Extremadura, Spain, 15th - 19th April 2004

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1 Extremadura, Spain, 15th - 19th April 2004 I visited in this fantastic area in May 2003 and decided on a return visit with three friends - Dave Bickerton, Bill Berry & Mark Breaks. Logistics Cheap fights with EasyJet from Liverpool to Madrid, booked as soon as they became available in late December. Accommodation was identified via the internet. We decided to try something different from the usual locations of Trujillo & Torrejon el Rubio and settled for the El Tenado guest house ( in sleepy La Aldea Del Obispo - which lies between the two. Guides We found John Muddeman s excellent A Birdwatching Guide to Extremadura was all that was required to cover the area we visited. All the sites outlined in this report can be found in that guide. This was supplemented by the numerous trip reports available on Surfbirds, of which we found Simon Woolley s particularly useful. Itinerary & Key Species Thursday 15 th Arrived in Madrid on time at we picked up our hire car and headed for Almaraz, just off the NV, 12 km s south west of Navalmoral. Close to the town is Embalse de Arroyocampo which proved to be an excellent spot to break up the journey.

2 The reed fringed margins to the lake provided good views of three Purple Gallinules, two Purple Herons, three reeling Savi s Warblers & pair of Marsh Harriers. Also present were White Stork & Little Egret along with Cetti s & Fan Tailed Warblers. The surrounding scrub also produced a small flock of Spanish Sparrows, several Crested Larks and a smart male rubicola Stonechat. Purple Gallinule We arrived at the accommodation, quickly found the only bar in the town and had a couple of beers before returning to the guest house. Friday 16 th A visit to the famous Belen Steppe at dawn produced the first of many displaying Little and Great Bustards. These fantastic birds were supported by a strong cast which included Egyptian Vulture, Montagu s Harrier, Lesser Kestrel, Stone Curlew, Hoopoe, Calandra Lark, Red Rumped Swallow, Southern Grey Shrike and Black Eared Wheatear. On returning to the village for breakfast we crossed a small stream which afforded fabulous views of Bee eaters excavating nest holes and a Kingfisher flashed by. Red-rumped Swallow & Great Bustard (JW) After a generous breakfast we headed out of La Aldea del Obispo into the dehesa &steppe between there and Santa Marta de Magasca. Our first stop produced a typical range of dehesa species with Woodchat Shrike, Hoopoe, Azure Winged Magpie and Thekla Lark easily seen. Another delightful feature of this area was the beautiful song of the Woodlark given as the birds displayed overhead. As the day warmed up many raptors began to take to the air and Black Kites, Griffon Vultures and our first majestic Black Vulture were seen.

3 Thekla Lark We then headed for Monroy stopping just below the village at a bridge over the Rio Almonte. Here breeding Crag Martins passed just a few inches away, their tail spots easily visible with the naked eye. On the river Little Ringed Plovers were noted and Serins were common in the surrounding scrub. Overhead a pair of large raptors were quickly identified as the much sought after Bonelli s Eagle but this sighting was disappointingly brief. Our first pale phase Booted Eagle provided some compensation and was much more obliging. (DB) After lunch in Monroy, and superb views of a male Lesser Kestrel consuming a lizard, we returned to the Rio Almonte. Careful searching revealed the presence of a pair of Blue Rock Thrush and then, as hoped, the pair of Bonellis Eagles returned and showed well as they moved back up river. (DB)

4 Whilst travelling to Monfrague we were very fortunate to witness a Spanish Imperial Eagle carrying a hare. To our amazement it then landed next to its mate and the pair copulated. Another raptor then appeared which turned out to be a Short Toed Eagle, with a partially swallowed snake still visible as it circled above us! Of all the special moments on this trip this incident in particular encapsulated the magic of this special area. We then headed for the impressive rock face of Pena Falcon. The wind had markedly increased but the many Griffon Vultures that cruised around us still put on a spectacular show. Also present were singing male Rock Bunting & Black Redstart. An occupied Black Stork nest was another attraction at this site. A move round to the Bridge produced excellent views of several Alpine Swifts around the huge House Martin colony. Surprisingly good views of a singing Nightingale were also obtained. Little Bustard & Griffon Vulture (DB) Moving on to Tietar we had 3 more Black Storks, two Egyptian Vultures, Short Toed Eagle and a male Subalpine Warbler, whilst a fabulous flock of 150 Bee eaters moved through. Unfortunately the wind was now howling down the gorge and our only real disappointment of the trip occurred when we missed the usually reliable Eagle Owl. Saturday 17 th After an early breakfast we headed out onto the steppe close to the village and quickly found a noisy collection of displaying Stone Curlews, farting Little Bustards & quarrelsome Great Spotted Cuckoo s. These birds were proving very entertaining when a fly past by a male & two female Little Bustards increased the excitement further. Another male could not resist this stimulus and started displaying from a rock close to the road, allowing fabulous close views. A careful scan of surrounding fields then provided another highlight when a group of seven Great Bustards appeared & showed well in the diffuse morning light. We then moved onto to a large cultivated field which we had thought looked promising for Sandgrouse the previous day. The presence of several Red Kites and a Tawny Pipit was welcome. Then as hoped the distinctive coarse calls of Pin Tailed Sandgrouse were heard, initially in the distance. A quick scan produced a loose flock of 20 birds which split up into groups of three and four as they approached closer, then circled us for several minutes. The calls then died away as the birds landed out of sight.

5 Tawny Pipit We then drove down to Embalse de Guadiloba which lies just off the N 521 between Trujillo & Caceres. Highlights here were Collared Pratincole & Black Winged Silt. After lunch in a nearby café we drove back east on the N 521 until we spotted a farm track close to several nest boxes on telegraph poles. Despite competition from Jackdaws at least seven delightful Rollers where present and excellent views were had of birds chasing away the competition. Roller We then headed out on a rather rough track and pulled over to check through a numbers of Swifts that had appeared at low level and in excellent light. Careful scanning revealed the presence of two Pallid Swifts amongst them, with the birds passing so close that the scaling on the underparts could be seen. We then continued around the track with the highlights being 3 Short Toed Larks & five Black Eared Wheatears. We then moved onto a well known site just north of Monroy by a tree nesting White Stork colony. We soon spotted numerous birds of prey including our first dark phase Booted Eagle but our main quarry was initially elusive. Thankfully a Black Shouldered Kite finally appeared perched on distant power lines. Before long the bird began hunting and gave superb views as it hovered over the dehesa close by. This much hoped for little poser was later voted bird of the trip. Black-shouldered Kite

6 Delighted we headed back to the guest house retracing our path through the steppe and were fortunate to locate another Black Shouldered Kite. An excellent day ended in a small restaurant just off the delightful main square in Trujillo. (DB) Sunday 18 th Another early breakfast and then out for a full day in Monfrague. For the first time on the trip grey skies & drizzle persisted until late morning and this reduced the number of species seen. Excellent views of Black Stork & Egyptian Vulture helped to lift the gloom. Sardinian Warblers were common and Cirl Bunting, Tree Pipit & irbii Long Tailed Tits were also noted. We came across some hives which had very little bee activity but a lot of Bee eaters 60 in total making a marvellous spectacle on such a dull day. Black Stork As the cloud lifted and the drizzle stopped we moved on towards the Castle when a Rock Sparrow was seen. We parked the car and were treated to good views of four of these perky birds feeding nearby. The wind was brisk when we made it up to the Castle which kept the birds low and afforded excellent views of many Griffon Vultures. Lunch at Villareal de San Carlos was followed by a walk on the Green Trail which begins opposite the information centre. Although still breezy visibility was good and the rain had cleared. A nice range of species were encountered which included Short Toed Treecreeper, Golden Oriole, Crested Tit, Wood Lark and numerous Subalpine Warblers. Raptors also put on a good show with the highlight being a 2cy Golden Eagle our fifth eagle species of the trip. Then we made the short trip to Mirador de la Bascula. Although there was no sign of any Imperial Eagles an active Black Vulture nest was located on the nearest ridge. Fantastic views were had of the vultures low overhead with an equally close Booted Eagle and a pair of Short Toed Eagles to finish off another bird filled day.

7 Black Vulture Monday 19 th - For the final morning we decided to again visit the steppe & dehesa close to the village. The same cast was still in place with four Great Spotted Cuckoos showing particularly well. Nearby, several Lesser Kestrels & Southern Grey Shrikes were alarm calling and mobbing an unseen predator. The reason for their unhappiness became apparent when we flushed a Goshawk from the scrub. As we drove onto towards Santa Marta de Magasca we encountered nice flock of seven Tawny Pipits. Great Spotted Cuckoo We then followed the road towards Trujillo and in a small arable field we were treated to the spectacle of 8 Montagu s Harriers sparring with 2 Red Kites. A little further on we encountered a flock of 12 Great Bustards - an excellent way to end our time in Extremadura. On the way to the airport we stopped briefly again at Embalse de Arroyocampo, with the highlight being a singing Great Reed Warbler. As we drove along the NV towards Madrid a group of terns was spotted following a tractor. We pulled off the motorway on to a service road which took us back to the spot. Behind the tractor was a group of Gull Billed Terns, four of which quartered close by and gave splendid views dipping down to pick up insects; an unexpected highlight with which to end the trip. John Wright

8 Checklist Key Species Black Stork (Ciconia nigra) Three nest sites observed with sitting birds: Arroyo de la Vid, Pena Falcon and Tietar. one over-flying bird at the former site that perched up on a rock overhanging the river. Black-shouldered Kite (Elanus caeruleus) 2 seen on 17/04/2004. One seen about 3km north of Monroy (we drew a black here the previous day). About 5pm, it was hunting and perched on wires. A second was seen hunting on the Monroy/Trujillo road just west of the turning for Santa Maria on our return. Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) One or two seen every day, mainly in Monfrague region. Eurasian Griffon-vulture (Gyps fulvus) Seen all over but larger concentrations nearer the nesting/roosting sites in Monfrague. Black Vulture (Aegypius monachus) Scarce but seen daily without any trouble at all. Could come across them anywhere in the region normally in ones and twos. Many chances to compare the different soaring and gliding wing shape with the much commoner Griffons. Short-toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) Seen everywhere in ones or twos. Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) Seen everywhere in ones or twos. Montagu's Harrier (Circus pygargus) Very common over the open fields. Some concentrations included up to eight birds. Northern Goshawk (Accipiter gentilis) A single bird over the juction of the Aldea del Obispo back road an the Trujillo/Monroy road. Spanish Imperial Eagle (Aquila (heliaca) adalberti) on 16th a male joined by a female carrying a hare and then the pair copulated before the male flew off - an amazing five minutes! Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) 2cy over Villereal de San Carlos with about 15 Griffon's on 18th. Bonelli's Eagle (Hieraaetus fasciatus) Two birds seen on two occasions over the bridge at Rio Almonte on 16th. Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) Several seen - normally individual pale phase, especially around Monroy and Villereal but one dark phase seen. Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanni) Very common seen all over the open fields and in small colonies in towns and villages. Purple Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio) 3 at Embalse de Arroyocampo near Almaraz on both brief visits. Little Bustard (Tetrax tetrax) Seen everywhere, normally best an hour after dawn but were 'farting' all day. Again, best views were just behind the village we were staying in (Aldea del Obispo). We met a guy who had only had a flight view all day - there was one displaying and calling 100 meters away if he'd only got out of his car!

9 Great Bustard (Otis tarda) Seen daily in flocks of up to 12. First one or two seen on Belen but the fields behind Aldea del Obispo had seven birds on the 17th whilst on the last day we had 12 birds in one field (including displaying males) SE of Santa Maria de Magasca. Gull-billed Tern (Sterna nilotica) 20 folowing tractor just east of Navalmoral on 19th. Pin-tailed Sandgrouse (Pterocles alchata) 20 at Trujillo/Monfrague on 17/04/2004. A few flying groups of four or five birds in the air at once around 9am on the big bend in the Trujillo/Monroy road just west of Aldea del Obispo. Great Spotted Cuckoo (Clamator glandarius) Seen east of Aldea del Obispo on two mornings. Alpine Swift (Tachymarptis melba) 6 at Pena Falcon & 2 around the Tajo bridge in Monfrague on 16th. Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus) Scarce. A few seen with migrating Swifts and also in Trujillo European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster) Very common. Seen everywhere and one flock was nearing 150 birds. European Roller (Coracias garrulus) 12 seen on wires and poles around Caceres. One seen in Monfrague. Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops) Very common. Seen everywhere in the region. Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra) Very common. Ubiquitous in the open fields. Greater Short-toed Lark (Calandrella (cinerea) brachydactyla) 4 seen in the tops of the plains at a couple of sites. Crested Lark (Galerida cristata) Very common in the cultivated areas. Thekla Lark (Galerida (malabarica) theklae) Very common in the dehesa. Had great fun separating these from Crested but with practice they could be told apart. Habitat was key but not every time - dehesa best for Thekla's and barren open areas for Crested. Eurasian Crag-martin (Hirundo rupestris) Very common. Rivers, villages, cliff faces - all over. Great views on the bridge at Rio Almonte Red-rumped Swallow (Hirundo daurica rufula) Common. Mainly around bridges over streams and rivers but not exclusively so. Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris) A total of 8 seen on the Trujillo/Monroy road on a couple of occasions. Black-eared Wheatear (Oenanthe hispanica) Scarce. Probably commoner than we realised but in the right habitat, there were several. Blue Rock-thrush (Monticola solitarius) Seen and heard on all rocky areas around rivers.

10 Fan tailed Warbler (Cisticola juncidis) Very common. Seen in most areas. Savi's Warbler (Locustella luscinioides) 3 at Embalse de Arroyocampo on 15th Great Reed-warbler (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) 1 at Embalse de Arroyocampo on 19th Bonelli s Warbler (Phylloscopus bonelli) 1 singing at Arroyo de la Vid on the 18th Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala) Several seen and heard in the dehesa. Subalpine Warbler (Sylvia cantillans) Common at Monfrague in the lower reaches. Short-toed Treecreeper (Certhia brachydactyla) 1 seen on the Green trail near Villareal on 18th Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus) 1 heard on the Green trail near Villareal on 18 th Southern Grey Shrike (Lanius (excubitor) meridionalis) Common. Seen everywhere but never as many as Woodchat. Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) Very common. Seen everywhere in high densities at times. Azure-winged Magpie (Cyanopica cyana) Very common Spotless Starling (Sturnus unicolor) Very common. Spanish Sparrow (Passer hispaniolensis) Very common at Trujillo/Monfrague. Many colonies seen - best places to view around Arroyo de la Vid and Rio Almonte. Rock Sparrow (Petronia petronia) 4 feeding next to the road near to Monfrague castle car park on 18th. European Serin (Serinus serinus) Very common. Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus) Scarce in the wooded areas. Rock Bunting (Emberiza cia) Scarce. Several seen in Monfrague in rocky areas - as you might expect! Dave Bickerton Photographs taken by Dave Bickerton, John Wright and Mark Breaks