DOWNLOAD PDF HOW TO BUILD KITCHEN CABINETS, ROOM DIVIDERS, AND CABINET FURNITURE

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1 Chapter 1 : How To Build Kitchen Cabinets Room Dividers Furniture Donald Brann DIY ebay How to Build Kitchen Cabinets, Room Dividers, and Cabinet Furniture [Donald R. Brann] on blog.quintoapp.com *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Step-by-step directions and assembly illustrations. Directions explain how to build to any width, depth and height. Face frames cover plywood edges. Overlaps on the sides let you fine-tune the cabinet width during installation. Plywood-panel doors and drawer fronts require no routed profiles. The drawer slides we recommend provide lots of mounting flexibility and the chance to undo minor mistakes. A word about materials The cabinet cases shown here were made from birch-veneer, medium-density fiberboard MDF -core plywood for economy. You can instead use hardwood-veneer plywood, solid MDF, plain or melamine-covered particleboard, and solid wood. Double-check the material thickness before calculating cabinet sizes and cutting dadoes and rabbets. Build the face frame from solid wood to match or contrast with the sides. Choose clear, straight-grained wood, and assemble the frame soon after machining to reduce warping. Standards help you design Over the years, cabinetmakers have standardized some cabinet dimensions based on practical considerations, such as the average height of people. At 24" deep, standard base cabinets allow you to bend over and reach in to retrieve anything at the back. Make cabinets as wide as you like, but remember that the wider the doors, the greater the tendency to rack and warp. Standard wall cabinets measure 12" deep. Deeper cabinets hinder access to the countertop below. Wall cabinets commonly mount 18" above the base-cabinet countertop. Subtract that number from the case width. Cut the cabinet bottom to that length. Calculate upper cabinet sizes the same way. Start by ripping two side pieces to the cabinet depth minus the frame thickness ; then cut them to length. Label them left and right with pencil marks on the inside faces. Now subtract the thickness of the back from your fence setting, and cut the bottom panel to width. Then cut the bottom to length. Then notch the bottom front corner of both side pieces for the toe kick [below]. A toe kick allows you to stand closer to a cabinet without bumping the front with your feet. Drill two pocket holes on both ends of each part. For even spacing, make a template from a piece of perforated hardboard as a drilling guide. Click here to watch a free video on how to drill shelf pin holes. Putting it all together A dead-square cabinet requires a dead-flat assembly surface to avoid twisting the glue-up. First lay a side panel on your work surface with its dadoed face up. Apply glue to the dado and insert the bottom. Then glue the dado on the other side panel dado and mount it on the bottom. Then cut two stretchers that length to space the front drawer stretcher that distance from the front top stretcher and pocket-hole-screw the drawer stretcher in place [below]. Measure and center the back drawer stretcher flush with the bottom of the front drawer stretcher. Check for square, as with the upper cabinet [below]. After the glue dries, cut the back to fit. Then glue and nail it in place. Pocket holes simplify face-frame assembly You can join face frame parts using everything from dowels to half-laps to mortise-and-tenon joints, but we like pocket-hole joinery. They eliminate gluing and clamping. Though weaker than some cut joints, pocket-hole joints gain strength after you mount the frame on a case. From that number, subtract twice the stile width for the rail lengths. Position the middle rail so its top edge is flush with the upper face of the middle stretcher. Cut the upper and lower vertical dividers to fit between the middle rail and the top and bottom rails. Using two pocket-hole screws at each joint, assemble the frame [below]. Check that the top stile ends sit flush with the top ends of the case sides. Then fill the holes. Make these doable doors on your tablesaw If you have put off learning to make cabinet doors, these easy-to-cut stub-tenon-and-groove joints will help you overcome your door horror. Divide the job into these six simple steps. Then cut a groove the length of the scrap. To ensure the groove is centered, turn the scrap end for end, and make a second cut [below]. Cut grooves in both stiles and rails. Assemble and clamp the frame and panel, measuring between diagonal corners to check for square. Now mount the doors on your cabinet Thanks to their adjustability, European-style hinges make mounting doors as easy as assembling them. Place a hinge cup in a hole with the straight hinge edge parallel to the stile edge [below], and mark the center of the mounting Page 1

2 screw slots. Then drill screw pilot holes and install the hinge. Repeat for the other hinge. Hold the door in position centered vertically in the opening, and mark each hinge screw mounting location at the center of each oblong hinge screw hole along the frame edge. Drill pilot holes and screw the door to the frame. Refer to the hinge instructions for details on adjusting the door position. How to take the horrors out of drawers Imagine all the potential pitfalls about making drawers. No router bits required. Cut both halves of the joint on your tablesaw. The false drawer front aligns separately from the box. No tricky drawer-glide installations. The hardware we recommend allows many ways to fine-tune the position. Watch a free video of this drawer-making technique. Test the saw settings in scrap; then cut dadoes at both ends of the two sides. It should just touch the teeth of the blade. Next, rabbet both ends of the drawer front and back to create a tenon that fits the side dadoes [below]. Tenons should fit dadoes snugly, with the outside faces of the front and back flush with the ends of the sides. Assemble a frame-and-panel drawer front as you would a small version of a cabinet door. Then mount the glides [below] on the case and on the lower edge of the drawer box side according to the product instructions. The plastic mounting bracket lets you adjust these slides up and down and side-to-side for smooth-opening drawers. Make the front of the drawer box flush with the frame. With the doors installed and aligned with each other, lay a spacer the width of the space between the doors and drawer fronts atop the door [below]. Apply double-faced tape to the inside face of the drawer front, align it with the door, and press it against the drawer box. Then drill pilot holes from the inside front of the drawer box to the drawer front frame, and screw on the front. Make a template the size of the exposed panel on the drawer front, and center two mounting holes to suit your hardware. Place the template on the drawer front panel [below], and drill the hardware mounting holes. Then install the drawer pulls. Use longer screws as needed for your hardware. Put your finished cabinets to work Remove the doors, drawers, and all hardware, and apply a finish. Shim the bottom edges to level the cabinets and make the face frame edges parallel with each other. To hold the upper cabinet in place while you screw it to the wall, make two 18"-tall temporary supports from scrap. Remount the doors and drawers, fill up your new cabinets, and start scouting other locations in your shop, garage, kitchen, or bathroom for new cabinet-making opportunities. Blum 20" three-quarter extension glides no. Rear drawer glide mounting bracket no. Compact 38N Screw-On no. Page 2

3 Chapter 2 : How to Build a Cabinet: 15 Steps (with Pictures) - wikihow 5. Opt for a design and finish that complements the decor of the room. Ensure that the cabinet matches the existing decor, unless you are remodeling the entire room around the new cabinet divider. 11K Shares Regardless of whether you are building a stereo cabinet or dresser, a kitchen cabinet or bathroom vanity, basic cabinet construction is the same. A cabinet or furniture piece consists of the carcass or case with two sides, bottom and top, a back and a front. The front may contain drawers, doors or shelves or combinations of the three. Cabinet building has several variations which may be used in construction. The carcass construction can be separated into three types: Leg-and-rail construction is found on chairs, tables, benches, stools and on some furniture such as chests. Frame-and-panel construction is used to make up the component parts of many types of furniture including the sides, doors and interior web frames with dust panels that are used on many fine, hand-built pieces of furniture. Box or case construction is the basic design of dressers, buffets, desks and chests, as well as kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities. The simplest case construction is a box made of plywood. These can be softwood or hardwood plywood, and they can be painted or stained and varnished. Particle board, finished on one or two sides, is a common material for construction of some cabinetry. A case can also be constructed of solid wood, but these days solid wood is used only on small pieces or for extremely fine furniture. The simplest cabinetry is a box construction such as a kitchen cabinet. Shown is the typical construction dimensions of an applied-facer kitchen cabinet base. Kitchen Cabinet Case Construction Both upper and lower cabinets have the same basic construction details. On the lower cabinet, the first step is to cut the two sides. Incidentally, you can construct a custom kitchen cabinet to fit any space, rather than the small individual sections joined as with purchased cabinetry. Or you can make up smaller units and join them in the same fashion. If a side is to be concealed against a wall, that side can be made of more economical plywood. The exposed side should be cut from a good hardwood- or smooth softwood-surfaced plywood. This is the typical construction of an upper kitchen cabinet with applied facer. The following is the simplest method of constructing, using glue and finish nails that are then set below the surface and the holes filled with wood putty. Locate the position of the bottom on the side pieces and mark the kick board cut-out on each cabinet side. Cut using a saber saw. Install a nailing-strip at the top back. Cut this to fit between the two sides and fasten in place with glue and finish nails. First step is to assemble the basic box, in this case of plywood, with glue and screws or nails. Cut the side facers first. Apply glue to the case edge. Cut and install any dividers of shelves. The simplest method, especially for overlap doors, is to install veneer tape over the plywood edges. These edges must first, however, be sanded smooth. A more traditional method is to install individual facer strips over the front edges of the case. These normally fit flush with the outside edges of the case, but overlap the inside edges. Cut the two side casings first, fitting them flush with the upper end of the sides and the lower edge of the toe space. Fasten these in place with glue and No. Then cut the lower facer to fit between the two side facers, ensuring the correct width to match the top edge of the bottom shelf and the bottom edges of the toe spaces on the sides. To cut to length, cut one end smooth and square, then hold it in place and use a sharp pencil to mark the length. Cut the pieces square using a fine-toothed blade in a radial arm saw. Glue in place and fasten with No. Cut the top facing in the same manner, ripping to width, and then cutting to length. All facers should have their edges jointed smooth. Align the facer flush with the case edge and fasten in place with finish nails. Set the nail heads slightly below the wood surface. Then measure the upper facer to fit precisely between the two side facers. In this case the top facing is fastened between the two side facings with glue and No. If the cabinet has drawers, cut facers and install in the same manner. Cut door and drawer dividers to fit between the drawer bottom facer or facers and the upper or lower facer as needed. These can be anchored in place with toenail-driven, self-starting wood screws in countersunk holes, with glue and finish nails, or with glue blocks from the backside. Use a fine-toothed saw and make a square cut so there is no opening in the joint. Nail the top facer in place, and then Page 3

4 install the bottom facer in the same manner. Install the divider facers in the same manner. Anchor the ends of the facers with No. At this point the cabinet bottom is ready to be installed. If plumbing is to be installed for a sink, and electrical connections for a disposal are needed, measure and cut the openings at this time. Then place the cabinet in position. The cabinet must be level in all directions. Use a four-foot level to determine level and wood shingles as shims to ensure a level unit. Locate the studs in the wall and fasten the cabinet in place with screws through the rear top nailing strip. The cabinet back can also be fastened to the wall with screws into the studs. Build the countertop and install. The facings are cut and installed in the same manner. Upper cabinets are anchored to the wall with a nailer strip at the top and through the back into the studs, as well as with screws through the back into the studs. Set the nails slightly below the surface. Then fill all nail holes flush with wood putty. Vertical facers are often anchored with counterbored screws from the inside edges. A more intricate form of construction involves creating a facing frame of mortise and tenons joints. The front facing frame is then anchored to the case sides, top and bottom with glue blocks and countersunk wood screws from the inside or with glue and biscuit joints. This totally eliminates the nail holes that must be filled and is the best method for fine furniture cases. Fine furniture often consists of a case with an assembled facer frame fastened over the front edge of the case. Mitered corners add to the fine construction. Another form of construction consists of legs-and-rails with panels. The legs-and-rails are assembled with mortise-and-tenon or dowel joints. The panels are held in rabbets. The frame consists of rails and stiles fastened together with mortise and tenons or dowels. The corner posts or stiles may be rabbeted or dadoed to accept the panels, or the panels may be held in place with dowels or biscuits. This is a very popular method of constructing small chests and tables, as well as larger pieces of fine furniture. The panel may be constructed of thinner, or thicker, stock that is shaped at the edges. The inside framing on built-ins and simple furniture can consist of shelving standards with adjustable wooden shelves, or wooden shelf strips can be used to support permanently located shelves. Drawers can use metal slide systems. On fine cabinetry and furniture, however, the inside construction is as important as the outside because the inside framing not only provides for drawers and shelves, but also provides strength. Drawers are often supported by inside wooden partitions called web frames. Solid stock or plywood may be used, but they add a great deal of weight. Open frames are commonly used. If the frames are fitted with thin wood panels they are called dust panels. Dust-panels and web-frames are marks of quality furniture. They are always used on desks or bureaus with locked drawers; otherwise you could remove an upper drawer and get into the contents of the drawer below it. Many fine furniture constructions use web frames with dust panels between the drawers. These frames are normally assembled with mortise-and-tenon joints, and with dadoes for the thin wooden dust panels. The web frames may be held in place with glue and nails or screws. More often, the frames are fitted into rabbets or dadoes in the sides of the case and glue blocks used for support under the frame pieces at the back. Although the dadoes in the sides of the case could be the full thickness of the frame pieces, it is best to rabbet the frame edges and cut a narrower dado joint to provide more gluing surface and a stronger joint. A dovetail joint is the strongest for this type of unit; however, the frames must slide in from the front. When a frame-and-panel construction is used for the sides of the case as well, the web frame may be fitted with stub mortise-and-tenons. If the front edge of the frame is also to act as a drawer-front facing, it is covered with hardwood to match the exterior of the project. Otherwise the frame is concealed behind the drawer fronts. If the frames are long, as on buffets, they should have a middle supporting rail or even two supporting rails if necessary. Doors and Drawers Doors and drawers can be overlap, lip or flush. Overlap doors and drawers have the entire front thickness exposed. Chapter 3 : 25 Room Dividers with Shelves Improving Open Interior Design and Maximizing Small Spaces Room dividers can be created with shelving units and tall cabinets. These modern furniture items provide additional storage, improve interior design, add interest to room decorating and maximize small spaces in elegant and functional style. Page 4

5 Chapter 4 : How to Design a Built-In Cabinet Room Divider Home Guides SF Gate How To Build Kitchen Cabinets Room Dividers Furniture Donald Brann DIY See more like this Vintage 's Mid Century Room Divider Blonde Cabinet Atomic Age $ Chapter 5 : Divider Cabinet Modern - blog.quintoapp.com How to build kitchen cabinets, room dividers, and cabinet furniture (Book). Chapter 6 : Amazing Open Kitchen with cabinets as space divider - IKEA Hackers Organizing cabinet space may help you find things quicker and make them more accessible. One effective way to organize your cabinets is to install a vertical divider to keep items separated. Chapter 7 : How to Add a Vertical Divider in a Cabinet Home Guides SF Gate I had most of the cabinets hung on the opposite side of the laundry room. The last 2 sections of lower cabinets I had installed by the dryer. With a new counter top I have a great folding table and all the cleaning products are stored in those cabinets. Chapter 8 : About Your Privacy on this Site Note: Citations are based on reference standards. However, formatting rules can vary widely between applications and fields of interest or study. The specific requirements or preferences of your reviewing publisher, classroom teacher, institution or organization should be applied. Chapter 9 : Cabinet Building Basics for DIY'ers - Extreme How To This kitchen cabinet storage project provides more space for plates and bowls in crowded kitchen cabinets. Most cabinets come with only one or two shelves, leaving a lot of wasted space. So we added one (and sometimes two) shelves to most of our cabinets. Page 5