Reserve. Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius: We heard a couple as we were driving out through the teak forest between Rundu and Divundu and then had superb views of a pair in response to playback on the way back. Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus: Seen well in the gardens at Kunene River Lodge, Roys Camp and Ndhovu Lodge and heard on many occasions in the north. Levaillant s Cuckoo (Striped Cuckoo) Oxylophus levaillantii: Distant views of one across the river from Ndhovu Lodge in the evening, then great views of one in the garden the next morning. Jacobin Cuckoo (Black-and-white Cuckoo) Oxylophus jacobinus: Great views of a couple at Rundu sewage works, a couple near Sarasungu River Lodge, one on the drive to Nxamaseri Lodge and one at Kavango River Lodge. Klaas s Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas: Heard calling at the Avis Dam and then seen well in response to playback at Ndhovu Lodge and in the Mahango Game Reserve. Diderick Cuckoo (Didric Cuckoo) Chrysococcyx caprius: Watched for some time at extremely close range at Gammans sewage works in Windhoek and heard calling on many occasions in the north. Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus: First encountered at Rundu sewage works and then seen well on several occasions at Ndhovu Lodge, in the Mahango Game Reserve, at Nxamaseri and on the floodplain below Kavango River Lodge. 20 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

21 Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis: Close views of one on the lawn at Sarasungu River Lodge and a couple at Rundu sewage works. Conny and Martin also found one at the waterhole at Namutoni in Etosha National Park. White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus: Heard calling in the garden at Kunene River Lodge on a couple of occasions and seen briefly in the garden at Ndhovu Lodge. We finally had good views of one in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge on our last morning there. STRIGIDAE African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii: Great views of a very responsive pair in the garden at Ndovu Lodge and also heard calling in woodland along the river at Nxamaseri. Marsh Owl Asio capensis: Fantastic views of a bird sitting in the middle of the track during our night drive at Rustig Toko Lodge an unexpected find, as there were no marshes anywhere near. African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis: Superb views of a bird at its day roost just outside Peter s bungalow at Kunene River Lodge. Southern White-faced Scops-Owl Ptilopsis granti: Superb views of a pair and a full-grown juvenile in a large tree in the compound at Halali in Etosha National Park. Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum: Heard calling on several occasions in response to playback and seen well on the drive to Namibgrens, at the Kunene River, in Etosha National Park, at Onguma Bush Camp and on the drive back to Omaruru. African Barred Owlet Glaucidium capense (H): Heard calling from woodland in Angola during our sundowner cruise on the Kunene River. Verreaux s Eagle Owl (Giant Eagle Owl) Bubo lacteus: Superb views, in the evening sunshine, of a bird sitting high up in a big tree on the Angolan bank of the Kunene River during our sundowner cruise. We also saw one fly across the river into Namibia early the next morning and had distant views of a bird in the spotlight at Onguma Bush Camp. Pel s Fishing Owl Scotopelia peli: Never having visited Nxamaseri Lodge before, we were not sure how easy this was going to be. The manager did not sound very optimistic, but our excellent guide Adam said he would do his best and he did. Within 20 minutes of leaving the little jetty, we had found an adult sitting out in the open and had superb views in the spotlight. When the bird eventually moved off, we set off back up stream and round the next bend found a full-grown juvenile sitting way up in a tall tree. This gave prolonged views and was still there when we left. But this was not all. The next evening, as we were returning at dusk from our sunset cruise on the river, we had great views of a second adult Pel s that flew up from the riverbank close to where we had seen the juvenile the previous evening. With great views of three individuals, it is perhaps not surprising that this splendid owl won the Bird of the Trip contest. CAPRIMULGIDAE Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus rufigena: Very common on the plains near Rustig Toko Lodge. We counted 16 during our night drive and had many superb views of birds sitting on the track in front of us. We also heard one churring at Onguma Bush Camp. Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma: Decent views of two birds flying around at dusk at Erongo Wilderness Lodge but showing little interest in playback, presumably because the breeding season was already well advanced. APODIDAE Common Swift (European Swift) Apus apus: First encountered on the drive north to Rundu and then seen in very large numbers between Rundu and Divundu, in the Mahango Game Reserve and on the drive south from Rundu. 21 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

22 Bradfield s Swift Apus bradfieldi: Good views of a couple near The Vineyard Guesthouse on our first morning, one with a flock of Alpine Swifts on the drive to Namibgrens, one on the drive from the coast to Kamanjab and one between Kamanjab and Ruacana. White-rumped Swift Apus caffer: Seen in small numbers in the Windhoek area, on the drive to Namibgrens, on the drive from Kamanjab to Ruacana and on the drive south to Omaruru. Little Swift Apus affinis: Common in the Windhoek area but patchily distributed elsewhere and not seen in the north. Alpine Swift Apus melba: Good views of a flock of 20 as we were approaching Namibgrens and a flock of 10 on the drive from Henties Bay to Kamanjab. African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus: Fairly common and widespread, almost invariably in the vicinity of palms. COLIIDAE White-backed Mousebird Colius colius: Fairly common in the Windhoek area, at Namibgrens and at Walvis Bay, and seen well on several occasions. Red-faced Mousebird Colius indicus: First encountered at Kunene River Lodge, and then found commonly in the north and east. Unusually, we had many great views this year. ALCEDINIDAE Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Common along the rivers in the north. Giant Kingfisher Ceryle maxima: Great views of this impressive kingfisher at Kunene River Lodge, Rundu sewage works, Ndhovu Lodge and Nxamaseri Lodge, and also seen from the terrace at Kavango River Lodge. We logged about 20. Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata: One at the Kunene River, a couple at Rundu sewage works, one at Ndhovu Lodge, at least 12 along the river at Nxamaseri and one below Kavango River Lodge. Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis: Heard at Rundu sewage works and then seen well on many occasions at Ndhovu Lodge, in the Mahango Game Reserve and at Nxamaseri, where two pairs were particularly noisy and conspicuous Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti: Great views of a very responsive pair in the teak forest near Rundu. Their duetting display with wings extended is very impressive. MEROPIDAE European Bee-eater Merops apiaster: We saw a few over the Avis Dam on our first afternoon and them found a number of flocks totalling about 120 in Etosha National Park. Madagascar Bee-eater (Olive Bee-eater) Merops superciliosus: Great views of about ten along the Kunene River and four on the drive to Opuwo. Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus: Fairly common along the Okavango. We recorded about 30 at Rundu sewage works, 10 near Divundu, 10 in the Mahango Game Reserve and at least 50 along the river at Nxamaseri. Southern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicoides: Our first were four individuals in the Mahango Game Reserve and eight on the drive to Nxamaseri, but these were mostly fly-bys. The main objective of our morning boat-trip up river from Nxamaseri Lodge was to visit a breeding colony of these bee-eaters in a red cliff, and here we had superb views of about 40 birds. For much of the time, the birds were perching in the reeds across the river from the colony, watching nervously as a huge monitor lizard excavated at the colony in search of easy prey. White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides: Good views of a party of four in the Mahango Game Reserve on both our visits, and also seen in small numbers along the river at Nxamaseri. 22 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

23 Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus: Great views of about 10 by the Kunene River and small numbers at several localities in the north-east. Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus: The most widespread bee-eater in Namibia, recorded in small numbers on many occasions in the dry bush. CORACIIDAE Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata: First recorded on the drive from Windhoek to Namibgrens and seen once in Etosha National Park, then common and widespread in the north-east. Purple Roller (Rufous-crowned Roller) Coracias naevia: Recorded in small numbers at many localities in central and western Namibia north to Etosha and also on the long drive south to Omaruru, but not encountered in the north-east. Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus: Brief views of a single bird in flight over woodland near Nxamaseri Lodge, as we were returning to our minibus. UPUPIDAE African Hoopoe Upupa africana: Recorded in ones and twos on a number of occasions throughout the tour. Many authors include this species in Eurasian Hoopoe U. epops, although it looks very different in flight. PHOENICULIDAE Green Woodhoopoe (Red-billed Woodhoopoe) Phoeniculus purpureus: Great views of two groups, totalling about 15, at Ndhovu Lodge, two birds in Botswana, as we were returning from Nxamaseri, and two in the Mahango Game Reserve. Violet Woodhoopoe (Southern Violet Woodhoopoe) Phoeniculus damarensis: Superb views of a very responsive pair in the garden at Kunene River Lodge. We also saw a pair across the river in Angola that evening and found three in the compound at Halali while we were hunting for White-faced Scops-Owls. Common Scimitarbill (Greater Scimitarbill) Phoeniculus cyanomelas: First encountered near the Kunene River and then seen well on several occasions, notably with the Black-faced Babblers at Roy s Camp. BUCEROTIDAE African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus: First encountered at the Ugab River on the drive north to Kamanjab and then seen well on many occasions to the end of the tour. Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus: Fairly common in the eastern portion of Etosha National Park, around Onguma Bush Camp and at Roy s Camp. Although the birds at Etosha had the dark faces typical of this species, some had dark eyes (a character of the next species ) and it seems that the relationship between these two forms is far from clear cut. Damara Hornbill Tockus damarensis: The pale-faced relative of the above, seen well on several occasions at Rustig Toko Lodge and along the Kunene River. Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas: First encountered at Rustig Toko Lodge and then seen in small numbers on many occasions in the north and east, although we failed o find any in Botswana. Bradfield s Hornbill Tockus bradfieldi: Excellent views of a single bird near Ndhovu Lodge and another in the Mahango Game Reserve. Monteiro s Hornbill Tockus monteiri: First encountered on the drive from Windhoek to Namibgrens and then seen well at Rustig Toko Lodge (where two birds were visiting the bird table), along the Kunene River and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. 23 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

24 LYBIIDAE Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus: Great views of a pair responding to playback in the Mahango Game Reserve and a pair in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. Acacia Pied Barbet (Pied Barbet) Lybius leucomelas: Good views of this fairly common bush bird on several occasions: at Gammans sewage works, Namibgrens, Etosha, Roy s Camp and Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird (Yellow-fronted Tinker Barbet) Pogoniulus chrysoconus: Heard calling on several occasions in the woodland in the north-east and seen once in response to playback in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. Crested Barbet (Levaillant s Barbet) Tachyphonus vaillantii: Excellent views of a very responsive bird in the Mahango Game Reserve and another in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. INDICATORIDAE Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator: Great views of a male in the Cinderella Waxbill valley near the Kunene River, and another heard calling from Angola that evening. Sharp-billed Honeyguide (Brown-backed Honeybird) Prodotiscus regulus: Close but brief views of a very active bird in the teak woodland near Rundu. It almost seemed as if the bird was leading us somewhere! Apparently this species has been extending its range westwards in recent years, and was first recorded on a Birdquest tour to Namibia as recently as PICIDAE Bennett s Woodpecker Campethera bennettii: Great views of a male in the woodland by the Kunene River as we were heading off to look for waxbills. The subspecies occurring is this area is the plain-breasted form buysi. Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni: It took us a long time to find our first, but then we found no less than six in the woodland at Nxamaseri Lodge and had great views. Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens: Good views of one in the Cinderella Waxbill valley near the Kunene River and a pair in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. ALAUDIDAE Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana: Great views of single birds by the roadside on four occasions: near Rustig Toko Lodge, near Namutoni in Etosha National Park and on both our visits to the Mahango Game Reserve. Eastern Clapper Lark Mirafra fasciolata: Great views of two in the grassland just north of the King Nehale gate as we were approaching Etosha and two more the next day as we were driving through the park. Fawn-coloured Lark Mirafra africanoides: Superb views of one in the bush north of Namutoni in Etosha National Park and also seen a couple of times in the Mahango Game Reserve. This species, which inhabits areas of red sand, was our fourteenth lark of the tour. Sabota Lark Mirafra sabota: The commonest lark in the drier habitats with scattered trees; especially common on the drive to Walvis Bay and at Etosha. All birds seen were of the large-billed form which is sometimes split off as a separate species, Bradfield s Lark M. naevia. Benguela Long-billed Lark Certhilauda benguelensis: Excellent views of two birds by the roadside as we were approaching Uis en route to Kamanjab. This is one of the products of the splitting up of the original Long-billed Lark into five species. Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilauda subcoronata: Excellent views of four by the roadside in semidesert on the drive from Spreetshoogte Pass to Walvis Bay. Another product of the Longbilled Lark split. 24 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

25 Dune Lark Certhilauda erythrochlamys: Good views of a pair responding well to playback in red sand dunes on the drive to Walvis Bay. This species is endemic to the dune habitats of coastal Namibia. Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata: Poor views of three in the desert on the drive to Walvis Bay and superb views of eight near Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. A very distinctive lark with its decurved bill, upright stance and white-tipped tail. Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea: Great views of about 50 as we were approaching the King Nehale entrance to Etosha National Park and then found commonly at several of the waterholes in the park. Pink-billed Lark Spizocorys conirostris: Great views of two pairs coming to drink at the saline lagoons near the King Nehale entrance to Etosha National Park. Stark s Lark Eremalauda starki: Good views of about 50 in the desert on the drive to Walvis Bay and 30 on the drive from Henties Bay to Uis. This is a highly nomadic species and can be quite elusive in some years. Gray s Lark Ammomanes grayi: Extremely good views of a very confiding bird in stony desert on the drive to Walvis Bay, and pretty good views of five in the desert on the drive from Henties Bay to Uis. This species is endemic to the coastal deserts of Namibia and adjacent Angola. Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark (Chestnut-backed Finchlark) Eremopterix leucotis: Good views of flocks totalling about 120 in the Okaukuejo area in Etosha National Park. Grey-backed Sparrowlark (Grey-backed Finchlark) Eremopterix verticalis: Our first was unusual a bird in the bush on the drive to Namibgrens. We saw hundreds in the desert on the drive to Walvis Bay and hundreds more in Etosha National Park, where we had many great views. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Common throughout the tour. The largest numbers were along the river at Nxamaseri. White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis: Great views of two pairs at the sewage works in Windhoek a well-known stake-out for this species. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii: Good views of eight along the Kunene River, one at Rundu sewage works and four over the river at Ndhovu Lodge. Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundo dimidiata: Excellent views of a pair in the garden at Namibgrens. Red-breasted Swallow (Rufous-chested Swallow) Hirundo semirufa: Odd ones and twos recorded on many occasions throughout the tour, usually near culverts in the highway. Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis: Good views of one in Botswana as we were driving back from Nxamaseri to the border and then two off the veranda at Kavango River Lodge. Greater Striped Swallow Hirundo cucullata: Seen well at the Avis Dam and Gammans sewage works, at Namibgrens Guest Farm and at Rustig Toko Lodge, but thereafter seen only once on the drive north to Rundu. Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo abyssinica: Good views of a pair near the bottom of Spreetshoogte Pass and also seen in small numbers on the drive from Etosha to Rundu and on the drive south from Rundu to Omaruru. Rock Martin (African Rock Martin) Hirundo fuligula: First encountered at Windhoek airport and then seen commonly in the drier areas in the west, at Okaukuejo and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Common House-Martin Delichon urbica: About 12 with other hirundines at Rustig Toko Lodge and a single bird in the Mahango Game Reserve. Sand Martin (Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia: Two with a large flock of Barn Swallows along the river near Nxamaseri Lodge. This seems to be a very scarce Palearctic migrant in Namibia. 25 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

26 Brown-throated Martin (Plain Martin) Riparia paludicola: Four with other hirundines at Gammans sewage works and about 50 along the river at Nxamaseri. Banded Martin Riparia cincta: First encountered near Onesi Dam and then seen in small numbers over the grassland in Etosha National Park, in the Mahango Game Reserve and along the river at Nxamaseri. DICRURIDAE Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis: Very common and widespread, except in the coastal deserts. CORVIDAE Cape Crow (Cape Rook, Black Crow) Corvus capensis: One on the drive from Spreetshoogte Pass to Walvis Bay, one on the drive to Kamanjab, five on the drive to Ondangwa and about half a dozen in Etosha National Park. A very odd looking crow! Pied Crow Corvus albus: Odd ones and twos here and there throughout the tour. They were commonest in the densely populated areas between Ruacana and Ondangwa. ORIOLIDAE Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus: A male in the garden at The Vineyard Guesthouse on our first morning and another male at Onguma Bush Camp. African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus: Great views of a male in poor plumage in the Cinderella Waxbill valley near the Kunene River, two in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu and one at Ndhovu Lodge. Black-headed Oriole (Eastern Black-headed Oriole) Oriolus larvatus: Good views of one at Sarasungu River Lodge, one in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu and one at Ndhovu Lodge. PARIDAE Ashy Tit (Ashy Grey Tit) Parus cinerascens: Great views of a pair near The Vineyard Guesthouse and a pair at Namibgrens. Southern Black Tit Parus niger: Brief views of one in the woodland between Divundu and Rundu and great views of two pairs in the Mahango Game Reserve. Carp s Tit (Carp s Black Tit) Parus carpi: Great views of a pair at Rustig Toko Lodge, a pair near the Kunene River and three at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Although very similar to the previous species, this species exhibits little, if any, sexual dimorphism. Rufous-bellied Tit Parus rufiventris: Great views of a family party of at least six in the teak woodland near Rundu, on our last foray in this habitat. This species, which favours large old trees, is getting increasingly hard to find as the forest is degraded. TIMALIIDAE Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii: Great views of a party of four in the garden at Sarasungu River Lodge and one at Kavango River Lodge. Black-faced Babbler (Black-lored Babbler) Turdoides melanops: Very close views of a family party of five in the garden at Roy s Camp. Hartlaub s Babbler Turdoides hartlaubi: The common babbler in the north-east, first encountered at Rundu sewage works and then seen extremely well on many occasions. Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor: Excellent views of a party of four at Onguma Bush Camp and another party of four at Roy s Camp. Although widespread in the Namibian bush, this babbler can be hard to find. 26 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

27 Bare-cheeked Babbler Turdoides gymnogenys: Good views of about eight at Rustig Toko Lodge on both our walks in the bush and about a dozen at the Kunene River. This very attractive babbler is endemic to Namibia and Angola. PYCNONOTIDAE African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans: The common bulbul for much of the tour. Dark-capped Bulbul (Black-eyed Bulbul) Pycnonotus tricolor: Common in the more humid areas in the north-east, where it replaces the previous species. Terrestrial Brownbul (Terrestrial Bulbul) Phyllastrephus terrestris: Superb views of a pair in the garden at Sarasungu River Lodge and a pair in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. Yellow-bellied Greenbul (African Yellow-bellied Bulbul) Chlorocichla flaviventris: Common, noisy and conspicuous along the Kunene River and also seen in small numbers at Rundu sewage works, in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu and at Kavango River Lodge. TURDIDAE Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyanus: Great views of an adult and a juvenile in the garden at Sarasungu River Lodge and a couple in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu. Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsipsirupa: Many good sightings of this strange and attractive thrush, notably at The Vineyard Guesthouse in Windhoek, Namibgrens Guest Farm, Kunene River Lodge and Etosha. Short-toed Rock Thrush Monticola brevipes: Good views on several occasions: on the drive to Namibgrens, at Namibgrens Guest Farm, at Spreetshoogte Pass and Gaub Canyon on the drive to Walvis Bay, and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Mountain Wheatear (Mountain Chat) Oenanthe monticola: First encountered on the drive to Namibgrens and then found commonly in the rocky hills at Namibgrens, at Spreetshoogte Pass and on the drive to Walvis Bay. A couple of the males were of the scarce pale form. Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata: Good views of three individuals in Etosha National Park. Familiar Chat (Red-tailed Chat) Cercomela familiaris: Commonly encountered around habitation in the semi-arid bush country in the west and also seen near the Kunene River and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac: Good views of two in the desert on the drive from Spreetshoogte Pass to Walvis Bay and six on the drive from Henties Bay to Uis. Karoo Chat Cercomela schlegelii: Good views of three in the semi-desert between Spreetshoogte Pass and Walvis Bay. Southern Ant-eating Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora: First encountered on the drive to Namibgrens and then seen well on several occasions in Etosha National Park. White-browed Robin-Chat (Heuglin s Robin) Cossypha heuglini: A colourful robin of the north-east, seen well in the gardens at Sarasungu River Lodge, Ndhovu Lodge, Nxamaseri Lodge and Kavango River Lodge, and also seen in the Mahango Game Reserve. Rufous-tailed Palm-Thrush Cichladusa ruficauda: Superb views of two pairs in the garden at Kunene River Lodge. This Angolan speciality, here at the extreme southern edge of its range, always seems to be very obliging. White-browed Scrub-Robin (White-browed Robin) Cercotrichas leucophrys: First encountered near Namutoni in Etosha National Park and then seen well on several occasions in the northeast and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. The subspecies in this area, ovamboensis, is more or less unstreaked on the underparts which can show quite a peachy wash. In this respect, it is superficially similar to the Eastern Bearded Robin C. quadrivirgata. Kalahari Scrub-Robin (Kalahari Robin) Cercotrichas paena: Three on the drive from Windhoek to Namibgrens, half a dozen in Etosha National Park and one on the drive south from 27 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

28 Rundu. This species was much less conspicuous than usual, presumably because the birds had already settled down to breed. Karoo Scrub-Robin (Karoo Robin) Cercotrichas coryphaeus: Superb views of at least six birds in the garden at Namibgrens Guest Farm. The species occurs here at the northern extremity of its range. Herero Chat Namibornis herero: We had to do a little work for this bird, but at one of the hairpins near the bottom of Spreetshoogte Pass we eventually found a pair and then had extraordinarily good views. The thrill of the chase and superb views earned this scarce and local near-endemic second spot in the Bird of the Trip contest. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-vented Titbabbler (Common Titbabbler) Parisoma subcaeruleum: A common bird of the dry bush, seen well on several occasions, often in response to the Pearl-spotted Owlet recording. Layard s Titbabbler Parisoma layardi: Great views of a very responsive bird in the rocky hills near Namibgrens Guest Farm. Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina: Good views of a bird seen from the veranda at Kavango River Lodge and another in the woodland just south of Rundu later the same morning. African Reed-Warbler (African Marsh Warbler) Acrocephalus baeticatus: Common and seen well at Gammans sewage works in Windhoek. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus: One seen well at Rundu sewage works. Lesser Swamp Warbler (Cape Reed Warbler) Acrocephalus gracilirostris: Good views of four in the reed-beds at Onesi Dam and about 10 at Rundu sewage works, and also seen on the floodplain below Kavango River Lodge Greater Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus rufescens: Great views on several occasions of up to four birds in the papyrus by the jetty at Nxamaseri Lodge. Little Rush-Warbler (African Sedge Warbler) Bradypterus baboecala (H): Heard in song at Onesi Dam and on several occasions by the river at Nxamaseri, but refusing to show itself. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus: First encountered at the Avis Dam in Windhoek and then found in small numbers at a number of localities in the north and east. This is one of the commoner Palearctic migrants in Namibia. Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida: Great views of a pair in the garden at Sarasungu River Lodge. Long-billed Crombec Sylvietta rufescens: Seen well on several occasions: on the drive to Namibgrens, at the Kunene River, at Onguma Bush Camp, at Roys Camp, near Rundu and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis: This is generally a fairly common bird of the bush, but we encountered it only twice: one bird responding to the Pearl-spotted Owlet recording near The Vineyard Guesthouse and another responding to the owl recording in the bush at Rustig Toko Lodge. Burnt-necked Eremomela Eremomela usticollis: Great views of a very responsive bird in the compound at Namutoni and also seen in response to the Pearl-spotted Owlet recording at our picnic spot on the drive south to Omaruru. Grey-backed Camaroptera (Grey-backed Bleating Warbler) Camaroptera brevicaudata: Another common bush bird, first encountered at The Vineyard Guesthouse in Windhoek and then seen well on a number of occasions in the north and east. African Wren-Warbler (African Barred Warbler) Camaroptera fasciolata: Great views of a very responsive bird in the bush near the Avis Dam, a pair at Rustig Toko Lodge and a single bird at Namutoni in Etosha National Park. We also heard its distinctive song on several occasions in the bush. 28 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

29 Rockrunner Achaetops pycnopygius: Superb views of a very obliging bird in the rocky hills at Namibgrens and distant scope views of a bird perched up on top of a rock at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. This is a true Namibian endemic. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Cisticola) Cisticola juncidis: Three at the Avis Dam, one at Gammans sewage works and a couple in the marshes at Onesi Dam. Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus: First encountered in dry grassland on the drive to Namibgrens and on the drive to Walvis Bay, and then found commonly in Etosha National Park. Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chinianus: The common cisticola of the dry bush, seen well on many occasions, often in response to the Pearl-spotted Owlet recording. Chirping Cisticola Cisticola pipiens: Fairly common in the papyrus swamps along the Okavango at Nxamaseri and seen well on several occasions in response to playback. Neddicky (Piping Cisticola) Cisticola fulvicapillus (H): One sang briefly in response to playback in the woodland near Rundu, but failed to show itself. Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava: Fairly common in the moister habitats in the north-east and seen well near Rundu and at Nxamaseri. Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans: Common and widespread in the dry country and seen well on many occasions. Rufous-eared Warbler Malcorus pectoralis: Superb views of a very responsive bird in low scrub near Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. This primarily South African species occurs here in a small isolated population centred on Etosha Pan. MUSCICAPIDAE Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata: First encountered at the Avis Dam and Gammans sewage works and then recorded on several occasions in the woodland in the north and east. Ashy Flycatcher (Blue-grey Flycatcher) Muscicapa caerulescens: Superb views of a pair responding well to playback in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. Southern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis pammelaina: Excellent views of a pair in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu. This is an easy bird to overlook amongst the many Forktailed Drongos. Marico Flycatcher Melaenornis mariquensis: A common bird of the drier bush, first encountered at the Avis Dam in Windhoek and particularly common at Etosha. Pale Flycatcher (Pallid Flycatcher, Mouse-coloured Flycatcher) Melaenornis pallidus: Brief views of a tail-less bird in the woodland south of Rundu on our first visit to this site and much better views of a complete bird on our return visit. Chat Flycatcher Melaenornis infuscatus: One of the commoner birds in the semi-desert habitats in the west, encountered in good numbers on the drives from Windhoek to Namibgrens, from Spreetshoogte Pass to Walvis Bay and from Henties Bay to Uis. We also saw a few at Etosha. PLATYSTEIRIDAE Pririt Batis Batis pririt: A fairly common bird of the dry bush, seen well at the Avis Dam, Spreetshoogte Pass, Rustig Toko Lodge and Erongo Wilderness Lodge. MONARCHIDAE African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis: First encountered in the garden at Kunene River Lodge, where the birds were just arriving back, and then found fairly commonly in the woodland and lodge gardens in the north-east. We also saw one by the waterhole at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. 29 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

30 MOTACILLIDAE African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp: A very striking wagtail of rivers in the north. We saw three along the Kunene River, one at the rapids near Divundu, one at Ndhovu Lodge and one in the Mahango Game Reserve. Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis: An unimpressive wagtail, first encountered at The Vineyard Guesthouse and Gammans sewage works and then seen in small numbers at Namibgrens Guest Farm and Walvis Bay. We also found five along the Okavango River at Nxamaseri and a couple at Windhoek Airport as we were about to leave. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava: A group of five feeding amongst cattle on the floodplain near Nxamaseri Lodge as we were returning to our minibus. This is an uncommon Palearctic migrant in Botswana. African Pipit (Grassveld Pipit) Anthus cinnamomeus: Much the commonest pipit over much of Namibia, first encountered at Gammans sewage works and seen commonly in and around Etosha National Park and also in the Mahango Game Reserve. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis: Good views of two birds near Namibgrens Guest Farm and a single bird at Spreetshoogte Pass. LANIIDAE Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor: Good views on many occasions in the eastern portion of Etosha National Park, where we logged over 15, and also found commonly in the Mahango Game Reserve. This is one of the commoner Palearctic migrants in northern Namibia. Common Fiscal (Common Fiscal Shrike) Lanius collaris: Fairly common on roadside wires in the arid west and also seen near Omaruru on our way back south. The subspecies concerned shows a white eyebrow and may one day be split off as a separate species, the Latakoo Fiscal L. subcoronatus. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio: A couple at Rundu sewage works, a couple at Ndhovu Lodge and five in the Mahango Game Reserve. Magpie Shrike (African Long-tailed Shrike) Corvinella melanoleuca: A very striking shrike, seen well at Rundu sewage works, by the rapids near Divundu and in Botswana en route to and from Nxamaseri. MALACONOTIDAE Swamp Boubou Laniarius bicolor: Fairly common and conspicuous in riverine woodland in the north, first encountered at Kunene River Lodge and then seen well on many occasions in the north-east, notably at Sarasungu River Lodge, Ndhovu Lodge, Nxamaseri Lodge and Kavango River Lodge. Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniarius atrococcineus: A common and attractive bird of the bush, seen well on several occasions, notably at The Vineyard Guesthouse, at Rustig Toko Lodge, at Onguma Bush Camp and in the Mahango Game Reserve. Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla: A fairly common bush bird, first encountered at the Ugab River and then recorded on several occasions in the woodland in the north-east. Brubru Nilaus afer: Great views of a pair at Rustig Toko Lodge, one on the drive north to the Kunene River and one at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. We also heard the distinctive telephone-like song on a number of occasions. Brown-crowned Tchagra (Three-streaked or Brown-headed Tchagra) Tchagra australis: Great views of one in the bush near The Vineyard Guesthouse, one in the Mahango Game Reserve and one in Botswana as we were returning from Nxamaseri. Bokmakierie Telophorus zeylonus: Good views of a pair at Spreetshoogte Pass. 30 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

31 Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike Telophorus sulfureopectus: Heard on many occasions in the gardens and woodland in the north-east and seen briefly just inside Botswana, but it was not until we were driving back through the Mahango Game Reserve that we finally had good views of a very responsive male. White-tailed Shrike Lanioturdus torquatus: First encountered at Rustig Toko Lodge, where we had some cracking views of a very tame party in the garden, then seen in good numbers in the Kunene River area and also at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. This aberrant shrike looks more like a large batis than a true shrike and may, in fact, be more closely related to the batises. PRIONOPIDAE White-crested Helmetshrike (White Helmetshrike) Prionops plumatus: Small fast-moving flocks were recorded on two occasions at Etosha, once at Onguma Bush Camp and twice in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu, where we had some great views. Southern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus anguitimens: A fairly common bird of the dry woodland, first encountered at the Ugab River and then seen well on several occasions along the Kunene River, in Etosha National Park and at Onguma Bush Camp. STURNIDAE Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea: As usual, there were large flocks at Gammans sewage works, including a few birds coming into breeding plumage. Thereafter we encountered small groups on many occasions, but the only sizeable flock was of about 200 at Rundu sewage works. Violet-backed Starling (Plum-coloured Starling) Cinnyricinclus leucogaster: Small numbers were recorded on both our drives through the woodland between Rundu and Divundu, and we also saw a couple at Ndhovu Lodge and a lone male at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Burchell s Starling Lamprotornis australis: Fairly common in the eastern section of Etosha National Park and in the north-east, from Rundu to the Mahango Game Reserve. We also saw a few just over the border in Botswana. Meves s Starling (Meves s Long-tailed Starling, Long-tailed Glossy Starling) Lamprotornis mevesii: Common along the Kunene River and in the Mahango Game Reserve, and also seen just over the border in Botswana. Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornis nitens: Much the most widespread of the starlings and common in many areas, but not recorded in the extreme north-east or Botswana. Pale-winged Starling Onychognathus nabouroup: A fairly common starling of arid rocky hills, seen well at The Vineyard Guesthouse, Namibgrens Guest Farm, Spreetshoogte Pass, on the drive to Walvis Bay and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. BUPHAGIDAE Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus: Our sightings included a single bird over the river at Kunene River Lodge, a party of four amongst cattle and donkeys at Onesi Dam, two over the river at Ndhovu Lodge, one in the Mahango Game Reserve and two or three on the floodplain near Nxamaseri Lodge. NECTARINIIDAE Marico Sunbird Nectarinia mariquensis: A widespread species, first seen at the Avis Dam and then recorded on several occasions in the bush and in lodge gardens, often in response to the Pearl-spotted Owlet recording. 31 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

32 White-bellied Sunbird Nectarinia talatala: First encountered at Onguma Bush Camp and then seen well on several occasions in the north-east, notably from the veranda at Kavango River Lodge. Dusky Sunbird Nectarinia fusca: The common sunbird of the dry country, first encountered in Windhoek and then seen well on many occasions, notably at Namibgrens Guest Farm and Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Nectarinia senegalensis: Another widespread sunbird, encountered in Windhoek, at Namibgrens Guest Farm, at Kunene River Lodge, at Roy s Camp and at Kavango River Lodge. Amethyst Sunbird (African Black Sunbird) Nectarinia amethystina: A fairly common sunbird in the woodland in the north-east, first encountered near Rundu and seen well on several occasions. Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris: Great views of four responding well to the African Barred Owlet recording in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. ZOSTEROPIDAE Orange River White-eye Zosterops pallidus: Great views of a pair in a small park near the esplanade at Walvis Bay. African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis: Good views of a pair in the woodland just south of Rundu on our first visit and a single bird in the same area on our second visit. PLOCEIDAE Red-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis niger: First encountered at Rustig Toko Lodge and then seen well on several occasions, mostly single birds in lodge gardens, although there were at least 10 birds around Onguma Bush Camp. Their large, untidy stick nests are a common feature of the Namibian landscape. White-browed Sparrow Weaver Plocepasser mahali: A very common and conspicuous bird in the drier areas. Their untidy yellow straw nests seem to be everywhere in the bush. Sociable Weaver Philetairus socius: Locally common in the dry bush. We saw our first huge communal nests on the drive to Namibgrens and had extremely close views of birds feeding on scraps at the cafe in Solitaire on our way to Walvis Bay. There were also good numbers around Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Common in many of the towns. Great Sparrow Passer motitensis: Another fairly common bush bird, seen well at Namibgrens Guest Farm, Rustig Toko Lodge, Etosha and Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Cape Sparrow Passer melanurus: A very attractive sparrow, seen at very close quarters at the cafe in Solitaire and also found at Walvis Bay. Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus: Widespread and fairly common in the dry bush and around several of our lodges. Yellow-throated Petronia (African Yellow-throated Sparrow) Petronia superciliaris: Close but brief views of three in the woodland south of Rundu as we were heading back south. Not a particularly exciting bird to look at! Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipes squamifrons: This odd little finch was surprisingly scarce this year. We saw only a couple in arid grassland on the drive to Walvis Bay and a couple near Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. Thick-billed Weaver (Grosbeak Weaver) Amblyospiza albifrons: About a dozen along the river at Nxamaseri. Most were fly-bys, but we had superb views of a male working on its elaborate nest. Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis: Good views of four in the garden at Kunene River Lodge, including a male working on its nest, and one in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. 32 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

33 Village Weaver (Spotted-backed Weaver) Ploceus cucullatus: Great views of about 60 at their breeding colonies along the river at Nxamaseri. The males were in full breeding plumage and displaying vigorously at their nests. Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus: Remarkably few this year. We saw only one near The Vineyard Guesthouse in Windhoek, one at Rustig Toko Lodge and about 20 along the Kunene River. All were still in their very dull non-breeding plumage. Southern Masked Weaver (Masked Weaver) Ploceus velatus: The most widespread of the weavers, first seen in Windhoek and then recorded on many occasions throughout the tour, although rather scarce in the north-east. Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius: Great views of a little colony of six pairs in the garden at The Vineyard Guesthouse and half a dozen birds at Rundu sewage works. Golden Weaver (Holub s Golden Weaver) Ploceus xanthops: The common weaver of lodge gardens in the north, recorded at Kunene River Lodge, Sarasungu River Lodge, Ndhovu Lodge, Nxamaseri Lodge and Kavango River Lodge. Southern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus xanthopterus: Fairly common in the reed-beds along the river at Nxamaseri and seen very well on several occasions from the boat. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps: First encountered at a creek near Ruacana, then seen well in the garden at Kunene River Lodge, in the garden at Ndhovu Lodge (where a male was watched working on its nest) and in the woodland south of Rundu. Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea: We saw our first few at the Avis Dam, but then no more until we reached the Kunene River. Thereafter we encountered big flocks on many occasions, especially at Etosha, where many thousands were watched flying in to roost in the reedbeds at Namutoni waterhole. Southern Red Bishop Euplectes orix: Four at Gammans sewage works, including a male in full breeding plumage, and about a dozen at Onesi Dam. Fan-tailed Widowbird (Red-shouldered Widow) Euplectes axillaris: Good views of four at Rundu sewage works and at least 30 along the river at Nxamaseri. Many of the males were already in breeding plumage. ESTRILDIDAE Green-winged Pytilia (Melba Finch) Pytilia melba: This colourful little finch was seen well at The Vineyard Guesthouse and Avis Dam in Windhoek and at Onguma Bush Camp. We also saw one between Rundu and Divundu and one at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala: Good views of six at the Avis Dam, three at Rundu sewage works and one in the garden at Nxamaseri. Brown Firefinch Lagonosticta nitidula: Great views of a little group of six in the garden at Nxamaseri Lodge. This elusive little finch is always a bit tricky as it never seems to appear in the same place twice. Blue Waxbill (Blue-breasted Cordon-bleu) Uraeginthus angolensis: A common bird of the woodland and bush, first seen at the Avis Dam and then recorded on many occasions in the north and east. Violet-eared Waxbill Uraeginthus granatinus: A very colourful waxbill of the dry bush, seen well on our first morning at The Vineyard Guesthouse and then found on several occasions at Etosha and once at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild: Little flocks were seen well at Gammans sewage works, Walvis Bay, Rundu sewage works and Nxamaseri Lodge. Black-faced Waxbill (Black-cheeked Waxbill) Estrilda erythronotos: A subtly attractive estrildine finch, seen well at The Vineyard Guesthouse and Avis Dam in Windhoek, in the bush at Rustig Toko Lodge and in the compound at Namutoni. 33 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

34 Cinderella Waxbill Estrilda thomensis: Easy again this year, thanks to Peter s intimate knowledge of the waxbill and its habits. In mid-morning, we bounced off in his pickup truck and, after a short drive up a sandy riverbed, came to one of the birds favourite drinking pools. Within minutes, Peter had heard the waxbill s distinctive buzzing call and spotted a pair lurking in a dense bush. The birds were quite shy and skittish, but eventually gave good views in the canopy of a tall tree, before flying off into the bush to feed. We found another pair and a fifth individual a bit farther up the valley, but these soon flew off. This pretty little estrildine finch, an Angolan speciality here at the southern extremity of its range, used to be a very difficult bird to find in Namibia. African Quail Finch Ortygospiza atricollis: Exceptionally good views of about 20 foraging on the mud at the edge of the marsh at Onesi Dam and more typical flight views of a party of six at the lagoons near the King Nehale entrance to Etosha National Park the next day. Red-headed Finch Amadina erythrocephala: Close views of eight of these attractive Southern African endemics at the bird feeders in the garden of the cafe at Solitaire, and then found in good numbers in the garden of our hotel in Ondangwa and at the waterhole at Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura: Good views of three at the Avis Dam, four by the river near Nxamaseri Lodge and one in the Mahango Game Reserve. Several were males in full breeding plumage. Shaft-tailed Whydah Vidua regia: Good views of six with other small finches at the Avis Dam, four at waterholes in Etosha National Park and a flock of 15, including a male almost in full breeding plumage, at Rundu sewage works. Long-tailed Paradise-Whydah (Eastern Paradise-Whydah) Vidua paradisaea: A couple of birds in non-breeding plumage near Namutoni in Etosha National Park and a single bird, also in non-breeding plumage, in the woodland between Rundu and Divundu. FRINGILLIDAE Yellow-fronted Canary (Yellow-eyed Canary) Serinus mozambicus: Brief views of three in the woodland just south of Rundu on our first visit and much better views of half a dozen in the same area on our second visit. Black-throated Canary Serinus atrogularis: A fairly common bird of the dry country, first encountered at the Avis Dam and Vineyard Guesthouse and then found commonly at Namibgrens Guest Farm, Rustig Toko Lodge and Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Yellow Canary Serinus flaviventris: Only a couple this year: a male briefly at Rustig Toko Lodge and a female near Namutoni in Etosha National Park. White-throated Canary Serinus albogularis: Only one this year, but that gave great views sitting on a roadside fence on the drive from Spreetshoogte Pass to Walvis Bay. EMBERIZIDAE Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris: A very colourful bunting, first encountered at Rustig Toko Lodge and then seen well on a number of occasions at Etosha and in the woodland in the north-east. Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis: Good views of a couple in the rocky hills at Namibgrens and three at Spreetshoogte Pass. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting (Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting) Emberiza tahapisi: Seen well on several occasions in the Kunene River area, at Klein Namutoni waterhole in Etosha National Park and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani: A nondescript little bird, even less conspicuous than usual this year. We found about 50 on the drive from Spreetshoogte Pass to Walvis Bay and a 34 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

35 couple near Uis on the drive north to Kamanjab. Our best views were of birds drinking at the fountain in the garden of the cafe at Solitaire. MAMMALS Angolan Epauletted Fruit Bat Epomophorus angolensis: Great views of one roosting in a shed and three flying about under a big tree by the restaurant at Kunene River Lodge. Dassie Rat Petromus typicus: One seen by Conny and Mike at Spreetshoogte Pass and a total of four seen by us at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Ground Squirrel (Cape Ground Squirrel) Xerus inauris: One at Gammans sewage works, five in the desert en route to Walvis Bay, three or four at Rustig Toko Lodge and half a dozen near Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. Striped Tree Squirrel (Kuhl s Tree Squirrel) Funisciurus congicus: Close views of a couple at Rustig Toko Lodge and half a dozen at Kunene River Lodge. Tree Squirrel (Smith s Bush Squirrel) Paraxerus cepapi: Half a dozen around the lodges at Etosha, two at Roy s Camp, one at Sarasungu River Lodge and three in the Mahango Game Reserve. Springhare Pedetes capensis: Excellent views of one of these strange creatures hopping through the grassland like a wallaby during our night drive at Rustig Toko Lodge. Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis: Good views of one near the dam at Namibgrens Guest Farm, three at Rustig Toko Lodge (including two during the night drive) and one at Etosha. Rock Dassie (Cape Dassie, Cape Rock Hyrax) Procavia capensis: Seen well on several occasions: in the rocky hills at Namibgrens, at Spreetshoogte Pass and at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, where we recorded at least 50. African Elephant Loxodonta africana: One seen briefly in the bush as we were driving north from Rustig Toko Lodge to the Kunene River, and then a total of ten, probably all young males, seen at close range at waterholes at Etosha during our first day in the park. Mountain Zebra Equus zebra: Good views of a herd of 27 in the rolling grassland north of Spreetshoogte Pass. Burchell s Zebra Equus burchelli: Very common in Etosha National Park and also seen in small numbers in the Mahango Game Reserve. Not quite as pretty or as intricately marked as the previous species. Black Rhinoceros Diceros bicornis: We did really well with rhinos this year, recording seven individuals. Our first was a large individual wandering through the open grassland on the edge of Etosha Pan during the heat of the day. This was some way off, but soon after, we saw another large individual wandering through the bush not far from the road and had superb views. That evening after dinner, we had good views in the floodlights of a group of three and a single individual visiting the waterhole at Okaukuejo, and then the next evening, at dusk, we saw another rhino coming in to drink at the waterhole at Namutoni. Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius: Many good sightings of small groups along the Okavango near Divundu, at Ndhovu Lodge, in the Mahango Game Reserve and along the river at Nxamaseri. Warthog Phacochoerus aethiopicus: Small numbers seen well on several occasions at Etosha, at Ndhovu Lodge, in the Mahango Game Reserve and on the drive south from Rundu to Omaruru. Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis: Distant views of three during the night drive at Rustig Toko Lodge, better views of one the next morning and great views of about 50 at Etosha and five in the Mahango Game Reserve. Blue Wildebeest (Brindled Gnu) Connochaetes taurinus: Very common at Etosha. Red Hartebeest (Hartebeeste) Alcelaphus buselaphus: Great views of several groups totalling over 50 at Etosha. 35 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

36 Springbok Antidorcas marsupialis: Small numbers seen on several occasions in the western deserts and during the night drive at Rustig Toko Lodge and abundant at Etosha, but not seen thereafter. Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus: Good views of two amongst the rocks at Erongo Wilderness Lodge on our last morning. Damara Dik-Dik (Kirk s Dik-Dik) Madoqua kirkii: Superb views of 16 in the eastern section of Etosha National Park (mostly on the aptly named Dik-Dik Drive) and five at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Steenbok (Steinbok) Raphicerus campestris: Many great views of this attractive little antelope at Etosha, and also seen at Rustig Toko Lodge, at Onguma Bush Camp and in the Mahango Game Reserve. Impala Aepyceros melampus: About 100 of the black-faced form in Etosha National Park and at least 100 of the regular form in the Mahango Game Reserve. Most were extremely tame and gave very close views. The black-faced form is sometimes treated as a separate species, the Black-faced Impala A. petersi. Roan (Roan Antelope) Hippotragus equinus: Reasonably good views of a group of four walking across the open grassland during our first visit to the Mahango Game Reserve. A most extraordinary animal, with its long bushy ears and equine build. Sable (Sable Antelope) Hippotragus niger: Distant views of a group of eight with a herd of other antelopes on the grassland in the Mahango Game Reserve during our first visit. Gemsbok (Oryx) Oryx gazella: Four during the night drive at Rustig Toko Lodge and at least 65 at Etosha, where we had some great views, African Buffalo (Cape Buffalo) Syncerus caffer: Distant views of a herd of 20 on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve during our first visit and a lone individual during our second visit. Kudu (Greater Kudu) Tragelaphus strepsiceros: One by the roadside on the drive north from Rustig Toko Lodge, about 30 at Etosha, where we had some great views at the waterholes, and a few in the Mahango Game Reserve on both our visits. Surely the most splendid of the antelopes. Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus: Rather distant views of two males on the riverbank across from Ndhovu Lodge and much better views of a female in the Mahango Game Reserve the next day. Eland Taurotragus oryx: Brief views of one that ran across the road ahead of us as we were leaving Etosha National Park. The animal was so big that it was first called as a rhino! Reedbuck (Common Reedbuck) Redunca arundinum: About 50 on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve on both our visits. Waterbuck (Common Waterbuck) Kobus ellopsiprymnus: Rather distant views of ten on the riverbank across from Ndhovu Lodge and six in the Mahango Game Reserve the next day. Red Lechwe (Lechwe) Kobus leche: About 30 feeding on the floodplain in the Mahango Game Reserve on both our visits. Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta: Brief views of one walking away from Klein Namutoni waterhole and disappearing into the bushes before all of us could see it. Aardwolf Proteles cristatus: Superb views of one individual and good views of a second as they foraged in the grassland during our night drive from Rustig Toko Lodge. For some of us, definitely the mammalian highlight of the tour. Lion Panthera leo: Only four at Etosha this year, but our views were exceptional. Our first two were a lioness and young male resting under the shade of an acacia near a waterhole. Although they were extremely close, it took us a while to find them as they were largely obscured behind a row of vehicles! Soon after, we came across another two both males this time 36 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

37 lying under an acacia next to the road. Great views were enjoyed by all and many photos taken. Cape Fox Vulpes chama: Extremely close views of one sitting outside its den on the plains north of Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas: First encountered on the drive north from Walvis Bay and then seen a couple of times at Rustig Toko Lodge and on numerous occasions at Etosha. Small-spotted Genet (Common Genet) Genetta genetta: Good views of one visiting the waterhole at Erongo Wilderness Lodge after dark. Suricate (Meerkat) Suricata suricatta: Good views of two small bands in the desert on the drive to Walvis Bay and a band of six in the desert between Henties Bay and Uis. Fortunately, they were not as wary as is usually the case and gave great views. Yellow Mongoose (Bushy-tailed Meerkat) Cynictis penicillata: One at Gammans sewage works, two on the drive to Walvis Bay and a party of four at their den near Okaukuejo in Etosha National Park. Slender Mongoose Galerella sanguinea: Brief views of one at Namibgrens and three in Etosha National Park. Black Mongoose (Shadow Hunter) Galerella nigrata: Good views of one at the waterhole at Erongo Wilderness Lodge on our last morning. Amazingly, this striking beast has only recently been described as a separate species. It is known only from the granitic inselbergs of western Namibia, north of Spitzkoppe. Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo: Good views of a couple of large bands at Etosha, including the extremely tame and inquisitive band in the compound at Namutoni. Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus: Encountered on several occasions along the roadside and in the Mahango Game Reserve and Erongo Mountains, but strangely absent at Etosha. Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops: Several small troops by the Kunene River, in the Mahango Game Reserve and at Nxamaseri Lodge. Cape Fur Seal (Afro-Australian Fur Seal) Arctocephalus pusillus: About 10 off the ocean beach at Walvis Bay. 37 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

38 THE BIRD OF THE TRIP 1 st Pel s Fishing Owl 2 nd Herero Chat =3 rd Verreaux s Eagle Owl =3 rd Southern Carmine Bee-eater =5 th Secretarybird =5 th Cinderella Waxbill =7 th Bronze-winged Courser =7 th Rufous-bellied Tit =9 th Martial Eagle =9 th African Fish Eagle SPECIES RECORDED IN ANGOLA (56) Little Grebe Reed Cormorant African Darter Grey Heron Goliath Heron Great Egret Little Egret Yellow-billed Egret Western Cattle Egret Squacco Heron Green-backed Heron Black-crowned Night-Heron White-backed Night-Heron Hamerkop African Openbill Egyptian Goose Eurasian Hobby Red-necked Spurfowl Black Crake Three-banded Plover Blacksmith Lapwing Common Sandpiper Common Greenshank Black-winged Stilt Water Thick-knee Grey-headed Gull Whiskered Tern White-winged Tern African Skimmer Cape Turtle Dove Laughing Dove Rosy-faced Lovebird Grey Go-away-bird Coppery-tailed Coucal African Barred Owlet (heard) Verreaux s Eagle Owl Common Swift African Palm-Swift Pied Kingfisher Giant Kingfisher Madagascar Bee-eater African Hoopoe Violet Woodhoopoe African Grey Hornbill Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Greater Honeyguide (heard) Wire-tailed Swallow Red-breasted Swallow Fork-tailed Drongo African Red-eyed Bulbul African Pied Wagtail Swamp Boubou Meves s Starling White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Chestnut Weaver Red-billed Quelea 38 Birdquest: Namibia & the Okavango 2011

39 Namibia & the Okavango : 9 26 November 2011 Photos by Derek Scott European Honey- Buzzard at Gammans sewage works Gray s Lark in the desert near Walvis Bay Karoo Scrub- Robin at Namibgrens Suricate (Meerkat) in the desert near Walvis Bay Rockrunner at Namibgrens Rüppell s Korhaan in the desert near Walvis Bay

40 Namibia & the Okavango : 9 26 November 2011 Photos by Derek Scott Red- necked Phalarope at Walvis Bay White- tailed Shrike at Rustig Toko Lodge Benguela Long- billed Lark near Uis Angolan Epauletted Fruit Bat at Kunene River Lodge Rufous- cheeked Nightjar near Rustig Toko Lodge Rufous- tailed Palm- Thrush at Kunene River Lodge

41 Namibia & the Okavango : 9 26 November 2011 Photos by Derek Scott Verreaux s Eagle Owl near Kunene River Lodge Spike- heeled Lark at Etosha Bronze- winged Courser at Etosha Greater Kestrel at Etosha Kori Bustard at Etosha Immature male Harlequin Quail at Etosha

42 Namibia & the Okavango : 9 26 November 2011 Photos by Derek Scott Black- faced Babbler at Roy s Camp Northern Black Korhaan at Etosha Young male Lion at Etosha Lesser Moorhen at Rundu sewage works Lioness at Etosha Common Reedbuck in the Mahango Game Reserve

43 Namibia & the Okavango : 9 26 November 2011 Photos by Derek Scott Wattled Cranes in the Mahango Game Reserve Slaty Egret on the floodplain at Nxamaseri Long- toed Lapwing on the floodplain at Nxamaseri Sunset over the Okavango at Nxamaseri Southern Carmine Bee- eater at Nxamaseri Rosy- faced Lovebirds at Erongo Wilderness Lodge

44 Namibia & the Okavango : 9 26 November 2011 Photos by Conny Palm Herero Chat at Spreetshoogte Pass Violet Woodhoopoe at Kunene River Lodge African Cuckoo at Etosha Marsh Owl near Rustig Toko Lodge Aardwolf near Rustig Toko Lodge Black Rhinoceros at Etosha

45 Namibia & the Okavango : 9 26 November 2011 Photos by Conny Palm African Fish Eagle at Nxamaseri Southern White- faced Scops- Owl at Etosha Black- shouldered Kite at Etosha Pel s Fishing Owl at Nxamaseri Crested Francolin at Onguma Bush Camp Orange- breasted Bush- Shrike in the Mahango Game Reserve