UGANDA. 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Uganda. Shoebills, Albertine Rift endemics, Gorillas and Chimpanzees

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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Uganda UGANDA Shoebills, Albertine Rift endemics, Gorillas and Chimpanzees Tour Duration: 15 days Group Size Limit: 9 Tour Category: Easy for the most part, occasionally Moderate (and one optional fairly Demanding hike for African Green Broadbill) Winston Churchill described Uganda as a fairy tale land, calling it the Pearl of East Africa. Here the ancient kingdoms of Buganda, Bunyoro and Ankole flourished long before the first European explorers came in search of the source of the Nile. In colonial times it was regarded as the most beautiful and potentially the richest country in East Africa. Now, after many years of civil turbulence under Idi Amin and Milton Obote, Uganda has settled down once more under the rule of President Museveni and has rebuilt its important wildlife tourism industry. Uganda is indeed a beautiful country: a green and fertile land of high plateaus, luxuriant forests, papyrusfringed lakes and great swamps. It is also a land of contrasts. Here one can see the vast inland sea known as Eastern Lowland Gorillas (Nik Borrow) Lake Victoria, the source of the White Nile, and papyrus swamps where the bizarre and endangered Shoebill can still be found. On the open plains of Queen Elizabeth National Park, antelopes, buffalo and elephants can be watched against a backdrop of the mysterious Rwenzori range, Ptolemy s fabled Mountains of the Moon. In the west there are great forests which cover huge areas and are home to many Chimpanzees and Gorillas, as well as one of the most exciting selections of forest birds in Africa. This is a superb and diverse shorter tour to one of the richest countries in Africa for birds, appealing in particular to those who dream of seeing the amazing Shoebill, the gorgeous Green-breasted Pitta, the exciting forest species of the Albertine Rift and, of course, the incomparable Gorillas and Chimpanzees. We have distilled the best that this wonderful country can offer into a two-week format; you will not be disappointed! Our travels take us first to the shores of Lake Victoria around Entebbe, where we will look for the extraordinary Shoebill, then northeastwards to famous Murchison Falls National Park, where the White Nile flows into Lake Albert, an area very rich in birdlife. Here, we can admire the hordes of Hippopotamus and many other large mammals and also see a marvellous variety of birds, including Heuglin s Francolin, the spectacular Pennantwinged Nightjar, Rufoussided Broadbill and Puvel s Illadopsis. Heading southwards through western Uganda, we come to Kibale Forest in Kibale National Park, which is one of the best places in Africa to see Chimpanzees, as well as many forest birds, including the rare and elusive Greenbreasted Pitta. Continuing southwards past the Rwenzori Mountains we reach the open plains and impressive craters of Queen Elizabeth National Park with its rich array of large mammals, including Lion, African Elephant, numerous Hippos and Giant Hog, and marvellous array of birds, which include African Crake and Brown-chested Plover. Eventually we travel onwards to the remote southwestern corner of Uganda and the great Impenetrable Forest. Here the Gorillas have their stronghold and the forests are rich in bird species that are endemic to the Albertine Rift such as Short-tailed Warbler, Woodhouse s Antpecker and the elusive African Green Broadbill. Finally, we will visit the dry bush country, woodland, lakes and swamps around Lake Mburo, where we will look for the rare and localized Red-faced Barbet amongst others. Uganda is undoubtedly the friendliest country in East Africa and offers visitors the opportunity to experience unspoilt African wilderness at its best. Birdquest has operated tours to Uganda since Itinerary Day 1 The tour begins this morning at Entebbe, situated on the shores of Lake Victoria, where we will stay overnight. For those old enough to remember them,

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Uganda Shoebill (Nik Borrow) the name Entebbe brings to mind the infamous days of Idi Amin and the Israeli raid on the airport to free the hostages. Today there is little evidence of those troubled times and the gently rolling hills that slope down to the greatest lake in Africa have a timeless beauty that belies the troublesome past. After arrival we will visit the beautifully landscaped botanical gardens on the shores of Lake Victoria to look for the localized Orange Weaver (which nests in small numbers in the dense waterside vegetation) and later today we will visit Mabamba Swamp, adjacent to Lake Victoria, and take a boat trip through an extensive papyrus swamp where we will be wanting in particular to observe the strange Shoebill. Other likely species at Mabamba include White-breasted and Longtailed Cormorants, Little Egret, Squacco Heron, Hamerkop, African Open-billed Stork, Yellow-billed Duck, African Fish Eagle (with its call that is so evocative of the African wilderness), Long-toed Plover, Grey-headed Gull, Gull-billed and White-winged Terns, Pied and Giant Kingfishers, the tiny Malachite Kingfisher, Redfaced Cisticola, the confiding Swamp Flycatcher and Black-and-white Mannikin. We will also encounter a good variety of open country and woodland birds today, such as Western Cattle Egret, Black-headed Heron, Hadada Ibis, Yellow-billed Kite (split from Black), African Harrier- Hawk, Shikra, Lizard Buzzard, Palm-nut Vulture, Red-eyed Dove, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, African Green Pigeon, the impressive Great Blue Turaco, Eastern Grey Plantaineater (constantly uttering its strange call), White-browed Coucal, Mottled Spinetail, Little, White-rumped and African Palm Swifts, Speckled Mousebird, Woodland Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Crowned and African Pied Hornbills, the grotesquelooking Black-and-whitecasqued Hornbill, African Pied Wagtail, Angola Swallow, Dark-capped Bulbul (split from Common), African Thrush, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Grey-capped Warbler, Pied Crow, Splendid and Rüppell s Long-tailed Starlings, Olivebellied and Red-chested Sunbirds, Black-headed, Northern Brown-throated, Yellow-backed, Vieillot s Black and Slender-billed Weavers, Northern Grey-headed Sparrow, Bronze Mannikin and Yellow-fronted Canary. If we are lucky, we will even see the nomadic Weyns s Weaver. Day 2 Today we will drive through some attractive country on our way to Murchison (or Kabalega) Falls National Park where we will spend a total of three nights (the first at Kaniyo Pabida, the second at Sambiya River Lodge and the last at Nile Safari Lodge just outside the western border of the park). En route we will pass through the capital Kampala which, like Rome, was built upon seven hills, and then drive through farmland interspersed with papyrus swamps and patches of woodland where herds of Ankole cattle with their magnificent horns are commonplace. We will stop in a swampy area to look in particular for Hartlaub s Marsh Widowbird, as well as Yellow-throated Leaflove, Black-headed Gonolek and Fan-tailed Widowbird. We will encounter a variety of other birds during the journey, including the interesting Piapiac and such widespread species as Western Cattle Egret, Marabou Stork, Hadada Ibis, Black-shouldered Kite, Yellow-billed Kite (split from Black), Hooded Vulture, African Harrier-Hawk, Lizard Buzzard, Wahlberg s and Long-crested Eagles, African Green Pigeon, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Red-eyed and Laughing Doves, Brown Parrot, Eastern Grey Plantaineater (constantly uttering its strange call), African Palm Swift, Speckled Mousebird, Grey-headed, Woodland and Striped Kingfishers, Little Bee-eater, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, White-headed Barbet, African Grey Hornbill, Lesser Striped Swallow, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Dark-capped Bulbul (split from Common), Tawnyflanked Prinia, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Common Drongo, Pied Crow, Greybacked Fiscal, Yellow-billed Shrike, Lesser Blue-eared, Purple and Rüppell s Longtailed Starlings, Blackheaded, Holub s Golden and perhaps Jackson s Goldenbacked Weavers, Northern Grey-headed Sparrow, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Bronze Mannikin and Pintailed Whydah. We may also encounter one or two scarce species such as Bruce s Green Pigeon or Bronze-tailed Glossy Starling. Days 3-4 At Murchison (or Kabalega) Falls National Park the White Nile drops over the spectacular Murchison Falls on its way to Lake Albert, the water mostly forced through a gap barely more than 10 metres wide! A boat trip to the delta on the Nile below the falls will be a highlight of our stay here and gives us a very good chance of seeing the bizarre Shoebill or Whale-headed Stork. This extraordinary bird, which is placed in a family of its own, is confined to papyrus swamps and has its main stronghold in the inaccessible swamps of southern Sudan and central Zambia. A few pairs frequent a narrow strip of papyrus along the Nile and often allow a close approach by boat. Here we should also see African Darter, Squacco, Striated (or Green-backed), Grey, Purple and Goliath Herons, Little Bittern, Little, Yellow-billed and Great Egrets, Hammerkop, Saddle-billed and African Open-billed Storks, Whitefaced Whistling Duck, Egyptian Goose, Knob-billed Duck, African Fish Eagle (with its call that is so evocative of the African wilderness), Black Crake, Grey Crowned Crane, African Jacana, Senegal Thick-knee, Spur-winged and Long-toed Plovers, Rock Pratincole, Grey-headed Gull, Gull-billed and White-winged Terns, Blue-headed Coucal, Pied and Giant Kingfishers, the tiny Malachite Kingfisher, the beautiful Red-throated Bee-eater, African Pied Wagtail, the confiding Swamp Flycatcher, Carruthers s Cisticola, Papyrus Gonolek and Slender-billed, Northern Brown-throated and Yellowbacked Weavers, as well as many Hippopotamuses and some huge Nile Crocodiles. In the dry woodlands and savannas, in the gallery forest overlooking the Nile, or at marshy patches, we will look for Banded Snake Eagle, Bateleur, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Shikra, Palm-nut Vulture, Crested and Heuglin s Francolins, Helmeted Guineafowl, Vinaceous and African Mourning Doves, Black-billed Wood Dove, White-crested Turaco,

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Uganda Diederik, Black-and-white and Levaillant s Cuckoos, Senegal Coucal, White-rumped Swift, Blue-naped Mousebird, colourful Northern Carmine, Blue-breasted and Swallowtailed Bee-eaters, Broad-billed Roller, the huge Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Doubletoothed and Black-billed Barbets, Flappet Lark, Wiretailed Swallow, Sooty and White-fronted Black Chats, Spotted Morning Thrush, Brown Babbler, Silverbird, Pale Flycatcher, confusing Singing, Red-faced, Whistling, Winding, Croaking, Rattling, Siffling and Zitting Cisticolas, Red-winged, Red-winged Grey and Buff-bellied Warblers, Western Black-headed Batis, Common Wattle-eye, African Paradise Flycatcher, Common Fiscal, Black-headed Gonolek, Marsh and Black-crowned Tchagras, Tropical Boubou, Violet-backed Starling, Yellowbilled Oxpecker, Western Violet-backed, Scarletchested, Copper and Beautiful Sunbirds, Speckle-fronted Weaver, Yellow-mantled Widowbird, Black-winged Red and Northern Red Bishops, Red-billed and Red-headed Queleas, Black-rumped Waxbill, Bar-breasted and Red-billed Firefinches, and Yellow-fronted Canary. If we are fortunate we will also find one or two of the park s rarer species, such as Yellow Penduline Tit (first discovered here, and new to East Africa, by Birdquest in Pennant-winged Nightjars (Nik Borrow) 2006), Cabanis s Bunting or Brown-rumped Bunting. As dusk approaches we will visit the top of the falls to watch thousands of bats leaving their daytime roost. If we are lucky a Bat Hawk will put in an appearance and we could well see Pennant-winged and Long-tailed Nightjars, and Greyish Eagle-Owl as we spotlight along the park roads. Mammals can be difficult to see in the tall grasslands, but we may well encounter Waterbuck, African Elephant, African Buffalo, Giraffe, Kongoni, Bushbuck, Oribi, Kob, Olive Baboon and Vervet Monkey. We will also explore an area of moister forest where we will search for Rufoussided Broadbill and Puvel s Illadopsis (the latter was first discovered here in 1995, some considerable distance from its previously known range in West Africa). We may also visit the area north of the Nile in Murchison where we may see one or two additional species, mostly typical of drier country. Possibilities include Denham s Bustard, Blackheaded Plover and Shelley s Rufous Sparrow. Day 5 After some early morning birding, we will drive southwards to Kibale Forest National Park for a two nights stay. As we approach Kibale, situated in the Fort Portal region of western Uganda, we will get our first views of the distant Rwenzori Mountains. Day 6 Much of our birding at Kibale National Park will be done from the wide road which bisects the forest and the network of small trails which pierce the forest interior. Although the forest appears superficially similar to Budongo, there are subtle differences which are reflected by the presence of a variety of different birds. Here the magnificent African Crowned Eagle soars over the canopy striking terror into the troops of monkeys and flocks of Purple-headed Starlings gather to feed in fruiting trees where we may discover some subtlyplumaged Afep Pigeons. Among the other birds we will look for are White-spotted Flufftail (difficult to see as opposed to hear), Tambourine Dove, African Emerald, Dusky Long-tailed and Red-chested Cuckoos, Yellowbill (or Blue Malkoha), Black-billed Turaco, Narina Trogon, Alpine Swift, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, the splendid Black Bee-eater, White-throated Bee-eater, White-headed Wood Hoopoe, Speckled, Yellow-rumped and Yellow-throated Tinkerbirds, Streaky-throated (split from Hairy-breasted), Yellow-billed and Yellow-spotted Barbets, Thick-billed Honeyguide, Cassin s Honeybird, Mosque and Lesser Striped Swallows, White-headed Saw-wing, Mountain Wagtail, Cameroon Sombre, Joyful and Honeyguide Greenbuls, Western Nicator, the delightful Snowy-headed Robin-Chat, Rufous Thrush, Brown and Scaly-breasted Illadopsises, Green Hylia, White-chinned Prinia, Masked and Buffthroated Apalises, Green Crombec, Yellow White-eye, Grey-throated Flycatcher, the striking Black-and-white Flycatcher, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher, Western Black-headed Oriole, Velvetmantled Drongo, Pink-footed Puffback, Petit s Cuckoo- Shrike, Chestnut-winged Starling, Green, Collared, Western Olive, Green-headed, Blue-throated Brown, Greenthroated, Superb and Copper Sunbirds, Black-necked, Dark-backed and Vieillot s Black Weavers, Red-headed Malimbe, Grey-headed Negrofinch and Blackcrowned Waxbill. If we are very fortunate we will find the rare White-naped Pigeon, perhaps watching one perched up high on an exposed snag, or the ultra-elusive Greenbreasted Pitta. Kibale is home to no fewer than eleven species of primates and we should see Central African Red and Guereza Colobuses, Olive Baboon, Grey-cheeked Mangabey, and L Hoest s and Red-tailed Monkey. Furthermore, Kibale Forest is one of the best areas in Uganda to see Chimpanzees. Local guides keep a close watch on the activities of the various families and groups and there is a very good chance that we will encounter a troop of these most human of primates during our visit. We are sure to hear their deafening, blood-curdling screams echoing through the forest and we may enjoy wonderful views of these fascinating cousins of ours. During the afternoon we will visit a nearby swamp in search of White-winged Warbler and the delightful but erratic White-collared Olive-back, as well as Grey Crowned Crane, Ross s Turaco, the elegant Rufous-chested Swallow and Grosbeak-Weaver. During the evening African Wood Owls may put in an appearance near our accommodation. Day 7 This morning we will return to Kibale Forest and then drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park, on the shores of Lake Edward, for a two nights stay. Our route takes us through the foothills of the Rwenzoris. This mountain range is one of the wettest in the world and the snowcapped summits, including Mount Stanley (5109m), are usually hidden behind a cape of low cloud and mist. If we are lucky and the weather is clear we may catch a

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Uganda glimpse of the equatorial snowfields above the layers of cloud. Upon arrival at Mweya we will settle in at our sumptuous lodge, which has an abundance of tame birdlife on the premises and wonderful views over the Kazinga Channel. Day 8 Queen Elizabeth National Park is very varied with a mixture of West African-type tropical forest and open savanna more typical of East Africa. It boasts a birdlist of over 550 species, the largest of any protected area in Africa! Some impressive craters reflect the turbulent geological history of the area and large herds of African Elephants find a refuge in these natural enclaves. The elephant population is one of the most prolific on the continent; virtually all the females have calves and seem determined to redress the destruction that took place here during the lawless period under Amin and Obote. Mammals are much in evidence at Queen Elizabeth and we should find Vervet Monkey, Common Warthog, Giant Hog (probably easier to see here than anywhere else), Kob, Bushbuck, Waterbuck, Topi, African Buffalo, Scrub Lions (Nik Borrow) Hare, Marsh Mongoose, Banded Mongoose, Spotted Hyaena and Lions. We even have a good chance of encountering a Leopard. The park is bisected by the Kazinga Channel, which flows between Lake George and Lake Edward, and this waterway teams with Hippopotamuses and Nile Crocodiles as well as an excellent variety of birds, including Great White and Pink-backed Pelicans, Great Egret, Grey, Purple and Goliath Herons, Saddle-billed and Yellow-billed Storks, Sacred and Glossy Ibises, Egyptian Goose, Black Crake, African Jacana, Black-winged Stilt, Water Thick-knee, Spurwinged, African Wattled, Kittlitz s and Three-banded Plovers, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Brown-throated Sand Martin, Greater and Lesser Swamp Warblers, Carruthers s Cisticola and Papyrus Gonolek, all of which we are likely to see during an enjoyable boat trip. African Skimmers are also sometimes present. Elsewhere in the park we will look for African Crake and the superb Brown-chested Plover, as well as Marabou Stork, Black-shouldered Kite, Hooded, African Whitebacked, Rüppell s Griffon, Lappet-faced and Whiteheaded Vultures, Brown Snake Eagle, Bateleur, Gabar Goshawk, Wahlberg s, Tawny, Martial and Long-crested Eagles, Lanner Falcon, Helmeted Guineafowl, Blackbellied Bustard, Red-necked Spurfowl, Collared Pratincole, Senegal and Crowned Plovers, African Mourning, Ringnecked and Laughing Doves, Diederik Cuckoo, Black and Senegal Coucals, Verreaux s Eagle-Owl, Blue-naped Mousebird, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Madagascar and Little Bee-eaters, African Hoopoe, Common Scimitarbill, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, White-headed Barbet, Lesser Honeyguide, Grey Woodpecker, Rufousnaped and Flappet Larks, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Plain-backed Pipit, Banded Martin, White-browed Robin- Chat, Sooty Chat, Arrowmarked and Black-lored Babblers, Moustached Grass Warbler, Fan-tailed Grassbird, Trilling, Winding, Stout and Zitting Cisticolas, Northern Crombec, Buff-bellied Warbler, Black-headed Batis, Common Wattle-eye, African Paradise Flycatcher, Common Drongo, Common and Greybacked Fiscals, Black-headed Gonolek, Black-crowned Tchagra, Sulphur-breasted Bush Shrike, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-Shrike, Violetbacked Starling, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, Purple-banded and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds, Compact, Lesser Masked and Spectacled Weavers, Redbilled Quelea, Southern Red Bishop, Fan-tailed and Whitewinged Widowbirds, Greenwinged Pytilia, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, Red-billed Firefinch, Common and Fawnbreasted Waxbills, Pin-tailed Whydah, Brimstone Canary and Golden-breasted Bunting. Harlequin Quail and both Common (or Small) and Blackrumped Buttonquails occur in the lush grasslands but are usually hard to observe. At night we may find Gabon Nightjars feeding around the lights of the lodge. Day 9 Today we will drive to the lower section of the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park for a three nights stay at Buhoma. As we approach Buhoma we will see forested mountains stretching as far as the eye can see towards the Congo border. Days The Impenetrable Forest is one of the largest in East Africa and has a remarkable altitudinal range of continuous forest from 1160m to 2650m. This splendid forest is considered to be the richest in East Africa for plant, mammal, bird and butterfly species: over 330 bird species have been recorded here, for example. The Impenetrable is a wonderfully evocative name and often appears in the ornithological literature for Africa. The forest was so named not because it was any more densely vegetated than other forests, but because of the steepness of the hills which made progress almost impossible. Fortunately it is possible to see most of the special birds of this wonderful area by walking along the roads or along gently sloping tracks. On only a few occasions will we have to take to the steeper trails. At lower levels the forest is easy to work and at Buhoma there is an excellent trail that follows a valley bottom through magnificent forest. Western Bronze-naped Pigeons and Olive Long-tailed Cuckoos call from the dense canopy, sedate Bar-tailed Trogons sit quietly overhead and weirdlooking Grey-throated Barbets inspect dead trunks and boughs, but the real prizes of this forest skulk in the undergrowth and we will need patience to get views of the highly elusive Grey-chested Illadopsis, Red-throated Alethe (which often attends ant swarms), Equatorial Akalat, White-bellied Robin Chat, Black-faced Rufous Warbler and the enigmatic Short-tailed Warbler. Fruiting trees often attract an interesting selection of starlings including Slenderbilled, Waller s, Narrow-

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Uganda tailed and Stuhlmann s, whilst other species we can hope to see in the forest include Great Sparrowhawk, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Willcocks s Honeyguide, Green-backed, Cardinal and Elliot s Woodpeckers, African Broadbill (a bird with a remarkable display), Ansorge s, Little, Slender-billed, Cabanis s, White-throated and Red-tailed Greenbuls, Kakamega Greenbul (split from Shelley s), Red-tailed Bristlebill, the gorgeous but secretive Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat, White-tailed Ant Thrush, Black-throated, Grey and Black-faced Apalises, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, White-browed Crombec, Olive-green Camaroptera, Dusky Tit, Sooty, African Dusky, Dusky-blue, Yelloweyed Black and the rare Chapin s Flycatchers, Whitebellied Crested Flycatcher, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Many-coloured, Lühder s and Bocage s Bush Shrikes, Grey-headed, Little Green, Blue-headed and Northern Double-collared Sunbirds, and Black-billed and Browncapped Weavers. Exposed perches at the forest edge are favoured by Blue-throated Roller, while in the cut-over clearings we may find duetting Chubb s Cisticolas, Cape Wagtail, Brown-backed Scrub Robin, Mackinnon s Fiscal and Western Citril (split from African). African Green Broadbill (Nik Borrow) The attractive L Hoest s Monkey may be seen here and the Impenetrable Forest is also home to a healthy population of Gorillas. Once considered to be of the Mountain variety, recent taxonomic revisions have now placed them as part of the Eastern Lowland subspecies graueri with the proviso that these Ugandan animals, which show shared characteristics, could, in fact, be an endangered subspecies in their own right. Anyone who wishes to will be able to go out with the park staff to look for these spectacular creatures, an experience which involves from three to ten hours in the field, depending on where the gorillas are located. A close encounter with a group of these gentle giants is a profound experience which will make an indelible impression. The gorillas are fully protected in the park and we will be able to track a group of these marvellous animals through the dense, damp forest and thickets of giant bamboo on the slopes of the mountain. The terrain can be steep and rough, but our tracker-guides will cut a path through the dense understorey of giant nettles and wild celery if necessary. As we approach a group our tracker-guides will make strange grunting noises to reassure the gorillas that we are merely harmless tourists. These huge animals are surprisingly docile and often completely unconcerned by the presence of humans, so it is usually possible to get to within a few metres of them as they play, feed and rest. There is no need to say that this is an experience which you will never forget! Day 12 After two full days at lower levels we will transfer to the higher section of the park, passing through The Neck, a narrow corridor of forest that connects the two forest blocks. We will spend some time birding along the winding track at intermediate altitudes where flowering Leonotis often attract Bronze and Variable Sunbirds and other possibilities include African Goshawk, Augur Buzzard, Scarce Swift, Double-toothed Barbet, Redthroated Wryneck, Black Saw-wing, Yellow-throated Leaflove, Cassin s Grey, White-eyed Slaty and African Blue Flycatchers, Browncrowned and Marsh Tchagras, the glorious Doherty s Bush Shrike, White-naped Raven, Baglafecht Weaver, Yellow Bishop, African Firefinch, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, and Black-throated and Streaky Seed-eaters. If we are lucky we shall find the little-known Dusky Twinspot. We will spend the next two nights at the guesthouse of the research station at Ruhija. Day 13 In the higher parts of the forest the mist lingers in the valleys until late morning and this perpetual dampness is reflected in the profusion of hanging mosses and epiphyteencrusted branches. These Central African mountains are a centre of avian endemism which developed around the Albertine Rift, an ancient branch of the Great Rift Valley. A number of birds are unique to this region including Handsome Francolin, Archer s Robin Chat, Collared Apalis, Grauer s Warbler (with its insect-like song), Ruwenzori Batis, Stripe-breasted Tit, Regal Sunbird, the unbelievablyplumaged Purple-breasted Sunbird, Strange Weaver, Dusky Crimson-wing and the uncommon and hardto-find Kivu Ground Thrush. We have a good chance of seeing most of these exciting birds during our stay and shall also make a long trek up and down hill to Mubwindi Swamp where we will hope to locate the rare Grauer s Rush Warbler (a species confined to high altitude swamps in the Albertine Rift) and of course the most sought-after bird of the Impenetrable, the African Green Broadbill. We have a fair chance of seeing this little-known species which has been seen by comparatively few living ornithologists. Among the other birds we will look for in the forest are Mountain Buzzard, Ayres s and perhaps Cassin s Hawk- Eagles, Olive Pigeon, the uncommon Brown-necked Parrot, Barred Long-tailed and Klaas s Cuckoos, Ruwenzori Nightjar, Western Green Tinkerbird, Fine-banded Woodpecker, Rock Martin, Montane Oriole, Ruwenzori Hill Babbler (split from African), Mountain Illadopsis, Grey Cuckoo-Shrike, Mountain and Yellow-streaked Greenbuls, White-starred Robin, Mountain Thrush, Chestnut-throated Apalis, Evergreen Forest, Cinnamon Bracken and Mountain Yellow Warblers, Chin-spot Batis, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, White-tailed Crested Flycatcher, the skulking Montane Sooty Boubou, Northern Puffback, Sharpe s Starling, Kandt s Waxbill (split from Black-headed), Thickbilled Seed-eater, Oriole Finch and Yellow-crowned Canary. Chimpanzees and Gorillas also occur in this section of the forest, but they are hard to see in this difficult terrain. Day 14 Today we will drive to Lake Mburo National Park for an overnight stay. We will make several stops amongst the open plains and by rocky hillsides in the hope of finding such species as Grey Kestrel, Speckled Pigeon, African Black Swift,

6 6 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Uganda Red-rumped Swallow, Grassland Pipit, Red-tailed Chat, African Stonechat and Wing-snapping Cisticola. Lake Mburo National Park is an attractive area consisting of the lake itself, papyrus swamp, open grasslands with dense clumps of bushes, and open acacia woodland. In the drier hinterland Lilacbreasted Rollers perch on high vantage points and parties of White-winged Black Tits feed in the flowering acacias, and at this time of year we have an excellent chance of finding the very restricted-range Red-faced Barbet. This is a good place for seeing the shy Short-tailed Warbler (Nik Borrow) African Finfoot and we also have a chance for Whitebacked Night Heron. Other likely species include African Darter, Striated (or Greenbacked) Heron, Spur-winged Goose, African Marsh Harrier, African Hawk- Eagle, Coqui and Crested Francolins, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Brown Parrot, Blue-headed Coucal, Barefaced Go-away-bird, Striped Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Green Wood Hoopoe, African Grey Hornbill, Spotflanked Barbet, Nubian Woodpecker, White-browed Scrub Robin, Singing, Longtailed (or Tabora) and Siffling Cisticolas, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Red-faced Crombec, Lead-coloured Flycatcher, African Penduline Tit, Blackheaded Oriole, Tropical Boubou, White-crested Helmet Shrike, Brubru, Black Cuckoo-Shrike, Greater Blue-eared and Wattled Starlings, Marico Sunbird and Red-headed, Little and Holub s Golden Weavers. Shy Oribis, graceful Impalas and Common Zebras can be found amongst the open, park-like woodland. At night African Scops Owls call around our accommodation and we have a good chance of seeing one, while if we are lucky we will also come across a Black-shouldered Nightjar. Day 15 After some final birding at Lake Mburo we will return to Entebbe, where the tour ends this evening. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are of a good standard almost throughout. At Ruhija we will stay for two nights in a fairly simple lodge. Road transport is by 4x4s and roads are mostly good. Walking: The walking effort is mostly easy, but occasionally moderate and there is an optional fairly demanding hike to search for African Green Broadbill. The optional gorilla tracking involves part or all of one day in the Impenetrable Forest. Please bear in mind that whilst the gorillas can usually be located within an hour or so, without more than moderate grade hiking involved, it can occasionally take up to three hours or more of quite strenuous trekking to find them (and a similar time to return), although the skilled tracker-guides and porters manage to make this less of a challenge than it would first appear. Very rarely, in spite of all the efforts of the trackerguides, the gorillas prove elusive. Climate: Most days will be warm or hot, dry and sunny but overcast conditions are fairly frequent and there may well be some rain. At higher altitudes temperatures range from cool to warm. Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities are good.