Photographing your dog running towards you.

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1 Photographing your dog running towards you. There is a reason that I didn t start off with action. You need a strong foundation in the other aspects of photography. The guidelines here are based on the easiest way to get success. Preparing your camera for action shooting I can t know everyone s camera. So please read your manual. Continuous Focus: Set your camera on action this is the mode that will allow your camera to continually focus as your subject moves. Canon: AI Servo. Nikon: AFC High Speed Drive: Set your camera to shoot on the continuous high speed drive mode so you can hold the shutter down and it will rapid fire shots. Focus point: Set your focus point to focus on just one square and put that square in the center. The center is always the most accurate. Some more advanced cameras have the abililty to move that focus point and if you feel comfortable with your skills do so. Biggest thing: DO NOT let the camera decide what to focus on! Back Button Focus: I love back button focus. I have this permanently set on my camera. It allows you to program one of the buttons on the back of the camera for focus and leaves the shutter for taking the picture. So my thumb sets the focus and my index finger presses the shutter. It becomes intuitive very quickly. No pressing the shutter half way down to focus. Available on most DSLRs. Here is more information: Lens: I think anyone that does this enough learns that longer focal lengths work better for dogs running towards you, as it creates a nice background blur and you get more shots in burst mode at a distance than up close. Don t ask me the science behind it. I find anywhere between is good. If you don t have a longer lens work with what you have. I am basing this off of a full frame camera, if you have a cropped sensor you will probably do well with less mm. The camera settings I always set my camera in manual when I can plan my shoot. Shutter speed: 1600 for fast dogs, for slow runners, if they are just casually trotting towards you. Hold your camera still and steady as you shoot. Some think that with the higher shutter speeds it doesn t matter, but it really does--even with the higher shutter speeds I see a difference when I m not calm and careful. Aperture: Depending on the lens, f4 is a great place to start. I like 2.8 because I love the beautiful background blur that puts the focus on the dog, but your keeper rate will be lower the more shallow your depth of field. Going a lot higher than f4 and you have to really pump up the iso unless in full sun. See November s lesson for a great visual guide to how aperture and focal length can affect an image. ISO: Set this after the other 2 parameters. Please don t try to underexpose because you think the iso is too high. You will get a cleaner image if your exposure is correct at a higher ISO, than if you underexpose then have to lighten it in the computer. AS LONG AS YOUR HIGHLIGHTS ARE NOT BLOWN OUT. The location Try for an open area or a long path with a lot of distance behind your subject and in front. Overcast or sun is good. Avoid dappled light and backlighting. I love overcast light, especially for beginners. Sun, something I avoid mid day with a passion, will provide a lot of light so you may have better success for action. Dappled light is really hard because if your dog is moving in and out of sun and shade it can mess with the camera s focusing as well as your exposure. Backlighting is beautiful, but your camera s focusing intelligence naturally looks for contrast, and that backlight rim hitting the dog s ear or tail, paired with the usually low contrast shadow of the face will result in less in-focus shots. Testing your location: You ve identified a location that works, Now position your dog sitting about mid-way in the running sequence. I generally get as low as possible, sitting or laying on the ground people like to see sky and trees as backgrounds in their photos; dirt and grass aren t as appealing. Take a picture. Check your composition and histogram and make adjustments. Step and repeat until you are satisfied. Best methods to get your dog running in the right spot: I have a friend I do this with. So much easier with (good) help. If your dog has a good stay you can do it without help. If your dog likes to fetch it s a good way to have your dog run back towards you with the ball. My dog loves the recall game I play with my friend where I call her and take pictures as she runs towards me to get a treat. Then my friend calls her to him and she gets a treat. And we repeat many times. She loves it, my friend not so much.

2 Time to shoot! Your camera settings are good. So let s begin! Make sure that the center square is at all times over the face/eyes. You may have to move your camera up and down a little to keep it there as your dog comes closer. You may loose focus for any number of reasons, but just refocus. Aways better to have extra area in your frame so you can crop. I know purists feel the need to compose perfectly in the framebut if you are starting out and using center point focus I would allow extra space for cropping. I would repeat this run quite a few times. Reviewing your photos With what I am telling you, and the experience I have, my keeper rate is VERY low. I m saying this so you don t get discouraged. Just take a lot of photos. You may not get it figured out the first few times. You may still have a lot of throw away images. The goal is to get 1 image. I know, crazy. But if I get one decent image from an outing I feel really successful. Doodles are especially hard if they have long hair as the eyes can cover the face in a run so the camera looses focus. Is that blur do to a slow shutter speed or missed focus? The other important thing is to look at the data when reviewing your files. You will quickly learn how fast your shutter speed needs to be. I think this was the biggest learning tool for me. You need to be able to see if it s out of focus because of missed focus, or out of focus because the shutter speed is too slow. Here is how to see the difference: This is a crop of an image with a shutter speed of 1/800. That is way too slow for how fast she was moving. You can see it in her ear on the left. Also, if you look at the catch light in her eye you can see the motion blur. I don t mind if the ear shows a little motion, but the eye should be sharp If you miss focus, you will generally find something in focus in the shot. In this case the auto focus landed on her collar and not her eyes.

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