Dundalk LeisureCraft Nordic Sauna Assembly Instructions

Transcription

1 Dundalk LeisureCraft Nordic Sauna Assembly Instructions Rough Draft Please read and understand the complete instructions prior to assembly and use of your sauna. Required: 2 People (recommended) Rubber Mallet 6 Step Ladder Cordless Drill (we supply the bit) Carpenter s Level 7/16 Wrench Tape Measure 1 ½ roofing nails or staples Silicone Caulking (optional)

2 Preparing the base: A full gravel pad, or individual gravel pads for each footing: Clear loose vegetation and soil, level the ground, and fill the area with 2-4 of crushed limestone gravel or screening. Level and tamp. Patio Stones or Deck Blocks are also an option. A solid concrete slab, or a new or existing wooden deck all good options as long as they drain well. Consult a professional building contractor if you re not sure how to proceed with these options. Building the floor: Begin by assembling the floor on your prepared surface. (Crushed gravel pad, deck or concrete slab): Assemble the 4 mitred pieces for the outer frame of the floor, (stringers on the sides, and headers with marks for positioning the 2x4 stringers in the next step, in the front and back positions), with the recesses on the inner top edge, as shown. Screw them together with the supplied 3 wood screws, 2 into each corner. Attached the five 2x4 stringers at the indicated positions on the headers. Fasten with two 3 screws at each joint. Position the tongue-and-groove floor boards across the stringers, beginning with one of the two front/back boards, with one straight-cut edge (no tongue or groove) positioned into the recess in the front or back header. Screw the board down into the stringers using one 2 wood screw per joint. Continue installing the floor boards, tapping them firmly together with a rubber mallet, and fastening them with one 2 wood screw per joint.

3 Tongue-and-groove floor boards fit into rabbeted edges of the floor frame. Screw them down with supplied 2 wood screws, one per board along the stringers and headers. Walls: Start building the walls by laying down the bottom front and back boards first. They are unique as they are just flat on the bottom and have no bottom tongue. Use the included pounding block to tamp each board down tightly along its full length into the groove on top of the previous layer with a small (at least 3lb.) sledge hammer, as shown. Use the supplied 4 deck screws for the corner joints; 2 screws per joint, oriented diagonally, as shown, alternating orientation with each layer to avoid hitting the screws from the previous layer. Alternate placing the wall boards on top of the previous layers, front and back, then the sides, then front and back again, and so on, tamping and screwing the joints down as before.

4 The cut-out for the door-way will be made of short boards on one side and longer boards on the other side unless the door is in the exact centre of the wall. Pay attention to which side the door should be on when assembling. Note that the very top set of side wall boards will have angled cuts on the outside top ends to fit the slope of the roof. (bottom picture) For saunas with wood-burning heaters, there will be similar cut-out on the back or side wall with matched sets of boards as with the door way. Door pieces and heater pieces will be marked accordingly. Fasten each board-end at the doorway, window, or heater opening with supplied 4 deck screws as shown (above, right.) The thirteenth row of side wall boards are the long ones that extend out on the front to form the overhanging roof. The next layer will be the ones with the angled tops to match the roof boards. Pay attention to the direction of the slope when placing them.

5 Roof: After the walls are completed with the angled boards on each side, place the two gable assemblies at the top of the front and back walls. The gables will be complete assemblies and the top roof beam will inserted into the slot at the top of the gables. Fasten with supplied 4 deck screws through pre-drilled holes on the corners. Next, place the front-side facia trim assembly (front facia trim boards assembled with a pair of tongueand-groove sheathing roof boards, shown) on top of the extended wall boards and top roof beam, as shown. Fasten the Fascia assembly to the top beam through the 1x6 sheathing board, with a 2 wood screw, into the bevelled top side of the beam, as shown. Also fasten into the angled top wall boards on both sides using 2 wood screws through the sheathing board. Fit the roof sheathing boards, as shown, fastening to the top beam and side walls. Note that the top ends of these sheathing boards are mitred to fit to each other at the peak of the roof. Use a rubber mallet to make sure the tongue-andgroove edges of the sheathing boards are tight together before fastening with the 2 wood screws.

6 Fasten the sheathing boards that are positioned over the tops of the gables into the gables in two or three places too, as well as the tops of the walls and the top beam. Fasten the final pair of sheathing boards to the back end of the roof. These are the pre-cut boards with flat edges, instead of tongue-and-groove edges. Fasten the back side facia trim boards to the ends of the sheathing. Start placing the shingle panels at the eaves and overlapping each layer as your proceed towards the peak. Notice that the lower edge of the plywood backing is flush with the ends of the sheathing boards. If you have individual shingles, see the note at the end of the assembly instructions.

7 After placing the final row of shingle strips on both sides of the roof, place the pre-cut pieces of black waterproof paper over the peak, overlapping each piece as much as possible, and then cover them with the peak trim boards. Trim off excess paper. Install the rear-side gable trim boards. Install the facia boards. Benches: For standard benches (from wall to wall), attach the mid bench supports, as shown, at the middle of each bench position. The mid-bench support shown is for two-tier benches. Attach to floor and wall with supplied 2 screws into pre-drilled holes. The bench supports for the ends of the benches screw directly into the walls at the same height as the mid-bench supports. Attach to the wall first, then the benches fit on top and get screwed down from the top in two places with 2 screws..

8 Position the door front into the door opening. Pay attention to direction. Secure the door front assembly to the door opening using supplied 2½ screws through pre-drilled holes. Install the inside-door trim pieces on both sides of the door opening from inside the sauna chambre into the front trim with 2½ screws into pre-drilled holes.

9 Fasten the robe peg board beside the door using four 2 screws into predrilled holes. If you have individual Cedar Shingles instead of Shingle Strips: Install the 3 -wide Ice and Water Dam shield, starting at the eaves, and overlapping each row, finishing with a piece over the peak. Before you begin, you might want to set aside the narrowest of pieces for the last step, finishing off the peak. (see photo) Lay down one row of cedar shingles side by side starting with the lower left corner, overhanging about a half an inch on the side and lower edge of the roof. The shingles might be different widths, so select a combination of pieces that will work out to the desired width to avoid cutting. Trial-fit a row at a time, then use a 1¼ roofing staple or nail to fasten each of them down. Lay down a second row of shakes directly on top of the first row, with each covering the crack between the ones under it by a minimum of one inch. If the overlap is less than an inch, select a wider piece. The next row of shakes is shifted up 8 towards the peak of the roof, with each shake overlaping the crack between the ones under it by a minimum of one inch. You might want to use a straight edge or snap line to keep the rows straight and parallel with the roof eave and peak. For the peak, use pieces about 4 wide, or whatever width gives you close to the same 8 of the previous row protruding from under. You can rip them to the width you need if you have a suitable saw, and lay them sideways as shown. Optionally, you can use a bead of silicone calulking under the top edge at the peak. Trim the final piece if there is an overhang.

10 Heater Electric Heater: This option is included in the manufacturer s box and ready for a local certified electrician to install for you. Installation instructions are included in the box. The Sauna Craft heaters hang on the wall on two stainless steel brackets which are held in place by wood screws driven directly into the wall. The Tylӧ heaters hang by four mounting brackets which hook onto the heads of four lag screws driven directly into the wall. In either case it is best to install the heater as low as possible to allow as much room over head as possible to allow for a rising air column which in turn aids air circulation for even heat distribution in the chambre. Wood Burning Heater. With the LeisureCraft wood-burning heater option there is a hole in the back or side wall in which the heater is placed. It is lifted into position in its opening by two (strong) people. Be careful, the heater weighs almost 350 lbs! It will stay in place by gravity. Go inside the sauna chambre and ensure that the heater is evenly spaced side-to-side in the opening. Secure the heater from the outside with the supplied 16 lag screws. Assemble the chimney pieces and secure with the 4 bolts and nuts (supplied). With either option it is necessary to burn-off any residual coatings from manufacturing prior to use, by letting the heater run hot for an hour with the sauna door open. For further details see the Maintaining Your Sauna section at the end. Congratulations, you have successfully assembled your LeisureCraft Nordic Sauna! WARRANTY Our Products are warranted to be free of defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and service, for a period of three years (3 Years) from date of purchase. With the warranty you will get a NO HASSLE next business day (depending on shipping service) replacement for all requested parts. Product must be cared for properly, this warranty does not cover misuse or negligence and the manufacturer is not liable for any injury or damage caused by the product. The warranty is also not valid if repairs are attempted by anyone not authorized to do so. Please contact your Dundalk LeisureCraft Dealer for more warranty Information.

11 HOW TO TAKE A SAUNA 1. Pre-heat your sauna to the desired temperature (usually between C) 2. While it s warming up, take a nice hot shower. 3. Enter the pre-heated sauna (80-95 degrees), relax and allow your body to perspire in the soft dry heat. Do not throw water on the rocks during the first part of the session. 4. Cool off with a cold shower. 5. Re-enter the sauna and sprinkle water on the rocks, this will increase humidity to about 30% to assist in perspiration. About one cup of water every five minutes should be enough. Too much water will just cool off the rocks and you ll get less steam. 6. Take a cold shower. (or lake/pool) Repeat this sauna/cold shower process as often as desired. 7. It is important to drink during your sauna session and even a light snack. 8. Like bathing in a hot tub, excessive exposure can be harmful to a person s health. People with poor health should consult their physicians before using the sauna. THESE ARE GUIDELINES ONLY. ENJOY YOUR SAUNA WHATEVER WAY YOU DESIRE. CHILDREN MUST BE SUPERVISED BY ADULTS. MAINTAINING YOUR SAUNA AFTER INSTALLATION 1. It is a good idea to wash off the sauna rocks before using them. They will be coated with a thick layer of rock dust from processing and handling. If you don t wash it off it will end up making a mess when it gets dripped and splashed on your sauna floor and heater. It will be difficult to get out of the wood grain. 2. When your sauna is set up and working you should break-in the sauna before using it for the first time. Turn it on its highest setting and keep it like that for about 1 hour. This is recommended by the heater manufacturer to burn off any oils and impurities from manufacturing, and it also cures the woodwork. After about ¾ hour, slowly pour about one litre of cold water on the rocks. It should all turn to steam and not come out of the bottom of the heater. If it does, you re pouring too fast. 3. It is considered good sauna etiquette that guests take a shower with soap and sit on a double-layer of terrycloth towels to prevent perspiration from getting onto the benches and walls where the oils will accumulate over time. 4. After each use, leave the door fully open for the wood to dry out. Duck boards can be lifted up to air out if necessary. 5. Under normal conditions, a slight wash of the floor and benches several times a year will maintain its cleanliness. The cedar benches can be washed with a mild solution of liquid cleaner and water to remove any buildup and perspiration stains from the wood. Never use ammonia or harsh cleaners as they can turn the wood gray. 6. Good care should be taken of the wooden bucket and ladle. They should be stored upside down to promote drying The igneous rocks may need to be replaced in 6 to 10 years, depending on severity and frequency of use. In many cases, the rocks could last up to 15 years. 9. Do NOT use commercial wood sealers from local lumberyards or hardware stores. These are not designed to withstand the sauna temperatures or humidity! 10. Contact your local dealer or Dundalk LeisureCraft Inc. directly if you have further questions or concerns regarding your product. Manufacturer Dundalk LeisureCraft Inc Phone: (888) th Line, RR#3 Dundalk, Ontario Canada N0C 1B0