Panel Discussion. How to introduce substitution of hazardous chemicals in the textile supply chain? Introduction
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1 Panel Discussion How to introduce substitution of hazardous chemicals in the textile supply chain? Introduction September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 1
2 Recent ECHA report (Monday, September 12th, 2016): Report: Improving the identification, evaluation, adoption and development of safer alternatives for SVHCs Main obstacles to substitution: lack of information on alternatives; SVHC = substance of very high concern lack of relevant expertise and resources in companies; Challenge: ability to conduct technical feasibility and performance assessments; disconnect between industry's need to identify alternatives to SVHCs and research into substitutes. September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 2
3 Recent ECHA report (Monday, September 12th, 2016) (II) Overcoming the obstacles: expertise needed in: chemical hazard evaluation; chemistry; technical assessment; and economic analysis. Solutions: Sharing of resources and coordination between authorities Establish a committee for inter-authority analysis of alternatives and chemical substitution evaluation of existing supply chain partnership and collaboration models at EU and member state levels greater supply chain collaboration and engagement September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 3
4 What do these findings mean for substitution in the textile supply chain? Textile supply chain is characterized by Global division of labour with many links in the supply chain from fibre processing, processing of chemicals, use of chemicals in wet processing facilities, processing of textiles, to textile brands, trade and consumers Use of chemical mixtures of technical grade, not single (SVHC) substances Different levels of chemical management, waste and water management, good housekeeping in wet processing facilities Different types of textiles: fashion textiles, outdoor textiles, home textiles, technical textiles in medicine, automotive, personal protection equipment... Different approaches in the textile supply chain in view of MRSLs, MRSL compliant formulations and certification systems September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 4
5 What do these findings mean for substitution in the textile supply chain? (II) How do the panelists and the audience judge the role of the different stakeholders in the textile supply chain to overcome main obstacles? Textile Chemicals companies Textile industry, Apparel industry, globally active brands SMEs in Apparel industry Trade associations, consumers, NGOs authorities (in Europe and world wide) Research institutes, test institutes, assessment tools bodies Facilitating bodies like partnership for sustainable textiles, SAC, ZDHC Are MRSLs, MRSL compliant formulations and certification systems suitable tools to facilitate substitution in the textile chain? MRSL = manufacturing restricted substances list September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 5
6 Panelists Dr. Lilia Lohrey, CHT/BEZEMA, textile chemicals manufacturer Birgit Karpa-Beuth, GSM-Consulting Johannes Förster, Partnership for Sustainable textiles Dr. Volker Schröder, TEGEWA, textile chemicals trade association (moderator) September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 6
7 Thank you very much for your attention! Telegenic. Eager. Gorgeous. Experienced. Watchful. Association No.1: TEGEWA (and very modest) Dr. Volker Schröder Tel September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 7
8 Back up September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA Volker Schröder 8
9 MRSL = Manufacturing Restricted Substances list - List of substances with a ban for intentional use in textile chemicals - Limits that exclude intentional use but take the technical grade of textile chemicals into account - Cancerogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic substances, sensitizing dyestuffs etc. MRSL compliant formulations: lists of textile chemicals provided by chemical industry with a compliance statement MRSL-certifiers: Independant bodies that review these statements and approve or disapprove. September 15th, 2016 TEGEWA 9
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