SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE January 6-January 28, 2016 Valparaiso, Chile to Tahiti, French Polynesia

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1 SOUTH PACIFIC CRUISE January 6-January 28, 2016 Valparaiso, Chile to Tahiti, French Polynesia The cruise lasted 17 days and visited the following: Robinson Crusoe Island, Easter Island, Pitcairn Island, Fakarava [Tuomotu Islands] Rangiroa, Bora Bora and Tahiti [all Society Islands] Participants: Barry Cooper, Gail Mackiernan*, Sally Wechsler This is approximately our tenth seabirdoriented voyage on a commercial cruise ship. We have learned that these large vessels offer many opportunities for the serious seabirder. Not the least of which is a completely stable platform from which one can comfortably use one s scopes, covered decks in wet weather, and a vast array of possible routes. The ship for this cruise was the Marina of the Oceania Cruises, with a carrying capacity of about 1,200 passengers. This ship was not ideal for viewing with no covered promenade deck nor access to the bow. Normally, these are the two best sites for viewing seabirds. Most of our observations were made from the open deck 14. While not ideal and exposed to the elements, seabirds could still be readily observed. However, we would not recommend this ship for seabird enthusiasts. In general, seabird diversity was quite good [with twenty-one species of tubenose seen]. There were no less than nine full days at sea as the Marina covered the approximately 4,800 nautical miles from Valparaiso to Tahiti.Seabird numbers and activity was also good around several of the islands we visited and during the first three sea days of our voyage. However, numbers dropped off noticeably west of Easter Island. In fact, on one full day at sea no pelagic species were seen at all! The fact this was also a strong El Niño year undoubtedly affected numbers and diversity of seabirds in the eastern Pacific. Reference Material: Albatrosses, Petrels and Shearwaters of the World, 2007, Derek Onley and Paul Scofield, published by Helm Publishers, London The Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical Pacific, Pratt, Bruner and Berrett published by Princetown University Press. The Birds of Chile, Alvaro Jaramillo Several internet trip reports gave good information on French Polynesia and Chile. Finally, we would not have had as successful a trip without the considerable help of Rodrigo Reyes [Chile], Cristian Lopez [Robinson Crusoe Island], Kuntari [Easter Island] and Philippe Raust [Tahiti] 1

2 Land Itinerary: We arrived at Santiago Airport on January 6 th and was met by Rodrigo Reyes and spent two very successful days birding in Chile prior to the cruise. After completion of the cruise, three days were spent birding in Tahiti. Oceania Cruise Itinerary: Arrive Depart Thu Jan 7 Santiago (Valparaiso), Chile 8:00pm Fri Jan 8 At Sea Sat Jan 9 Robinson Crusoe Island, Chile 8:00am 5:00pm Sun Jan 10 At Sea Mon Jan 11 At Sea Tue Jan 12 At Sea Wed Jan 13 At Sea Thu Jan 14 Easter Island, Chilean 8:00am dependency (Hanga Roa, Chile) Fri Jan 15 Easter Island, Chilean 4:00pm dependency (Hanga Roa, Chile) Sat Jan 16 At Sea Sun Jan 17 At Sea Mon Jan 18 Pitcairn Island, UK Territory 8:00am 6:00pm Tue Jan 19 At Sea Wed Jan 20 At Sea Thu Jan 21 Fakarava, Tuamotu Islands 9:00am 6:00pm Fri Jan 22 Rangiroa, Society Islands 8:00am 5:00pm Sat Jan 23 Bora Bora, Society Islands Noon Sun Jan 24 Bora Bora, Society Islands 5:00pm Mon Jan 25 Papeete, Tahiti, Society Islands 7:00am Daily Log: January 6 th Arrived at Santiago International. Airport in the early morning and was met by Rorigo Reyes plus a van and driver. Drove to Valparaiso and birded coastal areas both north and south of the city. These included the Viña del Mar waterfront, Humboldt Penguin colony at Isla Cachagua, Santa Julia area and the Candelco Lagoon. A good selection of birds seen in addition to the penguins. These included 1 Cocoi Heron, 2 Black-headed Ducks, 2 Cinereous Harriers, 200 Inca Terns, 3 Chilean Seaside Cinclodes, and 2 Spectacled Tyrants. We stayed overnight in a convenient but not very upscale Airbnb apartmant in Valparaiso. January 7 th In early morning Rodrigo met us (a bit late, they had had a flat tire) and drove to Cerro de Campaña N.P. We entered the park at the Ocoa area, dominated by a large native palm. In the afternoon a visit to a nearby wetland area, Posada del Parque (which is also a BnB).. We had a very enjoyable day, highlights being no less than eight Moustached Turcas seen [and six others heard]. We had excellent prolonged views of this charismatic species as well as two White-throated Tapaculos. At the Posada we saw 2

3 two Great Shrike-Tyrants and a brilliant Many-colored Rush Tyrant, plus many other species. At about four p.m. we were dropped off at the cruise ship, which departed Valparaiso at 8:00 p.m. We managed about 30 minutes of birding before it got too dark and were rewarded by 2-3 Pomarine Jaegers, 4 Arctic Terns, one Sooty Shearwater and a single Peruvian Diving Petrel. Unfortunately the bird-rich Humboldt Current was crossed at night. January 8 th Our first full day at sea heading for Robinson Crusoe Island. De Filippi s Petrels were the star, with about 150 seen [and only two more seen for the remainder of the trip]. This was also our only day for Buller s Shearwaters with about 120 seen. The most unexpected pelagic species was an immature Swallow-tailed Gull swimming close to the ship, providing Gail a good opportunity for a photo. Nine species of tubenose seen today which included two Albatross species January 9 th Arrived at Robinson Crusoe Island at 8.00 a.m. The Marina tendered us in to the only town on the island [San Juan Bautista] with about 600 residents. We had arranged to meet Christian Lopez and spent a lot of time looking for and eventually successfully seeing the star endemic land bird, the Juan Fernandez Firecrown as well as the island s other endemic, the Juan Fernandez Tit-Tyrant. Spent time in the afternoon on a small boat which visited a motu [small rocky island] and saw several Kermadec Petrels circling above the island, presumably breeding. Plus great close looks at Pink-footed Shearwaters, Black-browed Albatrosses and several Southern Giant Petrels. The ship slowly departed the island at 5.00 p.m. just when huge numbers of Pink-footed Shearwaters were leaving their breeding colonies. Also, we saw about 30 White-bellied Storm-Petrels as they flew extremely close to the ship and provided great views. In all eight species of tubenose seen. January 10 th The first of four consecutive days at sea saw the peak numbers of Juan Fernandez Petrels with about 65 birds logged. In fact, almost certainly there were many more as we had several long breaks from watching. However, diversity dropped to only three species of tubebnose today. January 11 th The weather throughout the trip remained sunny and hot with very little ocean swell not ideal weather for seabird activity. Also, the nutrient-poor deep blue tropical waters indicated little food availability. Today was a complete bust with no birds seen at all! This must be almost the first time on all our cruises that there were zero birds. Needless to say it took some perseverance to put in even a few hours looking. January 12 th Not a lot better than the previous day but at least Juan Fernandez Petrels returned and our first of many Red-tailed Tropicbirds was seen. 3

4 January 13 th Our last full day at sea before arriving at Easter Island. Juan Fernandez Petrels were still around plus a distant Tropicbird sp and a Cookilaria petrel was sighted but frustratingly too far away for a positive i/d. Again a very slow day. January 14 th We arrived at Easter Island at 8.00 am. Initially we had arranged a cultural tour and were driven around for about 7 hours by a local resident, Konturi Reams. This was a very interesting time, and much better than we expected. The island is not as barren and featureless as we had been led to believe, and the strange history of the moae and the mysterious Easter Island culture is fascinating. As expected very few land birds except Duica Finches, House Sparrows and the ever-present Chimango Caracaras [which were everywhere]. Around 5.00 p.m. we had arranged the hire of a small boat [see Contacts, page 19) to take us to several small islets (motus) which are about 1/4 mile offshore. We had advice from Al Jaramillo that this is the location of several breeding petrel species, as well as terns and boobies.. We had a very enjoyable time observing numerous Herald and Kermadec Petrels circling around the islands. At least four striking Phoenix Petrels were also seen, as well as two Henderson Petrels. Additionally, brief views were obtained of a probable Christmas Island Shearwater and the motu also held colonies of Masked Boobies and Brown Noddies. Unfortunately, due to the timing of the last tender to take us back to the ship we had to leave the motu at 7.30 p.m. [well before dusk] and so missed out on the opportunity to see more pelagic birds returning to their nests at dusk. Still the afternoon was one of the highlights of the whole cruise. January 15 th Due to supposedly rough seas we were unable to return to Easter Island today. Most of the passengers were extremely disappointed, as the seas seemed no rougher than the day before. Almost a mutiny! By way of compensation, the Marina made a slow scenic cruise completely around the island. This gave us the opportunity to estimate the colony of Masked Boobies on the motu (about 50 pairs) Only 1-2 unidentified petrels were seen, the others were probably at sea. Otherwise except for a few tropicbirds little new was seen. 4

5 Seabirds seen during the afternoon included close views of 1-2 Christmas Island Shearwaters, Juan Fernandez Petrels and five probable (but out of range) Softplumaged Petrels. These birds were about 100 miles west of Easter Island as the ship was heading west towards our next destination [Pitcairn Island]. January 16 th Another full (and slow) day at sea. Pelagic species seen were limited to Juan Fernandez Petrels and our first White Tern of the trip. January 17 th.another full day at sea. Numbers still very low but tubenose species gave us some welcome diversity. This included our last Juan Fernandez Petrel of the trip and single Herald and Kermadec Petrels plus three Christmas Island Shearwaters, while White Tern numbers had increased to ten and a single Red-tailed Tropicbird circled the ship. January 18 th We arrived at Pitcairn Island at 8.00 a.m. Species observed as the Marina closely approached the island included our only Murphy s Petrel of the trip plus a single Herald and two Henderson s Petrels. Both Brown and Black Noddies and White Terns were common and an impressive party of some thirty Grey Ternlets was seen departing from the island to feed at sea. We were unable to land on the island and thus dipped out on the endemic Reed Warbler. About 40 of the 47 local inhabitants, most being descendants of the original Bounty mutineers, came aboard to sell many fine quality hand-made carvings and jewelry [not the usual stuff made in China]. Eventually, the ship slowly performed a scenic cruise around the island before departing at around 6.00 p.m. During this period our first [of very many later] Red-footed Boobies were seen. Red-tailed Tropicbirds were very common with at least forty birds seen circling around the high, impressive cliffs; also many Great Frigatebirds and an unidentified Procelleria petrel sp flow over our heads. January 19 th Our seventh full day at sea, heading towards Fakarava in the Tuomoto Islands. [Unfortunatly, the Tuomoto Sandpiper became extinct on Fakarava during the 1970 s]. Bird activity was again slow with Red-footed Boobies being the most numerous [40] with smaller numbers of Brown Noddies, White Terns and a couple of Red-tailed Tropicbirds. January 20 th Our final full day at sea. The major change was a large increase of in-shore species such as Red-footed Boobies [200], Brown Noddy [600] and increases in both Black Noddy and White Tern. 5

6 January 21 st The Marina arrived at Fakarava at 8.00 and departed the island at 6.00 p.m. This allowed a short time seawatching prior to docking and somewhat longer in the evening. A smart-looking Tropical Shearwater was seen early in the morning and three Lesser Frigatebirds were new for the trip. While on shore we rented bicycles and headed for the small airfield hoping for Bristledthighed Curlews feeding on the extensive grassy area. No luck there but we did see about fifteen Pacific Golden Plovers. During the evening watch another noticeable increase was apparent in both Red-footed and Brown Boobies, and Brown Noddies. However, the best birds today were a party of six Grey-backed Terns seen during the late afternoon from the Marina as it was docked. January 22 nd The next Polynesian Island visited was Rangiroa. We had arranged to take a 1 hour boat ride across the huge lagoon to search f or the extremely rare Polynesian Ground Dove on a privatelyowned small forested motu (Motu Omai). Four of us searching the tiny island for two hours drew a blank. Not a good sign for one of the world s rarest species*. However, the number of other birds breeding on these undisturbed islets was incredible. Brown Noddies were estimated in the low thousands and Black Noddies in the hundreds. Also many Red-footed Boobies, Brown Boobies, and White Terns plus 30 Grey Ternlets which were spotted as we traveled across the lagoon. From this motu we went to the famous Blue Lagoon and anchored at a more private motu.. We soon saw about a half-dozen of the endemic Blue Lorikeet, a very cute tiny parrot. Best of all were about ten Bristled-thighed Curlews. However, we failed to find the endemic Reed Warbler, which friends saw at the busy Blue Lagoon picnic area but was absent on the more pristine motu we visited. (Go figure.) [*Note: When we arrived in Tahiti, and spoke to Philippe Raust, President of MANU, the Polynesian Ornithological Society, he told us when representatives had visited this Rangiroa motu several months earlier, there had been only two male Ground Doves present and one showed signs of avian pox. It is probable that this tiny population is on its way out if not already extirpated however in the southern Tuamotus, the species is doing better and is being carefully monitored. Also, in the 1970s Rangiroa and Fakarava both held populations of Tuamotu Sandpiper, per DuPont. Again this species is doing fairly well in the southern part of the archipelago, but has been eliminated from the northern islands.] January 23 rd 24 th We arrived at Bora Bora around noon and our morning sea watch produced our last new tubenose species of the trip with six Tahiti Petrels plus a single cookilaria sp. 6

7 We rented a car and drove around the island twice [a total of about 50 miles] stopping at likely birding spots. At the only public hard top road we could find that gave access to a limited amount of the mountainous interior provided us with two Chattering Kingfishers plus one other heard. We also managed to see several native species including Pacific Reef Heron, Wandering Tattler and good numbers of Great-crested Terns plus several introduced species. We departed Bora Bora at 5.00 p.m. heading for our final destination of Tahiti. This provided one last opportunity for an evening seawatch. This turned-out to be quite a spectacle, with a very large number of Red-footed Boobies and even larger numbers of Brown Noddies. At least six Tahiti Petrels were also observed, as were eight Wedgedtailed Shearwaters and both Red-tailed and White-tailed Tropicbirds. January 25 th Tahiti We ended our trip with three days on Tahiti. After disembarking the Marina at 8:00 am, we were picked up by an Avis van and taken to their downtown rental office. After getting the small sedan, we drove out to do some land-birding. Unfortunately, we soon discovered that a tropical storm three weeks earlier had washed out the roads leading into the Papenoo Valley and to the Three Cascades (our initial destinations), causing serious destruction of homes and several deaths, This unexpected turn of events essentially limited road access to high clearance vehicles and we were unable to drive these roads in our small rental car. Fortunately, the storm had not affected the very important Papahue Valley where the majority of the critically endangered Tahiti Monarch breed. However, the flooding greatly diminished our chances of seeing two of Tahiti s endemics. In the afternoon we met Eric Sartini in Arue; he was the very welcoming owner of the apartment Sally had rented through Airbnb. After getting the key and unloading luggage, we went shopping for food since meals from now on with the exception of two lunches at the convenient Arue McDonald s --would be self-catering.. The apartment, located in the hills of Erima, turned out to have a spectacular view of Papeete and the north coast. It also had a swimming pool! January 26: Philippe Raust (in center of photo with Sally Wechsler and Barry Cooper) of MANU had very generously volunteered to guide us into the Papahue Valley. He met us in Arue, and we drove in his car to the west coast and up to the gates at the beginning of the reserve. There we met up with two friends from the ship, Bob and Susan French, also keen birders. The walk in is quite tough but not too long, lots of rocks and roots, plus two stream crossings. However, the chance to observe one of the world s rarest birds, the Tahiti Monarch, was worth it! We saw five in all, including an active nest and a very tame immature individual. An added bonus was a further walk into a narrow rocky canyon where there is a large colony of Tahiti 7

8 Swiftlets. We estimated about 200+ birds in their nests and flying close by. Other birds seen included two Tahiti Kingfishers and a single Pacific Swallow. MANU is doing a great deal in this and several adjacent valleys to restore habitat by eliminating invasive plants, non-native birds, rats and (recently) fire ants. The Tahiti Monarch population has stabilized and is now slowly increasing. They estimate there are about 50 birds left so we saw 10% of the world s population! After this rather strenuous morning. Philippe took us back to Arue with a short detour for us to buy fresh fruit much appreciated. The rest of the afternoon we chilled out. January 27 th The next day we drove around the island, stopping at the Botanical Gardens on the south coast. We didn t add much there except some Crimson-rumped Tanagers, very attractive birds although an introduced species. We also tried to access several roads up into the interior in hopes of finding the Reed Warbler, but they all proved impassible for our low-clearance car. On the west coast we stopped at the archeological site of Marae Arahurahu, where Philippe had told us we should find the Grey-green Fruit Doves. This proved to be a good tip, and we saw 5-6 of them, mostly in flight. Other birds seen here included several introduced birds including Silvereye, Chestnut Munia and a soaring Swamp Harrier. Again, after lunch we chilled out and packed for the next day, when we would be flying home. January 28 th The final morning we decided to try driving up the Papenoo Valley again hoping that water levels had dropped and we could look for our final endemic Tahiti Reed Warbler. Unfortunately we found deep water still flowing across the road. However, just short of this washout, Gail noticed a stand of bamboo (the warbler s preferred habitat) growing up on the side of the valley. A short burst of our recording of its song provided an immediate reaction with a black morph Reed Warbler perched up on the bamboo singing for several minutes. A great way to end a very enjoyable 3 week trip!. Bird List: Black-browed Albatross: A total of sixteen birds recorded during the first two full days at sea. Most birds were immatures, seen on the inshore waters around Robinson Crusoe Island associating with the lobster fishing boats. Grey-headed Albatross: A single cracking adult seen on the second day of the cruise east of Robinson Crusoe Island. Tahiti Petrel: At least twelve birds seen over two days. All birds seen were either approaching Bora Bora in the late afternoon or departing the island the following morning. Juan Fernandez Petrel: The most widespread of all of the petrel species being recorded on eight days with a daily maximum of sixty-five birds. [This very likely a low count due to somewhat limited coverage] All birds were seen east of Pitcairn Island. A single bird was found stranded in a corner on the 14 th deck, presumably it came aboard the 8

9 previous night attracted by the ship s lights. It seemed quite healthy and was released overboard and flew off strongly. Phoenix Petrel: (right) Up to four birds well seen at Motu Nui off Easter Island and a single bird close to the ship the day before we reached Pitcairn Island. Other distant birds may have been of this species. Herald Petrel: (left) Recorded on three days with up to thirty birds seen around a small breeding island [Motu Nui] off Easter Island. Otherwise, only two others seen including one near Pitcairn Island.. Murphy s Petrel: Just a single bird seen off shore of Pitcairn Island. This is a winter breeder to Pitcairn and Tuamotus and moves north after the breeding season, which probably explains our lack of sightings. Henderson s Petrel Two birds seen at the petrel breeding motu off Easter Island. De Fillippi s (Masatierra) Petrel: Recorded on two of the first four days at sea with an impressive 150 birds on January 8 th as the ship was heading towards their Robinson Crusoe breeding site. Kermadec Petrel: (left) Birds recorded at two Motus with at least six dark-phase birds seen around a motu off Robinson Crusoe Island and twelve more (both light and intermediate phases) around Motu Nui off Easter Island, Otherwise just a single bird seen at sea. [Soft-plumaged Petrel] Five birds seen on January 15 th about 100 miles west of Easter Island considered to be probably of this species. Smallish Pterodromas with pale grey upperparts, pale grayish head and white underparts. Under wing a solid very dark slaty grey-black contrasting noticeably with pale head and under parts.unfortunately, no photos obtained. This species range extends to the extreme southwest Pacific.[Olney and Scofield]. However, in September, 2014 Flood, Howell, Zufelt and others recorded this species south of Pitcairn Island [several hundred miles to the west of our sighting]. 9

10 White-chinned Petrel: Unexpectedly rare, based on our previous cruises in the area. Only a single bird seen on our first full day at sea. Plus a Procelleira sp. flew directly above us and away at Pitcairn Island. Southern Giant Petrel: Three bird seen from our small boat ride at Robinson Crusoe Island. Sooty Shearwater: Two birds seen the first evening as the Marina departed Valparaiso. Buller s Shearwater: An estimated 120 birds seen on our first full day at sea as the cruise ship was about 150 nautical miles west of Valparaiso. Pink-footed Shearwater: (right) Recorded on three days. A thousand plus birds seen departing their breeding colonies on Robinson Crusoe Island on the evening of January 9 th was a very impressive sight. Wedged-tailed Shearwater: Recorded on two days with a maximum of eight birds seen on the evening of January 24 th as the ship departed from Bora Bora. Christmas Island Shearwater: A total of four birds seen of this distinctive small dark shearwater including three on our final full day at sea prior to reaching Pitcairn Island. Tropical Shearwater: Just two birds recorded with a single bird seen as we approached Pitcairn Island and another approaching Fakarava. Wilson s Storm-Petrel: Our only sighting was of four birds seen on our first evening departing from Valparaiso. White-bellied Storm-Petrel: Recorded on two dates. This included at least thirty birds seen exceptionally well flying very close to and alongside the Marina as it departed Robinson Crusoe Island on the evening of January 9 th. Very likely birds returning to their breeding sites on the island after a day feeding at sea. Peruvian Diving Petrel: A single bird seen quite well on our first evening as we departed Valparaiso. Red-tailed Tropicbird: Easily the most common tropicbird. Very numerous around Pitcairn Island with at least forty birds seen soaring around the cliffs as the Marina slowly scenic cruised around the island. In all recorded on nine days. White-tailed Tropicbird Recorded on four days with a maximum of four birds seen on our drive around Bora Bora. Magellenic Penguin: We visited a breeding colony at Isla Cachagua, near Zapallar about twenty miles north of Valparaiso. We were disappointed to only see about thirty 10

11 birds, including juveniles. Rodrigo indicated up to 300 pairs normally breed and he attributed the low numbers to the very strong El Niño and ongoing predation by the Kelp Gull. Great Frigatebird : Seen principally in the vicinity of the various islands. This included at least twenty around Pitcairn and also common around Fakarava. Lesser Frigatebird: Recorded on two days with three at Fakarava and a single at Bora Bora. Probably undercounted due to difficulty identifying distant, single birds. Peruvian Booby: Very common on inshore waters as we departed Valparaiso. Only a single bird seen while at sea. Masked Booby: Apart from two or three birds at sea, this species was only recorded around Easter Island where a breeding colony [estimated at fifty pairs] was located on a nearby motu. Red-footed Booby: (right) Unrecorded during our first ten days of the cruise, this booby became increasingly common the farther west we traveled. First recorded around Pitcairn [25 birds] increasing each following day to peak at a very impressive 450+ during a one-hour sea-watch as the ship departed Bora Bora. Brown Booby: Recorded on two days including 25 birds seen on small Rangiroa motu. Peruvian Pelican: Common coastal species around Valparaiso. Neotropical Cormorant: Common and widespread around Valparaiso.. Red-legged Cormorant: A total of eleven birds seen along the coast at Valparaiso. Guanay Cormorant: About twenty birds seen at various coastal sites around Valparaiso. Red Jungle fowl: Three birds of this introduced species were seen on Bora Bora. Cocoi Heron: A rather unexpected species. Seen at a small lake in a largely grassland area inland of Vina del Mar. Great Egret: a Total of five birds seen in and around Valparaiso. Snowy Egret: Fairly common and widespread around and inland of Valparaiso. Pacific Reef Heron: Recorded in small numbers on Rangiroa, Bora Bora, and Tahiti with a maximum of five birds seen on Rangiroa. Cattle Egret: Fairly common and widespread in Chile. 11

12 Black-crowned Night Heron: Single bird seen at an inland wetland in Chile. Black-necked Swan: Two birds seen at the Candelco Lagoon, Chile. Pacific Black Duck: We were quite surprised to see a single bird swimming around a very muddy flood- water pool in the Papenoo Valley, Tahiti. Chiloe Wigeon: Recorded both days in Chile with a maximum of 30 birds at Candelco Lagoon, Chile. Cinnamon Teal: About eight birds seen at the Candelco Lagoon, Chile. Red Shoveller: Four birds seen at the Candelco Lagoon. Yellow-billed Pintail: Ten birds seen at the Candelco Lagoon. Black-headed Duck: Two birds of this parasitic duck were seen at Candelco Lagoon. Lake Duck: A total of eight birds seen over our first two days in Chile. Great Grebe: At least two pairs of this large attractive grebe were recorded in Chile. Each pair had 1-2 juveniles that spent time resting on the adult s back. White-tufted Grebe: A total of six birds of this attractive grebe were recorded in Chile. Black Vulture: Fairly common and widespread in Chile Turkey Vulture: Fairly common and widespread in Chile. Cinerous Harrier: We had great views of a pair of this very attractive raptor as they hunted over an extensive grassland area inland of Viña del Mar. Swamp Harrier: A total of four birds seen on Tahiti including at least one seen on multiple occasions from our rental apartment. Harris s Hawk: Four birds seen at a couple of sites including Cerro de Campaña N.P. Chile. Variable Hawk: A single bird seen at Cerro de Campaña N.P. Chile Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle: Two individuals of this large, impressive raptor were observed at Cerro de Campaña N.P. Chile Red-gartered Coot: The most numerous coot species, being recorded on both days in Chile. Red-fronted Coot: Another fairly common species outside of Valparaiso, Chile White-winged Coot: The smallest of the three and the least common with just a single bird seen at wetlands outside of Valparaiso. 12

13 Black-necked Stilt: Fairly common at various wetland sites around Valparaiso. American Oystercatcher: A total of eight birds seen over the two days birding coastal sites around Valparaiso.. Blackish Oystercatcher: Surprisingly scarce with just six birds seen at coastal sites around Valparaiso... Southern Lapwing (right): A common and widespread grassland species in Chile. Pacific Golden Plover: About fifteen birds seen on the grasslands at Fakarava Airport plus single birds seen on Bora Bora and Tahiti. Bristled-thighed Curlew: One of our most wanted birds of the trip. Seen only on Rangiroa where it was quite common around the tidal flats and wooded motus in the vicinity of the Blue Lagoon, with an estimate of about ten birds seen. This included a single bird viewed from about ten yards perched on a log in the middle of a heavily wooded motu! They were very shy and rarely allowed close approach, much less photography! American Whimbrel: Common in the vicinity of Cadelco Lagoon with about 120 birds seen. Greater Yellowlegs: Just a single bird recorded in Chile. Wandering Tattler: A total of six birds recorded on four dates in Polynesia. This included three at various coastal sites on Bora Bora. Ruddy Turnstone: Fifteen birds seen along the coast north. of Valparaiso. Surfbird: Five birds seen in flight along the coast at Valparaiso. Pomarine Jaeger: Four birds seen on the first evening as the cruise ship departed Valparaiso. Franklin s Gull: An abundant coastal gull in Chile with one flock seen probably totaled at least a thousand birds. Kelp Gull: Another very common widespread gull in Chile. Swallow-tailed Gull: One of the most unexpected birds of the cruise. A single immature was seen and photographed swimming quite close to the ship on our first full day at sea probably about 150 nautical miles west of the Chilean coast. Arctic Tern: A party of four birds studied at some length as the Marina departed Valparaiso on the first evening of the cruise. Great Crested Tern: This inshore tern was recorded around all the Polynesian Islands with a maximum of fifteen birds on Bora Bora. 13

14 Inca Tern: A very common coastal tern, probably several hundred birds seen during our day s coastal birding around Valparaiso. Sooty Tern: Two records with a party of twenty-five birds seen on our first full day at sea and five more seen on the following day off Robinson Crusoe Island. Grey-backed Tern: We enjoyed watching a party of six birds feeding right where the Marina was docked at Fakarava and six more the following day as we crossed the reef heading into Rangiroa. These are the first Greybacked Terns Barry and Gail have seen in over twenty years [our previous sighting was in Hawaii]. White Tern: (right) First recorded at sea one day west of Easter Island with a single bird. It became increasingly common the further west we headed and was recorded daily with a maximum of 50+ birds seen at sea. Also, very common in Polynesia with at least a couple of hundred seen around Motu Omai and in the lagoon at Rangiroa, and again on Bora Bora and Tahiti. Grey Ternlet: Recorded on three days including a party of thirty birds seen departing Pitcairn for a day s fishing offshore plus thirty more seen as we crossed the lagoon at Rangiroa. Brown Noddy: Not recorded until Easter Island where about forty birds seen, with evidence of breeding. Encountered again at Pitcairn [50 birds] and then daily in large numbers. The maximum estimated was low thousands at the motu and Blue Lagoon area at Rangiroa Black Noddy: Much less numerous than the previous species. About ten birds seen with Brown Noddies at Pitcairn. Recorded in the hundreds at Motu Omai and Blue Lagoon area at Rangiroa... Black Skimmer: Recorded on both of our days birding in Chile with a maximum of thirty birds. Zebra Dove: A common and widespread species on all four islands in Polynesia. We simply just ticked it in the daily log. Picui Grond Dove: Fairly common at Cerro de Campaña N.P, Chile. with about thirty birds seen in several hours of birding there. Eared Dove: Recorded in small numbers each day in Chile [daily maximum only five birds]. 14

15 Grey Green Fruit Dove: A difficult bird to obtain good views of, most being of individuals in flight. In all, we recorded about eight birds on Tahiti. We found the best site for this species was Marae Ahurarhua, on the west coast. We also had a couple near the Reed Warbler site in the Papenoo Valley. Leeward Islands Fruit Dove: SW scored with this recently split species when she took a 4-wheel drive excursion from the ship up into the interior of Bora Bora. Two birds were seen feeding in the orchards near an artist s studio. [Polynesian Ground Dove] We are including this bird that we did NOT see since other birders should know be aware that the birds on Motu Omai may well be extirpated (see above for January 22). Anyone planning to go to the expense of organizing a trip to see the dove should enquire from MANU whether any still exist at Rangiroa, and if so, where. Tahiti Swiftlet: (right) Philippe Raust guided us to a very impressive canyon in the Papahue Valley where a large colony of Tahiti Swiftlets was breeding. The trail was pretty tough but well worth it He estimated about 500 nesting pairs all extremely close together high up on the face of the canyon. Quite an unforgettable experience.! Giant Hummingbird: Two individuals of the world s largest hummingbird were enjoyed at Cerro de Campaña N.P. They spent much of their time flycatching and not nectar feeding.. Blue Lorikeet: (left) This highly attractive small parakeet appeared to be quite common on the wooded motus near the Blue Lagoon at Rangiroa. We easily found six without any trouble and two birders snorkeling around a different area also had no problem seeing this species. Burrowing Owl: Just a single bird observed from our van on the drive to Cerro de Campaña N.P. in Chile. Juan Fernandez Firecrown: We had extremely close views of a pair of this exquisite hummer on Juan Fernandez Island. In fact, the stunning male was watched feeding in a small flowering tree from down to 5 6 feet! According to Christian Lopez the species is in decline partly due to predation by free-ranging cats, many owned by villagers. This is ironic since the islanders make much of their hummingbird but, per Christian, refuse to keep their cats inside! Without doubt the top land bird of the trip. (Alas no photo, just as GBM had it in her viewfinder, it zipped off!) 15

16 Chattering Kingfisher: Our plan of hiring a car for the morning on Bora Bora paid off. We managed to find a hardtop road that led for a short distance [less than a mile] up into the mountainous interior of the island. At the point where the road became unpaved and splits three ways, there is a water catchment tank along a stream. Gail played a recording of its call and almost immediately we heard the kingfisher calling back. Shortly after that it approached quite close for a good view. Later a second bird appeared and a third was heard calling nearby. Tahiti Kingfisher: Three birds seen, one was at the start of the Papahue Valley trail, another farther along the valley and a third bird briefly seen along the Papenoo Valley where it flew in to playback. Striped Woodpecker: A single male was seen at Cerro de Campaña N.P. Chile Chimango Caracara: Up to ten birds recorded both days on mainland Chile. Widespread and very common on Easter Island. American Kestrel: Four birds seen at Cerro de Campaña N.P. Moustached Turca (left): : Without doubt the most enjoyable species seen during our first two days birding in Chile. No less than eight birds were well seen at Cerro de Campaña N.P and another six heard only. Some birds were watched chasing each other while others were digging away in the leaf litter looking for food. A great way to start our trip! de Campaña N.P. White-thoated Tapaculo: Another very enjoyable tapaculo with two birds seen at close range again at Cerro Dusky Tapaculo: Heard only at (the wetland area) where it responded to tape but typically - refused to show itself. Chilean Seaside Cinclodes: Two birds seen on rocks along the seafront at Vina Del Mar and another at the Humboldt Penguin colony. Thorn-tailed Royadito: Two birds recorded at Cerro de Campaña N.P. Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail: Two birds seen at Cerro de Campaña N.P. Tufted Tit-Tyrant: Another Cerro de Campaña N.P. sighting with four birds seen. Juan Fernandez Tit-Tyrant (right): A single bird of this island endemic was pished-in and well seen. We did not make a special effort see other individuals, but understand this endemic is faring quite well. 16

17 White-crested Eleania: Several birds seen at different Chilean sites. Tahiti Monarch (left): One of the best moments of the trip was observing five Tahiti Monarchs. We saw three adults, including a pair feeding young at a nest. Additionally, a recently fledged gray juvenile was briefly observed. Best of all, a very inquisitive, beautiful one year old bird was watched at close range for several minutes. Quite unlike the all-black plumage of adults, this bird had a very attractive warm orange head and underparts, with the upper-parts showing a mixture of orange and black. The five birds seen represent about 10% of the total population of this critically endangered species! Many-colored Rush Tyrant: Very nice views obtained of this small colorful gem at a wetland outside of Viña del Mar, Chile. Austral Negrito: Two birds seen in a grassland area near Santa Julia.. Spectacled Tyrant: We were hoping to see this attractive tyrant and were not disappointed with great views of two birds feeding in a pasture/grassland area near Santa Julia. Great Shrike-Tyrant: We had a difficult time catching up with large mobile species. Eventually a couple of us obtained brief views of two birds at Posada del Parque Chile Fire-eyed Diucon: Jut a single bird seen perched in a hedgerow near the penguin colony parking area. Rufous-tailed Plantcutter: A total of four birds seen including three together in bushes near the parking lot for the penguin colony. Red-vented Bulbul: This invasive species was abundant on Tahiti. Fortunately, it did not appear to be present on Fakarava, Rangiroa or Bora Bora. Pacific Swallow: Very scarce with only a few seen on Tahiti. Chilean Swallow: Fairly common and widespread. Blue -and-white Swallow: Another common and widespread hirundine. Tahiti Reed Warbler: On our last day s birding we drove a short distance back down the Papenoo Valley to find that the road was still under water. While we were debating what to do, Gail noticed a large growth of bamboo about a third of the way up the steep side of the valley. This was our last hope of connecting with this endemic. After a short burst of the playback, a black 17

18 morph Reed Warbler immediately responded. It perched in full view on the top of the bamboo singing loudly. It stayed perched long enough for Gail to go back to car, pick up the camera and return to get some distant shots. This was a great way to end a long but very enjoyable trip. Silvereye: Fairly common on Tahiti but not seen on the other Polynesian Islands. Southern House Wren: A single bird seen. Austral Thrush: Common at Cerro de Campaña N.P. Chile with at least ten birds seen. Also heard singing but not seen on Robinson Crusoe Island. Chilean Mockingbird: The most abundant bird at Cerro de Campaña N.P. with at least a couple of dozen seen. Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch: Both the coastal and interior races seen with two of interior race and six of the coastal form. Rodrigo says these are potential splits. Common Diuca Finch (right): Common and widespread with a daily maximum of fifteen birds on mainland Chile. It was also abundant on Easter Island, where it and the House Sparrow are the only passerines. Grassland Yellow Finch: A total of ten birds seen over the two days in Chile. Rufous-collared Sparrow: Common and widespread in Chile. Long-tailed Meadowlark: Fairly common in grassland habitat. in Chile. Austral Blackbird: Another common bird in mainly wet grassland habitat. Yellow-winged Blackbird: A total of six birds seen including four at the Candelco Lagoon wetland. Shiny Cowbird: Common and widespread in Chile. Black-chinned Siskin: Two birds seen at Cerro de Campaña N.P House Sparrow: Common and widespread both on the Chilean mainland and on Easter Island. Common Myna: Very common and widespread on Tahiti. Fortunately seemingly absent from the other islands visited. Common Waxbill: Common on Tahiti. Red-browed Firetail: Usually seen in a mixed flock with Waxbills; most common in the southeast Tahiti, e.g. in and around the Botanical Gardens.. 18

19 Chestnut breasted Mannikin: About eight birds seen on Bora Bora and fairly common on Tahiti. Crimson-backed Tanager: This non-native species was extremely attractive. It was locally fairly common in the southeast of Tahiti. At least six birds were seen including sightings at the Botanical Gardens and other areas nearby, including a pair investigating a possible nest site in a Pandanus shrub in the front yard of a school. Contact Information: Rodrigo Reyes Guide for Chile mainland and he also arranged our day with Cristian Lopez on Robinson Crusoe Island. birdwatchingchile@gmail.com Easter Island motu tour booked from USA with Juan Gomez Espinoza, Mahinatur: contacto@mahinatur.cl Easter Island cultural tour booked from USA with Christina Reams, christina.reams@gmail.com (Konturi s wife) Rangiroa we booked a private boat across to Motu Omai but with the apparent absence of the Ground-dove there, a far less expensive option would be to book a regular tour to the well-known Blue Lagoon where you can see the Lorikeet and the Reed Warbler at the picnic site. These are offered by many operators on the island. Tahiti Arrangements to see the Monarch must be made through MANU, the Ornithological Society of French Polynesia bird conservation. Their web site, contains a great deal of information on birding in Polynesia. The Society can be contacted at info@manu.pf. Since these tours are conducted as a favor to birders, a contribution of about USD 50 per person is appreciated. 19