2/15/2010. Construction Manual. January, 2010 Edition. Habitat for Humanity of Metro Louisville

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1 Construction Manual January, 2010 Edition Habitat for Humanity of Metro Louisville

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3 Habitat for Humanity of Metro Louisville Construction Manual January, 2010 Edition Table of Contents for House Leader Tasks For 1-Story, Crawl Space or Concrete Slab Houses, with focus on activities led by House Leaders Construction Manual Table of Contents for House Leader Tasks Introduction 1. Study the House Plans for plate layout & prebuild 2. Order Prebuild Lumber 3. Layout Base/Top Plates 4. Pre-drill Plates for Concrete Slab Construction 5. Make prebuild components 6. Order lumber and schedule wall building 7. Build Walls 8. Strike the Deck 9. Final Site Prep for the Raise the Roof (RTR) 10. Move Walls to the build site 11. Install the Habitat/Sponsor sign at the site 12. Gather Tools, Equipment, and Supplies for the RTR 13. RTR (Each Day) Intro & Safety Briefing, and Site Prep 14. Raise the Exterior Walls 15. Nail Adjacent Walls together 16. Square the Walls 17. Plumb and Brace the Walls 18. Set Interior Walls 19. Align the Walls 20. Install Porch Beams 21. Install Cap Plate (double top plate) 22. Sheath Walls with OSB 1 st Row 23. Mark Stud Locations on subfloor 24. Caulk Framing 25. Install Blocking for Entry Hand Rails (if required) 26. A note about Roof Pitch 27. Build Rakes 28. Layout for Trusses 29. Before Raising the First Truss 30. Install Trusses 31. Install Strongbacks 32. Install Drywall Blocking 33. Finish Sheathing Walls & Gable Ends 34. Final Quality Control Check of wall sheathing nailing 35. Cut out Windows and Exterior Doors 36. Install 2" Strips of OSB for Windows 37. Install Blueboard for walls

4 38. Install Rakes 39. Install Blueboard for gable ends 40. Tape Blueboard 41. Install Gutter Boards 42. Sheath the Roof with OSB 43. Quality Control Check of roof sheathing nailing 44. Trim Roof Sheathing 45. Install Drip Edge on gutter boards (lower edges of roof) 46. Install Roof Underlayment (tar paper &/or Weather Guard ) 47. Install Drip Edge on gable ends 48. Install Hurricane Straps on trusses (Simpson strong ties) 49. Install Truss Floaters 50. Install Diagonal Bracing for trusses 51. Install OSB to secure entryways 52. Cut out Door Base Plates 53. Frame the Attic Access Rough Opening 54. Build and Install Birdboxes 55. Sheath Porch Beams 56. Install Blueboard on Porch Beams 57. Install Flashing on window sills 58. Install Windows 59. Install Flashing around windows 60. Install Exterior Doors 61. Install Insulation & Drywall behind tub 62. Install Drywall and Luan in mechanical room 63. Install Kitchen Cabinet Blocking 64. Install Bathroom Blocking 65. Install Blocking for Closet Shelves 66. Install Blocking for Baseboards 67. Install Blocking for Light Switches 68. Install Roof Flashing, Ridge Vent, and Shingles 69. Install Starter Strip for Vinyl Siding 70. Install Drip Cap for the Rear Entry Door 71. Install J Channel around doors 72. Install J Channel for front windows and electrical service panel 73. Install F Channel under eaves for soffit 74. Install Soffit under eaves (horizontal sections) 75. Install Outside Corner Posts 76. Install Inside Corner Posts 77. Install Universal under F Channel along eaves 78. Install Soffit (gable ends) 79. Install J under Soffit and around Bird Boxes on gable ends 80. Install P Channel (Finish Trim) under windows 81. Install Special Trim Elements vents, shutters, crossheads, etc. 82. Install Soffit for porch ceiling 83. Install Siding 84. Install Sunburst (if required) 85. Install Special Siding (scallops, shingles) if required 86. Bend White Metal - for eaves & gable ends

5 87. Bend White Metal for Birdboxes 88. Install Fascia (white metal on gutter board, bird boxes, and gable ends) 89. Build and Install the Crawl Space Door 90. Install White Metal on porch beams 91. Make, Paint, and Install the House Address Plaque(s) 92. Measure for Gutters 93. Install Gutters and Downspouts 94. Seal the Return Air Rough Opening 95. Foam/air seal Windows and Exterior Doors 96. Foam Penetrations 97. Rough-ins and Inspections 98. Install Baffles at eaves 99. Insulate Walls 100. Before Hanging Drywall 101. Hang Drywall 102. Float and Tape Drywall 103. Cleanup - after Drywall Finish, before Painting 104. General Painting Tips 105. What paint goes where? 106. Paint Walls and Ceilings 107. Install Underlayment for sheet vinyl flooring 108. Trim Carpentry a Few Definitions 109. Install Interior Doors 110. Install Mechanical &/or Laundry Bifold Doors 111. Prime and Paint - before installation 112. Install Window Stool and Wrap 113. Install Window Casing - Top, Sides, Apron 114. Make, Paint, & Insulate the Attic Access Panel 115. Install Baseboard 116. Install Vinyl &/or Laminate Flooring 117. Install Closet Shelf Supports 118. Caulk/spackle Trim - doors, windows, baseboard, etc Electrical Trim Out 120. Electrical Inspection/ Permanent Power hook up 121. Remove Temporary Electrical Pole 122. Insulate Light Switches and Receptacles (recommended) 123. Install Bathroom Vanity 124. Install Bath Hardware 125. Install Grab Bars (if required) 126. Install Kitchen Cabinets and Countertops 127. Install the Range Backsplash 128. Install the Range Hood 129. Caulk Kitchen Countertop & Paint Caulk 130. Install Closet Shelves - bedroom, coat, linen, pantry 131. Install Shower Curtain Rod 132. Install Plastic Shoe Mold at tub and entry doors 133. Install Shoe Mold in areas with vinyl or laminate 134. Caulk/fill Shoe Mold 135. Prime all Bare Wood Trim

6 136. Paint Trim 137. Paint Interior Doors 138. Paint Exterior Doors 139. Install Interior Door Knobs 140. Install Door Stops 141. Install the Peep Hole in the front door 142. Install Mini-Blinds 143. Install Closet Rods 144. Install Mailbox 145. Plumbing Trim out/ Plumbing Inspection 146. HVAC Trim out 147. Install Hand Rail for Entry Stairs 148. Form/pour Pad for shed 149. Form/pour Sidewalks, Air Conditioner Pad (& Patio if needed) 150. Remove Concrete Forms 151. Install Porch Rails and Posts 152. Build the Shed 153. Paint the Shed 154. Blown Insulation 155. Carpet Installation 156. Landscaping 157. Install Fence (if required) 158. Clean House & Prep for Dedication 159. Install Owner Locks on back door and shed door 160. Walk Through with homeowner; generate final punch list 161. Dedication!! 162. Final Inspections 163. Install Appliances 164. Remove "green" Lock on front door & install owners lock 165. Final Site Clean-up 166. Closing/Sign home warranty/keys to owner/partner Family moves into their new home! Appendix A Design Guidelines Appendix B Framing Details Appendix C Sample Cut List for Walls Appendix D RTR Load List Appendix E Sample RTR Intro/Safety Briefing Appendix F Blocking and Hardware Installation Appendix G Siding Information Appendix H Porch Rail/Post Information Appendix I Shed Construction Appendix J Roofing Shingles Workshop Appendix K - Safety Policy

7 Introduction This Construction Manual is intended to guide staff, house leaders, crew leaders, and volunteers through the construction process. The manual focuses on activities led by House Leaders for 1-story homes constructed either over a crawl space or on a concrete slab. (Future versions of the manual will include Core Team activities and 2 story homes.) A lot of work goes into a Habitat house before the first wall can be built. A few examples are: fund raising, site selection, partner family selection, and obtaining sponsorship. The houses must also be designed, building permits obtained, preliminary site preparation completed (grading the lot, utilities, etc.), and the foundation and deck constructed. Louisville Habitat has a Design Catalog with several standard house plans that a Partner Family may choose. Three of these plans are shown above. Many design concepts are incorporated into these plans. Some of these design concepts are: Simple, affordable, decent housing Suitability for the typical lots available Zoning or neighborhood requirements Habitat International guidelines Universal Design guidelines Green Building techniques Energy Star requirements By meeting Habitat International, Universal Design, Green Building, and Energy Star guidelines Habitat may qualify for various grant monies. See Appendix A for some of these Design Guidelines. NOTE: Construction documents and Staff instructions will always override this manual!

8 1. Study the House Plans for plate layout & prebuild Review the plans, and if possible go to the house site and measure the deck as-built. If there are inconsistencies between as-built and the drawings the layout may need to be adjusted. Decide where to break long walls. Breaks should not occur at windows or doors and the finished walls should be manageable to handle. In order to use shared studs the breaks between walls should be at the center of a 2 stud. Determine wall lengths for 2x4 and 2x6 top and bottom plates. *For concrete slab construction: It s especially important to take into account the as built for a house which is constructed on a concrete slab; the rough plumbing will already be located in the concrete slab. Walls may need to be adjusted so that the plumbing is located within wall cavities. 2. Order Prebuild Lumber The Construction Supervisor will order lumber for plates, headers, porch beams, etc. Request a couple of extras of the longest lengths. *For Concrete Slab Construction: If the house will be built on a concrete slab all of the bottom plates, exterior and interior, will need to be pressure treated lumber. Walls that are planned to be built using precuts will also need to have a pressure treated bottom plate. Parts staged at the Construction Center, ready for wall building.

9 3. Layout Base/Top Plates The framing practices used by Louisville Habitat have been adopted after careful study of good building practices, lumber costs, and insulation principles. There are appropriate exceptions, but in general, these practices favor: Use of shared studs; i.e., where two sections of wall join there s ½ a stud on one plate and ½ a stud on the adjoining plate NOT a full stud on each plate Use of California corners at wall intersections for exterior walls, this allows the full cavity to be properly insulated No King/Jack combos for doors or windows windows and doors installed in load bearing walls use Jacks which are 2x6 Precuts notched to fit a 2x10 header Doors or windows in non-load bearing walls and interior doors can be framed with simple 2x4 or 2x6 horizontal headers (laid flat) and cripples. The jacks are regular precuts (studs). A few guidelines: Build walls using 92 5/8 pre-cuts ; 2x6 s for exterior walls and 2x4 s for interior walls. The plumbing wall(s) is also typically 2x6 refer to the plans Look for straight plates. The reality, though, is that a lot of the lumber won t be straight. Reject the worst (it can be cut up for parts). For a pair of plates, use the straightest plate as the top plate it s easier to straighten the bottom plate as it s nailed to the deck than it is to straighten the top plate. Exterior and interior walls are typically laid out with studs 24 on center. Lay out exterior walls so that the long edges of 4x8 sheets of OSB sheathing will land on studs generally, 2 sheets of OSB must share a stud, with the seam in the center of the stud. Start at one end of a run of walls and work down the wall(s), laying out the studs and cripples. The 1 st sheet of OSB completely covers the OSB on the adjacent corner as well as the 1st stud, so allow for this extra ½ + ¾, for a butt wall allow for the 5 ½ of the adjacent thru wall. Lay out doors or windows that require precise placement (per the plan) first. Fill in remaining optional placement windows (or doors). Allow space for casing at least 3 ½ on each side of a window or door (measured from the rough opening). Appendix B shows Framing Details for several commonly used doors and windows, details of ladders for wall intersections, porch beam pockets, etc. Refer to the plan documents for specifics on doors and windows. Plumbing walls require special attention; consider installation of the tub/shower, spacing required for the toilet drain, etc. Show ladders for wall intersections on the plates, using care to place the ladder markings on the appropriate side of the plates so that the ladders will be installed on the correct side of the wall

10 2/27/2010 Label each wall with the following information: 1. Wall ID - Number (or letter) the walls on both the wall and on the drawing. Be sure to show exactly where walls start and end on the drawing (for example, thru wall vs. butt wall). 2. Direction - Mark top & bottom plates with an arrow showing wall direction (standardized wall layouts from Sketchup will be labeled Front/Back or Right/Left). For layout purposes, Front is defined as the front of the house, Back is the rear, Right is the right side of the house when standing in the street facing the front of the house, and Left is the left side of the house when standing in the street facing the front of the house. The actual compass direction for the wall, north, south, east, or west may also be used. 3. Mark the top plate as TOP and the bottom plate as BOTTOM. 4. Mark both top and bottom plates with an arrow pointing up or to the outside. (This is to insure that solid headers get installed on the outside of the wall, and that ladders for wall intersections get installed on the correct side of each wall, etc.) For exterior walls this arrow will point to the outside of the house, and when the walls are built in the warehouse lay the plates on the table with this arrow pointing towards the roof. For interior walls there s no inside/outside, but the plates should still be placed on the table with this arrow pointing to the roof. Mark the bottom plate of each doorway or passage way with DO NOT NAIL. The bottom plate will be cut out after the roof trusses and first two rows of sheathing have been installed. It s a LOT easier to remove plates in the doorways if they re not nailed or caulked to the deck! It may be useful to have a list of each wall s length to use when striking the deck

11 4. Pre-drill Plates for Concrete Slab Construction *For concrete slab construction only: If the house is built on a concrete slab there are anchor bolts set into the concrete so that the exterior walls can be bolted down securely. The wall bottom plates must be drilled for these bolts, and it s likely that at least some of the bolts will interfere with the studs. If possible, take the marked bottom plates for exterior walls to the site and pre-drill for the anchor bolts, noting any changes that must be made in the wall layout. *For concrete slab construction there is no band or rim board; the OSB wall sheathing will line up with the edge of the concrete slab. This means that ½ must be allowed for OSB when the exterior walls are laid out on the concrete slab. Measure in 6 (for 2x6 walls) from the edge of the concrete slab and snap chalk lines where the exterior walls will be installed. Lay the plate alongside the bolts and mark where the anchor bolts will be. Drill a 1 hole for each bolt, and slip the plate over the bolts, making sure that the plate can be aligned with the chalk line. Adjust as needed if there is interference between studs or cripples and the anchor bolts. 5. Make prebuild components Parts needed to build walls, such as notched studs, headers, cripples, and ladders can be made prior to wall building. Refer to Appendix B, Framing Details or Appendix C, Sample Cut List for Walls. 1. Headers for exterior walls are made from 2x10 stock, which should be ripped to 9 wide (for consistency), and then cut to length. Note that some windows (due to height restrictions) require 2x4 headers - refer to the plan documents. 2. Jacks for windows & exterior doors are 2x6 precuts, notched to fit the headers. 3. Porch T-jacks are 2x6 precuts, notched on both sides 1 ½ x size of beam (7 1/2 for a 2x8 beam) 4. Studs may be notched for kitchen cabinet blocking, grab bar blocking, double side-by-side ladders, etc. 6. Order lumber and schedule wall building The Construction Supervisor will order the materials for wall building 2x6 and 2x4 precuts, 16d nails, etc.

12 7. Build Walls Walls should be square. Studs, cripples, etc. should be installed flush with plates; shim as needed for alignment. Plan the order in which walls are built so that when the walls are stacked at the build site the first wall to be installed is positioned on top of the stack. Check each stud to see if it s good enough to use: o Hold a stud with the wide side parallel to the ground Look down the length of the stud and identify whether the stud is bowed to left or right Discard any stud which is bowed more than 3/8 o Rotate the stud so the narrow edge is parallel to the ground Discard a stud which is bowed more than ¾ to either side If a stud is bowed, put the bow to the outside. It s best to have all the bows in the same direction. Transfer the center line of each stud or wall component to the back of the plate as a guideline for nailing. Nail through the top and bottom plates into the studs and other wall components. Use (3) 16d nails into each 2x6 and (2) 16d nails into each 2x4 (top & bottom). See the Framing Details in Appendix B for doors, windows, porch beams, etc. Double check window and door rough openings. It s usually easiest to install headers and ladders before any studs Carpenter s Tip: When nailing close to the end of a plate the wood tends to split. Using a nail with a dull point makes it less likely that the plate will split. So, before nailing (within an inch of the end of a plate) turn the nail over and dull the nail by hitting the point with a hammer. 8. Strike the Deck Needed: Plans showing the wall layout, wall dimensions, long tape measure(s), squares, markers, chalk lines, & calculator. (A broom & squeegee may also be handy the deck usually has to be cleared.) Mark the wall layout on the deck using chalk lines and markers. These chalk lines will be used during the Raise the Roof to position the walls. Adjust walls as needed &/or plan for OSB or luan shims based on the actual deck or concrete slab measurements. To protect the layout lines from the elements the intersections can be outlined with permanent marker, or spray the chalk lines with a fixative like clear lacquer. *For concrete slab construction there is no band or rim board. The OSB wall sheathing will line up with the edge of the concrete slab. This means that the chalk line for exterior walls will be inset 6 from the edge of the concrete slab, allowing 5 ½ for the bottom plate and ½ for OSB.

13 9. Final Site Prep for the Raise the Roof (RTR) Coordinate with the Construction Supervisor to clear the site of major debris, backfill with dirt around the foundation of the house so that the footing is good and ladders can be used safely, and level the site. Make arrangements for electricity - will there be a temporary electrical pole on site or is a generator needed? Move the storage pod to the site (if planned). 10. Move Walls to the build site If possible, pre-position the stacks of walls on the deck. However, in some cases it may be necessary to stack the walls off the deck. Walls which are stacked on the deck should be positioned so that there is no interference with the layout lines. Try to stack the interior walls in a large open space (like the living room), or only covering areas where walls will be installed last. Lay out 2x4 s for each stack of walls to set on so that the stack of walls can be chained and locked. 11. Install the Habitat/Sponsor sign at the site 12. Gather Tools, Equipment, and Supplies for the RTR Coordinate delivery of equipment and supplies with the Construction Supervisor. Many of the materials used during the RTR will be delivered directly to the job site (the Construction Supervisor will provide this information), but other tools, equipment, and supplies should be brought from the Construction Center. The required supplies can be loaded into a box truck or pre-stocked into an on-site POD. See Appendix D for a sample list of typical tools, equipment, and supplies needed for a RTR. 13. RTR (Each Day) Intro & Safety Briefing, and Site Prep Introductions: House Leader(s), Sponsors, Partner family Safety Ladders, Hard Hats, Proper footwear, power tools, etc. See Appendix E for outline Name tags for everyone Sign in on OSHA sheet and collect signed waivers from all volunteers Distribute hand tools for volunteers Unload materials from the truck &/or pod Set up saws and work areas Spread straw on build site if required for mud

14 14. Raise the Exterior Walls 1. Sweep the deck clean where the walls will be installed 2. Select the first wall and set it approximately in place. Make sure the wall is oriented correctly, both inside/outside and direction (North/South or East/West) 3. Caulk between the subfloor and the bottom wall plate. Use silicone caulk, and apply a generous bead before each wall is lifted into place. But don t caulk in doorways or passageways. The caulk serves as a barrier to air infiltration and insects. *For concrete slab construction: Install sill seal, an expanded foam product, between the concrete slab and the bottom plate. Staple the sill seal to the bottom of each wall or simply roll out the sill seal and set the wall on top. The sill seal will help to isolate the wall from the concrete and act as a gasket seal to keep out air leaks and insects. 4. Raise each wall in turn; many hands may be needed to lift and hold the wall until it s anchored to the subfloor and braced. 5. Caution: If walls are stacked off the deck leave the last few exterior walls out until the interior walls have been moved into place. 6. Walls MUST be aligned with the chalk lines! If the wall is bowed start nailing at one end of the wall and force the wall into place along the chalk line as each stud bay is nailed. 7. Each wall must be lined up properly before it s nailed, so don t nail until the house leader (or designee) gives the OK. Once approved, nail the wall to the subfloor with (3) 16d nails in each stud bay, through the deck and into the bandboard. Nail approx. ¾ in from the outside edge of the wall so that the nails will go into the solid bandboard below. Also nail a 16d nail into each underlying floor joist near the inside edge of the bottom plate. *For concrete slab construction: Line up exterior plates properly and bolt down using the anchor bolts, washers, and nuts. Then secure each stud bay with concrete fasteners such as 22 caliber Ramset nails, or concrete screws, like Tap-Cons. Two concrete fasteners are required in each stud bay. Secure interior plates to the concrete slab with two concrete fasteners in each stud bay.

15 15. Nail Adjacent Walls together Before nailing adjacent walls together make sure that all of the studs and framing components in the walls are seated. Sometimes as walls are moved to the construction site the studs separate from the top or bottom plates. A tap with a sledge hammer on the top plate above each stud is all it takes to tighten up the walls. Use 16d nails to connect walls together. Make sure that both walls are properly aligned before nailing. Note there won t normally be two full studs (Butt Wall in diagram above) adjacent walls should usually be connected with a shared stud.

16 16. Square the Walls All studs stand vertically straight from the base plate if the wall is square. Use a level (4 or longer) in multiple places on the corner wall to verify whether the studs are vertical; adjust as needed. Once the wall is square nail diagonal bracing across the face of several studs to keep the wall square. Each brace should be nailed into the top and bottom plates. 17. Plumb and Brace the Walls Plumb walls stand vertically straight from the deck. Braces are used to secure the walls upright and plumb. 1. Nail a 2x4 brace high on the wall, but do not allow the brace to extend beyond the wall to the outside or above the wall. 2. Nail a scrap of 2x4 or 2x6 into a floor joist, perpendicular to the wall at the bottom of the brace. 3. Manually move the wall in or out as needed to keep plumb & square (check with a 4 or longer level). 4. When plumb & square, nail the brace to the scrap block. Turnbuckles (attached to a 2x4) can be used as easily adjustable braces. Nail the 2x4 to the wall and the foot of the turnbuckle to a floor joist. Rotate the turnbuckle to move the wall in or out as needed. Note: It is also possible to use diagonal bracing to interior walls or brace to interior walls Caution - keep all braces in place until at least the 1 st two rows of roof sheathing are installed.

17 18. Set Interior Walls Set interior walls in place and nail to the floor and with a minimum of nails to adjacent walls, then proceed to line and straighten the exterior walls (see the next task). Once the exterior walls are set the interior walls can be plumbed and nailed securely. Install Interior Walls: Oriented correctly On the marked chalk lines Plumb and square before nailing to adjacent walls Use d nails in each stud bay, nailing on a slight angle into the subfloor for increased holding power. In addition, try to nail into the underlying floor joists wherever possible. Brace walls as needed. Once all of the interior walls have been set in place any remaining exterior walls can be installed. 19. Align the Walls Serpentine, or wavy, walls are not desirable! Align the exterior walls before the interior walls are secured and before the 2 nd cap plate is installed so that the exterior walls can be adjusted as needed. Nail a 2x4 block to each end of the wall and stretch a line tightly across the face of both blocks the length of the wall. Make sure the string runs flat across the face of the 2x4 s, and that the string isn t caught on any obstructions. The distance between the string and the top plate will be used to gauge and adjust walls plumb. Get a scrap of 2x4 and slide it along the cap plate, between the string and the cap plate, gauging the distance between wall and string. Adjust the braces as needed. Turnbuckles braces make adjusting walls in or out as needed very easy. If turnbuckles aren t available there are some techniques which can be used to pull a wall in or out if it can t be moved manually: To push a wall out a long 2 x 4 is nailed to a scrap of wood nailed to a floor joist. The 2 x 4 is placed at approximately a 45 degree angle and should be resting on a stud of the wall. Hit the end down with a hammer. As the 2 x 4 moves down the stud it will push the wall farther out. To pull a wall in, nail a 2 x 4 at a 45 degree angle between a cleat attached to a floor joist and a wall stud. The wide side of the 2x4 needs to be facing down. Another shorter 2 x 4 is placed between the cleat and the wall and should be stood vertically and the top should touch the underside of the longer one. Use a hammer to drive the top of the shorter one away from the wall. This will bow the longer 2 x 4, pulling the wall in.

18 20. Install Porch Beams 1. Temporarily raise a porch beam into place or, hold up a 2x4 to simulate the bottom of a porch beam. 2. Hold the beam or 2x4 level and measure from the bottom to the porch 3. Create a temporary porch post the measured length in the shape of a T using 2 studs 4. Raise the porch beam, install the temporary post, and shim the beam level as needed 5. Secure the beams into the porch T-jack or beam pocket at the house and to each other 6. Square the beams by measuring the diagonals, adjusting, and installing diagonal braces on the bottom side of the beams to keep the beams square 7. Secure the temporary posts to the beams make sure the posts are stable; they will likely be holding up the beams and the porch roof for an extended period of time. These temporary posts will need to be removed later when the permanent posts are installed. 8. Run the 1 st cap plate around the beam (the top of the porch beam will now be even with the top wall plates) 9. Ensure that there is solid blocking in the porch beams where permanent porch posts will be installed.

19 21. Install Cap Plate (double top plate) Cap plates must overlap all top plate joints by 2 On a long wall the cap plate will be interrupted at every wall intersection; it s usually better to install the cap plate on the intersecting walls first. Measure and cut to length for cap plate 2x4 for 2x4 walls & 2x6 for 2x6 walls Start nailing at one end of each cap plate and nail to the other end, keeping the cap plate aligned with the top plate of the wall. Nail cap plate every 2. Use (2) 16d nails through the top plate and into each underlying stud or cripple. If more than 2 walls meet at an intersection one of the top plates must be notched make sure that all intersecting walls are tied together by the cap plates. Cap plate must extend out over the porch beams. Notched cap plate at 3-way joint

20 22. Sheath Walls with OSB 1 st Row 1. Insert (2) 16d nails between the top block and the bandboard (*or between concrete slab and bottom plate) at each stud or cripple. The OSB sheathing will be installed resting on the nails. The nails hold the OSB slightly up from the blocks and show the location of each stud once the OSB is in place. These nails will also be used for installing blueboard. 2. Check with a team leader for each run of walls to make sure the 1 st piece of OSB is placed correctly. 3. Hang 4x8 sheets of OSB sheathing vertically. 4. OSB has a rough side and a smooth (or smoother) side; install with the rough side out. 5. The edge of the OSB should land on the middle of a stud so the next sheet can share the stud. If not, check with a team leader - either trim the OSB or install another stud alongside the original stud (a sister stud). (Trimming is usually preferable, especially if many sisters would be required.) 6. Apply a bead of caulk or construction adhesive on the back side of each piece of OSB sheathing in a continuous line app. 3 up from the bottom edge of the OSB. This bead will seal the OSB to the bandboard. 7. OSB is nailed to the studs with 8d nails; every 4 on the perimeter (top or bottom, and both sides of every sheet) & every 8 in the field (i.e., on the stud in the middle of the sheet). Also nail every 4 around window and door openings, and every 8 into the bottom plate. 8. It s often good to have one crew tack up sheets of OSB (maybe 4 or 5 nails to pin the OSB in place), and then a larger crew come along behind to fill in the rest of the nails. Be sure that the OSB is pulled up tight to the wall studs; i.e., don t tack the bottom and top with the middle bowed out away from the wall. 9. It may help to snap a chalk line on the OSB to show the middle of each stud must hit a stud. Have someone stand on a ladder on the inside of the house where they can see the studs, and snap a line down the OSB to where the nails are marking each stud at the bottom. 10. Do not install the 2 nd row of OSB until the trusses are up. On the gable ends the OSB should span up onto the truss, and on the sides the OSB will span up onto the raised heels of the trusses. 11. Quality Control periodically inspect the inside of the wall being sheathed there shouldn t be any visible nails! Any nails seen should be hammered back out; then go outside and replace the nails with nails positioned to penetrate the stud.

21 23. Mark Stud Locations on subfloor Use spray paint (usually orange) to mark the location of every stud or cripple on the deck. Sweep the area clean, then spray a line straight out from the stud approx. 6, directly in front of the stud. Be accurate these markings will be used later to find studs when installing drywall, baseboard, etc. 24. Caulk Framing Seal all gaps in the framing with silicone caulk bottom plates to the decking on the inside of all exterior walls, at each exterior corner, gaps in the top plates, gaps between studs, etc. 25. Install Blocking for Entry Hand Rails (if required) A handrail is required for any entry which has more than two steps. Blocking is required for a handrail mounted on the wall of the house. The handrail must be installed such that the top of the railing is 36 above the front edge (or nose ) of each step.

22 26. A note about Roof Pitch Just what is roof pitch? 5/12, 6/12, etc., but what does it mean? Pitch is the slope of the roof. Pitch, or Slope = Rise over Run. The slope of a roof, or roof pitch, is described as the rise, or how many inches up, over the run, or how many inches over. Hence, a 6/12 roof will rise (vertical) 6 for every 12 of run (horizontal). (or 3 up for 6 over or 12 up for 24 over, etc.). The corresponding angles involved are shown in the table. (The formula is angle = arc tan (rise/run)!) Roof Pitch Angle 2/ / / / /

23 27. Build Rakes Rakes, the ladder-like structures shown here attached to the OSB sheathed gableend truss, create an overhang for the roof. Roof sheathing (OSB), tar paper, and shingles will be installed on top of the trusses and rakes. Rakes are constructed from (2) long 2x6 s with 2x4 or 2x6 spacers on 24 centers. Rakes are typically 10 deep, so the spacers are 7 long. Since the rakes are installed on an angle to match the roof pitch both ends will need plumb (or vertical) cuts. The easiest way to build the rakes is in two halves, left and right, and to copy the shape of the gable-end truss top chord (before the truss is installed). Find a flat surface to build the rakes on and take care to line them up so that the side boards are parallel. Install the top spacer in line with the vertical cut where the two rakes meet at the peak, but make sure that the spacer does not extend above the tops of the long boards. Install the remaining spacers, 24 on center, in line with the tops of the side boards. The last spacer should be installed at least 4 in from the tails of the side boards so that the overall length of the rake can be adjusted later if needed. 28. Layout for Trusses 1. Verify that the correct number and type of trusses has been delivered. Verify that the length of the bottom chord of the trusses is correct (as compared to the plan documents). Check that the truss tails are the same length on both sides; if there is a significant difference in the tail length the trusses will need to be installed so that all of the tails of the same length are on one side of the house. 2. Refer to the Truss Plan &/or the instructions that came with the truss package for the correct truss layout where the first truss starts, distance between centers for trusses, etc. The typical truss spacing is 24 on center, which means there will be 22 ½ between each pair of trusses. If possible, the truss layout should match the wall stud layout when Energy trusses (or raised heel trusses) are used. The OSB wall sheathing will be nailed to the edge of the raised heel; aligning the trusses with wall studs avoids the need for blocking. 3. Mark the first truss on the cap plate 4. Pull a long tape from the first truss along the top of the cap plate. 5. Use a square to mark both sides where each truss will be installed, and draw an X to show where the truss goes. Be accurate a little bit off on each truss adds up to a lot off many trusses later! 6. Check to make sure that a truss isn t blocking a plumbing wall or the furnace duct adjust if needed.

24 29. Before Raising the First Truss Fasten a 2x6 on top of the cap plate as a nailer for the first and last truss. Install the 2x6 nailer flat, 1 ½ back from the exterior edge of the wall, and overhanging the wall towards the interior of the house. This nailer will be used to secure the first and last truss, and on the inside of the house the nailer will overhang the wall and provide blocking for the ceiling drywall. The House Leader will determine where additional nailers should be installed, typically on other exterior walls which will be parallel to the trusses, for example, the front edge of the porch beams. Consider cutting out the pieces of OSB sheathing for the gable end (or fully sheathing the first truss before it s raised). The sheathing for the gable end will extend down from the bottom of the truss, beyond the cap plate, either to the top of the OSB below or to the bottom of a beam. Mount a tall vertical brace on the front wall which can be used to secure the first truss. This brace will be secured to the OSB sheathed wall, so a piece of OSB will be required between the brace and the truss before securing the brace to the truss. Notch the ends of a couple of studs so that they can be used as truss pushers. Have several 1x3 s handy these will be used on top of the trusses as temporary bracing. There will likely be several different types and sizes of trusses trusses specifically for the gable ends, large trusses for the main roof, small trusses for the porch roof, etc. sort out what goes where, and designate someone to make sure that the right truss gets lifted up as needed. Assign a truss lifting crew these folks will be passing trusses up to the roof and using the notched pusher studs to help position the trusses

25 30. Install Trusses 1. Raise the first truss (typically a gable end truss with extra verticals for sheathing) and set it into place alongside the 2x6 nailer. Make sure the truss is correctly positioned and oriented. Double check that the truss overhang on each side of the house is the same. Or for raised heel trusses the heel can be aligned with one side of the house, then plan to shim the opposite side if needed. 2. Nail the first truss into the nailer and into the tall vertical brace. 3. Plumb and brace this first truss carefully, and install a diagonal brace to secure the truss in its plumb position. 4. Raise subsequent trusses, positioning each on the truss layout lines on the cap plates. Position each truss carefully so that all of the truss tails will line up. (A string line can be used to align the trusses. Measure the overhang of the first truss. Nail a string line to the front face of the first truss, and stretch that line down to the far end of the house. Install a 2x4 or 2x6 scrap extending out from the cap plates (but not interfering with any truss placement), and attach the string, pulled very taut, to the scrap at the correct distance out from the house. The string line provides a reference for lining up all the remaining trusses; each truss added should be positioned on the truss layout lines on the cap plates and ALMOST touching the string line - not pushing on the string line, not away from the string line, but right at the string line.) 5. Toenail (i.e. nail on an angle) both sides of the bottom chord of the truss to the cap plate with 16d nails, making sure that the truss stays on the layout lines. A 16d nail into the cap plate on one of the layout lines will help to hold the truss in place (prevent walking ) while toenailing. Toenail both ends of the truss with 3-4 nails, 2 nails on one side and 1-2 nails on the other side. 6. Install 1x3 temporary bracing above the truss run to secure the trusses and ensure that the truss spacing is correct. The photo above shows truss spacers being used to temporarily hold the trusses at the correct spacing until the 1x3 braces are nailed, but the distance between trusses can also be measured (should be 22 ½ ) before nailing. 7. Pull a tape across multiple trusses periodically to make sure that the trusses are correctly spaced. Notice the temporary bracing above the trusses. Correct truss spacing is Very Important to facilitate roof sheathing, and at the bottom chords to facilitate drywall. Care now will pay off later. If truss spacers will be used to actually position the truss the spacers need to be accurately constructed and installed squarely on the trusses before nailing the 1x3 braces. Note: complicated roofs require special attention consult the House Leader or Construction Supervisor.

26 31. Install Strongbacks Strongbacks help to strengthen the roof, stabilize the bottom chords of the trusses, limit movement of the trusses (which might cause drywall nail pops), and ensure that the trusses are properly spaced. Install strongbacks on the top of the bottom chord of the trusses, flat, and perpendicular to the trusses. Install strongbacks so that the truss is secured approx. every 10. For example, a 20 wide house would only need one set of strongbacks, but a 28 wide house should have two rows of strongbacks. Truss spacing is Important Truss spacers can be used, or measure the trusses to ensure they are 24 on center. Nail strongbacks into every truss, including the gable ends, with (2) 16d nails. Overlap strongbacks by 1 truss when each new strongback is started don t butt the strongbacks Notice that the strongbacks overlap in the photo above. 32. Install Drywall Blocking Drywall blocking must run along the top of all walls that are parallel to the trusses, including exterior walls. Nail blocking to the cap plate, making sure that the blocking overhangs both sides of the walls at least 1 ; for a 2x4 wall use 2x6 or use (2) 2x4 s. The drywall blocking should be at the same height as the bottom of the trusses if not, consult with the house leader. The drywall blocking may need to be shimmed up. Blocking does not have to be continuous; use up scraps, but do not leave gaps. Make sure that the blocking extends to corners, since the drywall is lifted into place the blocking can t be seen. Try to install drywall blocking before the roof is sheathed it s easier to nail.

27 33. Finish Sheathing Walls & Gable Ends Note the H clips in position two is overkill one H clip is required in each stud bay. This photo does not show the trusses the OSB ribbon will extend beyond the cap plate and up onto the raised heels of the trusses or up onto the face of the gable end truss. 1. For a 2 nd row of OSB use H clips between the top of the 1 st row and the bottom of the 2 nd row 1 H clip in each stud bay. (Note an alternative to H clips is nailing blocks.) 2. OSB should be installed with the rough surface out. Nail with 8d nails. The nailing pattern is every 4 around the perimeter and every 8 in the field. 3. The exterior face of the gable end trusses must be sheathed with OSB before the rakes can be installed. Use the pre-cut pieces of OSB, or measure and cut pieces to fit as needed. All pieces must land on wood; chords of truss, plates, or studs, so measure accordingly so that seams will share nicely. Sheathing definitely should not extend beyond the top of the truss, but may be slightly short. 4. OSB under the truss tails (the ribbon ) will likely need to be cut to fit and can be installed sideways, but seams must still share studs. 5. Quality Control periodically inspect the inside of the wall being sheathed nails shouldn t be visible! Any nails seen should be pounded back out; then go back outside and replace the pounded out nails with nails repositioned to penetrate the stud. These two diagrams show the 2 nd course of OSB; on the gable end and under the eaves. Note that the 2 nd course extends up onto the trusses for both the gable end and under the eaves.

28 34. Final Quality Control Check of wall sheathing nailing No matter how carefully the OSB has been nailed, some nails will probably be missed. Systematically inspect each sheet of OSB for the proper nails, filling in as needed. The check marks in the photo below (actually spray painted in orange paint) indicate that the OSB has been inspected and nailed correctly. 35. Cut out Windows and Exterior Doors From the inside of the house, drill a hole through the sheathing at all four corners of windows and doors. On the outside, use a chalk line to connect the holes, marking the outline of the desired opening. Then cut out the opening using a circular saw, router, or Sawzall: Use a circular saw from the outside of the house to cut out the opening; plunge cut to get started. Use a Sawzall with a long blade (from the inside of the house) to cut out the opening. Use a router from the outside of the house to cut out the opening (the chalk outline may not be needed for the router). Router in a clockwise direction for best results. CAUTION: There will be a dangerous blade or bit plunging through the wall, and lots of sawdust flying about. Have a partner stand inside the house to guard each window and door (for the Sawzall guard the exterior) as the opening is cut out; they can catch the cut outs and warn others of the active tool. Don t over-reach; use a ladder, and wear eye protection (both inside and outside). Also, check carefully to make sure that there are NO NAILS along the cut line nails are hard on blades or bits.

29 36. Install 2" Strips of OSB for Windows Install 2 strips of ½ OSB around the perimeter of each window opening to create a solid surface for securing the window. Strips may have been precut; if not rip 2 strips with a table saw. The OSB which has been cut out of the windows can be used to make the strips, and it s OK to piece these strips when using up scraps. (Maximize the use of scrap - if 2 strips were precut, consider using the scraps of OSB cut out from the windows to make strips for a future house.) 1. Cut (2) 2 strips to the height of the opening and nail them in place on both sides of the opening with 8d nails approx. every Cut (2) 2 strips to the width of the opening + 4 and nail them in place on the top and bottom of the opening using 8d nails approx. every Install Blueboard for walls Blueboard is used to help make the houses more energy efficient for the long term. Cover all sheathing with blueboard; then tape the seams. 1. Blueboard is donated, so try to be good advertising install the blueboard with logo out and right side up! 2. Blueboard seams should be offset from the OSB seams underneath start out with a 4x8 sheet cut in half long ways if required to offset seams. 3. Line up blueboard with the bottom edge of the OSB and nail it with 1 ½ cap nails. Not too many nails, this isn t structural use cap nails per full sheet. 4. Don t nail within a 2 border all around the sheet of blueboard we ll be taping the edges of the blueboard later, and nails at the tape tend to break the seal. It s usually easiest to piece the blueboard around door or window openings.

30 38. Install Rakes Install rakes after the gable end truss has been sheathed with OSB. Make sure that no OSB protrudes above the plane of the top of the trusses - trim if necessary. Nail the rakes into the top chord and vertical chords of the gable end truss. Make sure that the tails of the rake and the tail of the gable end truss are flush; trim if necessary. Prior to lifting up the rake, start d nails in each cavity of the rake, angled to make it easy for someone standing in the trusses to nail from the top. Tip: have 2-3 large C-clamps handy in the trusses; once the rake is positioned clamp it to the gable end truss so that the truss can be nailed. Position the rake, lining it up with the top chord of the gable-end truss. Make sure the rake is aligned at the peak, lined up at the tails, and not sagging (or high) relative to the top of the top chord of the gable end truss. Use a straight edge or speed square to check that the top of the rake is at the same level as the top of the gable end truss. Clamp the rake in place and nail the rake securely into the top chord of the gable end truss. If necessary, nail from one end to the other, working the rake up or down to align the rake correctly. 39. Install Blueboard for gable ends Install blueboard on the gable ends, seams staggered with the underlying OSB seams, and covering the OSB up to the bottom of the rakes. Same rules as blueboard for walls - Use 1 ½ cap nails, don t overdo the nails, don t nail within 2 of blueboard edges, and blueboard seams should be staggered (not coincide) with underlying OSB seams. 40. Tape Blueboard Tape the blueboard seams using construction tape, covering all seams. Also tape the blueboard to the 2 window strips, and tape each corner of the house (two pieces of tape may be required at the corners). The tape unifies the blueboard shell of the house, providing a water and air tight structure.

31 41. Install Gutter Boards Gutter boards are long 2x6 s nailed to the tails of the rakes and trusses. The gutter board forms the outside edge of the eave, and will be covered later by white metal and gutters. Before installing gutter boards make sure that the truss ends are aligned. If the trusses are out of alignment shim or trim as needed. 16 long 2x6 s are typically used for gutter boards. Gutter boards should be straight and true. Measure from the face of the rake back to the middle of the farthest stud the 2x6 can reach. Cut the 2x6 to this length. Install with the good face out and any bow (crown) (hopefully minimal) up. Do not align the top of the gutter board with the top edge of the truss! The gutter board is actually installed lower than the top edge of the trusses this is to allow for the OSB sheathing which will be extending down to the outside edge of the gutter board. Use a scrap of wood laid on the top chord to determine the required height for the gutter board. Install the gutter board by nailing through the gutter board into each truss or rake tail with (2) 16d nails. If the gutter board is bowed, start nailing from one end, and use a long 2x4 for leverage to force the gutter board up to the proper height, working down the length of the gutter board and nailing into each truss. Check the alignment at each truss tail, to keep the gutter board straight and at the correct height.

32 42. Sheath the Roof with OSB 1. Measure up along the top chord of the gable end trusses 48 ¼ from the outside face of the gutter board and make a mark. (Note: 48 ¼ assumes that the gutterboards have already been installed. If sheathing is started before the gutter boards are installed snap the chalk line at 48 ¼ minus 1 ½, or 46 ¾ up from the tails of the trusses.) Snap a chalk line between the marks; this line will be used to keep the first course of OSB straight and at the correct height. This line is very important - if it s too low, all the OSB will have to be trimmed, and if it s too high the drip edge won t cover. 2. OSB has a rough side and a smooth (or smoother) side - OSB must be installed with the rough side up. 3. Tip: Guide lines on the OSB make nailing easier. There may be factory guide lines; if not, snap lines as needed (or the ground crew can snap lines before handing up the OSB to the roof). 4. OSB is nailed with 8d nails, every 4 on the perimeter and every 8 in the field. Like wall sheathing, it may be more efficient to have one crew placing and tacking sheets of OSB down, then others can follow and fill in the remaining nails. It may be safer and easier to work from a ladder to nail into the lower half of the first course of OSB, especially on steeper roofs. 5. Joints between 2 sheets of OSB must share a truss, so for the 1 st piece measure from the outside of the rake to the center of a truss; have the OSB cut to this length less ¼. The ¼ is to ensure that the OSB won t overhang the outer edge of the rake. (It s also possible to install this first piece of OSB overhanging the end truss and trim it later. Just be careful not to step out onto the unsupported OSB.) 6. Start by positioning the sheet of OSB carefully, (the far truss may have to be shifted to line it up properly - use a tape measure to make sure that truss spacing is correct) then tack the top 2 corners. 7. Once the OSB is placed correctly proceed with the nailing. Make sure each intermediate truss is spaced correctly (24 on center) before nailing the OSB into it. Nails which go in too easily probably missed the truss and should be replaced. Once the first course or two of sheathing has been installed the temporary 1x3 braces will need to be removed. 8. Install safety toe boards after the first course of OSB has been installed. Use long 2x4 s (which can be recycled later as diagonal bracing or strongbacks) nailed into the trusses approx. 3 up from the lower edge of the roof, parallel to the lower edge of the roof. 9. Joints should be staggered between courses of OSB, so plan the 1 st sheet of each course to land on a different truss than the course below. 10. H-clips are used between courses of OSB; 1 H-clip in the center of each truss bay. See photos below. 11. The final course of OSB will have to be ripped to width. End the OSB approx. 1 down from the peak - the gap at the peak (1 on each side of the peak) will be covered later by the ridge vent when the roofers install the shingles. 12. It s usually best to have the ground crew cut the OSB to size, but occasionally a cut is made up on the roof. Beware - sawdust is deadly dangerous VERY SLIPPERY - on a pitched roof (actually, any loose material, dirt, etc., is dangerous). Sweep dirt or sawdust off immediately.

33 Now would be a good time to install safety toeboards! 43. Quality Control Check of roof sheathing nailing No matter how carefully the OSB has been nailed, some nails will probably be missed. Systematically inspect each sheet of OSB for the proper nails, filling in as needed. 44. Trim Roof Sheathing Use a circular saw to trim off any OSB that extends beyond the rakes or gutter boards. Even a tiny overhanging edge can make installing white metal later a real challenge. 45. Install Drip Edge on gutter boards (lower edges of roof) Drip edge helps keep water from wicking back under the shingles. On the long horizontal eaves (on top of the gutterboards) the drip edge goes on top of the OSB sheathing over the gutterboard and under the tar paper. (Drip edge for the gable ends will be installed later, on top of the tar paper.) Overlap the drip edge such that seams will be less noticeable from the primary viewpoint. (i.e., always overlap drip edge with the piece towards the front of the house on top.) Install with 1 ¼ roofing nails (or cap nails), approx. every 18. The drip edge should be snug to the face of the gutter board, but not squashed tight. Overlap sections of drip edge by approx. 2 ; tap gently with a hammer to get the 2 pieces of drip edge to nest neatly. Drip edge can be cut to length with tin snips.

34 46. Install Roof Underlayment (tar paper &/or Weather Guard ) Regardless of which underlayment is being installed, sweep the roof clear of sawdust, leaves, etc. before continuing. Roof underlayment, tar paper or Weather Guard, provides extra weatherproofing for the finished roof. Use 30 lb. tar paper on 4/12, 5/12, and 6/12 pitch roofs. Use self-adhering roll roofing ( Weather Guard ) on shallow roofs (2/12, 3/12), like some porch roofs. Also, if there is a valley in the roof, install Weather Guard in the valley first, before tar paper is installed on the rest of the roof. Installing 30 lb Roof Tar Paper (4/12, 5/12, & 6/12 Roofs) CAUTION: do not stand or put weight on tar paper until it is nailed securely - it is very slippery. Use 1 cap nails to secure the tar paper. Nail approx. every 12 on the bottom edge, and every 24 down the middle. Nail down the top edge with a minimum number of nails - the top edge will be nailed securely when the course above is nailed. 1. Installing tar paper is easiest with at least 2 people - one unrolling, one or more nailing. Trim the end of the tar paper square if needed. Position the tar paper roll flush with the gable end and tack the end with a cluster of nails near the center of the tar paper. Working toward the far end or valley, unroll of tar paper, square it with the drip edge, press out any wrinkles, and nail in place. (Line the tar paper up carefully - a little bit off at the start will be a lot off by the end of the roof, and trying to shift the roll back into line will create big wrinkles. If necessary, cut the tar paper, overlap the ends by 6, and continue.) Proceed at intervals to the far end. Stop nailing approx. 6 from a valley, (which should already have Weather Guard ), and angle cut the tar paper to lie down the middle of the valley. 2. If a roll runs out, start with a new roll, overlapping the ends by Overlap the second course of tar paper over the first course by 2 (use the lines on the tar paper as guides). Add additional courses of tar paper, overlapping each. Allow the tar paper to overlap the peak by at least 4, then start again at the bottom of the roof on the other side. At the top, overlap the peak by at least 4 and nail. 4. Trim any overhanging tar paper so that there will be no interference when installing the drip edge Note: The open space at the ridge is covered with felt paper in Step 3 above; this provides weather protection for the house until the roofers install the shingles and ridge vent - the roofers will cut the tar paper away at the ridge before installing the ridge vent. Torn areas in the roof tar paper can be repaired by nailing in a tar paper patch; the patch must be installed up under the row of tar paper above the tear and cover the torn area. Another option is to use the tar flashing tape (used to flash windows) to seal the tear (Be aware this tape is slippery).

35 47. (Continued) Install Roof Underlayment (tar paper &/or Weather Guard ) Installing self-adhering roll roofing ( Weather Guard ) Weather Guard is like plastic wrap - the sticky side really likes to stick to itself! So, use care when peeling off the backing. Valley - Install one strip of roll roofing along the length of the valley. Use care to make sure that the Weather Guard is pressed down into the valley there should not be a bridge area over the valley. Porch roof - Weather Guard is installed from bottom to top. Lay out the Weather Guard along the lower drip edge and cut it to length. Position the material, then peel off all or part of the backing as the material is smoothed and stuck down. Cut the next piece to length, then remove the backing from the adhesive strip on the front side of the first piece. Overlap the 2 nd piece by the width of the adhesive strip and stick it down. Continue similar to tar paper above, overlapping the top of the peak. 47. Install Drip Edge on gable ends On the gable ends, (over the rake), drip edge is installed on top of the tar paper. The drip edge protects the tar paper from high winds and blowing rain. Water flows down hill, so seams where two pieces of drip edge overlap must be installed with the lower piece on the bottom. Start at bottom and work up towards, overlapping pieces approx. 2. The drip edge should be snug to the face of the rake, but not squashed tight. Install with 1 ¼ roofing nails (or cap nails), approx. every 18. At the peak mark and then cut out a V shape in the part of the drip edge that hangs down over the face of the rake so that the drip edge can be bent to wrap over the top with a tidy miter-look. DO NOT use two abutting pieces of drip edge at the peak; always wrap over the peak as described. Don t nail down the part of the drip edge that will be on the far side of the roof, yet - it needs to be nailed down on top of the drip edge coming up from below.

36 48. Install Hurricane Straps on trusses (Simpson strong ties) Install Simpson Strong Ties (hurricane straps) at both ends of every truss, securing the truss to the cap plates. Fasten with 1 galvanized Simpson nails (joist hanger nails), nailing in at least three holes of the strap top and three in the bottom. Ensure that no part of the hurricane strap extends below the cap plate where it will hinder ceiling drywall installation. 49. Install Truss Floaters Never toe-nail trusses to interior walls - trusses can lift up, resulting in drywall cracks. Instead, use truss floaters. Truss floaters should be installed on top of the cap plate on a long interior wall which is perpendicular to the trusses and near the center of the house. Check the truss spacing. If strongbacks have been installed correctly the truss spacing should be correct. If adjustment is necessary remove nails from the strongbacks and reposition. Hold the truss floater, sitting on the cap plate, up against the truss. Nail (2) 8d nails thru the truss floater into the cap plate. Depress the truss to contact the cap plate and nail (1) 8d nail through the plastic slider and into the truss chord. If the trusses don t rest on the cap plate the cap plates should be shimmed up.

37 50. Install Diagonal Bracing for trusses Diagonal bracing, (or X bracing or cross bracing) ensures that trusses won t fall like a stack of dominos in high wind loads. Pull a long tape to ensure truss spacing is correct when nailing the bracing. (Note: if the roof is already sheathed and strongbacks have been installed the truss spacing is already set.) Diagonal bracing zig-zags up and down the trusses, and can be installed on the central upright or on the side chords of the trusses: down the first side Low-High-Low-High, then down the other side High-Low-High-Low, forming X s which support the trusses securely. The X s formed by the bracing must overlap on the same truss, i.e., if the first X ends on a particular truss, the next X must be nailed to that same truss - no gaps allowed between the X s. The diagonal bracing cannot extend outside the house, and it cannot extend below the bottom of the bottom chord where it would interfere with drywall installation later. Make sure the truss spacing is correct, and nail the diagonal bracing into each truss with (2) 16d nails. X Bracing is hard to show because all those trusses get in the way! This is a section view showing part of the trusses cut away; it s easy to see why the long 2x4 bracing is called X- bracing when it s installed on a central upright. When there s no central upright run two waves of bracing, 1 st zigzagging down one side and then the reverse zig-zag down the other side. 51. Install OSB to secure entryways Access between the porch or entryway attic space and the interior attic space of the house should be closed off with OSB or other solid material. This blocking serves two purposes to secure the access from the porch and to prevent blown insulation from getting into the porch ceiling. 52. Cut out Door Base Plates DO NOT cut out door base plates until all walls are up, braced, anchored, and secure. Toe nail a 16d nail into the floor on each side of the studs which form the door opening 4 nails total, two in each stud. Then, cut out each base plate carefully at the edge of the door opening using a reciprocating saw. These cut out base plates can be used for drywall blocking, etc. Note: If rain is likely between day 1 & 2 of the RTR (or before the house is finally weathered in) it s a good idea to cut those base plates out it s a lot easier to sweep water out of the house with the base plates removed.

38 53. Frame the Attic Access Rough Opening The plan documents show where the attic access should be located. The attic access is a minimum of 22 ½ wide (distance between two trusses) by 30 long. Install 2x8 s between the two trusses to frame the opening, making sure the 2x8 s are flush with the bottom of the trusses and will not interfere with the installation of ceiling drywall. Also consider building up the trusses along the opening with 2x4 s to serve as an insulation baffle. 54. Build and Install Birdboxes A boxed return must be created at the bottom of the rakes to enclose the eave. Use 2x6 or 2x8 lumber to make a triangle piece 14 long on the bottom that matches the pitch of the roof and a rectangular board that will extend back to the gable wall. Fasten the birdbox to the bottom of the rake and to the wall with 3 exterior screws. Make sure that the rectangular board is installed perpendicular (square) to the wall, and that the bottom of the birdbox assembly is flush with the bottom of the gutterboard. Also make sure that the screw heads won t interfere with the installation of trim pieces for siding or white metal. In this photo the rectangular piece is full height, so notice that the top edge is beveled to match the roof pitch. If the rectangular piece is shorter the bevel cut is not required; the gap will be covered by white metal later. 55. Sheath Porch Beams Install OSB on the exterior face of the porch beams using 8d nails. Make sure that the OSB doesn t hang below the beams. 56. Install Blueboard on Porch Beams Install blueboard over the OSB on the exterior face of porch beams. Make sure that the blueboard doesn t hang below the beam. Use 1 ½ cap nails sparingly to install the blueboard.

39 57. Install Flashing on window sills 1. If the Dow window sill plastic pans are available they should be used. One right and one left will be needed. Cut off the small inside flange, which is made for 2x4 walls (or, plan to shim up the window stool later). Set one right & one left sill pan in place on the outside edge of the sill (plastic will cover outside edge and approx. 1/3 into the sill. Nail ONLY at the two X s where shown on the plastic. Use (3) pieces (approx. 4 long) of the Dow Straight Flashing Tape (bright blue) to tape the right & left sides to the rough opening and to secure the overlap. 2. If using roof tar paper, cut a strip approx. 10 wide and 12 longer than the width of the opening. Lay the tar paper strip in the opening, starting at the middle of the sill and extending over the rough sill to the outside. Crease the corners, tack down with roofing nails to the rough opening, and then slit the part of the crease that extends out beyond the sill. Fold the outside flaps of tar paper over the 2 strips of OSB on the outside and then tack them into place with roofing nails. Don t overdo the nails later, the window will get screwed in right through the tar paper, so the nails are only holding the tar paper in place until the window can be installed. 3. If using adhesive-backed crinkly flashing, cut a piece approx. 12 longer than the width of the opening. Peel off the backing and install the flashing so that it starts at approx. the middle of the sill and extends towards the outside beyond the sill. Press the flashing down onto the sill, and smooth the flashing down on the outside of the window, forcing the flashing to curve around on the outside at the corners of the opening. A sharp blow with a hammer, especially at the corners, will get the flashing to stick nicely. (Note: do not slit the corners; this special flashing is intended to be continuous.)

40 58. Install Windows 1. Remove packing material from window. 2. Check the sill to see if it is level this is an indication of what kind of shimming might be needed. Put a luan shim on each side of the sill (extending into the house) and set the window into the opening as a test fit. Is the opening wide enough (or too wide)? If the size of the opening is adequate, add additional shims to make the window level. 3. Remove the window from the opening. Apply a 3/8 bead of silicone caulk along the outer edge of both sides and the top of the flange where the window will seat against the 2 OSB strips (over the screw holes). No caulk is required on the bottom flange. (Note: at this point, it s good to have one person inside holding the required shims in place, and another on the outside.) 4. Set the window back into the opening, being sure it s up tight to the wall all around. 5. Center the window side-to-side 6. Make sure the window is shimmed level & plumb, and floats in the opening, not touching the framing at any point if possible. 7. Close the window and lock it to insure that the window stays square. 8. Put a 1 5/8 truss screw (window screw) in 2 diagonal corners of the window i.e., upper right and lower left 9. Re-check the window for fit: level, plumb, centering, etc. Adjust if necessary. 10. Add a few more screws the remaining corners, and 1 in the center of each of the 4 sides. Check to make sure that the window opens & closes OK. 11. Put in the remaining screws i.e. in every other hole of the window flange. Take care not to bow the window flange when installing the screws. 12. Final check does the window open and close smoothly, and does it lock properly? 59. Install Flashing around windows Use Dow Straight Flashing (bright blue, also known as tar tape) to flash the windows. 1. Cut (2) pieces of flashing approx. 9 longer than the sides of the window. 2. Install the flashing from approx. 2 above the window opening to approx. 7 below the window opening along each side of the window. Just cover the screw holes - if the flashing is installed too close to the actual window the flashing will show through later (after siding). 3. Cut (1) piece of flashing the width of the window plus 9. Install this piece of flashing centered above the window, over the top of the side flashing, and just covering the screw holes. 4. No flashing is required under the window! Bright Blue Tar Tape flashing for windows (This picture is shown on a house with house wrap, so ignore the flaps taped up above the windows.)

41 60. Install Exterior Doors 1. Remove any nails or screws installed through the jambs to secure the door for shipping. 2. Check the subfloor at the sill position to see if it s relatively level, check that the side studs (jacks) are plumb, and check that the rough opening dimensions are correct. Fix any problems. 3. Install flashing in the door sill (similar to window sills - use roof tar paper, WeatherGuard, or plastic sill pans). Put (2) generous beads of silicone caulk on the flashing where the aluminum sill will be installed, an inch inside the front and rear edges. Extend the caulk 2-3 inches up the sides of the rough framing. 4. Install the door, tipping it into place from the outside into the caulk carefully. 5. Place the door in the opening against the hinge-side jack. If the door is not plumb shim as needed behind the hinges. 6. Adjust the frame assembly and shim as needed until the jamb on the hinge side of the door is plumb in both directions (side-to-side and in-out). There should be a constant gap (approx. 1/8 ) between the jamb and the edge of the door. Remove the top screw from each hinge and install a long (2 ½ - 3 ) screw instead to secure the door to the jack. Make sure there are shims where the long screws are installed if there is any space between the jamb and the framing. The long screws will extend beyond the door trim and into the door framing to provide solid anchoring of the door to the frame. 7. From outside, with the door closed, make sure there is even contact between the door face and the weatherstripping attached to the frame opposite the hinge jamb. Make any adjustments if necessary by adjusting the jamb in or out at the top or bottom. 8. From inside the house with the door closed, examine the edges of the door. Adjust the top jamb and the lock-side jamb until there is an even gap (approx. 1/8 ). 9. Open and close the door to check that the door doesn t bind, and that the door doesn t swing open too easily on its own. 10. Install solid shims behind the lock strike screws. 11. Secure the door permanently: Remove one additional screw from each hinge and replace with a long (2 ½ - 3 ) screw to secure the door to the jack. Make sure there are shims where the long screws are installed if there is any space between the jamb and the framing. Continue around the door, securing the remaining jambs with 3 exterior screws hidden under the weather stripping, driven through shims into the framing. Check the door operation frequently. It is important that the screws be installed through shims to prevent distorting the door frame by putting pressure against an unsupported area. 12. Install a green deadbolt, (a deadbolt which uses the Habitat key) making sure that all strike plates and latches are mortised correctly so that the door will lock securely. The hole in the door jamb may need to be drilled out so that the bolt will throw all the way. This green deadbolt will be used to secure the house throughout construction; the homeowner s permanent lock will be installed after the closing.

42 61. Install Insulation & Drywall behind tub Soon after the Raise the Roof is complete the plumbing subcontractor will begin rough installation. If the bathtub will be installed on an exterior wall that wall should be insulated and drywalled before the tub is installed. Install insulation with the vapor barrier (paper side) facing the conditioned space (i.e. paper towards the inside for walls). It s OK to hang the piece of drywall vertically if that works out. 62. Install Drywall and Luan in mechanical room Soon after the Raise the Roof is completed the HVAC and subcontractor will begin installation. Before the furnace is installed the mechanical room should be drywalled, and luan plywood should be installed on the floor. Install drywall on the ceiling and walls. If possible, mud and tape the drywall access is difficult once the furnace and hot water heater have been installed. Install luan on the floor. Luan should be stapled to the subfloor with ⅝ or ¾ narrow crown staples, every 4 in the field and every 2 around the perimeter. 63. Install Kitchen Cabinet Blocking Kitchen cabinets will be installed by the trim crew later, but before the house is insulated and drywalled appropriate blocking should be installed. As shown in Appendix F, there will be three rows of 2x4 blocking installed on any kitchen walls where cabinets will be hung. There will be a cabinet above the range, a cabinet above the refrigerator, and a base cabinet under the window, so blocking is also required in these locations. See Appendix F for additional information. Note: If the house design requires a soffit (typically when the stove is not on an exterior wall) the top row of blocking may need to be installed lower check dimensions and adjust as needed.

43 64. Install Bathroom Blocking Before drywall is installed blocking should be installed in the bathroom for fixtures. See Appendix F for details. This illustration shows a typical bathroom. (Grab bar blocking is hidden in the walls behind the toilet and tub, and the robe hook, toothbrush holder, and soap dish are not shown) 65. Install Blocking for Closet Shelves Check the framing closets (bedroom, linen, pantry, coat, laundry) to make sure that the appropriate shelves &/or rods can be supported. Refer to Appendix B, Framing Details, for typical shelf heights. (or refer to Appendix F, Blocking and Hardware Installation) Hanging closets and the laundry shelf will require center support(s), so make sure that there are suitable studs. Add blocking if needed. 66. Install Blocking for Baseboards Blocking may be required in corners for baseboard. Check all inside and outside corners of the house to ascertain whether there will be somewhere to nail the baseboard. If needed, nail scrap blocks to the bottom plates. 67. Install Blocking for Light Switches At each door, exterior and interior, there will be a light switch. Be sure that there is somewhere convenient for the electricians to attach the electrical box near, but not directly on, the stud framing the door. Light switches are located 48 above the floor. Ladders installed at 48 may need to be removed to allow installation of light switches.

44 68. Install Roof Flashing, Ridge Vent, and Shingles A local contractor installs flashing, shingles, and ridge vents. See Appendix J for the Roofing Shingles Workshop. 69. Install Starter Strip for Vinyl Siding The starter strip will be used to install the first course of siding, and will largely determine whether the siding goes up straight, level, and aligned around corners. 1. Determine the lowest corner of the house and snap a level chalk line 1 ¾ up from the top block; that point will represent the top of the starter strip. Work around the house, snapping a chalk line on each wall. 2. Carefully align the top of the starter strip with the chalk line. 3. Nail the starter strip approx. every 8, in the center of the slot, and not too tightly. Nail in the lowest row of nail slots that will still bite into wood. Use 2 galvanized roofing nails. 4. Leave room at the corners for corner posts - typically end the starter strip approx. 5 from each corner. 5. Line each new piece of starter strip up carefully on the chalked line, but don t butt the pieces - leave approx. ½ between pieces of starter strip to allow for expansion and contraction. 6. Check the starter strip periodically with a level. See Basic Accessory Installation in Appendix G for additional info. 70. Install Drip Cap for the Rear Entry Door The typical front door is protected by the porch roof, but the typical rear entry door has no roof protection. Install a metal drip cap over the brick mold of the door before installing J channel around the rear entry door.

45 71. Install J Channel around doors J channel is intended to look good, receive the siding, and direct runoff. Wide J channel is app. 2 wide and is used to trim all doors and windows which are located on the front elevation (visible from the front of the house). Regular J channel is ¾-1 wide the actual size isn t critical, but it is important to use all one size Regular J channel on a house. Use 2 galvanized roofing nails to install J channel. 1. For the top, cut a piece of J channel the width of the door frame + the width of the face of the (2) pieces of J channel which will be installed on the sides of the door. Notch (what will be the bottom) of both ends, forming a tab. The length of the notch (tab) should equal the width of the face. Fold the tab down. Miter the face of both ends. 2. For the sides, measure from 1/8 above the porch to the top of the door frame. Cut the J channel to the measured length + the width of the face of the top J channel. Bottom End: leave square. Top End: Notch the back of the side J channel where it would hit the top J, forming a tab. The length of the notch (tab) should equal the width of the face. Remove this tab. Do not miter the face. 3. Install the 3 pieces with the tabs of the top J tucked into the side J pieces (so that water will be directed down inside the side J pieces and away from the door frame) and with the mitered edges showing on the outside of the side J pieces.

46 72. Install J Channel for front windows and electrical service panel The electrical service panel should be trimmed with J channel. The windows which are visible from the front of the house should also be trimmed with (wide) J channel. For windows and the electrical service panel there will be a bottom piece of J, so there are some differences vs. the door trim. Use 2 galvanized roofing nails to install J channel. 1. Top - cut a piece of J channel the width of the window or panel + the width of the face of the (2) pieces of J channel which will be installed on the sides. Notch (what will be the bottom) of both ends, forming a tab. The length of the notch (tab) should equal the width of the face. Fold the tab down. Miter the face of both ends. 2. Bottom - cut a piece of J channel the width of the window or panel + the width of the face of the (2) pieces of J channel which will be installed on the sides. Notch (what will be the top) of both ends. The length of the notch (tab) should equal the width of the face. Remove the tab and do not miter the face. 3. Sides - Cut the pieces the height of the window or panel + the width of the faces of the top and bottom pieces of J. Bottom End: Notch (what will be the inside) of the bottom ends, forming a tab. The length of the notch (tab) should equal the width of the face. Fold the tab towards the window. Miter the face of the bottom end. Top End: Notch (what will be the inside) of the top ends, forming a tab. The length of the notch (tab) should equal the width of the face. Remove this tab. Do not miter the face. 4. Install the 4 pieces with the top tabs tucked into the side pieces, and with the bottom tabs tucked into the bottom piece, and with all mitered edges showing on the outside.

47 73. Install F Channel under eaves for soffit The photo above shows F channel installed under the eave and above the corner post, mitered at the corner, and ready to receive soffit. The illustrations above are section views. As shown in the illustrations: 1. Use a carpenter s square from the bottom of the gutter board to the wall of the house to determine the square point. Mark a point 1 down from the square point. The 1 allows for the depth of the soffit so when the soffit is installed it will be level. 2. Snap a chalk line the length of the house at the 1 down marks. 3. Install the F channel with the flange up; line up the bottom of the F channel on the chalk line. 4. Nail the F channel approx. every 8 in the center of a slot, not tightly, the F channel may need to expand/contract. The F channel should extend above the corner post to the corner of the house. 5. Butt the ends where two pieces of F channel meet (if installing in cold weather leave a small gap between pieces of F channel for expansion)

48 74. Install Soffit under eaves (horizontal sections) The first piece of soffit on the horizontal eave will be an L-shaped piece cut to fit under the birdbox. Make sure that this piece does not extend beyond the birdbox in any direction, and secure it to the birdbox with white nails. The rest of the soffit pieces should be cut to length (make sure that they don t extend beyond the gutterboard), latched to the preceding piece of soffit, nested into the F-channel, and nailed into the gutterboard with a roofing nail. 75. Install Outside Corner Posts The installation of corner posts can be difficult; often both ends require a tricky profile. Verify how long the post needs to be and what the profile will be before cutting. It s usually best to work out the details on a scrap length before cutting the good stock. The photo above right shows a template for a corner post that had to be notched out around a porch roof and continue on up to the main roof it is easy to miss that the corner post needed to extend up beyond the porch roof. 1. The corner post should be sized to hang ½ below the bottom of the siding starter strip. The corner post installed at the porch will typically be notched to extend below the porch to the starter strip - don t cut the corner post off square at the porch. 2. Cut away the nailing flange for ¾ at the bottom of the corner post so that it won t show later 3. The corner post should fit just under the F channel for the soffit. 4. Make sure the corner post is installed square and plumb - use a 4 level 5. Once positioned, drive a nail into the top of the topmost slot on both sides of the corner post - this nail will keep the post from sagging. Use 2 galvanized roofing nails to install the corner post. 6. Nail in the center of the slots on both sides approx. every 10, making sure not to squash the corner post - check plumb and square periodically.

49 76. Install Inside Corner Posts Inside corner posts aren t as difficult as outside corner posts to install, but verify the profile and dimensions before cutting. 1. The corner post should fit just under the F channel for the soffit. Allow ¼ clearance at the bottom when cutting the corner post to length. 2. Cut away the nailing flange for ¾ at the bottom of the corner post so that it won t show later 3. Install similar to outside corner post, square, plumb, and not squashed, and with the top nail at the top of the topmost slot to prevent sagging. Use 2 galvanized roofing nails to install the corner post. 77. Install Universal under F Channel along eaves Universal, or Double Finish Trim. Notice that there are two slots for receiving siding. 1. Universal should be installed flange down, under the F channel, and nested inside the corner posts. 2. Like F channel, nail the Universal in the center of the slots, approx. every 8, and do not nail tightly, the Universal may need to expand and contract. 3. Butt the ends of Universal where two pieces meet. (if installing in cold weather leave a small gap between pieces of Universal for expansion) 78. Install Soffit (gable ends) 1. Install a piece of J channel nailed to the rake at the lower ends of the gable, where the gable eave meets the birdbox. (See the photo at right, the J- channel is perpendicular to the gable end OSB.) Use roofing nails to install the J channel. This J channel will receive the soffit. 2. Start at either birdbox. Cut a piece of soffit to the correct length - approx. 1/8-1/4 less than the width of the rake. Do not allow the soffit to extend past the face of the rake at all. Don t cut too many pieces ahead, as it usually pays to check the measurement every few pieces. 3. Rest the 1 st piece of soffit in the J channel with the nailer up. Nail the soffit into the rake. Nail into both the inside and outside rake. 4. Do not cut the soffit at the peak. Bend the soffit to form it into the correct shape. Nail through the bend at the peak with white nails to hold the soffit at the peak. 5. Cut the final piece to fit and secure it with white nails. Note: P channel (Finish trim) can be used instead of J channel to start and end the gable-end soffit. Cut off the hemmed end of the 1 st piece of soffit and install the finish trim and 1 st piece as a unit.

50 79. Install J under Soffit and around Bird Boxes on gable ends Correct!! Wrong! It s difficult to see the actual J channel in the top photo, but it s there - installed along the gable with the nailing flange against the blueboard, ready to receive siding. The left photo shows J inside the corner post, mitered at the inside corner of the notch in the siding, and continuing up the side of the birdbox and then along the gable end under the soffit. F channel has been installed above the corner post in the left photo, so although the soffit hasn t been installed under the birdbox yet, there s space reserved. The right photo is an Oops! - the soffit hasn t been installed under the birdbox yet, and the beautifully mitered J channel is tight to the bottom of the birdbox - this had to be redone so that F channel and soffit could be installed. 80. Install P Channel (Finish Trim) under windows Finish Trim or P channel This trim is cut to the width of each window and installed under each window, up inside the built-in flange of the window. Finish trim receives the top edge of the siding and holds the siding securely in place. (Note: sometimes the cut piece of siding at the bottom of the window falls at an awkward spot to force it into the P channel. In that case cut a piece of Universal to fit instead - Universal has two slots, a choice of an inside or outside slot, for siding.) P channel (finish trim) is not required for windows wrapped with 2 J channel.

51 81. Install Special Trim Elements vents, shutters, crossheads, etc. Gable end vents are typically strictly decorative. The attic space is well ventilated by the perforated soffit used, so the gable end vents can be simply planted on top of the OSB. Cover the area where the vent will be installed with black tar paper so that the blueboard won t show through the vent. Install the vent centered left to right, and be sure to allow enough space for siding around the vent on all sides (some installations are pretty cramped). Make sure the vent is installed square and plumb, and the vent slats should be slanted down. (If the vent is actually required for ventilation, as shown on the plan documents, cut out a hole in the OSB under the vent.) Shutters are installed on top of the siding - square, level, and evenly spaced. The holes in the siding should be drilled larger than the screws to be used to allow for expansion of the siding. A crosshead (decorative piece over a door or window) may be planted on top of the siding (but make sure it doesn t slant back; the crosshead should not follow the contour of the siding). A crosshead can also be installed before the siding is installed, with a spacer behind the crosshead to form a channel for the siding. Be sure to consider the material used for the spacer, because the spacer will be exposed to moisture. The spacer can be wrapped with J channel for protection. 82. Install Soffit for porch ceiling 1. Install blocking if needed around the perimeter of the porch ceiling. 2. Install J channel all around the porch, using screws up into the trusses &/or blocking. White metal will be installed behind the J channel, so there s a fine line between a nicely fitted corner and one that s too tight for the white metal over the beam. 3. Do not nail through the J into the porch beams or house wall; later the white metal which wraps the beam will need to be slid in behind this J channel. 4. Cut the soffit to fit, and screw it into the porch trusses (it s OK to nail these, but it s a easier to use a screw gun overhead!) 5. Cut the final piece of soffit to fit the width and secure it in place with white nails.

52 83. Install Siding Refer to Appendix G, Siding Information for siding installation details. A few guidelines follow: 1. Plan the overlaps so seams are less noticeable from the desired viewing angle. For example, start at back of house and work to the front, or start away from the door and work towards the door, etc. The first course of siding should be white ( Silhouette ), the color for the remaining courses is selected by the homeowner. 2. Be sure to push each new course up to lock it in. Take particular care with the Silhouette; it doesn t tend to latch securely and may slip off of the starter strip. However, do not stretch the siding upwards. 3. Siding needs room to grow!! - a. Leave approx. 1/4 gap at ends; corner, window, door, etc. b. Leave approx. 1 gap between nailing strips on overlapping factory edges 4. Use 2 galvanized roofing nails, hammered (not tightly, siding must be able to move back and forth) into the center of approx. every 7 th hole. Try to nail straight - angled nails can force the siding out of alignment. 5. Waste not, want not plan the work for minimum waste, but NEVER use a piece of siding shorter than 36! (unless it s a short wall) 6. Never line up two seams vertically - Go with a random look; seams staggered by 2-3 OR line up seams on every other course, or every 3 rd course 7. Check every course or so for level and adjust as needed 8. Keep courses aligned around corners of house and across windows and doors 9. No seams immediately above or below a window Make sure that there is at least one continuous course above and below any window 10. Flashing at roof eaves will be installed by the roofers

53 84. Install Sunburst (if required) This house is getting the works - a crosshead over the window, a sunburst, AND scallops! For the sunburst, use plain white siding, Silhouette. 1. Once the regular siding is installed, put up a starter strip for the sunburst, and install 2 pieces of J channel, back to back, vertically up the center of the sunburst area. 2. Measure the dimensions of the sunburst area, and transfer those dimensions to a layout board - it s much easier to do all of the tedious layout and cutting work on the ground. 3. The sunburst is laid out and built in two symmetrical halves. Each half should have 5-8 segments. 4. Cut off the nailer from the Silhouette, then cut out the first ray. At the narrow, lower end cut away plenty of the bulk - this area will be covered later by a semicircle of Silhouette. 5. Rivet a piece of nailer back onto the upper edge of the cut ray. 6. Nail this first piece to the layout board. 7. Cut, fit, and nail the remaining rays to the layout board, including the other half of the sunburst. 8. Remove the rays from the layout board and label them. Install the rays in the gable end, trimming rays to fit if needed. 9. Cut out a semicircle of Silhouette for the sun ; typically 6 diameter. Rivet the semicircle at the bottom to cover up the area where the rays come together. 85. Install Special Siding (scallops, shingles) if required The plan documents will show any special vinyl required. Special starter strip is required for scallops and shingles - it s flatter than the normal starter strip for siding. Regular siding starter strip can be modified for use with scallops or shingles; see Appendix G. Scallops or shingles are typically installed in the gable ends, and when the required angle cuts are made there may be little pieces of siding - a scallop here, a shingle there - falling off, because it s no longer attached in back! Plan the installation carefully to avoid problems later. Try laying out the first couple of courses on the ground, and decide where to make the cuts for the most balanced look and the least unwanted fall-off.

54 86. Bend White Metal - for eaves & gable ends White metal (white-painted aluminum, 24 wide), is cut to size, bent, and then installed to provide an attractive, (near) maintenance free exterior. White metal is scored and cut to size with a utility knife, and then bent to shape in a machine called a Sheet Metal Brake (or Brake, for short). 1. Slit the box of white metal down one long side and pull out the length needed from the roll. Try to keep the box intact - the roll will unwind like a spring without the box. 2. Set up a good worktable - like a 4x8 sheet of OSB on sawhorses. White metal can be scratched, so handle it carefully throughout the process. 3. Pull out a little more than 10 of white metal. Measure 10 along the edge of the white metal and make a mark. Hold a carpenter s square on the 10 mark and score across the white metal with a utility knife. Bend the white metal at the scored line to break it. The cut piece of white metal should be 24 W x 10 L. 4. Using the carpenter s square, measure in 8 and 16 from each end and make a mark. 5. Transfer the sheet of white metal to the Brake and line up the edge of the Brake with a set of marks - the goal in this step is to cut off a piece which will be 8 wide by 10 long. Line up carefully, then clamp the Brake. Double check that the white metal is lined up on the correct marks. 6. Score the full length of the white metal with a utility knife, using the clamped edge of the Brake as a guide. Score 2 or more times to make sure that the white metal is scored sufficiently to break when bent. 7. Grasp the handles underneath the Brake and rotate them up slowly (while still clamped); this will bend the white metal along the scored line; and the metal will break. Once the metal has broken let the handles down and release the clamp. 8. Repeat steps 6-8 to cut the remaining 16 wide piece into two more 8 wide x 10 long pieces. 9. The next steps are to form a ½ hem along one long edge of each of the 8 wide pieces, then bend up 1 90 degrees to form the 1 lip. Mark each 8 x 10 piece, at both ends, ½ and 1 ½ up from a long edge. 10. Clamp a piece into the metal brake, lined up on the ½ marks, with the ½ extending towards you. No scoring this time; line up correctly and clamp, then pull up on the rotating handles all the way, bending the ½ over as far as it will go. Release the handles and unclamp the Brake. 11. Now this partially formed hem must be flattened. Remove the piece from the Brake and clamp the Brake closed(empty). 12. Set the piece with the partially formed hem on the ledge at the edge of the brake nearest you, with the hem down and facing you. Pull the entire hinge assembly of the brake towards you, forming a slight ledge for the partial hem to rest on, then rotate the brake handles up all the way. The hem will be flattened between the rotating part of the brake and the up-side of the closed clamp. Press hard - this should make a nice, flat, ½ hem on the piece. 13. Remove the piece and unclamp the brake. Put the piece back in the brake, this time lining up on the 1 ½ marks, with the hem towards you and facing up. Once lined up, clamp the brake. 14. Grab the bending handles and rotate up, watching the piece carefully, until a 90 degree bend has been formed in the piece. 15. Release the handles - if the bend isn t quite a 90 degree bend, try again - slow and careful. 16. For now, that piece is done - it s 10 long with a ½ flat hem and a 1 wide 90 degree lip. Set the piece aside, and then repeat steps on the remaining two pieces. 17. A typical house requires approx. 20 pieces. Again, store and handle the pieces carefully - scratched or mangled pieces should not be installed.

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56 87. Bend White Metal for Birdboxes Simple Sketch - Think of this sketch as a top view. The little hook on the left is the 1 90 deg w/ ½ hem which wraps around the far corner. Measured Height is C - in the photo at right measure from the bottom of the soffit on the birdbox to up under the J where the soffit is installed on the gable end. If the height is less than 6 ½ a piece of the white metal which was bent for eaves and gable ends can be used. This diagram shows the layout for the Left Gable birdbox above.

57 White metal is cut and bent to clad the birdboxes at the gable ends. The birdbox pictured above would need the Left Gable Birdbox shown in the illustration below. 1. Measure each birdbox; it helps to make a simple sketch showing where the bends need to be. The finished white metal birdbox will cover the edges of the soffit and slip in between the J and the birdbox at the house wall. It will also need to slip in behind the J at the bottom end of the soffit on the gable. There will be a 1 hemmed lip which wraps around to the face of the gutter board, and the entire bottom will have a 1 hemmed lip. 2. Measure from the outside corner back to the house. ( A in the sketches above.) 3. Measure from the outside corner across to the face of the gutter board. ( B in the sketches above). 4. Measure the height from the bottom of the soffit on the bottom of the bird box to up under the J (i.e., up to the rake). (Height is C in the sketches above.) 5. Now, think of it as if it s folded flat and add the hem dimensions to get the size of the piece needed to start with. Cut a piece to the following dimensions: Width: A + B + 1 ½ Height: C + 1 ½ 6. Hem the bottom edge of the piece, and hem the gutterboard end of B, - both hems ½ wide. 7. Form the 1 lip at 90 deg on the hemmed bottom edge - be sure to form the lip the correct way. 8. On what will become the inside of the piece mark layout lines - one for the 90 degree bend to form the A-B corner, and one to form the 90 deg lip at the gutterboard end of B which will wrap around to the face of the gutterboard. Pay careful attention to the layout - birdboxes for Right and Left gable ends are not interchangeable; they re mirror images; make sure to measure from the correct end. 9. Form the 1 wrap-around lip: In order to make this bend snip the bottom hem. Snip straight through at the layout line, and then snip at a 45 deg angle and remove the v notch. Gently open out the ½ hem on the 45 deg side so that when make the 90 deg bend the two hems will interlock. 10. Using an end of the brake, insert the piece on the layout line, clamp, and bend to 90 deg. It helps to have 2 people - 1 to bend slowly while the other person coaxes the flat hem inside the opened out hem. 11. Repeat steps 9 & 10 to form the A-B bend. 12. The rough bird just created will need to be trimmed to fit when it s installed.

58 88. Install Fascia (white metal on gutter board, bird boxes, and gable ends) Installing the last piece of white metal at the peak. Install white metal on the gutterboards first, then on the birdboxes, and then on the gable ends. Use white nails sparingly they do show, so use only enough to hold securely. On Gutterboard - Start in the back of the house, lining up the white metal evenly with the back edge of the gutterboard. The white metal goes up under the drip edge; make sure that the white metal is all the way up so that the lip is holding the soffit securely. Don t force the white metal - it will bend and wrinkle - very ugly. Instead, try to slide the white metal in, or use a 5-in-1 tool to gently lift the drip edge. Once the white metal is properly positioned, nail it with 6-8 white nails per 10 length. Be sure the nails will hit wood; i.e. don t nail in the gap between the soffit and the gutterboard. Overlap the next piece by approx. 2. Plan ahead so that there isn t a very short piece at the front of the house. Birdboxes - Use snips to trim the rough birdbox down to fit, then slide it in behind the J and capturing the soffit. Once properly positioned nail with white nails. On Gable Ends 1. Lower piece: Install the bottom piece on both sides first. Start by trimming away the 1 hem where the white metal overlaps the birdbox. Also trim an extra 2 of hem so that the end will run wild (long) at the bottom. Hold the trimmed piece up in place and trace around the outside of the lower corner of the birdbox. Trim away the excess along the traced lines. Install with white nails st Side upper piece: This piece will overlap the lower piece by approx. 2, and it should run long at the peak by approx Measure up along the bottom of the lower piece to the peak. Cut the stock to this length plus 5. The length of the lip to be kept is the measurement plus 2 - cut away the lip at the upper end that isn t needed. Hold the piece up in place and trim away the excess at the very peak that interferes with installation. The final piece will overlap the bottom piece by 2 and run past the peak. Install with white nails nd Side upper piece - This piece will overlap the lower piece by 2 and have a plumb cut (vertical) at the top. Make the plumb cut on the correct end of a piece of stock. Measure up from the top of the lower piece to the peak. Cut the stock to length, allowing for the 2 overlap. Install with white nails.

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60 89. Build and Install the Crawl Space Door (*Not applicable for concrete slab construction) The door and framing for the crawl space must be air tight and well insulated. 1. Install 2x4 or 2x6 pressure treated blocking/framing around the entire perimeter of the crawl space opening using concrete fasteners (like Tapcons ). Inset the framing 1 ¼ to 1 ½ from the exterior surface of the blocks. 2. Caulk the 2x4 (or 2x6) joints and caulk the perimeter of the frame to the block opening. 3. Cut a piece of T-1-11 siding and a piece of ½ Styrofoam to fit the block opening. 4. Insulate the back side of the crawl space door (inside the framing) with at least 2 of Styrofoam, followed by a piece of OSB, cut to completely fill the framing. Positioning the 2 Styrofoam and OSB backer is challenging. One person should hold the plug from inside the crawl space while the assembly is screwed together from the outside, through the T-1-11, ½ Styrofoam, 2 Styrofoam, and into the OSB backing. 5. Install the door sandwich into the pressure treated blocking/framing using 8-10 exterior screws. The door must be installed tightly to form an air tight seal between the ½ Styrofoam and the framing.

61 90. Install White Metal on porch beams The photo below shows the white metal for a porch beam being installed. Each beam requires careful measuring, cutting, fitting, and bending, and every piece is unique. Generally, an experienced person will need to lead this project. Notice in the photo that this porch beam is constructed of two 2x8 s with spacers between. Check the plan documents - add blocking (before installing the white metal!) anywhere that there will be a full height porch post - the posts need to be supported by solid wood. 91. Make, Paint, and Install the House Address Plaque(s) The house number plaque is made from a piece of 1x6 poplar, approx. 15 long, and routered on all 4 sides with a ¾ roundover bit. Prime the plaque, then paint with exterior white semigloss paint. Install the plaque with (2) 3 exterior screws, which should be hidden under the house numbers. If the house has an alley a second plaque for the back of the house will be required. (Another option for the 2 nd house number plaque, if required, is to install it on the shed, facing the alley.)

62 92. Measure for Gutters Gutters will be installed on all horizontal roof overhangs (eaves). When installed, the gutter will extend approx. 1 beyond the shingles, so that all of the runoff from the roof will flow into the gutters. Measure the gutterboard length, add the shingle overhang on each end, then add the extra 1 for each end beyond the shingles. Plan the drops - where and how many downspouts, elbows, corners, etc. are required. 93. Install Gutters and Downspouts Gutters will be extruded on site. Gutters need to be installed the day they re delivered, since the longest gutters can t be stored in the house easily. Gutters 1. Double check the required length for each section of gutter. Measure the actual length of the gutter, and shorten if necessary. Mark the centerline of the gutter on the gutterboard and on the gutter. 2. Snap chalk lines showing where gutters will be installed - gutters must be installed so that water flows downhill - 1 of drop for every 40 of length. The high point of the gutter will be up against the bottom of the roof drip edge; measure down from the drip edge to determine the low point. For example, if the gutter is 75 long there will be a downspout at each end. Snap chalk lines from the centerline up at the drip edge to the end of the gutterboard, 1 down from the drip edge. 3. Determine the downspout locations. The finished gutter will extend beyond the end of the gutterboard, and approx. 1 beyond the shingles on the roof, so plan accordingly when locating the gutter drops. 4. Long gutters are flimsy; set up several sawhorses to support the gutters while prepping for installation. Later, several ladders should be pre-positioned to transfer the gutters from the sawhorses to people ready on ladders to install the gutters. 5. Install the end caps - use gutter adhesive and secure with rivets. If corner pieces are required install them with gutter adhesive and rivets, too. 6. Mark the location of the drops for downspouts and punch out the hole using the special gutter-punching tool. Install the drops using gutter adhesive and rivets. 7. Install Gutter Champion (foam) if specified (optional on 1-story houses, included on 2-story houses). 8. Start at one end and mark the gutter every 2, plus mark approx. 3 in from each end - this is where gutter hangers will be installed. Place a gutter hanger at each mark and predrill through the gutter. (Predrilling is optional) 9. Make sure that all potential leak points are well sealed with gutter adhesive. 10. Install the prepped gutter along the chalk lines with hex-head gutter screws; use a long extender on the drill/driver. Keep the gutter on the chalked line to maintain the correct slope!

63 Downspouts Downspouts typically consist of an S-shaped section at the top, a long straight section, and then an elbow at the bottom to direct the water flow away from the house. Water flows down hill and must stay in the downspout until the bottom, so make sure that the connections are made with lower pieces OUTSIDE upper pieces. Also, the elbows and downspouts are formed with a seam on one side. Construct the downspout assembly so that this seam is toward the house (hidden) as much as possible. 1. The right-hand photo (previous page) shows the S-shaped section. This assembly consists of two elbows with a short section (usually 4-5 long) of downspout between. Adjust the length of the short straight section so that the assembly will fit. Once the fit is correct rivet the pieces together, then install the assembly by riveting it to the gutter drop. 2. Determine the length of the long straight section. This can be tricky since the lot is unlikely to be graded. Consult with the House Leader or Construction Supervisor if necessary. Cut the downspout to length. 3. Use gutter straps to install and support the downspouts, typically two per downspout. Screw the straps into the wall of the house (through the siding; use a gutter screw or a 2 ½-3 exterior screw), then wrap the strap tightly and neatly around the downspout and install a rivet through both ends of the strap and the downspout. Finally, use (2) rivets to secure the top of the downspout to the S- shaped assembly. 4. The downspout is finished with an elbow at the bottom, attached with rivets, which will direct water away from the house. However - wait until later to install this final elbow if there s grading, concrete work, or landscaping that will be difficult to complete without damaging the elbow. In this case, store the elbows and plan to install them later. 94. Seal the Return Air Rough Opening The HVAC contractor will install the return air rough opening. Make sure that solid blocking has been installed at the return air vent and caulk for air sealing. This is an Energy Star requirement, see Appendix A.

64 95. Foam/air seal Windows and Exterior Doors Windows should be air sealed on all four sides. For larger gaps, use low expansion foam (the regular foam can damage the frames). Where the gap is too small for foam or stuffed insulation apply a bead of caulk. This is often the case at the bottom of the window. Note: if low expansion foam is not available stuff the gap with scraps of insulation, but be aware that the foam provides a much better air seal. If using foam, do not try to wipe off any excess while wet. Allow the foam to completely set, then carefully cut away the excess with a knife. This window has been foamed on the top and the sides, and caulked on the bottom. 96. Foam Penetrations Use foam to fill all openings between conditioned and un-conditioned spaces: i.e. at pipes, electrical wires, etc. Check all top and bottom plates carefully for penetrations and seal all openings with foam. BUT that gigantic hole the plumber leaves under the tub? Do not nail down a hard cover under the tub this is the plumber s access in case of a problem. Cover this hole with luan, OSB, or blueboard in such a way that it can be pushed aside if necessary, or close up this opening from the crawl space below, using short screws. Also, the pipe where the electrical wires come into the house from the electrical service panel should not be foamed stuff this pipe with insulation. 97. Rough-ins and Inspections Several subcontractors will need to complete rough-in work and pass inspection before work can continue on the inside of the house: Once the Plumbing, Electrical, and HVAC inspections have been completed the Construction Supervisor will request the framing inspection. House Leaders should confirm that the inspections have been completed by sighting the posted inspection stickers.

65 98. Install Baffles at eaves Cardboard baffles should be installed between the tails of the trusses. The purpose of the baffle is to allow air circulation, so make sure that there s a path for air from the soffit area up into the attic space. The baffles also prevent blown insulation from getting into the soffit area. The cardboard baffles should be folded into shape and stapled or nailed to the trusses (any fastener will do to hold the cardboard in position). The cardboard can be cut and custom fit around blocking or for odd sized cavities. 99. Insulate Walls 2x6 walls are insulated with R-19, and if there is an exterior 2x4 wall it will be insulated with R-13. The paper side, which is the vapor barrier, should be installed towards the conditioned space (inside, for walls). Use 23 ½ wide batts for studs on 24 spacing and 15 wide batts for studs on 16 spacing. Cut insulation to fit for odd size cavities, including window and door headers (typically, measure the width of the space and add 1 ). Insulation should completely fill the cavity to limit the bypassing of air (no gaps!), but don t over-compress. Where there are obstructions, like wires or pipes, slice through the insulation side (not the paper) so that the insulation can flow around the obstruction. Don t forget to insulate the header area over windows and doors. Also, be sure that there is insulation behind all electrical boxes, and in nooks and crannies like where the porch beams tie into the house walls. To hold the insulation in place, staple it to the studs (staple inside the stud cavity, not on the face of the studs where the bulk might interfere with drywall). For noise reduction, also consider insulating interior bathroom or laundry walls which are adjacent to bedrooms or other living areas. Quality Control - check each wall systematically - it s easy to miss an almost hidden cavity at a corner, for example. Fill any gaps with scraps of insulation Before Hanging Drywall Make sure that all blocking is complete bathrooms, kitchen, drywall, etc. Refer to Appendix F, Blocking and Hardware Installation. Mark electrical outlet boxes, vents, lights, etc. on the floor before beginning drywall installation.

66 101. Hang Drywall 1. Cutting drywall - Drywall is 4 wide by 8, 10, and 12 long. Plan the installation using these lengths to maximize the use of drywall and minimize the number of seams that will have to be finished. Measure the desired length, and score through the paper face on the drywall using a drywall square and a sharp utility knife. Go to the other side of the drywall and place your knee on the drywall behind the scored line. Bend the drywall at the score to snap it, then cut through the paper on that side. If needed, use a rasp to smooth the edge. 2. Drywall will cover up trusses, studs, electrical boxes, etc., so make sure that the position of each has been noted before lifting the drywall into place. For example, in the photo at left above the stud has been marked on the floor with a spray paint stripe (hard to see in the photo), and electrical boxes have been identified at 18 and 82 from the floor, the 18 box to the left of the stud and the 82 box to the right of the stud. 3. Drywall should be attached securely to trusses or studs - a screw which misses wood won t set right, it just spins on the surface. Remove the loose screw and shift right or left to hit wood. The extra hole will be patched later. 4. Ceilings - Drywall must be hung on ceilings before walls. Mark trusses on the cap plates for future reference, and note whether special cuts must be made; for example, at light fixtures, duct work, or the attic access. Cut the drywall to fit and place it on the lift, good side facing the floor. Place drywall adhesive along the trusses, only where the current sheet of drywall will cover. (Drywall adhesive cures quickly, so don t get ahead with adhesive.) Lift the drywall into position and screw it into the trusses, just dimpling the paper with the screws, not breaking through the paper. For ceilings use 5 screws across per truss. Do not screw drywall within 9-12 of the interior partition wall which has the truss floaters (typically a long hallway wall). For sheets which will cover a vent or light fixture, do not completely fasten the board initially. Use a router or keyhole saw to cut out around the border of the vent or fixture. Then finish fastening the sheet. Stagger seams in the drywall (do not create a 4 corner joint ), and always make sure that the seam between two sheets of drywall will fall in the center of a truss. Complete the entire ceiling of each room before installing drywall on the walls.

67 5. At some corners there won t be a stud to fasten the drywall to. Either install blocking or use drywall corner clips. If drywall corner clips are used make sure to install that sheet before the adjacent sheets. Position the clips on the drywall before lifting the sheet, the clips are difficult to insert while trying to hold a heavy sheet of drywall up in place. 6. Walls - Make sure that stud locations are noted, as well as any electrical switches or outlets. Install drywall horizontally, top piece first, tight to the ceiling drywall, then the bottom piece, tight to the top piece. Use a pair of drywall lifters to lift the bottom piece and hold it tight to the top piece while screwing it in to the studs. Use 4 screws on each stud for each sheet. For sheets which will cover a light switch or electrical outlet box, do not completely fasten the sheet. Using a router or keyhole saw, cut out around the perimeter of the light or outlet. (If routering the outside of the electric box router counterclockwise. Router the inside in a clockwise direction.) Then finish fastening the sheet. Stagger drywall seams (do not create a 4 corner joint ), and always make sure that the seam between two sheets of drywall falls in the center of a stud. In the interest of minimizing seams, plan seams in the middle of a door or window, but there should not be a seam at the edge of a door or window. 7. When hanging drywall at a door, be careful that the stud is not bowed. This is the last good chance to straighten that stud, since the drywall will hold that bow in place. 8. Clean up the house, removing all scraps, debris, etc. so that the drywall finishers can work. BUT don t sweep the floors clean the dust on the floors helps protect the floors from drywall mud, and will make cleaning up after the drywall is finished easier Float and Tape Drywall The Construction Supervisor will hire a professional drywall finisher to mud and tape the drywall. When the house is finished the House Leader will inspect the quality of the job and give the OK (or not) Cleanup - after Drywall Finish, before Painting The house will typically be a mess when the drywall is finished. Scrape waste mud off the floors, wipe down ceilings and walls, clean waste mud out of electrical boxes, clean window sills, clean the joint where the bathtub meets the drywall, etc., before moving on to painting. If at all possible floors and window sills should be swept clean and vacuumed before starting to paint. Also vacuum out the electrical boxes. A shop vacuum is worth its weight in gold for this job and will probably need to be emptied several times!

68 104. General Painting Tips The success of any paint job depends on how the surface is prepared before painting, using the correct paint, and how the paint is applied. A poor paint job can make even the best-built home look bad, and can result in the need for a lot of extra work sanding and repainting. Don t paint over poorly sanded or rough surfaces! You may think, no problem, we can sand later, but once a rough area has been painted sanding becomes very difficult. Modern paint finishes are very tough, and sanding them down in order to smooth the surface is a lot of work. Holes or imperfections in the drywall should be filled using spackle or drywall mud. Allow the repair to dry and sand smooth before painting. All bare wood or MDF (MDF is Medium Density Fiberboard - used for window wrap) must be primed before painting. MDF should be primed on ALL sides. Stir paint before using - pigment tends to settle on the bottom. Securely sealed containers can be rolled on the floor to mix. Stirring is very important, since paint is purchased in bulk, enough for several months. Don t assume the paint has just been stirred at the store! Use disposable liners for paint trays. Keep paint containers covered when not in use. Slightly dampen brushes and rollers before painting. Don t paint out of the paint can or bucket - pour into a clean container. Don t risk contaminating an entire gallon or 5-gallons of paint. Brushes, rollers, paint trays, etc. should be protected from drying out even during a short break. Wrap brushes and rollers with plastic wrap or a damp rag, and cover paint containers. Protect any finished flooring from paint spills. Pour paint over unfinished flooring or dirt. Protect the porch and other concrete surfaces from paint spills - paint is very difficult to remove from concrete. Pour paint over unfinished flooring or out in dirt areas in the yard. Every person painting should have a damp rag on hand for cleanup. Clean Up: Painting supplies, like brushes, rollers, roller handles, and trays, are not disposable. All should be cleaned thoroughly after each day of painting so that these supplies can be used again. Brush out excess paint on scrap material, like cardboard. The more paint removed from a brush or roller before washing the better it is for the sewer system. Scrape rollers into a container using a 5- in-1 tool to remove excess paint- it s amazing how much paint comes out. If the paint is good it can be saved and used later. Use warm water to clean brushes and rollers, not hot or cold. Or, use warm, soapy water, then rinse thoroughly. Run warm water over the brush, using a free hand to massage the bristles, or press the brush repeatedly against the sink bottom to force paint out. Use a brush comb or wire brush to remove dried paint that clings to the bristles. Rollers can be spun clean in the roller cleaner at the warehouse - get a demonstration. Do not store cleaned brushes with bristles down in a container - the bristles will curl. Store brushes to dry either hanging on nails or in a bucket with bristles up. Clean rollers should be stored on end to dry.

69 105. What paint goes where? All of the paints referred to in the table below are latex, or water-based paints. Type of Paint Interior Primer Exterior Primer Flat White Paint Wall Paint - Eggshell finish, Off-white Interior White Semi-Gloss Paint Exterior White Semi-Gloss Paint Exterior Semi-Gloss, (colored) Paint Where to use: All ceilings All walls All bare wood or MDF inside the house, like: door frames, closet supports, or window wrap (all sides) All bare wood installed outside the house, like: Wood trim under entry doors House number plaque Shed trim (all sides) All ceilings Attic access - casing frame & ceiling panel Walls Closet shelf supports Also be sure to paint all paintable caulk, like around the kitchen countertops and bathroom vanity Window trim, wrap, stool, apron, etc. Door trim Interior Doors (both sides) Inside of Exterior doors Baseboard Shoe mold Closet shelves Also - be sure to paint all paintable caulk Wood trim under entry doors House number plaque Shed trim Exterior door and trim (front door may not be white) Shed sheathing (to match house siding) Front door (color specified on the Design Worksheet)

70 106. Paint Walls and Ceilings 1. Stir primer or paint before using. 2. Use a roller with a long handle, and cut in with a brush where a roller can t reach, like in corners or around fixtures. 3. Paint tends to highlight flaws in the drywall finishing. Make repairs using spackle or drywall mud after the primer dries. 4. Paint ceilings first, with 1 coat of primer followed by a coat of flat white ceiling paint. Flat paint is used because it doesn t tend to highlight minor imperfections. Paint the top approx. ½ of the walls with ceiling paint to facilitate wall painting later. 5. Paint walls with 1 coat of primer followed by 1 or 2 coats (as needed) of eggshell wall paint. Don t paint too close to the ceiling stay approx. 3 down so that wall paint does not get on the ceiling. Also, stop approx. 1 from the floor so that dirt from the floor will not be picked up on the roller. Baseboard will cover this unpainted area at the floor line. Cut-in the ceiling line, corners or other areas where a roller can t reach with a brush or cut-in pad. Cut-in at the ceiling line takes a practiced hand - and really affects whether the overall painting job is good or bad, so it s best to leave cut-in to volunteers with lots of patience, a good eye, and a steady hand!

71 107. Install Underlayment for sheet vinyl flooring (*Not applicable for concrete slab construction) Install ¼ Luan underlayment over the plywood subfloor wherever vinyl flooring is planned. The luan is intended to provide a smooth surface for the vinyl, since imperfections in the surface under the thin vinyl tend to show through. Consult the plan documents to determine which areas will have vinyl - typically both entry doors, kitchen, dining, bath(s), laundry, and mechanical room. Do not install luan in any area that will be finished with either laminate flooring or carpeting. 1. Make sure the floor is scraped and swept clean, and nail down any protruding nails. Transfer stud markings to the wall or wall plates prior to laying luan and then back to the surface of the luan after it is laid. This makes it easier to locate studs later for installing baseboards and cabinets. 2. Measure the room and plan the layout: Luan should be installed perpendicular to the subfloor decking, and luan seams should not be lined up with the underlying seams in the subfloor. Avoid luan seams in high traffic areas Where there s a line between vinyl and carpet at a doorway the edge of the luan should be in the center of the actual door. That way when the door is closed the transition from vinyl to carpeting won t be visible from either side of the door; the transition will be hidden by the closed door. This means that a luan piece with an ear that extends into the doorway is required instead of a simple rectangular piece. Plan the layout so that there won t be a 4-corner joint; i.e., stagger seams for each row. Cut out openings for obstructions like pipes or HVAC vents. Luan does not have to be a tight fit to the walls of the room - drywall will extend ½ out from the walls, and baseboard and shoe will extend an additional Cut the luan to fit using table saw, circular saw, jig saw, etc. 4. Staple the luan to the subfloor with ⅝ or ¾ narrow crown staples, every 4 in the field and every 2 around the perimeter. (Luan may be marked with X s to show the nailing pattern). Make sure that the staples are not sticking up above the luan surface.

72 108. Trim Carpentry a Few Definitions Square - two components are called square when they form a 90 angle. Square is important where two walls join, or where a stud or jack meets the baseplate, as in a door rough opening, etc.. You d typically check for square with a carpenter s framing square. Plumb is a carpenter s term for vertical. A wall (or door) is plumb if as you face it the surface doesn t lean either towards you or away from you. You might check for plumb with a level, a carpenter s square, or a plumb bob - which is a weighted string. Level means exactly horizontal. You check for level with - a level! To check level, set a level on the surface being checked. If the bubble is centered between the lines in the sight glass you ll know that the component that the level is sitting on is level. Mitering - joining two pieces at a corner (baseboard, shoe mold, etc.) with each cut at approx. 45 deg. Typically miter all outside corners. Cut the mating pieces at 46 deg (the extra degree makes the joint easier to fit), and you can also achieve a little bit of ease for the joint by raising the pieces up with a pencil near the cut - this back cuts the joint by a little bit. Coping isn t just what you do when you re stressed to carpenters it s a 3-step process used to create a nice joint for an inside corner; in particular, a joint that doesn t tend to open up if the wood shrinks or moves. In a coped joint, the first piece of trim is cut square, to fit up to the wall it meets. The mating piece of trim is cut in a contoured shape to fit the square cut piece. The three steps for the coped piece are cut a 45 deg miter with the chop saw as if the corner is going to be mitered, then back cut the straight section of the excess away with the chop saw set at 5-10 deg, then back cut the final bits with a coping saw. Coping gives the appearance of two boards cut at 45 degrees, but only one of the boards has a special cut. Door Terms - the doors normally used are pre-hung, meaning a complete assembly that sets into the rough opening. Exterior doors are Flat Jamb - they set into place from the outside and already have the exterior brick-mold trim attached - the inside is finished with casing later. Interior doors are Split Jamb - an assembly that comes apart so that one piece has the door, already cased, and the other piece has only casing. Door Swing is referred to as left-hand or right-hand. If you place your back to where the hinges will be and the door swings right it s a right-hand door. Fortunately, we don t really have to know lefthand or right-hand - just make sure that the door you install opens the way it should according to the plan! Exterior (except shed), bedroom, bathroom, and laundry doors swing in. Closet doors (bedroom, linen, pantry, coat) swing out. The shed door swings out.

73 109. Install Interior Doors 1. Measure the rough opening and check the plan to insure that the proper sized door is being installed and that it will swing in the correct direction. The rough opening should be approximately 1½" to 2" wider and 1" to1½" higher than the door unit. Check the wall - is it vertical? If not, shim later between the door casing and the wall. 2. Set the Door into Place: Place the door in the room where the door will swing when opened. Remove packaging materials, including nails holding the door closed. Separate the two jamb halves. Use care to avoid twisting or damaging the mitered corners of the casing while separating the jambs. Set the jamb without the door aside until later (for a closet place the jamb inside the closet). With one person on each side of the rough opening, place the jamb half with the closed door attached tight against the rough framing on the hinge side. If the floor is bare subfloor, place the door on a spacer made of two luan shims. If underlayment (and/or vinyl) is already installed, set the unit on one luan shim. (NOTE: Installing a door requires checking plumb or gap, adjusting, shimming, then nailing - then repeat for each following nail. It is strongly suggested that the door be checked to make sure it is in the plane, vertical and square after every nail. A problem found using this method can be easily identified and corrected.) 3. Secure the Jamb on the Hinge Side: Use a 4 level along the hinge side jamb and adjust the door assembly to plumb (side-to-side). Arrange two overlapping shims so that the thickness is 1/8 and place the shims behind the hinge which is closest to the jack when the door is plumb. Nail through the jamb and 1/8 shims with 2 18 ga nails. Install overlapping shims (adjusted to fit the gap) behind the other two hinges, checking for plumb in both directions (side-to-side and in-out) before nailing each one. (Note: if the wall wasn t vertical and the door was in or out in the opening a shim will be needed behind the casing trim later.) 4. Adjust the Reveal: Check the horizontal gap, or reveal, between the top of the door and the top jamb. It should be uniform from left to right and approx. 1/8 wide. Adjust the reveal by pushing up the top casing, once adjusted nail through the latch-side casing into the jack, using a 2 18 ga nail. Check the vertical reveal between the door and latch side jamb - it should be approx. 1/8. Adjust by grabbing the casing and moving the jamb by hand. Open and close the door to check that its leading edge, the one that rests against the stop, clears the jamb by a consistent 1/8. Check that the door contacts the door stop from top to bottom. If necessary, shim between the casing and the wall (if the wall wasn t vertical). Set the latch side reveal by nailing with 2 18ga nails every 16 through the latch-side casing and into the jack. Make sure that the reveal remains consistent.

74 5. Secure the Jamb on the Latch Side: Insert overlapping shims between the jamb on the latch side and the jack, near the top of the door opening. When the shims are just touching the back of the jamb, without putting any pressure on it, nail through the jambs and shims with 2 18 ga nails. Nail additional pairs of shims a few inches above the base of this jamb, as well as just above and below the strike plate. It s important to shim around the strike plate to avoid jamb flex. 6. Finish Nailing the Casing: At this point, the reveals are set, the door works properly, and the jambs on both sides are secured. Nail the casing (top and sides) into the jacks or header approx. every 18 with 2 18 ga nails. 7. Attach the Split Jamb: Re-check the operation of the door one last time. Starting at the bottom, gently push the edge of the split jamb into the groove in the main jamb. Tap the two jambs together using both hands. Nail the casing to the wall on both sides of each miter, and approx. every 18 along the casing. To hold the two jambs together nail 18 ga nails through the stop and into the jacks, one nail at each hinge location, and on the latch side one nail at each location where the jamb was shimmed in step 5. DO NOT nail through the top jamb Install Mechanical &/or Laundry Bifold Doors 1. Rip 3 pieces of wood or MDF to 1 1/2 wide, long enough for the top and both sides of the door opening. Cut the 1 1/2 strips to length and miter the top corners. 2. Install the 1 1/2 strips flat against the top and sides of the door opening, nailing with 2 18 ga nails. These 1 1/2 strips will hide the track and gaps at the sides of the door, and create a base for installing casing trim. 3. Install the track for the doors behind the 1 1/2 strips, screwing the track up into the door header. 4. Install the floor brackets for the doors. 5. Hang the doors; adjust the floor brackets if needed. 6. Install the knobs in the center of the door panel as shown in the illustration. 7. Install casing around the door, mitering the corners Prime and Paint - before installation If time permits, it is desirable to complete some or all of the following before installation: Door Frames Prime and 1 st coat of white semi-gloss Doors 1 st coat of white semi-gloss 1x4 for Shelf Supports Prime Casing stock 1 st coat of white semi-gloss Baseboard stock 1 st coat of white semi-gloss Shoe Molding stock 1 st coat of white semi-gloss Shelf stock 1 st coat of white semi-gloss

75 112. Install Window Stool and Wrap Note: The sill is the rough framing, the stool is the finished wood at the bottom of the window opening. 1. A stool, a top, and two sides are needed for each window. 2. The stool blanks are made from 1x8 poplar. Cut the stock to length; the size of the rough opening + 6, then use a ¾ roundover bit to roundover one long and 2 short sides with a router. Plan ahead - the rounded side will be installed facing up (the good side), so this should be the best side of the wood. 3. Measure the depth of each window (top and both sides). Rip ¾ MDF on a table saw to the correct width for the top and both sides of each window. 4. Measure the actual window opening and depth at the sill. Use a jig saw to cut away the inside corners of the stool blank, forming the ears which will extend beyond the rough opening to support the side casing. Make sure that the stool fits inside the window opening, and that the ears are even on the two sides. Even as compared with the window itself, not the rough opening. 5. Set the stool in place, and use shims to level the stool both side-to-side and front-to-back. Install the stool with 2 18 ga nails. 6. Measure across the top of the window opening, and cut the MDF to length for the top. Make sure that the top is level, both side-to-side and front-to-back. Shim as needed, and nail with 2 18 ga nails. 7. Measure the height of the opening for the sides, cut to length, shim to equalize the reveals on both sides of the window, and nail with 2 18 ga nails. 8. Sand the edges of the top and side window wrap, rounding the sharp edges slightly. A very sharp edge doesn t hold paint well.

76 113. Install Window Casing - Top, Sides, Apron Note: Drywall is not shown in these figures. 1. Mark the reveal around the top and sides of the window - this is a line ¼ in from the inside edge of the MDF wrap. 2. Measure the top window opening and add 5 ; this will be the length of the long side of the top piece of casing. Cut the casing to length with both ends mitered. Install this top piece of casing along the reveal line; secure with 2 18 ga nails. 3. Measure the height from the top of the stool to the top of the casing; make one left and one right mitered piece of casing approx. 1 longer than this measurement. 4. Set the casing in place but upside down and mark the finished length for each side. Cut the sides to final length, then secure the casing in place (right side up!) with 2 18 ga nails. 5. The final piece of window trim is the apron. The overall length for the apron is the measurement across from the outside of the two casing side pieces. The ends should be mitered at 10 deg, (with the fat side of the casing being the long side of the miter). Install the apron centered on the window, with the fat side up. Nail the apron with 2 18 ga nails.

77 114. Make, Paint, & Insulate the Attic Access Panel The attic access is typically one truss bay wide (22 ½ ) by 30. Measure the actual rough opening and make a frame with mitered corners out of casing that will extend into the attic access opening ½ all around. This casing frame will finish the rough opening and form a lip for the ceiling panel to sit on. Secure the attic access frame to the framing around the rough opening with 2 18 ga nails. Cut the ceiling panel (preferably out of ½ MDF) slightly smaller than the rough opening, and attach (2) 2 thick pieces of Styrofoam, cut to fit, to the top side of the panel with caulk. Set the insulated ceiling panel into place (Styrofoam up!) in the casing frame. NOTE: The view side of the ceiling panel should be primed, and both the casing frame and the panel should be painted with flat white ceiling paint - flat paint will help the entire assembly blend in with the ceiling and visually disappear Install Baseboard 1. Baseboard is installed two luan shims above the subfloor (approx. 3/8 ) (if luan or luan and vinyl have already been installed that counts as one shim, so the baseboard is installed using only one luan shim.) 2. Nail baseboard into the studs, which are marked on the floor (if not, use a stud finder). Use (2) 2 18 ga nails per stud. Do not nail too near the floor, as that may cause the baseboard to roll outward away from the wall at the top. 3. Outside corners will be mitered; set the chop saw to 46 deg. 4. Inside corners will be coped. ( Coped means that the first piece installed is cut square, and the adjoining piece is contoured to fit the first piece. It s best to have someone demonstrate coping.) Plan the work so that only one end must be coped- getting a piece with both ends coped to fit exactly is difficult! 5. If two pieces of baseboard must be spliced for a long wall (overlapped at a 45 deg angle) try to plan so that the splice: Is in an unobtrusive spot Lands in the center of a stud Overlaps with the top piece towards the most visible sight line - in other words, when viewed from the most likely view point, the closest piece of the splice should be on top, and the farthest piece of the splice will dive under. The result is a less noticeable joint. 6. Do not install baseboard behind the stove or around the bathroom vanities Install Vinyl &/or Laminate Flooring The Construction Supervisor will schedule the installation of vinyl or laminate flooring. Once installed, the finished flooring should be protected. Clean the floors and then use blue sticky plastic to protect vinyl floors and brown paper (tape the edges of the brown paper together, DO NOT tape to the flooring!) to protect laminate flooring.

78 117. Install Closet Shelf Supports Refer to Appendix F. Bedroom, laundry, and coat closet shelves (where there will be a hanging rod) should be supported by 1x4 s. Pantry and linen closet shelves can be supported by 1x2 s (rip 1x4 in half). Closet supports should be installed as shown in the table below; nail into studs or blocking with 2 18 ga nails. Center supports are an 8 long piece of 1x4 beveled at the lower end. Nail this support (bevel down and out) into the centermost stud on the back wall of the closet - the hanging rod bracket or shelf bracket will be installed on top of this beveled 1x4. (If there isn t a stud near the center of a bedroom closet install 2 center supports, which will require an extra rod bracket later.) Note another choice of material for closet supports is MDF sometimes there is scrap material available which is suitable for this application. Note: Shelf and center supports should be primed and then painted with wall paint Caulk/spackle Trim - doors, windows, baseboard, etc. All nail holes should be filled with spackle. Wipe or sand the spackle after it has dried but prior to painting. All joints/seams should be neatly caulked with paintable caulk. Smooth caulk immediately, before it sets. Caulking is an art - it s best to have someone who s talented do this job to avoid a smeary mess. Note: Be sure and use the right type of caulk silicone caulk, which is used for installing windows, cannot be painted; the paint just won t adhere to the silicone. However, some paintable caulks are siliconized, meaning that they have some silicone for durability. If paintable caulk is required make sure that the caulk used is clearly labeled as paintable. Also, use white paintable caulk, not clear because it s difficult to tell what s been caulked and what hasn t with the clear caulk, and it tends to get missed when painting Electrical Trim Out The Construction Supervisor will schedule the electrical crew to install the plugs, switches, lights, and other final electrical items Electrical Inspection/ Permanent Power hook up The Construction Supervisor will schedule these tasks Remove Temporary Electrical Pole The temporary electrical pole can be removed once permanent power has been hooked up to the house. The pole should be saved for use at a future house Insulate Light Switches and Receptacles (recommended) A surprising (and unwelcome) amount of cold air can come into the house through light switch and outlet electrical boxes. To seal, remove cover, insert a purchased foam gasket, and reinstall the cover.

79 123. Install Bathroom Vanity Purchased vanities are pre-finished, come with hardware, and have two doors. Set the vanity in place. Place the sink/counter on top of the vanity. Screw the vanity cabinet into the studs or blocking in the wall (use a stud finder). NOTE: If the walls where the vanity is installed are badly out of square it may be necessary to cut into the drywall to install the vanity top without an unsightly gap. Install the sink/vanity top to the vanity base cabinet with silicone caulk as an adhesive. Caulk the vanity top to the walls with paintable caulk, and be sure to paint this caulk with wall paint once the caulk has set. Install shoe mold around the base of the vanity. If there is a gap between the vanity and the wall a piece of shoe mold can be installed vertically to conceal the gap.

80 124. Install Bath Hardware Toothbrush holder, soap holder, towel bar, towel ring, robe hook, toilet paper, medicine cabinet Refer to the table in Appendix F for location of the bath hardware. Use a stud finder to locate blocking and a tiny screwdriver to adjust the set screws. One caution - if blocking can t be located it may be necessary to use drywall anchors, but don t use the standard anchors that are supplied with the hardware. Use 30# or 50# Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors (one brand name is E-Z Anchor). E-Z Anchors come with #8 x 1 ¼ screws, but if the hardware being installed is very thin (like most bathroom fixture installation plates) these screws will bottom out in the anchor. Use a shorter screw (#8 x ¾ should work), or slice off the bottom end of the anchor so that the long screw can poke through Install Grab Bars (if required) If grab bars are required they should be installed at approx. 36 from the floor, into solid blocking. Grab bars are typically installed around the tub and toilet Install Kitchen Cabinets and Countertops Note: It s a good idea to complete installation of the trim and painting of the kitchen window before the cabinets are installed it s difficult to reach the window over the base cabinets. Kitchen cabinets and countertops are typically installed by the Trim Crew. They appreciate square walls and adequate blocking!

81 127. Install the Range Backsplash The range backsplash, a flat piece of painted aluminum, is installed with drywall screws on the wall behind and above the range. The two upper screws will be hidden by the range hood, and the lower screws will be behind the range Install the Range Hood The range hood is typically installed by the HVAC subcontractor or Electrical crew Caulk Kitchen Countertop & Paint Caulk Caulk the top and ends of the backsplash with paintable caulk, then paint the caulk carefully and neatly with wall paint. It s important to paint the caulk - unpainted caulk tends to look grimy over time Install Closet Shelves - bedroom, coat, linen, pantry Cut shelves to length (slightly shorter than the opening, and they may need to be tapered if the walls are badly out of square). Paint shelves with two coats of white semi-gloss paint Install Shower Curtain Rod Adjust the shower curtain rod to length and install Install Plastic Shoe Mold at tub and entry doors Install plastic shoe mold along the tub and under both entry doors. Use silicone caulk to adhere the shoe to the floor (and tub or wall), and then secure the shoe mold with 18 ga nails into the floor. *For concrete slab construction: the plastic shoe will just be held in place by the silicone. Allow the caulk to cure completely, then cut away the excess which squeezed out. Fill nail holes, but do not paint the plastic shoe or silicone caulk.

82 133. Install Shoe Mold in areas with vinyl or laminate Shoe mold is installed in all vinyl areas. Shoe mold may also be needed with laminate flooring. Miter the outside corners and cope inside corners when installing shoe mold. Install shoe mold on the floor (not raised up on shims), and secure into the floor with 18 ga nails. *For concrete slab construction: nail the shoe into the baseboard. Install shoe mold around the vanity for a finished look. Where should the shoe mold end when the adjacent room does not require shoe mold? Typically, feel for the edge of the luan and stop the shoe mold approx. 1 back towards the vinyl area - this will allow room for the carpet/vinyl transition piece. The end of this piece of shoe mold should be beveled for a finished look Caulk/fill Shoe Mold Fill nail holes with spackle and caulk seams with paintable caulk. All spackle should be wiped or sanded smooth prior to painting Prime all Bare Wood Trim Prime all bare wood before painting - window wrap, window stools, door frames, etc Paint Trim Paint trim - baseboard, casing, closet shelves, etc. - with two coats of white Interior Semi-gloss paint. Make sure that all nail holes or defects have been filled, seams have been caulked, and that any rough surfaces have been sanded smooth prior to painting Paint Interior Doors Paint interior doors (both sides and both edges!) with 1-2 coats of white interior semi-gloss paint. Sand door edges before painting. Don t get paint on the hinges or hardware - it ll have to be cleaned up later. The doors have a faux wood grain; be sure to jab paint down into the grain to get good coverage, and be vigilant for drips and runs Paint Exterior Doors Paint the inside of exterior doors with white exterior semi-gloss paint. Paint the outside of exterior doors with exterior semi-gloss paint in the partner family s chosen color. Check the plan documents for the correct color. Painting is difficult in cold weather - install an old door temporarily so that the real door can be painted in a heated area.

83 139. Install Interior Door Knobs Privacy knobs are turning and lockable Passage knobs are turning, but don t lock Dummy knobs don t turn, they re just planted on the door. Install on bedroom and bathroom doors. Make sure that the knob and lock function, and leave the key on top of the casing on the outside of the door. Install on the doors to the coat closet, pantry, and linen closet. Make sure that the knob functions. Install on all bedroom closet doors. Install on the shed door Install Door Stops Door stops are required for all doors to prevent damage to the door or adjacent wall. Two types of door stops are used - one style mounts on the baseboard, and the other mounts on the door hinge. Where possible, install a baseboard style door stop. Make sure the doorstop will do the job, then remove it and stash it away safely - door stops get in the way when carpet is laid. Complete the final installation of the door stops after the carpeting has been installed Install the Peep Hole in the front door Drill a hole in the door, approx. 60 from the floor, and install the peep hole. (A tall person can always bend down to look out, but it s not very convenient for a short person to have to hunt up a stool!) 142. Install Mini-Blinds Install mini-blinds in each bedroom and bathroom. Mini-blinds are standard for each bedroom and bathroom. Additional mini-blinds may be purchased by the partner family and can be installed if available Install Closet Rods Cut closet rods to length and install in bedroom and coat closets Install Mailbox The mailbox is usually installed adjacent to the front door, but if there s not room there find a good location. There will be an outswing security storm door installed over the front door, so take that into consideration when placing the mailbox. Note: Some neighborhoods may require a street mailbox; refer to the plan documents.

84 145. Plumbing Trim out/ Plumbing Inspection The Construction Supervisor will schedule the final plumbing work and inspections 146. HVAC Trim out The Construction Supervisor will schedule the final HVAC work and inspections Install Hand Rail for Entry Stairs Any entry which has more than two steps above grade requires a hand rail. The hand rail is installed such that the top of the railing is 36 above the nose of each step 148. Form/pour Pad for shed The pad for the shed is a 6 x 8 concrete pad, formed and poured by the Framers. The Construction Supervisor will determine the location of the shed pad Form/pour Sidewalks, Air Conditioner Pad (& Patio if needed) Refer to the plan documents for all concrete flat work Remove Concrete Forms Once the concrete has cured the forms can be removed and any rebar holding the forms can be pulled out to eliminate tripping hazards. Save these forms and return them to the Construction Center for future use.

85 151. Install Porch Rails and Posts Brick: Brick porches are an option for the Partner Family, and are installed by a subcontractor. Before the subcontractor can install the brick porch the porch beams should be wrapped with white metal and the temporary porch posts should be positioned so that they will not interfere with the brick pillars. White Vinyl: The standard porch installation is white vinyl; posts are pressure treated 4x4 s covered with a white vinyl sleeve and the rails and balusters are ordered as a package. Use special care when locating and installing the required posts - properly positioned posts, plumb and square, will make the installation of the porch package much easier. If the plans call for Turned Posts refer to Appendix H or the instructions included with the posts for installation. 1. Install a full length corner post first, making sure to allow space for any trim pieces at the top and bottom. As shown in the sketch above, mark the center of the corner beams. 2. Drop a plumb bob from the marked point to the porch, mark this point. This will be the center of the bottom bracket. 3. Install the bottom bracket with concrete fasteners, like Tapcon screws. The bracket should be carefully centered on the marks and correctly oriented. 4. Measure from the top bracket to the bottom bracket and cut the 4x4 to length. 5. Cut the vinyl sleeve to length, slightly shorter than the 4x4. (The vinyl sleeve cannot bear the weight.) Install a screw (supplied) into the center of one end of the 4x4 - leave the screw sticking up approx. 1/8 so that it will fit into the bracket when the post is set into place. 6. Slide the vinyl sleeve over the 4x4. Jack up the porch beams slightly to slide the post assembly in, inserting the screw bracket. Make sure the post is square, and lower the porch beams down so that the weight of the porch beams and roof are now supported by the vinyl clad 4x4. 7. Install trim around the post at the top and bottom. 8. The next post will likely be at the top of the stairs, and may be either full height or half height - check the plans. Locate the base of this post, typically at the top of the stairs. Measure out from the house to the first post installed, and then measure out this same distance for the second post. Set the base at this distance out from the house, and such that the face of the post closest to the stairs will be in line with the edge of the stairs.

86 9. A full length intermediate post is installed much like steps 1-8, except locate the center of the bottom bracket and use the plumb bob to transfer that location to the porch beam overhead. For a half height post install a special post support, which is a base with a supporting rod built in. Align the post support carefully and install with Tapcon screws. 10. Slide the vinyl sleeve over the post support. The vinyl sleeve should be the correct height (supplied as a kit). (The cap will be installed later.) 11. Install additional full or half height posts on the porch as required by the plans. 12. Install the post at the bottom of the stairs, set into concrete. Dig a hole 18 deep at the base of the stairs, in line with the top post, where the bottom post will go. Leave the 4x4 long, and insert it into the hole. Using a post leveler, make sure that the post is plumb in both directions. Pour a bag of (dry) concrete into the hole, adding water and tamping as the post hole is filled. Brace the pole in both directions perfectly upright. The post will need to set at least overnight - try to keep people from using the post (and disturbing the plumbness!) in the meantime. 13. Once the posts are up and set railings can be installed. Railings are installed with a flange which is contoured to fit the top and bottom railing sections. The flanges are specific for top, bottom, and for railings which are straight across or slanted (like down the stairs). The required flanges should be in the package, but there are additional parts at the Construction Center. Also, for the railings which attach to the wall, custom fit a flange which is contoured to the profile of the siding. See the photos below, and refer to the instructions which are included in the package for installation. (A copy of the instructions is included in this manual as Appendix H) 14. Complete the porch installation by installing trim &/or caps for posts. 15. Be really careful when cutting railings so that the space on each end is the same, if possible, and don t cut where a rail must go.