ULTIMATE SOUTH AFRICA
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- Tracy Copeland
- 5 years ago
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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate South Africa ULTIMATE SOUTH AFRICA Main Tour Duration: 19 days Northern Cape Pre-Tour Extension: 8 days Group Size Limit: 12 Tour Category: Easy for the most part, occasionally Moderate Over 180 species are endemic or virtually endemic to Southern Africa, the highest concentration in the continent, and the great majority of these are to be found inside South Africa itself. Many are confined to the arid and semi-arid western regions of South Africa or to the unique fynbos and karoo habitats of the southwest. Others have evolved in isolation in remote mountainous regions, whilst a few are relict species found only in tiny restricted areas in out-of-the-way places, virtually unknown until recently. Not only is South Africa extremely rich in endemic birds, but there is a host of more widespread species and also a surprisingly diverse selection of large mammals. Not surprisingly, South Africa is nowadays one of the world s top birding destinations and this extraordinary tour is the most comprehensive itinerary in South Africa available, Cape Sugarbird (Michael Hodgson) allowing participants to see an unsurpassed variety of the country s endemics and other specialities. With good roads and accommodation, and a quiet, rural atmosphere over much of the country, South Africa offers some of the most exciting and most comfortable birding experiences in Africa. Our South African birding adventure begins in Cape Town, justly famous for its dramatic mountainous scenery, including the famous Table Mountain that dominates the city. From the lofty sea-cliffs near the Cape of Good Hope, the sight of the South Atlantic meeting the Indian Ocean in all its seabird-thronged turbulence is something truly memorable. To make it even more memorable, there are often a few Southern Right Whales present at this time of year, while African (or Jackass) Penguins nest along some sections of the coastline. Around Cape Town we can also explore the strange fynbos, the macchialike, Mediterranean-style vegetation characteristic of the Southwestern Cape which holds many endemic birds, such as the spectacular Cape Sugarbird, the impressive Cape Rockjumper and the secretive Victorin s Warbler. Countless thousands of seabirds occur in the area and a deep-sea pelagic cruise to the fishing grounds off Cape Town is one of the great birding spectacles of Southern Africa. Here we can marvel at several species of albatrosses, attractive Great Shearwaters and Sabine s Gulls, and many other seabirds. Further afield, we will pass through the Overberg, with its elegant Blue Cranes and stately Denham s Bustards, and then explore the attractive coastal reserve of De Hoop, where the localized Southern Tchagra will be high on our want list. We will make our way back to Cape Town via Ceres, from where we will explore the amazing Little (or Tanqua) Karoo, where Karoo Larks and Karoo Eremomelas reside. During the second part of the tour we will move eastwards to Kwazulu-Natal. Here we shall visit the mist forest and rolling grasslands of the Natal Midlands where colourful Knysna Turacos, aptly named Chorister Robins and secretive Knysna Woodpeckers will vie for our attention with Cape Parrots and Orange Thrushes. Next we climb high into the mighty Drakensberg and enter the Kingdom of Lesotho. This small, mountainous country, most of which lies over 2000m, possesses truly spectacular scenery. Situated amongst the peaks of the lofty Drakensberg range, southern Lesotho is reached by only a few roads that climb over breathtaking mountain passes and the winding road that we will take reaches an altitude of nearly 3250m. Here we will search for a suite of montane endemics including Drakensberg (or Orange-breasted) Rockjumper, Mountain Pipit and Drakensberg Siskin. After leaving the Drakensberg behind, we descend to the coastal lowlands of Kwazulu-Natal, taking in the endangered Spotted Ground Thrush as we go, and work our way northwards to the lagoons and almost impenetrable, liana-choked forests of the Lake St Lucia area. Here, endemics such as Brown Scrub-Robin, Rudd s Apalis and Woodward s Batis will keep us busy before we move on to the bird-rich bushveld, lakes and papyrus swamps of Mkhuze Game Reserve. Although we will already have seen a number of impressive mammals during the tour, Mkhuze is a mammalogist s paradise, with White Rhinoceros, the
2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate South Africa Black Harrier and Southern Black Korhaan (Nik Borrow) beautiful Nyala (a relative of the Kudu) and Hippopotamus being among the more spectacular creatures. Yet more avian delights await us at Mkhuze too, including African Broadbill, Neergaard s Sunbird and the delightful Pinkthroated Twinspot. Our next destination will be the rolling grasslands of the southern Transvaal (now known as Mpumalanga province). One of the most threatened habitats in Southern Africa, the endemic bird species that live there, such as the splendid Blue Korhaan and Rudd s and Botha s Larks, are now in a precarious situation. This beautiful area of rocky ridges, pristine grasslands, small lakes, marshy meadows (with delightful Long-tailed Widowbirds bounding over them) and gullies choked with forest is bird rich and is a taste of what the whole region must have looked like a century ago. We will then move north to explore the dry country of the northern Transvaal (now known as Limpopo province). Here we will make a special effort to see the dashing Taita Falcon (although widespread, this falcon is seldom seen anywhere!) and the endemic Short-clawed Lark, and will visit one of the most productive forests in the country where Black-fronted Bush Shrike will be high on our agenda, and where we have a second chance for the rare Cape Parrot. By the time we come to the end of our South African odyssey we will have explored the whole range of this extraordinary country s diverse habitats and seen a remarkable variety of birds, including many of the most sought-after in Africa. The pre-tour extension will first take us to the dry country around Kimberley in the northeastern part of the huge Cape province, where we will be looking for the elusive Orange River Francolin and the fairly recentlydescribed Kimberly Pipit, and then onwards towards the desert region in the far west through which the Orange River flows, creating a green ribbon of lush vegetation in an otherwise stark, moonscapelike habitat. Here, Northern Black Korhaan, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Karoo Longbilled Lark will be among the many new species. We will follow this river as it meanders towards the South Atlantic, cutting through deep gorges and canyons and creating spectacular waterfalls, pausing to look for the secretive Namaqua Warbler and Orange River White-eye as we go. We will then veer south to follow the Pre-Cambrian river bed of the Orange River which has left behind an extensive valley of rolling red sand dunes, so reminiscent of the Kalahari to the north. This arid region is called Bushmanland and stretches for hundreds of kilometres to the coast. In this area, which in earlier times was the hunting grounds of many sects of the San tribe, we will seek out a number of dry country specialities including the spectacular Ludwig s Bustard, Karoo Korhaan, the rare Red Lark and, in the Port Nolloth area, the little-known Barlow s Lark. Travelling southwards, we will search for the rather elusive Protea Canary before arriving at the Atlantic coast at Lambert s Bay, where we will marvel at the spectacular colony of Cape Gannets which is situated just in front of the town. Further south we will look for Cape Long-billed Lark and the spectacular Black Harrier before we eventually reach the scenic city of Cape Town. Birdquest has operated tours to South Africa since Itinerary Day 1 The tour begins this afternoon at Cape Town, where we will stay for four nights. Days 2-4 Cape Town is famous for its fine natural setting close to the magnificent scenery of Table Mountain and the Cape of Good Hope. This wind-swept area at the meeting point of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans does not possess a very diverse landbird fauna but a high proportion is endemic. We will be searching in particular for some of the more elusive of the Cape s endemics, including the extremely skulking Knysna Warbler and Cape Siskin. The area is famous for its botanical richness (indeed, the Cape Floristic Kingdom comprises a unique floral region with a diversity far in excess of temperate regions in the Northern Hemisphere). A family of plants characteristic of this region are the proteas, and, wherever there are concentrations of their beautiful and spectacular flowers, we should find Cape Sugarbirds, which resemble gigantic sunbirds, and the gorgeous Orangebreasted Sunbird. Amongst the other species we should find while exploring the scrubby vegetation around Cape Point, at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens or in the woodland at the foot of Table Mountain are Hamerkop, Black-headed Heron, Egyptian Goose, Yellow-billed and Black-shouldered Kites, the attractive Jackal Buzzard, Steppe Buzzard (sometimes split from Common), Common Kestrel (again, the form found here is sometimes regarded as a separate species, Rock Kestrel), Cape Francolin, Helmeted Guineafowl, Speckled and African Olive Pigeons, Cape Turtle, Laughing and Namaqua Doves, Spotted Eagle-Owl, Alpine, Little and African Black Swifts, Speckled and perhaps White-backed Mousebirds, Rock Martin, Greater Striped Swallow, Black Saw-wing, Cape Bulbul, Sombre Greenbul, Olive Thrush, Cape Robin-Chat, Familiar Chat, Cape Grassbird, Karoo Prinia, the attractive Cape Batis, Pied and House Crows (the latter a relatively recent arrival), Common Fiscal, Southern Boubou, Cape White-eye, Southern (or Lesser) Double-collared and Malachite Sunbirds, Cape Sparrow, Cape and Southern Masked Weavers, Southern Red and Yellow Bishops, and Cape and Brimstone Canaries. A highlight of our time at the coast will be a visit to a colony of African (or Jackass) Penguins, and as these dapper birds wander unconcerned around us we will come to appreciate the appropriateness of their vernacular name as they give their braying calls. We also have an excellent chance of finding a huge Southern Right Whale loafing offshore in False Bay and, whilst looking offshore, we may be able to pick up a few pelagic species such as White-chinned Petrel, Sooty Shearwater, Cape Gannet or even a Shy Albatross. We will also be searching the coastline for Bank Cormorant, a Southern African endemic
3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate South Africa that has declined in numbers by over 60% in recent years, as well as Cape and Crowned Cormorants (both Southern African endemics) and here or in nearby wetlands we should also find Little Egret, Glossy and African Sacred Ibises, Egyptian Goose, South African Shelduck, Yellowbilled Duck, Cape and Redbilled Teals, Cape Shoveler, Common Moorhen, Redknobbed Coot, Pied Avocet, Black-winged Stilt, African Black Oystercatcher, Cape (split from Kelp) and smart Hartlaub s Gulls, Common, Sandwich and Greater Crested Terns, Levaillant s and Zitting Cisticolas, and Little Rush, African Reed and Lesser Swamp Warblers. Cape Town is also famous for the concentrations of seabirds that can be found offshore. Weather permitting (there is a low risk of cancellation), our boat will take us out to the trawling grounds which lie about nautical miles offshore in the cold Benguela Current. Shortly after leaving port the first seabirds to join the boat will be White-chinned Petrel, Sooty Shearwater and Cape Gannet. Further from shore an occasional albatross will inspect our wake and as we reach deeper waters they may be almost continually in view. We are quite likely to spot a trawler from the cloud of birds following it and once one has been sighted we will steam Northern Black Korhaan (Michael Hodgson) directly for its wake. The commonest birds associated with the trawlers are Blackbrowed, Shy, Atlantic Yellownosed and Indian Yellownosed Albatrosses, Cape and White-chinned Petrels, Great and Sooty Shearwaters and Cape Gannets. We should also find smaller numbers of Southern and Northern Giant Petrels, Wilson s and Black-bellied Storm-Petrels, Arctic Skuas (or Parasitic Jaegers), Subantarctic Skuas, Arctic Terns (newly arrived from its breeding grounds) and dainty Sabine s Gulls. There are literally thousands of birds around some of the boats and seeing seabirds in these numbers, with huge albatrosses repeatedly sweeping past our vessel at very close range, is an unforgettable experience. We shall also be looking out for less common species such as Wandering Albatross and European Storm-Petrel and, if conditions are sufficiently windy, Soft-plumaged and Great-winged Petrels. The Cape peninsula itself gives shelter to False Bay and here we may well come across a pod of Southern Right Whales loafing at the water s surface, while there is also a slim chance of a Bryde s Whale or a Humpback Whale. Day 5 This morning we will leave Cape Town and head eastwards into the Hottentots Holland Mountains, a dramatically rugged, windswept range which receives the brunt of the southeasterly gales that are so frequent in the Cape during the winter months. Here we will be looking in particular for the superb Cape Rockjumper and the colourful but sometimes elusive Victorin s Warbler, and we are also likely to find Whitenecked Raven and Neddicky. From here, we continue eastwards into the rolling grasslands of the Overberg and on to Swellendam for an overnight stay. As we head east, we will be delighted by the large numbers of elegant Blue Cranes, South Africa s national bird, in the roadside fields, and we will visit some areas of grassland and cultivation to search for the localized Agulhas Longbilled Lark, Agulhas Clapper Lark and the streaky Cape form of the minuscule Cloud Cisticola, a bird that seems to vanish into the heavens during its song flight! We will also explore the scenic and productive De Hoop National Park which is home to the endemic Southern Tchagra. Whilst looking for this skulker, we are likely to come across a few other new species for the trip, such as Common Ostrich, Great Crested, Black-necked and Little Grebes, African Darter, Great White Pelican, Crowned and Blacksmith Lapwings, White-rumped Swift, Red-capped Lark, Pearlbreasted and White-throated Swallows, Capped Wheatear and the stocky White-throated Canary. We will also spend time admiring the mammals of the park which include attractive Bonteboks and the endangered Cape Mountain Zebra. In the surrounding grasslands we should find stately Denham s Bustards (with their spectacular chrysanthemum display) and with luck the smaller Karoo Korhaan. We also have a slim chance of encountering the rare Hottentot Buttonquail, which is perhaps Southern Africa s most difficult endemic! Day 6 Today, after some final birding in the Swellendam region, we shall drive to Ceres for an overnight stay. En route we will visit some relict patches of forest which hold the elusive Forest Buzzard and which give us another opportunity to try for the skulking Knysna Warbler. We may arrive at Ceres in time for some initial exploration. Day 7 Ceres is situated on the edge of the desert region of the Northern Cape and within easy reach of the Little (or Tanqua) Karoo. Here, we will focus our attention on the starkly beautiful southern section of the Little Karoo where arid, stony plains, bisected by sandy wadis dotted with thorn trees, give rise to shimmering mirages during the heat of the day. Here, we hope to find two of the more elusive specialities, including the somewhat nomadic Blackeared Sparrowlark and the sparsely-distributed Karoo Eremomela. Southern Grey Tits and Karoo Larks inhabit the more vegetated areas, whilst rocky slopes hold the perky little Fairy Flycatcher, Layard s Tit-Babbler and Pale-winged Starling. Other species we may find include Booted Eagle, Southern Chanting Goshawk, Greybacked Sparrowlark, Tractrac and Karoo Chats, Karoo Scrub-Robin, Greybacked Cisticola, Pririt Batis, Bokmakierie, African Pied Starling, Yellow Canary and Cape Bunting. In some years, the undistinguished Lark-like Bunting makes it this far south, and with luck we will also find the superb Black Harrier and Namaqua Sandgrouse. We will then head back to Cape Town, from where we will take an early evening flight to Durban on the Kwazulu-Natal coast for an overnight stay. Day 8 South of Durban and inland from the coast lies the heavily forested Oribi Gorge, a locality where the very local
4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate South Africa and uncommon endemic Knysna Woodpecker occurs at the northernmost edge of its range. We may also find the magnificent African Crowned Eagle here, as well as African Goshawk, Tambourine Dove, the stunning African Emerald Cuckoo, Knysna Turaco, the beautiful Narina Trogon (which is particularly common at Oribi), Trumpeter and Crowned Hornbills, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Dark-capped Bulbul, Whitestarred Robin, Bar-throated and Yellow-breasted Apalises, Green-backed Camaroptera, African Dusky and Southern Black Flycatchers, Blackheaded Oriole, Black-bellied Starling and Greater Doublecollared, Eastern Olive, Amethyst and Collared Sunbirds. We will then move further inland to explore some relict patches of natural mist-belt grassland where we have a fair chance of finding Blue Swallow, a supremely elegant, steel-blue hirundine that nests in Aardvark burrows in pristine grasslands and is South Africa s most threatened bird. We may also see Longcrested Eagle, Southern Anteating-Chat, Grey Crowned Crane and Wailing Cisticola in this area before we continue on to the Sani Pass for a three nights stay. Days 9-10 During these two days we shall explore the grasslands, small lakes and marshes, alpine scrub, high altitude woodland and high Cape Rockjumpers (Michael Hodgson) peaks of the magnificent eastern Drakensberg (which here rise to over 3000m) with their massive craggy spikes and rock buttresses. The mountains form an impressive backdrop as we look for such special birds as the strange Southern Bald Ibis, the huge Cape Vulture and the rare and endangered Wattled Crane. On our first full day we will transfer to four-wheel-drive vehicles in order to ascend a precipitous and scenic mountain pass amongst the loftiest peaks of the high Drakensberg and then continue into Lesotho. Known as the Sani Pass, at nearly 3250m it is the highest road in the eastern Drakensberg. On the lower slopes we will look for the rare and localized Gurney s Sugarbird around flowering proteas, and other species we may see in this zone include Red-throated Wryneck, Bush Blackcap (a species which is variously considered a babbler or a bulbul), African Stonechat, the stunning Buff-streaked Chat (surely one of the best wheatears of all), Cape Rock Thrush and Streaky-headed Seed-eater. As we climb further, stands of proteas and grasslands, which are thronged with displaying Long-tailed Widowbirds at this season, give way to crags and cliffs with open alpine meadows bisected by fast flowing streams where Drakensberg (or Orangebreasted) Rockjumpers should be seen bounding from rock to rock along the roadside. Eventually, passports in hand, we will cross the border into Lesotho. It is not unusual to see snow still on the higher peaks, even at this time of year, and the local inhabitants scale these mountain passes astride small ponies and wrapped in colourful blankets. Sentinel Rock Thrushes and Sickle-winged Chats are common, and we should also find the highly localized Mountain Pipit and the often secretive Yellow-tufted (or African Rock) Pipit, while Drakensberg Siskin is another local speciality. A few pairs of Lammergeiers (or Bearded Vultures) nest on the towering basalt ramparts of the high plateau and we may even see this magnificent raptor at the nest, while with luck we will encounter Black Stork, another cliff-nesting species with a breeding outpost in Southern Africa. Large mammals are scarce in Lesotho (most have been eaten!), but we should see one high-altitude speciality, the endearing Sloggett s (or Ice) Rat. During our visit to the Kwazulu-Natal uplands we will also visit some remnant mist forest with its tall yellow-wood and stinkwood trees heavily festooned with old man s beard lichens. These cool, damp forests are good for Red-chested, Black and Klaas s Cuckoos, Olive Woodpecker, Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler, the skulking Barratt s Warbler, Lazy Cisticola, the gorgeous but elusive Orange Ground Thrush, Chorister Robin-Chat (a species which can produce near-perfect imitations of almost any other, causing some confusion at times), Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Black-backed Puffback, the endemic Olive Bush Shrike, Forest Canary, Bronze Mannikin, African Firefinch and sometimes Swee Waxbill. With luck we will also encounter a party of endangered Cape Parrots flying over the forest, attracting attention with their raucous calls, but while we may hear the moaning calls of Buff-spotted Flufftails we shall count ourselves very fortunate if we see one of these ultraskulking little crakes. Other species that we should find in this region include Longtailed Cormorant, Grey Heron, Great Egret, Hadeda Ibis, White-backed Duck, Secretary Bird, African Harrier-Hawk, Lanner, African Wattled Lapwing, Giant Kingfisher, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Drakensberg Prinia (split from Karoo), Wing-snapping Cisticola, Cape Crow, African (or Grassveld) Pipit, Cape (or Orange-throated) Longclaw, Cape Wagtail, Red-winged Starling, Pin-tailed Whydah, Fan-tailed and Red-collared Widowbirds, Common Waxbill and Southern Greyheaded Sparrow, while we could also encounter two or three of the scarcer species such as Black, Little or Rufouschested Sparrowhawks, Red-necked Spurfowl, Natal Francolin, Black-winged Lapwing and Half-collared Kingfisher. Large mammals in the area include Common Reedbuck, Mountain Reedbuck, the handsome but endangered Oribi, Blesbok and Black Wildebeeste. Day 11 This morning we shall make a stop at a small nature reserve which is excellent for a variety of dry-country species, including Natal Francolin and Crested Barbet, before driving to Eshowe for an overnight stay. Virtually in Eshowe is the small Dhlinza Forest reserve, which is an excellent site for the globally endangered and elusive Spotted Ground Thrush, which we have a good chance of finding this evening. Day 12 This morning we shall drive to Saint Lucia for an overnight stay. The estuary mouth is full of hippos and crocodiles, although fortunately they rarely wander into the nearby village of Saint Lucia itself! Where Lake Saint Lucia enters the Indian Ocean there is an area of dense coastal forest. We
5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate South Africa will wander along the trails through the coastal forest, looking for roving bird parties and the more skulking inhabitants of the area. The specialities are Green Coucal (or Green Malkoha, which keeps itself remarkably well hidden in the canopy), Brown Scrub-Robin, Rudd s Apalis, Woodward s Batis and the secretive Green Twinspot, and we will make a special effort to find all of these. Amongst the other species we may find here are African Green Pigeon, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, White-eared Barbet, Yellowrumped Tinkerbird, Squaretailed Drongo, Terrestrial Brownbul, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Red-capped Robin-Chat, Orange-breasted Bush Shrike, Dark-backed and Thick-billed Weavers, and Red-backed Mannikin. The estuary, lakes and damp grassy areas hold Pinkbacked Pelican, Purple and Goliath Herons, African Spoonbill, Woolly-necked Stork, African Fish Eagle, Brown Snake Eagle, Black Crake, African Jacana, Grey-headed Gull, Caspian Tern, Pied and Malachite Kingfishers, Brown-throated Martin, Red-breasted Swallow, Rattling, Rufouswinged and Croaking Cisticolas, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Southern Brownthroated Weaver and, with luck, Southern Banded Snake Eagle. At dusk we can look for Swamp (or Natal) Nightjar. Mammals are also prominent and include species such as Common Blue Crane (Michael Hodgson) Waterbuck, Kudu, Eland and White Rhinoceros. Day 13 After some final birding in the Saint Lucia area we will drive northwards to the Mkhuze area for a two nights stay. During the journey we shall stop in an area of bush and farmland to search for Lemon-breasted Canary amongst the much commoner Yellow-fronted Canaries, and we may also see Arrowmarked Babbler and Redbilled Firefinch. Day 14 Mkhuze Game Reserve has the highest recorded number of bird species for any area in Kwazulu-Natal. On entering the reserve the reason for this faunistic diversity becomes obvious, for one can then appreciate the wide range of habitats that exist within a comparatively short distance of each other. Rocky ridges covered in flowering aloes give way to grassland dotted with trees and then to thick acacia woodland and specialized sand forest. This special habitat is home to some of the most prized birds in the park, namely African Broadbill (probably easier to see here than anywhere else in Africa, but nevertheless hard to find at times), the highly localized Neergaard s Sunbird and the delightful Pinkthroated Twinspot. Further into the reserve is a large area of swamps and lakes. Birding here is very exciting and amongst the large number of species we may encounter are Intermediate Egret, African Openbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Spur-winged Goose, White-faced Whistling Duck, White-backed and Lappetfaced Vultures, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Tawny and Wahlberg s Eagles, Bateleur, Black-bellied Korhaan, the comically bizarre Crested Guineafowl, Water Thickknee, Common and Marsh Sandpipers, Ruff, Common Greenshank, Whiskered and White-winged Terns, Redeyed Dove, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Purple-crested Turaco, Diederik Cuckoo, Burchell s Coucal, African Palm Swift, African Pygmy and Striped Kingfishers, Little Bee-eater, Lilac-breasted Roller, African Hoopoe, Green Woodhoopoe, Common Scimitarbill, Southern Yellowbilled Hornbill, Black-collared Barbet, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Cardinal and Goldentailed Woodpeckers, Lesser Honeyguide, Sabota and Rufous-naped Larks, Lesser Striped and Barn Swallows, Black Cuckooshrike, Forktailed Drongo, Southern Black Tit, Eastern Nicator, Whitebrowed and White-throated Robin-Chats, White-browed and Bearded Scrub-Robins, Long-billed Crombec, Redfaced and Rattling Cisticolas, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Grey Tit-Flycatcher, Ashy and Pale Flycatchers, African Paradise Flycatcher, Chinspot Batis, African Pied Wagtail, Brown-crowned Tchagra, White-crowned Helmet- Shrike, Gorgeous Bush Shrike (which certainly lives up to its name), Grey-headed Bush Shrike (almost as good), Violet-backed, Wattled and Cape Glossy Starlings, Purplebanded, White-bellied and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds, Yellow-throated Petronia, Spectacled, Village, Lesser Masked and Yellow Weavers, White-winged Widowbird, Blue Waxbill and Goldenbreasted Bunting. We should also encounter one or two of the reserve s scarcer or more elusive species, such as African Cuckoo Hawk, Lizard Buzzard, Grey Penduline Tit, Kurrichane Thrush, Stierling s Wren-Warbler, Bushveld Pipit and Grey Waxbill. Unfortunately the park gates shut soon after dark, but we will make the most of our narrow window of opportunity and look out for Square-tailed and Fierynecked Nightjars and, with luck, African Wood Owl. Mammals are common in the reserve and include Nyala, Kudu, Common Duiker, Impala, Blue Wildebeest, Burchell s Zebra, Warthog, Giraffe, Hippopotamus and Vervet Monkey. We should also see the magnificent White Rhinoceros and perhaps the cantankerous Black Rhinoceros. Day 15 After some final birding in the Mkhuze area we will cross over into the Mpumalanga (formerly Transvaal) and work our way up through the grassy uplands to Wakkerstroom for a two nights stay. Day 16 Of all the diverse habitats we will have travelled through, the upland grasslands of the central plateau of South Africa are the most threatened, and as a direct consequence its endemic birds are now endangered. The area we will be birding in is one of the few extensive stretches of this highveld habitat left and is typified by small wetlands ( vleis ) surrounded by lush, marshy meadows, rugged, rocky peaks and open stretches of pristine grassland. This bird-rich area has some exciting endemic species, in particular Blue and Barrow s Korhaans (the latter split from White-bellied Bustard), both Rudd s and Botha s Larks, and Yellow-breasted Pipit. Other birds we should see include Hottentot Teal, Southern Pochard, African Marsh Harrier, Red-winged and Grey-winged Francolins, African Purple Swamp-hen, African Snipe, Spotted Thickknee, Banded Martin, Pinkbilled and Spike-heeled Larks, South African Cliff Swallow, Mountain Wheatear, African Quailfinch and perhaps also
6 6 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate South Africa African Rail and Orangebreasted Waxbill. At dusk we will spend some time overlooking a grassy wetland where we may see hunting Marsh Owls or perhaps a Spotted Eagle-Owl. Day 17 After some final birding in the Wakkerstroom area we will drive to Lydenburg, situated in mountainous eastern Mpumalanga for an overnight stay. Day 18 This morning we will visit mountainous country not far from Lydenburg where some dramatic cliffs tower over the road. In recent years, the spectacular Taita Falcon has been regularly recorded here. Although widespread (ranging from Kenya to South Africa) this rare species is very seldom seen anywhere in its range and this is its sole known South African locality. Although small, Taita Falcons have the stocky build of a large falcon and an incredibly fast and acrobatic flight, allowing them to catch prey as fast as Alpine Swifts on the wing. We have an excellent chance of finding this superb bird here and, as well as seeing more Cape Vultures, we may well find the localized Striped Pipit as well as Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Mountain Wagtail, Mocking Cliff Chat and Cinnamonbreasted Bunting. We will then drive to Magoebaskloof for an overnight stay, but after dropping off our luggage at Southern Bald Ibises (Nik Borrow) our hotel we will continue on to Polokwane Game Reserve for the afternoon. Our main reason for visiting this area of northern Transvaal is to look for the little-known and localized endemic Shortclawed Lark, which is present here alongside the more common Rufous-naped Lark. As we scour the dry scrubby grasslands we will be listening for the drawn-out whistle which will alert us to our quarry as it performs one of its acrobatic display flights. Whilst searching for the lark, we will come across a number of species associated with more arid areas, such as Ashy Tit, Chestnut-vented Tit- Babbler, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Black-chested Prinia, Marico Flycatcher, Magpie Shrike, the stunning Crimson-breasted Shrike, Burchell s Starling, White-browed Sparrow- Weaver, Great Sparrow, Black-throated Canary, Greenwinged Pytilia, Violet-eared and Black-faced Waxbills, and Scaly-feathered and Cut-throat Finches. Day 19 The lush and misty Afromontane forests around Magoebaskloof mark the northern edge of the range for several endemics. They are arguably the most birdrich forests in South Africa and hold almost a full suite of eastern forest birds, giving us an excellent chance to find any of the mist-belt forest species that we have not already seen. In particular it is an excellent area for the notoriously difficult Cape Parrot, and is also home to a good population of Orange Ground Thrushes. In addition, Yellow-streaked Greenbul and the colourful Black-fronted Bush-shrike, two species that we will not have come across so far, occur in good numbers. Later we will drive towards Johannesburg. On the way we will make a stops at a diamond mine where we have a good chance of finding White-fronted Beeeater and in a grassy area where we may see Melodious Lark (if they have started singing, which will depend on the rains) and Northern Black Korhaan. We will reach Johannesburg, where the tour ends, in the early evening. Northern Cape Pre-Tour Extension Itinerary Day 1 The extension begins this morning at Kimberley in Cape Province, where we will stay overnight. In the 1990s, Dr Richard Liversidge s studies in Kimberley of Africa s notoriously difficult pipits led to the description of two new species. One, the Long-tailed Pipit, is thought to be a winter visitor to the Kimberley region (from putative breeding areas in Central Africa), and is not present at the time of our visit. The other, the Kimberley Pipit, is now known to be an endemic resident in the Kimberley area, and will be our prime target as we explore a game reserve on the outskirts of Kimberley. Towards dusk we will adjourn to the Big Hole (a huge diamond mining excavation) and scan for Bradfield s Swifts amongst the commoner species. Other interesting species we are likely find include Doublebanded Courser, Eastern Clapper Lark and Desert Cisticola, while if we are lucky we will find the very localized and elusive Orange River Francolin. Black Wildebeest and Springbok are also present in the area. Day 2 After some final birding around Kimberley we will head west to the Witsand Nature Reserve for an overnight stay. Here an area of gleaming white sand dunes contrasts with the normally red Kalahari sands. After dinner we will go out on a night drive and, as well as the bizarre but delightful Springhare, a mammal that behaves more like a small wallaby than a rodent, we could also see Bat-eared and Cape Foxes, and if lucky Small-spotted Genet or South African Porcupine. Day 3 Before leaving Witsand we will visit a sandgrouse drinking pool where we should see Namaqua Sandgrouse, and if in luck Burchell s Sandgrouse as well. Later we will drive westwards to Upington for an overnight stay. On the way we will have the chance to look for some more dry country birds, including Swallow-tailed Beeeater, Chat Flycatcher, Redheaded Finch and perhaps Short-toed Rock Thrush. Day 4 This morning we will visit Spitskop Nature Reserve, an area of dry bush and semidesert surrounding a small but impressive kopje (rocky outcrop). We will be looking in particular for the stunning Northern Black Korhaan and the diminutive Stark s Lark (although the latter is very erratic in its occurrence). Other interesting species in the area include Yellowbellied Eremomela, the perky Rufous-eared Warbler and Lark-like Bunting. The reserve supports a variety of mammals, including, the stately Gemsbok and the magnificent Eland. After breakfast we will follow the winding course of the Orange River towards Augrabies National Park. At the Augrabies Falls the river is forced through a dramatic series of gorges where, as well as the falls themselves, there are turbulent, boiling rapids over a distance of several kilometres. The strip
7 7 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Ultimate South Africa of cultivation on either side of the river is rich and luxuriant but just a short distance away begins a stark and arid landscape. A speciality of the area is the shy and furtive Namaqua Warbler, which inhabits the reed beds around the river s tributaries and backwaters. We will also be looking for Karoo Thrush (split from Olive), while amongst the more widespread species we should find a few other dry country species such as White-backed Mousebird, Acacia Pied Barbet, African Red-eyed Bulbul and Dusky Sunbird. Around the restaurant Cape Robin-Chats, Palewinged Starlings and Orange River White-eyes (split from Cape) have become remarkably tame and it is necessary to keep a watchful eye on food and drink. Peregrines breed within the national park and Verreaux s Eagles may sometimes be seen hunting Rock Hyraxes over the canyon, where swifts and martins wheel overhead. Later we will head westwards to Pofadder for a two nights stay. The landscape becomes ever more arid, and as we approach Pofadder we may well find Karoo Korhaan, while the huge communal nests of the Social Weaver, built around and smothering trees and telephone poles alike, are a characteristic feature of the area. Taita Falcons and Alpine Swifts (Nik Borrow) Day 5 Most of today will be spent exploring the ancient bed of the Orange River. The backdrop to this wild habitat is weathered, flattopped mountains with scree, boulders and giant desert aloes. The flat, open gravel plains are covered in stunted desert shrubs and succulent euphorbias and the wadis have a slightly thicker growth of acacia shrubs and trees. Scattered over this vast area are bands of bright red, rolling sand dunes, some covered in short scrub, and it is here that we will look for the elusive Red Lark, a thrush-like bird with upperparts that match the colour of the sand dunes in which it lives. Other special birds we may encounter in this region are the huge Ludwig s Bustard, the enigmatic and seldom-seen Sclater s Lark, Cinnamon-breasted Warbler (which runs like a mouse amongst the scree slopes and boulder piles of the steeper slopes), Sociable Weaver, Black-headed Canary and possibly also the tiny Pygmy Falcon (often to be seen lurking close to Sociable Weavers nests), Burchell s Courser, Black-eared Sparrowlark or Damara Canary. More widespread species we should find include Greater Kestrel, and Fawn-coloured, Sabota (here of the form sometimes split off as Bradfield s Lark) and Karoo Long-billed Larks. A pre-dawn drive could produce Rufous-cheeked Nightjar or, if we are very lucky, Cape Eagle- Owl, and we may also see Bat-eared Fox. Day 6 After some final birding around Pofadder we will continue westwards to Port Nolloth on the Atlantic coast for an overnight stay. Day 7 Port Nolloth is situated in the diamond mining area of the Northern Cape, a desolate area reminiscent of Namibia s Skeleton Coast and home to the little known and highly localized Barlow s Lark (a species found only in a tiny area of coastal northwest South Africa and adjacent Namibia). With luck, we will also find the endangered Damara Tern along the shoreline. After looking for the lark we will head south on the long drive to the small port of Lamberts Bay in Western Cape province, where we will stay overnight. As we travel southwards the arid, semi-desert landscape that we have grown accustomed to gives way slowly to the greenery of the coastal fringe of the southwestern Cape region. We will stop along the way at a narrow gorge to seek out the localized Protea Seedeater and the shrikelike Fiscal Flycatcher. Upon arrival at Lamberts Bay we will visit a large colony of Cape Gannets that have taken up residence on the mainland, right on the edge of town, enjoying the spectacle of thousands of these handsome birds clustered in a tight mass on the ground whilst hundreds more sail overhead. Cormorants are common here, often resting on the rigging of old boats anchored in the harbour, and there are usually good numbers of Cape Fur Seals present. Day 8 Today we shall drive southeast to Cape Town for a four nights stay. (We will meet up with those arriving for the main tour late this afternoon at Cape Town. This is Day 1 of the main tour.) We will stop en route in the coastal fynbos and in open areas and wetlands. We will be looking in particular for the superb Black Harrier, the stunning Southern Black Korhaan, Cape Clapper and Cape Long-billed Larks, and Cape Penduline Tit (the region s smallest endemic). Other species that we may not find during the main tour include Greater and Lesser Flamingos, Common Quail (as usual, hard to see), Spotted Thick-knee, Common Ringed, Kittlitz s, Three-banded, White-fronted and Grey (or Black-bellied) Plovers, the exquisite Chestnut-banded Plover, Sanderling, Eurasian Whimbrel and European Beeeater. From time to time we may come across Steenbok and Grey Duiker feeding amidst the low scrub. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are of normal Birdquest standard throughout (although bathroom facilities are shared at Witsand). Road transport is by minibus. The roads are good, but there are some long drives. Walking: The walking effort is mostly easy, but there are a few longer walks. Climate: Rather variable. In interior South Africa and in lowland Kwazulu-Natal most days will be hot, dry and sunny. Overcast conditions are not uncommon and it may rain in Kwazulu-Natal. In the Southwestern Cape and in the Drakensberg conditions range from warm to cool, or even cold in the mountains. Overcast conditions are interspersed with sunny spells and it may rain. Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities are good. Part-Tour Option: Subject to space being available, we can accept bookings for any part of this itinerary (for example, Johannesburg to Cape Town or Durban to Johannesburg). Please contact us for further information.
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