International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: EFFECT OF STITCH LENGTH ON DRAPE CO-EFFICIENT FOR RIB FABRIC
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1 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: EECT O STITCH LENGTH ON RAPE CO-EICIENT OR RIB ABRIC 1 Sheikh Nazmul Hoque, 2 M. Erha Khan epartment of Textile Technology, Ahanullah Univerity of Science an Technology, , Love Roa, Tejgaon I/A, haka 1208, Banglaeh. Abtract: rape i the outtaning property of a textile fabric which itinguihe it from other material uch a paper, teel, i it ability to unergo large, recoverable raping eformation by bulking gracefully into roune fol of ingle an ouble curvature. rape i the term ue to ecribe the way a fabric hang uner it own weight. It ha an important bearing on how goo a garment look in ue. The raping qualitie require from a fabric will iffer completely epening on it en ue; therefore a given value for rape cannot be claifie a either goo or ba. Knitte fabric are relatively floppy an garment mae from them will ten to follow the boy contour. Stitch length i one of the mot important an ignificant parameter. It ha influence on almot every other propertie of knitte fabric. Thi paper i to fin out the relationhip between the titch length an rape co-efficient of the fabric. Keywor: rape, rape co-efficient, Rib, Yarn count. I. INTROUCTION rape i one of the apect of phyical teting of the fabric [3]. Meaurement of a fabric rape i meant to ae it ability to o thi an alo it ability to hang in graceful curve [4]. rape i efine a The ability of a fabric to hang limply in graceful fol, e.g. the inuoial type fol of a curtain or kirt [6]. It refer fabric to orient itelf into a graceful fol or pleat a a reult of force of gravity. Cuick efine the rape of a fabric a a eformation of the fabric prouce by gravity when only part of the fabric i irectly upporte. rape co- efficient () i the ratio of the projecte area of the rape pecimen to it unrape area, after euction of the area of the upporting ik [2]. Intea of the area of rape an unrape pecimen, their correponing weight of paper projection can alo be ue for calculating the rape co-efficient. Then the formula will be, = here, = eight of paper whoe area i equal to the projecte area of rape fabric, = eight of paper whoe projecte area i equal to the area of rape pecimen, = eight of the paper whoe area i equal to the upporting ic. Stitch length i the length of yarn knitte into one titch [1]. It i ometime calle Loop length. The ample were prouce having ifferent titch length. All the ample that were ue for thi experiment were of untreate or grey tate. BS 5058:1973 wa followe a teting tanar. II. SAMPLE PREPARATION At firt 10 cone of combe cotton yarn were taken. The finene of yarn wa meaure by uing wrap reel an it wa of 7 Ne for all the package. Then the 1X1 rib fabric wa prouce on V-be flat knitting machine uing thee package. Rib i a balance tructure [5]. The ample were prouce by uing 2 plie, 4 plie, 6 plie, 8 plie an 10 plie of 7 Ne. rom each variety, fabric of four ifferent titch length were prouce. A a reult, 20 ample were obtaine of ifferent plie an titch length. Then the ample were conitione at ry relaxe tate for 48 hour.
2 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: After conitioning the ample, titch length were meaure of ifferent ample. Then the ample were cut accoring to the hape of 30cm iameter ic of Cuick rape teter. All the ample were in grey tate. III. EXPERIMENTAL In the rape tet, the pecimen eform with multi-irectional curvature an conequently the reult are epenent to a certain amount upon the hear propertie of the fabric. The reult are mainly epenent, however, on the bening tiffne of the fabric. In the tet a circular pecimen i hel concentrically between two maller horizontal ic an i allowe to rape into fol uner it own weight. A light i hone from unerneath the pecimen an the haow that the fabric cat i trace onto an annular piece of paper the ame ize a the unupporte part of the fabric pecimen. The tiffer a fabric i, the larger i the area of it haow compare with the unupporte area of the fabric [4]. After making the ample; the ample were place on the ic inie the intrument o that the pin on the ic pae through the center of the ample. The li of the intrument wa lowere an the light wa witche on. A paper ring (A) wa place on the li aroun the locating ic. The haow outline of rape fabric wa rawn on A. Then it wa cut along the borer a per outline. The whole paper ring wa rawn on another paper (B) an cut. Two other circular paper were alo cut a per the meaurement of ample an ic. It i to mention that all the three cut paper are of ame GSM. Then the weight of thee three paper piece were taken an the rape co-efficient wa calculate by uing formula. Thi proce wa repeate for both face an back ie of the ample. IV. ATA ANALYSIS A total of 40 ample were prouce for thi reearch work. 20 ifferent titch length an 5 ifferent yarn count were ue for proucing all the ample. All the ample were of 1 1 rib tructure. = gm an = 7.52 gm for all the table. Table 1: ata for 7/2 Ne abric ie (gm) = ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back Avg. rape Co-efficient,
3 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: Table 2: ata for 7/4 Ne abric ie (gm) = ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back Avg. rape Co-efficient, Table 3: ata for 7/6 Ne abric ie (gm) = ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back Avg. rape Co-efficient,
4 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: Table 4: ata for 7/8 Ne abric ie (gm) = ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back Avg. rape Co-efficient, Table 5: ata for 7/10 Ne abric ie (gm) = ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back ace Back Avg. rape Co-efficient,
5 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: V. RESULTS rom Table 1, for 7/2 Ne yarn, the relationhip between Stitch length an rape co efficient can be oberve in the r a p e or 7/2 Ne Stitch length () igure 1: Effect of titch length on rape co-efficient for 7/2 Ne In figure 1, it i clearly oberve that a the titch length increae, the rape co-efficient ecreae. rom Table 2, for 7/4 Ne yarn, the relationhip between Stitch length an rape co efficient can be oberve in the igure 2: Effect of titch length on rape co-efficient for 7/4 Ne In figure 2, it i clearly oberve that a the titch length increae, the rape co-efficient ecreae. rom Table 3, for 7/6 Ne yarn, the relationhip between Stitch length an rape co efficient can be oberve in the igure 3: Effect of titch length on rape co-efficient for 7/6 Ne
6 International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: In figure 3, it i clearly oberve that a the titch length increae, the rape co-efficient ecreae. rom Table 4, for 7/8 Ne yarn, the relationhip between Stitch length an rape co efficient can be oberve in the igure 4: Effect of titch length on rape co-efficient for 7/8 Ne In figure 4, it i clearly oberve that a the titch length increae, the rape co-efficient ecreae. rom Table 5, for 7/10 Ne yarn, the relationhip between Stitch length an rape co efficient can be oberve in the igure 5: Effect of titch length on rape co-efficient for 7/10 Ne In figure 5, it i clearly oberve that a the titch length increae, the rape co-efficient ecreae. VI. CONCLUSION It i oberve in all the above cae that there i a relationhip between titch length an rape co-efficient of the rib fabric. The titch length i foun to be inverely proportional to the rape co-efficient for rib tructure. Thi relationhip can be ue for proucing rib fabric coercially where the rape of the fabric i a major iue. In moern fahion tren, thi phenomenon can be ue to prouce fahion collare apparel, weater or other apparel. VII. REERENCES [1].B. Ajgaonkar, Knitting Technology. New elhi: Univeral, 2006, pp [2] J. E. Booth, Principle of Textile Teting, Inia: CBS Publiher, 1996, pp [3] J. Hu, abric Teting. Cambrige: oohea, 2008, pp. 5-6 [4] B. P. Saville, Phyical teting of textile, Cambrige: oohea, 1999, pp [5]. J. Spencer, Knitting Technology, Cambrige: oohea 1998, pp [6] M. J. enton, Textile Term an efinition, Mancheter: TI, 2002.
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