JOHNSTON DRUM WORKS 20 QUICK-TYMP LUG KIT INSTRUCTIONS

Transcription

1 JOHNSTON DRUM WORKS 20 QUICK-TYMP LUG KIT INSTRUCTIONS THIS KIT WILL HELP YOU BUILD YOUR OWN TYMPANI STYLE GONG BASS DRUM THANK YOU FOR PURCHASING THE JOHNSTON DRUM WORKS QUICK-TYMP LUG KIT. THIS IS A DO-IT-YOURSELF KIT. YOU SUPPLY THE DRUM SHELL, DRUM HEAD, SUPPORT TYPE YOU WANT AND THE QUICK-TYMP KIT WILL PROVIDE THE REST. THE QUICK-TYMP LUG IS A TWO PART LUG WITH A BASE AND A CAP. What you will need for a successful build: One 20 Quick-Tymp Lug Kit 18 dia drum shell w/shell thickness greater than drum head for a tom (NOT a bass drum head) Support system (Floor tom mounts/legs or tom mounts) At least some drum building experience or are handy with power tools. A drill and drill bits, one 1/16 bit or similar for pilot holes, a 7/16 bit optional 3/16 bit (see instructions) and finally a standard Drum Key Read all instructions before you start! What does Do-It-Yourself (DIY) mean with regards to our kit? We assume that you are familiar with drums, drum hardware and the different holes and edges that are found on modern drums and drum sets. Understand the jargon used by drummers and drum builders. Also, the safe use and handling of power tools. If you are a seasoned drum builder this is rudimental. If this is your first attempt at a DIY project we will walk you through the steps required. The instructions are here as a guide, and are written in a somewhat conversational manner. While these instructions may not apply to every build exactly, they are typical of most builds. If you need assistance, we will be more than happy to work with you. If this is your first project, we would suggest you go to Youtube and watch as many drum building videos as you can find. Guerrilla Drum Building is an excellent resource. Knowledge is power and the more you know the better the end result. It is important to remember that any changes you make to your drum shell are likely permanent. The old carpenter s rule of measure twice (or as many times as it takes) and cut once, is true for your drum shell too. All decisions for your build are yours and yours alone. We will include suggestions and preferences, but it is up to you to evaluate all aspects of the build. So let s walk through what you need, starting with the drum shell: You will need an 18 diameter drum shell. You may chose to finish the drum shell before or after drilling, it s really up to the builder to decide, but finishing later is more forgiving. Your shell must be more than.150 (3.8mm) thick. It is possible that a cup washer might work with a thinner shell, but this has not been tested and we don t recommend it at this time; a successful outcome may not be possible. We prefer a thicker shell.210 (5.3mm) or.270 (6.8mm) over a thin shell.150 (3.8mm)to.210. Thicker shells have more contact with the shell/bearing edge and more drilling options as discussed later.

2 We chose a shell depth of 16 for our build. Yours can be almost any depth, but keep in mind the lug attachment and whatever mounts you plan to use when deciding on shell depth. There must be enough depth to accommodate the lugs and any mounts. A bearing edge will be required on one side only; as there is only a batter side. We prefer a 30 deg round over edge; that is what we use on our demonstration drums. You may have different preferences and that s fine. The bearing edge type is a personal preference. Note: this can affect your sound dramatically. Next you will have to mark the drill holes for the lug screws. This kit has (8) eight lugs to be fixed evenly around the shell circumference. We suggest blue painters tape, a pencil, and a measuring square when marking your drill points. Each Lug base will have (2) two screws spaced 1 ½ a part center to center. The top holes should be approx 3 down from the bearing edge. Whether you measure from the apex or bottom of the bearing edge should make little difference as long as you use that reference point consistently for each lug location (ex. If you use the apex for one lug, then use the apex for all lugs). You may want to mark whatever holes you will need for the type of mounts you will use too. Once you have your drill locations marked and have checked the measurements again, you will need to drill the holes for the lugs. Unless you are a seasoned drum builder, you will likely want to start with a pilot hole. Next you have two options: 1) You could drill a single 7/16 hole at each lug screw location all the way through the shell (this may be required if you have a thinner shell) or 2) Use two different drill bits or a single 2 step drill bit. 2 step drill bits are expensive, but if you have one already why not use it. Each lug screw will require a 3/16 dia hole. The Lug base has a boss feature approx 1/8 to 3/16 (3~4mm) tall that locks it into the shell. From the outside of the shell, you drill 1/8 to 3/16 (3~4mm) deep with the 7/16 bit. Then, from the inside of the shell, drill a 3/16 dia hole till it meets the larger outside hole. This approach will also minimize tear-out. We don t recommend the typical multi-step drill bits (the type with multiple diameters on one bit). The included washers will work with either the 3/16 hole or 7/16 hole on the inside of the shell. Don t forget to drill whatever holes you need for the mounts you chose. You are ready to attach the hardware once your shell is drilled, finished, and clean. All hardware for lug attachment is included in your kit. Your lugs may have small shipping screws in the threads, please remove as these are not required. Start with a hex screw, next a lock washer, followed by a large diameter washer. This will go through the shell from the inside to the Lug Base threads outside the shell. A hex wrench has been included in your kit. Be careful not to overtighten the hex screw as damage may occur. Quick-Tymp lugs have been designed and tested to perform without failure during normal playing conditions. Note orientation of the base lug in the picture below. Attach any mounting hardware you have chosen, following the directions for that hardware. Consider how you may store your drum, and the proximity of supports and lugs. You will want to avoid any interference between the two.

3 The next step is to fit the drum head. The head has to be for a tom and NOT a bass drum head. The rest is a matter of personal preference: manufacturer, number of plys, thickness of ply(s), dampening, etc etc. We are using an Evans clear single ply head on our build. Note: this can affect your sound dramatically. The next step is to center the drumhead on the shell. There should be approx 1 of overhang around the outside of the drumshell. Place the included 20 metal hoop over the head. Find the tension rods and add a nylon washer on each rod. Place the rod through the hoop hole and start to thread rod into the Cap lug. Later you can change the drumhead without removing the tension rods completely. Line up the Lug Cap with the Lug Base and start to tighten the tension rod until the parts start to engage. Follow the same procedure for the rest of the lugs. Check that the tension rods are as straight as possible, then start to tighten and tune the drum as you would any other drum. Our lug design is very forgiving and allows for play(movement) of the Lug cap; that s OK. Snug up all tension rods until you get the sound you want with the least movement in the Cap Lug. You may have to adjust the tension rods quite a bit the first time; until you get the "feel" for tuning this type of drum. At this point, your build should be complete and ready to play. Enjoy your new drum!

4 We want to know what you ve built; send us pictures, comments or suggestions. Constructive criticism or accolades are welcome. If there is something we can improve, we will. Find us on Facebook or our company website: Johnstondrumworks.com Care for your lugs: The Quick-Tymp(tm) Lugs included with your kit are a composite material with stainless steel threaded inserts, which are strong and light weight. They have been FEA tested and should perform without failure under all normal playing conditions. We've been using ours for months with no issues. The Chrome plating on our lugs while durable, is not as hard as you will find on traditional metal lugs. Adequate care should be taken to avoid impacts with other surfaces, as damage may occur. You might see some minor imperfections on the parts (a tiny bubble(s) or thinner plating spot), a small amount of imperfections are not unusual and typically not visible except upon close inspection. Any imperfection in the finish will not affect the integrity or functionality of the lug. If you feel that your lugs have more than just a slight imperfection, please contact us. Avoid harsh and abrasive cleaners as they may damage the plating. Use a water moistened clean cloth to remove any dirt, dust, or fingerprints, dry thoroughly. Application of furniture polish/wax with a clean cloth using a gentle buffing motion, avoiding other surfaces, should restore the shine and luster to your lugs. Remove any excess polish from the lugs. Disclaimer: "In no event shall Johnston Drum Works be liable for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental, special consequential damages, to property or life, whatsoever arising out of or connected with the use or misuse of our Quick-Tymp Lugs." We reserve the right to change our policies and/or other information at any time without notice. Thank you, Johnston Drum Works Family

5