You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

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Dominic McDaniel
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Jeff Branch WOODWORKING You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase Heavy moldings bring this project to life. By JEFF BRANCH I am drawn to architecture.

1 Jeff Branch WOODWORKING You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase Heavy moldings bring this project to life. By JEFF BRANCH I am drawn to architecture. In particular, I like the orderly nature of Palladian architecture. Columns with a heavy base catch my eye most often, and it is the shape of a column which has influenced my furniture design frequently when designing vertical pieces like bookcases. In the illustration to the right, you can loosely see the outline of a column: the lower section forms the base and the upper section which is more narrow could be considered the column itself with the heavy crown molding forming the cap. This design was also influenced by a bookcase, or book press as it was called, designed for William Blathwyat and built in 1695 (see it by clicking here). I could not bring myself to draw such a short lower case, so in my design the lower case is larger and I have removed the glass doors. If you have experience building glass doors, they certainly would be a striking addition to the project. Since I am not a carver, for this design the ornate moldings on the Blathwyat piece have been replaced with layered moldings, which hopefully take the place of the carvings visually. This bookcase, which stands seven feet tall, was designed with easy construction techniques in mind. Simple boxes provide the back bone for the upper and lower sections. The sides and cross members of these boxes are joined together utilizing simple dado joinery. The back enhances the vertical feel of the piece by being simple slats nailed in place. The shelves in the upper cabinet are adjustable. The moldings utilized to dress up the piece are all fabricated using readily available router bits. Another nice feature is the bun feet which can be ordered via the internet. About the only difficult part of this project is it becomes large as it comes to life. But the bookcase is broken into two sections which, again, makes construction as simple as possible. I hope you enjoy this project!

Orthographic Views 34 10 3/4 29 3/4 40 13 38 1/2 34 12 1/4 2 1/4 The bookcase is designed so large books can be stored in the lower cabinet with smaller items going above.

2 Orthographic Views /4 29 3/ / /4 2 1/4 The bookcase is designed so large books can be stored in the lower cabinet with smaller items going above. The width of the lower cabinet helps ground the piece, being slightly wider than the upper cabinet. Bun feet give some lift to the bookcase positioning it almost 4 1/2 above the floor. Note that the slats for both cabinets align with each other. A multi-layer crown molding caps off the top. 2 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

3 Molding Profiles Crown Molding Waist Molding AG,AH AD,AE AK,AL AJ,AI Lower Cabinet Base Molding AM,AN AO,AP Lower Cabinet Cove Molding P,Q R,S T,U Each block equals one inch. 3 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

4 Cut List Lower Cabinet A 2 Cabinet Sides 20 1/2 x 11 1/2 x 3/4 B 2 Cabinet Cross Members 37 3/4 x 10 5/8 x 3/4 C 2 Cabinet Face Frame Stiles 20 1/2 x 2 1/4 x 3/4 D 1 Cabinet Face Frame Upper Rail 34 x 1 3/4 x 3/4 E 1 Cabinet Face Frame Lower Rail 34 x 2 x 3/4 F 1 Base Panel 40 1/2 x 12 1/2 x 3/4 G 2 Base Panel Edging Sides 14 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 H 2 Base Panel Edging Front/Back 42 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 I 4 Foot Spacers 3 x 3 x 3/4 J 4 Colonial Bun Feet Medium 5 11/32 x 3 27/64 x 3 27/64 K 1 Base Cabinet Top 38 1/2 x 13 x 3/4 L 2 Bread Board Ends 13 x 1 5/8 x 3/4 M 4 Top Spacers 2 x 2 x 3/4 N 9 Back Slats 20 1/2 x 4 1/16 x 3/4 O 8 Splines 20 1/2 x 3/4 x 1/4 P 1 Base Molding A Front 40 x 4 x 3/4 Q 2 Base Molding A Side 13 x 4 x 3/4 R 1 Base Molding B Front 41 1/2 x 3 1/8 x 3/4 S 2 Base Molding B Side 13 3/4 x 3 1/8 x 3/4 T 1 Cove Molding Front 39 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 U 2 Cove Molding Side 12 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/2 Upper Cabinet V 2 Cabinet Sides 55 1/2 x 10 x 3/4 W 2 Cross Members 33 1/4 x 9 1/8 x 3/4 X 2 Face Frame Stiles 55 1/2 x 2 1/8 x 3/4 Y 1 Face Frame Lower Rail 29 3/4 x 4 1/4 x 3/4 Z 1 Face Frame Upper Rail 29 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 3/4 AA 2 Outer Back Slats 55 1/2 x 1 13/16 x 3/4 AB 7 Inner Back Slats 55 1/2 x 4 1/16 x 3/4 AC 8 Splines 55 1/2 x 3/4 x 1/4 AD 1 Crown Frame Front 38 1/4 x 2 7/8 x 3/4 AE 2 Crown Frame Sides 12 7/8 x 2 7/8 x 3/4 AF 1 Crown Frame Back 32 1/2 x 2 7/8 x 3/4 AG 1 Crown Molding 1 Front 40 x 2 3/4 x 3/4 AJ 2 Crown Molding 2 Sides 12 1/4 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 AK 1 Crown Molding 3 Front 35 1/2 x 3/4 x 3/4 AL 2 Crown Molding 3 Sides 11 1/2 x 3/4 x 3/4 AM 1 Waist Molding 1 Front 35 1/2 x 3 x 3/4 AN 2 Waist Molding 1 Sides 11 1/2 x 3 x 3/4 AO 1 Waist Molding 2 Front 36 x 2 1/8 x 1/4 AP 2 Waist Molding 2 Sides 11 3/4 x 2 1/8 x 1/4 AQ 2 Back Braces 9 1/2 x 3 x 3/4 AR 4 Shelves 32 1/2 x 9 1/8 x 3/4 Notes The feet for the Architectural Bookcase are from Classic Designs by Matthew Burak ( The style selected for this project is the Medium Colonial Bun Feet (see them by clicking here). They are available in a variety of wood species. If you would like to create your own feet, the deminsions are shown here. The project will require board feet of lumber. In addition, I used a variety of 1/4 dowels. A couple of sticks should do the job. You will need connector bolts and threaded inserts to attach the crown molding frame to the upper case. See the links on page 11 to order them. It is often easier to sand components prior to glue-up. While I don t discuss this specifically as the bookcase takes shape, it is my recommendation that all parts be sanded prior to glue-up. Read through this plan and fully understand the process prior to construction. If you have any questions about a particular step, feel free to me at jobranch@yahoo.com. Safety Be sure to understand and practice safe workshop proceedures. Never become complacent with your tools. Wear eye protection and protect yourself from loud noise and fine dust. AH 1 Crown Molding 1 Sides 13 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 3/4 AI 1 Crown Molding 2 Front 37 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 4 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Step 1 - Create the Lower Cabinet Lets get started by building the basic box which forms the skeleton for

A B Glue the cross members into the dados making sure the case is square.

D C 5c C 3 1/4 E Join the rails to the stiles using pocket screws.

5 Step 1 - Create the Lower Cabinet Lets get started by building the basic box which forms the skeleton for the lower cabinet. 5a 3/4 Glue up boards to create panels for the sides and the cross members. Form a 3/4 by 3/8 deep dado as shown. Also, form a 7/8 wide by 3/8 deep rabbet along the inside back edge of the sides. A B Glue the cross members into the dados making sure the case is square. 5b A 4 1/2 Attach the completed face frame to the base cabinet with glue and clamps. D C 5c C 3 1/4 E Join the rails to the stiles using pocket screws. See this being done on a different project by clicking here. Utilizing the cut list, cut the components for the face frame to size. I like to make the stiles, parts C about a 1/16 wider and then trim them to final width after the face frame is glued to the case. 5 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Step 2 - Add the Feet The feet are part of a base assembly which adds a nice look to the overall design. The base starts out as a simple piece of plywood which is wrapped with wood.

Cut 45 miters to the ends of parts G and H. Then simply glue them in place flush with the top edge of part F.

Confirm the width and length of the tenon found on the bun feet and drill a hole centered 7/8 in from the corresponding corner of the foot spacer as shown in the illustration 6c.

6 Step 2 - Add the Feet The feet are part of a base assembly which adds a nice look to the overall design. The base starts out as a simple piece of plywood which is wrapped with wood. Blocks are then added to the base from underneath. Holes are drilled for the feet which are glued in place. 6a Using the cut list, form the needed components. Cut 45 miters to the ends of parts G and H. Then simply glue them in place flush with the top edge of part F. G H F 2 1/8 4 G I H To see a full size drawing of the bun feet, click here. J Close-up Foot Spacer 6b Add a foot spacer, part I to each corner with glue and clamps. Confirm the width and length of the tenon found on the bun feet and drill a hole centered 7/8 in from the corresponding corner of the foot spacer as shown in the illustration 6c. Next, simply glue the bun feet in place. I 7/8 7/8 Finish the assembly by drilling four elongated pilot holes in part F. These holes are 2 1/8 in from the ends and 4 in from the front and back edge of part F (their locations are indicated by the red arrows). 6c 6 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Step 3 - Create the Top The last step of the foot assembly is to attach it to the lower case with four wood screws via pilot holes (see the pilot holes on page six).

7a Begin work on the top by cutting the components to size. Form the bread board ends following the directions shown below.

M K Elongate these holes for both tongues. Drill pilot holes as indicated by the red arrows. Extend the holes through parts M and B and screw the top in place from underneath.

1 Temporarily clamp the bread board ends in place and drill 1/4 holes which will receive dowels. Note the location of the outer dowel holes as shown in illustration 7c.

7 Step 3 - Create the Top The last step of the foot assembly is to attach it to the lower case with four wood screws via pilot holes (see the pilot holes on page six). Lay the case and the foot assembly on their backs, flush with each other, and center the foot assembly left to right with the case. Then drive the screws home. 7a Begin work on the top by cutting the components to size. Form the bread board ends following the directions shown below. Next attach the completed table top following the directions shown in 7B. L 1/4 dowel Center the completed table top left to right on the base cabinet, flush at the back. M K Elongate these holes for both tongues. Drill pilot holes as indicated by the red arrows. Extend the holes through parts M and B and screw the top in place from underneath. B L 7b 7/16 Making the bread board ends Form a 7/8 by 1/4 thick tongue on each end of the top, part K. Then create a corresponding slot in each bread board end, parts L. 1 Temporarily clamp the bread board ends in place and drill 1/4 holes which will receive dowels. Note the location of the outer dowel holes as shown in illustration 7c. The middle hole is centered along the width of the top. 7c 7/8 1/4 Remove the bread board ends. Spread glue only in the area two inches to either side of the center hole. Slide the bread board ends into place, add a small amount of glue to the holes and tap the dowels in place. Trim flush and sand as needed. 7 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Step 4 - Add the Back and Moldings The back begins by forming the nine back slats, parts N and eight splines, parts O.

Attach the slats to the case cross members, parts B, with nails (see the cross members on page four).

Using the cut list as a guide, form the moldings. Cut the 45 miters while fitting the moldings to the case.

8 Step 4 - Add the Back and Moldings The back begins by forming the nine back slats, parts N and eight splines, parts O. Next form slots on each slat as shown in illustration 7b. The splines simply float in their slots. Attach the slats to the case cross members, parts B, with nails (see the cross members on page four). 1/8 1/4 3/8 8a 8b Construction of the lower case concludes with the installation of it s moldings. See the molding profiles on page three. Using the cut list as a guide, form the moldings. Cut the 45 miters while fitting the moldings to the case. Add the first layer of base moldings, parts P and Q. Then add the outer layer, parts R and S. Attach them to the case with brads Je f f Bra nch Finish the moldings by adding the top moldings, parts T and U in the same fashion. 8c 8 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

While we won t make feet, we will create a handsome crown molding for the top. Let s get started... 9a Begin work on the upper cabinet by creating the side panels, parts V.

9 Step 5 - Create the Upper Cabinet With the lower cabinet completed its time to turn our attention to the upper cabinet. Construction of the upper cabinet is similar to the process used with the lower cabinet. The main difference is we ll drill a series of holes in the inside face of the side panels for shelf supports. While we won t make feet, we will create a handsome crown molding for the top. Let s get started... 9a Begin work on the upper cabinet by creating the side panels, parts V. First cut the side panels to final width and length. V Next cut a 7/8 by 3/8 deep rabbet along the inside rear edge of the side. This rabbet will form the recess for the back slats. Cut 3/4 by 3/8 deep dadoes which will house the upper and lower cross members. Finally, drill 1/4 holes 3/8 deep on the inside of the panels as shown. The holes are positioned 1 1/4 in from each interior edge and are spaced 1 1/2 apart. I use a home made jig for this, but you can buy templates on line. To see the home made process on a different project, click here. 9b 9 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Create the Upper Cabinet Just as with the base cabinet, join the sides with the cross members, parts W utilizing the dados and glue. Clamp making sure the case is square.

2012 10a nc Jeff Bra h Join the face frame components with pocket screws and glue. Lets add the back the process is the same as creating the back for the lower cabinet.

10 Create the Upper Cabinet Just as with the base cabinet, join the sides with the cross members, parts W utilizing the dados and glue. Clamp making sure the case is square. Cut the face frame components to size and join together with pocket screws and glue. Add the completed face frame to the upper case with glue; clamp and allow to dry a nc Jeff Bra h Join the face frame components with pocket screws and glue. Lets add the back the process is the same as creating the back for the lower cabinet. The only difference is the outer slats, parts AA, are a different size. This enables the back slats in the lower and upper cabinets to align with each other. Using the cut list, create the components. Next, center a 1/4 wide by 3/8 deep slot on the back slats, parts AA and AB as shown (also, see the close-up on page 8, illustration 8b). The splines, parts AC, slip into the slots and float, no glue. Attach the back slats to both cross members, parts W with nails. 10b 10 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Step 6 - Add the Crown Molding Connector bolts enter through elongated holes. Order them here. AF Hex drive threaded insert placed 3/4 in from the rabbet and centered.

11a The crown molding begins by making a frame which subsequent layers of molding can be attached to. Using the cut list, cut the components to size.

The frame should be aligned flush with the side panels and centered along the width of the upper case. Transfer the location of the inserts to the completed frame.

11 Step 6 - Add the Crown Molding Connector bolts enter through elongated holes. Order them here. AF Hex drive threaded insert placed 3/4 in from the rabbet and centered. AE AE AD Hex drive threaded insert placed 3/4 in from the panel edge and centered. Order them here. 11a The crown molding begins by making a frame which subsequent layers of molding can be attached to. Using the cut list, cut the components to size. Create 45 miters as shown and join the components using biscuits. Mark the location of the hex drive threaded inserts on the side panels. The frame should be aligned flush with the side panels and centered along the width of the upper case. Transfer the location of the inserts to the completed frame. Drill holes, add hex drive threaded inserts and attach the crown frame using connector bolts. AH 1 AH AG #10 Biscuit 11b Following the cut list, cut parts AG and AH. Cut these parts a little long, form the molded profile as shown on page three, and then cut to final length. Add 45 miters as shown. These boards are joined to each other using biscuits. Cut the biscuit slots and glue the components together. Position the moldings 1 in from the molding frame as shown and flush at the back. Nail and glue in place. 11 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Both layers are glued and nailed to the crown frame constructed in 11a (due to cross grain concerns, no glue on the case sides).

12 Add the Crown Molding AJ AI AL AK 12a The two remaining layers of molding are formed the same way as shown in illustration 11b. This time, instead of biscuits, we will simply nail the moldings in place. Note the molding profiles on page three. Both layers are glued and nailed to the crown frame constructed in 11a (due to cross grain concerns, no glue on the case sides). The gold layer is added first and the blue layer is then attached to the gold layer. 12b This cornice molding design is one I have used, with slight modifications, on two other projects: my entertainment center (see it here) and the crown molding for my dining room (see it here). This design is based on an awesome breakfront featured in an old issue of Fine Woodworking magazine (see it here). 12 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Step 7 - Add the Waist Molding AN AM AO 13a AP The waist moldings are next which are two layers; again,

Attach the side moldings with nails and the front moldings with nails and glue.

13b The upper and lower cabinets are held in place with braces. Note their size in the cut list.

13 Step 7 - Add the Waist Molding AN AM AO 13a AP The waist moldings are next which are two layers; again, see the profile on page three and note that parts AN and AO are 1/4 thick. Attach the side moldings with nails and the front moldings with nails and glue. Back slats have been removed for illustrative clarity. AQ Form a 3/4 by 1/8 deep notch. 13b The upper and lower cabinets are held in place with braces. Note their size in the cut list. I thought clipping the corners added a nice look. Attach them with screws driven through the rear slats into the case cross members. 13 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

Step 8 - Final Construction Assembly concludes with the creation of four adjustable shelves, parts AQ. Cut these to size following the dimensions shown in the cut list.

14 Step 8 - Final Construction Assembly concludes with the creation of four adjustable shelves, parts AQ. Cut these to size following the dimensions shown in the cut list. They rest on 1/4 dowels inserted into the holes shown in illustration 9b. With this step completed, the bookcase is finished. AR In preparation for finish, you should repair any imperfections to the wood surface and sand to 220 grit. Apply the finish that is appropriate for the type of wood used. Jeff Branch has been woodworking for about 30 years from his home in Pelham, Alabama. In addition to woodworking, Jeff has an interest in graphic design and operates a blog at 14a Jeff Branch WOODWORKING 2012 by Jeff Branch. Project design, plan illustration, page layout and text by Jeff Branch. See my other project plans by visiting 14 You Can Build an Architectural Bookcase

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