Gambling queen. This tournament-sized backgammon. I PROJECT Backgammon table

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I PROJECT Backgammon table BY DUNCAN ROSE Gambling queen This commission was placed by a customer who knew exactly what he wanted in appearance,

Tournament backgammon is played using large chequers, typically between 38 and 51mm in diameter.

These days the chequers are usually made from plastic, but wooden pieces turned from ebony and satinwood are much more elegant and pleasant to use.

central bar. The tray lid slides to one side to open. This gives both players equal access to the contents.

External catches and hinges are avoided to prevent dice catching them in play.

1 I PROJECT Backgammon table BY DUNCAN ROSE Gambling queen This commission was placed by a customer who knew exactly what he wanted in appearance, dimensions, functionality and style; a backgammon table on folding legs with a light coloured, deep frame, attractive mitre joints and decent-sized chequers! This tournament-sized backgammon table is made with folding legs, in the same style as the card tables used on the QE2, the famous old ocean liner. Tournament backgammon is played using large chequers, typically between 38 and 51mm in diameter. When the playing surface is scaled up to match these, you fi nd you are playing on a large table area. These days the chequers are usually made from plastic, but wooden pieces turned from ebony and satinwood are much more elegant and pleasant to use. Design features The playing boards are recessed within the frame, and the storage tray that holds the dice and chequers is concealed within the central bar. The tray lid slides to one side to open. This gives both players equal access to the contents. The slide-on lid tray positively locates in the open and closed positions using ball catches. External catches and hinges are avoided to prevent dice catching them in play. When the lid is fi tted it sits nearly fl ush to the tray sides, giving a simple and clean appearance Finish all the frame mitre faces using the table router Check that the pieces are of equal length, with tightly fi tting joints Cut a matching pair of mortises in each mitre face The tray sides, ends and dividers are jointed with size 00 biscuits 12 The Woodworker Winter Attach a pair of spacer blocks to fi t against the tray ends Bore recessed clearance holes so you can fi x the tray to the frame

2 4 5 6 Dry-assemble the frame using band and sash cramps Cut the two tray recesses to fi nish 12mm below the frame surface Mark the positions of the tray ends and dividers on the tray sides Make the tray lid from a resawn plank of 32mm maple Cut the slots for the recessed brass strips on the router Attach the two brass strips to the tray lid with brass screws The Woodworker Winter

I PROJECT Backgammon table 13 14 15 Use the lid and brass strips to work out the ball catch positions Rebate the frame underside to house the two playing boards Cut a taper on each leg

test-fi t the two plywood playing board substrates BACKGAMMON TABLE CUTTING LIST All dimensions are in millimetres Part Qty L W T Frame sides 4 870 90 41 Frame tenons 8 70 70 9 ply Frame

4 29 20 12 Playing board substrates 2 708 318 9 ply Chequer holder body 1 130 68 20 Chequer holder clamp 1 80 38 2 Shaker cup catch 2 130 30 6 Chequers (ebony) 16 49 diameter 19.

5 You will also need a quantity of maple, mahogany and rosewood veneers, four Brusso type BC263 ball catches, some 19 x 2mm brass strip and four leg hinges Leather shaker cups and spare

The triangular board points accommodate six chequers in line, plus a 90mm deep central area. A generous 90mm wide frame surrounds the playing boards. This determines the overall dimensions.

Square frame Start the backgammon table by making the mitre jointed frame.

Then I fi nished the mitre faces using the table router, photo 1. Check that all the frame pieces are of equal length and that the joints are visibly tight, photo 2.

3 I PROJECT Backgammon table Use the lid and brass strips to work out the ball catch positions Rebate the frame underside to house the two playing boards Cut a taper on each leg using a simple jig on the table saw The leg hinges and stays were taken from an old card table Each leg is held in the closed position by a simple friction stop block Cut and test-fi t the two plywood playing board substrates BACKGAMMON TABLE CUTTING LIST All dimensions are in millimetres Part Qty L W T Frame sides Frame tenons ply Frame trims Tray base Tray end dividers Tray lid Tray lid guides Tray sides Tray spacers Legs Leg stops Playing board substrates ply Chequer holder body Chequer holder clamp Shaker cup catch Chequers (ebony) diameter 19.5 Chequers (satinwood) diameter 19.5 You will also need a quantity of maple, mahogany and rosewood veneers, four Brusso type BC263 ball catches, some 19 x 2mm brass strip and four leg hinges Leather shaker cups and spare chequers are housed under the table. Table size The 49mm diameter chequers determine the dimensions of the playing board. The triangular board points accommodate six chequers in line, plus a 90mm deep central area. A generous 90mm wide frame surrounds the playing boards. This determines the overall dimensions. The frame height is dictated by the need for a 30mm gap between board and frame surfaces to keep the dice in the play area when rolled. Square frame Start the backgammon table by making the mitre jointed frame. Dimension the four frame pieces and mitre the ends; I rough- 19 and then mark the extent of the playing areas on them cut the mitres, leaving each slightly over length. Then I fi nished the mitre faces using the table router, photo 1. Check that all the frame pieces are of equal length and that the joints are visibly tight, photo 2. A pair of 9mm thick plywood fl oating tenons provides strength for each of the mitre joints. Mark and cut each mitre with matching pairs of mortises, photo 3. Make the plywood tenons 70mm square. Dry-assemble the frame using band and sash cramps, checking the alignment carefully, photo 4. Grooves and guides Before glue-up, run two stopped grooves for the guides of the tray lid. Make the grooves 90mm long, 4mm wide and 4mm deep. I cut the grooves with a 4mm slotting cutter. Also cut the two tray recesses, 90mm long and 4mm deep, fi nishing 12mm below the frame surface, photo 5. Cut and glue 14 The Woodworker Winter

4 Plan Frame tenon the two lid guides to the frame. Assemble the frame using glue and cramps. Check that the frame is square and leave it to dry. Frame side Making the tray First make the two tray sides. The dimensions are a 52mm x 19mm section, with a 34mm x 11mm rebate. Then make the tray ends and dividers. With the tray sides resting on the frame, mark the positions of the tray ends and dividers, photo 6. The tray ends are positioned to fi t between the tray recesses, less 2mm at each end to allow for frame movement. Cut fi nger recesses in the two dividers. These make it much easier to lift the chequers from the tray. The tray ends and dividers are jointed to the sides using 00 size biscuits. The biscuit slots had to be cut off-centre to avoid cutting through the upper edge. With all the pieces cut, the assembly is glued and cramped, photo 7. Once dry, trim the upper portion of the sides so the tray fi ts between the recesses. Make and attach a pair of spacer blocks to fi t against the tray ends, photo 8. Next, make the tray base and fi x it in position. To screw the tray to the frame I bored recessed and oversized clearance holes at the ends of the tray, photo 9. This allows the tray to fl oat independent of any frame movement. Fix the tray to the frame using screws and penny washers. Tray lid Frame trim Leg Front elevation Making the tray lid I used a plank of 32mm maple for the tray lid, resawn to thickness on the bandsaw, photo 10. Fabricate the lid to be 12mm thick and about 0.5mm shorter than the inner frame distance. Cut a groove in each end of the lid, so it easily slides onto the tray lid guides, using the table router and slot cutter. The lid locates in the open and closed position using four ball catches fi tted into the tray sides. To prevent the ball wearing the underside of the lid, I recessed two lengths of thin brass strip into the lid. I cut the slots (19mm wide, 2mm deep) using a matching cutter in the table router, photo 11. Cut each brass strip to length, and bore and countersink four fi xing holes. Also bore a pair of holes in each strip for the ball to locate in. Attach the strip to the lid using brass screws, photo 12. Use the lid and the brass strips to determine the ideal positions for the ball catches in the tray sides, photo 13. Bore the holes for the ball catches in the tray sides and fully recess the brass body. Leave gluing the ball catches in position, until after the table is given its fi nal fi nish. Leg hinges Spare checker holder Playing board substrate Shaker cup catch Tray base Leg stop The Woodworker Winter View of underside

I PROJECT Backgammon table 20 21 22 Remove them and draw the layout of the backgammon board on them Cut and position each veneer piece, holding it in place with

boards to the frame through over-sized holes Start by turning the ebony and satinwood blanks into rounds 26 27 28 Sand the chequers in a jam chuck and add a small

Rebate the frame underside to house the playing boards at this stage. Cut the rebate 11mm deep and 11mm wide, and stop it where the tray meets the frame.

Shaping the legs Next make the four legs. Cut a 4mm taper along the length of the inner two faces.

The folding leg hinges and stays were taken from an old card table, photo 16. Screw a hinge and stay to each leg.

Fix the hinge and stay to the frame, checking that the leg locks upright and folds parallel to the frame.

This is essential when the table is carried with the legs closed, as otherwise they can be rotated about the hinge and damaged.

Each leg is held in the closed position by means of a friction stop block. Make and screw the blocks into place, photo 17.

The majority of the pieces are very similar and easy to cut. The only special tool recommended is a glue roller.

5 I PROJECT Backgammon table Remove them and draw the layout of the backgammon board on them Cut and position each veneer piece, holding it in place with tape Add a balancing veneer to the underside of the playing board With all the veneers in place, carefully sand the surface smooth Screw the playing boards to the frame through over-sized holes Start by turning the ebony and satinwood blanks into rounds Sand the chequers in a jam chuck and add a small chamfer all round Laminate the hooks for the dice shakers from 2mm thick wood The spare chequers fi t in a tailor-made block beneath the table An important step Rebate the frame underside to house the playing boards at this stage. Cut the rebate 11mm deep and 11mm wide, and stop it where the tray meets the frame. I used a handheld router and bearing-guided rebate cutter, taking progressively deeper cuts, photo 14. Leave the rounded corners. Shaping the legs Next make the four legs. Cut a 4mm taper along the length of the inner two faces. I used the table saw and a simple jig that holds the leg at the required angle, photo 15. Plane each one, then sand or rout a small round along each leg edge. The folding leg hinges and stays were taken from an old card table, photo 16. Screw a hinge and stay to each leg. Make sure the hinge sits fl ush with the leg in the open position. Position each leg on the frame, insetting it by about 18mm from the frame edge. Fix the hinge and stay to the frame, checking that the leg locks upright and folds parallel to the frame. Adding trim and stops A trim is fi tted to the underside of the frame. This is essential when the table is carried with the legs closed, as otherwise they can be rotated about the hinge and damaged. It also hides the leg stop blocks and protects the legs when the table is stored. Screw and glue the trim in position. Each leg is held in the closed position by means of a friction stop block. Make and screw the blocks into place, photo 17. Making the playing boards Although the veneering may look daunting, it is actually quite straightforward. The majority of the pieces are very similar and easy to cut. The only special tool recommended is a glue roller. The playing board substrates are made from 9mm plywood, Cut and fi t them to the frame rebates, photo 18. Make the plywood a few millimetres undersize to allow for movement independent of the frame. Hold the plywood in the frame and mark the extent of the playing areas, photo 19. Remove the plywood and draw the backgammon board layout on the marked playing areas, photo 20. Cutting the veneers Next cut the veneers corresponding to the marked layout. Make up the opposing playing areas and trim their inner edges straight. Then add the centre piece of veneer and tape them all together to make a single large sheet. Cut each piece with a sharp knife and 16 The Woodworker Winter

steel straight edge, As the knife cuts leave a slight V impression, cut from the underside to give tighter joint lines.

Make a balancing veneer sheet for the underside of the plywood, photo 22. I used cherry as I had insuffi cient maple. The pattern is unimportant, but do match the grain orientation.

I made a vacuum bag press see page 47 for details. Otherwise I would have used cauls and plenty of cramps. Mix the glue and spread it evenly on one side of the plywood.

Next, press the work using a vacuum press or cramps and cauls. When the glue has cured, release the cramps, remove the jointing tape and scrape away any squeezed-out glue.

Oversized clearance holes allow for ease of alignment in the frames and also for any frame movement. Turning the chequers The game of backgammon uses 30 chequers.

A diameter of 49mm, allows six chequers to fi t comfortably on the 300mm wide playing boards. Thoroughly sand the rounds while the blanks are mounted on the lathe.

I sanded using the lathe fi tted with a simple softwood jam chuck, photo 26. This holds each chequer fi rmly and without marking.

Final details The pair of leather dice shakers are retained using simple spring clips.

I made a housing block by boring a pair of 50mm diameter holes in a piece of maple, with a small retaining piece screwed across the top.

6 steel straight edge, As the knife cuts leave a slight V impression, cut from the underside to give tighter joint lines. Untidy edges or poorly fi tting pieces are easily corrected using a shooting board. Position each piece as it is cut and hold it in place using tape, photo 21. Make a balancing veneer sheet for the underside of the plywood, photo 22. I used cherry as I had insuffi cient maple. The pattern is unimportant, but do match the grain orientation. Applying the veneers Prepare the veneer press or cramps before you start gluing. This can be a press using mechanical screw, vacuum or hydraulic cramping. I made a vacuum bag press see page 47 for details. Otherwise I would have used cauls and plenty of cramps. Mix the glue and spread it evenly on one side of the plywood. I used powdered resin glue, spread with a rubber roller. Without delay, position the glue side on a veneer sheet and repeat on the other side of the plywood. Next, press the work using a vacuum press or cramps and cauls. When the glue has cured, release the cramps, remove the jointing tape and scrape away any squeezed-out glue. Carefully sand the veneer smooth, photo 23. I used the random orbital sander with its speed reduced, and a fi ne grit paper. Fit the veneered playing boards to the frame, photo 24. Oversized clearance holes allow for ease of alignment in the frames and also for any frame movement. Turning the chequers The game of backgammon uses 30 chequers. I made 32, fi xing a spare of each colour to the table underside. Start by turning the ebony and satinwood blanks into rounds, photo 25. A diameter of 49mm, allows six chequers to fi t comfortably on the 300mm wide playing boards. Thoroughly sand the rounds while the blanks are mounted on the lathe. Next cut each chequer from the rounds. Finished 19.5mm high, 15 chequers fi t each storage tray compartment. Sand the chequer faces to a smooth fi nish. I sanded using the lathe fi tted with a simple softwood jam chuck, photo 26. This holds each chequer fi rmly and without marking. Thanks to Geoff Moss of the Mid Suffolk Coastal Woodturning Club for his guidance here. Soften the chequer edges by sanding a small chamfer round them. Final details The pair of leather dice shakers are retained using simple spring clips. I made the fi xed and hooked ends by laminating together three and two pieces of 2mm thick wood respectively, photo 27. Attach the spare chequers to the table underside, photo 28. I made a housing block by boring a pair of 50mm diameter holes in a piece of maple, with a small retaining piece screwed across the top. Finishing touches I fi nished the table components individually, with two coats of satin Osmo Polyx rapid oil. This was the fi rst time I ve used hardwax oil, and I m very impressed. It s easily applied with a brush and gives a durable fi nish. The wood keeps its natural tone with little darkening. Once dry I also gave the components a light wax, especially the sliding lid grooves. Finally I fi tted the brass strips, glued in the ball catches and assembled the table. Job done! FURTHER INFORMATION Brusso ball catches Classic Hand Toolsl Osmo Polyx hardwax oil Cosmo UK The Woodworker Winter

Cut the template to a fraction over its fi nished size and sand back the edges

$Cut the template to a fraction over its fi nished size and sand back the edges$ I PROJECT Oval coffee table BY DUNCAN ROSE An oval commission Working with wood allows you to turn ideas into reality. I had a customer recently who had hunted for the coffee table she wanted without success,